Building the Gold Bump-Sluice Shaker Table

[@AUMINER1]

By far the most well engineered and designed shaker table on the internet!

[@orophilia]

Thanks so much!

[@dart70ca]

Made a Miller Table a few years back and found that the open cell foam used to keep debris out of gutters makes a perfect water flow 'straightener' for these applications. Water flows through it unimpeded but flows evenly down the table without bubbles.

[@orophilia]

Yeah, there's a lot of neat stuff out there for these projects

[@benddikdiy1412]

Thank you for sharing step by step and detailing . I like your design.

[@LarryChase-k3t]

Thank you for sharing your work so freely. It is truly appreciated.

[@mastonlyons8878]

I’ve learned a lot from your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share the knowledge you’ve accumulated.

[@shucksful]

I was amazed how you worked out those ending “launch points” on the table saw. That had to be a mind bender. lol. You are the king of craftsmanship, sir. Incredible work! God bless.

[@nickitoff9629]

Very nice build! It was a pleasure to watch. Your very skilled at multiple crafts. Thank you!

[@1Search]

Wow, so many improvements over the last table. The motor though expensive is so nice and super quiet. The driver electronics are interesting. I don't know why you needed a micro controller. Very nice method of implementing this off for the groove. Endings Much more feasible than the ramp syste.

[@1Search]

I think you used to be rC hobbiest..... The change in flextures material seems to be a big improvement also. The water bar Placement was a good improvement, With the foam, I guess you didn't get to the Feeder trough this time.....

[@1Search]

The 4 corner angle adjust is pretty nice as well.

[@1Search]

I have used exterior paint for waterproofing. Or one could probably use shellack. Or polyurethane

[@orophilia]

Thanks for the comment! Yes, I like the location of the water bar and I now have a nice place for the feeder trough.

[@scottferguson6542]

Excellent! Another interesting, well designed, built and documented project. Thank you sir.

[@ArnulfoCaviedesCardoso]

Que gran aporte! estimado señor... muchas gracias, de parte de un pequeño minero de colombia.

[@orophilia]

Hola Arnulfo! Muchas gracias. Que tengas mucha suerte con tu minero. Voy a Colombia a veces a Medellin.

[@ArnulfoCaviedesCardoso]

@@orophilia ahmm q bien! supongo que vienes a asesorar... Aunque estoy lejos, en el sur de Colombia, me gustaría saber cuanto vendrás para hacerte alguna atención. Benciciones para tí y tu familia, amigo.

[@orophilia]

@@ArnulfoCaviedesCardoso Te lo contaré cuando vuelva a Medellín. Tal vez podamos vernos. Sería muy agradable.

[@alexmiddleton2818]

Looking Good!

[@orophilia]

Thanks!

[@ArnulfoCaviedesCardoso]

Hi Dave. I'm very happy to have found this gem that you generously shared. I've already started shopping for the table. I only got the magnet where you bought it, it'll arrive this week. I've also already received the LILYGO T-Display-S3 ESP32 microprocessor. I sent you an email with a design of the grooves with the measurements that I estimated after watching your video, because the design that you uploaded to Drive is not the same... When you have some time, I'd appreciate your review, so I don't make a mistake. Thank you so much!

[@orophilia]

Hi Arnulfo. Four long grooves are better. Space the grooves 12 mm center to center. The grooves should be 6 mm wide and 2 mm deep. Best of luck. -- Dave

[@ArnulfoCaviedesCardoso]

@@orophilia Ah, there you have it, Dave... good information. Thanks a lot for your timely response!

[@josephburdell2041]

Thank YOU for the detailed instructions

[@brandongurr5181]

I like the moss at the spray bar.

[@FASKY2788]

Truly impressed! Thank You!

[@ericbruns888]

Amazing. Questions questions question. Great video. Thanks for sharing all the great info.

[@CantSeeMe-q4i]

Great Video! Thank you so much for posting your build content! I am in the planning phase of doing the same thing. Which means YEEEAAAARSSS :)

[@1Search]

I used to build the Bob Beck zapper. It runs on 8 cycles per second. Coming out of an LM741 op. Amp. I also made some that were adjustable frequency. Square wave output. 24 V. That input signal could drive the transistors to provide the variable output to the coil.

