Building The Fastest Chinese Road Bike | Full Review

[@PatrickLino]

Got my lotion, candle, and tube sock ready...

[@PeakTorque]

Please explain to me? I am young and nubile.

[@JibbaJabber]

Really? I had you as a carbon paste, compressor, tpu kinda guy.

[@jimmynickelz]

Brah...you are a mess😂😂😂😂

[@scottwatson7844]

😂

[@blabot]

Because the seat post is hard to fit??

[@PeakTorque]

Decent video mate. Agree with Jared on the internal routing. Frame was fine but for me bars and fork internally were crusty as hell (which is normal on most forks as they’re not eps moulded). I dont think you bb issue was fixed though, its a work around using a plastic one but its still too tight long term you may get bearing issues. Get a fair bit of brake hose rattling in the downtube too which i wish theyd ship some pipe lagging in for the build which other brands do. Costs nothing

[@magnusc]

Agree. Calling the frame «Good» when it got an undersized PFBB is quite ridiculous. This is most likely going to get worse and he’ll get creaking and spindle wear. This frame should have been sent directly to Hambini.

[@The_Normalised_Cyclist]

Any info about the CRW wheels regarding carbon spokes being enclosed in the hub? Following the video about redundancy in the design to make the wheel safe rather than break off and introducing yourself to the pavement. Maybe ima just lazy but didn’t find any info on this on panda podium web

[@PeakTorque]

@@The_Normalised_Cyclist yeh they are threaded in. Cannot come out.

[@mtanski1]

Having to "downgrade" the BB would cap it at 7 for me. I like the paint job a lot on this bike, but given this, lack of cable guides. I don't see an upside of this frame compared to say a much cheaper Light Carbon frame, which doesn't have either one of those problems.

[@Fresh79999]

@@PeakTorque How that design gets sign off is nuts to me...

[@ZenGarage]

Good video Jesse. Whilst I still think (for the money) that the frame should not have the BB issues I'm happy that you're happy. Bottom line is that IMHO you're the real deal; unlike many KZbinrs out there you actually race (congrats on the win last month at Heffron!) and I respect that.

[@PatrickLino]

Also, the chain line on 12 speed Shimano Di2 is different than 11 speed. Hence the FD shifting issues. And the problem is amplified with non-Shimano chain rings. There are reddit threads addressing this. It's not a matter of incompatibility, but rather inconsistent shifting under full load.

[@nerocoaching]

Makes sense... Although the chainrings say they are specifically designed for "R92-8100" which means 12 spd which should have taken into account the different chainline I would have thought

[@jonasha8712]

I use an 11sp Rotor crank and 12sp chainrings and never had any problems on three differnent frames. It is only 1mm chainline difference between 11sp and 12sp. There is much more deviation of the FD hanger position between different frames.

[@Adonis-qj1nq]

@@nerocoaching I have the same issue with stock Ultegra crankset/chainrings on my 12 speed r8100. I have to back off the power ever so slightly to shift up to the big chainring under heavy load (especially during climbs). Never had any issues shifting under load on mechanical Ultegra.

[@simple4586]

​@@nerocoaching It only takes in account the tooth spacing. It doesn't correct for chainline. As frames differ, there're rings that have set differing offsets to use per specific need.

[@jeremys2159]

​@@simple4586 I don't think it's the chainline - my suspicion is the rectangular shift blocks that both Shimano and the newer carbon Ti chainrings use. It's a big Fail for the chainrings from Pass Quest. I spent a considerable amount of time adjusting derailleur. I'm also a decent mechanic. They do shift but very poorly under load - it's frustrating they are marketed as being compatible with 12 speed Shimano. I've contacted them to try and return but we'll see how that works out. @nerocoaching you are dreaming if these are 10/10.

[@greghart6310]

Best bike reviews ever. Props Jesse!👏

[@valmorell]

I really like this analysis J. You have managed to resist making it too precious. None of this ' headset bearings are 0.1mm out' rubbish. Totally realistic across the board. I would buy this frame. Groupset? Probably. Cassette? Yes, really happy with cost saving. Nice video thanks...

