Building your perfumery raw materials collection

[@danlightened]

This has to be one of the most useful videos on perfumery. Anyone interested in perfumery may about the popular notes, how they work together and as such many know mostly about essential oils. Since perfume makes only mention notes. I know 15-20 aroma chemicals after a lot of research but I didn't know which ones were the common ones in perfumery.

[@sammacer]

Thank you, I’m glad it helped

[@danlightened]

@@sammacer If I ever get any commercial success making perfumes, I'm definitely crediting you. Half of what I know about perfumery is from your videos. I've quite a few questions tho. Hope you can answer some of them on those specific videos.

[@connorweinman4792]

I’ve been binging your content since I found your channel yesterday. I wanted to thank you for providing insight and transparency to what can be a rather mysterious art. I also wanted to thank you because I am a composer, and had reached a rather difficult artistic roadblock in the music I have been writing recently, but was able to find clarity and a sort of “missing piece” in my thinking through entering the art of perfumery through your channel.

[@sammacer]

Great to hear that, I think that often, theory principles between art forms can overlap. Good luck with the rest of that music! I'm happy to uncover the 'mystery' too, as when I first started, it took me years longer than I hoped for me to get into perfumery because I couldn't find any of the information out there - it was super frustrating. Hopefully less people have the same experience now.

[@zalzalahbuttsaab]

I binge watch him too. He's hypnotic.

[@zalzalahbuttsaab]

@@sammacer Perfumery is exactly one half science and one half art. It's such an amazing pastime.

[@zalzalahbuttsaab]

@@sammacer It seems from watching your videos that your experience exactly mirrors my own. It was such a struggle in the beginning. It seemed like perfumery was this, "closed, secret world". I'm glad like channels like yours are now available for people I know who have the desire to make their first fragrance and whom I haven given the link to your channel.

[@sammacer]

@@zalzalahbuttsaab Yeah it's a great mix

[@dollyjhaom]

All of this hard work you've done for us... Thank you so much😊 🙏

[@sammacer]

It's my pleasure

[@drunkenmaster]

You my inspiration, I am at the beginning stage and the way you explain is just gold thank you for this valuable information.

[@sammacer]

Thank you, glad that the videos help

[@tdog3954]

this entire channel is amazing. thanks sam.

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@Lyricluxx]

You nailed this again brother. I always eagerly wait for your videos. Very informative and content is like secret. I always learn something new .

[@sammacer]

Thank you, I appreciate that. And yes, one of my main goals with the channel is to get rid of that feeling that perfumery is too 'secret' to get into.

[@erewrw1906]

imho two of THE most important materials are Cornflower/or the closely related Chicoree flower. obviously these are hard to get (some co2 extracts from the other side of globe).. cornflower is widely aiable in apothecarys as hydrolate.. meh water.. but yeah, oh and chicory roots are sold under the name "kasni" its an aryuvedic term for chicory roots.. so i use them for the flowers, so why roots then? because i found other parts of plant can be used interchangeably- SO: these two named materials do boost the presence of EVERY single other flower.. say you decided to use only rose as your flower.. and imho, flowers can hardly be left out in a good perfume, they add presence.. so, then you may find that many roses are not quiet enough present to do what the flowers are supposed to do.. thats true for many many other flowers, they almost give you the presence (or many white flowers may give presence but add a strong milky kinda quality that i personally find overshading many things)) .. SO: the most important two flowers , cornflower and Chicory Flower , added roundabout 1/3 to the Flower you want to "boost" and to make "present" , will like said make the flower like rose, geranium,tagetes, you nema it SHINE. Also the sole use of the said two flower will be amazing.. Imho those two materials are THE most important in perfumery actually, but totally forgotten. THIS IS MY SPECUALTIVE OPPINION. Its no claim. but thats what i feel.. they boost every single flower out there.. Ylang ylang has also a tiny amount of this presence boosting qualities, but its not on that level.. Also st.johns wort i like for those presence-qualities, but it cant be used to bosst red-tinted (or orange, or not even on yellow) flowers.. it can only be used to boost purple flowers, like say malve.. so you hear i use special materials. i do this because i have special way to find my materials. and yeah, the most imprtant two flowers are like said above. cornflower, and chicory flower.. nothing comes close.. they make your perfume so much more present WITHOUT making it "milky-smelling"..

[@fyoluvsong4233]

Tq sam. I watch several video of yours and it’s help me learn from basic to how to make it accord using scale.

[@sammacer]

Fantastic, really glad to hear that

[@abbasalikhan]

Hi Sam. Do u have a video where u make a perfume from start to finish. Like creating a new perfume. If not then i think it going to be a good idea to see the whole process which also includes adding the solvent the the concetrate and maybe bottling as well. Thanks so much really enjoying your videos.

[@sammacer]

No I do not - creating a perfume start to finish is a months long process and would be a whole series - hopefully one day I will make that but I haven't had the time at the moment. For adding the solvent to concentrate, it's simply pouring it in which is why I don't think it's worth doing a whole video on.