[@orophilia]

Yes, I think it's possible to use a couple of 555 timers to get the job done.

[@1Search]

@@orophilia Yeah, the thing with the timers is that you gotta have to know how that's why buy the micro controller if One doeisnt have as much know how., Or if you want to do some very particular tweaking More easily

[@orophilia]

@@1Search I think I'll make a video on the microcontroller and how to program it to control the linear motor.

[@1Search]

@@orophilia The Pico Graham scale you made was impressive.

[@geoffdennis3518]

"@orophilia 5 days ago @1Search I think I'll make a video on the microcontroller and how to program it to control the linear motor." @@orophilia this would be so good if you could

[@mygoldaddiction200]

Great video thanks for sharing!!

[@rodofiron5957]

Very cool the natural resonance of the mass of the table. Very little additional mass of material to slow it down, little current to achieve ideal vibration!! I plan to build one. We used to paint insides of gravity wagons with graphite paint, blackish. You absolutely could not stand up inside of them with any chaff from grain. Nearly injurious! Net benefit was grain would slide out of there so easily. No more banging on the sides, crawling inside to get it to feed to auger to go to bin. I wonder if graphite paint in the shaker table grooves might help materials slip horizontally? Especially at transitions?

[@orophilia]

My guess is that some friction is necessary for the particles to move due to the bump. I now think that it's better to have a resonant frequency lower than the drive frequency. This is easy to do by sizing the flexures appropriately. My recent tables have a resonant frequency of about 2.5 Hz and I drive them at 5.5 to 6 Hz.

[@rodofiron5957]

@@orophilia I got to thinking, some friction is good: keeps heavies moving only horizontally to end of groove, intact, while lighter trash rolls off……

[@orophilia]

@@rodofiron5957 Yes, exactly.

[@seanb3516]

I've wanted to build one of these Tables however I have a different approach in mind for the rubber membrane/mat Grooves. I believe the way to homemake a rubber grooved mat is to lay the rubber on a flat surface and add on one side a set of slanted shims used to create the walkouts for the Gold. By cutting the Grooves with a Router the Walkout is created perfectly through the Action of the Router climbing up the gentle slope of the Shims. This is the only method I can really think of which doesn't include Casting a Mould of some type.

[@orophilia]

Hi Sean. The grooves in this table were cut directly onto the plywood with a table saw. In one of my previous videos I show how I cut the rubber mat with a router and a template guide. The guide has a gentle slope at the end that helps to create the gold launch region at the end of the groove. I've never found a clean way to route the Neoprene rubber. I have to spend hours with sandpaper removing the torn and hanging chad. -- Dave

[@jamest.5001]

If it were me building this masterpiece! At 14:15 , I'd use a router and start at the shallow end. Slowly poundage the router in to about .060" and maybe to about .100" starting at roughly.010". Then sand with up to 400-600 after the epoxy! Although I would have probably added a couple layers of fiberglass, the thin stuff. That looks like tissue paper and possibly bake the wood at 215°F for a couple hours. Drive away any moisture. Then a thin epoxy bath possibly under a vacuum. the vacuum infusion should stabilize the wood for many years sitting in the weather before it even starts to rot! Possibly, 20 depending on UV exposure. With the fiberglass layers it could incorporate Led strips inlaid under the fiberglass along the end of the grooves. The fiberglass being transparent a diffuser layer would be required. A thin layer of silk like cloth or cotton under the fiberglass! A pigment may be used or a gel coat! A white gel coat could help with black sand contrast! Or a pigment added to the epoxy! A wet sand and buff to smooth out the surface , then a 400-600 grit orbital sander to give it a matt finish, and give the gold a little traction so the black can scoot on by! And the collection points I have tiny funnels with about 1/2" outlets to allow a bit of 1/2" hose to be used If desired. Use a bunch of measuring cups / containers for the concentrates. And a gold or panto pre catch the tails close to cons. Before overflow into a large tub to be filtered through a large coarse sand filter divider in the tub with the sand collecting in a smaller tub in the large tub! That will over flow into the larger! The two stacked gold pans used to test the tails for gold lost! Without loosing anything , after testing and dump the pan place it under the other so nothing is stopped or lost! But the thing is, I gotta find the gold first!! Then get it before even thinking about this Part of the process!! Great video, have a awesome day!!👍

