Budget eBay Porsche 3.2 Carrera Project Car! #31 - Was it the coil?? Are we good? Wait for it...

[@HeidiandFranny]

Hi Everyone, Will a coil swap be the hot ticket? It sure is promising but wait until the end... Let me know your thoughts!

[@efradiesel]

HI Franny, congrats for your channel. You really explain what you do clear and loud, step by step. It's really helpful to learn every day a little bit more about these old heroes. I had the same exact issue with the idle in a my old Alfa Romeo 164, and it turned out to be the air flow meter (Old Bosch motronic, really close as yours). The flap that moves in and out (the one you touch in the video to check the potentiometer values) it's spring loaded. With the time, the spring gets weaker and weaker, and at some point it cannot hold the flap steady, producing the flap to be bouncing in and out. That effect is amplified with the fact that when it starts bouncing in and out, it messes up more the idle, and the feedback makes the flap bounce even more. In my case, I solved it giving a little bit of more tension to the Flap's spring (opening the air flow meter was a little bit messy, since I had to break the plastic cover the most carefully I could). My flow meter had a round spring calibrated with a teethed wheel. I gave it 2-3 teeth more of tension, and the problem got solved at that right moment. It's a quite common problem with old Motronics (here in Europe, present in almost every single car of the late 80's to early 90's). Good luck! Kind regards from Barcelona, Spain.

[@RidleyRobin]

Coil resistance changes with temperature, my car would run fine until the coil got hot. Then it would die until the coil cooled down again. Bad coil does not explain ruf idle.

[@rick-hm3ji]

To verify, put the black coil back in the car and see if the stumble reappears.

[@janus3759]

Love your videos! Maybe check that 12v and ground to the coil is ok?

[@jimherbert007]

I had a 911 and it turned out to be a valve lifter on cyl 3

[@robertyoung4389]

Franny, May I suggest using a voltage drop test during your diagnosis; this will help find electrical problems dynamically. Ohms and static voltage test will fail to show real problems a lot of times and give you a false postive. Also I would suggest using a lab scope; the value as a diagnostic tool cannot be overstated. It doesn't have to be an expensive one. Asw wave has a small two channel one very in expensive. One last suggestion either Make or bye a smoke machine, that is the very best way to find and or check for vacuum leaks. You are doing a great service please keep up the good work Thank you for allowing me to connect R.G.Young,Jr.

[@LaytonKnightt]

I don’t know the first thing about cars, but I still enjoy this channel.

[@oscillon]

Hey Franny. I had a 1986 BMW 635 and could never get it to run correctly in the first few months that I owned it. Took it to my local "expert" who kept it for an inordinate amount of time trying to diagnose the problem. They went through "everything" and returned it to me running just as bad, along with an enormous bill for their time. I called them as asked... "hey - did you check the coil"... I got a "no, those never fail"... Well, $30 and 10 minutes later... yup, running perfectly.

[@Alex-lx2pg]

Hi Franny....I had this EXACT problem on a 1987 Carrera. There is an idle adjustment screw on the base of the throttle body. Adjust this in a bit and it will cure the idle "hunting". This is a rough adjustment to where the idle control valve can take over. If this is too far out, the control valve will try to compensate but is unable to do it. I've been a subscriber to your channel for awhile, but I don't comment very much. I do want to say that I truly enjoy your channel and videos! As a DIYer myself, I have learned a lot from you! Thanks so much always for the very clear, detailed, step by step descriptions on what you do, and why you do them. I am an avid Porsche AND Ferrari enthusiast, so your cars are right up my alley! I was the guy who also had a 1985 308GTSi Euro and asked you about the intermittent running issue on your live chat last year. I ended up tracing the problem down to one of the "hens teeth" (Digiplex boxes). Luckily, I was able to find one! Keep up the fantastic videos. Thanks so much. I am looking forward to your upcoming ones on the 308 as well!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much! So glad you were able to find a replacement Digiplex. And a Euro no less... I hope you didn't have to give up a kidney for it! Yup! Will be getting to the 308 before too long. Got to put the 3.2 to bed first but we are almost there!

