Build Your Own Heavy Duty Steering - JK 1 Ton Swap Video Series

[@caroleertel2961]

I don’t understand any of this ... but great job son ❤️

[@txkuntryboy]

lmao awww

[@we0make0videos]

Is this really mom!?

[@justinwhisenhunt2661]

It's ok. Most moms feel the same way.

[@akonitony2]

Dude, the physics of pipe inside of pipe like that are incredible. I doubt you could bend it even trying to do so. Great eye deer

[@deeremeyer1749]

Physics? Lol. What exactly is in MOTION in those "solid" steering "rods"? If there isn't motion there is no Physics. And aluminum is ONLY "strong as steel" by WEIGHT. NOT "SIZE". You cannot "reinforce" STEEL TUBING with aluminum "rod", lol.

[@bruce-bruce7975]

I only came for the Dana 60 info. This is great information. I own a Ford F250. Great video.

[@DonutEngineering]

Hey Ben! I know this is kinda late but for some people following, the aluminum bar isn’t going to make a difference. The steel is much stiffer than the aluminum (even 7075, relative to steel it is very flexible via its Young’s modulus), so by the time the steel deflects enough for the aluminum to take effect, the steel would have already been bent. This concept is very common in composites, regarding putting carbon fiber over fiberglass, the fiberglass does nothing until the carbon breaks, because it’s so much stiffer. Hope I explained this well for people to understand, and please share your thoughts! (I have a masters degree in mechanical engineering, and undergrad degrees in mechanical and aerospace engineering)

[@jessename7849]

I was going to say a thicker wall larger outside (OD) with the same inside (ID) to fit those bungs would be much better & stronger.

[@tousyt7545]

Nice work! Just for the record, the left hand mark on the bung & jam nut that you reference that Barns has done to make it easier ,.... is actually an industry standard for left hand thread nuts & bolts, it's been happen for many years, many years before you & I were born! Again Sweet work on all your videos, I'm buying what your selling!

[@devinscott5988]

I dont know why im so intreaged by your series of DIY D60 videos because I know I couldn't do any of this lol but I honestly enjoy watching them dude. Keep it up.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Thanks for watching man!!! so close to being done. I’m excited to have them under the Jeep so I can get back to making more videos!

[@danf7773]

quick comment regarding adding aluminum core-- the aluminum inside will offer very little stiffness in pure bending, due to the significantly less modulus of elasticity and smaller diameter,. Keep in mind that resistance to bending is a function of a cube of the diameter--d^3. As diameter increases double, you get 8 times the bending stiffness. however, the aluminum will stop buckling, or the reduction and pinch of the steel under deflection. the steel tube cannot pinch into itself while bending, offering some resistance to buckling. the argument can continue that a quarter inch tube is not going to pinch very easily, but there is improvement. Good luck with your build. you will have an excellent result because you are performing everything you can to ensure a quality build

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Yeah I’m unsure how well it will help, but since I’ve bent DOM steering before I wanted to see if this made a difference. Worth a shot 🤘

[@JamesValentineBaja1000]

Agreed

[@ryanschmidt2048]

you should put a safety misalignment spacer under the passenger side tie rod because you mounted it below the bracket. Cool video

[@leeharrison8790]

I really like simple ! It sure eliminates any risk of failure .. there's more of a risk of failure from factory worn out parts that I have come across than a great weld in process ..

[@williamarrowsmiith8380]

Super solid build and it was fun to watch.

[@jayt290]

This has become an engineering piece of art man! Can't wait to see those monsters on there and the smile on your face when that happens! Keep it up!

[@JS-tb9hu]

It will be strong enough for 46"s

[@brianmathe4219]

I noticed you have your dryer vented out into a HD bucket. Cool idea.

[@RottFink]

Awesome video! This makes me want to go outside and yank the axles off of my 08' F250 and start this swap. Don't think State Farm would appreciate that though...

[@vincentsalerno8675]

I have got to comment that pressure treated decking for a straight edge is pretty ghetto, but some times good enough is good enough. Nice work on the vids and the build keep it up.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Haha yeah, it doesn’t have to be perfect. Even with a perfect straight edge you will still be off until you can check it with the axle installed and on the ground

[@jessename7849]

Especially when/ if your not the same distance from the center of the axle (both in front of & above.)

