BUILDING A GIANT RC AIRBUS A350 XWB, Part 1

[@RamyRC]

Trying and learning a new method this time, what do you guys think about it?

[@tw.4g188]

Something new to learn

[@fludge9677]

Can i get a sub?

[@iforce2d]

Looks like fun! What do these parts weigh? Will the wings be done in the same way?

[@munichfly7024]

Well it seems to work just fine. However I am not sooooo happy with the all the waste, you will create with those 3D-Prints. It is actually quite a lot and I think it is also pretty expensive, isn‘t it?

[@jamesaddison81]

Amazing build! What’s the reason for using fibreglass over carbon rather than just one of them?

[@AlphaOneProductions]

Mask up for the Resin bro. it has a cumulative effect, and once you get flu like symptoms due to constant exposure, it does not go away. I have seen it happen to a few scratch builders who just put on gloves, with no mask, they can no longer handle or be exposed to Resin. Keep building and enjoying what you do.

[@RodionHerrera]

I concur. My asthma worsened when we were doing this in our aero lab.

[@marioghioneto1275]

Well, there are some resins that don’t release gasses but I don’t know how much more expensive they are hahahah and I don’t think he’s using them but... maybe???

[@marioghioneto1275]

But yeah, I agree, protection in the workplace is SO important, many things seem to not harm, but they add up with the time and can cause serious trouble and harm

[@bobbyrayofthefamilysmith24]

Would you have flu syndrome for the test of your life after resin exposure? I wanted to start making things from resin but don't want to have permenant flu from it

[@AlphaOneProductions]

@@bobbyrayofthefamilysmith24 The only time you will get the flu like symptoms is when you use Resin. My friend tried every way to get rid of it, and was not successful. He made several scratch built aircraft, and it just caught up with him. I was heading down the same path, until I witnessed what happened to him.

[@volksyes9477]

By having molds you can now sell airframes🤘🤘🤘

[@xizx2597]

I was thinking about it too.

[@AlphaOneProductions]

With selling and producing mass volumes of airplanes, turns from a labor of love to something you regret doing, because people are cheap. If Ramy starts thinking about the man hours involved to make and distribute this product, that alone will discourage him or anyone else. If he charged for those hours, it would be out of the price range for the average modeler.

[@MarcAntoine01]

@@AlphaOneProductions its not about being in the price range for the average. Man hours for such crafts are expensive. Do you think exotic car manufacturers care about that ? It's the same. If its premium, you have to pay for it.

[@AlphaOneProductions]

@@MarcAntoine01 Obviously you missed my point, why do you think the foamy market is so good? Guys do not want to pay for something that can be gone in seconds. The market for exotic aircraft and exotic cars is totally different. My Lambo can be insured, and I will get paid maybe 70% of it's value if I wreck and it's my fault. You crash a composite Jet and total it, you are at 100% loss of your investment period. Bad to compare exotic cars to model jets. Stu Max did research and development, He spent time energy and resources developing and EDF fan for all to enjoy. His design was stolen, and massed produced by another company, you would think that modelers would care right? The only thing they cared about was the fan was sold cheaper, and they continue to purchase the knock-off fans to this date. Modelers are cheap and I would hate to see Ramy lose his love for building these amazing aircraft.

[@jjdavidian]

even compete with Airbus and Boeing I hope we'll soon have General aviation planes made by Ramy

[@gregoetker1389]

You can install TMC Quiet Stepper Drivers for about $50 so the printer would be super quiet. You could also install Noctua Quiet Fans for about $40 to reduce fan noise as well. Good job on your project.

[@tarui]

Quiet *

[@miked5444]

Was gonna say the same. The only downside is I check on it more cause I can't hear it printing and keep thinking something has gone wrong.

[@gregoetker1389]

@@miked5444 that's why I have a Wyze $25 camera, I can watch it from anywhere and in total darkness.

[@zsbstephen]

Part 4 : Ramy RC is going to establish a RC model manufacture factory .

[@andreferro4618]

He should. I had the same thought...

[@jlions72]

I think he would need a few Employees..!

[@NawaSena_]

i wont buy

[@MarcAntoine01]

@AlexDa Gamer I could work in this type of industries but I also could buy a smaller airliner

[@Camaronelrompereglas]

Yes

[@DoRC]

A set of fiberglass laminating rollers will help remove bubbles.

