Building Laundry Cabinets From Scratch

[@simonmarkham4626]

I’m a kitchen fitter from the UK, you’ve done really well considering it’s not something you’re used to doing. Our units are mostly pre made and are almost never made to a standard that you’ve achieved here, you should be very proud of yourself 👍🏻

[@Carpenterdon]

Scott, a tip for laser leveling when setting cabinets. Find the high spot on the floor in the room or area you're placing the cabinets. At that point set the laser line to the height of the cabinet plus a fixed dimension of choice, I usually go 2 inches. Cut a block that fixed dimension. When you set the bases now you just shim to that height using the block on all four corners. Shim till each point has the laser line touching the top of your block. Once set up you no longer need to measure or use a level. And you can start at any point in the room and still come out fine with an out of level floor since you set the baseline(laser) to the high point already. I've been doing this for several years now setting commercial cabinets in kitchens or offices. Makes install go faster and more accurate over a large space. And multiple installers can work on the same cabinet height at different points of the room and everything lines up perfectly.

[@davetaylor4741]

If you have fixed size kickers and some large low spots what do you do with the gaps.

[@frameriteairdrie578]

That's what I like to do. But I don't measure the block, I just set the line too high, then sit a block the cabinet high point then draw a line on the block and then move it to each corner and adjust until the pencil line hits the laser.

[@nathantarr7308]

@@davetaylor4741 always start at the low point not the high point if you have a fixed kick board size

[@nathantarr7308]

@@davetaylor4741 if you have large gaps between the bottom of the kick face and the floor then you should scribe in the kick board to get rid of the gaps and you will be left with an even gap between the top of the kicker and the bottom of the cabinet which you will only see if you get on all fours and look under the cabinet.

[@wytas20]

@@nathantarr7308 If you start at the low point of the floor, by the time you hit the high point wouldn't you be trimming the bottom of the cabinet to make it level?

[@errolharriott2889]

there is a saying in the UK and its - WITH GLUE AND DUST WE PUT OUR TRUST -, glad you concur Scott. PS, you never said Scott Brown here😇... Respect to you Sir...

[@denty32]

I was just going to comment on the no “Scott Brown here” you beat me to it my man

[@vjaneczko]

Awesome! A new "Scott Brown Here" video as I'm wearing my Scott Brown Carpentry t-shirt. Good times . . . .

[@lulzcoptor]

Heya Scott, been watching your stuff for years from sunny ol Christchurch. Just wanted to say, as a NZ consumer and viewer of your videos, the "Advertisement" banner required under NZ law for gifted products is awesome. Knowing when you use a tool because you chose it vs when it is given to you, is mint. Keep up the good work, hope you guys are staying safe up there. Ka pai

[@novosib9017]

why does your Government (and Australian) Gov create so many small rules?...every day life and action is becoming subject to law year by year.

[@joshcook8586]

@@novosib9017 It’s much better knowing if he has received it for free or has he actually paid for it.

[@novosib9017]

@@joshcook8586 iam not understanding why it should be anyone's business? - let alone a law for it..

[@TheMatadrum]

@@novosib9017 I understand that it's easy to perceive it as over governing. Realistically, it's encouraging full transparency among people and organisations as a form of consumer protection. In Australia, obviously this is regulated by the ACCC, which does a really good job (compared to most other countries in the world) of forcing companies to treat consumers fairly and honestly. You weigh it up, advantages vs. disadvantages.

[@tobiasnunya4034]

@@novosib9017 because sometimes items/tools are given to youtubers with an unspoken yet implicit expectation of showing off the product and using it as a kind of advertisement, this leaves not alot of wiggle room and people like to know the difference between those tools and tools that are a particular youtubers favourite go to item.

[@danielcanfield8650]

I Shit myself when you turned away from that propped up cabinet haha risky business

[@RogueSecret]

Tips, when using new and sharp hole saws on hard stuff like plywood with a strong battery drill like that, drive it in reverse in the start :) And when changing to the right way again, put the hand or your legg on the right side of the battery and dont put on to much presure in the beggining:) As a bonus the laminat wont crack and jump of around the hole also :)

[@effervescence5664]

Also good practice to use the combi drill on a torque setting rather than just drill as it'll bring the clutch in rather than kick. Good for any holes that need to be cut in finished surfaces or plastered ceilings.

