Building the TotalBoat Sport Dory: Episode 31 - Installing the Oar Locks

We’re rolling right along on our TotalBoat Sport Dory build and it’s finally time to install the oar locks. The most important thing here was to find the right height and the right distance from the aft end of the middle seat. We did a lot of research and sat in the boat with a set of oats and tried it in several different positions until we found what we thought was the most comfortable spot.
The oar locks are going to rest on pads that we’re going to make out of some nice quartered white oak. Because the sheer is curved and twisted we need to plane the pad down so that it will sit flat on the surface. Before we drill the holes for our oak locks we’re going to put some pieces of wood into the space in the sheer to stop the drill bit from wandering around as we drill.
Once we have our holes we’re going to shape the pads to make them look a little more aesthetically pleasing. So we’re going to make a couple passes on the bandsaw until we get a nice shape we like. Then we’re going to spread some TotalBoat Thixo on the bottom of our pads, clamp them into place and drill and fasten them down.
Subscribe to Tips from a Shipwright on KZbin for more episodes of the Sport Dory series and sign up for our email list at
www.tipsfromashipwright.com/email
Help support the channel with a Tips from a Shipwright Hat and T-shirt!!!
www.tipsfromashipwright.com/store
/ tipsfromashipwright
/ louissauzedde
Subscribe to TotalBoat for product info and other how-to videos: www.totalboat.com
www.jamestowndistributors.com

[@codynova]

The camera work in these is absolutely top notch. The framing of each shot feels totally appropriate to the specific format of Lou's instruction. Incredible quality content, it cannot be understated.

[@roberthamilton9730]

Lou I have to admit, after watching your last series I wasn't sure how this build would measure up (perhaps not wrapping my head around all the complexities). Now that this boat has taken shape with all it's compound curves and delicate lines I can see why you took this on. I am very impressed with your camera work, your skills and demeanor, and mostly your ability to teach us. Thank You.

[@Z-Bart]

"If this isn't right, I don't know what is". Well said Lou.

[@paulcollins9397]

Only 83,000 more to go! Because now, we ALL want one!!

[@thameswater2561]

lol lol....very funny, mmmmm but a thought..

[@thomasarussellsr]

For the next build, please build the V-bottomed Skiff. You do you, sir. You are the pro. I might have considered leveling the edges all around on the row-lock blocks (except the bottom mating surface, of course). I would want no sharp edges or my self or my grand kids would find a way for those edges to cut us.

[@pwijland]

This is what I really like about this series. Telling you why you put something in a different place and not just put them in a place. Thanks Louis

[@ronblue6568]

I am enjoying your work alot. My shop and boatbuilding school were destroyed by Harvey last year and Ive had to move on. your videos give me my badly needed fix. Thanks Lou

[@christopherpeterson1400]

it is great that you show " FITTING " OLD SCHOOL CRAFTSMANSHIP. people now days think everything is computer made or 3D printed or magic.

[@dpmakestuff]

"if this isn't right, I don't know what is!" spot on Lou!

[@DBacaMaker]

Wow, so many things to consider. Not only the practical, which your personal experiment showed in the oarlock placement, but also in the aesthetic, the ever-so-slight back-set of the oar-lock stand edge. So much absolutely prime insight there. Thank you so very much!

[@NearbyCactus]

Just to add to the variety, I was trained in the Navy to call your "Oarlock Socket" a "Crutch Plate". The metal piece that the oar sits in is a "Crutch", though they were open like a horse-shoe. What we called a "Rowlock", was where a recess was cut right into the gunwale, for the oar to sit in. It was generally lined with brass. Love these videos!

[@raytheron]

Aaahhh OK, now my day is perfect and I can go to bed! Another superb video, Lou!

[@COPPER71]

i actually miss rowing a wooden boat as a kid after watching this.. i was hoping you were going to shape the oar lock block.. very nice

[@BigRock804]

Hi: I always enjoy watching you work with the Block Plane. My Father-In-Law coached me in the use of the block plane and now it's the first plane I pick up, and it's my low angle block plane. The second tool that he coached me on is the Brace & Bit and you make it look easy driving slotted flat head screws. It took me a lot longer to learn how to do that and not mess up. I am still driving slotted screws with a brace because I can feel when to stop and not ring off a Brass screw. Good Show and I enjoy it a lot.

[@tomtruesdale6901]

Another great video. I like the way you explained setting the oarlock position and the way to shaped the blocks. Can't wait to see you out on the water enjoying your new boat.

[@retrotrailerarchive]

I came here because of Dirty Shed Creations, awesome, subscribed!

[@MartinFluteCompany]

Happy you rounded the ends of the row lock mounts. I think I'd have slightly rounded the top edge with sand paper; that way if a person slips there will be no knife edge to break the skin. A bruise is better than a gash or so it seems. Excellent video Lou, thank you!

