Build an HO Scale switching layout! MRRTwo Complete Build!

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[@Cowboy_Steve]

Howdy Jimmy! Yeah I'm really liking what you did here. I subbed about a year ago so I started in the middle. This is a GREAT summary of the project. I just don't have room for a full HO layout. What I like about this is it will allow me to work on all the fundamentals of building a layout while keeping the footprint manageable. Plus I can design it to plug into a larger layout someday. Or maybe just keep adding modules. And still keep it kinda portable if I want to take it to a show or something. Between you and Boomer Diorama I think I'm convinced I need to start small. A switching layout still lets me operate the trains and annoy my wife with the train sounds 😁 Really well done and thanks for sharing! 🤠

[@bobainsworth5057]

Why would you use juicer if you have tortoise machines that have sw. Contacts that can power frog?

[@mikihill88]

I remember you starting this, and it turned out great. You've taught me so much, and your talent is great in both modeling and videography. Please keep making your videos, and I'll keep watching.

[@frankbaran5698]

Thank you for explaining what is involved in building a small shelf layout. I learned that DDC, busses, Tortoise machines and extensive wiring are prerequisites for optimal performance. Having considered the matter, I’ve decided not to get involved in model railroading. The electronics are too complicated, too expensive and too confusing. I’m not an electrical engineer. I probably will retain a few freight cars and a locomotive as a static display. A cabinet from Ikea would be ideal. I’m glad I didn’t spend a fortune jumping into a hobby that is far beyond my budget, time or skills.

[@genejablonski9909]

Fantastic instructional video applying to all scales. Thanks

[@roydrink]

Great work! I’ve watched parts before, but went through until the end.

[@Keith80027]

Thank you for your build as I looking into starting my RR now that I moved into my new house after being burnt out for two years.

[@stanstocker8858]

Adding an air assist to your laser will help with cleaner faster cuts and less soot and discoloration. Enjoyed the build, our club layout has green LEDs for the clear route and red ones for the open route on each switch. This is useful not only for switches 20+ foot away from the panel but also for giving indications of switch settings blocked by other trains or in some cases scenery and buildings. I'm planning on using the tiny 9 gram servos with the arduino add on PWM boards for the layout that's in planning here. Have fun!

[@alanandammakingnewmemories2950]

great little unit pal well done

[@njRRtrainer]

Great usual information to get things going - Thank you for sharing..

[@CatMan-rm2pc]

Nice work!

[@jeffheins6624]

Ikea table tops work good as well

[@goforitpainting]

Professional 🚂

[@grahambo-42]

14:12 Even though I know how cork roadbed works and that you were saying "tearable" I still heard "terrible" in my mind.

[@Homebrew58]

for sanding pieces like that you can use finger nail files.

[@CopperCanyonRailway]

I like continuous layouts more but this looks cool Thanks jimmy

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

They're really fun and you can spend a lot of time doing stuff. I myself also has a layout that continues as a loop, and sometimes you want to just let trains run while you do something else, but real railroads also don't just constantly run in a loop. They deliver stuff and pick stuff up and make profit, which I think is really cool. Especially when you get up to HO, it's a HUGE investment in space to have something continuous.

[@Ozarktrains]

The cork roadbed is hard to get sometimes. Someone will want it!

[@VauxhallRailfan]

wait a second, this was posted 42 minutes ago, am i delusional or did he already build this before?

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

You're not crazy. I have started putting some of my videos into single videos as collections so that they are easier to find and watch. Many people have actually requested these.

[@VauxhallRailfan]

oh i see, smart move.

[@shawnpowell5876]

Great video Jimmy of the new switching layout! That's what my friend built for me recently. Its U shaped 2x8, 2x12 and 2x8 at 36" tall with shelves underneath for extra rolling stock and locomotives. Im sure you know I'm a disabled Delawarian due to a hereditary nerve disease. I'm creating a railroad man cave in our new home. One section of wall is designated for railroad stickers that I've received from other KZbinrs. Was wondering if you'd be interested in donating one of yours to put on the wall with others I've received. Thanks for your time in reading this msg. Cheers from Laurel, Delaware USA.