[@zackfishle1009]

@@effervescence5664 Yup. Those new strong drills will hurt you if you are not careful

[@daveperkins2927]

When installing uppers, use French cleats, it makes life soooo much easier. Good job on the cabinets considering you don't have a workshop and machine tools. 👍👍

[@Blobjonblob]

That Makita drill is no joke lots of power. I was drilling in a concrete screw and it must have hit something the drill span around and clocked me right in the nose.

[@johnny_reynolds4171]

When you was hanging the wall cabinets I was cringing thinking please dont but them to the cieling as the doors won't be able to open because from what looks like a loft hatch lol ..... you did it perfect however aha , I should never have doubted , great job 👍

[@hardyvanwyk7832]

For wall units I use a 19x19mm white aluminium angle that get fixed on the wall at the bottom height of the units. Vertical leg of angle facing up, out of site. Now you have a level cleat to rest the units onto whilst you fix. The angle is cheap and no client has ever seen or mentioned it. I use it for floating bathroom vanities too.

[@davidlowson100]

Scott, for that routing you might want to consider a spiral compression bit. It has both an up cut and down cut spiral setup ,so that both sides of the ply are cut in the correct direction cleanly.

[@kevinbowman22w]

Agreed, David has it right.

[@churwck]

The router bits you’re thinking of are spiral bits - there are 3 different types- up cuts, down cuts, or compression - they all have different benefits Jonathan cats mozez has a good video on it - carbatec sell the spiral bits here in nz!

[@novosib9017]

cut a whole, 2 storey saw tooth staircase in 5 hours with a compression bit. Best $90 i have ever spent.

[@nathantarr7308]

Also used for CNC routers. Can be re-sharpened for $20-$30

[@mmorr16820]

Definately want to go a compression bit for cabinetry like this so you get 2 clean edges and don't end up blowing one out

[@plewaconstruction23]

Quick tip Scott! Install uppers first, makes life a lot easier to get underneath them and hold them up! Other wise, great video as always. Keep chuckin!

[@Gottesacker86]

That and a French Cleat on the wall would make hanging them a lot easier too! No need to fuss with those lifters if the cleat is on the wall level and you can just drop it on.

[@VinceW187]

Great tip!

[@robertbamford8266]

Actually a contentious topic around here. What to install first?

[@serge.crispino418]

@@robertbamford8266 - floor cabinets first for obvious reasons.

[@allanwalker5305]

+1 to this, i came to the comments to say this too.

[@arrianheron3430]

Perhaps doing French cleats for the top would have been a far easier one man install - that’s what I do when hanging wall cabinets and it leaves no visible fixings. A technique often used on super yacht cabinetry.

[@apsilonblue]

I did my first ever wall hanging cabinets around this time last year and was solo. Didn't have those jacks either so decided to try a french cleat which was also a first for me. They haven't fallen on me yet.

[@WhangaFish]

My work never use french cleats for wall hung cabinets, and it drives me nuts! So much easier when you're installin on your own. No more balancing a unit with one hand and stretching out with the other hand to get a screw in (only to miss the stud anyway 🤣, never happened).

[@kampjes]

You couldn't mount snug to the ceiling with a French cleat though and those cabinets are very close to the ceiling (spaced down so the door doesn't clash with the roof access by the looks of it).

[@arrianheron3430]

@@kampjes in that case you could have slid the cabinet from one side on to the French cleat as there was room to the right. Then install a dress panel after.

[@kizzjd9578]

I cut 2 bits of timber haha

[@mandyleeson1]

Hi Scott, learning a lot from this series, not only from the videos, but also the suggestions in the comments. Lovely work, as usual. Thank you.