[@huissens]

In 1983 I had my '69 Beetle's engine rebuilt. Ran great for nearly 800 miles. On a trip in northern Michigan, it started running rough and then conked out (fortunately 100 ft from an old school service station). The boys replaced my coil with a "used" unit from a mid 1950s John Deere tractor found out back. Car ran great from then on!

[@fredstocking3812]

Coil problems were more common when I was younger but in the last 30 years they all but disappeared. Sadly to be replaced by coil pack problems.

[@petermabbort456]

Fanny... your humility and straightforwardness is so refreshing. It really is. This is the no-ego channel. You make a lot less mistakes than I do my dear. Good on you for pointing these things out so we can all learn.

[@pm1104]

No idea but your enthusiasm is contagious!

[@arthurquinlan3862]

I've been working on my 3.2 as well. I bought it to install in a project car, so I had never had it running (properly). It had a hunting idle just like yours - I checked/replaced EVERYTHING! I had tested the air/fuel ratio with a meter and no matter what I did it was always running way too lean. Finally, I tried adjusting the idle air mixture (the 8mm hex screw on the front of the throttle body) - as soon as I turned it in (clockwise) a couple of turns, my idle smoothed right out. It turned out that I had been getting too much air into the mixture after the air/fuel meter. Once I closed down the idle air control, it richened the mixture to where it should be, and my engine runs like it should

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much for this!

[@roscoejones4515]

Since the problem is intermittent, I'm guessing electrical? We're all learning with you, thanks for the great vids!

[@Johnathan_Waters]

The only thing I noticed that looks suspect to me, was the OHMS testing of the air flow meter. The first test was definitely not a smooth sweep. This symptom is typical of worn resistive carbon tracks on it's internal potentiometer. I also don't think the "volts" test is the most telling one on that part. Go with ohms for that one. If the afm is adjustable, then you would use the volts reading for that. At least on Mercedes-Benz.

[@geerstyresoil3136]

I concur, that sweep was not "smooth" to me, rather fuzzy.

[@norberthofer5830]

It’s very rare for a coil to go bad. It would be interesting, now that the engine seems to run properly, to put the original coil back in and then see how the engine runs? I thought it could have been the fuel injectors again or the Bosch platinum plugs being faulty. Good job.

[@normandong4479]

This repair video of a Porsche 3.2 Carrera is illustrative of an important point. Porsche makes an amazing automobile, but it is very expensive and finely tuned to the degree that the smallest deviation in its settings & electronics can throw off its performance. It is nice to see qualified and smart people work on these cars, but we are reminded of how patient & well off we have to be to own one.

[@charley22123]

And do not beat yourself up ,your doing a fab job ,more than most peeps could manage .

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks!

[@johnnyturbo8460]

Check the mass air flow sensor (box) They surge like that when going out. Also check the brake booster hose. They can Crack, leaving a vacuum leak. When thinking its an engine problem many don't check the other systems that also use vacuum.

[@Stukreit]

Mid-80's bmw motronic 1.1 experience here: The rubber bellows between the air flow meter (It is not a MAF) and the intake manifold can get age cracks which messes up the air metering its supposed to do, so take it off, shine a bright flashlight inside, tug gently in all directions. I once fixed a lumpy idle for a friend by wrapping his with duct tape, just to show off. Going deeper, there can be a roughness just off idle that you can fix. Open the AFM. Notice the circuit board, resistance track, and the contact wiper arm that makes the magic happen. The wiper track is most worn at the low end, and can be near gone. With a dremel you can ovalize the mounting holes on the circuit board and shift it so that the contact rides on fresh material. In bmwland, we like to upgrade to Motronic 1.2 (1989+) which uses a MAF, recovering all the HP lost due to sucking the air door open.

[@toddjones9715]

Excellent job troubleshooting the issues and walking us through your steps. Really enjoy your videos thank you for sharing your knowledge. I really love the older 911s they are one of my favorite cars.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much! They are really fun cars :)

[@GM-xy5tw]

Awesome cliffhanger Franny! Can’t wait for the next one. You’re the best!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much!

[@pyoung168]

Sounds like the you may still have some troubleshooting ahead of you. Keep at it and I’m sure you’ll get it resolved. Thanks for sharing!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks, yup, not quite out of the woods yet, but we'll get there.

