Wall Frame Components and Construction Sequence

This video shows the names of the members of a typical wall frame and my sequence of construction.

[@ChandraBrooks]

You explain this very well. I'm a beginner taking on an ambitious project - making a wall out of windows for my shipping container house. Finding videos that actually show you other than the presenter in a way I can follow and learn is rare. You're my hero, thanks!

[@Buildsum]

Hi Chandra, thanks for your comment, I'm glad you like the videos.

[@stigonutube]

finally found a aussie specs you tube site, good illustrations and wordings as im new to the wood speak framing language..thank's mate

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, I hope you find the the videos useful.

[@thecriticalpoint]

I had to pause the video at :20 to thank you already for actually going over some vocabulary. I've been watching other videos that assume that I already know what these things are. Thanks!

[@Buildsum]

+West L Thanks glad you like it

[@CASH-TO-THE-MERE101]

😎👍👍

[@axetone]

This was FANTASTIC!! Great explanation on how to 'think' through the build 'by purpose'. Thank you!

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Axetone, I'm glad you like them, thanks for your kind comments.

[@stevemackay5869]

Thanks!

[@Buildsum]

Hi Steve, thanks Mate.

[@bubbamarz2037]

This video was very helpful for me. I recently got my Termite/fungus inspector license with minimal construction background and this was super important to know.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, glad to here it helps.

[@homeirajaz4037]

thank you for a clear concise and fabulous video- it has tremendously helped me as an interior design senior student.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, it never ceases to amaze me just who uses these videos, I would never have thought of Interior designers need to know this.

[@sogandoskoei8115]

now I understand why should I keep clear 100mm to each side of a window in my drawings. Great job, Thank you.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, I dont think you need to leave quite so much on both sides. these videos may help to clear things up. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIaZd4GMntmLiK8 kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmKlfKGwhsiDors

[@MAXXGREATER]

Simply the best presentation.

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate, glad you like it.

[@Bazil0076]

Thanks for the videos, they are very educational, and way better then Taff courses.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment although as a TAFE teacher I would hope that the course is at least as good as the videos.

[@Bazil0076]

I am trying to get my builder license, so your information is very important. If you have any advise please share it with us. Thanks

[@aussiegardener5629]

hi. i want to thank you for your excellent videos. they are exactly what i am looking for to help me build a little room under the house and potentially a little tiny house out the back. you've done an excellent job with these pictures to help us understand what you're talking about.

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate, good luck with your projects.

[@JoeDeng-ni7go]

Thank you for the detailed figure showing the terms for each things

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate, I'm glad it was helpful!

[@OneIdeaTooMany]

Awesome video mate. Finally a video that's useful for aussies

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate, glad you like it.

[@edmcnabb9364]

Very helpful, have watched it several times.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Ed, thanks for your comment, I'm glad you like it.

[@youliusgill8834]

Good work and thanks mate. these video are helping me through my studies.

[@Buildsum]

Thanks mate, Great to hear!

[@Buildsum]

HI Anthony Leily Thanks for your feedback. I have never heard of an actual minimum width however I would imaging that the narrower the sheet the less effective it would be and it would probaly get to a point where it would not be worth putting it on at all. I cant recall using sheets less that 900mm here in NSW, Australia. Personaly I prefer plywood over metal strap. The metal straps are a pain to install and don't really give you a lot of resistance. With Ply all you do is nail it on and you get a lot more resistance. Size is not really an issue as long as the sheets suite the stud spacings, the less cutting you have to do the better.

[@richardguzman9790]

Buildsum

[@warwickjamesAUS]

Our builders installed metal braces in the walls but forgot to nail them down. So you walk around on 1st level and the walls have a metallic vibrate sound. And on the ground floor, the wall mounted clothes dryer makes the metal braces vibrate. I ended up having to pull off sections of the gyprock and screw the brace properly to the studs and noggins. Hey nice video - I never understood that large plyboard - it's a brace! Makes so much more sense now - it just seemed kind of random before. Masteron - I wouldn't recommend them to anyone. Message me if you want more info on my experience building two homes with them.