[@MBSK-xw4ff]

I think that the depth and technology of the job is very good, I think it is the fruit of effort and passion, I am proud, I respect you, I hope you will succeed deeply in your heart👍👍🧹👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@peterharkness3547]

You know when you're doing well, when you get free stuff. This is the advantage when you have a carpenter doing the work in your house. You get all these nice little touches like live edges. If it was a kitchen company (and they do a nice job) you get the kitchen that everybody else has. We had Stevie Sim (in Scotland) did ours 20 years ago. It still looks great and I still love the "little touches" that he did while building it. I enjoy you work and videos, son. you and Quickie make my day !!!

[@blakjaknz]

As an Aucklander now based in Wellington I always enjoy your B roll showing neighborhoods I'm familiar with. Ellerslie main street at the end made me a little homesick! Love your work and production values. Kia Ora.

[@wojtekwieczorek6845]

Hi Scott.Im a wardrobe fitter with 30 years exp. from Ireland,fitted so many kitchen and its very good way to hang upper cabinets to use 45 degrees buttons on wall and the same on cabinets on opposite. Anyway Im a Polsh and I never knew that way in my country. Hope You well.

[@michiganengineer8621]

I've done something similar when sealing/closing the gaps in the edges of plywood. The main difference is I usually mix the sawdust+glue a bit thinner so it works in deeper and then pour some loose sawdust onto the exposed glue. After it's dried, sand everything smooth!. . Obviously those cabinets were demanding a blood offering Scott, Ia! Cthulhu!

[@rayl2729]

Never though I would see the day where I hear Scott say a curse word! If that line comes out on a Scott Brown shirt, I’m DEFINITELY buying one for each member of my family!!! Keep up the awesome content Scott! Love what you do from Melbourne, Florida.

[@TheJackalope312]

That was one sick move going for the drill with that cabinet on the jacks. Faith or Skill? I think you've got the skill, boss!

[@ToraKwai]

i always put a torque setting on when using the holesaws, rip your arm off when they snag otherwise

[@zeroyon4562]

I’m surprised it bit that hard with wood! Too many rpm’s perhaps. We use holesaws a lot on 3mm and 4mm thick stainless at work, up to 114mm dia. Going low and slow is the key. No clutch, just hold on tight.

[@ToraKwai]

@@zeroyon4562 yeah, can grab like that really easily going through units, I use a 115mm fairly regularly to cut holes in kitchen units for extractor fans, only needed that to snag once before using clutch forevermore. Knackered my wrist for days

[@love4riding100]

I did that the other day drilling a 150mm hole ! I've learnt my lesson, and use the side handle, low speed and on clutch or screwdriver setting

[@thewoofworker6840]

The best router bit for that kind of stuff is a spiral down cut bit. Leaves no tear out and never gets blunt.

[@johnmarks2296]

It’s easier to screw batten to the wall and lift the wall unit onto it to fix the remove the batten 👍

[@robertwayne3567]

... and hang the uppers first.

[@matthewwarner9553]

I am a little confused, if all the packers for the overhead cabinets are the same because the walls are straight. Why pack them at all??

[@122richy]

@@matthewwarner9553 probably the spots between the packers vary. So the cabinet would "rock" along it's back panel. So say you fix the left side, the right side might have a gap behind it.

[@noskills9577]

Spiral bits are available for routers (not just mills). Upcut and down cut - and can be had in solid carbide if you can afford it. Usually some cheapo ones on Amazon if you fancy some to play about with.

[@jaypeeters]

After hanging those upper cabinets on your own. Theres a frame where you have the tag Merlin above your head. I think its for the garage door. Anyway that made me chuckle.

[@amuongosia624]

Hi Scott, yes hole saw drill bits do kick out if you don’t know lol, now you know lol Some installers start on the wall cabinet first, save your back from leaning forward. Tip: Best to start installing base cabinets from the lowest level point to high side. So you have some meat on the toe kick to scribe too.

[@zacjohnson19]

Perfect timing. Mrs wants cabinets in the garage so might as well give that a crack. Thanks mate.

[@amarjitbatchu308]

Great job Scott I agree with the French cleat system, it makes installing the top cabinets a breeze and adds far more strength to the weight load distribution.

[@VincentParrett]

What, no "Scott Brown here" ! Love your work!

