Building A Large Workbench That's Perfectly Flat // Ultimate Veneer Pressing Setup

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This table was built to provide a large surface for pressing veneer panels. The table can fit a 60" x 120" panel or table top. It also doubles as large assembly table or workbench for the shop. We used torsion box construction to help obtain a very flat work surface for veneering. The table is adjustable sing leg levelers.
Leg levelers I used: amzn.to/3zaz0p9
Hardware for leg levelers: amzn.to/3ggC8sP
Patreon: / andyrawls
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[@manujaen3999]

This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble kzbin.infoUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!

[@Psychlist1972]

That wood may have been a royal pain, but the spalting in it really make it look interesting.

[@commonsense7754]

Until he painted it all😂

[@kz.irudimen]

If it was just spalted it would be cool, but all the holes and powder everywhere makes it impossible to finish properly

[@asdftwef]

I thought (perhaps wrongly) that the whole reason for using torsion box construction is that it is naturally flat - so I don't understand why you'd need or want to "flatten" it on the CNC. Is that perhaps because the slots were too tight, and the ribs didn't hammer down equally in all locations to achieve that natural flatness? I could see the ribs bending while being hammered on. Nice table!

[@dtacklind]

It's great to see a vacuum frame made by a company. I had to make my own thirty years ago. One thing I did differently was using pond liner rubber for the frame blanket. I found a pool company that sold rubber pond lining remnants cheap. The rubber stretches and conforms beautifully to any shape with no wrinkles and you get a much better pressing than the plastic sheet that doesn't stretch.

[@JoshWrightWoodworking]

I really like the way the wood used for the legs looks. I'm sure it wasn't fun to work with but i think all the Spalding and worm holes looked cool. great work as always 👍

[@ThePlywoodShop]

Good to see information about this type of wood working is getting out. I have a 5'x 8' air assist lift top and 2'x4' Veneer vacuum press. If you leave the top down the seal will wear and lose its ability to hold pressure sooner. I like to leave my top up and use the platen as a workbench. If Im doing something dirty I'll put craft paper down or plywood on top of the platen.

[@ApexWoodworks]

Andy, great job on the torsion box table. A few comments if I may: 1. Have you considered creating another torsion box tabletop exclusively for the the veneer press, then hinging it to the wall so that it may be lifted off the torsion box worktable and therefore moved out of the way when not needed? I am concerned that despite your best efforts, when using the veneer press as a worksurface, despite the use of the styrofoam spacers, you'll inadvertantly cut through to the bag when sawing, etc. Just a thought... 2. Yeah, I hear you about using inexpensive lumber for shop projects; no sense investing any more money in materials for such projects than one needs to as far as I'm concerned. 3. Just one comment for Robert regarding the efficient mitering of the ends of the aprons. Because they're all the same distance from the square ends, Robert chould have set up a stop block to rgister the ends and avoided having to measure and mark each before making them on the tablesaw. 4. I am really impresed with the bed size of your CNC. Sure beats my 30" X 30" model, LoL! Keep up the great work, Andy. Love your videos.

[@zephyr1408]

Andy I am a finish carpenter/contractor & I use a laser all the time to set a quick level line for cabinets, all my doors even base up 3/8” for carpet! It’s a very useful tool in & out of the shop! I use a Bosh I think it was a couple hondos? For you Stabila makes a nice one! Ok I really enjoyed Thk u for making the videos!

[@dimiglei3073]

I‘d get rid of theses hinges and pull that aluminium frame with pulleys to the ceiling. So you guys can use these 3 pieces of plywood directly on the gridboard. Sorry for my bad english, cheers from Austria!

[@jonmullins3133]

I would try to avoid an additional top that rests on the aluminum. I would think that would compress the rubber seal and shorten its lifespan. Maby make some standoffs that attach to the sides of the portion box. Excellent episode.

[@dennisatkins9837]

Robert seems like a great fit. He’s doing a great job. He’s pickin up some skills quickly!

[@kavencournoyer748]

I would suggest slip pin hinges for the frame. That way you can easily remove it and use that sweet torsion box. I'd think of it as an assembly table that can also vacuum bag. Not a vacuum table that can also be an assembly table.

