Bundy Clarinet Repad

Not much about a clarinet repad is very complicated or technical. If you want to learn how to do these repairs for yourself, check out my full Online Repair Masterclass course at www.repairmasterclass.com
Do you have a repair question you’d like answered? Just email me or leave a comment here and I’ll do my best to get back with you.
Join me LIVE every 3rd Friday where I spend an hour on a deep dive into one aspect of instrument repair. See the schedule and sign up here: www.repairmasterclass.com/Gro...
If you’re interested in repairing your own instrument, you may want my free Emergency Repair Guide available at www.repairmasterclass.com/ERG; It’s packed full of information on quick repairs for Band and Orchestra instruments and is the perfect tool to help get you back on stage!
Music on today’s video is from Podington Bear.

[@NH-gz2kh]

great informative video thanks!

[@repairmasterclass]

Glad it was helpful!

[@meditationandaffirmation1680]

Is it possible to make the clarinet's mechanism return faster?

[@repairmasterclass]

It is possible. Typically when keys feel slower than you'd like them to be, it means the keys need to be removed, cleaned and lubricated. When this is done, most of these needs go away with the gunk that's removed. Two other options are there could be a bend or bind in the key that needs addressed or, more spring tension could be added. All of these options can potentially make the mechanisms return faster.

[@Drumn4J2]

Is it usually obvious for you when key bending is the proper way to adjust fit of a pad over a tone hole vs applying heat to re-float a pad? And do you choose one method over the other when working on a fully assembled clarinet vs one where the keys are loose? Thanks!

[@repairmasterclass]

This is a great question and one worth of a video. In the mean time: when installing new pads, floating is always the method. The only reason to bend a key at this point is if the pad cup is not properly aligned over the tone hole. Now, if the pad you’re working on WAS installed and working properly, but for some reason is not now, then most likely the key has been bent and needs moved back. Clarinet keys almost always bend side to side and not front to back (with the key arm being the back of the cup)… but that said, we must never forget the remarkable skills of junior high students. 😉 If the key is bent, attempting to bend it back and get it to balance all around with equal pressure is my fist attempt. If after the key geometry has been restored and I can not get the pad to balance correctly, Jen I attempt to re-float the pad but most of the time it will not work well on a pad already installed and instead needs to be replaced. Hope this helps a bit.

[@Drumn4J2]

@@repairmasterclass Nice summary. Thanks for the reply.

[@Itsa_me_stephanieee]

I have a major issue with my clarinets f natural, it’s veryyyy low, I’ve never had this issue until I got this new clarinet, do you have any tips or suggestions?

[@repairmasterclass]

So sorry, I've been on a trip. Depending on which F you're talking about so let's run em down: on the staff = the register key may not be opening far enough. Sand the cork down or bend the key up. HIGH F on the staff = the bridge key may not be in proper adjustment so the lower ring key pad is not making contact. Adjust the bridge key. F ABOVE the staff = might be a leaking key at the bottom... F BELOW the staff = could be any number of issues. Do you have a tech you trust locally?