[@roamingtiger]

Man I’m excited to see these in the Jeep!

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Same man. I need to get these under the Jeep so I can continue making other videos. I can tel people are getting tired of these videos

[@roamingtiger]

JK Gear and Gadgets shoot I’m not I can watch these all day I love technical videos. Makes me wanna go one tons even more.

[@vanillagorilla6542]

Nice job Ben. Really enjoying this series,hope to do an axle swap on my tj someday. Your really doing a nice job with everything you’ve really come a long way with the upgrades I really like the idea of the aluminum inside the steel. That should be beefy strong. 👍🏻👍🏻💪🏻

[@bigrockoffroad1779]

This has been a great series. I watched everything except for the last video and this has been awesome. I'll be doing the swap with the same axles maybe next year. My only complaint is the ads, they are all the same haha. I don't know if you have control over it but great work on everything else. I like how you show how the everyman can do these swaps with a little know-how and some new tools.

[@danhambrick6331]

Nice job Ben.I dont know if the aluminium inside will do anything but it cant hurt anything...

[@almondsnackbar4969]

Buy a high steer kit... mount the crossover bar lower. Brilliant.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Well, it’s worked fine for a while now lol. It’s been wheeled all over the country

[@jeepindave5464]

Ive enjoyed the build so far. Not sure if im cool with the tie rod being on the bottom. In the brackets its in a double shear plane. On the bottom it's single shear which is weaker. Probably still way overkill, but with 40s it would worry me.

[@randyanderson1983]

I feel the same idk why it's under I thought it was ment to go in the double sheer spot

[@jasonscott4065]

Barnes,,,,,add the aluminum inserts!!! Ben you’re the man!

[@owilde64]

You’re so close. Really looking forward to the install.

[@williamburch1321]

I really like what you did with the aluminum rod. I’m so going to do that if I have the opportunity

[@maxwellcard]

For the future to prevent spatter you could try an anti spatter spray like one from WeldAid it’s called Weld Kleen, I use it at work and it’s a life saver for spatter!

[@ronkreed]

Another suggestion, if your state does not allow welding steering components is to tap the DOM tubing so that you can screw in your heims directly, negating the need for welding in bungs. I've done both, but prefer threading the DOM if I'm doing a lot of highway driving. That said, a quality welded bung is not going to fail either.

[@georger9998]

So jealous!!! Wish I could find some axles for a decent price. Great build and video Ben. 👍

[@mikehoffman3690]

Dude. You definitely know your stuff. So informative.

[@omorin34]

Thanks for the vid Ben. I hear some states have issues with modifying the steering. Anyone have issues with that? Turned away at an inspection station? Hate to tell you but the Al will not make a difference. Steel has much higher deformation force than Al. Al will bend much easier and typically bend back, "memory". If you hit something with enough force to bend to Steel, the Al does not have enough deformation energy to bend the steel back. If you are looking for that, build the entire unite out of Al. Some folks have. Your unit is harder to bend with the sleeve though.

[@l84jk31]

Glad to see this video is done

[@stay_spoolin816]

If you use the soot from the acetylene on your torch to coat the threads, the splatter from welding won’t stick on the threads.

[@savularity9121]

Awesome video Ben keep up the good work I like watching your all your Videos , you give me ideas once in a while That I'd like to do to mine but right now the savage build is dead in the water, The dealership that installed my shocks Springs and Tie rod sabotage my Jeep in Christmas Eve we were on our way home all the lights lit up on my Dashboard and we hit a tree It sounded like the whole side of my Jeep was destroyed but luckily my wheels stick out Pretty far and protected it, it only hit the wheels but it bent a bracket on my front Dana 44. I would have installed it all myself but I didn't have access to a lift at the time. I just recently went to the auto parts store to get some grease for my grease gun and hit all my grease fittings on my suspension and I found all their Handiwork, I was under my Jeep for 12 hours in the parking lot reconnecting brake lines, fixing bushings. You know what they even gave me back my Jeep with my front drive shaft in the back seat. I'm going down there today and pay them a visit. And what do you think I should do about my suspension arm link that's bent its bent like an inch. Not the suspension arm itself the bracket that's attached to the Dana 44.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Sorry to hear that man! Will insurance help out? As for the bracket I would recommend finding a new HD control arm bracket and have it welded on

[@ilikec]

Make sure the parts are not grounded through bearings when welding. Cool build btw.

