Building the Fastest Ender 5 Pro

[@karambadodox]

The advantage or CoreXY is not "because two motors are used to move the printhead in the XY plane", because cartesian does the same thing on diagonal movements while CoreXY only uses one motor for perfect diagonals. The real advantage is that the motors are both stationary, reducing the weight of the gantry especially in the Y direction.

[@TommyHoughton]

You're right on that, I should have been clearer. If I need to mention it again in the future, I'll make sure It's accurate. Cheers

[@oleurgast730]

@@TommyHoughton Actually "cartesian" is not automaticly a bedslinger. Also crossing rods (like used in the Ultimaker 2 and Crealitys CR200b) is a cartesian system. The K3 is a very fast and capable crossing "rod" system (crossing linear rails instead of rods). To be even more precise: "Cartesian" just means 3 axis perpendicular together. So strictly speaking a CoreXY also is cartesian - z-,a- and b are perpendicular together. Just g-code coordinates are 45° rotated to the x and y of the g-code coordinates. And even more more precise: Any printer with ABL is not cartesian, as z=0 depends on x/y coordinate - so you are not strictly in euclidic space (z =0 plane is bend...). "Cartesian" only applys in Euclidic space... (but this definitly over strictly following the definitions). However, there are real non-cartesian printers: Delte/Hanging printers and Polar Printers.

[@remotepinecone]

The weight of the extra crap cancels out savings by relocating motor doesn't it? The disadvantage of giant long belts is stretch and slop I still don't get how without linear encoders you keep accurate position? If HP made 3D printers they would be full of linear encoders. All crap inkjets use them to achieve such detailed fonts. So why not 3d printers? And don't say too accurate that isn't a thing.

[@oleurgast730]

@@remotepinecone On 2d inkjet printers the printhead is just moved left and right. Acceleration/decelleration just happens at the end of the movement. Linear encoders are used to determine the position at any time. As the printhead does a constant speed, it does not matter the encoder resolution can not be as high as the print resolution. The encoder does not recognice 1200 position per inch, even it this is the resolution you selected for the print. On a constant linear movement you can interpolate the position quite accurate. So the dots can be fired out exactly in the right moment. The printhead acts depending on the position. It is only moved in one axis - and every position without dots, the printhead just moves without fireing dots. It is dot-matrix. It is just moving left and right; only turning back at the end of a line. It decelerate after the last dot is fired in the line, and it has accelerated in the other direction before the first dot is printed. In simple: The dot shots the moment you are in ther right position. Your position decide to fire. So you can use simple DC-motors. This is totally different to vector printing. Here acceleration/decelleration happens while printing. The most important thing is to move the right way and stop and change direction fast and precise. Esp. stopping in an exact position is not exactly something you can do with an DC-Motor (there are some tricks). But for precise break you actually need an active break. For big CNC-Mills there are some heavy motors using this technic, and rotary encoders are used to control how much the motor had turned. A quite coslty techniqe. But here this are all rotary encoders, to controll the motor - not the printhead. You can measure and calibrate the kinematics. The biggest problem why linear encoders do not make sense on 3d-printers: The extruder reacts to slow. If the extruder feeds, there not instantly plastic comes out of the nozzle. And if the extruder stops and retracts, still this takes its time to the plastic stopping comming out of the nozzle. AKA "preasure advance". What´s the benifit knowing you are 0.1mm off then the extrusion started? you can not change it anymore. However, linear encoders would be quite nice for autocallibration. The tension of a belt effects the steps/mm you need for a distance. So move the printhead 20cm and check by the linear encoder the real distance archived. Recalculate the steps/mm. But as does not change to often, manual calibration prints are not a big deal - and extra linear encoders are just another part that might be damaged.

[@feilko2170]

That's why I'm rocking some Hiwin Ballscrews and Linear Rails 😉🍆

[@vinnycordeiro]

And that's the reason why original Gates belts are always recommended, generic brands simply can't cope.

[@TommyHoughton]

Absolutely true. I'm not going to try save a couple dollars next time, it's gates or go home! Cheers

[@SianaGearz]

I don't think it's a Gates vs. knock-off issue. The pattern of damage where they failed tells me it's the wrong type of belt. It looks like steel backed PU belt, which is unsuitable for small radii, because THIS happens, nor is it intended to be run fast, it's intended as a precision belt. Normal 3D printer belt the cheapest kind is textile or glass fibre backed chloroprene, which for one takes the radius much easier and for other cannot just melt. So he went both too cheap and not cheap enough at the same time, actual sort-by-price garbage belt would have done much better.

[@vinnycordeiro]

@@SianaGearz yep, steel-backed belts are definitely a no-go for that use case.

[@TommyHoughton]

@@SianaGearz Thanks for the info! I don’t really know anything about belts, so this helps clear some of it up. Cheers

[@youtubehandlesux]

Wait till you discover gates gt3 2mgt, it's supposed to perform even better.

[@JunOh-x1e]

I absolutely LOVE these kinds of videos. With music, just plain dialogue, and a project taken step by step. This is now one of my most favorite videos to watch anytime. Thank you.

[@TommyHoughton]

I can't thank you enough for saying this! I put a ton of effort into this project and It's been amazing seeing the feedback around it :D I'll keep working on this style for future projects like this. Cheers!