[@Buildsum]

Hi +Kim Bucina All the terminology in this video are correct as per the Australian Standard AS 1684 Timber Framing Code and are not slang

[@GeezySk]

This type of things it's what really help!

[@Buildsum]

Thanks, Mate, Glad you like it.

[@mohammadalisalimi7961]

Love your explanations

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate, Glad you like them!

[@Mr00dear]

Fantastic info so helpful. Thank for takeing the time and effort to make this vid👍👍👍

[@CASH-TO-THE-MERE101]

David Smith 👑 I'm with you on that

[@KrishPatel-qj4xv]

Hey, love your videos very informative. Can you please do the same way for tiling on wall and floor?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, sorry im not a tiler.

[@eucalyptus101]

Great video. Well done!

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate, I'm glad you like it.

[@Satfenfilms]

Good vid. Interesting to see the American vs British differences in jargon.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Stefan, Yes there are plenty of different names for the members depending on the country, state or town you work in.

[@omerosmani143]

well done mate, thanks for the tips. Please upload more

[@Buildsum]

Hi Omer, there are over 200 up at the moment and i still have a few on the drawing board.

[@whippernuts8355]

ok cool video, but boss says something about a left hand hammer being a important part of the wall frame and you guys don't even mention it

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, to be honest I have always found having a left handed person as part of the team is very useful. They can get into some areas, to nail, where righthanders can't. However as for a left handed hammer I think your boss is pulling your leg.

[@soulinc7804]

Great explanation, What is the nail size re 90 x 35 frame and 90 x 45 frame. Thanks.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, nowadays you need to use 90mm nails for nailing the plates to the studs.

[@JamesSmith-id1jh]

Perfect job, nice and smooth terminology. Complied with the current AS and BCA. Well done.

[@Buildsum]

Thanks, James, Glad you like it.

[@joanna5672]

Great video. Thanks

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Joey, Glad you liked it!

[@benschon1]

This was really helpful thank you!

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate Glad you like them

[@darrenmackay2534]

Great explanation, thank you. Do you have an answer to when a ribbon plate is needed? Does it depend on whether there are joins in the top plate; or does it depend on whether it’s a load bearing wall, tiled roof or a tin roof; does it depend on whether there is a window frame or a door within the stud wall, or the span of the wall?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Darren hope this helps kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWaukIaDjJySoa8

[@darrenmackay2534]

Perfect, thank you!

[@xx-fp1in]

Again thank you for this... absolutely brilliant👍

[@Buildsum]

Thanks mate, I'm glad you like it.

[@2awesome292]

do you use the force to make the top plate float up in the air like that? You probably could use it for much more useful things than framing a wall...

[@joelkerley9121]

here in the USA we never have the floor plate run across the bottom of a doorway, and we have a header over the doors as well as the windows, and all are lumber is 2x4 or 2x6 and so on and we use a 1x4 for angel bracing and it is notched into each stud making for a very strong bracing.

[@Buildsum]

Joel Kerley Hi Joel Thanks for your comments. The plate across the bottom of the door is only temporary during construction and transport, once the wall has been stood and fixed in place it is cut out.Yes we use headers or Lintels over our doors as well but only in load bearing walls. As for timber sizes we commonly used 70 x 35, 70 x 45, 90 x 35 and 90 x 45 but noting larger. The timber brace used to be fairly common however steel bracing and sheet bracing is now being specified by the Structural engineers so we have to used them instead. Again thanks it always great to hear how things are done differently in other parts of the world.

[@marcusjuhasz3501]

Bookmarked and subscribed thankyou mate

[@Buildsum]

Welcome aboard!

[@haiaku]

Awesome, do you have video of how to install & finish window openings after the rough framing & the process of interior and exterior sliding doors?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, again i dont but this channel may help kzbin.info/door/RVvh18wdBhwaBLplQ2XZaw

[@haiaku]

Buildsum cheers!