[@tommywainst7171]

Great job ben! Hurry up and get them under the jeep 🤣

[@MangoTangoJKU]

Keep up the good work! I really enjoy your videos.

[@Rocscrawler]

Are you school trained or are you school of hard knocks/OJT trained? You definitely know your stuff!!! AND, you are a great teacher! I attended Arizona Automotive Institute before they got sucked up by Universal Technical Institute in Phoenix Az, graduated July 1975. Great job. Sub'ed today because of this video. Will be watching all your video's from now on. Keep up the good work.

[@wellscody86]

The drag link should have went on top, the tie rod is literally the same height as stock just moved forward, and yea the aluminum just added weight with no chance of strengthening it. It all came out nice tho👌🏻

[@JKGearandGadgets]

The aluminum helped out a ton actually. Just not enough to not swap to full alum

[@a2js2]

I would do it in then put it in a lathe and turn it down for you could not see the weld.

[@trevordarling8812]

Great job man it’s really starting to come together!

[@sethmalcolm8247]

Awesome work! I've been following along. Wouldn't it be better to mount the drag link heim above the knuckle?(If there is any interference) Rather than moving the tie-rod down? The way it is now, you have lowered the tie-rod and somewhat defeated the purpose of the high steer knuckle, but you've also put the tie-rod ends into a single shear mounting, you could snap that bolt or bend it pretty easily, especially being lower and in the path of rocks.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

I would like to do the drag link on top, however the trackbar mount isn’t high enough for that, so I’d have a good amount of bumpsteer. The tie rod is still about 4” higher than the JK stock setup, so I’m not worried about clearance, plus how it sits now makes it easier to mount a hydraulic ram. Otherwise the ram would have to mount under the tie rod and that would leave it vulnerable.

[@scrumdiddlyumptious73]

I have my tie rod in double sheer and the drag link mounted on top but I have noticed just as Ben mentioned the angle of the the drag link and track bar are not ideal and as such my steering feel suffers. While I dont really have a ton of bumpsteer or wonky handling I am going to change the the position of the steering linkage and see how it feels. But my main goal is to open up some room to be able to mount the ram up and out of the way and copying hiw Ben did this seems like the best way

[@sethmalcolm8247]

@@JKGearandGadgets Ah, I couldn't make out where your track bar mounted, makes sense. Nice work!!!

[@fogstain]

The high steer knuckles from Barnes are no longer offered with 2 holes on each side. Also the closest hole on the passenger knuckle is to far away from centerline of the spindle , causing you to lose some steering angle. The other thing I encountered is the frame side trackbar mount they give you will contact the pitman arm and draglink joint at full left steering, further limiting steering angle on that side. It was terrible. I suggest you save time by getting a nicer trackbar bracket like RPM offers . or even take a look at the TMR customs swap kit. I also wish i would have just bit the bullet and purchased some reid knuckles or had the top of mine machined to accept the WFO high steer arms. They will drill them where you can achieve full lock on your steering. I really hope to see some content re-addressing the setup . Its just not meant for a JKs stock throw at all.

[@craigversetti5700]

Well done Benjamin!!! Do agree with you on the option of Barns including the Aluminum for inside the dom tubing....

[@SingleTrak6]

Where have you been all my life. I can cancel Netflix now.

[@moneym9341]

awesome video

[@timk404]

@ 12:30 you said you wanted to protect the rod end and weld it off the front end. I hate to tell you but you had already way more damage than just the rod end. You had your ground on the wheel stud and had arced out your wheel bearings.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

I was talking about damaging the threads of the joint with weld spatter. Wheel bearings are perfectly fine, it was just a tack. Already have a few thousand miles on this setup so far. But yes, I wouldn’t recommend welding a bunch through a ground on the stud.