[@MichaelVegoda]

He basically made a new printer real talent incredible video thank you man keep up the good work.

[@idk_just_julius]

but its way too slow to compete with mercs, those monsters have hybrid AWD kinematics and hydra, also CPAP cooling which is the best, his hodent is not the best IMO, but the cooling is also very bad, but doing it all by himself is impressive

[@TommyHoughton]

I hope to get the remake done later next month. I won't have hydra, but will at least have AWD and some other fun things too. There's some more updates on the community page, and I hope to add a few more soon. Cheers!

[@RGBrobot]

The editing is really fun in this video. And bonus points for the go pro session!

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks! After I lost my first one I just had to get another, I don’t think I would do it again haha. It’s such a fun little camera.

[@protec2869]

Look at the Zero G Mercury One.1 mod, it looks a bit more refined

[@raiden9250]

This is the way to go. Along with cnc towers from aliexpress.

[@TommyHoughton]

I was considering it, but it was intimidating and a bit outside my budget. I'm aware it's an amazing conversion though. For now I'll stick with what I've got, and see how far I can push it. Cheers!

[@mitsubishimakes]

I did a Mercury One conversion and honestly wasn't super pleased with the results. Its okay, but something like slapping monolith gantry onto the Ender 5 frame would be vastly superior :P

[@TommyHoughton]

@@mitsubishimakes Now that would be a notable sequel.

[@mitsubishimakes]

@@TommyHoughton Metal Monolith AWD 9mm belts with Fiber Stream, lets make it happen!

[@D-One]

4:27 A 3d printed linear rail? If theres friction doesn't it defeat it's purpose? Why not print the aluminum extrusion supporting it? Just asking.

[@TommyHoughton]

I wanted zero compromise for weight, but the extreme lack of precision (mainly due to me filing it to make it work) made it somewhat unusable. Even a printed x-beam would have been better. I’ve been sent a cnc’d x-beam which I’ll be installing in November. Cheers

[@TommyHoughton]

This is it! I'll keep this comment updated with relevant info. Thanks for checking out the video! - Quality could be improved. I didn't test a "regular speed" benchy with the High Speed filament, but I'm assuming it looks much better than one printed at the same speed with regular PLA, I could probably knock 10 minutes off with no quality sacrificing either. This stuff's surprisingly good!

[@Okuhno]

The SLM rail had me laughing, ain’t no way that was ever gonna work well without significant post processing

[@TommyHoughton]

When it arrived, moving a block onto it was impossible and while filing it eventually made it “work,” it was way too imprecise. It was an interesting experiment, but probably not worth attempting. Cheers

[@groteboem]

@@TommyHoughton Look up how precise these rails are. They are manufactured probably preciser than the µm, which is 0.001mm

[@rafaelmontserrat4443]

zerog mercury is the way to go with ender 5's

[@raiden9250]

This!

[@TommyHoughton]

I've heard nothing but great things about it. I was considering it, but I found this conversion to be much easier. The mercury 1.1 has great upgradeability though, which is something that I prioritize. For now, I'll be seeing how far I can push this current system. Cheers!

[@dansxmods]

Came here to say same thing. I have converted mine to zero g.

[@pablodiazsainz2367]

I love your video transitions, theyre hilarious!

[@TommyHoughton]

I’m glad to hear that!

[@Mijo0x9]

Yooo, good to see you are still here! Ngl, i forgot you existed but this video was prime, keep up the work!

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks for watching! It was quite a wait for this video, I had a feeling people might think I was gone haha. I'll keep it up! Cheers

[@paradoxx_4221]

amazing video quality! this video is so underrated

[@TommyHoughton]

Thank you! It took quite some time and effort, but I'm pleased with the response. Thanks for watching! Cheers

[@danielbuckman2727]

I just started getting into raising the speed on my ender 5. I didn't even go to these extremes but I am getting much better speeds. I cranked the nozzle temperature up to 240 degrees. I print the first layer at 150 mms then I turn it up to 325 and surprisingly it prints really good. Like better than it was before I started messing with it. I'm going to try doubling the layer height tomorrow.

[@TommyHoughton]

That’s great to hear, all the best with that! Cheers

[@lassikinnunen]

Drill some plates as bolted on gussets thingies for the corners. Or just plate up the whole sides of it which you can, does a lot more for the rigidity.

[@fionahoughton241]

Absolutely loved this video, Tommy! Definitely worth the wait as we can see the effort that has gone into it! It's so amazing the speed you can get the printer to go now, and even getting decent quality. I like seeing the journey and how you explained each stage, and the summary with the benchies at the end. Your camera work is excellent with various angles and editing techniques and I love the humour! 😀🔥

[@boothybuilds]

Very nice Tommy, well done!

[@TommyHoughton]

Thank you! I'm really pleased with how this turned out. I'll let you know if I do any changes to this machine. Cheers

[@SnoringVids]

Hell yeah brother!!

[@chris3dp]

Well done! Tommy!

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks Chris!

[@horus3577]

I recommend using MGN9H linear rail on the X-axis and trying a 20x20 mm aluminum square tube with a wall thickness of about 2-3 mm for the gantry beam instead of a T-slot profile. Square tubes are lighter and more rigid than T-slot. And this print bed is a no go. At higher accelerations it starts flopping around, introducing a lot of ringing. You would need a bed with 3 support points, something like on creality k1, vzbot, ratrig etc. Replace Z axis, maybe even use 9mm gt2 belts on XY, and you'll get a really fast printer!