[@ADVJason]

Woodturning that wood would look awesome

[@thisolesignguy2733]

The keyword of this video is 'perfectly flat'. You have no idea how difficult that is. great job y'all, it's no easy feat.

[@brownsworthy7323]

I personally love a wood with character of course sometimes 'character' does mean the wood is compromised and may require more work than clean, straight grained wood but I reckon the end result is worth it.

[@eddee4215]

Very nice table. I’m thinking you might need to protect the lid and gasket so I suggest the work surface you want to put over the top would somehow attach to the table sides, with the foam boards acting as support for the middle. Wish you continued success and I enjoy watching your channel

[@SingleStacked]

Looks great! You just need to add on to the shop to store it...😄

[@jpesce23ful]

Looks like Robert is really familiar with gluing up veneers

[@TarotLadyLissa]

I think that wood is actually beautiful.

[@TheManWinje]

Use the cnc to make the foam the same bight as the aluminum

[@cwing892]

Andy, been thinking of a way to use the top for work surface. Maybe the easiest way would be to use your CNC to mill down bigger foam sheets that when they sit on the plastic they are flush with the top of the aluminum frame. Then the plywood would rest evenly across the entire surface. Depending on the load your putting on top should be plenty strong enough. My second idea was to stretch some 1 x 3s across the 5' length and have them supported from the side of the apron boards somehow so it just barely suspends across the frame and plastic to prevent damage. I wouldn't do anything that involves removing the aluminum frame from the table when not in use. Good Luck.

[@kevinmorin7965]

was really surprised the open sided 'torsion' plate was flexible in the turnover! Would have assumed it to be more rigid? Thanks for great video on making this flat work surface.

[@flguy7331]

That wood should be sold to somebody who makes jewelry boxes and other decorative things.

[@JimG31547]

Can't wait to see the table in action.

[@mauriceryton]

Sweet. Great job, as you say it does not have to be pretty, it just has to be dead flat. If it were me l would utilize the shop ceiling to hold the secondary top that can be raised or lowered into place. An electric hoist and you are in business. The secondary top could be slightly bigger than the primary table top, thus protecting the vacuum bag and the aluminum edges. Food for thought.

[@MrCytree]

If I were you guys I would add an angle thats circles the entire table. This would give you a flange (maybe 2"x2"x3/8" angle) that rests just below the clamps for the vacuum bag, circling the table. Then you could assemble a tabletop that is just large enough to cover your veneer table including the flange that I suggested. Onto this table top you add a 2x6 or 2x8 frame (essentially a large shallow box) and the 2x6 or 2x8 frame rests on the steel flange. The veneer table would lock this top in place so that it could not slide and the flange would hold it up. The only issue would be supporting the middle of the table top. For that I would just use your CNC machine to shave down some of that pink foam you were using to the exact height required.

[@TheFishingFL]

I know the feeling. Occasionally my boss gives me the task of working with reclaimed barn wood that he picked up in Ohio. It’s some of the dirtiest/ least fun material to work with. Oh and probably has lead paint

[@lancechisum1529]

Awesome build! Would be cool to see a hoist system for the assembly table add-on that lets you quickly raise and lower the assembly table quickly and easily. Maybe a winch from the roof attached to the corners 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@SuicideNeil]

Hmm- switch the pump from suck to blow, use the table for air hockey... Don't look at me like that. :P

[@sdasherx]

Mill down the foam block to be the thickness you need. Cool project.

[@johngiromini5745]

Now that is some exacting work. Y'all did a great job!

[@lukebm5555]

I’m about to resurface my assembly tables with torsion boxes so it was great to watch your process. I’m thinking I might skip the cross laps on the ribs. Maybe use some shallow dados to locate everything and glue it together using clamps and cambered cauls. My tables aren’t this gigantic though! Should be a little easier to keep things flat and level.

[@ggbuck2625]

As far as protecting the bag and vacuum frame, I would come off of the table legs with some 2 by 4's and let the sit proud of both, frame the plywood and fasten them to the 2 by 4 legs some you protect the bag and the frame. Make the 2 by 4 legs removable.

[@superfunbrowser1896]

Someone should make a KZbin video called, "How to build a perfectly flat workbench when you don't already have multiple giant perfectly flat surfaces all over your shop"

[@Psychlist1972]

Or how to build an acceptably flat, within typical woodworking tolerances and at the current temperature and humidity, table. Just want to make sure we don't give any engineers an aneurism with the term "perfectly flat" :)

[@AndyRawls]

What’s wrong with having a perfectly flat table?!

