Building a 12V Battery & Solar System: Do's and Don'ts and All the Basics You Need to Know

#shtf #diy #diyproject #diyprojects #rvlife #rvliving #emergency #prepping
Once you understand the basics, it's easy to build your own 12V backup power system...or a small off-grid system for a remote cabin, workshop or shed. And while there are TONS of options for the various components, here are the ones I've had a good firsthand experience with that I used in the video:
2000 Inverter: amzn.to/3SpGP2W
30A Solar Charge Controller: amzn.to/3Uw1GnN (for a few bucks more, you can get the 40A version, which will give you access to more solar input capacity and faster battery charging)
Batteries: amzn.to/3SLTcb5
400W Solar Panels: amzn.to/4bCLEPl
200W Solar Panels: amzn.to/4blTo87
Cables: amzn.to/3uvlQnc
Breakers: amzn.to/49gxfGZ amzn.to/3I5YRCJ
Fuses: amzn.to/3SI6PYH amzn.to/3I5YZ5b
Bus Bars: amzn.to/49orDtx
Battery Disconnect Switch: amzn.to/3wUPd3v
What kinds of things can this setup run (and for how long)?? Check out this Google Spreadsheet: bit.ly/44udlVQ
As an Amazon Associate I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases when you use the link(s) above. This does not impact to the price you pay through Amazon in any way, but it might help the channel in some small way. Every little bit helps and we sincerely appreciate your support! :)

[@junkerzn7312]

I'll throw in some comments on the solar panel configuration and charge controllers too. The first is... don't use MC4 parallel adapters/combiners. #1 rule. Just avoid them entirely. The reason is two fold: (1) They are actually a fire hazard because most are cheaply made and can't handle the currents (even if your cables can). And (2) They create a fire hazard for the solar panels if one string shorts into another due to a defect or failure. You pretty much always want to use a solar combiner box when paralleling. These boxes have individual string fuses, a main breaker for convenience when working on the system, and a 2-pole(+GND) surge protector along with a landing for GROUND cabling. The boxes are also a convenient test point when checking arrays. (buy the appropriate fuse value for the string. Solar panels have a maximum fuse rating on their label... use that value and no larger). Of course, none of this matters if one is talking about tiny panels (75W or lower) since the currents are so low. But when working with 100W panels or higher in parallel, use a combiner box. Keep the trunk cabling amperages at 20A or lower when using 10 AWG cabling. -- That brings us to parallel vs series (and other topologies). Well, series is universally better and doubly so if you were thinking of going parallel without a combiner box. You can still avoid the combiner box by going series instead. The losses are far, far lower with series panel configurations. The rule of thumb is that the sum of the labeled VOC for the panels must be 20% below the maximum input voltage of the charge controller. For a 100V charge controller that means the VOC cannot sum to more than 80V. So 3 small (100W or 200W) panels in series, or 2 residential panels in series, is the limit if you have a 100V charge controller. The reason for this rule is that the panel VOC can increase past its labeling in cold weather or in very bright conditions. -- Paralleling is still useful to reduce the number of charge controllers needed, but it needs to be done with a combiner box. I have a bunch of 3s3p configurations going into Victron 100/20's myself. Though due to the 20% rule I can't go 4s with that charge controller. So the real sweet spot for small-scale series panel configurations is probably the Victron Smart Solar 150/35 charge controller. -- Over-paneling is useful in certain situations but keep in mind that over-paneling is a function of (A) using a 12V system voltage when you really should be using 24V or 48V instead. And (B) that you are still leaving energy on the table when you over-panel. So really you want to avoid over-paneling. You want to soak up as much energy as you can so if you are considering a system where over-paneling seems like a good idea... it isn't. It means you selected the wrong battery voltage. For example a single Victron 100/20 charge controller can handle 1000W of solar when connected to a 48V battery bank (20A @ 51.2V nominal, even a bit more). But that same charge controller in a 12V system can only handle 256W (20A @ 12.8V nominal). See the difference? So costs can drop drastically when going with higher battery voltages and as a bonus you don't have to leave solar energy sitting on the table from over-paneling. -Matt

[@MrSmieglitz]

@junkerzn7312 Thanks for that very lucid explanation. It addresses a couple questions I had queried about on different FB forums that were never really explained to my satisfaction.