[@TommyHoughton]

I'll be following the Mercury 1.1 requirements for the remake, I'll look into MGN9, larger belts, and such later. I've got a nice cnc'd x-beam I'm looking forward to testing. The bed is definitely an issue, I'm not fixing it for the remake, but perhaps in the future. Cheers!

[@Crazeddingo]

If you dont make sure your z axis motor has some uxcell F9-20M bearings. It cleaned up my z axis inconsistencies so much. seems like you have had the same issue for a while.

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks for bringing this up! No one’s mentioned this before. I’ll look into it. Thanks!

[@DarrylAdams]

No auto levelling? Thought adding a BL Touch or inductive probe would be usefully. Any capacity for input shaping?

[@TommyHoughton]

I was considering it. I do have a bltouch and microprobe, but I would have to design a mount for them. With the amount of changes planned, I’ll leave it until the end. I didn’t see a need for input shaping just yet but will calibrate once I need to. Thanks for watching! Cheers

[@larseastman1567]

@@TommyHoughton buy a BTT eddy it's about 20 euro and is a very fast and good eddy current probe.

[@TommyHoughton]

@@larseastman1567 I’ve heard good things about it! It’s definitely on my list to try. Cheers

[@jac2206]

Don't know if it's just the lens, but is your X v-slot on the stock Ender 5 bend🤔

[@TommyHoughton]

It’s most likely the lens, but if not, I’ve planned to rebuild the whole machine with the Mercury 1.1 system in November, so I’ll go over and make sure everything is square and doesn’t flex. Cheers

[@solrax6026]

Eventually try watercooled part. Vzbot has some good options.

[@TommyHoughton]

I'm already looking into it! It's new territory, but would be very fun to try. Cheers

[@solrax6026]

@@TommyHoughton hell ya.. its going to be pretty badass. Ill keep a look out

[@dogavocado9341]

bro ur editing and content is crazy u deserve more than 5k subs

[@TommyHoughton]

I really appreciate that :) We'll get more with every project. Thanks for watching! Cheers

[@DerUltrazauberer]

Metal prints linear rail, uses stock linear rail. You could hear the difference in the beginning of the video. The printed rail rattles a lot more. Maybe you can get rid of the aluminum extrusion and using just the rail for weight savings.

[@TommyHoughton]

Yeah, I would have liked to continue using it, but the print quality difference would be even larger. It was much louder, and there's a huge amount of play. It was an interesting experiment. While I won't solely use the linear rail, I'll definitely switch out the extrusion to either a CF square tube, or a cnc'd beam. Both with huge weight savings to compensate for the stock rail. Thanks for watching! Cheers

[@woutervossebeld4664]

Rail only can cause premature wear and failure due to stress on the bearing when the rail flexes. Using a lighter backer helps a lot, I use 15x15 aluminium square tube. It works well and is super light. Also fysetc makes a CNC lightweight rail but I haven't tested it.

[@asw27x]

Why the dc ssr for the side fans. My manta has 2 of these on 1 fan port no problem. Running a zero g merc plus with metal stepper towers. 24v 5160 step stick. At 30k got a lot of weight reduction stuff. Ti hardware helps also.

[@TommyHoughton]

They drew a bit more current than I felt safe letting the mainboard handle, I double-checked everything and maybe it could have been fine, but I had the ssr and felt no need to risk. That sounds like a great setup! I watched one of your videos, it looks nice and colourful, assuming the printed parts haven't changed. I plan on getting some 5160's too, 48V just for fun. I forgot about titanium stuff, will be worth considering, I'll write it down. Cheers!

[@asw27x]

@@TommyHoughton stuff is constantly changing. I'm trying to reduce colors but just testing stuff all the time.

[@DIYunpolished]

I just recently got a sub 10 min benchy on an ender 3 pro stock motors and belts, btt skr v2.0 turbo MCU, dual z rod, Bambu lab clone hot end from AliExpress. I 3d printed a housing for an old Xbox one fan and used it for aux cooling. Dual 5015 fans.

[@TommyHoughton]

That's an awesome setup, those bambu clone hotends are excellent value, I had one on the Ender 3 for a bit and it gave me some of the best print quality I've ever had. I took a look at your benchy, and it turned out insanely good. Keep it up! Cheers

[@nope-x9y]

Dude keep up the work, you should also add a beeper to let you know when the prints are done

[@TommyHoughton]

Good idea! I'll look into it for the future. Cheers

[@TheOfficialOriginalChad]

When I was working as an electric go kart mechanic as a teenager, Allen heads were used on EVERYTHING. So much so that we called them d!ck heads. That also meant we used d!ckhead wrenches. The owner of the kart track, Allen, was unamused when we asked him to pass d!ckhead wrench.

[@walterincardona4187]

I’m glad I pushed that subscribe button months ago! Great video!!

[@TommyHoughton]

Thank you so much! The feedback from these videos makes it all worth it :D Cheers!

[@chatt6154]

No happy end with all the mods? Results even at the end look terrible. I was hoping to find a solution for my old ender 5 pro. I own a hemera direct extruder and the linear rails too. But I dont know where to start.