[@Psychlist1972]

@@AndyRawls There's no such thing as perfectly flat in reality. Hence the engineer comment. It's all about acceptable tolerances. That's why, for example, you can get different grades (with increasing cost and flatness) of surface plates for machining, and those plates come with support and temperature constraints. With most things, it's about how far out of flat it can be over a certain distance. This is also why you see different grades and quality for things like squares and rules. But I was only being somewhat serious. Within the domain of woodworking, we generally know what flatness means. I was just trying to save machinist and engineer friends from popping a blood vessel ;)

[@GeometryBuild]

I eat bugs for breakfast, and would love to have that free lumber )))

[@paulsavidge8847]

Shop furniture or not... I kept hoping "we are going to paint this" was a joke... My heart sank. I have what I refer to as an "Easy Bake Oven" - a 4x4x10 heat box that i can crank up to 140 degrees to get rid of little critters when needed. Spalting is a 1 to 3 year gamble... There is a fine line between jaw drop awesome ( what you had ) and a total loss. Just pains me... but getting past that... GREAT video - THANKS!

[@Phil.C1]

Could the top frame come off, which you then store it up close to the ceiling. Then cover the box surface with your sacrificial ply. When you need to do the vacuum sealing, remove the ply, quick brush blow dust from the MDF surface and bring down the frame with plastic skirt. -You might want to protect the underside of the plastic skirt with a clip on sheet as dust is notorious at getting everywhere, especially if the plastic is slightly static.

[@nutsmcflurry3737]

I wouldn’t put any weight on the aluminum frame while using it as a assembly table. Doing so will put pressure on the vacuum seal and deform it over time.

[@calebcarty8552]

A lot of great projects and content coming out of the shop!

[@deanwilliams93]

Ah, Puttin on the laminate. Prepping the surfaces looks like a "Contact High"

[@88d16z6]

Put 4x4 insets on all the side’s of the table so you can assemble a drop in frame to have a flat work surface. The frame would sit higher then the table then slide your work surface on top. Basically a mini table top that drops in 4x4 post holders

[@Sman7290]

With contact cement, aren't you supposed to cover BOTH surfaces?

[@ChrisAnderson-jc6sy]

Can you just make the metal frame and plastic part removable? That way it stays protected when not on use, hang it on the way or store is somewhere safe and you have your perfectly flat surface with no obstructions.

[@mckenziekeith7434]

Totally agree that you might as well use your giant CNC table. But I was kind of watching to see how I might make a nice flat torsion box. I am probably not going to buy a 60x60 CNC table.

[@rickhickman2730]

I think you would still make a pretty flat torsion top if you used a router sled on a few smaller sections like he did. I will hopefully try it someday lol

[@zohranbloedjes9770]

This is basically what I have ha diny minder for a few years now it's great to see somebody already has done it and that it works. Mabey you could make the bag wicht aliminium frame easily ditacheable

[@Ashdad99]

I'd start by getting full sheets of the insulation and mill them down to the height of the aluminum frame, then atleast you can lay the plywood flat across the whole table.

[@trevorjones1840]

How about another skinnier torsion box on top? Flat, not to hard to store and can be toggle clamped down and together so that it is secure.

[@kevincorbett3328]

Why not remove the hinges and add clamps on all 4 sides if you don’t use a vacuum table all the time. Then you could lift off the vacuum top off to have a smooth work surface. This would also allow you too setup your glue up jobs from all 4 sides squaring them up and then just carry the top over the project to vacuum.

[@NitroMaxOriginal]

Well I guessed FSP was 'four side planer' but who am I to judge 😂😂👌👌

[@marc_frank]

do you want the torsion box to twist, or resist torsion? because then i'd think Putting the ribs at 45° would be better

[@williamellis8993]

Nice table, Andy. My concern is with the foam laying on top of the plastic, wrinkles in the plastic under the foam will give you an uneven surface. Bill

[@rogermccaslin5963]

I'd look at making pivot points at the ends. Clamp the frame shut, lift by pivot points and turn over. You could rig a rope and pully system from the ceiling/joists to lift the torsion box (provided the ceiling/joists are strong enough) and then flip. Use the bottom of the torsion box for your everyday work surface and flip it over when you need to vac a veneer. This would protect the bag and frame from inadvertent punctures or damage.

