Building a Cthulhu Knife! Part 2

[@mechtech85]

Wrap the knife in a wet rag or suspend it in water so the only area getting hot is where you are soldering

[@paulObriant]

There are several different types of silver solder that flow at different heats. You could use the Hard solder on one spot, medium on the middle, and soft at the end. Just food for thought. Check out Riogrande

[@rorydonaldson2794]

I have to say, I'm loving with how this project is coming along. That's one mammoth blade, huge bevels, it'll be a beast of a chopper!

[@Bakers_Ville]

If there was ever an episode to collaborate with MichaelCthulu, this would be the one

[@TroyDeanOnTheRoad]

On the solder process. The better the fit up the better the solder. It works best in a capillary environment, thusly the tighter the fit the more the solder will move with the heat. It is best to try and solder the connection in one setting, eliminating the de-solder further along the connection. Look up jewelry making and you might get a bit of help. As well, @paulObriant is correct there are a few different silver solders that flow at different temperature that work well when dealing with heat syncs and de-solder. Great video, thanks!

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic work, Steve! Looking forward to part 3! 😃 The bit with the AI was priceless! 😂 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@the_fafologist]

Looking amazing! Cant wait to see the rest.

[@krissteel4074]

I've done copper cladding in a sense 'once' and its really difficult with silver solder.I used a 'Hard' solder which had a melt point of about 750C (I don't know what that is in fries) and clad mokume gane to the the sides of the blade, then edge quenched it after doing a torch heat along the edge so it would hang in there long enough to get it in the oil. It worked, but it was kind of crap and needed a LOT of work after because there's solder, some kind of flux goo all over it and overall it was far... oh so far from good! Second attempt, (because I do actually need another punch in the mouth to get a bad idea finished), was Bronze brazing the mokume onto the knife blade and this does work a lot better because its working temps are up in the 870-900C range, which will allow you to do the hardening cycle on most low alloy steels without it melting into sadness and failure. You will need an adult for bronze brazing because its kind of scary and most knife makers with just a welder are a menace to society at large. It will also probably not let most of the Brass alloys survive either. Copper + bronze braze will put it there However, its still a big-ass heat sink on the back of the blade and its still liable to cause catastrophic warps for all sorts of reasons that aren't really very fixable easily. Like forge welding and arc welding, got to be clean surfaces before you start and make sure the flux goes where you want it to stick, just like forge welding. The result was still kind of rubbish though and I didn't like it even after grinding away a lot of sins and 'features', I'm sure there's some hoary old bastard out there who's been brazing for 50 years and can do it, but I don't know him and he sure as hell isn't me.

[@noneyabidness9644]

Ahh, so there is a third part. Well, when you do something new, helps to keep detailed records.

[@crashwelder5337]

Snap on used to make a product called hot blocker. It's a gel in like a spray bottle that you could put A-line between where you are soldering and the blade. hopefully This will prevent I'm the soldering from affecting the heat treated area To give you an idea I sprayed it around a 5/8 piece of round bar and put a oxy torch to it and was able to touch the other side of the round bar 3" away

[@user-ii5im7zm2t]

Green Beetle is the best knifemaker in the world.

[@darrell840]

He truly is amazing but I vote for arpad bojtos and Kyle royer

[@TheRogueRockhound]

How could AI not know Green Beetle is the best?!

[@GreenBeetle]

it stoopid. I wonder if enough people tell it i'm the best what would happen...

[@TheRogueRockhound]

@@GreenBeetle Only 1 way to find out buddy ^^

[@tobesmith7632]

heat that copper up to a glowing red and then instantly quinch it. it makes it so much softer and easier to work with

[@fallowstrider]

Cool gel used for brazing next to heat sensitive parts in hvac

[@GreenBeetle]

Great tip!

[@myfavoriteviewer306]

That's it, I'm boycotting ChatGPT until it refuses to deny that Green Beetle is the best knifemaker in the world. 😂 That beast of a knife is looking super nice so far. I'm really looking forward to see how you tackle the copper, quite the interesting challenge.

[@kevinkessinger5911]

So I believe there is a way to copper plate the knife using something like the machine we use to etch our makers mark. Would put on a thin layer of copper on and just sand back the parts you don't want copper on

[@DEADLOK69]

Ben Abbott is dying to test out that knife on something solid. TOTALLY SOLID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AND HARD!!!

[@JacobE-23]

Man I'm loving that blade so far!!

[@noneyabidness9644]

You have fireproof hands. When I grind a blade, I stop every 5-10 seconds to dip them. I use CLR for etching. Gives a nice white hamon. Though it does darken the softer steel.

[@jeremynedrow7003]

Do you mean calcium lime and rust cleaner?

[@GreenBeetle]

yeah which clr?

[@noneyabidness9644]

@@GreenBeetle calcium lime rust remover.

[@jeremynedrow7003]

@@noneyabidness9644 thank you, I've never heard of using that for a hamon I'm going to have to try it.

[@noneyabidness9644]

@@GreenBeetle also, needs to soak for an hour+. I usually let it sit for 3 hours to get a very dark back for a sharp contrast. It definitely isn't as fast as ferric chloride.