[@michaelhawkins1173]

If you say it's right, then it is. Great to watch as useual. Thank you.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Well done Lou. Great timing for me as I'm in the process of installing oar locks in my dingy. One problem I had was they weren't long enough for the depth of the inwales. I ended up mortising them to gain a 1/4". I always appreciate your comments about making it look good.

[@ecrusch]

Another great episode Lou ! Thanks!

[@benedictrehiesi5166]

I would be awesome to see the boat in the water, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!

[@bosse641]

Good job Lou. Looks great.

[@garyfairbrother5532]

All my thumbs up!!!

[@johna1160]

Lou's next T-shirt/motto - "If this isn't right, I don't know what is".

[@rcdogmanduh4440]

Something about a guy rowing a boat in front of a garage door, I don't live near the ocean but I want to build a Dory!

[@vicferrmat4492]

Thank you Mr. Louis. I have been searching the internet for some time for information about boatbuilding for beginners. When I found your channel and after watching season one, I stopped looking. You are very generous, the videos are so well direct I feel like I am in your workshop just looking at every thing you say and do. Your personality is engaging and your language is clear and explanatory. The videos will be a visual reference for me. I found it really enlightening to see how you did not use sealant on the bottom of the skiff. I would appreciate it if you could point me to a good place where I could buy boat plans. Thank you for a great show.

[@PMoney365]

So Cool!

[@Logjam5]

Something to consider for sure. Good demo Louis.

[@ahvavee]

The hands of orlock

[@twistertechnology9367]

Great video. Thank you.

[@reforzar]

Awesome.

[@daleskidmore1685]

I wish I had seen the part about working out the position of the rowlocks a while ago. I placed min by looking at lots of boats and where my knees were whilst sitting on the thwart. It may be they are in the right place ( I have those that drop out sideways type ), but I had to pre site them to be able to nail and rove the rails in place. I know what you mean about looking forward to rowing, Lou...

[@richardbohlingsr3490]

It will be interesting to find out the actual length of oar that you settle on. The rowlock looks quite sturdy and should take the oar thrust applied while rowing. I would be interested to see you craft a set of oars also.

[@chriscunicelli7070]

Looks perfect as usual

[@tedhaas8440]

More episodes please!

[@arkansas1336]

Great detailed work! ....13

[@UweBehrendt]

thanks

[@nataliespentzos4486]

Very interesting

[@jonno8183]

The dory is coming along great - however I would like to see the oarlock pads shaped/rounded over to remove the sharp corners and fair them to the boat.

[@Pushyhog]

Thanks Lou.

[@terrygosden6085]

Just a thought, as the human body is mostly different lengths in the upper body, therefore if you had place three oar-lock holders each side on the same holder, the rower would have a comfort compensation placement, dependent on his/her height.

[@jasonparker3109]

"If this isn't right, I don't know what is."

[@MrSpageto]

Hype!

[@carlbeyer1]

Louis, I love your channel. I am actually thinking of building my own boat for lake Michigan. I currently have a boat that has a 150hp mercury on it and would like to use that engine for a larger boat. You said you may possibly consider making a 23ft v bottom boat. I would love to see you make this boat. This is something similar to what I would like to make. Keep it up sir I truly enjoy watching you build boats. Thank you.

[@clifearls9330]

Do you all boys add something to brace your feet in for when you row? My feet would want to push again the frames and over time that would probably loosen things up. Good job with the "metric" drill bit. I do the same thing. Paddle bits are cheap, driving to town and buying a special sized one is expensive.

[@UlrichVIII]

wanna see it floating!

[@drewpierce2273]

Always interesting videos and clear explanation of the process. I am really curious as to what the final oar length will be given Lou's size. By the way, I ordered one of Lou's Sport Dory Travel Mugs. Very good quality. It's a nice way to support his channel if you are of a mind to.

[@666Hansen]

Traditionally we have fork or rather horse shoe shaped oar locks in Scandinavia. On the oar, there is a leather wrap to protect the oar from rubbing it self thin, and a ring/ridge of leather that prevents the oar from sliding out trough the oar lock. The shape allows the oar to go in the fork, where there are no leather wrapping, but when the oar slides out to the ring, the thickness of the leather wrapping holds the oar in the lock. What prevents your oars from taking af hike, if you loose grip ?

[@JohnDaker_singer]

I'm in the Southeast United States. The oars you describe are the kind I've always used, but the round oar locks seem more practical. For the horseshoe shaped locks, we had to use a pin at the top to secure the oars, and the pin was a hassle to deal with.