[@davidGrainger]

Or you could cut about half the length of the bristles on the brush you use to tap the laminate, so the bristles look more like a tooth brush. When you're tapping you're using the side of the full length bristles on your brush, which isn't as effective at removing air pockets. What you want to do is tap with the end of the shortened bristles. Also, it might be better to make an easier to fair male plug, fair it, then lay up your female mold on that. The composite mold you make will last longer than the 3D printed female mold.

[@illla]

Laminating rollers would improve the quality of the work but those still do not provide 100% bubble free result

[@andyrbush]

When I started model planes in 1956 this would have been science fiction. Amazing.

[@shelbyseelbach9568]

In 1996, this would have been science fiction.

[@tonyhussey3610]

Shelby Seelbach I remember in College in 2000 and 3D printing was still very very rare..not quite science fiction just out of the reach of most people.

[@shelbyseelbach9568]

@@tonyhussey3610 If I had said in 2000 this would have been science fiction, that would be relevant. But I didn't.

[@tonyhussey3610]

Shelby Seelbach Chill Tigre...look at the context off all the comments..everyone says a date and says it was science fiction..I just remembered the first time I saw 3D printing and commented.. I must have replied to you directly I didn’t mean too. Just a word of advice..maybe get defensive on a more serious topic and I will be more careful how I post a comment..deal ?

[@shelbyseelbach9568]

@@tonyhussey3610 I can't make that deal. If you don't want to get bitched at, pay attention to what the hell you are doing. You created the situation, don't blame me. Good day.

[@naunau8367]

Having done carbon stuff two things to improve your carbon: 1- a paint roller to make your epoxy go through the fiber. You can use a paintbrush first to apply the epoxy and fix the carbon in place 2- let the carbon dry under vacuum (better but not mandatory) one more thing, if you want to strengthen your parts you you'll juste have to do a two layer carbon the upper layer should have its fibers making an 90° angle we the lower layer. If you want to go overkill you can use Nomex (honeycomb type material) that you put in the middle of two layers. But I think it's very much overkill for your application domain ! hope it was usefull ! great work for your first carbon part by the way!

[@tonyhussey3610]

naunau 83 Definitely recommend using a vacuum, the quality goes up by a crazy amount especially if using peel ply and bleed cloth. Also weighing the correct amount of resign for the Carbon so you can keep the weight down. Also a surfboard squeegee is great to compress the fibres..it’s a wide rubber like spreader..bendy and forgiving..you can compress the fibres and remove the excess resign.

[@AlexCell33]

What about prepregs?

[@illla]

@@AlexCell33 prepregs require heat to be cured and those PLA 3D printed molds do not withstand more than 50 C

[@RCHeliJet]

Great Work Ramy next Level Carbonfiber Fuselage Fantastic and the 2x 3D Printer work the hole time smile, have a nice Weekend.

[@RamyRC]

Thanks buddy, have a great weekend.

[@willyjimmy8881]

Those bubbles in the skin will not even be noticeable after you prep the surface and paint it. Great start so far. Looking forward to seeing it come together.

[@Project-Air]

Amazing work man! Can't wait to see more of this beautiful model come to life!

[@RamyRC]

Thanks buddy

[@rlabiche]

@@RamyRC when will part 2 be ready

[@Redblood797]

For your first time making molds, you did great! If you want a better finish, then put the top outer layer with carbon and then do fiberglass reinforcement on the inside.

[@socialus5689]

''Wait something is wrong here, The windows!'' Yes i uh... definitely totally noticed that.

[@luqmansugiyono5778]

Hand layup + vacuum bagging = 💯👍 Reduce bubbles, lightweight fuselage, etc. Try it!

[@adamjacobs8606]

Ramy I've seen at least one other person mention it but you NEED to get that excess resin out of the part resin isnt flexible and makes your parts actually MORE brittle instead of less. Research peelply and get any plastic scraper and get that resin OUT

[@donanders2110]

They make a cloth that will absorb resin, even if he chooses not to vacuum the parts, it will help. You make a great point.

[@adamjacobs8606]

@@donanders2110 yup that cloth is known as peelply it's designed to allow resin to permeate through it but it wont stick to the carbon beneath then you just peel it away

[@ECarbonFiber]

Nice work. I would suggest looking into vacuum bagging with a peel ply and breather. It will remove the air bubbles but more importantly, excess resin will be removed. Making the part lighter and stronger!