[@Ms.Frankenbuilder]

Do you have pictures or a video of a build you have done?

[@YouLookinAtMe-Bro]

He has several videos on very basic and simple builds if you choose to diy. He also has very detailed reviews and tests on systems already built. He gave me the knowledge to build my own. I became almost obsessed with it because it was actually fun. Good luck!

[@Golfreak]

My first advice to building a 12v solar system is to forgo the 12v and do 24v. You'll thank me for it later. 24v is more efficient, runs cooler, thinner wires, more panels on the same mppt. I still have some 12v inverters that I don't know what to do with anymore. Even some will suggest to forgo 24v and do 48v but even as a beginner, definitely start with 24v.

[@junkerzn7312]

I'm one of those that would forgo 12V and 24V and go straight to 48V 🙂

[@mrmomb]

No way, all my equipment is twelve volts.

[@junkerzn7312]

@@mrmomb Depends what the equipment is and how much power it needs. Anything less than around 10A @ 12V and it's like a $20 DC-to-DC converter. Up to 100A @ 12V and people typically down-buffer the 48VDC to 12V through a DC-to-DC battery charger plus a 100Ah 12.8V buffer battery (also LiFePO4). Roughly $365 or so ($250 battery, $115 Victron Orion 48/12). More than 100A and you are one of the unlucky people who bought into big-ticket high-amperage 12V DC appliances, which leaves you kinda stuck. Well, you can always go with more buffer battery in parallel, but the solution gets more expensive. For most people though it's usually just things like a fridge, pop-out motors, water pump, toilet macerater, stuff like that where a modest buffer battery will do the job handily. -Matt

[@daveyork952]

I think this is a dumb comment. If you are running a bunch of stuff on 12 volt and you own 12 volt appliances you would not simply switch to 24v. You make my point for me when you say "you have a bunch of 12v inverters" ... So you did not start with 24v. If we could go back in time maybe you could convince us all in this youtube comment that an industry and indeed an entire world should not use 12v and the vehicle should be 24 volt from the factory. Let's pretend 12v never existed at all. Except it did and you can't go back and change the past. So until I can go to a car leadership and... (as an idiot) ...buy a car that works on a 24v system... this is a dumb comment.

[@junkerzn7312]

​@@daveyork952 I think you would have a better understanding if you actually had experience working with different voltages. Which you clearly do not. There is enough commentary, however, for you to get an idea of what the advantages are going 24V or 48V. They are substantial. Very, very substantial. Particularly in this day and age where many RV and Trailer owners (and boat owners and off-grid homesteaders) want to have all the modern conveniences without limitation. 12V becomes a huge shackle.

[@andrewinaustintx]

Good point with regards to over paneling, especially during the winter months. My addition to this set up would be a shunt on the battery bank's negative output terminal for use with a state of charge monitor that I can glance at without opening an app.

[@mpgrenda]

Very complete and easy to understand explanation of this system. Excellent!

[@sparkmiester]

This is easily one of the better beginner DIY videos I have seen - including the parts list and cable size data Many thanks sir.

[@EpiclyReckless]

This is exactly how i am planning on powering my shed in the backyard. Great job. Thanks for the video

[@Bamabrute85]

I'll most definitely never build one of these but I'm still going to watch the video. And comment for the algorithm 😉

[@GratefulWarriorMom]

And I'll "like" your comment to help out.!!

[@robbypro3370]

I was an electrician and car mechanic, very good info. You explained it correctly. I am new to solar systems for my travel trailer. One thing to remember is if you're hooking up your inverter to your whole RV to turn off your shore power converter/ charger or it will create a loop. I know you didn't cover that because it was not relevant in your video. Just something that people overlook. Thanks

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

yeah excellent point. That would be good way to burn-up your inverter!

[@jerryleopold778]

Greatly appreciated! Very well done! Thank you! 😁👍

[@PWoods-cd6tk]

Great video. You did one about a year ago, but it's always good to go back for new viewers and we change things up a little as we get more experience. I love the 40 AMP Bouge RV controller because of the versatility.