[@TommyHoughton]

I’ve since converted to Mercury 1.1, i’m hoping to get the video out either today or tomorrow which turned out much better. I highly recommend looking into it, it wasn’t too hard to do and (aside from the ender 5 z axis being a bottleneck for super fast printing) it helped immensely. Cheers

[@azimuth2142]

Seems interesting for the E5p. For some reason, and I'm new to all this, my unit starts printing from the bottom left corner. Not central.

[@TommyHoughton]

I believe that has something to do with either the origin, or the start gcode and machine parameters. It takes a bit of fiddling to sort out but on the stock E5/E5P that’s normal. Cheers

[@Jacob_Does]

This is awesome! It's also giving me ideas for my own ender 5 plus. I've been trying to make it a fast printing system with a slipper pad and changing my hotend to use the REVO system

[@TommyHoughton]

That's great to hear! There's so many options for Klipper pads, I've heard they all work pretty well though. The REVO system doesn't have the highest flow rate (especially for the price) but for nozzle changes, it's near unmatched. Cheers!

[@Jacob_Does]

I plan to use the revo high flow nozzles once I get some stuff tuned in. I've been standardized my printers, and revo is very good for that. So far haven't had any issues on my ender 3 s1 with it

[@TommyHoughton]

@@Jacob_Does Oh yeah, I forgot about the high flow nozzles. Great to hear! I can only imagine how powerful having the system on all your machines would be.

[@feilko2170]

For a true speed benchy experience you should consider CPAP part cooling 😉

[@TommyHoughton]

That’s the plan 😄 I hope to get part two done within the next 6 months, I’ve got lots planned. Cheers

[@brazenh2836]

Browsing ytube and saw a vid on printed ducts on the print head for cooling. Commenter said you dont want cross flow or vortex around the print head as it reduces cooling. So i think either top down cooling would help you cooling issues (ducts over the frame aimed at the bed so youre not throwing weight around) or have your blowers perpendicular to each other ( a bit of cross flow but more likely to get both sides of print without interfering with each other)...

[@TommyHoughton]

I saw that video too, that’s a good idea so I’ll look into incorporating it in part 2 with cpap. Cheers

[@gsestream]

no, just add multiple static printer head bridges in a bed slinger 3d printer. yep make the print heads small. so you can pack many in the bed sling axis. yes the print heads move the other way than the bed sling axis. like in the normal bed sling printer with just one print head. sorry only bed slingers supported.

[@covertpluto]

I've done a similar mod with the ender 5 pro (on my channel). It helps to move the part right next to the air outlet as you can see in my 7 minute one. 40x40mm heatsinks on the motors will definitely help too with the heat. Good work though!

[@TommyHoughton]

I love your setup, the stealthburner looks great! I'll do that when I reinstall the ducts, should work nicely. I've coincidentally got some larger motor heatsinks in my aliexpress cart right now, will order a bunch of them later this month. I'll keep working on improving the machine. The v2 video is coming out late next month if all goes well, I've done a couple of community posts on plans. All the best with your printing! Cheers

[@cerberes]

Great video Tommy. Somebody was having fun editing. Is the 3printed rail smooth enough?

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks! It was about a week of solid editing. The rail didn't have enough tolerance to be worth using unfortunately. When it arrived I couldn't get a block on, so I filed it until I could. This made it uneven in a lot of areas. Cheers

[@danielcounterman6520]

Look at 24/7 printing, he made air ducts to guide the air from the side fans to the tip of the nozzle that might help with your cooling issue.

[@TommyHoughton]

That’s a good point, I could do that too. I’m installing a cpap system first, so If I have room left over I might include it too. We’ll see how it performs. Cheers

[@AdventurePrinting]

The original idea with pla parts wasn’t bad. Pla is stiffer and would have performed better, probably the heat and creep would have made a mess but not on the short term. Check for solutions as “THE100” printer, made entirely in PLA.

[@TommyHoughton]

Good to know! I didn’t want to risk it at all, but with current plans, the whole motion system would be replaced again before any deformation occurred. I’m a huge fan of THE 100, absolute powerhouse of a machine. In the future, I’ll be taking more inspiration from those types of machines to get even more improvements added. Cheers!

[@llkurofoxll1013]

that printer is garbage don't bother

[@TheHyperGamerVideos]

May wanna see about replacing your belts with something that has more tensile strength. Like CF or Kevlar. Though be careful not to sheer your motor shafts!

[@TommyHoughton]

Good idea, I'm sick of these cheap belts. What does sheering the motor shafts mean? It's been brought up a couple times but I honestly don't know what it is yet. Cheers

[@TheHyperGamerVideos]

@@TommyHoughton basically if your belts are so strong that they don't stretch, that torque force will be put into the shafts of the motors, basically breaking the shaft in half and gearing it off the motor. Happened to me with my Creality CR10 SE recently. The belt was too tight and it broke the motor shaft during a print.

[@TommyHoughton]

That sounds quite scary, thank you for explaining it. I'll do research into the "belt side of things" and apply what I can. It's been a hassle so far, so I'll do it well once and leave it. Thanks!

[@Nicecube3D]

Good video! Is there a reason why you didn't go with the Mercury One mod?