[@finnleithomczyk5292]

0 Dislikes! well deserved!!!

[@cryobytedoesstuff2302]

(11 dislikes)

[@jjraga]

@@cryobytedoesstuff2302 (12)

[@dieselrotor]

I am so envious of guys like You who get to do things like this that so many of us would also love to. Thank You for showing and teaching us how to do it. Such neat work and skill. And what a payoff ! Enjoy.

[@chilly1661]

I F***KING LOVE YOU! THESE PROJECTS ARE MY DREAMS COMING TRUE! Continue making these beauties.

[@GrantOakes]

I've literally laid up dozens of tons of fiberglass and can tell you the best way to hand lay and avoid air bubbles is to lay the resin down first and then put the cloth into the mold and work the resin up rather than putting the cloth in and trying to work the resin down into the cloth. Try that on your next part. Great job overall though and I wish you continued success with your R/C projects.

[@SylvainsShipyard]

I'm not a model airplane builder I'm a scale model boat builder but still I like to look at your videos and discover new building techniques and ideas! Thanks for sharing!

[@Scenium]

Nice work Ramy!

[@RamyRC]

Thanks

[@valderramajeria]

your commitment, passion, and skill earned my subscription....

[@loebair]

LOVE IT!! cant wait to see it bro !

[@RamyRC]

Thanks bro!

[@johanfehr5948]

You have no idea how excited I am for this build

[@daveplayz584]

I've been waiting for that a350

[@stevenplaskett7728]

Vacuum moulding is very easy to do. Get a bag for clothing and apply a shop vacuum to it and you have a easy vacuum moulding set up

[@TailSpin46]

Awesome idea. I love it. I never thought of that.

[@xenomorphbiologist-xx1214]

I would like to see this one in the Cathay Pacific Livery

[@ThaiAirways-tj4tm]

Thai Airways!!!

[@ashcadiang]

PAL!

[@willaiml]

Broke my heart to see the 787-9 crash. The nice thing about this new build, you’ll have molds to make parts or a whole new plane if needed.

[@BbBoY161]

SO Cool! Love how you're bringing the methods they use (composite) in real life and bringing it to life in the RC world. Been a sub since the start :) keep it up!

[@DoRC]

Check out setting up linear advance in marlin on the printer. I will reduce corner over extrusion and lead to less cleanup. Also maybe consider designing keys into your parts for easier alignment.

[@georg.tripreprt]

Omg Ramy Rc Ive Been waiting for thatt and its finally here cant wait to see the finish , btw i subbed to yah and love your vids keep up good works !

[@kajakmannen]

Nice build m8. A good tip on how to get the parts out of the molds after curing is to use high pressure air and shoot it in between the mold and the layup. Works like a charm

[@airbusguy3638]

When is part 2 coming out? Can't wait🔥

[@engineergaming4295]

Part 2 is coming out 4 months ago

[@paktoysreview8377]

sharp mind friend

[@ellamuhilenmaheswarijagade5832]

Can you share the 3d model template

[@playmangostingiu2217]

Despite sniffing all that glue you did an excellent job

[@poszukiwanianalegalu3505]

Maiden flight in this year? :):):)

[@abiralvi4372]

We want to see it by this year!!

[@Anne6621]

i cant believe the talents and skills you have to do this , you really are amazing !!

[@familjenandersson-jonsson5099]

Can you do the scandinavian airlines livery on it? It would be awsome!

[@1ne8ight9ine2]

Tolles Video! So viel Aufwand und Geld steckt heutzutage nur noch selten in einem Video

[@jeremysargent5037]

I hope you are now using narrow rollers to do each layer as you can squeeze those bubbles out. Glad to see you are using a mask and vacuuming up that dust.

[@Sloth-k7k]

The noise from the creality printers comes from the stepper motors for the most part. I the same issue before buying stepper vibration dampeners on amazon. Less than $10 and they make a world of difference, highly recommend

[@arthurmurigin]

Рами, мне очень нравится в тебе то, что тебя не останавливают неудачи и катастрофы твоих моделей! Я рад, что ты начал новый проект A-350( красивый самолет), и что ты стараешься использовать новые технологии в авиамоделировании - 3D печать, карбон. Я желаю удачи тебе и твоему проекту и с удовольствием буду смотреть процесс рождения новой, прекрасной "птички".)