[@nachoortega8973]

Just Amazing. My respects Jesse. The best video of the year by far. Sincerity is appreciated about the groupset that Shimano shifts better. Amazing frame, wheels, handlebar... I love that

[@Adonis-qj1nq]

Great thorough review Jesse, lots of good info. Also in case you missed the comment I left under a previous Nero show, the Shimano hydraulic levers (in Ultegra and Dura Ace) have both a free stroke and reach adjustment, so you can equalize the bite point and even reduce the pull by adjusting the free stroke bolt. Make sure to loose the reach before setting the free stroke and then finalize the reach with the reach adjustment bolt.

[@nerocoaching]

Thanks mate, I did see that, I'll have a play around with it!

[@1337aznpro]

awesome video Jesse. I mostly liked the video cause I loved hearing about all these chinese parts. Thanks for putting your time into this!!

[@MBdrummer3288]

That is one GOOD LOOKING machine dude! And those wheels look absolutely amazing. I want to take a spin on that ride like there’s no tomorrow! Nice video Jesse!

[@mtndogdad]

omw to centennial park from LA to watch Jesse drop all the SL8's doing laps

[@allenmcrae4333]

I used the saddle you are recommending on my mountain bike. It cracked about half way down on the part you sit on in one ride. Would probably be fine on a road bike

[@jack.palombo]

Great video and I always like how you go into the details. Have a pair of the CRW 5060s and they do very well in the winds in Dubai. Noted the issue with the front shifting with the 56T. I’d recommend trying a front derailleur spacer (aerocoach sells one as an example) instead of the fix you tried to do with shaving down the hanger. I bought one myself but have not yet switched as I’m currently running a 55T and the 12s DA fits it and I think is the largest chainring it supports. A teammate of mine runs one with his 58T and seems to be solid. I’m assuming the spacer will help align the FD with the circumference of the chainrings a bit better. Worth a try at least. Love the vids and the Nero show. Long time listener - great stuff!

[@Matthewg-yn9vx]

Just built up my tavelo arow. Shimano 105 di2. No6 wheels. Absolutely loving it

[@hcw199]

Why wouldn't you? All carbon bikes are practically the same.

[@william2788]

Something to try for your chainring issue is maybe experiment with a different non shimano 12 speed chain (e.g. kmc 12 speed). If you put an 12 speed shimano chain on an 11 speed shimano groupset, it will completely work with the rear shift but with the front, it is a tad slower and you need to back off some. If you inspect a shimano 12 speed crankset vs an 11 speed, you can see they moved the ramp pins closer together. If you then use the 12 speed crankset with 12 speed chain and the rest 11 speed, everything will work well. So my hypothesis is that maybe the spacing of the pass quest shift pins is good for 11 speed but not good for the 12 speed chain, similar to how 11 speed shimano chainrings aren't perfect when using 12 speed chain.

[@mat_from_ballarat]

Thanks for the video Jesse. I'm saddened by the positive results and speed gain. Partly due to riding a TCR the same as yours. I now feel even more compelled to 'upgrade' to something faster and more comfortable, although I'm still very attached to the TCR.

[@Pablo_Coach]

Maybe SL8 ?

[@mat_from_ballarat]

​@@Pablo_CoachI'm not a dentist and am paid accordingly.

[@Pablo_Coach]

@@mat_from_ballarat I say SL8 10r grade carbon frame, not s-works. Ligtweight and less money☝️

[@66mikkim]

I had the same approach last November.....A China Build to save a buttload of Cash. Ordered a Elves Falath EVO frame set with the handlebars and the TH50D wheelset. Hooked it up with 105 DI2, Assioma pedals, 28mm GP5000, and the exact same Ryet saddle. Build cost was 3385€ Got 4700km on this setup so far, and still loving it every time i go for a ride. If your are not that guy "that gets a new bike every year" it makes absolutly no sense to buy a western Brand if you going full custom anyways.