[@jerrybandy3827]

Your video has given me several ideas. I have two new LONGi 355W panels and was thinking of putting them in series but now I'm thinking about parallel. My charge controller is 60A and can output multiple voltages (12-48). It's just a hobby now but fun to look at the options. I definitely see how this could get addictive.

[@georgecothran4760]

I had 6 305 watt panels so 1830 max total, and one day when the sun was almost directly on them I was getting a little over 2000 watts.

[@leetaves9143]

started out with harbor freight 6 years a go, now in over my head going from 12v panels to 24 with 12v batterys i have one 48v panel system going to 24v batterys 24v inverter 5000w live hurricane country having fun you have good info

[@cdonuts7335]

The basics definitely gets more views! No one does it better than David! Explorer life posted today he has found he's channel going backwards by straying too far from he's initial concept and subscribers interests and now is redirecting back to basics! All we need now is Prowse to reset! And everything in the off-grid world will be back to full capacity!

[@GratefulWarriorMom]

He did. I think he realized that too. Got too big and strayed away from the viewers that made them popular. I guess they figured that the audience was growing along with them, when really it was just picking up new ones that needed handholding like the rest of us.

[@randallgilliam3818]

Very well done! Great beginner information.

[@Ms.Frankenbuilder]

Nice build, good video. One thing I missed on my video build was fusing the batteries.

[@daniellapain1576]

Around 12:30 in the video you point out that you have to set parameters to automatically shutoff the battery. There is a dummy proof way for all systems to achieve the same results and it’s an analog method. Simply use Capacitors. Using the fact that the path of least resistance would be a capacitor at 100f 16v 7ah 7KW per second or 2W per hour. It would use the solar power before your system would touch your battery bank. You could also do a capacitor bank of 1000f 16v 70ah 70KW per second or 20w per hour. I would recommend never touching the terminals and setting up a switch to dump the power to resistors before working with it. Those capacitors go roughly for $100 each.

[@Blackhorseveteran]

New sub...Great tutorial. Looking to install same system in small cabin.

[@clovenbeast5183]

I like eco-worthy for their solar and their batteries. CNSWIPOWER inverter as well. Pretty cheap but they seem to be working with this guy who actively takes them apart and shows us.

[@jeffreyjacobs6072]

Thanks for time 🤠

[@wrxs1781]

Good informative video, the batteries with the mounting tabs on the case is a good option.

[@paultech9385]

Wow, super helpful video. Could you do a video on a 24v setup using DC stabilizers, DC 24 to 12V step down along with fuse or breaker components. Videos on this are sparse.

[@ventsislavfilipov6674]

Subscribed!!! Great content👍👍

[@corcorandm]

Very bouge, nice diy backup example!

[@GratefulWarriorMom]

Hi, I bought the vtoman jump 1000 after watching your review. I got a great deal for only $450! But, I should have paid more attention to the fact thatvit can only take 200w at a time. Uggg. Oh well. I have two ridged 100w panels and a portable 100w. I was thinking of using it together to over panel it, but wasn't sure if it was too much.

[@nekopearce8870]

Your videos are so informative, I really do enjoy watching them as a beginner. I have learned so much from the videos you have created. Any advice you offer? Do you have a page where i can ask questions?

[@chrisricci1311]

I like your setup. I am using solar to power a trailer for a workshop. What is the diagram of wiring? I have purchased all the items you have connected. I am not understanding why you have 2 leads from each bus bar. I know one lead from positive goes to battery, but where does the other positive lead go to? Currently, my inverter is connected to the battery. Could you please provide more information on this?

[@SeanInAlaska]

I literally just needed this! lol... I used your links for everything, but the battery disconnect link does not work. Your videos are awesome!

[@stephanontario1027]

Thanks for sharing. Can you do a video on grounding your system, how important is it and does it depend on the size of your system. Is it more important to ground solar panels on the roof vs ground mount system.