[@SaahajMattey]

Man if you kade airbus XWB kits, I'd easily buy it. I'd even be willing to pay a grand if not more for a full just build kit, no electronics or servos, just the body kit and instructions. Cheers mate, excellent work

[@karim111]

Well done! I say this as an A350 development lead engineer 👍

[@sawer]

Honestly I dont get why you would build a plane like this, like the commercial planes. I always thought they were boring. But watching you make one certainly makes me appriciate them a lot more:)

[@wazza7575]

You are a master craftsman and a gentleman

[@kennethlung3371]

When I come back in my next life, I want to be your brother (not sister) so you can teach me how to build as you do!!!! Out of all the models builders I watch, you are undoubtedly the best I have seen. Keep up the good work and videos. An admirer.

[@DrDrew-mw2gy]

Carbon fiber is super cool stuff! You brought back some fond memories of working with it for me!

[@SPLfish88]

Ich habe den Airbus A350-900 XWB letztes Jahr auf der ILA aus nächster nähe und in der Luft gesehen. Wunderschön und sehr elegant. Es war beeindruckend wie leise dieses Flugzeug durch die Luft gleitet..

[@kwaaaa]

Instead of sanding, consider XTC-3D which coats and covers up any gaps, holes, and leaves a gloss finish. Also consider registration points so the parts snap fit for best alignment. Great job, looking forward to this series.

[@giov.L.4125]

You are the number 1 in the rc World!!

[@yashsoni4144]

Your work is excellent

[@icin4d]

I like that you're using the 3D printer for your mold making. Might be interesting to show a time lapse of you designing the mold on the computer. It doesn't have to be of the whole plane/every part.

[@roscotte]

You need some bubble rollers to eliminate air and get a good bond between layers, a simple brush is absolutely not enough!

[@reds05rc]

Friend I think with the Airbus you'll get lucky for sure ,we all watch the project progress in labor.

[@carlosdavid717]

For don't allowing the bubbles in the plane's body, try creating a homemade vacuum chamber with bags and a vacuum cleaner. PD: Hi from Colombia !

[@jimboisvert5781]

Well done sir! Just a quick suggestion though. An easy way to remove items from a large mould like yours is to lift one corner of the laminate, then give a squirt of compressed air between the laminate and mould. It’ll pop right out. Keep up the good work!

[@twolaneblacktop5903]

Ramy, you should model slots in those moulds to align them easily with pegs or something and avoid that much sanding. You are welcome

[@greasyfingerprints]

To avoid the bubbles in future, try a fibreglass roller. Don't need a vacuum chamber.

[@marcoscamara5624]

Hola, me llamo Marco. No tengo palabras para describir lo que haces. SIMPLEMENTE ESPECTACULAR. ERES UN AUTENTICO CRACK. Gracias por esa maravilla de video. Te seguiré viendo. Un saludo desde España. Marco

[@DoRC]

You can upgrade your printer board to one with silent stepper drivers. That will really quiet down the printer.

[@AndreSilva-jq9kq]

great technique Ramy...

[@abyssalreclass]

You should get a silent motherboard upgrade for your 3D Printers. It includes different stepper motor drivers that makes it a lot quieter.

[@davidsondaini3999]

You're really doing very well with these great works..... Keep it up

[@rockystone8486]

Government agencies and large companies have trouble with those bubbles. That's why the curing is sometimes in done in a vacuum chamber (some of them being very large tanks). Definitely watch out for dust since carbon fiber is "potentially" carcinogenic. Thanks, Ramy.

[@jjdavidian]

Would you make a video showing your entire drawing process ? Thanks Rami What you do is just Great jjD

[@marnitzroux5088]

It might make the gluing of the molds together easier by printing matching registration features in the parts so that they fit pretty much perfectly which doesn't require lining them up by eye and as much sanding work afterwards to made a smooth transition.

[@cptcrazyfingers9639]

Really impressive results considering you didn’t use vacuum bags during the curing process. There is also the possibility of attaching the upper and lower halves of the molds with hinges. Then you can do the whole nose layup, clamp the two halves shut and use an inflatable bladder to put even pressure on it. Then your nose section would be one piece. It has its own challenges of course. Either way, this turned out great!

[@JustMe-ib7je]

can't wait to see if it survives the crash

[@thelight888]

You Sir, are one great artist.

[@drewhayward4113]

If you want to avoid air bubbles in the future, vacuum bag the entire mold. It makes a hug difference!