[@nerocoaching]

Very nice. What size did you get and what did the weight come to? That's a great price

[@66mikkim]

@@nerocoaching I am 179 and got the 54. With the Assioma pedals bottlecages und the garmin mount it´s at 8,38Kg. The frame set itself is quite heavy at around 1240 grams. With CRW Wheels and Dura Ace i could probably get it down to 7,6Kg. But i don´t race anymore, for fast paced group rides it is more than i need. Still hitting PB´s and some Koms once in a while ;-)

[@DR_1_1]

You can get a "Western branded" Cube Attain for less than 3000 € with Ultegra Di2, full carbon, 7.9 kg (without pedals)...

[@66mikkim]

@@DR_1_1 The Attain is not a full out aero bike, it is a endurance frame( and to heavy in that case) + In my opinion its ugly. You cant get it with 170mm cranks or a 38cm stem. which means you have to spend extra on that.

[@DR_1_1]

​@@66mikkim 7.9 kilos is not that heavy, 170 mm cranks come with size 50 and 53...

[@yarlon2014]

Great choice for saddle. Using it for months. Best saddle ever coming from a pro stealth. Nice!

[@am7jeremy]

My 28mm tire on the CRW 25mm internal came up to 30.5mm. Worth mentioning CRW provides the lightest lockring so far.

[@MrJaycobsen]

Very thorough review. I would like to see you review some other bikes down the line too. Would be interesting to get a comparison of a top end western brand.

[@simple4586]

Passquest is good. I've used them with no problems on 11 and 12 speed configs but not on Di2. I'd suggest to make sure that chainline is to a T for 12 speed. Chainline is different from 11. 12 speed is a lot less forgiving with chainline. Try adding a spacer to test things out. If q factor ain't that big of a diff, feel free to let it stay. Or, use a offset chainring. Check out the height of that FD, maybe. Check the direction of the cage if it is positioned properly and if there's some wiggle, flex, or bends in the mount and cage. Maybe make sure chain is also at proper lengths. I'd doubt its the chainring themselves unless there was possible bend on the teeths. More likely a setup issue, which tends to be when you up the size of rings.

[@nerocoaching]

Thanks will check these and discuss with mechanic

[@PRO10GLOBAL.NO1]

I'm looking forward to your video in six months... "Why I'm going back to the TCR" 😀

[@DRANVR4]

I thought the same thing when I went from rim to disc ….. haven’t looked back. Every so often I’ll get out on my rim brake bike and remind myself why I don’t ride it.

[@82vitt]

Unless there is a major issue with the frame set such as a crack, he won't go back to training/racing on the TCR. Why would he? If he is happy with the performance, the bike isn't slowing him down, but the fatter tires do give him more comfort and confidence when cornering, there is not a single reason why he would want to do that.

[@PRO10GLOBAL.NO1]

@@DRANVR4 Well at least you kept your rim brake bike. That much you've got right 😜 All good mate! Glad you're happy with your new chariot!

[@PRO10GLOBAL.NO1]

@@82vitt Jessie seems like a very switched on guy so we shall see 😉

[@DrFlashburn]

@@DRANVR4 "Every so often I’ll get out on my rim brake bike and remind myself why I don’t ride it." Is that when your pads are contaminated, the brakes need bleeding or you get sick of the horrific sound and rubbing?

[@HarishChouhan]

Building bikes like this is fun. I am not into racing. I rode a trek ALR for a while and wanted a carbon bike. Got myself a Ceepo Mamba R (35mm max tire) at a discounted price, 50mm deep wheels from FARSPORTS with DT240 hubs and aluminium handlebars from FSA. I installed SRAM Rival on it as I wanted electronic shifting. Enjoying the ride and the process

[@neilmckenna236]

Great video Jesse, really enjoyed this process 👍

[@user-dm84]

Super interesting video, thank you! Would really appreciate a 3/6/12 month update to see how these components hold up.

[@jscalabre]

Just to add a data point, I got my Arow in July of 2024, and it came with a Ninja Token Lite BB which retails for $60. I had 0 issues installing it in!

[@angela-onesroman8873]

I love that bb, I have the ceramic TBT variant bb90, awesome...

[@chrismadge7292]

Nice review, in-depth and informative - thanks Jesse

[@jscalabre]

Also, I have the "current edition" L-Twoo eRX (the one with gold decals). I can confirm that it does overshift slightly when going up the cassette to easier gears. So it's an issue on all editions of the L-Twoo not just Jesse's new blue edition.

