Build your Own Ambilight Part 3 - Building the Ambilight! Hyperion, WS2812B, NodeMCU, & Raspberry Pi

Part 3 of a 3 part series dedicated to building your own home theatre ambilight with a Raspberry Pi, NodeMCU, and WS2812B LED strips. Hyperion.NG WLED
Part 1: Raspberry Pi 3 | 4 | Zero Headless Setup & Hyperion.NG Install
• Build your Own Ambilig...
Part 2: Flashing WLED to NodeMCU & Configuring WiFi Settings
• Build your Own Ambilig...
Part 3: Building the Ambilight! WS2812B LEDs, NodeMCU, and Raspberry Pi
• Build your Own Ambilig...
Github:
github.com/mic...
Wiring Diagram, WS2812B & NodeMCU:
i.imgur.com/a2...
Links:
NodeMCU PyFlasher [Win/MacOS]: github.com/mar...
WLED: github.com/Air...
Hardware:
HDMI USB Video Grabber:
** AliExpress [this is the exact one I bought]: www.aliexpress...
** Amazon link [looks to be the exact same one, but can't vouch for it per se]: amzn.to/3ns9HqW
NodeMCU ESP8266
~300 [WS2812B LEDs: www.aliexpress...
60/m WS2812B LEDs: amzn.to/30M1q7I
5v 30a Power Supply: amzn.to/3nuTLUW
4K Splitter: amzn.to/3daatnK
HDMI - RCA Converter: amzn.to/2I2iSxY
RCA - USB Video Grabber: amzn.to/3nvxlCT
Build Parts:
Project Boxes: amzn.to/34ABJrz
Standoffs: amzn.to/2SBIoMu
White Clips: amzn.to/3lvu0Sn
5v10a Power Supply: amzn.to/30Luo7k
22 AWG Wire: amzn.to/3iFQqig
3-pin M/F Connectors: amzn.to/2SEyE4c
Flip Terminals: amzn.to/33H6KuX
Flux: amzn.to/3lscNcF
M/F Barrel 10-ft Cord: amzn.to/3jN1hIs

[@Sym0nd0]

Hi Mike, just wanted to report back and thank you. Now all my parts have arrived from China I've got this up and running, all thanks to you. Really pleased with it. Hyperion threw me a curve ball and didn't auto select the source for my Easycap but after some random clicking about the UI and swearing I managed to manually set it. Thanks again for all your hard work.

[@notjndatz]

This series was incredibly helpful, well written, and as detailed as needed to make me feel confident for handling this project at home. Thanks!

[@TBL_stevennelson]

You should Continue being a DIY tech KZbinr, You have done a great job.

[@DrSatan066]

Done, thanks for the help man. Ran to a nodemcu from the pi, with wled and hyperion. Ironed out the wrinkles and it is glorious. Sidenote: The flickers weren't from power. Wled and hyperion have to be taught to talk well. Make sure yall force max brightness and set your brightness limiter correctly in wled. Hope this helps at least one person. It should really be in the set up tutorial here.. but you didn't go 5v 20a so you didn't need all that. Cheers mate!

[@MadeByMiro]

Good mention man. Glad things are working well!

[@Richie5903]

Thanks for all 3 parts of this very helpful video. I have been pulling whats left of my hair out now for a couple of days and thanks to you I am now slowly making progress at last.

[@EverythingSmartHome]

Excellent project! Thanks for this, very detailed!

[@bobgodd]

The USB grabber you linked, is that the exact one that you used? Many people insist you can only get hyperion to work if your grabber has the UTV007 chip. But seems not the case if yours doesn't. That's great news for lots of folks, because the UTV007 chip is getting much harder to find that's not a fake.

[@derickdowney6992]

Thank you for making this! I have this project saved. I want to do this in my home theater now!

[@r5bc]

Many thanks sir for this 3 parts tutorial, you did an amazing and up to date work. Please keep it up (subscribed)

[@MadeByMiro]

Thanks a ton!