[@vincenttarling5902]

Hi Franny I have often found that a coil that is going bad gets worse as it gets hot, the test you carried out on the coil was when the coil was cold and probably showing it at its best, if tested when its hot you may have had a different reading.

[@johnsaunders4227]

I was about to say AWESOME and Congrats until that last scene...

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks John, Yeah... A bit disappointing. Ww get it sorted in the end... I'm starting to understand that even this first gen of Motronic doe do a bit of learning. ...and it needs the inputs to all be within a certain range in order to correct. It gives the funny experience of the engine not running correctly and then you change out a single part and it is all better, and then change a completely different part and it gets upset again. Parts can work just fine in certain combinations and not it others. It can be a real head scratcher!

[@flymdjets]

The idle surge has more than a few causes-check the idle microswitch first. You verified you have a good ICV and good CHT sensor so it's an easy first check. Waiting for the next installment!

[@thhall459]

You are so smart! And it was so fun watching your face light up when you realized that you fixed it! I love your channel and your production quality! I’ve been a car guy for 50 years and my knowledge has quadrupled since I started watching you on this channel! You rock girl! ********** Bummer!!! I just watched all the way to the end🙁. But I have complete confidence in you. You’ll figure it out.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Wow! Thanks so much! We'll get it :)

[@janhanson5806]

Women mechanics Rock!!

[@slotty008]

Last summer, I had exactly the same problem with my 3.2 as you had at the end of the video. It was just a bad connection between the DME module and the DME relay. I pushed the relay a little bit further in and the problem was solved. Never had any issues since.

[@selltheplanetearth]

I don't know what it is but watching your videos are just so relaxing. Thanks and have a great weekend!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Awww, Thanks so much! You too :)

[@v1rotait23]

Relaxing videos: You bet! It's due to Franny's wonderfully smooth and clear speaking style, and simple but logical explanation of things technical. Heidi's great camera and sound work is not notch, and by using great cameras and a proper decent lapel microphone, especially! 2 very clever girls! Love this channel. I only wish I had an air cooled 911 and a 308.... sigh.

[@dougsweldingfabrication953]

Thank you for the great videos. I can appreciate that you're very methodical, and that you explain things so clearly. That's a super clean Carrera !!!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much!

[@jamcdona]

I just had to let you know that I used your video and tested out my coils on the Alfa, and found that I had the wrong coil! It wasn't even for electronic ignition. Napa autoparts guy failed me and gave me a 3ohm primary coil; my system calls for a .5-.7 ohm coil. I looked up the specs for my Alfa, found that the parts catalogs wanted over $100 for the proper coil and were all out, so I bought a performance coil, MSD Blaster 2 for $45 with the OEM specs. My ignition problems totally went away, and she starts right away every time, and doesn't miss at higher RPMs anymore! All because I watched you measure the primary and secondary.. BTW, the original coil from 1986 had great primary resistance, but the secondary was in the high megs, not Kohms, so that's why I replaced it with the Napa unit.

[@axispowerdiesel]

I had a W140 in a few months ago with an intermittent misfire even after all ignition and fuel components had been previously replaced. What I ended up finding was the bosch ev1 fuel injector connector females had been slightly deformed by test light/multi meter probing. Always worth checking to make sure the connector terminals are not expanded

[@HeidiandFranny]

Will do. Thanks for that!

[@HomeBuiltByJeff]

I really thought you had it this time! The journey continues.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks Jeff, Yup. It has been difficult but I think I have it finally :)

[@webgateltduk]

Another great diagnostic video! You'll be so pleased when you finally deduce the fault. Keep going

[@HeidiandFranny]

Will do! Thanks!

[@geedee5268]

GREAT vid as ever Franny. In one way I was sorry to see you return from your drive with the engine pulsing, although it will make for another great learning experience for me when you sort it out..😁 When you do sort it all out, I would be tempted to put the old coil back in just to prove positive it did cause issues. My gut feeling is that the old coil may be serviceable. I had an old Austin Mini that would cut out when taking right hand bends, eventually found the problem to be the coil. As standard the coil is mounted horizontally on the front of the (transverse) engine facing the grill on the front of the car. Given the location there was a mix of road grime and oil from a weeping valve cover gasket, which hid the fact that the coil was weeping oil... The oil being used as an insulator and to some degree coolant within the coil ? Seems perhaps that on right hand bends the low oil level allowed the coil HV to short out within the coil canister thus cutting the sparks to the dizzy when the g forces of cornering caused the remaining oil within the coil to shift to the opposite end of the coil canister..