[@orophilia]

Great comment! Yes, I'd love to do all that and more. I need another lifetime as a prospector. -- Dave

[@kurtremislettmyr7108]

excellent video

[@andrewgivens5070]

Thank you I've been looking for something like this! I want to modify it to catch #1 #2 cons

[@orophilia]

Hi Andrew. Best of luck with the build. -- Dave

[@donizetecorreiadepaiva5616]

Boa tarde professor parabéns hein legal demais hein valeu pelo trabalho

[@lambastepirate]

thanks for the vid

[@dalelusby5925]

Thanks for taking the time to show your table build. I’m attempting to make one myself now. I love the drive mechanism. Do you think the table could be scaled up a bit with the same size magnets and coil? Where did you get the magnets? Thanks!

[@orophilia]

I buy the magnets from . Buy N52 type. The moving mass of the table is about 5 kg. With this design I wouldn't go above 7 kg. You can get more power by going to a 24V or higher drive voltage and/or larger magnets and coils.

[@cecilmallory6469]

Really enjoy your engineering , great looking shaker , would you be willing to share or sell your wiring diagram ?

[@orophilia]

I will make a video with much more information about the electronics. Thanks! -- Dave

[@dennish1037]

What type of Garolite are you using? G10, G10/FR4, xx? Thanks, your videos are extremely educational

[@orophilia]

It's Garolite from McMaster-Carr. G10/FR4.

[@dennish1037]

Thanks for the reply. Have you experimented with polyurethane plastics? I am contemplating pouring a sheet of polyurethane with a shore hardness of 60-70 and then using a CNC to cut groves.@@orophilia

[@orophilia]

@@dennish1037 That sounds wonderful! Let us know if it works. -- Dave

[@dennish1037]

@@orophilia What display are you using for PWM motor controllers - did you get them from Amazon?

[@ПетровичиК-м5у]

Hello! Could you share the list of electronic components and their markings? Thank you bro!

[@KenzosGoldProspecting]

Bloody awesome build, video and explanation. Well done! Did you come across any issues with the magnets holding up magnetic fines on the shaker table and if so, how did you remedy?

[@orophilia]

I did. Not on this table but a later version. The piece of mild steel was just large enough to hold the magnets and that's a bad idea. The piece of steel should be larger by 1/2" all the way around. Anyway, it doesn't seem to make any difference to the performance of the table.

[@KenzosGoldProspecting]

Thanks for the prompt response 😊

[@mothereartha7]

Love the tabletop, but the electronics are beyond me, lm going to start with a flywheel driven by springs attached to a cam, with the cam effect shaking the table, or electric motor voltage reduced and geared low driving a cam setup

[@orophilia]

Good luck. I'd love to hear how it goes.

[@alainsoave9563]

Very nice design. Have you considered offering kit?, at least for the linear drive?

[@orophilia]

Yeah, but I have a limited time and lots to do. :-)

[@alainsoave9563]

Let us know when you do. I am certain a lot of people would be interested.

[@gtxsatria2010]

mantap

[@PIKACOBBFINDS]

Have you seen flour gold wizards he definitely is passionate about flour gold he's rugged but knowledgeable inventing a flat flow sluice head

[@orophilia]

Yeah, cool stuff. I like Jason. -- Dave

[@PatrickOchieng-qc5uf]

Need one

[@brandongurr5181]

I just guessed. Our hardware sells 1200x2400mm So I got a 1200x600. Bugger

[@brandongurr5181]

G'day. Please contact me. As now I'm committed thanks..... Brand-on

[@mohammednovalija]

Is a shaking miller table feasible , or am I missing something obvious ? EDIT : NVM - I just scanning thru your very first tape and there is mention of one. Have you continued with that project or has it been abandoned ? I'll probably find the answer in some other tape.