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks! Mainly budget, I was rather intimidated by the whole process too. I think it would have been a better option for upgradeability though. Cheers

[@componentescarvalho4600]

Pretty good job with this ender pro. So, you did all that, without improving the bed stability?

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks! Bed stability is something I plan on working on next since it definitely needs some tlc , but I won't be able to do it for my next video. I'll see what happens in the near future as I'd love to get the most out of this machine. Cheers!

[@shirgall]

I tried following these instructions and now there's a magnetron embedded in my hot end. While this speeds the softening of filament, I need better parts cooling.

[@TommyHoughton]

That sounds like quite the setup. Perhaps auxiliary or cpap cooling is the next step, that's what I'll try in the future. Cheers!

[@shirgall]

@@TommyHoughton Sorry, it was a joke related to microwaving the components.

[@TommyHoughton]

I wondered why I couldn't find anything online haha. Sorry it went over my head. That's quite a good joke. Cheers!

[@shirgall]

@@TommyHoughton It was your joke, I just took it a little further. :)

[@TitoSabbyPH]

Do you have a guide for the conversion and BOM>? is this applicable for the ENDER 5 only?

[@TommyHoughton]

Here's the CoreXY mod official links: Printables: www.printables.com/model/169131-ender-5-core-xy-with-linear-rails-mk3 Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5157811 I believe it's only available for the E5 and E5 Plus. Cheers!

[@xXqpXTigerXqpXx]

Do you fly FPV? That ethix tool seems familiar XD

[@TommyHoughton]

I was wondering if someone would notice! I don't anymore after losing two digital quads, but its something I'd like to get back into one day, once I can justify the cost haha. Happy flying, Cheers!

[@corrupted1850]

The stock ender5S1+sonic pad can go 500mm/s at 5k acell so if it had the acell it would be faster with no layer shifts on a Cartesian platform

[@TommyHoughton]

I don’t think the stock hotend would be able to keep up at 500mm/s. That’s quite a powerful combo though. Looks like I’ll have to go even faster 😄 Cheers

[@TheOfficialOriginalChad]

I would like to see a video where you build a stock Ender 5 from the parts you took off this one.

[@TommyHoughton]

That's a good idea, but I don't have nearly enough parts for that, I'm still using the stock frame and z axis system, which is most of the machine. I hope to build a custom machine similar to the Ender 5 (with some major changes) in the future. Cheers

[@stefanguiton]

Great video!

[@TommyHoughton]

Thank you! I appreciate you checking it out :D Cheers

[@sidimas]

I suggest you to use some lighter for x beam . Instead using aluminum profile try to use such like carbon fiber 2020 it 2x lighter than aluminum

[@TommyHoughton]

I’m looking into that or a cnc’d metal x-beam currently. Carbon fiber has been highly recommended. I’m making the final decision in September as I wish to get the video out in November. Cheers

[@davidtaylor6870]

I have all of the hype about speed, dominating many videos. So, what about speed. Many printers are not stable for higher speed, or robust. For added cost and time of improving the capability, a slower print would give a great outcome, at no expense in time and cost. So what is point?

[@TommyHoughton]

I find it fun to tinker around and see what numbers are achievable on certain platforms, but when a machine "just works" it's agreeable that leaving it alone is more than fine. Cheers!

[@joaquinfernandez327]

Could you share the printer.cfg or klipper? thanks for the great video

[@TommyHoughton]

Let me know if this works: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1j_e4Z5FJtpdH8kftMT_f9zUayGKfCgtA?usp=sharing

[@wiwibaguette6683]

Good job, earned urself a subscriber

[@TommyHoughton]

Thank you!

[@Enigmascrave]

Bruh Bambulabs can do that too, they can print benchy in 13 min (like 5 min is like flow calabration and bed leveling and toolhead cleaning) And it prints very nice, even the cheap a1 series.

[@TommyHoughton]

The A1's are great I hear, I might get one eventually. Cheers

[@Enigmascrave]

@@TommyHoughton thanks!

[@roland2864]

All those upgrades but no auto bed level?

[@TommyHoughton]

I was considering it, but I didn’t want to design a mount and then have to sort the config out for it. The bed’s been reliable so far, but I want to upgrade it for the next part so I’ll be reevaluating the decision. Cheers

[@roland2864]

@@TommyHoughton Tommy I get what you're saying, but for this project go big! Add a bed mesh scanner from big tree tech.

[@TommyHoughton]

@@roland2864 I have it on my planning document, I’ve been meaning to try it out. I’ll make it happen 😄

[@Connection_Onthetube]

The programs need units and velaribal flow rates and pressure for the head like bambu ❤

[@thehammertim]

Can a direct drive kit like the micro Swiss NG work on a system like this?

[@TommyHoughton]

It wouldn't be directly compatible, it would be easier to install on a stock system assuming it was built for the E3/E5 platform.