[@timk404]

It looks more like 3 or 4 tacks on 2 ends so 6-8 tacks. Yes welding more has a greater risk of doing more damage but tacks are all it takes to do some. I dont really care what you do but I want to make sure anyone watching you and following your lead know that you NEVER stick a ground anywhere where the path of current has to travel though a bearing, that is a rule and it has no exceptions, ever. Sure, you have a couple thousand miles on them after doing it. Possibly god smiled on you and you ended up with no damage, more likely it did arc a little and damage was minimal and will only show up down the road. At any rate, anyone watching this, dont be dumb and always put your ground directly on the piece you are welding.

[@djtoo7]

Ok so has it made any difference with the aluminum rod inside???

[@davidriggins1591]

Maybe jumping ahead but wondering what wheel backspace you will get by with...I have same high steer kit

[@JKGearandGadgets]

4.50” or less. I went with 4.25”

[@wvjeepguy8178]

How are those drag link heims holding up with that much angle on them? Looks like the axle end will bind up when the passenger side is drooped.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

No issues, with 12.3” travel shocks I’m not having any issues with the heims binding

[@wvjeepguy8178]

@@JKGearandGadgets Thanks for the reply. I'm getting ready to go to 37's on my 2 door jk and trying to decide whether to build up my rear 44 (front 44 is already built up) or just go with tons. I had superduty tons under my TJ that I sold, so been there, done that, but the JK is my daily driver while the TJ was just an off-road rig. I know people say the JK 44's can be built to handle 37s, but here in West Virginia, even the rock trails are muddy and we have to have a lot of wheel speed to get over things.

[@goodnoughspage2555]

Just curious, but are you concerned with dissimilar metal corrosion on ur steering link?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Since it will never be removed from each other I don’t have any worries

[@scrumdiddlyumptious73]

In his case it shouldn't be a concern but in my case where I used steel heims into threaded aluminum links I researched and found a product called TefGel which is made for exactly this. It acts as an antiseize compound while also guarding against dissimilar metal corrosion. Its expensive stuff but I also used it on all 128 bolts on my Beadlocks which probably wasn't necessary since they are steel bolts into steel inserts but with the exposure to dirt and junk I wanted to make sure those bolts would come out when needed.

[@Gunmetalbluejeeptjs]

Robert Saxton what about a bunch of grease , that’s what I did with my aluminum lower control arms ?

[@scrumdiddlyumptious73]

@@Gunmetalbluejeeptjs where did you apply the grease? Its pretty well known that grease can actually cause more damage than protection due to dust and dirt sticking to the grease and cause accelerated wear from the grit digging into the surface of the joints or areas of movement. Ideally you only want to apply grease to specific areas that are meant for it.

[@Gunmetalbluejeeptjs]

Robert Saxton I unthreaded the bushing side out of the control arm and put it on the threads and re threaded it , think that will ruin it

[@docniemo4713]

How’s the aluminum add in doing?

[@f4safety]

Good video - What model is your welder? I didn’t see any gas.

[@dokasamurp9826]

"Just run up and down and all the way around until you can slide it inside..." nice

[@jessename7849]

Now you know how to get Cassie 😉🤫😅

[@danieldodd2264]

Did you keep the tie rod under the knuckle? And how did the aluminum work out?

[@leonelceballos3709]

Do they make those knuckles for Dana 30, I have rock jocks Dana 60 but they use Dana 30 knuckles

[@ludakris9r]

I think melting some aluminum and pouring in would be faster and it would have a tighter fit.

[@theezeelife292]

Looking back, was putting the aluminim in the tubing worth it or was it a waste of time and money? Has it helped or hindered anything? Debating on doing the same on my rig in the near future.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Man it’s so hard to tell, I eventually went full aluminum steering. I think it helped some, but it still eventually bent.