[@orophilia]

Hi GST. Yes, a shaking Miller table is quite feasible. I've done some experiments and I plan to continue them. -- Dave

[@dennish1037]

There appears to be some design/part changes related to the electronics box in this video compared to the more recent video "Linear Motor and Electronics for Bump Shaker Table" and the "Gold Bump Shaker Microprocessor Board" video. Different components, etc. Is this the case?

[@orophilia]

Hi Dennis, Yes, I'm now using the Lilygo T-display S3 as the combination of microprocessor and display for both the linear motor and the PWM controllers.

[@Роман-э6в9в]

😮

[@pathofthebee2873]

I am having trouble sourcing 3/4" N52 magnets. Will 1/2" thick work with a modification to the coil? My school only lets me purchase from Amazon...

[@orophilia]

Yes, 1/2" thick magnets will work but the force will be lower so keep the table as light as possible. If you can find 1" wide by 2" long by 1/2" thick magnets that will compensate for the reduced width. No need to modify the coil. Be really careful with the magnets! It's easy to hurt yourself.

[@pathofthebee2873]

Thanks for the quick reply. We will use aluminum to build the table(I teach welding and machining) so it should be lighter. And I will be very careful with the magnets, I have been reading warning labels.

[@jawadahmed7094]

Hi, I have a suggestion that might help you. Instead of electronics why don't you use a massage viberator? It's simple, easy and cheap. I would appreciate your feedback.

[@orophilia]

Good morning. It might work, but I would not know how to control the frequency and the force applied to the table. -- Dave

[@geoffdennis3518]

Really appreciate the fact you freely share your information. you are very inspiring and i would really like to make one of these. is there a way to contact you outside of here?

[@orophilia]

[e-mail]

[@geoffdennis3518]

@@orophilia Thanks, email sent regards Geoff

[@nativeflight7079]

Hi it’s me again. I’m building this and as you can tell this is way above my level of intellect so bare with me. as I go I’m running into little things that I’m confused on. In this video you specified a 150w 10-32v to 12-35V 6A step up Boost Converter. In the electronics follow up video you specified a 250w 10-40v to 10-50v 6A. One has heat sink one doesn’t. Is there a reason why you recommended the white one over the red with heat sinks? Also you mentioned that there’re (3) 2pin female plugs on the side of the box. 2 for the motor coil, and 1 for the pump. Why is the motor coil taking 2 outlets- wouldn’t (1 )2pin plug be enough to complete the circuit? And a dumb question : By using the mcu -are you are able to control the speed/ force of movement to one side? Say it moves to the right and then abruptly changes direction to the left. The gold continues forward with inertia - in theory wouldn’t quick\sudden change of direction eliminate the use of a bump plate or is that not enough strength?

[@orophilia]

The electronic modules from China come and go on Amazon. I noticed that the original boost converter that I used was no longer available, so I recommended another one. You can use any boost converter that can supply at least 24V and 3 amps. I use three female 2-pin connectors on the controller. One is for the motor, one is for the pump and the other is a spare. You will need two connectors. Yes, I'm working on a controller that does just that. It can be varied from all to the left to all to the right. I tried the shaker table without the mechanical bump. It doesn't work.

[@nativeflight7079]

The 3rd is a spare!…of course that makes sense!! You probably said it too. I was seriously in deep thought trying to figure out why there was 3rd I spent hours looking up how to wire all these things and how to work the mcu I’m still left where I started. Looking at the electronics Thank you very much for the reply.

[@orophilia]

@@nativeflight7079 Sorry for the confusion.

[@Nugget907]

By far the best table design that I have seen. I would like to build your design. However, I can't get the drawing to open up for me. Can you help me out? I have downloaded the sketchup 8 but I don't know where it fouled up.

[@orophilia]

Good morning. Does Sketchup 8 open and run on your machine?

[@danholman5282]

No it opens SketchUp for schools and wants me to pay.

[@Nugget907]

@@orophilia Got it to open. Exploring it today.

[@orophilia]

@@danholman5282 Ah, that's the problem. You can try this (at your own risk): www.oldversion.com/windows/google-sketchup-8-0-16846

[@orophilia]

@@Nugget907 👍

[@timeversole8136]

Love the table and book marked all electrical items but for some reason I can not down load the sketch Up drawings for the table ' is there any way you can send them to me?