[@TheHandyTech]

Anyone else appreciate Scotts editing at 10:55 ? Nice work bro, an almost percussive beat in time with the background music

[@davidkelly1634]

Hey Scott, thanks for keeping the content coming. I was putting in some cabinets in my daughters new place at the weekend. I got to use my wee inflatable bag tool for some fine adjusting on the height of the base cabinets. It’s the winbag that you had recommended in a previous video, and it worked a treat. Cheers.

[@kyzenlanx]

Hey bro, pro hole saw tip I devised for anything with an anti-abrasion layer (melamine, coated ply, etc), I even do it with plaster for a crisp edge. Once the arbor's pilot bit is through, put your drill in reverse. You're now essentially scoring the hard surface layer (or plaster paper) with a negative rake saw. It won't grab/chip/tear the surface, will leave you with a nice clean hole. Once you're through, turn your drill back to forwards, and carry on. I find this method safer and gives a better finish. Win/Win! Cheers, Kenny🤙

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

Cheers Ken! Any jigs for Kitchen door hinges ? 😉

[@ckcuev]

@@ScottBrownCarpentry kreg makes a jig for kitchen door hinges

[@TheToolnut]

@@ckcuev The Kreg hinge jig is excellent 👍🔨🇮🇪

[@ckcuev]

@@TheToolnut most definitely

[@kyzenlanx]

@@ScottBrownCarpentry I have been thinking about doing a jig for euro hinges, be easier and cheaper than having to use a forstner bit 🤙 Be happy to whack out a few prototypes for you! 👍

[@theScamBKLYN]

I think you are looking for an upcut spiral bit for cutting dados or rabbets with a hand held router. The spiral helps clear chips up. There are also compression bits that are a upcut and downcut combined, but I have no experience with those.

[@unusualpond]

You took a lot of care on that checkout in a spot that the clients will never see. I do that on the table saw with final inch by jap handsaw. Kudos to you for getting it perfect though.

[@orlandomartinez4031]

Nice work, really like them adjustable feet you used on them upper cabinets. Here we like to do the upper cabinets first so nothing is in the way or damage the lower cabinets.

[@SebastiaanMollema]

This is nice scott, great job so far. Without the lifting support the birchplywood boxes are super heavy, i can feel the strain in the shoulders while wathing you carry them haha.

[@aurotapusoa4632]

Love your work "Scott Brown here"....the mans bro!! too much

[@bartnettle]

Well Done,! Looks adequately perfect

[@zacpreece6417]

Loving everyone being helpful and giving suggestions to help Scott but this mans amazing no matter what he does it’s the best

[@BonsaiRecords]

14:31 min that was brave. ;) greetings from Germany. I like your videostyle music, cutting and whole work. Thanks Mate

[@iainarthur7713]

Just my thoughts:) If that was me it would have fallen though

[@daves4026]

Hi Scott I was given a tip which was as long as the base cabinets are level then make and use another box to sit the upper cabinet on, no need for stands and always at the right height. Normally the uppers go on at a standard 3 tiles above the work top😉 hope it helps

[@ParalelCosmos]

Shiiiiiiit .... this guy tools for real! BTW, nice low key F-Bomb there Scotty 😀

[@tonyalways7174]

That is immaculate work and astonishing attention to detail. Not many tradies would take it to that level 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@keeranhendricks8120]

Soon Scott brown carpentry will become Scott brown cabinet making

[@graham898]

For cabinet installs I have always started from the top down. I would screw a 2x4 flat along the level line. This gave something for the cabinets to sit on so I didn't have to fully support their weight. The plaster board damage as always minimum since I used 3 screw max and never cranked them down.

[@slowly_radish8374]

Learning new skills trial & error method while on camera. Well done Sir. 👍👍

[@thomasDLC]

Lucky your hand was in the way so you didn't damage the cabinet! Nice save

[@PeteHansen13]

When setting uppers above your base cabs that are already plum and level, I’ve always found it easier to build a box that is maybe half the depth of your upper, and to the height at which you want the bottom of your upper to be from your base cab. This way, u don’t have to screw a ledger to the wall and deal with patching those holes, and you don’t have to screw anything in the bottom of your upper cab. If you’ve set your base cabs right, you just set your box you’ve made on top, and there you have a nice level place to set your upper cab on. And you just re use it right on down the line. Hope that makes sense! Cheers!