[@valrodrigues4203]

2011 95000 km stalled once with no dash lights that came on .had the plugs changed. Cleaned throttle body but when I drive it hesitates like it is going to staĺling again it's a 3.8

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Did you make sure to check the spark plug gaps? Clean your intake and sensors. I would suggest looking online for suggestions, there are probably some good forums that have stalling tips and tricks

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Possibly bad gas. Get a gas/water treatment additive

[@andrewjackson5437]

Barnes hit that kit with aluminium rods

[@mikem5831]

Great video, as always. been thinking about upgrading mine when I put new axles in. If I ever get off my ass and back in the garage. lol I know this isn't a video on setting toe and it should not matter for what you were doing but where you were measuring will be way off when you put your tires on. Will be too far toed in. You should have plenty of threads though to handle it because of how few threads you left out on the joints. Need to catch up on the other axle videos you have. #nosponsors :)

[@mikem5831]

I was also gonna ask. What is VAs "opinion" on welded steering? I know it will depend on whichever ward of the state you select to approve whether your vehicle is safe to be on state roads but as far as I know, VA doesn't really care.

[@buildingusa9604]

Amazing video my friend but you know that you were using 2 different sizes of wood 🪵 thickness 🤔

[@jasontroudt5614]

Have you researched backspacing on your wheels with the Superduty front axle? I'm curious what will fit with the Barnes weld on steering arms and 17" wheels.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

4.5” backspacing is the maximum. I’ll be running 4.25”

[@hivoltagedriver]

I was wondering about that as well.

[@lewy1]

Are you worried about galvanic corrosion with the aluminum inside of the steel?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

In about 10 years yeah, but most tie rods won’t last that long anyways

[@lewy1]

After watching the rest of the video the weld might keep any moisture out.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

I think a natural reaction will still occur. But it will take a long time for it to do any damage at all.

[@christhompson2]

Appreciate the video. I’m getting ready to start on my one tons. Would it be possible to put the drag link on top and the tie rod in between the arms?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Yes, but at that angle the trackbar and drag link might be off.

[@christhompson2]

JK Gear and Gadgets ahhh! Ok. Thanks. Ordered my ox lockers and gears today. These videos have definitely inspired me to pull the trigger

[@kswyg001]

Why wouldn't you keep the aluminum tie rod and drag link for the 60 axle? It was great for your 44 and as you said, you bent the steel rods in the past. I bent the Ruff Stuff and moved to the DoestchTech (Barnes4wd aluminum equivalent, but available).

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Completely different lengths. I’m hoping with the inside full of aluminum it will be less likely to bend

[@rcmike09]

I think he was asking why didnt you just go with aluminum steering

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Michael Sullivan price. The only “kit” For these axles is close to 1.2K. And if I wanted to do it myself I would have to buy the aluminum ($200-300), buy the Heim joints etc, and then have a machine shop tap the aluminum threads ($100-200). I would love to go aluminum, however it adds up fast when doing custom stuff.

[@bruce-bruce7975]

Barnes you need to include the aluminum rod in your inventory or your options!!!👍👍

[@jeremy8715]

Is there a benefit to going with the weld on high steer vs a high steer knuckle?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Honestly it comes down to price. A full high steer knuckle setup is nice, but pricier

[@jimmycoffey8506]

Did you install that truss on axle or is it stock

[@millstonejeepworx]

Hey Ben, finally ordered my steering kit for my JK 1 ton swap. Barnes just got them back in stock. Couple of questions. How long of bolts do you need for the Draglink at the knuckle and pitman arm? I assume the pitman arm needs to be drilled out to 3/4"? Thanks, great video. Have watched it many times. as always very informative.

[@derJackistweg]

galvanic corrosion from inside the tube.... I don´t know.

[@Unknown-wc1hi]

Dissimilar corrosion would occur. Aluminum inside the DOM

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Yeah, might see an issue in like 15 years lol

[@Unknown-wc1hi]

@@JKGearandGadgets Lol. Let me know if it happens any quicker ;)

[@brettharrison5418]

What ended up bring your length for the drag link?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

42.5” overall from bolt hole to bolt hole.

[@BHank69]

Why not put the drag link on the top and the tie rod in the middle? This would decrease the angle for the drag link and make the tie rod sit higher and it also wouldn't need as many spacers and it would actually be stronger with less shear.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

The pitman arm would hit the drag link unless I limited my uptravel a bunch. This setup has been working pretty well over the past 3 years.

[@l84jk31]

Now that you have drive it for a while how is it? Any bump steer or excessive road noise?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

No issues at all!