[@davidfindlay8158]

Good to hear you're liking the CRWs Jessie. Just ordered the 4045s for my Addict RC. Also have a Foil RC so was tempted to go 6575s for that bike, but already have Roval Rapide CLX for it so the lighter weight wheels won out. We are spoiled for choice nowadays 👌

[@yushengchen9323]

Just note that when you are comparing to Giant Propel weight wise, you also need to add the seat post since Giant Propel has the ISP.

[@UselessRandom]

He mentions the pro model doesn't he ? That doesn't have an ISP.

[@ryangolder705]

Yeah no isp on the pro model

[@yushengchen9323]

Yep, my bad, thought he mentioned the Advanced SL 0

[@kevstephen9393]

Enjoyed that review, Jesse. I am looking forward to completing my bike build at the end of the month, ready to put it in the spare bedroom 😂 I went for the CRW Works CS4045 as it's windy and hilly where I live. With 28mm tyres up from 23mm, I have also gone with the 165 crank length.

[@ianswinscoe7678]

It looks awesome, great video and breakdown of all the parts/additions - I think I might put my propel on a weight loss over the winter as a little project

[@frederiksrensen5865]

Nice build. Wheels look amazing. Front tire should be remounted😂🙌🙌

[@hardcheese]

I have the 'old' LTWOO eRx groupset on my new Winspace Agile frameset and so far so great. The shift speed is actually changeable in the app along with the gear tuning. So to compare shift speed you need to make sure the tester has set the speed of shifting to max.

[@richardhutchings1980]

Excellent review. Love the 32mm road tubless tyres.

[@StonerOnLane]

I believe that the chairing problem is a question of FD position, you may have to use a spacer (like oval chairing)

[@jessewhite2226]

On the topic of Groupset: I plan on doing my own build and will probably slap on 105 Mechanical just to avoid electronic issues like you had with the buttons, etc...

[@PeterPutz82]

Great video Jesse, great build 👍

[@toddmcdonough]

I'm an old retro guy but I can appreciate a sleek modern bike when I see one. I've recently tried a narrower flared bar and shorter cranks and both of these have worked out great. The rest of my bike build would be laughed at and deported to a whole different YT comment section. Probably filled with fat tired, cable actuated, amateur metallurgists nursing severe electricity and hydraulic phobias. One thing we bike tech guys will always have in common...no women anywhere.

[@axelrodyao]

Just saw this bike at CP a few days ago. Really eye catching paint!

[@MasteringGrappling]

Thanks for the review. I think the wheels are a great choice. The lack of guides in the frame would be annoying while building. Overall performance seems to be really good minus the group set issues.

[@MrJaycobsen]

No guides in my Tarmac frame either, no need for guides in the frame imo pretty easy to route di2 cables and hydraulic hoses in through the frame. Handlebars was a bit more faff tough, using a pick to grab the hoses like gc performance shows in one of is videos is really helpful.

[@eto2352]

Front shifting: the front mech is too high up on the mounting bracket. I see you had to clearance the hole. Is the bracing grub screw getting good purchase underneath? Does the entire face of the mech mounting have purchase on the bracket or is it "hanging off the top"? What may be happening is that there is too much leverage at the very top of the bracket and it is flexing. Try a smaller chainring and bring the mech down the mount. I'll guess the shifting issue will go away. *for larger chainrings, maybe a custom offset with a bit more beefy design is desirable. Enjoyed hearing all the thoughts on your first disc bike!

[@nerocoaching]

Thanks I’ll chat with mechanic about these points

[@jochembeumer2673]

@@nerocoaching I think in one of the last videos of China Cycling it was referencing the bracing grub screw was screwed in from the wrong side which made it almost impossible to not flex

[@cmaxrasmus]

Thank you for this Jesse 10/10👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾

[@BarePotato]

44:10 Interesting. I own SES6.7 (internal 23mm) with 30c GP5000S TR measures 32.8mm width. SES3.4 (internal 25mm) currently with 32c measures 34.8mm width I think when I put 30c on SES3.4 it was measured 33.8mm ish. Same internal width specced but maybe due to hookless? it measures wider.

