Build Your Own Barn Beam Light Fixture!

Color Cord Company has made a custom barn beam light fixture, and we’re going to show you step by step how you at home can do this using our Cloth Covered Electrical Wire, DIY Lamp Parts, a junction box, steel brackets and of course a big ole barn beam, which we picked up from a local lumber yard. This tutorial will show you how to wire your pendant lighting using our light sockets, cord grips, cloth covered electrical wire, single port ceiling canopy and light sockets covers. We will also go step by step explaining how you wire the pendants into your junction box as well as how to create the steel brackets to mount the barn beam to your ceiling.
STEP 1: Use a thick wired brush to clean off the beam if you prefer to give it a more finished look with a wax paste finish. This step is completely up to your personal preference.
STEP 2: Drill 15 holes in the junction box plate and insert our Male Metal Barrel Cord Grips with a 1/8 IPS lock nut. We are wiring 14 pendants, the 15th hole is for your lead wire that will be wired to your ceiling's junction box and canopy.
STEP 3: Route out a section on the barn beam so the J Box can sit flush with the top of the beam, resulting in a cleaner look with the J Box hidden.
STEP 4: Wire your pendants using our Basic Black Sockets, DIY Lamp Wire, Socket Covers, Cord Grips and Color Cord 3000. If you need additional information on this step, check out our other video How To Wire a Medium Base Basic Black Socket . Then, strip the other end of the cloth covered wire to expose the conductor wires underneath and feed those wire through the J Box plate. Secure the pendants in place using the Male Metal Barrel Cord Grip set screw.
STEP 5: Cut your steel brackets down to the appropriate length, you’ll need to assess the size of your beam to determine what size steel brackets you’ll have to cut. Then we welded the two brackets and took a grinder to them to smooth the corners and prep for primer and paint, which we chose a matte black, but of course painting the brackets is optional.
STEP 6: Drill the appropriate holes on each of the smaller sides of the brackets. The larger holes will be for the bolts that will be drilled directly into the wood. The smaller holes will be for the screws or toggle anchors that will mount the fixture to your ceiling.
STEP 7: Now it’s time to get the beam secured to the ceiling! Properly measure the distance from hole to hole and bracket to bracket and then drill the holes into the ceiling. We are installing this fixture in our photo studio at our HQ, so we're using toggle anchors to mount it to the ceiling, but it is ALWAYS recommended that you use studs or joists, as they are more reliable for installing heavier fixtures. If studs or joists are not an option, make sure you purchase toggle anchors that are rated above the weight of the fixture. Install the toggle anchors in the top of the brackets, then you’ll most likely need some more hands to get the beam lifted so you can insert the toggle anchors into the ceiling. Once you feel that they’ve butterflied out, tighten the anchors up with a power drill. The brackets and beam should be very secure, flush with the ceiling and not shift around on the ceiling.
STEP 8: Next, take the pendants and j box plate and mount it to the body of the junction box using the provided screws.
STEP 9: All that’s left at this point is to wrap the pendants and wire your lead wire to your ceiling canopy and junction box! Wrapping the pendants is all about your personal preference. Choose how you want your pendants to drop and how much overlap you want with your cloth covered electrical wire. It may take some time or even a couple tries to get it wrapped exactly how you prefer.
STEP 10: Once you have your pendants wrapped around the beam, your final step is to wire the lead wire to your canopy and J Box. You’ll see that we’re have a makeshift j box as this space is our photo studio, but you will be wiring your fixture to an actual junction box in your home’s ceiling. The concept is all the same- your green ground wire will go to the J Box ground wire, which is going to be a bare copper wire more often than not. Secure the wires with a wire nut and repeat this same step for your black positive and white negative wires. Mount the canopy back to the canopy bracket using the canopy screws and if you’re using one of our single port canopies, tighten down the set screw to secure the cloth covered electrical wire.
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[@taylorperkins5279]

Great video. Thank you for posting!! I came to this after watching your tutorial on wiring the medium base basic socket. Very clean and professional while giving me the insight I need to try to tackle a similar project on my own. Also, will be visiting your online shop soon to grab some parts!

[@elmarka17]

Какой вы молодец! 👍😁

[@smja5768]

Wau, this is beautiful chandelier. For how much would you sell this to me 😊?

[@Nickolaughagus]

Hello! how much cord should I buy for this light to look as pictured?

[@colorcord]

Hi Nick! Thanks for watching! The cord length depends on several different things: 1. The size of the beam. 2. Number of wraps preferred around the beam per pendant. 3. The length you wish to have the pendants drop below the beam. In the case of this project it was roughly 15-20ft of cord (keep in mind you can cut the cord down if that is too much). We'd recommend acquiring the beam first and then go from there!

[@shannonfroehler9760]

Tried to chat on ykur website but it wouldn't let me finish my question. .. can yku show the wiring process in detail ? I didn't see how to attach the main power cord

[@colorcord]

Hi there, Thank you for watching! Please reach out to us at [e-mail] for more detailed information on how to produce this fixture.

[@darwinberja2323]

What is the size of the wood?

[@colorcord]

Hi there, Thanks for watching! This particular piece of wood was roughly 48"x 9" x 7"

[@tareboda-3436]

Hello, Thanks for this video. However, I would like to ask you, if possible to talk a little in detail on email, please ...? I would ask a few more about building this kind of light. Thanks, Robert

[@colorcord]

Hi Robert, Sure thing! Feel free to email [e-mail] for more information and detail on building this fixture. Thanks for watching!

[@dr_au_jus1360]

You said black positive wire. There is no 'positive' or 'negative'. It's AC not DC. They alternate being positive and negative relative to each other. The RMS potential difference between the black is supposed to be greater than the white relative to the ground wire, hence why it's usually called the HOT side.