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

PS Reinforce the Z axis , for start replace springs with nuts for stiff mount or just tighten them as much as possible if you have resources replace rods with thicker ones (or with single mgn 15 /// mgn 20 rail) Replace the X axis 2020 profile to 1515 square tube -- less weight + mounts need redesign (bit on heavy side) , maybe try to mod them to something like in zerog mercury ) want more speed ? 48v is good option but try with 4 stepper motor on each corner not 2 for more torque (faster corner speed (or like in marlin ...jerk) and accel) :D pro tip -- - side panels to make it heavier will help with vibrations + make it stiffer (and some concrete under it so it wont move like crazy with faster speeds) , you can even use red plaster boards to do that (fireproof ones) or cement composites -- like cement composite board (mdf with cement) or just mdf --- (it dampens vibrations)

[@TommyHoughton]

I’m looking into ways to improve the Z axis, I appreciate your suggestions! Those changes to the z axis are a lot simpler what I had in mind. I have plans to do 48V AWD for part two, but it will be ambitious and is at least several months away. Good idea with the side panels! I’ve been trying to think of ways to improve weight and rigidity. Cheers!

[@Glocktopus42]

Nice video!

[@TommyHoughton]

Thank you!

[@-n3rv1o43]

Is it worth to have closed loop stepper on speed printer?

[@TommyHoughton]

Good question, it’s not really in my expertise though so I can’t give the best answer. The main negative is the increased cost with the main positive being no more layer shifts with the steppers always returning to their correct position. I’m yet to test any as the main factor is paying a premium for benefits I’m unsure about. If I do and learn more in the future, I’ll make sure to share my findings. Cheers!

[@samuelgavin1710]

Are you going to mack more FPV content?

[@TommyHoughton]

In the future definitely, but over the last couple years I’ve lost two digital quads, so I’ve sold everything until I can justify the risk and costs again. It’s an amazing hobby and a lot of fun. Cheers

[@LiamRay10]

I highly recommend reinstalling your toolhead cooling fan but using these fans instead (honeybadger 5015 four pin I would link but the comments wont let me) , and you might want to give the hotend I made a shot (check your filtered comments for the link because I cant work it in here easily, I have been able to reach 77^3 pla 240c on my bambu p1s and that is only becuase it is being extruder capped.) and find a way to fasten the aux fans down to help prevent that wobble, and you might want to also want to reprint some of those structural parts in abs/asa.

[@TommyHoughton]

Some high quality 5015's would certainly put in the work. I wasn't able to find a link sorry. I'll likely look at getting a goliath or STD6 for more flow rate. I've also got a DIY hotend in the works! We'll see how it goes. I've been compiling all the feedback for part two, which will hopefully happen later this year. Cheers

[@LiamRay10]

@@TommyHoughton Ill send you an email to your bussness email with the link just filter with "High Flow Hotend By LiamBox"

[@LiamRay10]

@@TommyHoughton Ill send it to your business email filter by "High Flow Hotend"

[@AttemptedMaker]

What a beast! Looks like high speed PLA is legit

[@TommyHoughton]

Hey Scott! Thanks for checking it out :D I was really pleased with the performance of both. All the best with what's going on for you, it will all result in something great! Cheers, Tommy.

[@Lucas-oj8mo]

What’s the command/macro to do those print moves at 1:08?

[@mitsubishimakes]

Look for Andrew Elis's tuning guide online, he has speed test macros on there

[@Ultimatestoryteller_redit]

You could just add 1 or 2 blower 4010 fans , that dont add to much weight to the toolhead

[@TommyHoughton]

I could probably modify the fans I had to mount lower, but It wasn't a priority. Adding some toolhead part cooling is definitely happening though, most likely in the form of a cpap system. Cheers

[@blaqkhavok4863]

clever snap transistions.. but for real... that microwaved hot end was SMOOOOth!

[@TommyHoughton]

Thank you! I'm glad it turned out that way. Cheers

[@ishootfoam992]

it looks like you just need an actually cooling fan on your toolhead and you will be good to go. i reccomend a single 5015 fan setup (no aux fans) as thats worked pretty well for my machine in keeping up with high speeds. since my printer is cartiesian it cant go quite as fast as yours but i can do 17 minute speed benchies (while still following speed benchy rules) and have no cooling artifacts. also i loved the editing on this video keep up the great work.

[@TommyHoughton]

100%, I think CPAP is the only option for the speeds I want to achieve in the sequel. 5015's are super powerful for their cost and size though! I've never had any issues with them, ever. 17 minutes is really great! I've got a couple of bedslingers I'm trying to push as well. Cooling is terrible on them for now. The plan is to do a video building a custom hotend (I think the big one will be about 80mm total length? It's insane, I did a community post on it) and then a video on a carbon fiber Y axis overhaul, with 48v steppers just for fun. It'll be a crazy couple of videos. Not sure how I'll part cool at those speeds, but a 5015 or two won't hurt at all. Thanks for watching :D

[@ishootfoam992]

@TommyHoughton oh your gonna go FAST fast. Yeah I love cpap setups but I don't have a printer fast enough to justify one (yet), still too broke for a voron.

[@TommyHoughton]

@@ishootfoam992 That's the plan! With a few upgrades, I'm sure you could get your cartesian machine to a point where it'd need cpap. That's an interesting sentence, ha. I can't afford a Voron either, it's a long term goal. If you do any upgrades or such, please let me know!

[@memsu06]

I love my Zero G Merc 1 conversion I did on my Ender 5 Pro. I don't push it hard but if I did I can print faster than my Bambu P1S due to the Rapdio hotend I have on it. I like Boothy's work too and use his Manta toolhead on my Ender 3 Pro, because it's vastly superior to the HeroMe ducts.