[@mrbat0003]

Great video! Thanks for posting!

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Nader

[@peterc9117]

I have some terrible looking opening head in my house. After watching this video, I assume there is a trimmer and jack stud in side. Do you think I can remove the opening head without affect the building structurally.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Peter, you would have to have a look in the roof and see if there is any supports landing on top of that wall before you start doing anything with it.

[@peterc9117]

@@Buildsum thank you. Will do so.

[@PeterPan-wb3ow]

Great video...thanks very helpful..

[@Buildsum]

Thanks for your comment Peter, I'm glad you like it.

[@sophiemclaren9920]

Very helpful video. Have you got any for calculating steel frames?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Sophie, Steel frames would be basically the same however as they need to be engineered it is not something that you would be building onsite yourself.

[@Steve-fz3pl]

Great videos, thank you. I have a couple of questions if I may. 1. At doorways is there anything wrong with using jamb studs inside the door studs to support the door head trimmer instead of notching the door stud for the door head trimmer. 2. Can I use more than one noggin between each studs, for a 3m wall I assume I need 2 but was thinking of 3. Can I nail the noggins to the studs before installing them? 4. Can I use a full stud in place of the blocking? Thanks so much.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Steve, remember that standards are the minimum that you are required to do so if you want to put in extra timber there is no problem with that. Everything that you have suggested sounds fine.

[@brendan3556]

Thank you 👍🏽

[@886014]

That was a great comment about some companies handling the lintel differently, thanks for that. In your example this was a new build, however how is bracing retrofitted to an existing brick veneer wall? For example retrofitting bifold or stacker doors to replace a standard door. There is obviously no longer access to the cavity. There would be an existing timber or perf steel diagonal bracing but that would no longer be possible. I presume the sheet bracing would need to be installed internally?

[@Buildsum]

Yes Pete The bracing would have to be fitted internally and the rest of the stud packed out to match.

[@886014]

Bugger! Ok thanks, I will need to come up with another solution then as it's not the whole wall that will be stripped. Imagine an open plan kitchen (yes with tiled splashback) adjoining the dining area. It's the dining area that will receive the new opening and the kitchen area (on the same wall) will for now be left untouched. The interior studs will need to remain in their existing plane. I don't think I'm the first to need to do this, so I'm surprised I'm finding it difficult to see how others have coped with this situation. A the moment I'm considering leaving a 450 mm bay in the corner and inserting bracing, basically as a site built "Pryda short Wall Truss". Alternatively, inserting additional framing and fixing some sheet bracing to that frame so the bracing could go internal, and inserting that into the bay, ie that bay would appear as if it had jack studs with double top and bottom plates (if that makes sense) and tying it to the plates with coach bolts. The wall is on timber bearers. Either way I'm wallowing around is a sea of uncertainty as to how either of those brainwaves stand in the eyes of the code! I figure it simply needs to withstand the wind loading, and it shouldn't matter how I get it there. Ha ha ;)

[@Buildsum]

HI Pete To be honest the reason you cant find anything on it is because you are delving into stuff that a structural engineer would normally be consulted on. While you plan sounds feasible and reasonable to me it would need certification.

[@886014]

Thanks

[@bagzmore6055]

Nice one.

[@Buildsum]

Thanks!

[@davidheath2611]

so with the panel bracing how is that covered by the cladding if the bracing steps out on the outside wall wont that push the wall cladding out or is that panel recessed into the framing

[@Buildsum]

Hi David any clad wall with a bracing panel would need to be packed out the same thickness as the bracing sheet

[@SuperChicolatino]

Do you need double jack if you do 1600 opening for a door ? And header

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, that is a pretty subjective question as it will differ depending on the type of timber you are using, the length of the studs, whether the wall is loadbearing or not, roof loads, the country you are in and other factors. However as a rule of thunmb, any opening that is wider than the stud spacing being used will require a Header (Lintel) of some sort and nowdays it is quicker to use a Jamb Stud to support is rather that checking the Lintel into the single Window stud. Hope this helps

[@SuperChicolatino]

@@Buildsum hi mate thx you for your reply ,i see what you mean ,i try to get answer as is so hard a carpernter to do you work now days ,thx for the help

[@hermez2004]

Hi very good video just wondering when you put in the secondary stud, isn't that going to close off the measured space needed for the custom made window size?