[@nerocoaching]

Weird. 30c tyres blowing out to 33.8mm is massive even with a 25mm internal. You may be right, could be from the hookless bead

[@lolbubs11111]

The Cybrei crank 30mm spindle is part of the weight savings. The bigger diameter makes the shape stronger with less material than a narrower spindle. 160g is a relatively small penalty to stick with gold standard Shimano BB and cranks IMO.

[@maxjohnson0703]

Literally saw this let me make some popcorn

[@swites]

6ft2 and 165mm cranks! And here I am worrying about 170's maybe being too short for my 88.5cm inseam. Hmmm...

[@keit273]

I have recently built a race bike, also an eastern frame (trifox) with the 54t Pass Quest chainrings. I have 12 speed Sram AXS rival group and right off the bat I was having trouble shifting the fd from small to big. It probably makes the shift 70% of the time but it has no problems shifting big to small. Im going to take it to the bike shop to fine tune the fd adjustments but I suspect it may be the chainring.

[@miguelduhamel3394]

Very good video ,thank you 👍🏼🏁

[@jameswillett118]

Man I’m bummed about the weight limit on those wheels. Good vid Jesse

[@witepa]

Small correction- the Tavelo Arow specifies a BB86 bottom bracket shell, with a 86mm width. BB30 is a different (slightly antiquated) bottom bracket standard, with a 68mm width. The cybrex crank you have is not a “BB30 crank” - it is simply a crank with a ~30mm diameter. BB30 cranks do exist that only work for the more narrow bottom bracket shell, giving riders a more narrow Q-factor (this is not what you have).

[@FlowBeats888]

Jessie - I have exact same issue with the PasQuest chain rings and ultegra 12s. Shifting to the 54 under load causes chain to jump off

[@jonathanfry2949]

I have a set of Decadence 50mm discs on my 2023 Cannondale Hi-Mod and am after another set of wheels. Would the CRW's be a good alternative as you have experience of riding both sets. Great work on this honest and no bs video. Just what sensible riders need. The Nero gilet is a good design - I have ordered one.

[@nerocoaching]

I've only ridden the rim brake caden wheels, they were very nice. Can't compare to the disc ones though

[@MrNekyno]

Are you worried about running out of the grippy tire thread using the Conti 5k GP 28mm on 25mm internal rim width at high lean angles? Naturally, the tire will be more squared off at the sides than if it was run with 21mm or 23mm internal rim width. That in theory makes the thread not reach as far to the sides reducing the lean angle where the tire provides full grip.

[@discbrakefan]

Just how far over do you think a bike can lean?

[@nerocoaching]

I'm not worried about it

[@MrNekyno]

​@@discbrakefan 40 degrees. Tom Pidcock in full attack.

[@Pablo_Coach]

@@nerocoaching 25 internal are way t oo wide for 28c tyres....

[@migatron7359]

Great vid. Shane you don’t review more bikes, you’re better at this than “full time reviewers”

[@jamonpool3278]

looking at those bars on the tavelo website - it looks like the attachment point for the computer mount is threaded carbon rather than a threaded rivet - thats seems like a potential failure point given the nature of carbon and the forces being applied by the computer mount

[@SosanCheon]

The 65 mm front can be as stable as normal 35~40 mm front, if designed so. We have that in WHEELLAB Korea.

[@nerocoaching]

Interesting. Seems hard to believe, so you have a 35mm and 65mm that have the same crosswind stability? How is that possible. I've never ridden any 60mm+ front wheel that doesn't catch more wind than a 40mm

[@SosanCheon]

@nerocoaching Rim width, shape, radius of curvature of each point, etc. I am a Ph. D. in Mech Engineering, saw many wind tunnel data, so we could achieve it. Caveat: whenever the front tire becomes bigger, the crosswind hits harder. You may have felt it when used 30c on the front.

[@adamsims6490]

One think you didn’t cover was the colour. Bike looks pretty sick in the sunlight. Fluro orange doesn’t translate to film

[@domestiquecoaching547]

105 di2 user with shimano crankset here. My front shifting can require some finesse going from little to big ring. I don’t know why and it’s not all the time but it does happen.