[@mike_oe]

You cannot conclude that the silver can ignition coil is better than the black just because it has lower ohmic resistance. That may simply it has a better, more conductive secondary winding wire, which is actually good.

[@toddstiers3814]

Nice clean of the grounds at the engine, but check the body side of that cable too! New paint in the engine bay or any loseness...meter it too!

[@MarcFuller]

I don't know why, but I love this channel! Thanks!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Yea! Thanks!

[@martinfilardi2614]

Great video Franny. What a cliffhanger! Way to keep your devoted fans like me hooked. My money was on the coil. Now I think all the giggling got something else loose or an old hose cracked somewhere causing the hunting idle. TBC, cannot wait, what drama. Ha, too funny. Love it.

[@pierrickvincent2142]

One quick suggestion. I think that your air box and filter should be on at all time while you are doing your tests. The engine was designed to run with this specific box and filter so its fine to check all sorts of eletronic values but do not forget the basics. Good luck!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks. I've been thinking the same thing. It is bit of a pain and next I was going to go for the vacuum test and it is behind that box... That is why I left it off...

[@freerkderuiter8822]

Excellent job :) That was one sweet smooth running 3.2. But still, it has a mind of its own. Looking forward to the next installment :)

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks!

[@andrewbuckley5048]

Interesting, so does she run a sweet idle once cold again-1st check. Then does erratic running return when fully warmed up-2nd check. I was a race mechanic in the UK for Mazda Mk1/Mk3 & Lotus. There is the possibility of a 'thermal' issue on a sensor going bad/out of range due to heat expansion. Also we did get issues with internal breaks on wires just before the crimped terminal in plugs ie, sensors/injectors & stick coils. The wiring looms were not always too generous causing tightness when plugged in & could cause work hardening to the wires crimp point. This eventually causing internal breakage. You have the luxury of time as well as great determination to hunt down & cure this issue, where we was under severe time constraints to sort the issue out before the next qualifying or race....😳 saying that, I am hooked on seeing the future episodes & ultimate rectification of this fault😉👍👌a great channel with a great no nonsense explanation of what you are doing....crack on chuck😉

[@timashwood9973]

Phew! I can relax now, knowing you are simply human, and not that I would worship you as the Porsche goddess you are!

[@Marti77e]

The old ignition coil can be checked with a oscillator its usually show more problem when its gets warm. Keep up the good work.

[@marcusdali3997]

If it is the air mass box take the black cover off and observe if you see and wear in the idle track( that is the most common) Bend the arm just a tad so that it runs on a new track. I have worked on hundreds of these and fixed thousands of these types of airboxes this way. I like your style.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks!

[@eugenebaroni1298]

Another great video. Thought you had it till the last minute. Your the best!!!! I know you will get it. Job well done 👍

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much!

[@boastyy]

Hi Franny , have you checked the resistance of the ignition cables, you might have a dodgy cable which is breaking down when the engine is warmer. There might be a fault with the wire or the cap which only shows itself when the wire warms up.

[@MJ-fh8fw]

I didn't see the before videos....engine bay...is soo clean....on an air-cooled

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks! That was a few videos back... Clutch install I think...

[@perunut4656]

Clear logical steps...well done! That car is super clean inside ....looks like new.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks! 👍

[@cw5865]

Tell ya what, although I have a 964, I get so much from the work on the 87 she does. Her approach answers questions as I think them up....

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much!

[@michaelchitwood5566]

Very good series of videos. Thank you.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much!

[@johnspecht72]

I thoroughly enjoy this channel and respect both Heidi and Franny immensely! Extra love to both Ozzie and Zeke as well!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Aw, thanks!