[@Geerice]

Any concern of galvanic corrosion?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Over years and years I’m sure it will happen. But in a realistic view it will last years. Sure, in 10 years I’ll probably have to replace it, but what tie rod lasts that long anyways lol.

[@darrinstone49]

Who told you that aluminum stuffed inside will strengthen your tube? Didn't the kit come with chrome Molly tube?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

It worked well and took some good hits. It’s not chromoly, it’s just DOM tubing.

[@MARC11B]

Awesome man, those tons gonna be on for Jeep beach in 2 weeks?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

No idea yet 😬😬😬

[@MARC11B]

@@JKGearandGadgets 😮 Get busy!

[@nikjazbas]

Ben- any differences between the Barnes, Motobilt, vs Artec Super60 bracket kits you're aware of? Also, not sure if I missed it but did you do a video regarding swapping the tone rings on the one tons yet? What about going with a Wilwood BBK?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

They all have quite a few differences. I went with Barnes because they are easy to install and the best price, plus free shipping. And haven’t done the video on the tone rings yet, Dodge Ram sensors up front, 60 tooth rings on rear hubs, have a machine shop turn the hub and press them on. And no need for a BBK on these axles

[@djtoo7]

Ok it’s been some time did it work??

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Steering setup has worked great. Aluminum inside helped some, but after some really big hits out in Johnston valley it bent. I’m now running the Barnes4WD aluminum setup made for this swap. Jkgear code is still active, and the aluminum setup is really nice.

[@fogstain]

The high steer knuckles from Barnes are no longer offered with 2 holes on each side. Also the closest hole on the passenger knuckle is to far away from centerline of the spindle , causing you to lose some steering angle. The other thing I encountered is the frame side trackbar mount they give you will contact the pitman arm and draglink joint at full left steering, further limiting steering angle on that side. It was terrible. I suggest you save time by getting a nicer trackbar bracket like RPM offers . or even take a look at the TMR customs swap kit. I also wish i would have just bit the bullet and purchased some reid knuckles or had the top of mine machined to accept the WFO high steer arms. They will drill them where you can achieve full lock on your steering.

[@adamfowles1060]

Looking great, not sure if you already stated but about how much did the super duty axle and all the new parts set you back? I'm considering doing my own(without welding) but might buy a crate... axle..

[@JKGearandGadgets]

I will be adding everything up and talking about cost here in a few videos!

[@GammaRays134]

I am waiting on the galvanic corrosion to lock that aluminum bar in there forever

[@JKGearandGadgets]

I mean... it never has to come out lol. Plus with the welded bungs it can never come out unless it’s cut apart

[@bruce-bruce7975]

So the aluminum is four feet long. How long are your DOM bars?

[@valrodrigues4203]

Does cam sensors have anything to do with it

[@JKGearandGadgets]

You would get a check engine light is that was the case

[@bhanson82]

Excuse me if I missed it but did you end up moving your tie rod up on your barnes high steer or did you leave it low?

[@Mrlatham1]

so after about a year, do you feel the aluminum inside helps any at all ? I just started my d60/14b build last weekend and I am following what you done pretty closely. Is there anything you would've done different that you didnt know then but do now ?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

It helped, but still can bend on some very hard hits

[@micahhaislett3792]

How much clearance do you have for your diff cover? I ordered the same Barnes steering kit for my d60. Also, did you remove the ball joints before welding them to the knuckle?

[@JKGearandGadgets]

I have plenty of clearance, a lot of diff covers are too bulky though. I’m waiting for Barnes to release their new low profile diff cover. I did not remove the BJs, and they are still fine so far.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

I have a video of the high steering arms if that’s what your asking about.

[@micahhaislett3792]

JK Gear and Gadgets yea I must have missed it. I’ve watched several of them multiple times. I’m doing d60 but used the sterling 10.5 rather than 14b. I have a tj though so different beast

[@xuv5607]

Plug weld those bungs brother.

[@joshuabrown5333]

Aren't you worried about causing galvanic corrosion???

[@JKGearandGadgets]

In about 10 years or so yeah, but a normal tie rod wouldn’t even last that long.