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks for sharing! It's amazing how good the Mercury conversions are, I'll be redoing the E5 with one in November. The Manta toolhead I've heard is an excellent platform. Cheers!

[@3D-DISCIPLE]

hey bud i put my extruder parts in the microwave and nothing happen i even tried 10 seconds still nothing still not assembled what am i doing wrong

[@TommyHoughton]

might need a pid tune

[@MadRajibLab]

Cool conversion! Even I have embarked on the journey to convert my ender 3 v2 to Ender 3 NG.

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks! All the best with your conversion! Cheers

[@Armor3dprinting]

Mercury One.1 is the way to go, nice work regardless

[@internetz3.0]

Thats sick!

[@Blaza303]

Will most of this work on the Ender 5 Plus?

[@TommyHoughton]

All except the CoreXY conversion should work fine. For CoreXY conversion, I'd recommend checking out the Mercury 1.1 Conversion. I've recently tried it and have been super pleased. Cheers!

[@nico68654]

patience is an art

[@NWalker-zx6xu]

Mercury One.1 has a lighter motion system. IDk why you went this route.

[@TommyHoughton]

I thought it would be easier, it was a good first try. I'm going Mercury 1.1 for my next attempt. Hoping to get that video out in November. Cheers

[@wrathblox500]

well done!

[@TommyHoughton]

Thank you! Thanks for watching too! Cheers

[@freedomofmotion]

I might see how fast I can go on my Kobra 2 max. Theoretical max is 500mms but the bed is so huge I'm not sure if it won't destroy it's self 😂 I usually print at 230mms with 5000 acceleration

[@TommyHoughton]

I've been surprised multiple times with how Bedslingers perform! 500mms might be pushing it, anything above 200 is still pretty good. They're quite fun to push. Cheers

[@freedomofmotion]

@@TommyHoughton Fastest I've printed a normal print is 300mms but it looses dimensional accuracy at that speed. It's fine for nick nacks like bottle openers and other pointless objects.

[@TommyHoughton]

That's still crazy fast, I've barely pushed my own bedslingers to that speed. I've got some plans to go faster though! Coming later this year hopefully.

[@Izzy-en5dl]

Stl for the fan?? Pls

[@TommyHoughton]

I believe YT doesn't like outside links, the title of the duct system is "Ender 5 Auxiliary Fan Duct 12032" It's thingiverse number is "6503768" Cheers

[@dsnineteen]

Watching you rawdogging heated inserts straight into a part while you hold it is giving me anxiety, meanwhile I’m over here procrastinating on my build because I’m not convinced my insert press is adequately square 😅

[@TommyHoughton]

Fair enough. I’m considering getting a better setup, but can’t justify it. I can understand the appeal of a perfect insert though, it’s quite satisfying. I unfortunately don’t stop with the terrible handheld inserts though, next video features them but much worse. Cheers!

[@dsnineteen]

@@TommyHoughtonthat’s ok! It actually motivated me to get over my perfectionist paralysis and continue building- thanks for the nudge!

[@jonathanwang1556]

The metal 3D printed linear rod is questionable choice

[@TommyHoughton]

Very, I really wanted to try it. Now I know not to try again. Cheers

[@grasstreefarmer]

Oooooh. I don't think a metal 3d printed linear guideway is a good idea man. You will have hardened bearings running on pretty soft 3d printed metal. Plus they are precision ground. It already sounded very rough when you moved the carriage. Edit: Nevermind, you figured it out. I love my Dragon Ace hotend. Its a shame they stopped selling them on Aliexpress. I'm thinking about trying the Rapido Ace too but I already have way too many over expensive hotends, as nice as they are. Fysetc sells rails that are machined to remove some metal and weight but I haven't used them. I stick to Hiwin just because they have never failed me and aren't as expensive as people make out. If you would like some ABS or PCABS parts for a Mecury 1 or just high temp versions of this design I would be happy to help. I'm in NSW

[@TommyHoughton]

I was looking at the Rapido Ace, but for the price I’m not sure if it’s worth it compared to a CHC Pro, let alone another Dragon Ace. I have to agree they’re great fun to play around with. I really want to try the STD6 for part two/in the future. I’m building a custom hotend and heatsink for my September video, will be very interesting. I’ve seen those Fysetc linear rails, might try them in the future. I appreciate the offer, I’ll keep you updated. Cheers

[@ethaninfinite5991]

Try filling your frame with sand. It will decrease wobble.

[@TommyHoughton]

I should watch Thomas’ video on that, I haven’t yet but will now. Thanks! Cheers

[@diegoduy4554]

Can I do in my ender 5 s1?

[@TommyHoughton]

It would be quite a bit different, not sure about the economics of it either. The conversions I'm familiar with aren't compatible with the Ender 5 S1.

[@curioruna265]

bro the part with the roof of the benchy being finished in no time is soooo fucking funny to watch lol

[@TommyHoughton]

It’s my favourite part haha, should be even faster next time. Cheers

[@modernmakes]

Great video. It sure can print a lot of benchy-shaped objects quickly...

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks for watching! The next step will be making proper benchys 😄

[@Rollmops94]

My ender 5 stock prints beautiful.