[@orophilia]

I re-uploaded it to the same link. Please give it a try.

[@timeversole8136]

still can't get it maybe Email it to me

[@nativeflight7079]

I’m not familiar with sketchup at all. I can’t seem to be able to pull up a part list. Is there a way to do that?

[@orophilia]

Sorry, there's no parts list. Just the 3D drawing. -- Dave

[@orophilia]

Sorry, there's no parts list. It's a very simple and old program, but quite useful for communicating the sketch of a device.

[@ozb2006]

Question, did you try higher frequencys that are higher? 400hz? 1000hz?, 4khz? According to building engineers who built buildings for high earthquake areas There is something called liquification Factor we're small solid grains start behaving like liquid At very high vibration frequencies And if a solid will behave like liquid Then weight separation would happen a lot better thanks for sharing

[@orophilia]

This is an interesting subject. Yes, liquefaction is an important part of gravity separation. It's accomplished in this machine by the combination of the turbulent water flow in the grooves and the impact liquefaction from the bump. Both are needed in a water sluice. I drive the table at about 6 Hz, which is as high as I can go given the weight of the table and the amplitude of the motion that I need.

[@mohammednovalija]

@@orophilia Just thinking out loud here , like Donald Trump and his Covid Bleach thought , Could you superimpose say a 1 kHz on top of your 6 Hz ?

[@orophilia]

@@mohammednovalija I could attach a vibrating motor, but I've got that idea saved for something else.

[@1Search]

​@@orophiliaYes, 360 is definitely pushing the limits.

[@TshepoJacobLekhoaba]

I'm in South Africa can I send my superfine gold to you

[@jacobstrickland6991]

Howdy, how much would it cost to buy one of these you made?

[@orophilia]

Hi Jacob, I'm very sorry but I don't make anything for sale.

[@GiltronTheOne]

what programe did you use for the files

[@orophilia]

I use a very old version of SketchUp. It is version 8 and it's available for free on the web. Just look for it. -- Dave

[@khmernewkh-bk3xv]

I would like to buy one from you, so may you offer me this gold shaker table

[@orophilia]

Hello. Sorry, I don't make anything for sale.

[@Jatslo]

3D printing is cool. A lot of people are printing these days.

[@orophilia]

Yeah, I 3D print a lot of stuff for other projects. It's amazing. The cost of printing large parts is very high, so I don't know if the technology is ready for a shaker table. -- Dave

[@mikeflanders2173]

When will you sell them?

[@orophilia]

Hi Mike, Sorry I don't sell the tables. -- Dave

[@MartyWilliams-x9w]

Hey how much would you billy one of them for

[@orophilia]

I'm sorry, I don't manufacture anything.

[@samGold27]

Are you selling like that ???

[@orophilia]

Sorry, Sam, but I don't make anything for sale. -- Dave

[@macneill2012]

On your last video you said your micro processor wasnt necessary. It all seems quite straightforward, but you loose me at the chip.

[@orophilia]

Yes, I think that a couple of 555 timers and a logic gate or two could be used to drive the H-bridge PWM motor controller. One timer would be used for the frequency and the other timer for the PWM amplitude. Perhaps such a circuit exits on the web. I used the micro because I wanted to try different timing and acceleration profiles, but I found that a simple 50% forward/50% back is the best.

[@PIKACOBBFINDS]

Hello sir I hope that you might look at my comment because I really want to know your knowledge well all of your KZbin subscribers you like are similar I'm not an engineer but I know just about everything I apply myself to and it's gold learning the fluidity of water the density of gold the price of gold and life if short I'm already capturing gold from black sand living so close to Lake superior it would be so great to have correspondence with you I'm a almost 40 year old Menominee native living in upper Michigan and want to take advantage of what knowledge I have and can receive to be successful before the end if my time plus I love gold mining Placer not hard rock couldn't see myself being crushed. Thank you for hearing me. Have many life passions and I see your passionate have a great day.

[@mealone8208]

You are an atist

[@brandongurr5181]

I need you to contact me before I continue my build

[@orophilia]

What can I do for you, Brandon?