[@stedyone1090]

Very nice 👌 👍

[@StevefromOhio1972]

Howdy David, Another nice set up. The main thing I guess is to use the right size wiring, bus bars, breakers and fuses for the system. Also to have the batteries wired up correctly so you don't fry the inverter, don't want 24v going into a 12v inverter. It's good to over panel, if you can wire the panels to meet the specs of the solar charger. Get more watts in the batteries in not so ideal conditions. BTW....is that a PowMr inverter I spied behind you and a 48v server rack battery? You holding out on us? LOL If that's the inverter that can take up to 500v, I can see larger panels in your future to go with the one 400 watt'r you already have. Look forward to see what you have in store for the future. Take care and enjoy these nice February days, Steve.

[@StevefromOhio1972]

You're teaching us too well, I think I even know what server rack battery that is behind you in the video. Is it made by Vatrer? If it is, that's a nice looking battery.

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

Very observant! Hahaha! The 48V content is coming soon! :)

[@david78212]

You need to do a video explaining what a charge controller really does. I want to do a system just like the way you have yours setup; 4 panels 2P2S setup because of the way I'll have to mount them on my boat with 2x 100ah batteries in parallel so I get 200ah and all I get is "it's going to be hard to get 12v solar panels that are any good" and as hard as I try, I can't seem to convince people that there really is no such thing as a 12v, 24v or 48v solar panel per se that what really matters is that your controller can handle the max that they put out and I get tons of "you don't know what you're talking about". Can you imagine if a solar panel was restricted to only putting out 12v, 24v or 48v just how inefficient they would be?

[@mjrootz]

OK SOME SAFETY TIPS: Always use heavy duty DC breakers at the positive battery terminals before the wires go anywhere else. Always use a heavy duty breaker between your inverter and your batteries. Always use a breaker between your solar panel and your solar charge controller.. These breakers should be rated for the max current that will be drawn though those devices.. Keep your cables as short as you can and use the proper size wire that is rated for or even higher than the current that will be drawn through those devices. Check "amperage capacity for wire" charts (online) to determine what gauge wire that is required for your system.. You would be surprised at the number of DYI people who do not know what they are doing and end up with inverter cables heating up like a toaster element. Keep it safe.. do the research, use correct and safe wiring to avoid issues and a possible fire. More importantly, if you don't know what you are doing.. FIND SOMEONE WHO DOES

[@johnsenesi9095]

Hello David I have been many Weeks looking into BougeRv for my rv setup Including the Cigs stick on 200 = 400 panel.and the 3000 wat. Inverter. we need to talk about SOLAR

[@junkerzn7312]

I am going to point out that a 2000W inverter and 200Ah @ 12V is already starting to push the boundaries of what you might want to build with 12V. The cables and amperages go into the stratosphere after that. I would go straight to 48V and call it a day. Everything is easier. The wires are much, much smaller. The same charge controllers can handle 4x the solar (if they are 12/24/48V capable charge controllers, such as a Victron 100/20 for example), and the amperages are 1/4 what you have to deal with at 12V. The only real issue is that the minimum solar going into a (buck only) charge controller is 3 small panels in series or two residential panels in series. Also... really gotta avoid those battery disconnect switches. They are fire hazards. No thermal trip, no arc suppression. No nothing in those switches. Lever-type breakers are usually also pretty poor. Better to use non-polarized 2-pole DC breakers instead (if not sure, always have the LINE side of the DC breaker on the battery side of the wiring since the battery is the only thing that can source an ARC big enough to worry about). Fusing is also always needed on anything that connects to the battery bus. Some devices (inverters and some charge controllers) have fuses built-in. But many do not. Including sensor wiring if you are using a shunt. And the battery bank itself has to be properly fused at the main positive terminal. In anycase, at 48V you can use 2 AWG battery cabling and 6 AWG inverter cabling @ 2000W (41A will be the max at 2000W). Or 4 AWG inverter cabling for 3000W. The charge controllers can use 10 AWG or 12 AWG without any issues. And the battery bus with 2 AWG cabling can handle roughly 5 kW without breaking a sweat.... 100A, which allows you to hang a LOT of stuff off of it. The smallest 48V battery you can get that is decent is 25Ah (equivalent to 12V @ 100Ah). Most 48V car-battery style batteries are 50Ah and the rack-mount types are typically 100Ah. 16s (51.2V nominal) is what you are looking for. Avoid 15s (48V nominal) batteries. I know, that can be a bit confusing. -Matt

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

Matt - 100% agree. In fact, I've got a 48V setup video coming in a couple of weeks, coincidently. :)

[@stevenseigneurie5073]

Another great video-1 question- the 8ga wire coming in from the solar panel array to a breaker, how do you calculate what size breaker to use? I see you have 25a or 63 a for your 800? or 400? system.