[@evanphillips3981]

Hey Michael thanks again for all this, as it was a solid baseline as far as the hardware. I actually got my setup working with an HDMI video grabber, which is pretty awesome. I need to figure out how to turn down the resolution as now my live grabber preview within HYperion shows a huge screen, causing a delay in my lights. However the color replication is now far more accurate. Pretty cool!

[@devranbruinen4263]

Interesting, but can you maken one that works on Android devices? Like a Shield or Android TV? More and more people are using Android TV and the apps installed on them, so there are no more HDMI cables to use to get the data from.

[@RufusThePorkshank]

Nice tutorial. The only thing i would change is to take the LED strips out of the plastic weather strip. I've had much more success keeping naked strips secured to the back of a warm TV for much longer. I've got 65" TV with a set of naked strips that have been in place for at least 2 years now, but the plastic crap on my pc monitor keeps falling off.

[@Syncratci]

It's crazy how responsive yours is even over wifi. I set mine up directly off the raspberry pi GPIO-18 and it's so much less responsive still. I think the issue might be my USB video grabber. I'm going to pick up the one you recommended (and the HDMI-RCA converter) and see if its any faster.

[@ttttttttttttttttist]

Great set of videos thanks, in your first video it looked like you had some other lights synced to the TV ones as well. Is that possible with this software?

[@Dan-wb7sw]

I am a subscriber now! Thanks! I have 244 LEDs around a 105 inch projector screen and with a little poking I managed to get it working... Lag is very minimal on the pi 3b+. My list of minor issues are: I did have to use HyperBian for the Web interface to work on the Pi. The splitter is a little janky with my Denon Receiver, but works. Might be becasue of the 4k. I have a back feed of power from my HTML wire I have to unplug or my LEDs keep glowing after the power supply is shut off, not sure if that is the splitter or the Denon. Last the LEDs all reset about every 30 minutes, for 2 seconds during a movie. I am going to set my default color to something more unnoticeable than orange, so I do not notice the reset. (any tips on how to troubleshoot the reset are welcomed) One last tip, the wire between the WLED and the screen has to be short... or the signal did not make it all the way around the addressable LED strip, but mine is fairly long though, about 28 feet. A pleasurable experience and have produced something you can not buy yet which is really cool.

[@hilmidwiputranto6944]

could be not strong enough PSU or WiFi is not stable

[@rhncnd]

Nice and clear tutorial. I just noticed though that sometimes even a portion of the screen already faded from green to black, the relevant LED still let out a faint green color (as seen on 17:58, upper left). Is this really how it is or this is something that can be tweaked by settings? I am decided whether to go wireless or wired directly to pi. On some tutorials with the LEDs wired directly to pi, I didn't notice the same left over colors. Could this be a side effect of the data being transmitted wirelessly?

[@lewisshews912]

I'm assuming this ONLY works with an outside source being input in to the Pi? ie: the apps on a smart TV would not be able to register the Hyperion coloring, but an xbox one, set as the HDMI input, would?

[@DarrinKing1]

Hi, why would we need the HDMI to RCA adaptors, Why not just connect the out from splitter to an HDMI to USB, Does the RCA Adaptors work better?

[@kevinsargent5228]

Curious also. The parts list includes HDMI->USB capture. I'm curious if the Pi capturing HDMI directly is to slow while dropping the signal down to RCA/Analog over USB would be a very small signal compared to straight HDMI

[@rothbart2358]

Question... I thought when you had an HDMI splitter, the signal was the lowest common denominator. So you can't "split" 4k to one device and 1080p to another device... they would both, in effect, be 1080p at that point because that's the lowest common denominator. I have a situation with a Lightberry setup of mine where I want to allow 4k60 w/HDR to my TV, but output 1080p30 to my USB grabber and as far as I can tell, it will involve adding a device that can downscale the signal but also spoof the HDMI identifiers so the splitter thinks both are 4k60fps w/HDR but only one really is. Also, I've had mixed issues with HDR causing my leds to barely light up (I'm assuming the captured signal appears really washed out). While I haven't looked into the hardware Lightberry sells inside its boxes, when I've monkeyed around with making similar setups (not using a NodeMCU, just an RPi) the LED strips would occasionally just sporadically light up 1-2 LEDs at one end of the strip and some sort of resistor or something was needed to keep that from happening. Is this not needed when using a NodeMCU? In other words, if you leave this on for a long time with no video signal, do lights occasionally come on on their own?