[@JNDlego57]

Drew Hayward He already said he doesn’t have one

[@kylewilliams8051]

To get rid of the air bubbles in the lay up use a squeegee to force all the air and excess epoxy out. Also you should invest in a couple of vacuum bags and a pump, its not that much extra money and will improve the part.

[@RoboTekno]

Wow, this is great. Keep us posted. Make sure to not put carbon fiber around your RC receiver antennas. Use fiberglass, kevlar, or stick the antenna outside of the plane.

[@ot0m0t0]

Glorious glorious sanding.

[@funfly84]

Hey Ramy, use a velour roller for laminate large areas and apply peelply inside, it smoothed rough edges and you don´t need to sand the carbon if you glued something on

[@eronlushaj4172]

You are genius!When i come to Germany I want to visit you're workshop and airplanes!🇽🇰✈🇩🇪

[@JaydenLawson]

Loved seeing the doors open for the first time

[@stevenplaskett7728]

You need a rubber roller for layers that large to remove air pockets. Or vacuum moulding to create a very tight figment in the moulds

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

This is gonna be an awesome project Ramy! Thanks for painstakingly sharing this process. You are such a good craftsman!!!

[@clemens7603]

I would love to see a Boeing 747 because it is so unique!

[@sebastianionut670]

Nice job! For the next composite parts, i'd suggest using a vaccum bag (or something close to it). Removing the air from the vaccum bag and the pressure applied on the mould would help you get rid of those defects. :) (You can use the vacuum cleaner to vacuum the part, just find a matching adapter.)

[@DrBrian0450]

WOW Ramy! You put so much time and effort into these molds....I certainly hope you plan on selling some molded parts!?!?!?!?!?

[@RyanDavidHale]

It may have already been suggested (note I am only half way through watching the vid so far!) But as you apply your resin and mats, then use a hard roller to compress the fibre-glass and carbon fibre. It will ensure the resin penetrates the mat and drive bubbles out as you can roll up to the edges.

[@jasbirkaur2770]

Great Work! 0 Dislike! Amazing

[@Roadkill601]

You inspire me to build. I am working on EXP1 my 1st scratch built RC Plane Foam built with Foam core fuselage and foam board wing. All because you great videos. Thanks. !

[@krist370]

For first layer use 50g/m2 glass fiber cloth. And then carbon fibers. At the end finish all with another layer of 50g/m2 glass. You will get much better finish. I would also go with wet joinning both halfs. But in that case you need centering pins on mold halfs. Hope it helps you. I watch your channel for some time and just love how easy looks your builds, wish I had your skills.

[@gullix]

For the bubbles in the mold you should vacuum it when it's drying during the night

[@Vangent87]

You don’t have to use a vacuum to not get bubbles but it’s almost impossible to avoid them when you use a brush. The best method would be to use a plastic spreader like you would with body filler and smooth it out after you’ve applied the epoxy. Also, try putting the epoxy on thicker when using the scrapper

[@indian6804]

Love your airplanes and you. Big fan

[@dakotasexton1942]

You are an awesome modeler i enjoy watching ur build videos they are relaxing while at work lol

[@halfsith1]

Damn this is incredible!!! With or without Vacuum bags to eliminate the air pockets. Still an incredible project! Bravo!!

[@PrioCaptSend]

Maybe turning off face detection on your camera will make it easier to focus on the item that you place in front of your camera

[@aserta]

The Bigger cr10 is just that, bigger. Yet the structure is the same. You absolutely need to add the diagonal strut mod to this and have twin rails for the platten. You'll never get quality prints out of it regardless how much you chase your tail with it. Trust me. After i wedged mine under a cabinet with a rubber foam sandwich insert, the quality shot up by a mile. Next step is the extruder, splurge, get the best you can. Worth it. Final point of improvement, IMO, go around with with patience and diligence and check every nut bolt and screw. Make sure every wheel is properly set and add a rubber isolator on the platten's stepper motor.

[@jaimemiguelgomez1865]

Actual planes are made of carbon fibre and metal so realistic!

[@SternLX]

Molds!! Nice. Now you can make replacement parts if needed.

[@russb4755]

You should install some NEMA motor silencers, there only a few quid each and make a phenomenal difference to the sound level. I could hear my big delta printer from the other side of the house through all the walls, after fitting the silencers I could hardly hear it behind 1 closed door - best 20 minutes and £15 I ever spent!

[@sterlingsmith202]

Back at it again with building the best rc airliners! Can’t wait!

[@gcm747]

She’s gonna be big boys!