[@Buildsum]

Thanks, Masi, the position of the secondary studs is determined by the required window opening and everything else goes outside that. The frame company or the person constructing the frame will know from the span of the Lintel is the second stud is required or not.

[@noelroche8402]

Love it

[@Toyotaamazon80series]

If that wall is to be load bearing as the beam above the window would suggest then the top and bottom plates need to be doubled. Also the doorway needs a beam above it like the window. For me max stud spacing for 4"x2" shouldn't exceed 16" O/C, 👍 🔨 🇮🇪

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, Yes if this was to be a load bearing wall the door would required a lintel however it was just drawn for the purpose of the terminology. However, here in Australia at least, we dont require the double top and bottom plates for load bearing walls as long a certain conditions are met. They are covered in this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWaukIaDjJySoa8 Hope this helps

[@Hyperleaser]

Goodmorning, thank you very much for this very detailed and well explained video! It helped me a lot in understanding how a wall is build. Me and my wife are in the process of building our own tiny house. I wanted to ask you what you recommend for spacing between the studs. I get a bit mixed information online, from 30cm to 60 cm between the studs.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Samuel, the standard here in Australia is 450mm or 600mm however it really depends on the lining and the cladding that you will be attaching to the studs. Manufacturers will specify the minimum support required so that should be your stud spacing. Hope this helps.

[@Hyperleaser]

@@Buildsum thank you for such a fast response, yes this helps a lot already. Also it clarifies a lot why i found so many different opinions. I will then indeed contact the manufactur, is this normally the manufacur for the lining and cladding? or the manufactur for the studs. anyhow, thank you a lot :)

[@Buildsum]

Hi Sam, no problem, You should be able to get hold of the installation manual for what ever Cladding or Lining you decide to use.

[@JeanDubuc]

Really useful stuff mate. Thanks for this.

[@Buildsum]

Thanks, Jean, Glad you like them.

[@sergiomolina5795]

Thanks for the explanation

[@Buildsum]

Thanks, Mate.

[@bartbug1]

Thanks for your Vids, just looking for advice on noggins. I can see how it would be easier to stagger the noggins on that centre line of them, but I see some videos where all the noggins are level on the same height (that would be harder to do (skew nailing etc) so if I do them in a staggered format will it be harder to line a room with gyprock, unsure? Thanks for your videos.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, it is standard to have the noggins in the staggered format and it wont make it any easier or harder whichever way you do it. Just be aware some products, like "Blueboard" need to have the edge of the sheet continuously supported. Hope this helps.

[@anthony989utube]

Great video, thanks. Very clear and useful info.

[@AB-ku3fu]

Code for window and door studs 90x35x2 or 90x45x2? Thanks

[@Buildsum]

AS 1684 in Australia.

[@gjcarr2991]

Good stuff mate...well explained

[@Buildsum]

Thanks, mate, I'm glad you like it.

[@ugyenadventure4227]

THANK YOU

[@josifnguyen8911]

Hey buildsum, thanks heaps for the videos. I am new to carpentry and would like to know more in regards to window positioning while framing. My current boss tries his best to measure where the bricks will be then align the windows closes to where it might be. Even though i think this makes it easier for the brick layers. I think its time consuming and unnecessary. What are your inputs in this?

[@Buildsum]

HI Josif This is a very common practice as it not only saves time with the bricklayer but also looks like a much better job. Have a look at this video it may help kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmKlfKGwhsiDors

[@bruciorediculo]

Thanks mate, fair dinkum explanation. what's the standard spacing for centres? 450mm for external walls and 600mm for internal? you only mentioned the noggins @1350 high. great vid thanks again, just about to go spastic on a building spree on my land!