[@withheld566]

some spilters also do down scaling,. "So you can't "split" 4k to one device and 1080p", you can and it is exactly what they do

[@flurlify]

Thanks for the comprehensive tutorial, will be attempting this soon Question regarding capture, I see that there are some pi compatible HDMI to USB grabbers, is there a particular reason you're covering HDMI to composite then composite to USB?

[@MadeByMiro]

I didn't have an HDMI > USB capture card at the time. That's actually what I'm currently using in my setup. surprisingly, it actually increased the latency a tiny bit

[@orientmob]

Can i use a Splitter with more HDMI Inputs and can i use this LEDs SK6812??

[@JeSuisYash]

This maybe a stupid question but what if you have multiple input like here you have a single firestick. My question is if i have multiple input like Firestick, Xbox, PC HDMI, Home theatre. Then how do connect then to the Hyperion, do i need to unplug/plug connections manually or is there a better way

[@scooter0241]

Ok quick question, I don't use a fire stick or anything I just use the Netflix/Amazon apps on my TV. There is no way to.get video out to the other devices for hyperion to read is there?

[@jrf6989]

Great video's man! Appreciate the effort and will definetly build a couple for at home! Subbed.

[@zuhairshafai5465]

Thank you for the excellent tutorial Mike, I want to ask what is the difference between using NodeMCU ESP8266 or connecting the LED directly to Raspberry?

[@BrettLesnau]

I've wondered the same thing. Other tutorials online connect the Pi to an Arduino instead of the NodeMCU. I've read it's because the Pi is running a real OS, which interrupts the signals to hardware like LEDs when the OS is doing other work. It sounds like it can cause flicking or lag when talking to the LEDs.

[@shafaievents7479]

@@BrettLesnau I’m using HyperBian image on Pi with the lights directly connected. It’s running flawlessly, I’m just wondering if I might be missing any features on my setup.

[@juggalizzle75]

i've wondered this as well. I think it was just a matter of available capture devices at the time. I run directly from pi and its flawless. I run 2 nodemcus for additional lighting on the sides. The pi, especially a headless one, uses very little resources. You could run hyperion on a raspberry pi zero or a v1.

[@GoranMilici]

It took me 2 days but your video is combined with drz is the only ones that got it to work for me. But I'm confused. Why did I struggle to get hyperion working when it seems that the one in charge and controlling everything is the wled app. That one overrides anything hyperion is does. Full disclosure I don't have a hdmi spliter until the morning so my android TV box is just going to the video capture in the raspberry but could that be the reason or is it supposed to be this way and wled have all the power. Just confused and because of all the hours I put into it I would like to understand whats going on.

[@JoeryPigmans]

hey mike. excellent series. But i have a question that hopefully you can answer for me. You are using WS2812B strips in your setup. But can these be swapped to a different strip at all or does it work with specific strips only?

[@MadeByMiro]

the wiring will definitely be different, especially if the LED strips are RGBW or the like. Google for ' NodeMCU wiring' and there are usually tons of diagrams floating around. The WLED config will need to be updated in terms of RGB order as well. Unfortunately, I have no experience with other strips at the moment so I can't really offer any solid advice I can stand behind, but best of luck!

[@Kompakuta]

@@MadeByMiro will it work 4k HDR on my Sony TV?

[@klausvilling2385]

Hello, I'm also confused. If the UDP port in Wled is 21324 why do we need to set the port in hyperion to 19446?

[@boopeshkumarprabhakaran]

If i want to see content from my smart tv directly without any external streaming device (like chromecast or firetv) then will it be work?