[@cicli]

Great to see the baby is running smoothly again. I recommend you taking on the car the old black coil (made in Germany) as spare. The current silver ones made in Brazil are unfortunately crap... just cannot believe how Bosch/Porsche are selling those as replacement.

[@bry1973]

The surging at the end is typical of the idle control valve, from what I’ve seen

[@prakashnarismulu3332]

Ok not sure I understand the science behind this but it sure is relaxing to watch . Thanks 🙏 Franny

[@v1rotait23]

No science, but good German engineering when all the parts do what they're supposed to do, and in the correct order, and at the right time, you get a delightful 6 cylinder engine, making a symphony of automotive sound!! :)

[@jamesanderson83]

Projects like that keep the gray matter juices flowing 👍!

[@ne2i]

Thoughts on digital multimeters, For tests of reostats I think using a analog meter would be better to see a smooth curve of resistance. Digital meters tend to jump around and the resolution is not as good.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Totally agree! I used to have a nice one... But, even better... a scope. Stand by one on that ;)

[@v1rotait23]

Yeah, that's where analogue meters reign supreme. You can see a linear or logarithmic movement whether going +ve or -ve for the shift in position of the Pot. Used to have a beaut Avo meter, don't know where it disappeared to...

[@janhanson5806]

Great information Franny. My gut reaction is that the airbox was the culprit with the coil as a secondary contributing factor. As always, thank you!

[@superchargedv8993]

Just fascinating - can’t wait for the next one Frannie. Anticipating the final fix, wow!

[@HeidiandFranny]

We'll get it!

[@superchargedv8993]

@@HeidiandFranny go get it H&F!

[@bigmacdaddy1234]

It's Friday night and I am sitting here with a glass of wine watching my favorite channel. Just want to let you know that I appreciate all the work that goes into making a video like this, I know it's time consuming and not easy. Props to the editor! You definitely made some progress today...you are near the finish line. Bravo!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thank you so much!

[@charley22123]

Hi Ladies nice to see you back .... keep them coming ,keeps my brain going .

[@fivedotsdave9723]

The throttle position sensor will sometimes cause that "hunting" as we call it in N Ireland.....

[@davidraezer5937]

At this point since your problem is still intermittent I would be performing all electrical tests at the DME connector so you are effectively testing the harness at the same time.

[@pfan12000]

great video again! To easily prove that it is the coil just put the suspected black coil back and see if the poor running returns.

[@robertmeiser8429]

I did notice that the resistance reading was fluctuating out of circuit resistance readings should not fluctuate. Coils can be damaged by spark plugs aging which require more and more voltage to operate that's why spark plugs should be changed regularly.....the electrode wears out. Your great Thanks. Bob

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks for that Bob!

[@Ordrock7]

Franny, on the first video that I watched, I saw you remove that check ball from the fuel rail. What I saw when you relieved the pressure and you reinstalling the check ball was something other than gas in the cup of gasoline. It looks to me that the fuel tank has some crap in the tank and the fuel filter might be on the bypass. I'd try a new fuel filter and maybe clean the fuel system and watch out for the mess getting into your injectors. I don't think i heard you say anything about the fuel filters but you might want to run a few gallons through the filter before connecting the fuel rails back on the injectors. Oh yeah, check the inside of the cap and rotor. Scott from Southern Oregon

[@nitesfer]

wow i thought you had it fixed for a second there ...sorry bout that ..something changes at normal operating temp creating the issue ... pulsating

[@thomasmadden293]

Franny, certainly nothing to apologize for. Great and informative content as always. I'm sure we've (those who chose to work on their engines) all been there and can empathize. Looking forward to next episode and getting back on the road in time for warm spring days of tp down driving. All the best.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much!

[@PhilUKNet]

It was all looking so good ... until right at the end! What next?! I met so many wonderful Americans while working and vacationing in the US many years ago - Colorado included. You remind me of them, Franny. Thoroughly decent and thoroughly humble, while at the same time showing extraordinary diagnostic skills. Really enjoying this channel.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much!

[@masterchief586]

I have always replaced the coil first

[@jakek8576]

Again!! im blown away by your knowledge on these cars , I really enjoy watching your Chanel

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much!