[@oakdogfu]

We hold fast, Brother! 😂🤣😂🤣

[@boatrat]

[To 666Hansen] I believe Lou previously said something about making some new custom-fit oars for this boat before he's done. These ones he's showing here for this test set-up, are surely not in their finished state, even if these are the pair he ends up using in the end. (I think they look significantly too short for this dory, by my estimation. They were probably leftover from some dinghy/tender type skiff. I know they're old/leftover from SOMETHING, 'cause I see stains where there WERE leathers like you describe already installed. He clearly took those off to use them for this test-fit, since this boat is likely beamier, i.e., the spacing of the old leathers wouldn't suit here. And/or, maybe the staining means the old leathers were worn out anyway.) As J.Grumby mentioned, your description of oars/locks/leathers/buttons, is all the same as we use(d) here on both coasts of the US & Canada. (I mean traditionally, before the rise of modern plastic parts & related substitutes. Good strong proper-sized well-made Bronze open-horn oarlocks have become harder to find in recent decades.) I'm not sure whether we inherited this scheme direct from the Brits, or whether we all figured it out together concurrently with you Scandinavians. But I expect it happened about the time of the Industrial Revolution (whenever mass-production of large numbers of identical small castings became practical).

[@JC-ny3kf]

Horseshoe oarlocks are common in the USA--I've owned more than one handmade wooden row boat with them--made in the state of Maine.

[@sjobang]

Horseshoe oarlocks come in handy if the oars get jammed in between (or under) things like rocks, ice, wood, other boats or what ever. With closed oarlocks, wich are cheaper to produce, I would'nt feel safe unless in open waters.

[@JC-ny3kf]

Now that I see the dory near its final form, I'm surprised that Lou isn't concerned about the sides in the bow and stern flexing inward in heavy surf because there are no seats, or horizontal cross members, in either the bow or the stern. Such flexing would cause stress on the rivets and planking I'd guess, thereby leading to leaks and more importantly damage. Now, if this dory were just for use on moderately sized lakes, then I can see omitting horizontal cross members in the bow and stern.

[@basshunter670]

Great job. The dory is really coming together, you are a great shipwright! What's your next project going to be? I'm a member of the Antique outboard club (AOMCI) I would love to see you make a boat to run a 1930s style outboard motor on. Keep up the great work!

[@rcpmac]

Lou, Have you ever used carbon paper to disclose the high spots between 2 mating surfaces? - Chris Seattle

[@essentialhandyman2205]

Who the heck are the 4 individuals that disliked this video!

[@thomasarussellsr]

Probably guys who either wish they had 1/10th of Lou's talent and skill, or, guys who noticed his removable guard rails that were easily removable by taking out screws are now epoxied at the ore-locks.

[@richardbohlingsr3490]

Nah, they are probably designers that work for Mercury Outboard. Nobody wants to go slow anymore.

[@joserpachecocolon155]

Hi Lou , nice work , I'm very fascinate in your work's , I'm from Puerto Rico and want to know if you are going to build a canoe ? Thanks

[@budnotu]

Ahoy, Lou I see that the men that help you never get into the conversation).It would be nice to get them involved in the conversations.

[@staxter6]

For 14 years of my speaking life my late Father referred to row locks as 'rollox', took me another 20 years to realise what he was talking about! Go figure my lack of comprehension.

[@mr.e7022]

I would have eased the edges on the oar lock blocks with a router. Also I would have used a table saw to cut the bevels.

[@johnhewetson4406]

Love your videos and while I am a carpenter myself you are at least a dozen steps ahead of me when it comes to boat building. I was wondering if you ever sink the "row locks" into the wood so that they are flush when the oars are not in them. Maybe you know of a reason for not doing this so I wanted to ask.

[@boathousejoed9005]

I'm always thinking about restoration down the line...will it be a mess to remove the row locks?

[@karlvanderwaal2301]

Been watching all the Sport Dory episodes and am fascinated by your work and how you apply your craftsmanship to find practical workable solutions. Are you going to fill the small cavities between the nylon and the planking joints?

[@stingerbees]

Last vid he said he was going to leave them open so it would be easier to empty water out of the boat

[@karlvanderwaal2301]

I am talking about the small triangular spaces where the planks are joined and the nylon doesn't touch because it can't bend that sharp.

[@comface]

21:01 *Boop!*

[@1932cheytruck]

why did you choose to place raised blocks to put your oar lock sockets in vs putting them in spacers along gunale for cleaner look

[@themodelboatbuilder4689]

I would like to see the row locks Inset into the wood rather than screwed to the top, personally that would give a more professional finish to that part, the height loss is marginal for the sake of looks. Just my two cents but I know with your ability’s an easy addition. Keep up the great work have really been enjoying your channel since day 1!

[@charlesxix]

Moore Clan I have been wondering if it was only me who felt the same.