[@carlosriquinha8036]

Hey Mike, I am getting "flashing" on my tv screen. What would cause this? Using your setup but ran power to both ends of less due to length. Thanks for the great tutorial.

[@DeanTheMean1976]

I guess if I want my PS5 HDR 5.1 to display and sound perfectly this ain't the solution, right? Does the splitter let exerything passthrough even if one end is connected to a capture card?

[@tumchaaditya]

Thanks for the great tutorials. What happens when you turn the TV off using remote? Do the LEDs stay ON? Is there any way to turn off LEDs when you turn TV off?

[@MadeByMiro]

I use a Harmony hub and Alexa to create a routine to turn off the devices and the wled receiver, then a routine to turn it all on. Gotta find what works best for you!

[@ronny-andrebendiksen4137]

Do you need the whole HDMI->RCA-USB Video Converter when you have the HDMI USB Video Grabber to USB?

[@mg3point]

Great work! Curious of the advantages of using the nodeMCU? I've had a setup for years running just from a pi and the same multi device path from hdmi. Due to a flooded basement I'm about to redo it all and happy to see how much farther hyperion has gotten. So much easier now. Curious to dig into the effect configuration. I had hand coded my own to create a goal light and tied that into a service checking live hockey scores. Gotta get it all running again for the playoffs.

[@MadeByMiro]

I like using the NodeMCU to have the backup full-scope ambilight with effects should I ever decide to get rid of/repurpose the RPi. In truth, I see no real stutter using WLED as a udp receiver, so I figured why not?

[@TheRoyCWalton]

To add to what OP says below: if you read up on how to use Hyperion with WS2801/2812 LEDs on an Raspberry Pi you'll find there are a LOT of hoops you need to jump through and restrictions you'll need to account for. This makes it remarkably more simple, albeit at the trade off of having 2 IOT devices for 1 function.

[@mg3point]

@@TheRoyCWalton Thanks! Yeah, i've gone through several of those hoops in the past. I actually just went back and redid my whole setup on a pi4 instead of my pi2. Found that they've made it super simple with HyperBian. Seems to be working solidly for the most part. Might have to rebuild my level shift circuit. Works great with video input and effects but goes crazy when i try to set a solid color.Trying to nail that down now.

[@briaireous]

Thanks for sharing this on reddit! and great video!

[@muratsonmez3508]

once in a while the wled and hyperiyon breaks wled interface leds flashing again wled connecting with raspberry pi it happens for 1/2 second do you think the problem could be

[@otisrhw]

I have a Sony TV with Android TV built in, I am assuming this will not work unless I have external HDMI?

[@akashpillai01]

How to add more light to sync like bulbs 💡 please help

[@paulkelly9769]

Sick dude! Really enjoyed this

Cool project, will definitely do it. Subscribed.

[@aikennguyen9328]

My hyperion output rainbow color when I turn off the signal (white - yellow- green - red - blue) . I try to change the background effect setting but it does not work. pretty sure its from the pi4b because when I turn off pi4 I can still control the led using nodemcu via WLED

[@dorszes]

Hoping to get some help here... i bought ambilight kit based on pi3 model b from aliexpress... it was running for 10 days. I have no clue how to fix it.. can not connect to hyperion via webbrowser - connection refused.

[@ViciousXUSMC]

There are some pre-made solutions out there now that kind of have most of the work done already. I still would like to do this project under one condition. Does this work with HDCP protected content like Netflix? It seems most if not all the pre-made solutions do not work in those conditions. If this does, then its by far the better way to go.

[@ViciousXUSMC]

@@MadeByMiro Very good, I'll start ordering parts lol. Why 2 power supplies in the parts list? One for the testing and one for the actual production item? I am upgrading both power supplies just because its not much more. I also found its not much more expensive to get the LED's on Amazon with everything else. Worth cutting the wait IMO as a few dollars is nothing compared to the project cost as a whole.