[@thomascairnduff5751]

I just installed my mum and dads cabinets and i never thought to draw a level line on the wall, i spent so much time lifting the legs higher and using a level from one cabinet to the other lol. you live you learn

[@Str4ndB3rg]

Where i work we put a small lumber piece exactly under the bottom piece. That way the cabinets are always leveled. Sorry bad english

[@charleselkins4546]

Spring in New Zealand looks lovely.

[@tadasstrikauskas1205]

Thanks Scott. I guess there is nothing you can't do. Only learn and try. Good luck.

[@lissataylor12345]

So glad you are back to work! Fun to see the cabinet build.

[@flightographist]

Well, shiver me timbers, exposed plywood edge- nice! Next up , re-sawn herringbone applied plywood edges, so there! Madness can have method. Compounding labs in Pharmacies are a weird and wonderful environment to create in- all those tini-tiny drawers.

[@darrenpaulgreen]

Hats off to you doing all that on your own Scott, I’ve fitted a lot of kitchens over here in the uk but always a struggle when you work solo - I had to hold my breath when you stepped away from the propped up wall units to grab another prop 🙈!

[@izzychen7537]

Good stuff! Have you considered using french cleats for hanging the upper cabinets? That would have enabled you to level the cleats on the wall and lift up the cabinets without additional assistance. Gravity FTW!

[@3house325]

Nice to see the laser I use in your hands Scott. Too bad it wasn't free for me tho. 😃

[@jboyd85]

Neat feet! Always strange to see how different your scope of work is in NZ. In Canada, half (at least) of my work as a builder is kitchens and bathrooms. Demo through to plaster and tile. The solution of choice around these parts is a 2x4 ledger. Set that level and to the right height and your uppers are well-supported as your screw 'em in. In seriousness, the workmanship I see on this channel helps me keep my standards high. Thanks mate!

[@jamesworth183]

Hi Scott, Surprised you did not use french cleats to hang the upper cabinet’s. Stronger, better support, and certainly less strain on you and your back and perhaps a lot safer than balancing them on those adjustable leg thingies. Still a great show.

[@mariusdewaal5536]

Akso thought french cleats will work better

[@NathanaelJohnson]

But fun to see the highly competent Scott struggle a little like I do!

[@terrytopliss9506]

The perils of cabinet fitting Scott,when I fitted my kitchen I made a cube to fit the space between the cabinets and just sat the wall cabinet on top and fixed.

[@p1kto]

A downward cut spiral bit gives a nice clean edge on the melamine

[@anthonys8947]

I love those cabinet jacks. We have cheap labour instead.

[@beerkobe]

earliest ive ever been for a video

[@Arr667]

Hey Scott, coming along great. Looking forward to seeing it all wrapped up with doors and hardware Levelling uppers a quick easy way is to use Stack sustainers and some spare plinth feet you can adjust is a much easier way :) No need to screw into your cabs. We all live and learn which is what’s awesome about channels like yours to share experiences and knowledge

[@ianmoss20102010]

Scott , some Bosch drills come with anti-kickback senor which will stop the drill when it senses a sudden movement I have one and it's saved my hands a couple of times. Reach out to Bosch and ask them to send you one.

[@micssticksnpipes]

Wow that gave you the lasers! I just bought the m12 one it cost ££££ here in uk! Very good though and great to change batteries when you need to.

[@youtrades]

That was fun! Brought me back to my first time with a whole kitchen of customs:)).

[@terrygleeson5429]

As a cabinet maker myself, I’d put the backs the same thickness as the sides and base and fit between the carcass sides. Makes for a much stiffer box. Doing a good job for a chippy though😎

[@donnyekaputra1991]

looking on your video, only to convince myself for a career changing here. thank you for the inspiration 🤙🏽

[@robynb.802]

Hey Scott, what you called HPL is just the stuff thats on the very top/bottom of those layers which feels like synthetic material. The wooden part inbetween is actually just higher quality plywood, which is why it looks better than the other stuff.