[@themodelboatbuilder4689]

barnett25 it maybe an issue for some however if it was epoxied in place that would seal the grain indefinitely and become an non issues all together. In fact you have the same issues with Rot if it was simply screwed to the surface through the imperfections of the wood, swelling and the screw holes, either way rot maybe an issues but with the use of epoxy all this can be resolved before a problem occurs.

[@dennisoshea4906]

I thought the same thing and it really finishes off nice Also I am surprised that he only put two screws to fasten it I know the epoxy does the most of the job I would have thought four

[@barryatkins1771]

Moore Clan - Agreed, it's Lou's boat of course, but if it was mine, I'd inset them into the wood for a smooth and cleaner finished look... 👍

[@zackfishle1009]

maybe lou needed a bit higher oarlock to be more comfortable rowing,

[@mmanut]

R U going to put a clear finish on the in and outside of boat?. Vinny 🇺🇸

[@JohnDaker_singer]

In a previous video, he said he was going to paint it white.

[@BrunoWiebelt]

it fits you perfect ... but what about other sized people?

[@More_Row]

You calling him small?

[@BrunoWiebelt]

I am the about the same size, but I think about kids and tall people and want to discuss a variable seat arrangement

[@boatrat]

The only real adjustability that's needed, is to have several little foot-brace cleat-block thingies in a limited range of positions. Usually three of them, sometimes four, typically about 3" spacing in the fore-and-aft direction, allowing for various rowers' leg-lengths. Made out of like... 1x1 oak, maybe 8-9" long blocks, oriented cross-wise in the boat. In this dory, with the relatively narrow bottom, they'd go right out near the chines, with just enough gap for bilge-water to drain past them on the outboard side next to the "chine log" (a standard piece Lou's structure omits). Unless you're talking about NBA players or Little People, that usually covers just about everybody. If not the 3 or 4 fixed foot-blocks for your heels on the floorboards... the other option is a slightly more complex (and bulky) slide-rail gizmo with notches in it, for single foot-rests that are movable over a range of maybe 9-12 inches. That latter version of the idea, is never traditionally seen in work-boat types. It's more for lighter pleasure boat type craft, which would never have commercial fishing gear in them.

[@BrunoWiebelt]

Thank you for answering! really learned something

[@MrJohn714]

It is what it is, why does it have to be a one size fits all?

[@pocobuen]

no, that rowing position is right

[@rusty1850]

why do you row with your back to the direction of forward sight?

[@buckmudflap2346]

that's how it's typically done, as it uses more muscle groups. look up forward-facing rowing and you'll see it's much more complicated than you would think.

[@bgm1958]

Wouldn't the position of the oarlocks be dependent on the height of the owner?

[@JM_Dealings]

Next Boat Build? VIKING? xD

[@gregcollins3404]

If you've ever tried rowing with a sliding seat, you would never go back...

[@roberthamilton9730]

Nice performance, however I don't think that would be in keeping with this style at all.

[@alohathaxted]

Why not Thol pins?

[@adam42a]

Where is the puppy?

[@nobblynobody]

We call 'em rollocks, round by 'ere, (ie: to rhyme with bollocks)

[@johnstarkie9948]

“rowlocks” becomes “ro’locks’” by leaving out the spoken ‘w’. A speech characteristic akin to the glottal stop instead of ‘t’. In a similar way ‘gunwale’ became ‘gun’l’ by leaving out the ‘w’, ‘a’ and ‘e’.

[@user-ok9lb1vt8c]

Why didnt you just epoxy that spacer in there and leave it?

[@todddunn945]

I was wondering the same thing. Why not epoxy a full length piece of wood between the inwales and the hull before drilling the clearance hole for the oar lock. Of course it would be a bit more involved than two pieces because of the hull curvature between the frames

[@davros517]

I think you have to leave drainage from the oar lock hole

[@user-ok9lb1vt8c]

But the hole is there. It seems funny to me to leave a 3/4 circle there. He ended up blocking the two sides anyways. Why not just leave the first block and have a cleaner complete hole there?

[@todddunn945]

DavRos, drilling the clearance hole all the way through the spacer block would provide all the drainage needed, particularly if the inside of the hole is epoxy sealed.

[@sjobang]

You don't need epoxy to fix those orelock pads into possition, Louis. A few more screws would have done the trick and I think your videoes have become too much of a Total Boat commercial. Wear a Total Boat t-shirt (if you have to) but do your own thing, is my recommendation.

[@CybranM]

I love this show but the American number system is really confusing. "somewhere between five eights and eleven sixteenths", instead of using weird divisions it would be easier to use a smaller increment. It could easily be described as "somewhere between 16 and 17.5 millimetres".

[@edwardschmitt5710]

oh good idea we will go metric....nope we refuse in America. What you know is always easiest.