[@simonmuxlow9161]

@@ViciousXUSMC I was just about to ask about the two different power supplies, as the 30a should be enough to power the LEDs and NodeMcu. I'm guessing Mike is using the 10a for his extra LEDs to the side of his shelving.

[@ViciousXUSMC]

@@simonmuxlow9161 ~60ma per LED MAX I have 219 LED 219*60/1000 = 13A and I used a 15A power supply. WLED does not show anything close to that 13A actually used but better to have headroom.

[@gamersklub9714]

yes it can bypass drm protection

[@mehmetatila999]

Merhaba bana yardımcı olur musun malzemeler hemen hemen var ancak raspberry pi hakkında bilgim yok kuramıyorun

[@huntstarr]

Love this my dude :) keep it up ill be doing this my self

[@anthonyjames7680]

Hi good Day. Does 4k hdr works? It's important for to know if hdr is supported on this setup.

[@satpreetsingh8109]

Great work. But I'm stuck. I can't get my leds to turn on. I have 5V 10a powersupply and connect as you did. Mcu turns on but leds do not. What am I doing wrong?

[@thijs7541]

is it also not showing up when you try it via WLED? if it is, the problem is at hyperion. If it doesnt show up via the WLED interface either it must be the wiring between the NodeMCU and the LED strip. it could also be a compatability isue. the only LED strip that works with WLED are the WS2812B LEDS, if you use another kind of led strip, the leds are a little bit different and the nodeMCU wont be able to control it. i hope you figure it out, i am trying to get this thing working without a raspberry by letting the TV directly talk to the NodeMCU over wifi, but i dont know if its possible let me know if you guys find anything

[@satpreetsingh8109]

@@thijs7541 I'll give this a try again. Not sure if I need a level shifter because I do have btf 2812B leds. The mcu does turn on and I can find it in the app and configure everything but no leds lights.

[@thijs7541]

@@satpreetsingh8109 could it be possible you fried some leds? I once had an ledstrip i accidentally electrocuted the beginning of the led strip and i had to cut 3 leds off before the rest worked. Some leds turned on in weird colours tho so it might not be your problem but its the last thing i can think of

[@melvinkeppel]

Is it possible to drive the leds directly from WLED in this setup?

[@ingdavidino]

Hey Mike, great video thanks. Have you already tried the hyperion-android-grabber?

[@MadeByMiro]

I have not, as all my devices route through my AVR and into the Pi. I could download it on my Fire TV Stick and unplug the grabber just to test it out. I'm working on a 3D printing video for DIY nano leaves right now, but maybe I'll break for a bit and get an Android Screen Grabber test video up too

[@ingdavidino]

@@MadeByMiro Thanks. Given you already have everything set up the comparison could be interesting.

[@ViciousXUSMC]

Well got it all done today, had some trouble with the HDMI splitter. It seems to be kind of picky to get it working. The other issue I have is Hyperion seems to have a latency issue of a second or two that makes it just not work the way you would want. I do not think its capture latency though because even if I use a pre-defined effect in Hyperion I see it hitch and skip as compared to using an effect directly from WLED its smooth without issue. Hyperion is on a Pi3 B any ideas? Also I have to wonder after doing this project. If you could cut the NodeMCU out completely and run everything off the Pi3 so that you completly eliminate the transfer of code over the network.

[@chrisreese2965]

I tried this. Don't do it, Connecting the light strip directly to the RPI opens up a whole bunch of potential issues.

[@ViciousXUSMC]

@@chrisreese2965 I never had any issues, I can see how it would if perhaps you were asking too much power, but I checked all those statistics before building. On all my new LED projects I use 12v power supplies and if needed a buck converter to step down to 5v, but for this project that wasnt needed.

[@chrisreese2965]

So the RPI doesn't even have to be near the TV, or by the TV.

[@HeszaR]

Thanks for this tutorial, but is there any solution regarding lights staying on when the source is off (when there is no signal)?