[@savingmoneyunapologetically]

Thank you for sharing! I am new to the solar power system, I am looking for a Basic DIY system for my elderly aunt during storm and hurricane season in Louisiana. Can you help suggest a few things please. She loves to watch tv and can't take a lot of cold or hot temps so a fan or tiny A/C unit her C-pap a coffee pot Thanks in advance for aby recommendations.

[@twloughlin]

If your aunt is elderly it might be best for her to get a portable power station than build one of these systems. Something like a Jackery or Bluetti - there are many other brands. David has solid reviews on many of these types of devices.

[@savingmoneyunapologetically]

@@twloughlin thanks

[@MarcFain]

In overcast conditions I would have expected twice the output power from the 800W array compared to the 400W panel. However the power was 444W/110W= 4 times greater. Seems to me panel efficiency is drastically different under overcast condition. Anyone know why the efficiency is so much better with the 800W panels? Actual results were Efficiency_800W=444W/800W=0.555=55.5% Efficiency_400W=110W/400W=0.275=27.5%

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

In this case, I would attribute the difference much more to variations on the cloud cover between comparisons. Taken on a completely sunny or completely overcast day, I'm confident the relative efficiency between both panel types would be pretty much the same.

[@larrybell1305]

I’m truly confused. You talked about over paneling, but staying within the ratings of the charge controller. How is this over paneling?

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

@larrybell1305 I probably should have taken a moment to actually describe better what Over-paneling is! It's definitely NOT exceeding thevmax voltage spec on the charge controller! That's very bad. But each charge controller will also have a max Watts spec...and that is dictated by the max Amp draw the controller will allow at max power point. So I can put 800W of solar on a controller that will max out at 400W, provided I never exceed the input VOLTAGE max spec. That is what over-paneling is.

[@Sylvan_dB]

You could also land cables from both batteries on your bus bars instead of paralleling at the batteries. Whatever works.

[@junkerzn7312]

One thing to note is that the battery bank has to be fused. Normally with up to 4 batteries in parallel you just cable them together, then through a single fuse on the main positive to the long cable going to the bus bar. If you have a second set of 4 batteries you do the same thing (two fuses total in that case). If you wire two batteries separately to the bus bar you have to decide where to put the fuses (plural), because you have to protect two sets of long cables on their way to the bus bar. This is not ideal. Another factor with battery cabling is deciding whether you want to have the batteries on quick disconnects. aka Anderson quick disconnects. which I highly recommend. In this case the purpose is to be able to rip-out by main force a battery that is failing. And usually in terms of the weight of the batteries, a person can only rip out two at a time. So if using Anderson quick disconnects you generally want to cable the batteries together in pairs, then put each pair on a quick disconnect. From there you can decide on the topology. Either connect one pair to its neighbor pair and then that pair fused and cabled to the battery bus. Or have each pair fused and cabled to the battery bus separately. All batteries should be in parallel, almost universally when it comes to lithium. Avoid series connections. Use the appropriate battery voltage for the system voltage desired and cable in parallel. -Matt

[@Sylvan_dB]

@@junkerzn7312 That's valid. Re. fuseing, I prefer MRBF (marine) and HABF terminal fuse blocks for their 58v voltage rating but more so their higher AIC is more suited to large or LiFePO4 batteries. They mount right to the battery terminal to protect the entire cable run.

[@Sylvan_dB]

@@junkerzn7312 oh, and the fuse at the battery terminal also protects against a fault in a battery. A cell short in lead acid or a BMS short in a lithium battery connected in parallel once experienced is something I don't want to see again. The lead acid bank was melting the 2/0 paralleling cables into the battery cases and the inverter dropping out was the first indication of a problem. Seems the smoke detector had died some time ago. The lithium failure was better contained but ruined the cells in one battery - impossible for me to tell what failed first. In the other battery the fets failed shorted instead of turning off. Then internal wiring heated up until it unsoldered itself. The 2/0 connecting the batteries in parallel started burning the insulation but is still in use. Again the inverter dropping off was the first indicator.