[@jeanbehr4832]

I was so looking forward to the solution and now this! I feel for you. The group has some good suggestions. I don't have anything better for you. Can't wait for you to solve this. Good luck and we are all rooting for you.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much!

[@DustyPearl-13]

Evening Franny! You are doing such a great job and I hope, next time, the Carrera will be fixed for good! Good luck & have safe travels!

[@wernerdanler2742]

I had no idea disconnecting a plug lead could mess up the coil. We used to check to see which cylinder was not firing by removing the leads to find which didn't change the running of the engine. Had a friend just had his 80s mercedes coup serviced back in the 90s or so. New plugs and all. Running like crap. The plugs go down through the valve cover on those. Not a single plug wire was snapped down on the plugs. I'm surprised his coil didn't go out completely. It ran nice and smooth after I snapped them all on properly.

[@wimfleuren3887]

Hello Franny, good job let me tel you a trick that I learned to check an airflow meter. The best way is to use an oscilloscope and set a frequencies over the pins to test put about 200hZ and then move the vane, you can see directly al flash of the image on the scope if the flowmeter is no good. It is still a suspect I believe becourse when the engine was all warm it usually idels a bit lower in rpm's and so has lower airflow. Keep up the nice work you do, very nice and informative.

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks for that! I just got an oscilloscope :)

[@monkeybarmonkeyman]

Solving problems such as these are best done one item at a time. Take your best shot, modify or replace one component at a time. I do not know why, but in the back of my mind, I keep hearing "computer", that is the main controlling system(s). Mechanically, the engine sounds to be in near perfect shape. All the best, we all know you will eventually find the issue.

[@jamestharp7880]

Well my dear Watson, sounds like we’re at the beginning of another great adventure. This is a wonderful “who done it”, or should I say “what done it”? Keep up the great work, your videos are fabulous!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much! We'll get it!

[@trevorfroggatt9559]

I am watching you struggle from the UK where its -7degrees C. I once had a similar problem on a motor bike. An auto electrician who helped said "if it will rev its not electrics its fuelling" Have you had the tank out and made sure there are no rust particles or fine dust getting through. Good luck I look forward to the next instalment.

[@Cruiseangel72]

Im excited. Its getting better. !

[@ianfarrer4616]

Hi Franny, Great Video. I can share some coil knowledge. The coil will only generate enough secondary voltage to jump the spark gap, under idling conditions the throttle body is almost close and therefore the compression is low, under these conditions the voltage generated is lower. If the coil is failing internally most likely under loads, full cylinder filling, where volatge is much higher to jump the gap. Your idle 'hunting' issue is more likely something else. I would think if worth checking the Power Supplies are stable, at the DME ECU, do you have an oscilloscope?. I think your car has a O2 sensor, you could bypass the O2, there is a jumper on the leads, likes our Euro cars. good luck, following this one!!

[@Guleto]

I LOVE you Heidi and Franny. You are making things easy, smooth and beautiful to watch. I am from Paris and if some day you come to France PLEASE let us know you would be welcome home, we would ride in our 911 together and to much thing to share with you girls ! MERCI !

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks you so much!! We may take you up on that :)

[@t.arnold5823]

Franny, you have such an EASY GOING demeanor. By now I would have been throwing things and pulling my hair out...what's left of it that is!!

[@HeidiandFranny]

LOL!

[@n.shiina8798]

it's possible the old ign coil is on its last legs. the secondary lamination could be breaking down and starts to arcing internally besides of some shorted windings. this type of failure can't be detected by measuring the DCR value because of the failed part is not shorted

[@bertrandliang9490]

Wonderful localization again. Your methodical evaluation and knowledge is killer for problem solving. As a newbie, my humble experience has been the surging could be the idle control valve, but usually that can cause some level of hard starting as well, which you don't have. I'm not sure the later Carrera's had WUR like the older 911S, but that could cause the surging as well. Thanks for the documentation - it really does help all of us trying to get our vintage 911's in shape. Stay warm in NorCO!

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks so much! Yup, no WUR like the K-Jetronic systems. We'll get it sorted in the next video... Pretty sure ;) lol!

[@ilukatube1972]

great video....if they weren't so expensive in Australia I'd buy one with confidence and follow your lead ..thankyou for the great content.