[@alexanderwood6739]

How about Put a lip around the outside of the torsion box and put "feet" on the top surface so it rests more on the outside lip and not the aluminum frame. Match the height of the foam.

[@Hangs4Fun]

what about another hinged top? It could have heavy duty continuous hinge on the back side and heavy duty latches that also take some of the weight. Then most of the time you just keep it down as a work surface. But when you need to use the vacuum veneer function, you hinge up the top surface exposing the vacuum system. You should still be able to open up the vacuum seal layer, but that should be part of the requirements when designing the top. This would take all of the pressure of your vacuum system and let you do anything you want on the top surface. With properly designed hinge and latch, you can still take some advantage of your torsion box, though just around the perimeter. The other thing would be an electric hoist attached to a second torsion box table that raised and lowered all 4 corners evenly. You could design easy disconnects at the corners so that the lifting cables were out of the way most of the time. Then to use the vacuum system, lower and attach the 4 corners and lift the 2nd torsion box (aka the top working surface) up out of the way.

[@nighttruck70]

Those bug holes and powder may be a Powder Post Beatle infestation that could spread to your other lumber. Sometimes free wood is more costly if you have to fumigation the shop.

[@davideklov9307]

How about a setup that allows you to remove the aluminum frame that holds the bag and replace it with whatever work bench top you need. Maybe there are multiple options. Could be cool to try some different options.

[@scarmenl]

Get T nuts that slide in the track of the table and then you can make any kind of clip you want for your protective table top.

[@sammysteele432]

I think that would was beautiful and would love to have had it for some projects

[@whitevanman8703]

Plan B - Set up a dedicated space on the wall or ceiling to store the aluminium frame and plastic and use a cheap piece of OSB for assembly, glue up and cutting directly on the particle board with a spacer around the edge.

[@mattheweller4463]

I'm thinking you could build a second torsion box that is lowered from the above rafters with an electric winch system, it could rest on blocking attached to the rails on the base table and the cables could be attached to swing away eyebolts so they could be removed and raised out of the way...looks like you have some beams that would support it, but can't tell how much weight they would hold from the video

[@dylansousa5571]

Andy the looks great

[@h4mmy753]

Similar to how the vacuum bag opens up, my boss has a separate system of the top of the veneer press that would open up with a pully system. That could save you a lot of real estate as well. It might be tricky in your case though, since your vacuum bag runs the whole perimeter of the table. Edit: Forgot to mention the part where it would be a work surface above the veneer press essentially, lol

[@rossen_nikov]

I'm not an expert in this but the first thought I have had in my mind is why don't you make this expensive frame/sheet removable and simply remain with/on the table itself? After all, whatever you do over the silicone sheet which is not dead flat as well you will endup pressing it. If you use the frame itself and put some support in the side T channels you will still be pressing the frame seal which is soft and will not meet the flatness you need and even you may destroy it. So, if I was you I would make the whole frame with the silicone sheet removable.

[@dan__________________]

A secondary lid that stays open when you are doing veneer work might work. Extruded aluminum sections made into a grid for lightness, and a top made from plywood?

[@ronbethel2197]

Can the aluminum frame hinge to the table and open as a book and place the entirety set up against a wall

[@sethhamilton5824]

Hmmm.... in some ways it would be more flexible as 60x120" bag setup you could roll up... or maybe... if you could just lift the vacuum frame up, and lay two 60x60 sheets of MDF over the air channels. Maybe give them a coat of poly and was so glue doesn't stick?

[@coryspence5903]

Add another frame around the outside to double as protection for the clamping hardware, and also as a "bezel" that matches the height of the foam.

[@coryspence5903]

Place the 1/2 on that bezel and foam now your veneer equipment if protected abd you have an amazing large and perfectly flat work surface

[@genelomas332]

2 options for the work surface panels: one: just flip the vacuum frame up and tie that black strap to the roof so it doesn't fall down, and lay the 3 big half inch panels on the 1/4inch air duct surface.. only downside is that you can't get to one side.. two: add riser plates to the side edge of the torsion box section all the way around which stand level with the top of the closed vacuum frame, then put the 1/2" panels on those, use dowels or dominos to locate the panels and a few screws to stop them sliding around. if you cut the big panels down and create shelves under the table you'll have convenient storage for those panels too.