[@Devonellah]

Of these Aroma Chemicals - it would be great to know which are Naturally Derived vs. Chemically Derived - for people who want to steer clear of things like ISO E Super and other chemicals like that... :) This is really cool!!

[@ellusilva]

Thank you for this video Sam. It was really helpful for me!

[@sammacer]

I'm glad to hear

[@corwingarber]

Offering so much value. Appreciate u 💪🏻

[@rainymoodz2048]

Do those raw materials have and expiration date? How long do they last? Keep up the good work. Thank you

oh Sam I loved your channel! Thanks for your sharing 💗

[@sammacer]

Thanks ❤️

[@aromafh2486]

Fabulous video ,. Aroma from heaven,.

[@sammacer]

Thanks

[@palmfree5328]

Brilliant Sam!

[@laurenbray8314]

If you're in America and want a kit to start up I think the best available is Perfumers Apprentice kits. My first buy ever for perfumery was their beginners naturals kit. Really good quality and pricing. Creating Perfume used to have good ones too but aren't doing them atm unfortunately. If you're in UK the best kits are from Pell Wall. Actually Pell Walls are the best all around imo and I'm jealous that I can't afford the shipping for them lol. But if you have the extra money to spare I'd still do it even living in America. I'm ordering from Pell Wall someday for the extensive range of pyrazines though, only place I can find them! He sells that Superpowers kit with tons of pyrazines and other hard to find stuff. I'm dying to get it.

[@sammacer]

Well said

[@zalzalahbuttsaab]

Spot on as usual. Thanks Sam.

[@sammacer]

Thank you

[@Press4ward_]

Thank you for your content. Awesome information. Can you do a step by step tutorial on how to mass produce product at home? That would be amazing

[@sammacer]

Thank you. I don't think that would need a tutorial to be honest. All you would need to do is mix larger quantities of things together in a big container.

[@mi-vy8xm]

im wondering where did you learn all of this things,youre such an amazing guy,thank you so much brother🙏

[@sammacer]

Mostly self taught and thank you!

[@mi-vy8xm]

@@sammacer im quite confused with aroma chemicals and essential oils,because i already attended a seminar in perfume making,and if i look in the ingredients in any perfume you will only see essential oils,and you are talking about aroma chemicals,i cannot understand because we are being taught by using only fragrance oil,dpg,pga,fixatives and distilled water,i think what ive learned is just basic compared to what you are teaching us,i hope that i can also learn this!

[@sammacer]

@@mi-vy8xm The information from this course sounds bad to me. What is the course?

[@mi-vy8xm]

@@sammacer im from the philippines,theres no one here teaching what you are teaching us,theres no even aroma chemicals supplier thats why i cannot understand and even if i ask some perfume makers here about benzoin,hedione,timbersilk,ambroxan,they dont know that,a lot of people here or perfume gurus😆 saying that they are selling oil based perfume but in a spray amber bottle,quite funny because as far as i know its impossible to use oil in spray bottle,meanwhile they will just use 30% pure fragrance oil like versace eros inspired or copycat and 70% carrier oil as base like mineral oil or fractionated coconut oil,or if alcohol based,15%-25% fragrance oil 1-5% both in fixative and dpg,70% perfume grade alcohol(pga),and and the rest is distilled water,we can remove distilled water if we want to increase the fragrance oil,after that it will be aged in chiller for 7 days or 2 weeks in room temp,the course is perfume making,thats why im amazed that you are teaching the science of making a perfume!

[@sammacer]

@@mi-vy8xm Hey - yeah, don't fall for any of that rubbish if you really want to make perfume. This shop in Thailand should ship to you :) www.perfumersworld.com/

[@MegaChampion777]

Hey Sam out of curiosity, I’m looking of some materials to buy off perfumers apprentice and am wondering if the smaller size bottles of 4ml etc… is worth getting or not? I just don’t know how much to get. Let me know your thoughts, if you mentioned it in the video already I apologize for not catching it. Thanks man!! Looking forward to learning perfumery. Something I have been wanting to do for so long and you sparked my interest again and have given me answers to a lot of the questions that I had in the first place that prevented me from perusing it.

[@sammacer]

I think 4ml is fine if you’re making 10% predilutions like me

[@andym28]

If would be great to do a list of eg the most common fixative blenders etc. It would an easy way for beginners to use them.

[@sammacer]

Unfortunately there's no simple fix in perfumery for blending and fixing - these properties need to be considered when choosing your initial raw materials rather than afterwards to make an existing composition 'fixed'. I understand the frustration about this topic though so I'll try to mention it when I can

[@eva.csouza]

Hi, Sam. Great video!! If I want something that smells like cherry what should I look for?

[@sammacer]

I would say benzaldehyde and anisaldehyde

[@eva.csouza]

@@sammacer Thank you so much. Great channel!

[@originalsupermommy]

Love it!

[@sammacer]

Thanks!!

[@BoriSSon-Malikov]

Great! Thank you!