[@androo4519]

So close and it was sounding fantastic! Oh well, if anyone can fix it I'm sure you can. The car just wanted you to get a couple of extra videos out of it.

[@ebutuoyebutouy]

Congratulations! For the sake of science reinstall the old coil. A turn to turn short results in a 100% inoperative coil. Now believe there was a poor connection from the MAS or one of the grounds. Replacing the DME was a good proactive measure. Looking forward to your next episode. Stay safe.

[@joanneshellings5457]

Thank you for sharing this with us. Great video and very curious what still is failing ... like it! 😀👍

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks! We'll get it :)

[@anthonydiubaldi6475]

Hi Franny. Great video! The resistance measurement only checks the resistance of the primary and secondary coils. It does not check the electromagnetic performance of the coil- the ability to generate the high voltage on the secondary side of the coil - do to rising and falling electromagnetic fields within the coil. Physical damage to the core etc.

[@HeidiandFranny]

That's true. I tried to find a real coil checker around town, but that was a no-go. I do have a way to test it properly now and that will be coming up :)

[@mikedx2706]

Congrats on curing the problem!

[@bigmacdaddy1234]

You didn't watch it until the end....shame shame.

[@Paulman50]

I was chasing a rough running VW. One problem solved was the new rotor was too short giving an extra .65mm gap to spark across. The other problem was solved by advancing the idle to 14° 900rpm, 30° 3000rpm (hot cam, low compression engine).

[@2alejandro2008]

Wonderful as always ....Thank You for sharing

[@yourtaxdollarsatwork2294]

I had a similar problem with an older (1969) 911T I rebuilt the body and engine on. It had a miss and occasional backfire that I was sure must have been due to bad valve timing or ????. After a hundred hours or so of pulling crap apart, rechecking my work and scratching my head I noticed a carbon track along the underside of the distributor rotor to a metal "spike" that was riveted to the rotor (it was a factory rotor and that "spike" was supposed to be there for unknown reasons). Occasionally the spark would travel to that spike and fire the engine 180 degrees out of phase. Replacing the rotor solved the issue. Evidently not the issue here but readers may find that nugget of info useful.

[@HeidiandFranny]

You bet! Thanks for that! Glad you finally found it. Great work!

[@salimmohamedali1694]

Best show ever, I anxiously wait every week for your upcoming video, great work!

[@stefanjust1912]

Love this community based result. So well done !

[@nickmyron8284]

A suggestion, check all 3 terminals against the housing of the coil as well to make sure both windings are not shorted to the housing. Love your show!! I am hunting for a 911 :)

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks for that!

[@billhartsfield424]

I would try spraying brake cleaner or WD 40 around intake and vacuum lines to rule out vacuum leak causing surge. Quick easy test,before go8ng on to more in depth items. Good luck, can’t wait to see what the cure is!

[@timstrange1505]

check for air leaks around inlet manifold , only seems problem when hot

[@maximequillere8699]

Hi Franny, a good upgrade on the ignition would be a CDI from Classic Retrofit, it does not drop in tension nor intensity at higher rev like the bosch one. Plus it gives a double spark to each cylinder on the ignition stroke and the ignition curve is fully configurable. Great content thanks for the show :)

[@HeidiandFranny]

Thanks for that!

[@euskaldhmendi7646]

I do have the exact same issue going on my 1984 3.2 after rebuilding my engine! Hope you'll find it but I think it is a vaccum leak

[@nissanneal]

At 11:44. Only running on 5 cyls?

[@HeidiandFranny]

I'll go over this a bit in the next video...

[@jibmaster]

Noooooo! How frustrating! I thought you had it. Sorry if I missed this previously, but could this be a cold solder on your ECU board? You have touched on every single thing I would have done. That is the single cleanest 3.2 I've ever laid eyes on! Great attention to detail.

[@dord1954]

Great work, pleased its running well. I had a 1989 3.2 carrera sport from 2000 to 2010 it was fantastic fun and I wish I had kept it ☹️

[@jamcdona]

I LOL'd at the last little bit- so typical of cool-car ownership and self maintenance! Sounds like the O2 sensor died.