[@UselessRandom]

Are you using the R7100 crank ? I have this setup and have no issues going from little to big ring and vice versa, my issue is that elimating chain rub before the auto trim kicks in is very hard to dail in perfectly.

[@lilchungy3298]

Are you able to try the cybre chainrings. I know they come in a 54 but I don’t know if they have a 56

[@nerocoaching]

I'm really set on the 56/42 combo, don't want to go back to a 53 or 54 big ring

[@TheBernimac]

I use Rotor chain rings and have a similar issue, used them before on 11 with no issue whats so ever! so similar vibes..

[@HarishChouhan]

Jesse check Mortop extreme BB. They have double bearings

[@cornelhughes]

I like the look of the frameset, but I think its behind times in terms of the Press Fit (BB86)bottom bracket and D shaped steerer Tube. Bottom bracket should have been threaded (norm these days) and would have avoided the current flaw being raised by many persons. Will give them credit though because unlike Seka, they are more easily accessible to US customers

[@MasteringGrappling]

Do you have to use rim tape on those wheels or is the inside of the wheel sealed and no rim tape is required for tubeless setup?

[@Dustydayzz]

i think falcon's skepticism holds him back from trying a frame that is one size up which i think fits him best.

[@pierremaggi8661]

So going from 38 to 36cm bar, 50 to 65mm wheel, you saved maybe about 20W. Sounds probable from that alone, the frame probably contribute only a Watt or two... and I'm not saying that because I am a TCR fanboy (even though I am!)

[@nerocoaching]

For sure, on the show a few weeks ago I estimated where the savings were coming from. If we assume it's 20w total it could be 7w from wheels, 5w from frame, 5w from handlebars, 2-4w from more stable upper body due to shorter cranks. That's also a rim frame which naturally has less drag than a disc frame, if I was coming from a disc brake TCR the frame savings would be larger I suspect.

[@Pablo_Coach]

@@nerocoaching there are so many air turbulences, that frame savings alone is not measurable for different peoples... maybe TCR disc with non integration cables are faster for one person than full intergrated Propel for another person. Aerodynamic are very unpredictable (like laced shoes are faster than BOA shoes).

[@Mg67890BFF]

Jessie what do you think of getting a polygon Helios with ultegra, and then swapping out the wheels?.

[@adamsims6490]

I’ve had problems with 12spd duraace and rotor chain rings. Had to switch back to DA rings.

[@nemixCOD]

Ive bought this frame also in the matte black, similar issue with the BB and my frame number is like 80odd so its not part of the first batch of frames. Slight issue with how tight the expander plug up front similar to peak torque, but once in It didnt slip. I also got the same saddle and running di2 ultegra 12 speed. Bars took some time to get use to, went from winspace bars to these and I got some bad hand pain due to a slight dip under your palm which I think jesse mentioned before in another video.

[@nerocoaching]

Nice! That transition issues from hood to drop for me was only on L-TWOO shifters, wasn't an issue when Shimano was installed

[@nemixCOD]

@@nerocoaching Fair, Ive messed around with them a few times, it seems when the sifter is more upright the issue seems to be more noticeable, I opted anyway to add some extra bar tape in that area, and wrap over it as a cushion, but this i don't think is a negative or an issue with the bike, i think its generally just a setup thing from my part. Check your seatpost when you remove it from the frame next time, I have some pretty deep etching on my seatpost from the clamp, wondering if that impacts the integrity of the seatpost strength over time. Also interested to see myself how long the headset bearings last, I got my bb threaded in that came with the bike, and It was super super tight, I just hope bearing wear on that isnt too bad.

[@Pablo_Coach]

if you don't want problems with BB buy Giant or TIME frames

[@Furncycles]

@jesse coyle, I'm the same height but noticed you chose a 56cm equivalent frame size. I'm currently on a L canyon and thinking it may be too big. Any insight, thanks!