[@buder5116]

7:50 KEK i chose violence i pick you btt octopus pro v1.0 for my ender 3 pro

[@Valerie_is_doing_stuff]

i have a Ender 5 Pro but i feel like the cost of the upgrade is not worth it.

[@TommyHoughton]

It probably won't be, the speed increases are there, but the stock machine prints fine and is reliable enough. Cheers

[@KJMcLaws]

I had 1 and I wanted to do one small upgrade but as I looked into it, it was marginally more expensive to just buy a second printer. Now I have 3 used ender 5 pros. The other 2 came with the upgrades I wanted already lol. Now I don't even have to worry about speed because I can just run 3 at a time. 😂

[@7d4ng]

damn for 5k subs the quality is insane

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks!

[@7d4ng]

@@TommyHoughton for suggestions I would look into cpap cooling btw

[@TommyHoughton]

@@7d4ng that’s the plan! I don’t know when I’ll be able to do part two, but hopefully within the next 6 months. Cheers

[@t3cker]

Hmmm watchin ur vid i got the idea to ask my cnc dude cutting slot holes in my linear rail. We got lightweight x-beams made out of carbon, aluminium, even skeleton titanium. But ive never seen fkin slotted rails. That could save again up to 25% of the rails weight!

[@TommyHoughton]

I believe fysetc have a "light-weight" rail or such. Bit of a pain to find on AliExpress. It was about 150g compared to 200g so that 25% reduction is bang on. Not sure of the other benefits or negatives. It costs 3x a regular rail though. It's a great idea if done DIY as you save quite a bit! Cheers!

[@nanastos18060]

DUUUDE!!! This printer is printing at the SPEED OF LIGHT (compared to a stock ended) ⚡ That's CRAZY awesome!!! 🤩 I am SO hyped for you. 🎉 This is gonna revolutionize 3D printing! Keep CRUSHING IT!!! 💪🔥 #3dprintinggoals #mindblown 💥

[@raiden9250]

This is nothing revolutionary my dude . . .

[@Mijo0x9]

Bro speaks like a 5 year old mixed with a bot...

[@SilentRush420]

That looks like my ender 5 side cooling design! 😊

[@TommyHoughton]

It may very well be! I used thing 6503768. If so, thank you for such an awesome design 😄Cheers

[@SilentRush420]

@TommyHoughton that's me :) your welcome.

[@jaymelima5071]

I would recommend not printing parts in PETG in the future because it's not very stiff. PLA is stiffer than PETG. In the future, print the parts in ASA or ABS. Cheers.

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks for letting me know. I've avoided ASA and ABS due to print fears, but it looks like they're more and more useful. Cheers

[@jaymelima5071]

@@TommyHoughton But stay away from esun easy ABS, and other easy ABS alternatives.

[@TommyHoughton]

@@jaymelima5071 Good to know, thanks.

[@Charlotte_Be_Like]

Look into building a ZeroG Mercury One.1. Theyre probably the best you can get out of an ender 5 pro. The discord community is also probably one of the best 👀

[@TommyHoughton]

I’ve been building it currently and it’s been an amazing experience. I’ve had lots of help from the discord members too, you’re completely right. I hope to get the video out in about a week, I’ve got a couple updates on the community tab. Cheers!

[@Charlotte_Be_Like]

@@TommyHoughton Taking a look at your posts. Have you applied for a serial?

[@TommyHoughton]

@ Not yet, barely got the machine working a couple of days ago. Is it worth applying for one? It didn’t really cross my mind.

[@Charlotte_Be_Like]

​@@TommyHoughton yes it is. here are the advantages: - its cool - its cool - its cool - its cool - its cool - its cool - its cool - its cool

[@TommyHoughton]

@ I’m sold. I’ll make sure to get it sorted when I can.

[@axelofficial0fficial332]

I subscribed just for that joke at 5:14

[@axelofficial0fficial332]

I expect great things from you

[@TommyHoughton]

Thanks 😄 I look forward to trying new bits like that in future videos. I appreciate your support! Cheers

[@UNVIRUSLETALE]

Metal printing the rail is just stupid, it needs to be ground and have low tolerances

[@TommyHoughton]

Yeah, you're right. I realized it wouldn't have the accuracy I needed from the start. I wanted to try though. I might try again with CNC in the future. This project made me realize how important keeping everything solid and rigid is. Cheers

[@larseastman1567]

⁠you could lose more weight I think if you reduced the weight of the extrusion instead of the rail itself. You could for instance run a carbon fiber square tube. Some people even just run the rail on its own. Hope this gives you some ideas. Great video overall man :)

[@TommyHoughton]

That's the plan, but I'm torn between either CF or cnc'd metal. I forgot I could ditch the beam altogether! I don't know the pro's and con's of that though. Thanks for watching and suggesting! It's very exciting to think about. Cheers

[@chicabomb5933]

i have my motor mounts made from pla for already half a year and they are like brand new 💀

[@A_Concerned_Citizen]

I used to be so into this, then I got a bambu lab and now I just print lol

[@TommyHoughton]

Fair enough! They’re great machines. Cheers

[@PrimeCommand]

I say, if you cant point out any defects from 50cm away then it counts as a pass

[@TommyHoughton]

I like the sound of that, I'll use that in the future when evaluating, especially in part two. Cheers