[@junkerzn7312]

@@Sylvan_dB Yes, I have a few MRBFs as well, I think they are a fine choice. I personally don't really like the way they jut out vertically from the battery terminal. I generally go with either monster fuses or ANL fuses and related in-line fuse holders. Being careful to get the higher voltage ratings and not the typical 32VDC fuses. The fuse holders are more in-line with the cabling which in-turn makes it easier to rip the batteries out by main force to the Anderson disconnect. For car/truck form-factor batteries, I don't fuse every single battery, but I do fuse at least in groups of four (paralleled batteries). I do see some utility in fusing every battery, it's a choice. But per-battery fuses don't really protect cabling a whole lot and you still need an additional main fuse on the bank to protect the cabling leaving the bank. So it kinda becomes a jumble if you have a lot of batteries. Once one gets into rack-mount batteries, it is basically one fuse per rack since the rack-mount batteries have their own individual breakers. Usually 6(ish) batteries per rack, depending. And at that point it almost has to be a T-class fuse for the interrupt rating (IR) due to the amperages involved. -Matt

[@jcvee15]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. How do you properly size the solar disconnect breaker for amps and volts? Is it based on the gauge of wire that runs from the panels to the charge controller? If so, what determines how many volts the breaker should be rated for? Thanks!

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

Yes, the wire gauge should always be sized to accommodate the max expected current load + about 20% as a buffer. The disconnect DC breaker should be 2-pole and should be sized to the cable max current to protect the cable.

[@marciomaia4020]

Great video. If I have 2 lifepo4 batteries connected in parallel with 30A max charging current each, can I charge them at 60A or is it still 30A max?

[@TheVikingSasquatch]

Great, informative video! Thinking also about wind solar hybrid system. Do you mess with that much?

[@jacobfreeman5054]

10:16 this is me doing my homework 😂

[@ravenstarfire8816]

Question.. I have 4x240 watt (second hand) panels and a 30A charger.. would it be safe for that amount of panels without it being over 30A? or should I just use 3x 240 watts? I got them used, they are probably 10 years old so im guessing the panels wont be running at full capacity. Im thinking on average i'll get 150-200 max out of these panels. I will only be using an 800 Watt Sine Wave inverter to power up my 350 watt computer.

[@ernieschatz3783]

You called it a "Solar System...." You really went there. 🙃That's some serious terra forming.

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

HAHAHA! Yeah...trust me...that DID occur to me! LOL Trying to capitalize on those Astronomy clicks. :P

[@evelindagarces]

thank you for the information just got a cargo trailer and it already had a solar system, but did not have a shut off for the 2 lithium batteries. with all the information it is very confusing. the panels have a shut off before the renogy mppt. want to rewire in a different part of trailer. I have a question how to disconnect as not to damage expensive equipment

[@tonylozano8574]

given either solar array and fair to perfect weather: how long (in hours) does it take to charge those batteries?

[@thetoolmat8632]

on my 12v system with 2x 100ah like this, I would like to add a 3rd battery... do i need to add a higher fuse than a 200A at the + battery cable ? -- or should I fuse each + terminal on the batteries, and if so, what size?

[@theunsoupharak7850]

I want to learn how install or to know what I need for complete install

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

This should get you started: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3PKfmOGjLWdkLc

[@lukehereiam9188]

Question. I just cannot figure this out. Charge controller says 450 watt max. 100v solar imput max and 30amp max Does this mean that I cannot have more than 4 100w panels in total regardless of series or parallel. Does the max amps refer to how much can leave the charge controller and go into battery?

[@GeorgeShook-su8fs]

Arnett system that you got set up right there that runs off of solar. I do have a question if you took a 12-volt motor to run a 12-volt generator to charge your batteries through a 12-volt that would charge your batteries like you do on a 12-volt system on your car

[@quickquote1568]

That Bouge inverter is not UL-458 listed and for safety reasons, should not be installed in a mobile application like an RV.