[@MadeByMiro]

Interesting, I don't see this as my Alexa routines control power for the wled controller

[@asiony2473]

why my WS2812 LED keep strobing and flickering even though the coler is correct? Is it a signal or power issue?

[@senpuuxd1032]

is it work with movie played from external hdd?

[@romaindemaison3127]

Don't understand why you choose to use a node mcu instead of the raspberry gpio output. However, I would love to see Hyperion directly installed on the node MCU, without any need of raspberry. I am sure that it is possible with the hardware, and it would be nice as I use the Android application with my TV shield. I think that the raspberry is overrated to only run Hyperion instance...

[@MadeByMiro]

lol everyone keeps asking this. I like using the NodeMCU to have the backup full-scope ambilight with effects should i ever decide to get rid of/repurpose the RPi. In truth, I see no real stutter using WLED as a udp receiver, so I figured why not? My RPi running Hyperion doubles as the second in a round-robin AdGuard setup on my home network, as I route all my DNS entries through AdGuard [originally was using PiHole, but switched over]

[@EsotericArctos]

Your tutorial is pretty good. I am not quite sure why you use WLED and the NodeMCU rather than using one of the Raspberry Pi GPIO Pins to drive the LED data directly. I know it works either way, but just would save a step :). The only thing that made me cringe was the soldering. Carrying the solder to a joint is a big red flag. All the flux from the core of the solder is burnt off. You should always apply the solder to the joint. Apart from that little thing, I did enjoy your tutorial over all.

[@MadeByMiro]

I like using the NodeMCU to have the backup full-scope ambilight with effects should I ever decide to get rid of/repurpose the RPi. In truth, I see no real stutter using WLED as a udp receiver, so I figured why not? Great tip on the soldering process. I've always done it this way with no obviously visible issues, but I'll definitely have to look into better practices!

[@EsotericArctos]

@@MadeByMiro With the soldering, you'll notice that puff of vapour when you touch the iron to the solder. That's the rosin/flux core of the solder vapourising. That leaves the solder on the iron dry. You'll get better flow if you touch the iron to your workpiece, and then apply solder to it :). Just a tip. I learnt through my own mistakes over time and I certainly won't claim to be amazing with solder either :)

[@ya-gz6wz]

Thank you for your video man life saver 👌👌👌👌👌👌

[@noz3m]

Will this work with an Android box - Nvidia shield hooked up to an 4k 65inch 100hz TV? or would i lose HDR and CEC while doing this?

[@slavdoktorov921]

How much did the whole thing cost?

[@InSaiyanShinobi]

I just bought a 300 led 5 m strip I’m lost on what power supply I should get I just bought everything expect the psu

[@pashdown]

300 x .30W = 90W / 5V = 18A power supply. Meanwell LRS-100-5

[@Aqua-uq7ix]

WoW! This is amazing dude !

[@evkonoff]

Is there any way to connect nodeMCU directly to rPie without using a wifi?

[@armandolopez7445]

I did the install and everything works with just the raspberry pi and other items but no NODEMCU

[@MadeByMiro]

Nice man! NodeMCU is an optional addition I use for extra lighting features / incorporate into Alexa routines w/ Harmony Hub Scenes for total control over my setup

[@Kompakuta]

Can I use it with my Sony TV in 4k HDR?

[@jkserial]

I have a question about the hdmi splitter. I need it to support 4k 60, hdr and atmos 9.1 sound. What would you suggest?

[@MadeByMiro]

So mine works on all uhd 4k listed content, as well as my 7.1 setup. Anything better quality than that, I can't help with yet, since I'm moving in a couple months and I'm not upgrading equipment until after that

[@evkonoff]

Thanks man, great guide

[@MrBluemoonhalos]

What Raspberry Pi board are you using?

[@staticmin3]

thank u liked and subbed

[@elnarutouchiha]

I have a question can you just run the Hyperion led color change by the IP address instead of HDMI?

[@MadeByMiro]

You can use something like "Android Hyperion Grabber" to send the picture data to Hyperion over the network of you're using an Android TV device or something of the like. I'm working on a video right now that's almost done about configuring it on a fire stick!