[@amazonamazon4872]

I love your channel, you keep things very precise but offer a little bit of nuance. However, i dont think most people should buy those "kits". Often, there important peices missing, nothing to offer on how to use them, or alot of the ac's offered are redundant. As well some of them come pre-diluted, shouldnt get anything pre-diluted unless necessary (i.e. phenylacetic acid which is regulated in its pure form), also they do not offer any education as to synonyms in theor kits (ie cedryl methyl ether aka "cedramber") I would honestly send them to basenotes there are quite a few posts on beginner ac's with input from guys like b. Korn, p.kiler, amd d.ruskin. on what synthetics and naturals should come first, as well as the tgsc demo formulas.

[@joshgonzalez2858]

Why does every set in a scent video have to have a guitar in the backround?

[@tamlin420]

Why oh why is Perfumer's Alcohol such a difficult hassle to get a hold of here in Sweden... :( It's the only thing stopping me from getting into all of this...

[@yura2424]

Use pure hand sanitizer, with no additives?

[@tamlin420]

@@yura2424 Interesting idea... But I'm afraid hand sanitizers here in Sweden all have additives of some sort. Most are "alcogels" with a content list like this: "Ethanol (640g/1000g), Aqua, Isopropyl Alcohol (60g/1000g), Glycerin, PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, T-Butyl Alcohol." The most pure ones I can find have: "Ethanol (75%), Aqua, 2-propanol, Glycerin, Caprylyl glycol, t-butanol."

[@sammacer]

Maybe these can help: www.basenotes.net/threads/435489-Finding-a-good-alcohol-in-Sweden-online www.basenotes.net/threads/454533-Perfumers-alcohol-in-Norway-Sweden

[@tamlin420]

​@@sammacer Thanks for the links, Sam. Basically there are two ways to get Perfumer's Alcohol in Sweden: The first way is to do it illegally by smuggling it in from Denmark or Germany, or by ordering it online and hoping it doesn't get checked in customs... Obviously not a great way to do it. The second is to start your own company and apply for a permit to buy denatured ethanol. Technically you apply for a tax exemption, but in practice it's a license to buy ethanol with the purpose of using it in your business. I guess anyone could start a company, and to get this permit you also apparently need a clean criminal record. If one were to smuggle it in from another country, that in itself could lead to a criminal record if you're found out, so basically the only way to do it properly is to actually start a perfumery business. So doing it as a "hobby" is practically outlawed in Sweden... And all of this is simply because the government has strict control of strong alcohol because of the risk of alcohol abuse. Even when the alcohol in question is denatured! There are a couple of kinds of denatured ethanol that can be bought without a license, but those kinds are so harshly denatured that they're simply not usable for perfumery. They're not only undrinkable, they also have strong unpleasant smells. They're denatured with things like Isopropyl alcohol ("strong pungent alcoholic" odor), Butanone ("Mint or acetone-like" odor, and also some potentially harmful health effects) and N-Butanol ("banana-like, harsh, alcoholic and sweet" odor, and also a skin irritant). The ones you can buy with a license that are intended for "cosmetics" are only denatured with DEP. But even then you can basically only buy it in big containers of about 25 litres and there are strict safety guidelines around how one needs to store it properly, so it's not really something any regular citizen could do... So annoying... And so typical of Sweden to be overprotective to the point of being illiberal and making even legitimate activities unnecessarily laborious.

[@sammacer]

@@tamlin420 I feel for you dude; hopefully the laws change at some point. In the meantime, good luck with finding something that works for you 😊

[@xoxUnD3R0aThxox]

hi Sam, I have a question regarding Vanillin, I ordered some, and just by opening the plastic drum it came in, and possibly having a few particles flecked off on my clothes, I could smell vanillin all day, I then prepped a 11% solution by weight using 100% etoh as solvent, now I found this concentration to be slightly irritating to my throat and nose immediately after spraying, but then the main issue is that I can barely detect the smell of vanillin anymore! am I getting anosmic to it? do you, and others, experience anosmia with vanillin? what's a good working concentration for vanillin? also, do I have to refrigerate it or can I keep it at room temp?!

[@sammacer]

Vanillin is very strong so 11% is more than enough. 1% is fine too. The thing with vanillin is that it's overpowered by the ethanol at the beginning. If you spray the solution onto a scent strip, I would say you need to wait 15 minutes before you can really smell the vanillin. Make sure to let your nose refresh outside in that time.

[@helentkuwab6893]

Hey there,i live in ethiopia where there is no perfume making raw material so would you please help me on getting the raw material please

[@sammacer]

Try Pell Wall

[@aromasfromearth1558]

👌👌👌👌👌

[@la-ia1404]

is it possible to order directly from the scent manufactures?

[@sammacer]

Yes, but usually the minimum order is very expensive, often 5KG or more

[@la-ia1404]

@@sammacer Dang. Well guess I will just have to order from others until I become so rich and successful 😜

[@sammacer]

@@la-ia1404 Don't worry - you can buy through resellers like Pell Wall

[@la-ia1404]

@@sammacer So I see pell wall exists. Are there any others that you know of who sell fragrances? I've come across some sellers who don't always have what I'm looking for. Good to have options.

[@sammacer]

@@la-ia1404 Perfumer's apprentice and de Hekserij