[@paulvictor9368]

If you put a lot of solar on and the sun comes out, does the MPPT controller simply use the maximum it can handle, or would you damage something?

[@kennethwilson8633]

So I saw it ask but no answer if you over panel and all of the sudden get great condition for changing what happens when the controller gets too many watts??? Will it overheat??? Will it burn out???

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

As long as you're not exceeding the rated voltage max, you're ok. Remember that power (W) is just the product of voltage x current....and since the charge controller limits how much current it pulls, all you need to worry about is the voltage.

[@stanpickersgill75]

Currently updating my wifi g in caravan, have 2x140agm batteries going to cut off switch and pos busbar and neg to victron shunt then neg busbar. Using 2awg cable from batteries my question is would a 100amp fuse be okay between battery and cutoff switch. Plus I only have a draw of app30amps in total from lights ,pump and small extras in caravan. Also no inverter . Thank you.

[@caroleemoreno8086]

Do you know if that BougeRV inverter’s capacitors stay charged when inverter power switch is off for a few days? As long as your battery disconnect switch stays on obviously.

[@ntechsolutions1071]

Sir,I want to connect Noark 2 pole circuit breaker between charge controller and battery but I'm confuse about direction.Upside of a breaker is a power source and downside is a load so do I connect upside power source(cables to battery) and downside load(cables to charge controller), + cable on a left side, - cable on a right side?

[@Ekanselter]

Great information. How far can a person go on over-paneling? Is there any risk to the SCC?

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

No risk as long as you don't exceed the max DC input voltage spec. The only downside to just throwing a ton of extra solar at it is that while you'll be able to max out the input watts on the PPS, you will undoubtedly be leaving a lot of unused solar potential on the table. So it's a cost-benefit balancing act.

[@shelley131]

Wonder presentation as always. I'm thinking of doing something similar to what you have, would it be okay to use a higher amp solar charge controller than the 30A you are using?

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

Absolutely. Just make sure that you're not exceeding the charge rate recommended for your batteries. .2C is often the recommended rate so a 200Ah battery or battery bank should be optimally charged at 40A. You CAN charge at higher rates but doing so regularly can shorten the service life of your batteries. :)

[@markronck3415]

I have seen where people have had four 100A batteries in parallel and all connect to the bus bars directly. Wires were all the same length and connect straight to the buss buss bars. Four Red, four black to them. What are your thoughts here?

[@junkerzn7312]

You can do this but consider the fusing. For a small system you are either connecting (e.g.) four unfused batteries to the bus-bar with potentially long cables, and then you have a main-fuse straddling the battery bus-bar and your distribution bus-bar. Or you are individually fusing each battery in addition to having a main-fuse straddling two bus-bars. Neither is really ideal. Fuses are there to protect cables, so the location of the fuses matter. But having too many fuses can also create a mess. For car/truck form-factor batteries it is far more typical to do the paralleling locally between the batteries (say in sets of four) and then have a single main fuse on the main positive prior to the potentially long cable going from the battery bank to the distribution bus-bar. The main negative would be cabled to the other side of the battery bank. That way all the full-loop current paths are approximately the same length. In professional rack-mount systems the batteries go straight to the bus-bars built into the rack itself. But those bus-bars are literally 6 inches away from all the battery terminals and the individual batteries already have built-in breakers. So no mess in that case. You can hang the main fuse off the bus-bar. -Matt

[@tyfitzpatrick3606]

Hi, what is the name of your Amazon store?

[@dheller777]

The breaker your wire from the charge controller has two connections. One says battery and the other says load. Do you connect the charge controller to the battery marked side of the breaker and the other side that says load to your positive bus bar?

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

If you're talking about that little lever-breaker, it doesn't really matter which side is connected where. You just need it to sit between the positive bus bar and the positive battery terminal on the charge controller.

[@MSWcryptoworker]

I’m looking through all your videos playlists etc. CANNOT FIND any flexible solar panels. Hope u do some. I’m installing on an suv

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmOqZ32ObZqMoac I've only reviewed one...this a 100W flexible fiberglass panel.