[@robynb.802]

Also you could still make a middle section in the sink cabinet, just not the full depth. Instead make it the depth of the horizontal part on the top. That way the sink still fits in and it gives you more support for the horizontal one when somebody is leaning onto it to get something from the upper cabinets than your horizontal lower one. But as per usual, great video. Really enjoyed you working and the engaging energy you bring across so well.

[@allenschmid908]

SBC (and Cabinetry), episode 313 is another hit! Thanks for sharing your handiwork. Allen

[@BarneyTrent]

Top quality work, take a bow 👏🏽👏🏽

[@frameriteairdrie578]

Those hole saws often work better when set on the lower speeds.

[@dylanm3519]

they work fine at any speed, so long as there is a drill handle involved. I've slowed the speed of my drill before and the torque can also almost break your wrist with those hole saws.

[@Pepe-dq2ib]

@@dylanm3519 if the hole is under 4", i just use a forstner bit.

[@dylanm3519]

@@Pepe-dq2ib Forstner bits can be useful. But torque can also snap them, depending on what one is drilling through.

[@the-elliott-day]

The tips in the comments are just as good - if not better - than the entertainment itself! Thanks to everyone in the comments & of course SBC, always a joy to watch you work! 👍🪚🔨

[@stuartandrews4344]

I've just replaced chuck on my 1/2" router with a 'Musclechuck',it's a Quick Change Chuck for 1/2" routers, just brilliant,,so much easier changing bits,no more the spanners😁

[@frankblack1481]

I think the new Festool drill has a feature whereby, if the drillbit (or holesaw) gets caught up, then the motor cuts out instantly - thus preventing the injury you experienced.

[@heimdall4148]

Makita has that on their battery angle grinders so they know how to implement that. Makes me wonder why they did not implement it in their 40v drills.

[@paulwhitting4953]

Hi Scott, set the clutch on the drill (which no one does) when drilling large diameter holes & you won’t get snatch back again. 👍

[@jtrthehax]

Yea, I used the drill function at one point and it kept binding and ripped my arm every time. I learned later on it probably would have been preferable to set the clutch so the drill would have stopped. The few times with the "drill" that you don't want it set to "drill" clutch setting

[@henry67278]

i agree

[@ackec-umsekkruch-ekucki952]

Or drill in reverse gear at least to get started. I use diamond coated whole saws for cabinets because they have no teeth. They work great to drill through the thin hardboard or MDF and there's no binding. And you end up with a clean cut on both sides.

[@Sjf542]

Lovely round-over on that plywood edge 👌

[@johnmcmahon76]

When using a holesaw get the pilot bit in then run the drill in reverse for a second to "score" the material

[@jacobeshack9241]

Quick tip for you when hanging uppers. Clamp a block on the top of the cabinet that overhangs slightly. This will allow you to get the faces of the cabinet flush too and bottom. Love your content buddy. Ps. Always find the high spot of the floor first😉

[@maxiepax99]

Scott, even though there is some content about you quitting school and becoming an apprentice, it would be very interesting if you did an episode about yourself, your wife, paudau (spelling?). Are you a Kiwi? Sometimes you've spoken about brittish building standards as if you've lived there? After watching 300 episodes it would just be nice to know a bit more about you as a person :) Thank you for awesome videos, you are entertaining, delightful and i've learned a lot!

[@andrewcruickshank7463]

The router bits you’re after are carbide spiral bits. Thee types up cut, down cut, and compression (mix of up and down cut). For use on veneers and melamine etc I’d recommend a down cut to keep the chipping down on surface. Down side is bottom of groove will be a bit rougher. If you need a sweet dado or groove then the up cut is the go as it flings up the chips for a clean surface on the groove bottom. Compression bits sit in the middle and are good for a ‘mixed job’. Any one of the three will do a better job than the straight bit you used ;) can find them in all sorts of places. Carb-I-tool is a good compromise between quality and cost in AUSNZ. Good luck and don’t be put off by price. They’re HEAPS better :)

[@satchmodog2]

How do you like that Makita? I finally bought the big Kreg router table to dedicate my big porter cable routers into 2 tables and picked up the little makita for smaller work. I solely went Makita because I picked up another tool that came with 2 batteries and a charger and didn't want those batteries to get lonely haha. I also picked up the plunge kit and I want to say it was all less than 200 US fiat dollars

[@MrGatter]

Hey Scott, you should check out compression bits for your router if you haven’t already. It will prevent chip/tear-out on the top and bottom and leaves a smooth edge.