[@jakeladley3075]

Hi, you listed the 5v 30a Power Supply as a part needed in hardware.... what do you use this for?

[@MadeByMiro]

I use it to power both the NodeMCU and my LEDs. I run a long, flat 5v Barrel Jack extender up through that white cable run beneath the TV and wire it up directly

[@juggalizzle75]

holy hell thats a lot of amps. I think overkill. i'm running almost 200 leds with 60 led/meter and the conservative amp draw when all white is more like 14amps lol

[@MadeByMiro]

@@juggalizzle75 lol better safe than sorry. Plus I can use the power supply fort other things as long as I'm reserved about it

[@forklift385]

super cool, thanks

[@allffrommars6019]

Hey U dont have a Input lag? I have 500ms lag from TV Picture to Led color ?

[@donuldvan]

Change the settings on the capture card in Hyperion. Set it to 720p instead of 1080p and it should be more responsive.

[@anthai104]

i install hyperion ng on PC , and use ur config for hyperion , and wled , but it did not work :(((

[@Aqua-uq7ix]

Hold da kæft det er mere avanceret end jeg lige havde regnet med haha. Men det er det bedste ambient jeg har set, det er en stor mundfuld for en som ikke roder meget med PI dog, men jeg kunne godt være frisk på at give det nogle forsøg, da jeg er helt sikker på jeg ikke vil 1shot det :D

[@DrDrewsAdventures]

How does this work with letter box video?

[@silirat]

Hi. I'm in the process of sourcing parts (the HDMI to USB is proving troublesome from my area). I'm just not certain what the second power supply is for? Under hardware there is a 5v 30a power supply, and then a 5v 10a power supply in the build section. You mention the 5v 10a during the build vidoe, but I can't find reference to the other supply. The only thing that seems to be missing power is the Rasperberry PI, is that what it is for? Thanks.

[@roystervi]

does this interact while watching a movie?

[@evanphillips3981]

that's basically the point of this setup... it should work viewing anything on your television

[@Mathoosala]

Link to the 3 wire solder cables?

[@Mathoosala]

@@MadeByMiro Thanks!

[@sSkiRilLexD]

could you send me the print file?

[@tonyc1036]

I think there are better options for this. First, you really do not absolutely need the NodeMCU (unless your pi is going to be across the room from your led strip) but whatever. I'm not sure why you would use WLED / NodeMCU. For users in a radio-noisy environment, your solution could introduce latency. But it definitely introduces unnecessary costs, right? Second, the capture device is completely unneeded as there are HDMI to USB capture devices, which cost less total money. Third, why not use no-solder right angle corners for your strips? Easy and much cheaper for most folks, right? I understand the difficulties with using the right angle connectors, but giving an explanation is really valuable. If there is a valid reason you made the decisions you chose here, please upload a fourth part to this series to explain WHY you made these hardware decisions. In my opinion, this video (and it's lack of explanation as to why you made the hardware choices you did) demonstrates why you have only 215 subscribers. If you created more useful content (i.e., content that includes explanations of underlying decisions rather than just...how to), I would subscribe. I can't help but feel there is a metric ton of info missing from this video. I am also completely unsure as to why this was split across three clips. I get that youtubers have a fear of uploading long videos. But anyone interested in this project would watch a long video about this project...doncha think? I feel like anyone who owns a soldering iron would watch a video longer than 10mins at 2x playback. Or am I wrong? I suppose I'm actually wrong on this. But still, one video would have been fine.

[@InsaneWayne355]

Ugh. Another "use a splitter so that this setup is useless for smart TVs" video. Where are the USB camera setups/suggestions?

[@MadeByMiro]

'Hyperion Android Grabber' for FireTVs / Android tv is the next option I'm making a video about right now

[@miguelangelgalindo3124]

Hello, I'm confused. If the UDP port in Wled is 21324 why do we need to set the port in hyperion to 19446?