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, the spacing depends on the lining materail and could be 450m or 600mm for any of the walls.

[@bohong5679]

good video. Thanks

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate, Glad you liked it!

[@uriuriuri]

G'day Buildsum, I've just found your channel and enjoy your videos. If you have the time to respond, I'd love to ask a few questions: I've been waching all the Larry Haun framing videos and now I am trying to 'translate' that info into Australian :) The yanks seem to use 2x4s for studs and floor/top plates. I gather 90x35 is the closest equivalent for a 2x4 - is that what you use? and the same for floor and top plates? Also they don't seem to use noggins - is that an Aus standard thing? When I buy a bundle of H2 or H3 from Bunnings most of them have some bow or twist in them. What's acceptable and what isn't? I know you said use the straightest ones for window and door studs. How do you deal w distorted timber? Do you make all the bows face one way and compensate somehow? I can't find any info on this. Would love your advice. Cheers.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Uri Yes, we commonly use 90 x 35 or 90 x 45 instead of 4 x 2s, yes same for flooring and Top Plates. Not sure about the use of noggins in the US but they are a requirement of Australian Standards kzbin.info/www/bejne/i3-Xhphud8yeiJY Page 34 in this document may help www.vba.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/29063/Guide-to-Standards-and-Tolerances-2015.pdf However, this refers to after the straightening process complete, not how you by them out of the store. Personally, I would not buy bulk timber from Bunnings a local timber yard would be better, however, some bowed timber is unavoidable. The worst can be used for the shorter members like the noggins.Yes, all bows should be put in the same direction to make straightening easier as per the How to Straighten a timber wall frame Hope this helps

[@uriuriuri]

Thanks heaps. Yes I saw that video after I commented - great work thank you and happy new year :)

[@australianmade2659]

Uri Auerbach noggins allow you to fix standard plaster sheets on there side. They also stop flex on the stud. Australian sizes will match American measurements as everything originated in imperial before we converted to metric. That why timber comes in lengths of 1200, 1500, 1800, 2100 and so on. It's just feet converted. Our studs are 90x45. That 4"x2".

[@sydneyclassiccarrestoratio7574]

Morning Buildsum, Im really learning a lot from your videos they are explained so well,I was just wondering if you have a video on calculating the correct size for a window opening while you are constructing the frame work. Also are there any measurement standard work sheets for this as a lot of windows are different sizes. Cheers Grant

[@Buildsum]

Hi Grant Have a look at this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIaZd4GMntmLiK8 All window manufacturers have a window schedule that will give you the opening size required for their windows. It should be availble on their website.

[@jivarasulaiman9814]

Great vid , My Question is , what will determine the position of lentil over window opening? do we have to pre measure window opening then lay lentil over? Thanks in advance

[@Buildsum]

+jivara sulaiman Hi Jivara Yes you will need to know the Stud opening dimensions for your window, you will also need to consider the Drop Off of you eaves if you have one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqOcoqpon8eMmdE The lintel should be above this. It is common practice to place the lintel hard up under the top plate and then just frame out to suit the window. Hope this helps

[@jivarasulaiman9814]

+Buildsum Thanks that is helpful!!

[@CASH-TO-THE-MERE101]

jivara sulaiman 👀

[@Salailua71]

Well explained Thank you so much Buildsum

[@CASH-TO-THE-MERE101]

V Kirisome 👑

[@crouchingtiger6319]

GREAT

[@Tekkerz3077]

what program are you using

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate I use SketchUp for all my drawings.

[@Tekkerz3077]

@@Buildsum thanks so much

[@outbackozzie]

Good vids, very helpful for an owner builder :)

[@jerryabraham9920]

Can we do a German braising here?

[@laica12345]

Hi, how can I bulid a free-standing wall (3mts X 3 Mts high) so it does not move side to side, as there is not top plate fixed to the ceiling ?Ta

[@Buildsum]

HI Adrian, good luck with that, unless the wall is going to be connected to the ceiling at both ends then there is no chance of not having it move side to side.