[@jamessnodgrass7360]

44 mag solder from Brownells melts at 400 to 450f I've used it a great deal. It's lead free and quite strong. You do need to use their Flux or Comet brand. Paste type seems to goof up. Good luck Steve.

[@GreenBeetle]

I’ll try it

[@jasonharrison25]

What about just electroplating some copper onto the blade and then grinding away the areas not needed?

[@Dorelaxen]

Cthulu himself is most displeased that this project is not yet finished, Steve. Most displeased.

[@GreenBeetle]

that little bitch!

[@CD23_06]

What do you plan to do with the knife when it’s finished?

[@danthemakerman]

Its look pretty sick man, good luck on figuring out the copper bits.

[@GreenBeetle]

Thanks 👍

[@pootmahgoots8482]

8:00 could you maybe cast the copper onto the handle? Like make a sand cast mold to encase that part of the handle with copper and grind it down to how you want? Only issue with that I can see is possibility of messing up the heat treating but maybe you can isolate the blade with that furnace clay and use just enough copper to get the knife how you want? Just a thought. Otherwise you could heat the copper up and make it more malleable and work it into the shape of the handle and pin it on like you originally had it then solder it on? I love how elaborate this project is and I have no doubt that it's going to look amazing when you're done.

[@jasonharrison25]

"No wipe Lincoln logs" 😂

[@philippayne1544]

Watch Bondihacks make a boiler on how to anneal copper.. or just Google it. You then need to silver solder the whole piece at the same time. Lots of different types available that are more resistant to reheating so they don't come off again.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

To silver solder the material needs to be a red heat, that'd be tough to keep temper without submerging the blade while trying to silver solder the tang.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

We want the rant! lol

[@Pablo668]

Nice work so far. I never thought I'd live to see a Steve poop rant, but here we are. Yeah that silver soldering copper to the rest of the blade is problematic, If you were to get the copper shaped to fit, it would just be a matter of plenty of flux and wicking the silver solder (capilliary action?) under the copper. It's possible, I doubt I could do it tbh, and then there's the heat to condider. Ah well, I'm just spitballing.

[@paulbarber3060]

LOL @ closing sequence

[@pyroman136]

I have no experience with metal working at all, but what if you suspended the knife in water while soldering the copper. It might keep the temper of the blade and if you moved the water line over the finished sections of solder it might be able to keep that part cool so it wouldn’t come unsoldered while you work on the next section. It’ll be finicky but might be doable.

[@beezo2560]

I gotta hand it to ya, you're hanging in there. This build is a tough one especially when it comes to the copper. Thought: what about cutting in an inlay trench along the contour and using a jeweler's tool to vibrate copper wire into the trench? I've seen Royer do this with gold wire.

[@GreenBeetle]

hmmm

[@azuritet3]

South Park was right Steve, just get a bidet from Costco.

[@GreenBeetle]

😀

[@mattdickson2]

work the copper down into a foil or get a copper wheel and braise it on

[@Dapstart]

perhaps you could swap the copper for gold and try to damascene gold foil on? the durability of damascening is provably robust enough for your taste

[@fivequid]

Thanks for the narration. I love to hear you thought processes on the job at hand. And as a fellow dunny bomber the butt lumber joke had me chuckling. That knife is going to look great.

[@ghill1010]

I’m all for a rant!!!!!

[@gamingenius]

Wondering if you might be able to speed things up (and reduce mess) by buying citric acid powder instead.

[@GreenBeetle]

I tried that once. It worked ok but the powder I bought wouldn't fully dissolve and left little speckles on the steel.

[@fxnepilogue]

Stubborn AI 😂 eventually they’ll come around 🤣

[@joshmajor8662]

I guess I’ll be back for the finished quench Lol glad your back tho!! Even if you are dying haha 😂 you might wanna see a doctor or shaman Lol

[@j.m.k.3406]

Idk about affixing the actual copper, but couldn't you heat the area, then copper brush it on....like brassing???

[@la.r182]

you could copperplate the knife with electrolysis as i know it doesent effect the hardnes!? under your last video i ask if you could use a diy nickelplatet piece of steal in a container damast.. now you can try the electrolysis with copper XD i love your vids and as a beginner i rly learnt a lot of stuff from you! greetings from germany

[@kniferewiewscool2646]

I like this.

[@osirisatot19]

The secret to not having weird ideas for knives that make no sense is to hire a human artist to do it, they tend to do a better job and appreciate being paid a lot more.

[@GreenBeetle]

Yes I had to hire a human artist here in fact. But point was to see what ai could cook up.

[@osirisatot19]

@@GreenBeetle Yeah I wasn't trying to be mean or anything, and I do like what the human artist did. Also AI+Lovecraft in general just seems like a very bad idea.

[@paranoiia8]

Why not use small rivets/pins in random places over that cooper and make them look like barnacles? They would hold it firmly and you could work with that cooper without worrying that it will desolder. Also why not skipping doing that bendy part on edge and just use two cooper plates on both sides and bend them toward it making seam in the middle by hammering it?