[@verlicht]

Hi scott, Just a tip. When you use your lasers for installing cabinets, it's nice to have the laser 10cm higher than what you need and measure down with a block from that line to make it perfect. you'll save yourself a lot of headache and have more perfect results in the end.

[@hansangb]

Whenever I watch Perkins Brothers doing cabinets, they always start with the top. So you don't have to leverage over the bottom pieces. Maybe a sawhorse for the jacks so you could used the tool and have the clearance at the bottom? Well done, BTW.

[@grizdeluxe]

35 year cabinet guy here. ALWAYS do bases first. It's too difficult to find the exact high spot on the floor. Setting the bases first eliminates that, and you can get an exact height off the base cabs for your uppers. It allows for a much more accurate consistent install.

[@markpalmer3071]

Those spiral up and down router bits would do the trick nicely.

[@ravenousvisages]

I’m wanting to set front load machines at middle height in my mudroom. I like to set a good size tub sink next to the wash to catch overflow if the drain happens to clog during a wash. Have you guys got the heat pump type dryers there? I’m also getting the heat pump water heater with ducting- maybe I can exchange heat from my refrigerator in the kitchen directly above. Fridge costs about $80/year and that water heater is supposed to cost $104/year, so maybe I can cut both down another half? Anyway. Cabinets- yay! I’ve worked in a CNC run cabinet shop. You don’t need a CNC shop. Spiral shanks are nice tho! I’m always surprised to get a flat surface since it’s so… angular. Rabbits- I find it faster to use the track saw to cut my exact line, then clean up with the router. Instead of a table, I cut right on the stack of ply, lifting the work piece on stickers. Track saw all the way. You need three times the room with table saw, and you’re likely to get a back injury. You’ve not used 1/4 inch ply as backer for good reason- price is not reduced enough, plus thicker backer saves time from having to make cleats. Saves time on rabbits too. Bold move. I usually put a screw or nail standing proud right on the level line, (helps to verify stud locations too) and start cabinet hanging (uppers first) from the corner. A couple screws hold most of the weight while I tap the cabinet to the wall. Very simple one man technique. Any holes are easily hidden with a caulk seam under the cabinet. I like the clamps you got tho. Might give that a whirl. Good job mate!

[@robertfrost5020]

HI -one way you can fit the top cabinets easily is to fit a horizontal cleat along the top edge and one along the wall - as long as the cabinet is square and the cleat level it pops straight on. Modern hanging hardware for kitchen units are only an adjustable adaptation on this. Rip a timber down the middle at 45 degrees - fit one to the wall the other to the cabinet - it will fit perfectly and never be seen. I have seen it done with 12mm ply - it doesn't need to be thick and will take a lot of weight as it's spread over a large area.

[@utos1]

Hi Scott, try use the lamello make it a lot easier. Self clamping system its amazing tools

[@gbeats1988]

Thanks for using my music and giving credit! Cheers! Grumble

[@michaeljacobs9613]

Ooooff. That bash at the end. I tend to wedge/touch the drill against where it will contact if it hits (after mashing my hands like so as well). If you were standing it would be braced against your leg :D Love the cabinetry stuff though!

[@DikkieKlijn]

Hi Scott! Hanging upper cabinets on french cleats makes them super easy to install! You can fasten them further father hanging them on the cleat. Excited for the next episode!

[@mattreed5185]

a tip for hanging top cupboard set your stand prior to putting up the cupboard just a few mm short of your desired height then put them under after and adjust from there

[@susann4209]

You should try an impact with hole saws, it’s great because it doesn’t try to rip your arms off

[@katrinabell7684]

Excellent cabinetry. Good tips . An interesting video Scott of SBC.😷😵‍💫

[@keeranhendricks8120]

Keep up the good work scott