[@charlierumsfeld6626]

Were there constant earthquakes going on? Every time you did something the whole table moved.

[@jk180]

Don't the Tortoise switch machines also allow for providing Frog juicing and signal control?

[@matthew2000tx]

If I were doing this I would invest in a Pocket Hole Jig

[@user-qd7vx7ku4n]

Hey, i love ur content! when u made ur new switching layout, is there a need to use any insulated track joiners? I made it that far already from watching your videos!

[@kensomething379]

Amateur question I'm sure, But why not paint the board and then add the cork and track? Wouldn't that be quicker and easier?

[@ElliottPattersonTrains]

Can I get a link to where you get your switches the boxes to switch them plz

[@andycrawford9870]

OMG, how many clamps do you have? Did you use regular or cable staples? Regular staples could break your wires.

[@harley19752010]

Not that it matters now but my question is why did you not use the dpdt contacts in the tortoise for your frog power?

[@terryhenderson8405]

Can I asked size plywood ??

[@genejablonski9909]

Is there a reason you didn't use the tortoise machine contacts to power the frogs? Also, did you consider painting the track before you installed it. These are certainly not to be critical, just curious questions. Thanks

[@petevan7752]

Nice Jimmy... Do you solder just the outside of the rail or both sides?

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

You don't generally want to solder the inside as it could obstruct the flangeways and mess with the gauge.

[@charlierumsfeld6626]

I would leave screws in it

[@Christiane069]

Where are the descriptions bellow of all the items in the video?

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

Oops! I’ll have to put those in. This is a compilation video.

[@Christiane069]

Ok, thanks for the feedback. Looking for more, good job.

[@inakidb]

I know that this will be an idiot question, but I have no idea of this hobby, why did you apply the ballast first and then the scenery??, Instead opposite like railroad are real build??

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

I'm guessing because it can LOOK real instead of the way the process is done. Scenery doesn't grow on a model, so you have to make it look like it's growing.

[@inakidb]

@@andrewlaverghetta715 got it. thank you for your answer.

[@roulernbleu4532]

I guess it's easier to ballast first and cover the track later if needed when adding scenery, than covering everything when adding ballast as the last step. 🤔

[@inakidb]

@@roulernbleu4532 In my non hobby mind, should be: cork, track, scenery then ballast.

[@TheSteamTrainMan]

Are you replacing your old one 😫

[@VauxhallRailfan]

if you mean that he replaced his big layout, he didn't. this is a different project he built before.

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

I think he IS going to be making a T trak layout and I think he's going to need to take apart the normal N scale layout, but this layout it from...idk, sometime last year or before. It's just a series of videos that was combined into one long video. I kind of wish he had made a different video opening to explain. It won't matter in a couple months anyways.

[@VauxhallRailfan]

Yeah, he is indeed building a new one. I meant that he didn’t replace is current ‘big’ one with MRR2

[@user-zz3rr4qf1p]

The electronics portion of the video seemed like overkill to me. All the different circuit boards etc. I wired up my last small switching layout with a few DCC leads to each branch as you did. I kept the three way switch isolated and powered it separately. I suppose I could have used a computer chip to regulate which rail got power on the three way, but I just used a series of three manual electrical switches to toggle the power as needed. I opted to hand throw my one turnout. Still I am not sure why you needed all that electronic gizmo stuff on the layout. I am not critiquing you but just saying that I don't understand the reasoning. You have no signal lights that I can see, so all you needed was to power the motors for the turnouts.... sorry for my lack of understanding.

[@csullivancox]

Yeah I don’t get it either. The layout I built as a child was a 4x8 + 4x4 figure 8 plus oval. From what I remember I had four powered switches. I had a control board with the switches for the turnouts. It was all powered from one transformer with 12v out to power the switches and lights. No raspberry pi or circuit boards.

[@vitovolpe567]

Why not cover the whole board in cork

[@dad7087]

Might as well use foam at that point

[@roulernbleu4532]

I would say that even a small height difference makes it look more realistic than a completely flat cork board. 🤔