[@valrodrigues4203]

Ever had stalling problems with your jeep

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Not this Jeep , but go into more details about your issue

[@gwkdad]

Ha, you lost me when you used warped treated lumber to set initial toe-in. Angle or square tubing...

[@FirstGendodgegarage]

Aluminum inside of steel , corrosion

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Yeah if you plan on keeping the same tie rod on an off-road rig for 20 years lol. Plenty of other things to worry about.

[@FirstGendodgegarage]

@@JKGearandGadgets on my channel I’m actually building a Dana 60 chassis and I’m looking for a good website to buy those crossover arms you’ve got on the axle

[@adamswaz4878]

It's not you, the driver side hole is not completely straight in the knuckle lie the passenger side is. I thought the same thing

[@chrispoirier384]

Set up a tube with aluminum and use a press to see how it goes before you start making recommendations. I do not think it will help you enough to warrant adding it.

[@mecanicomecanico5444]

19:46 💗❤

[@OCo16]

i see that desert Camo assault pack you a vet?

[@JamesValentineBaja1000]

Welders: Anyone curious how he put in the Root, with a AL rod in there????

[@JKGearandGadgets]

The aluminum rod is about 2” shorter than the steel

[@farmyardfab]

2 problems 1 your tie rod needs to be double sheer not single sheer 2 aluminum and steel in contact with each other white rusts terribly.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

So far it’s held up fine in single sheer (yes I know it’s not ideal), but so far it’s tackled a good amount of trails across the country with no issues

[@thatmar1neguy]

Definitely include aluminum BARNS

[@whodatisful]

Gotta put Ford parts in them jeeps to make them even remotely reliable

[@deeremeyer1749]

So do you have right handed AND left handed "Heim joints"? You have zero adjustability "in situ" if you don't because RH threads at both ends of a rod "cancel out" each other and you can neither lengthen or shorten the rod without unhooking one end and screwing the joint on that end in or out OR screwing the rod onto or off of the "Heim joint" on the other end. And bolts are not designed for "shear forces" in two directions. ACTUAL TIE ROD ENDS ARE GREASED, SEALED, FORGED AND HAVE AN 11-DEGREE ENGINEER TAPER SO THEY WEDGE INTO TAPERED BORES REAMED - NOT DRILLED - INTO "CAST STEEL" OR "NODULAR IRON" FOR A BUNCH OF REASONS. AND IF YOU THINK "1-TON AXLES" - THAT "DANA 60" IS NOT A "REAL" D60 FRONT OUT OF A REAL 1-TON TRUCK - ARE AN "UPGRADE" TO/OF A 1/4-TON - AT BEST - JEEP AND WILL IMPROVE "PERFORMANCE" ON THE "TRAIL" PERIOD MUCH LESS WITH THAT CLUSTERFUCK DEATHTRAP OF A DIY "STEERING SYSTEM" YOU'RE GOING TO BE MIGHTY DISAPPOINTED WHEN THAT "BUILD" IS "FINISHED". OF COURSE LIKE 95% OF BIG KZbin "BUILDS" BY "DIYERS" MAKING "EDUCATIONAL" CONTENT THAT IS DEFINITELY "EDUCATIONAL" BUT NOT EQUALLY AND IDENTICALLY TO ALL VIEWERS THAT "BUILD" IS PROBABLY 20% DONE WITH 200% TO GO.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

Yes they are left hand on one side and rh on the other. This is an old video, jeep is still running great years after this video. And many projects completed since, koh build included. Thanks for watching

[@ArialStacy]

LOL!! Alloy rod insert. pointless in so many ways. To make a tube stronger sleeve it with another tube and button wweld it in several places.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

It worked really well! In fact, a lot of ultra4 racers are doing this same thing in their steel links now. Thanks for watching!

[@dieviolent529]

You seriously couldnt use two pieces of flat aluminum or something besides an old scrap from a deck board and some other piece of wood. rough.

[@JKGearandGadgets]

No need to be all fancy... axles are under the Jeep now and the steering is spot on. It’s all about experience and doing stuff right. fancy tools and equipment help, but in the end there is no need to go spend $25 on aluminum when you can get the exact same outcome with using what you have. This ain’t my first rodeo lol