[@laica12345]

@@Buildsum is there a Max wall height limit at which it can be done?

[@Buildsum]

No mate, it will have to be attached to the ceiling at least both ends regardless of height. The connection does not have to be the wall continuing all the way up, you could use decorative features to make the connection and keep the open look going.

[@laica12345]

@@Buildsum Thanks for the advice

[@bersef]

Brilliant. Thanks.

[@Buildsum]

Thanks JB

[@tonyadams6985]

Hi, Thanks for the video..I was wondering for internal walls here in NSW can you have stud spacings of 600mm and can you use 70 x 35 mm structural pine? Also if doing external stud walls, (I was thinking at 450 centres), is it ok to use 70 x 35 also for that? Thanks, Tony

[@Buildsum]

Tony Adams Hi Tony All timber sizes and spacing are determined using the AS 1684 Timber Framing Code and mainly depend on the size and the weight of the roof and the grade of the timber that you are using. Non load bearing internal walls can be 70 x 35 mm structural pine spaced at 600mm centers as the are taking no weight. However I have never seen or calculated 70 x 35 mm structural pine for External Load bearing walls. The smallest I have seen was 70 x 45 however this was for a corrugated iron roof with no notching to the studs. I would suggest that you get hold of a copy of the Timber framing code applicable to your area and have a look at that or consult with a builder or building consultant.

[@tonyadams6985]

Thanks for the answer. I appreciate it Thanks Tony

[@CASH-TO-THE-MERE101]

Tony Adams 👀

[@shaunanderson1356]

very helpful, thanks for the vid!

[@iamluisduarte]

Hi Mr builder. which software do you use to draft those walls?

[@Buildsum]

Hi luis, I use SketchUp for all my drawings

[@Silverloo2525]

do you have to make sure that the 2x6 in the bottom plate split a stud where they end?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Jon This video might help kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqiTYmt9nrCKq9k&lc=Ugw8Uq2CJBnP1eX3WmF4AaABAg

[@misyanti6503]

9

[@rogerlz349]

Hi JOHN, Do you know the software which most framing carpenters use for framing design before they do the job on site? second question is when I brace the frame? after all the wall join together or when each wall still lying on the ground? Thanks. Roger

[@Buildsum]

Hi Roger Personally, i didn't use any software it all comes off the plans. The wall should be braced after they are all stood and plumbed, however, it is common for the bracing to be tacked in place on the ground because it is easier to do then, however, they need to be able to be adjusted if needed once stood.

[@rogerlz349]

is than mean the floor plan is enough for you?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Roger The floor plan and the elevations should give you all the information that you need when used with AS 1684.2

[@ladytradiej8027]

Get frame dimension off plan to build your own. If being made at factory use MiTek 20/20.

[@Raymond-mk8cb]

Why do you need metal bracing if you are going to cover the outside with plywood and the interior with sheetrock?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Raymond, the metal bracing can be used as a tempoary bracing to hold the wall square and plumb while tha ply and the internal lining is installed. Also not all countries sheet the entire out side of the building with ply they only use ply if the metal bracing is not going to be sufficent. Hope this helps.

[@framecad5550]

Really informative video. @Buildsum I made an excel timber frame panel design tool which you might like - cutting list, manuf. drawing etc…would really like to know what you think. Thanks

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate,sounds great, you can send it to [e-mail] if you like.

[@framecad5550]

@@Buildsum great stuff, I'll get it into a send-able state. I took some videos on my channel if you wanted to have a look before hand..?

[@framecad5550]

@@Buildsum is that the correct email? is that 'i' after L correct?

[@Buildsum]

@FrameCAD sorry, [e-mail]

[@framecad5550]

Hi @Buildsum, did you manage to have a look?