[@eikeprehn7468]

Hey Jesse, do you still use that saddle? Need a new one but doesn't want to spend the big $

[@spsoon]

Really appreciated this real-world experience with this frame and components. Would you consider the Wheeltop EDS groupset? I think it would have been fair to check if it was the frame or bottom bracket that was out of spec. If the shell is undersized, I think it's still going to cause problems with the bearings even if those cups went in. To be fair to the crank, it wouldn't be as light with a 24mm spindle. I would deduct that point from the frame for not providing a BB standard that accommodates larger bearings for 30mm spindles.

[@nerocoaching]

I'm done with the Chinese groupsets for now as Shimano just work so well, and I've got sprint shifters which I'm enjoy a lot as well. Will consider trying L-TWOO, Wheeltop or even the new Magene groupset again in a year or two when they've had more updates

[@mtanski1]

I built a new China frame / wheel gravel bike this year. And based on videos of the folks who had mostly positive experience the downsides (QC, reliability, constant revs) just didn't seem worth it. I want to put on lots of miles in the next 3 - 5 years and not think about my group set at all, minus replacing some chains. I think a better route for savings would be to get a previous gen group set. A 2x11 Ultegra in OEM packaging will cost you marginally more than a china group set. And it'll be way more reliable and finicky and in the off case you need a replacement you'll easily find it within a day or two shipping in the western. On a 2x group set, the extra cassette cog doesn't matter. (Different story with a 1x)

[@alainpfammatter8224]

At first I was very happy with my CRW wheels (Gen2) but after just over 1000km of riding the bearing were done (wheels were moving side to side) and needed to be replaced. Thats too early. So they probably use shitty bearings. I hope you wont get the same problem with your Gen 3 wheels.

[@josipX]

Jesse you're the best

[@edrn1842]

@9:33 If my eyes don't deceive me and those are Conti GP 5000s, I think your front tire is on backwards

[@Florian_SL]

yup

[@morrisizing]

The Ultegra 12spd fd is designed around a max 52 chainring. 54's work but 56+ might be too much past spec.

[@RottenDK]

I know that you don't really upload here anymore. But is just miss your reaction videos to training topics. Also i thought now that EJ is hitting bonkers numbers if you could react and compare and explain his performance gains. Also could be fun if you invited him on the Nero Show.

[@richardsandoval5289]

Hi, can you make a video on diabetes and taking in so much sugar. I’ve seen post of people getting diabetes from cycling due to the carb intake. I don’t know if there are certain ways to do it?

[@RottenDK]

Who? Also try and google it ;D I'm pretty sure there is no correlation between high carbs/sugar and type 2 diabetes. Also i think type 1 is down to genes, i'm no expert but you can find so many studies by googling.

[@Sarncho]

I think I want one.. Not sure what size...im 179cm, usually on an ML TCR but find that slightly long....maybe the 410 size?

[@danieldanielo5955]

I have a question. I have ultegra 172.5mm cranks. I am 175cm tall and feel they are too long. Do I need to purchase an entire new crank set or is it possible just to purchase 160mm cranks and put them onto the bike? If so why can't I find just the cranks it seems difficult to find. Also if I wanted an affordable compatible Shimano 160mm cranksets what could I purchase? For context I ride 2018 giant propel advanced disc

[@nigelmcclean4166]

I was waiting to hear wat u said about the saddle...been using it for a few months. Mine is starting to come apart, the 3D printed part is starting to come away from the carbon.

[@justinbloomer]

Hi Jesse, great video. Did you notice a difference in crosswind stability of your front wheel when you changed to the 28mm tyre? Thanks!

[@nerocoaching]

I can't really remember

[@ivanivanov7064]

Your mechanic should have reamed the BB shell before pressing in the new BB. You are going to have issues with creaks/rotation. Especially with a DUB spindle.

[@seanwightman9611]

Hmm. So they're actually old style post-mount disc brakes with an adapter? Was interested in the L-Twoo but that's a bit off-putting and it does indeed look a bit messy.

[@_gregvalencia]

Loved the review! With the Seka Spear starting to make the rounds on KZbin, do you regret not waiting for a Chinese bike that has some wind tunnel testing and the option for a racier geometry?