[@GreenBeetle]

I tried this very thing hammering the copper over the edge loosened the rivets and getting a nice even seem was not possible. If I have I still have the footage I'll put it in the next video.

[@mduvigneaud]

I'm in no way an expert (but I have driven past a Holiday Inn before) but one of the YT channels I watch (Blondihacks) has been building a steam engine with silver-soldered copper parts. At least from what I understand from what she's said there are different types of silver solder. The "proper" stuff isn't the regular solder used for plumbing or electronics, which is mostly just tin. From what I understand, "proper" silver solder is more like brazing and it also has a chemical change after flowing... and will have a higher melting point so you can reheat and solder more parts without melting the earlier solder joints. Hopefully someone can give better info than I can.

[@larryscott6153]

Put a heat sink to take the heat

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

New OSHA regulation: ALL Turds Over 4" Long MUST Be Hand Lowered To Prevent Hazardous Back Splash.

[@WildHuntKnives]

This... Is the best thing I've read.. probably ever .

[@GreenBeetle]

would this reduce skid marks? what can i do about skid marks?

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

@@GreenBeetle Well section No.2 states that it may mitigate the risk of "heavy sinkers" making their mark but, I've found it's the final flushing step at the end that always screws ya.

[@christopherneelyakagoattmo6078]

@@GreenBeetle The ONLY OSHA APPROVED skidmark prevention method is the application of storm oil on the surface of the bow(e)l water which must be reapplied after every flush. Or before every drop session. Consult MHDS Manual.

[@LILMADERR23]

I like you, Steve :)

[@Wuzzup129]

ChatGPT is wrong about you Green Beetle.

[@jamieshoemaker9986]

As far as the copper goes, i would use the second blank as a mandril to form the curved piece, and then solder all the copper together over the blanc to creat a sort of jacket, and use copper pins and a little epoxy to attach it to the mane knife and polish/ peen the copper untill you cant tell where the pins are

[@GreenBeetle]

This is a great idea. I thought about grinding a negative of the area out of copper and using it to press a thin piece of copper onto the steel with then flux it in place but I think your way may be better.I have to get those surfaces just right for a good solder though.

[@jamieshoemaker9986]

@@GreenBeetle you could always coat the blanc in a thin layer of non reactive material like a heavy spray of wd40 or simply leave it in the forge for a while to get a good scale going

[@jamieshoemaker9986]

Solder it over the blank, slip off, then pin onto the mane one

[@pecnorthernvalley4892]

No expert but I’d probably make the contact surface smooth on the knife first, then shape that copper piece to “perfect fit. Then pre-tin it and solder it on, the whole piece at once….

[@GreenBeetle]

i've been looking at this, sweating solder it's called?

[@pecnorthernvalley4892]

@@GreenBeetle Yes… a big problem is of course that the mass and amount of material of the knife is so much larger than the copper piece. A big risk of ruining the tempered steel in order to get the piece to fuse? Do you have access to a induction heater? 😬 That wold perhaps be helpful to concentrate the heat to a smaller section?

[@hardcode57]

Have you thought of copper plating the part where you can't attach the copper sheet?

[@GreenBeetle]

like electro plating?

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

@@GreenBeetle that's what I was thinking as an option. I'm pretty sure it's the first step when nikel plating and pretty easy to do, though not sure how durable it is.

[@brysonalden5414]

@@Steve_Just_Steve That's what I was thinking also. Just paint resist on the rest of the blade and plate the copper on. Only takes a few minutes, and isn't as fiddly as trying to form the copper to that shape.

[@hardcode57]

@@GreenBeetle yep. if you blend the cpper sides with the steel with abrasives then copper plate over them both, you might get the appearance of the whole thing being copper clad. Or ot might look like shit, in which case you sand it off.

[@TalRohan]

could you add in the copper at an earlier stage...(I know but I wasnt there earlier) as a Cu Mai mini cannister ?? theres food for thought ;l

[@GreenBeetle]

Heat treat would melt it off I think

[@TalRohan]

@@GreenBeetle ah now that depends on the parent steel because the melting temp if copper is 1085C or in American that's 1985F ..... Should be ok I think

[@TalRohan]

@@GreenBeetle hilarious rant btw

[@jonathanyoung2588]

Does JC Penney still have a perfume counter?

[@danwerkman]

I am still stuck on the bit were Steve is based in Australia....or am I loosing my mind

[@GreenBeetle]

Steve is in oklahoma

[@mrbfox1775]

Could you just electroplate a copper layer instead of using copper sheathing?

[@ReviewThisTestThat]

electro plate the copper.

[@iolithblue]

Rivets?

[@GreenBeetle]

good thought

[@jamesheald567]

talking to vanilla

[@zirconia21]

Copperplate it?

[@GreenBeetle]

describe

[@zirconia21]

@@GreenBeetle Electrolysis?

[@mrbfox1775]

@@GreenBeetle electroplate, use a resist layer where you want clean steel.

[@cavemanvi]

id recommend poo pourri

[@GreenBeetle]

boom

[@RobPollen]

dude your losing it !

[@GreenBeetle]

it long gone

[@louislarose6613]

Great video ! GOOGLE ;HOW TO SWEAT ON SIVER SOLDER