[@Anthony-xo3rv]

Thanks for your helpful videos, I'm a graduate structural engineer and I was told that for sheet bracing ( Plywood ) minimum width should be 900 mm to be effective, I was wondering if you use less than 900 mm and do you suggest metal strap or plywood for bracings and what typical sizes are easier to install , thanks

[@alexc5369]

great video mate. just wondering with the ply bracing, is it better to put them on when the wall is flat on the ground, after you get it nice and square, or after it is erected? thanks.

[@Buildsum]

Hi Alex It is easier to attach the ply brace before you erect it however once you stand the wall up you wont be able to plumb it if necessary. I would tack the sheet on in the corners to hold the wall square but still allow you to adjust if after standing if necessary. Thanks for the feedback

[@alexc5369]

Buildsum thanks for replying. what do you mean by plumbing the wall? would you only need to do this if the floor wasnt level? so say it was a timber sub floor, you then erect the wall, and nail the bottom plate down, then, if you havnt attached the ply yet, you have a little bit of lateral movment to get the studs nice and plum, but even if you attach the ply only in the corners you still wouldnt have much lateral movment to play with i think

[@Buildsum]

HI Alex Yes in theory you should only need to plumb the wall if the floor is not level however in practice you always seem to need to adjust slightly. By tacking the corners this will allow you to keep the wall square while you move nd stand the wall and then you can easily release the 2 bottom nails and make the adjustment while the top nails hold the sheet in place. Once all the walls are Plumb you can then go around and nail them all off

[@chadboy6276]

usually they nail the ply wood after the wall is erected

[@cryptogemhunter1]

Hi mate, What software do you use ? Is it sketch up ?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, yes I use SketchUp for all my drawings

[@Danielito-Melo]

Hi Mr. Buildsum thanks for this tutorial. my question is about the dimension, for all framing materials I need this or if you can tell where I find referents books. I working for framing company and I just work like a Drawing person but, if I can help for calculate other material is better for me. Thanks Luis.

[@Buildsum]

Luis Melo Hi Luis in Australia we have Australian Standards that help us to calculate the sizes of the framing members the main one being AS 1684 Timber Framing Code. I would imagine that you would have the same. Other wise most material manufacturers produce their own span tables that you can use to work out the size required for thier products

[@hosseinkiani2748]

Thanks mate

[@Buildsum]

Thank You, Hossein

[@hosseinkiani2748]

@@Buildsum can you please sharing some info about how to contact each walls

[@josephharlem6192]

thanks maite

[@michealbarnes66]

Don't you need a header above the door as well. Can you please explain? Thank you

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mike, If the wall was a load bearing wall then yes you would however they are not required on a non-loadbearing wall. You could make the assumtion that because there is a window in the wall shown then it is most likely an extenal loadbearing wall however it was just drawn to show the members that are in a wall not as an actual wall in a building. Hope this helps

[@jlmer616]

Did you say plate, or plank?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Mate, plate.

[@ryanomoso7173]

Is this also applicable with metal studs and tracks?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Ryan, yes it is the essentually the same for metal frames.

[@tamkeen2011]

hello @buildsum can you tell me the phase of building a house please I need to know this.

[@Buildsum]

+tamkin pashton Hi Tamkin This seems like a good article that should answer your question www.propertyobserver.com.au/finding/residential-investment/house-and-land/17170-the-13-steps-in-the-construction-phase-of-building-a-new-home-jo-chivers.html

[@tamkeen2011]

+Buildsum thank you very much sir. I really appreciate it. I always watch your videos.

[@CASH-TO-THE-MERE101]

T S very good question👏👏👏

[@wwgg1139]

Hi, how much of the wall needs to be covered by diagonal or sheet bracing?

[@Buildsum]

Hi, it depends on the amount of wind load that will act on the building and the amount of resistance that the bracing unit gives. Some framing companies put a diagonal brace on every wall so it easier to install and plumb the walls.

[@sx2000]

thanks for this.... really helpful!

[@RalphGrey-bc8kt]

Where is you Trimmer for the door?

