Petticoat Sew Along Part 3

[@jenniferdonaldson9373]

After fiddling with the pleats for a while, I realized that the pleating is done on the right side of the fabric. Just wanted to share my mistake, in case there is anyone else struggling with this🤪.

[@corinnesteigerwald2373]

Thank you again! So very helpful - the tips on basting the top, the double pins to make the pleats stay in place and the 2 ways to secure the waist tape. Almost done and will have to order more fabric from you! Also learned more about the importance of SHARP needles and the use of thimbles. Must re-read about appropriate threads.

[@sewwithmsjones1196]

Now I need to make a petticoat for my long-haired dachshund Sasha!

[@darlasparrow]

I did it! Thank you for this excellent sew along tutorial. And I just had to let you know I basted my pleats. 😊🧵🪡

[@LunaChilde22]

TOTALLY feeling the 3 AM before the event! At that point, I can’t even word, let alone math!

[@astra1653]

Oh, definitely! Puppercoat for the win! All the wins! And treats! More treats for Aggie (and the other darling too, of course)!

[@commodorezelda]

Aggie is so cute and sweet!! Thanks to this series I think I'll always end up calling my petticoats "puppercoats"

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Zo 😁😁😁

[@ajabell5058]

Thank you so much for these videos! The Pupper guest stars are adorable!!! These videos are easy to follow and incredibly helpful. Many many Thanks!

[@oliviamarie121]

dogs in 18th century petticoats are my new favourite thing!!!!!

[@SilviadazJones]

I need to see Aggie in full kit please! (Perhaps not stays)

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Love that idea! 😄

[@naminicholson5815]

I had to remind myself that I only needed one waist tape for my single-slit underpetticoat, and two for my outer petticoat.

[@melissapotter7976]

I’ve been sewing face masks for the last few weeks. So happy for these videos to help me get over my fear of hand stitching! lol My daughter and I are making our kit and have joined the 2nd Mass. We’re anxious to make our petticoats and bed gowns, but need to hone our sewing skills before cutting into $20/yard linen!! 😬 Thanks again!!

[@corinnesteigerwald2373]

Angie is adorable!

[@karenswortzel194]

I love the dress/top you are wearing

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Christina says thanks!

[@thearchivemermaid2033]

But what are we making next? As a beginner these are lifesaving! Now if you'll excuse me back to lamenting over my fan skirt...

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Katrina DeKarver an apron is next!

[@iamoscarwilde]

Not only helpful, but also adorable!! thank you!

[@amr4211]

Yay. Found it when it had been posted only two seconds!

[@spacemachine]

Hi! In general how much overlap is there between the front and back panel? For example, my waist measurement is 33 inches, half of that is 16.5 The first time I made this, I made the overlap way too wide (for some reason... each pleated panel was 27 inches!) so I am unpicking it and redoing it. I want to make sure it overlaps so it doesn't gape but also that it isn't so much of an overlap like last time. Appreciate your thoughts or any examples :)

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Usually an inch to inch and one half is plenty

[@lauraevans9945]

I am loving this sew along! The next one is a petticoat, but I noticed you don't have a skirt sew along I would love if you did one so I could make a simple skirt to wear over the petticoat (and pockets?)

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi Laura, in the 18thc a “skirt” was called a petticoat. What you would think of as a petticoat was called an under petticoat. We have a hack for the under petticoat and you can follow the petticoat sew along to make your “skirt”.

[@peggyriordan9857]

Thank you for these videos. I love the refreshers and I admire your dedication to hand-stitching. I also believe in basting! Nice to see someone else does too. Looking forward to all of the future videos!

[@juls_krsslr7908]

Thank you for this! I have a question about pleating. I am having a hard time making the waist line small enough. For me, each quarter should be around 6 to 6.5 inches. My pleats were about 1 inch (I did it by eye) and each quarter wound up about 7 inches, so it was a little loose. So I pleated again and made the pleats 1.5 inches and the waist was bigger. Next, I made the pleats smaller, around 3/4 inch, but the waist was still bigger! In the end, I went back to 1 inch pleats and overlapped them on the back a little. Is there a better way to do this? Should I start with less fabric? I used 2.5 yards. I am going through all of the sew-alongs in order. I made pockets, and now I'm working on the under petticoat. I am going to make the outer petticoat next. I am also making stays, so my waist size could be even smaller when they're done.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi! Did you use 2.5 yards railroaded, or did you have two panels 60 inches wide? As for pleating, it is perfectly fine for them to stack on top of each other a bit. You will find originals who have different numbers of pleats on each side and front to back! It is all done by eye which takes the stress out of doing math!

[@juls_krsslr7908]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge I used the method Brooke showed in the under petticoat Hack video. So I measured 2.5 yards, then pulled a thread at 28 inches to cut. I have enough linen left over to make another under petticoat, so I might do that eventually. If I can overlap the pleats, it works, as long as the fabric is not too thick. Thanks for replying! My under petticoat looks great, even if it's a little loose in the waist. Now, on to the over petticoat!

[@Loweene_Ancalimon]

I'm curious about the ties. Were they always a separate tape, or were some cut from the main fabric, as to not have the tape be visible, especially for heavier outer petticoats, where you can't use the second technique you showed ? I know the short gown should cover it, but still, I'm wondering.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

It was a matter of practice that tapes were used. You do occasionally see self fabric used to tape the body of the petticoat, but then tapes were always added as the ties, never self fabric.