[@nerocoaching]

Thanks. Not particularly, personally I don't mind racing a frame that doesn't have publicly available wind tunnel testing results. But I understand many people want to see that. This geometry is pretty aggressive, it's pretty close to the Tarmac SL8 The Seka Spear pricing is a tough one, in Australia it's around $1000AUD more for frame, fork and handlebar. I feel it's more useful to have raced and tested the cheaper option of the two for those that are looking for a cheaper alternative to the western brand frames.

[@bradlandry2426]

Noticed you’re running the Cannondale Gripper Aero cages/bottles. How have you liked those?

[@nerocoaching]

They're good, takes a bit of extra focus to get the bottles back in when riding fast. If they weren't any good I'd have take them off, still using them.

[@PhilRotz]

@@nerocoachingHave you come across test data you consider reliable as to their watts savings compared to ‘regular’ cages and bottles?

[@Ingrimmsch91]

So u ride basically a crw 5075 ? I’m about to buy a set of crws but can’t decide …. I’ll normally ride in the mid 30s in rolling terrain …

[@nerocoaching]

Yep that’s right. Strongly recommend the 50/60’s for rolling terrain in variable conditions

[@Ingrimmsch91]

@@nerocoaching I guess not this much slower

[@EdwardGraves-jk1bp]

Unfortunately, the crw wheels are too expensive for me but I was looking at the 9 velo cd 45 2.0 wheels, I was wondering if you have any thoughts on them or know of any other wheels that are good around that price point ($1200)? I've seen a lot of good reviews on them but wanted to ask for your opinion. Love the videos!!

[@samwoodward1647]

Class👊🏼

[@cannon1156]

where are you buying 2 dura ace rotors for $100 .. or an Ultegra chain for $35?

[@rayF4rio]

"Like" before watch!

[@jochembeumer2673]

Nice review. What site do you use to compare the geometry of the frames? I am now riding a 2017 tcr adv sl in M/L but I am looking for a fit that is comparable but a little bit more modern.

[@rolandcolavizza5368]

also experienced this with the ali express cassets they are light but shift quite shit. although they get a bit better when you run them in. have the same ryet saddle . its comfortable , but not as comfortable as my specialized power saddle

[@joaoletelier8735]

Hey mate, nice video! Interested to know how long you've been using that saddle now, and if you've noticed any damage/wear to the inside of your bibs since using it?

[@nerocoaching]

2000km on it, haven't noticed any wear on bibs

[@unlleashed]

Great review mate. Now take it down to Melbourne for a bash!. What size is Chris in the Nero Suit? Thinking of picking one up but not sure on sizing.

[@nerocoaching]

Chris is a small but on the upper end of the sizing he'd also fit a medium

[@global_nomad.]

interested to know if the shorter cranks required you to change your saddle position or any other part of your fit. (i'm 185cm and been on 175mm cranks forever.)

[@nerocoaching]

Saddle height needs to increase to keep same knee extension angle at bottom of pedal stroke with shorter cranks

[@Pablo_Coach]

@@nerocoaching say it to Pogacar lol

[@nezarshtewe9850]

damn that bike looks amazing

[@UselessRandom]

I have the same ryet saddle but in the newer 3d print material and its the most comfortable saddle i have used. I also purchased the other ryet saddle that you didnt like and also found it to be rubbish.

[@PedroStringhini]

Currently using a chinese generic bike, only groupset is shimano ultegra, the rest of the bike being unbranded chinese parts (frameset, handlebars, wheels and seat) is reaching 5 years of abuse, around 45000km of use and the only issue until now was a replace on the front derailleur rivnut. I'm aware is a lottery going for unbranded stuff, but an aero bike like mine would cost 4x more if I went to the big brands area. After using it for 5 years I'll likely bet on another chinese one, due to the fact that all the brands available in my country have chinese based production...

[@JohnSmith-ck5qk]

I think while it is a lottery, the unbranded Chinese frames makers are probably getting much more $$$ per frame from you than fulfilling a large order for a western brand, so at the very least the economic incentives are there for them cherry pick a good frame for you

[@jonathanal-saadi6355]

Hi! Good review! How hard is it to remove the integrated handlebar for traveling would you say?

[@nerocoaching]

Not sure, I haven't tried