[@MSWcryptoworker]

I hope u do more because I’ve seen on eBay some 13-14 inch wide flexiable solar panels but the sellers not trustworthy.

[@jimmylivrieri7525]

How many batteries can I add to a battery bank? I have 20. 100 amp hour batteries.

[@jesusbravo4469]

I have a 12v 5kw inverter. What size wire should I use. Can I parallel two wires to handle the current draw?

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

Wow! You don't see a lot of 12V 5KW inverters...because the wire size can really get out of hand. At 12V system voltage, the full 5000W output is going to need upwards of 420A. So not only do you need MONSTER cables to the battery bank, you also need a battery configuration that can handle that kind of current as well. You can double-up on the cable, but that'd still be 2 very heavy gauge cables on each terminal...like 3/0 AWG. If you can reliably expect to use less than 5000W, you could go smaller gauge and then take great care to appropriately fuse the positive side of the battery connection to protect the cable gauge you actually use. This is why you're more likely to see 48V inverters in that 5000W output class...much less expensive to cable.

[@jesusbravo4469]

@ReeWrayOutdoors can you please help me out. I'm trying to power an ac unit and some power tools for a small workshop I have out back. I'm going to invest in a 48v 5kw inverter. Can you help me out with my setup? I have 4 12.8v 280ah eco-worthy lifepo4 batteries, 6 200w solar panels and a 100a mppt charge controller. Is the charge controller too big? Is my battery capacity and solar input high enough. I appreciate your help. Thanks in advance.

[@GhostNinjaTactical]

Hi I have 1000 watt inverter and I’m using a DieHard Marine Starting Battery: 27M Group Size, 800 CCA, 1000 CA, 182 Minute Reserve Capacity, will this battery be okay? I’m planning on using it in my suv for when I go camping. Just to heat up water and other small jobs.

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

You should be ok, assuming your battery is 12V. But also be aware if it's sealed lead-acid (SLA) chemistry, you typically don't want to discharge much below 50% or you will much more quickly degrade the battery capacity over time.

[@GhostNinjaTactical]

@@ReeWrayOutdoors thanks! Great content btw!

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

@GhostNinjaTactical thank you sir! Sincerely appreciate the kind words!

[@truthalonetriumphs6572]

This comment is not sponsored by Bouge RV.

[@mikealderton4323]

I want to build this same system, but add a 3rd battery. Should I make any changes regards to wire gauges? What a kit fuse size that be connected to the battery? Thanks

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

Assuming a 2000W inverter you'd want to use no less than 1/0 awg battery cable and 2/0 would be best. The fuse you use should ve sized to protect the wire you're using. If 2/0 awg, I'd go with a 200A fuse. If you go with 1/0 awg, you'd want something like a 150A fuse.

[@mikealderton4323]

Thank you. Would you recommend fusing the positive terminals on all 3 batteries?

[@pointdujour1983]

What is the name of the app to use to control the watts and voltage

[@vinmeg69]

The link for the Battery Disconnect Switch does not work.

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

yeah...it was bad cut-n-paste on my part. :P Fixed...

[@joewoodchuck3824]

To me this is the best way to start solar energy. Start small. It's always expandable and reconfigurable. I rather dislike the humungous systems tied into the power grid. Yeah, it makes a certain amount of sense if you truly need that level capacity. But, it's costly and complicated with the extra equipment needed. Give me affordable and modest beginnings any day of the week. You can always upgrade next month or the month after.

[@fellpower]

All that nice "tips", but u build things, that can get hot, on wood - yep....

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

Yeah, that is a fair point. The only reason I'm using wood is that I swap out components all the time for testing and so I need something to mount it on that can handle constant reconfiguration. It might be that I could still getaway with cement board...and that WOULD be a more appropriate choice!

[@LarryRichelli]

Step one on building a efficient solar system = 48V!

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

Very true! 48V topic coming in a week or 2, coincidentally! :)

[@gimssanmeptraining2479]

how can I get the excel sheet

[@ReeWrayOutdoors]

Oop!! Seems I forgot to add that to the video description! (now fixed). But here's the spreadsheet link: bit.ly/44udlVQ Thanks for letting me know!

[@kenhart3839]

out of focus.