BUILDING A 15-INCH FIELD DRUM, Part 2

[@MichaelScottPerkins]

I've finally done it! I got a big board of sapele, went to the stave calculator you suggested, and have gotten started making my first stave snare! Your videos have been absolutely fundamental to me doing this, so I really appreciate it man! I have one question that has been on my mind. I plan on following your video on making wooden hoops too. For toms, and certainly for a kick, wooden hoops not only do not present a problem in my mind, they in fact, seem like they may even be better than metal. But for a snare... I do a fair amount of rim shots etc. I'm no Dave Grohl / Animal from the Muppets on a drum kit, meaning, I don't just rare back and blast away. But... I do rack up some pretty stout rim shots, and I was wondering... have you ever seen where someone too a wooden hoop, and used a thin router bit to cut a shallow 1/4" groove in the top hoop, and use one of those 3-wheels and a crank metal benders to bend some mild steel flat bar into a ~14" and epoxy a little metal "sticky-up" rim, just so when you do a rim shot, you aren't wearing away at maple. Thoughts?

[@JosephCenter]

Awesome! I would love to hear how the drum turns out! Regarding hoops: I've learned a lot since making that set of hoops over a year ago now. I've also made another (which was better) for the djembe. First, I've never heard of a metal insert to take the brunt of the rimshots. Sounds like a cool idea, but I don't think it's necessary. Make your hoops of hard maple or some other wood harder than your drum sticks (which are usually hickory) and you'll be fine. On the hoops, though, I would recommend 2 things: go three thin plies, rather than two thicker plies, and reinforce the end-grain joints with splines or dowels. I don't know how those hoops are doing on the snare drum, because I sold and have never heard anything back from the buyer. On the djembe, which I kept for myself, the is some de-lamination where I glue end-grain to end-grain. When I get some time (so probably never), I'll go back and reinforce those joints. Also, I should have used three plies.

[@MichaelScottPerkins]

@@JosephCenter So funny that you say that about the 3 thinner plys rather than 2 thicker. I thought that exact same thing while you were making it. I have zero experience with making drum hoops, but I have decades of experience with plywood. Ha ha ha. And I've always known that the baltic birch stuff with 18 thinner layers is much more stable than the Home Depot stuff that is more like 6 thicker plys. I was also thinking that I would vary the grain direction. Meaning: If layer one is made up of 8 segments, 2" wide, cut 22.5 degree angles, and glued up end-grain to end-grain... then I'd make layer 2 out of 25 segments, 2.04" wide, cut at 7.2 degrees, glued-up long-grain to long-grain. Then layer 3 would be just like layer 1, but turned so that the glue joints of layers 1 and 3 are not directly above/below one another. That would give you glue surface for days, and each layer would be locking in the adjacent layers. Also, it would be more apt to stay flat since the grain directions cross. I'm glad you said what you said about the metal hoop insert idea. That saves me all that trouble. I do have two more question for you though, if you don't mind. For the drum I am building now, the boards I have to work with are around .75" thick, and 2.65" wide. For a 14" snare, that works out to 18 staves ripped at a 10 degree angle. The shell will have a "Rounded thickness" of .526". That seems to me to be plenty thick enough, right? I notice that you leave 1 - 1.5" of the tops and bottom edges of your shells thicker. Then you route out the middle part thinner. I've heard you say to 1/4" But I am not sure. Can you tell me more about exactly how thick you leave the top and bottom edges of your shells (prior to routing a bearing edge), and how thin you take the inner part of each shell? I'm sure that this can vary for wood species, and for what "tone" one is going for. I've heard older vintage drums have thinner shells... but anyway... I don't expect you to pen a technical manual, so just let me know your ballpark.

[@CJCbassman09]

@@MichaelScottPerkinsHey there! As someone who plays a whole lot of rope drums, there are metal rim guards! usually the hoop is routed ever so slightly, the metal guard is then attached to the hoop with a couple of short screws.

[@miguelguerrero3901]

Glad you're back

[@round69]

Beautiful,.. the Moment when you start oiling and it starts to smell and fire,..

[@lamedrums]

It's such a relief to see the interior of your shells start off as chewed up and ugly as mine do. I was starting to think I was doing something wrong. What a stressful and emotional process each one is! I appreciate your inspiration and like everyone else, I'm glad you're back.