[@mr63249]

Which is the correct framing method? Stagger noggins Level noggins, centered between top and bottom plate

[@mr63249]

Buildsum Ok cheers, can't afford the AS 1684.2, so as a first time renovator just making sure everything I do is to standards

[@mr63249]

Thanks very helpfull

[@CASH-TO-THE-MERE101]

Michael Manning 👍

[@vinnienauta]

What type of program do you use?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Vinnie, I use Sketch Up for all my drawings

[@886014]

Nicely done as always. With very wide lintel, are the multiple jack studs simply nailed together or do they have thin blocking separating each one? When installing a wide lintel into an existing brick veneer wall, it's likely that diagonal bracing will need to be changed for sheet bracing, but I'm not sure how that would be done with the veneer already in place. How is this normally handled, assuming conventional gyprock lining, where you also wouldn't want to affect the wall thickness?

[@Buildsum]

Hi Pete Multiple studs are just nailed to each other, the bottom plate and the lintel itself. As for the bracing i have never really worried about it, the metal diagonal braces contribute very little bracing effect in the whole scheme if things however the only way would be to strip off all the Gyprock on the inside and add the ply brace to that wall then Gryprock back over. There is no way of doing it without increasing the wall thickness thai i know of

[@886014]

Buildsum ok thanks. In the example I was thinking of the plaster will all be coming off anyway, it's a 50 year old house so I may as well straighten the remaining studs as required and hang new gyprock there anyway; a very small cost in the grand scheme of things as I'll definitely be doing all the non-structural work myself anyway. The only way I could think of to sheet brace it would be to pull all the required common and corner stud out too, basically "pre-fab" replacements with the bracing in place, then reinsert into the existing top/bottom plate as one unit, if that makes sense. It would need to be done as the first op, otherwise essentially the whole wall is propped if the lintel is already installed. The only other way I could think of would be to check it in to the front of the studs, but I think that would be very time consuming and not very practical solution.

[@soulinc7804]

Re Nails, Had some say 75 or 90mm.

[@sergioperezarq567]

Hello, Im not native english so I'd like to know if the difference between how we name each peace of a frame wall is because of the english speaking (UK vs EEUU for example). I mean, you say "Jack Studs" and i have seen the same with "Cripple Stud", same with "Header" and "Lintel", "Trimmer" and "Jamb Stud", "King Stud" and "Window Stud". ¡Thanks!

[@sergioperezarq567]

Also "nogging" and "Blocking" (or "Fire Blocking") :)

[@Buildsum]

Hi Sergio I'm sure that the same member is called many different names depending on where you come from, English speaking or not, even here in Australia we have different names depending on the State or Town you were trained in so it is confusing. The names I have used are written in the Australian Standard AS 1684 - Timber Framing Code.

[@sergioperezarq567]

Thank you! Good to know.

[@1200s-e8n]

What is a cripple stud?

[@Buildsum]

Hi David, a cripple stud would be the same as what I call a Jack Stud. In other words, a member that is shorter than the standard length members in the wall.

[@1200s-e8n]

Makes sense, thanks! Sincerely DIY rookie, lol.

[@CASH-TO-THE-MERE101]

👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🔥🔥🔥

[@Buildsum]

Thanks Mate

[@grahamcailes3563]

A noggin is a measure of drink. The correct term is a nog, with the installed material called nogging.

[@cookdislander4372]

Sounds like you got hit hard in the noggin? It's called a dwang bro? ;😜 😎 🤙🇳🇿

[@alexscott852]

What software is this?

[@Buildsum]

+Alex Scott (AlexDesign) Hi Alex It's Google SketchUp

[@seanmolloy9422]

settings, playback speed, 1.75x

[@tomtcy]

Hi Buildsum, what software did you use to draw and demonstrate the frame?

[@Buildsum]

+Chunyang Tai Hi Chunyany i use Google SketchUp for all my drawings

[@tomtcy]

Thank you for your prompt reply! I actually just realised by going into your channel which clearly states Google SketchUp is being used. Love you channel - very informative, straightforward and clear.