[@bg73]

13:34 Why didn't you run the CNC along the edges of the torsion box in a grid instead of up and down? It would have gone way quicker...

[@2ddw]

For using your table as a work table: maybe separate the table frame from the torsion box + vacuum press and set the torsion box/vacuum press aside vertically. Build a new top.

[@oldcarnutzs2886]

I would build a frame around the sides of the that sits higher that vacuum system and the rest plywood on top of that.

[@gekkehenkie0001]

Was there a reason you used a gazillion screws to fixate the top and bottom wooden panels, but left out the wood glue?

[@MCsCreations]

Wow... Fantastic work, Andy! Pretty interesting new tool! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@TheSMEAC]

Super cool

[@prestonbowden]

Why are you running the CNC so slow?

[@b-radg916]

Was the wood for the legs Hackberry? I did a couple CNC projects with it. Probably won’t again.

[@josephfisk466]

I did this without a CNC machine and used pine and it did not work out very well lol. It's almost flat but would not recommend this method to anyone who does not have the proper equipment

[@woodbe5311]

Just remove the top membrane frame when you dont use it and store it anywhere. Add a MDF top just for working on it. That way you can use that torsion box i all area as a workbench without demage the veneer surface. ;)

[@bigbankhank1337]

If you’re going to paint it why not just bondo all the holes? I can’t think of a faster/easier method. Epoxy seems like way overkill just my take

[@whitevanman8703]

Is veneering more or less ecological then cutting down hardwood trees? Less use of precious timber but more production of MDF which is not ecological at all.

[@rickhickman2730]

I'm not entirely clear on how that laser system worked but I would love to know for my own bench

[@Kcustom216]

What's your opinion on the sliding attachment for your SS?

[@cwing892]

I have the same setup on my Sawstop. Built very rigid, and accuracy is great. I haven't had any complains so far, except for sometimes I find I have to take the fence off of the sliding table for cutting some larger pieces out of sheet goods. Its worth every penny in my opinion.

[@Kcustom216]

@@cwing892 Thank you. I've been mulling over if I should add it to my setup and was wondering about accuracy and ease of use.

[@bertv1205]

The way to get something really flat and level is to float it on mercury. Probably won’t work with plywood, though...

[@jamessheppard4372]

How can it be flat when wood warps

[@mannymayer9250]

A great way to import bugs to your shop. Free or not, I would have used that wood for camp fire.

[@y2kdeuce2]

Hahahaha chicken / egg problem. I'm watching this to build a torsion box to rest my CNC on.

[@jaspersevers]

Can't you hoist the complete frame and plastic of the table? Use the same clamps all around if in use, and "store" underneath the ceiling? Waste of such a flat surface in case not in use.

[@josephbohme7917]

Obvious solution is to have a lightweight panel overhead on cable lines with 2 linked pulleys to lower as needed. and use 1 solid piece of foam as a you have and face with 1/4 Baltic or masonite. unless its a spoil board use releasable 2 sided tape. the bigger sheet, the better. Lighter better. even Lexan sign faces offer huge 1/8 " roll sheets. Big Commercial sign shops have discolored old stuff sittting around. It becomes almost hazardous waste.

[@mikehammond8244]

What's the tallest form you can put in there?

[@Toms_Wood_and_Leather]

Cedar Elm is just a nasty tree period.

[@michaelanthony9905]

The legs look like Hackberry to me 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️

[@JorgeMarioManuelOrtega]

wood=twist

[@deanlowther4020]

Don't burn it Turn it

[@johnnyutah1053]

First?!

[@singe81]

Second lol.

[@MrErViLi]

I think the perspective of the wood theory is funny. You look at the wood as gross and as a wood turner I look at that wood with desire. That would make absolutely beautiful turned pieces. The fact you're going to paint it, paid pains me.

[@BobChristenson51]

Nothing is “perfectly” anything. There’s a tolerance.

[@troyqueen9503]

When working with laminate put the curl length wise, it will give it more rigidity and you will also have a sight line for alignment .👍📐🇨🇦