[@ShaMan54321]

Yet again, another smashing video. Love your work!

[@korolev-musictodriveby6583]

Thanks for letting me watch ! This , just like every drum I’ve watched you create , is absolutely gorgeous . Part 3 can’t come fast enough ! Do you leave your name on your drums? I see it ‘branded’ on the air hole plug ! Or subtly signed and numbered on the inside ?

[@JosephCenter]

I've never been good about signing the drums, and I don't have a brand. This one will get signed, subtly on the inside.

[@korolev-musictodriveby6583]

Joseph Center If I had one of your drums ( and I , too have enough Sapele for a 14x4 & a 13x3 , but you haven’t made a piccolo yet !) I would tell anyone who showed a glimmer of interest that it was a Joseph Center Drum ! I love the elegant simplicity and the precise care you put into your instruments . If you heard the music I make , you would wonder where I’m coming from but I respect the undeniable art and quality of your work! So if you DO create a piccolo , it’s sold ! Also, I must praise your choice of soundtrack ! There’s a fabulous piece on one of your earlier videos that I especially like . I’m struggling to find it but that’s not really a problem! I have a 4 track EP out , but YT only has three for now although it’s on Spotify ( One by Korolev ) if you’re curious ‘though I couldn’t forgive myself for keeping you from your work ! Thanks for responding and do have a think about that brand - it will look 👌! Have a great day , Nick Connell

[@hubasdrums877]

I am looking for a sound!! :) nice job Jo! :) I send hellos from Czechia :)

[@JosephCenter]

I can't wait to hear it! I'll make a video when it comes back to me. :)

[@Blue60]

Hi what router bit did you use for the edging near the end of your video please

[@manuenes1]

Diy vacuum cleaner?

[@la15recuerdos]

Really cool! A very Nice and clean finish! By the way what's the name of the song in the end?

[@robertwilson7143]

I want a to build a set out of some cherry and walnut I have in the shop. where did you come up with that table? I am amazed at how versatile it is and I bet I could fix my woodworking table with something similar. You are very gifted. thanks for the video.

[@JosephCenter]

The bench idea is my own, though I'd love to make a nicer, sturdier version. The channel down the middle is to make sure my jigs are centered on the router blade. They're also handy for collecting all the loose parts in my garage with nowhere else to go.... My hope is that this summer I'll be able to build a larger and sturdier version--and flatter!--with a more reliable integrated rail system for mounting my planing sled.

[@dattoboy1]

Nice work! I want to make a snare drum using the same technique. Do you use a ball nose router bit when routing the inside of the drum?

[@JosephCenter]

I just use a straight fluted bit. Nothing fancy. I tried a ball nose bit for the inside once before and it was terrible. Sanding was way harder than using the fluted bit.

[@palmgamerz.7282]

wowwwww

[@WalterZammit]

Just a question why not use a lath

[@JosephCenter]

The router setup is reliable and effective.

[@brendenwilliams6000]

If you were making drums much smaller in diameter, like 6” for example, how would you mill the inside? A router is definitely not gonna work for that...

[@JosephCenter]

Well, I haven't done it yet, but I have had to figure it out.... About a year ago, a guy from the Netherlands (of all places) tracked me down down and asked about writing a bid on a 26-piece, including 3 bass drums, 3 snares, an insane mess of toms and gong drums, and a set of 4 octobans. If you're not familiar with the octobans, they're only 4-6" diameter. So Dremel makes as 90-degree angle attachment, which I was planning on mounting to a custom sled and, with a variable speed router (the usual high speed would be too much), shaping the inside like I would otherwise do. But the order fell through. As interested as the man was, he just didn't have the money for it. Go figure. :)

[@brendenwilliams6000]

Joseph Center that makes sense! I’ll definitely have to try rigging something up.

[@brendenwilliams6000]

Do you think it would be possible to make a tube sander jig similar to the one on this page? Essentially turning the whole length of the inside at once? pdgood.us/drumshed/koko.html

[@albertosantillan8115]

hello, can you send me plans the guia the gin?

[@JosephCenter]

Sorry, man, but I don't make plans. Watch my videos, though. I walk through the entire process. Cheers!