[@bettyblaze5714]

Thank you for all this videos. I would be lost without it. Do you also use linen tape for a wool petticoat?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Yes typically linen is what you find

[@zippyelly]

Omg an actual puppercoat! 😂♥️

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

ZippyElly 🤣😂🤣yes I guess it is ❤️

[@nathaliebethea7677]

Thank you for this easy explanation... it helps me see the steps clearly and now i believe i can do this. ❤ I am a novice at sewing my first historically inspired outfit. What kind of fabric could i use to make a petty coat to match a slate velvet jacket ? I just cant choose 😢...there are so many choices.

[@angelaburnley6904]

With velvet I would look for a pretty silk to make a petticoat out of or possibly a fine worsted wool.

[@Sabatuar]

Do the pleats need any permanent stitches aside from the waist-tapes?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

They do not. Once the waist tape is one you can remove any basting and you're good to go!

[@amandarichard4739]

would it be stupid to make and wear this type of skirt if i do not have stays? will they roll down or be super uncomfortable?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

I don’t think so. It will just ride a little differently. Many people have made one for everyday wear .

[@amandarichard4739]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thanks for the fast reply. I have some tartan that I’d like to use for this. I want to eventually make some stays, but I’m so nervous lol!

[@saritshull3909]

The second method is nice if you want the option to wear the petticoat as a modern outer skirt. (The slits would make me to nervous to not wear a petticoat though)

[@lauraevans9945]

How do you recommend securing the pleats? Also do you have videos in the different pleats you mentioned?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

You can pin pin pin then do the finished sewing or you can run basting stitches to secure. You see the latter method in the skirts of gowns in the 18thc.

[@rachelostergaard1182]

I'm making this for a cotton underpetticoat, I'm new to sewing and historical fashion. Is this too bulky for an underpetticoat? I'm looking into mid to late-1800 dresses to go over the top.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

This would not if you are making 19thc petticoats to go over it as you stated. If you are making 18thc petticoats I would suggest that you make the petticoat slightly smaller in circumference, so around 90 inches. This gives what is needed to fill out the fashion petticoat without too much bulk. You can also close the under-petticoat center back which avoids so many ties.

[@kathleens6837]

Did you pre wash the fabric before constructing? I'm assuming this was done in preperation of constructing the petticote, what are your recommendations?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Yes we do pre-wash. You can check here for details on preparing your fabrics. www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/washandcareoffabric.aspx

[@lauraevans9945]

I am about to finish my first petticoat. I noticed you have a shift sew along, but your shirt sew along is for the men's undergarment. What was worn over a shift? I am not necessarily looking for complete historical accuracy with the outfit I am making so I may not make a shift, but I do need something for my upper half. This is just something I am doing as a hobby with no intention body using it as a costume.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

You can certainly make a shirt or you can make our bedgown. Both upper garments and sew alongs on our channel.

[@lauraevans9945]

Really exciting to hear because I didn't particularly want to wear the petticoat with a modern shirt. I'll probably end up making both 😂 I'm getting addicted to these sew alongs 😍😂 I'll also make a shift someday, but the video for that was really long (which makes sense) and I want to wear this soon (I'm just excited no other reason). I love your sew alongs and can't wait to do more ❤️

[@hannahbradshaw2186]

Is it possible to pleat the panels before seaming? I'm finding it hard keeping the pleats even and straight.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Sure you can do it in the sequence if it’s helpful for you

[@Nzie]

This is really great! Thanks for making these. Can I ask, how would this be adjusted for large side hoops/panniers? Presumably you can't just put it over a bigger one or it would end up uneven, but I can't think how I'd cut it to account for a large hip.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

We will be doing a video to show you just that! Stay tuned it will be in our tips and tricks when we get it up!

[@Nzie]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Yay! Very much looking forward to that!

[@kathleens6837]

If I order a light wool stuff, how much extra should I order to account for shrinkege?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Kathleen S 2-3 inches is more then enough

[@kathleens6837]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thank you.

[@JLWell76]

Are you doing pleating from the inside of the skirt, also are you making the pleats while the tape is still pinned on?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

we filmed it so you could see pleating. We will demonstrate during the live so you can ask your questions! What you were seeing was the front face of the petticoat. Brooke decided to pleat matching pins (quarter points) and then pin to the tape. It can be easier that way laying it flat on a table.

[@coolthinghere6853]

me, a mad scientist: irons hem tape in half, pins it to cover the raw edge and sews only once thru all three layers ...or i would if i had spare fabric for this project lol

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

CoolThingHere haha! It is a bit easier if you sew each side independently 😁

[@mistyroller3470]

Wrong. It's 3:45, not 3. ;) Question: if I'm not going to wear it too frequently can i use ribbons for the waist tape? (Sorry, absolute beginner here)

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Misty Roller I can’t say I’ve seen ribbons. My one concern would be that ribbon tends to slip, so you might have problems keeping your petticoat tight around your waist.

[@Diniecita]

So would a quilted petticoat always be an under petticoat?? I mean under puppercoat?? 😂

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

😂😂 Great question! Quilted petticoats are often worn as exterior petticoats with gowns, so not necessarily an underpuppercoat.

[@Diniecita]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thanks. Im making a quilted puppercoat. I’m just extra like that. And I love them. So warm.