Shift Sew Along Part One

[@lafilleduvoyageur6557]

Thank you for taking the time to create such a detailed video. The way you demonstrate how body measurements relate to the cutting diagram sets this video a cut above the rest. Your explanations are so clear! Merci!

[@MendyLady]

As an experienced costumer who has at one time built all of these items, whether by hand or machine, I'm really enjoying this series. Not only am I learning the odd bit, but it's also lovely company while I sew!

[@FernyCeramics]

I found you via Bernadette Banner, thanks for the sew along, can't wait

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Bernadette is a amazing! For those of you who do not follow her, please check her out! kzbin.info/door/SHtaUm-FjUps090S7crO4Q

[@MossyMozart]

@Jami Fowler - Also referred by Willoughby & Rose.

[@waltervelleda]

when Christina says at 1:10 "if you don't enjoy them [the videos], you should really tell us" all i think is that one must be mad, because the videos are saving lives! thank you all so much for all the love and hard work 🥰

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Thank you so much!

[@AuroraCeleste]

Yes, this! I can't use the machine and watch the kids, and your explanations of how to do all the stitches have given me the confidence to keep costuming anyway!

[@PowerToolsnPearls]

Walter Velleda ...and saving money ...and saving fabric ♥️♥️♥️

[@waltervelleda]

@@PowerToolsnPearls EXACTLY! hahahahaha

[@SewZara]

I am just getting started in historical dress and I find these videos to be extremely helpful. Please don't stop! These are so interesting and helpful! I get to escape my house and step back to yesteryear and learn how clothing was made and how efficiently cloth was used to do it.

[@mrjones2721]

I always wash on hot and dry on high ("boil and bake") even if the garment is going to be treated more gently once it's made, because then there's leeway if the garment does end up getting rougher laundering. (A professionally trained seamstress I know does it twice.) Also, if the fabric wants to shrink, it's going to find a way to shrink, so you might as well get all the shrinkage out of the way.

[@thearchivemermaid2033]

I am so ready! The amount of linen I wish to purchase for all my projects is ridiculous!

[@celticgoddess81]

I enjoy these greatly! SO please please please don't stop. They are helping me keep my sanity. :D

[@ej075]

Thank you so much for doing these! This sew-song series is exactly what I need to start my historical costuming journey. Please know we really dig them!

[@slsweetland21]

This is exactly the kind of thing I’ve been looking for! I’ve been trying to figure out the diagramming for a bit and this helps things “click!” This is my first shift so I was pretty nervous! Thank you!!

[@QueenofMarine]

I am so grateful these videos exist!! This is exactly what I was hoping to find as a beginner making my very first historical piece. Thank you!💛

[@lifebeyondtheview7354]

I am so excited to have come across your channel just in time for this Sew Along. I have been interested in making my own historical garments for some time but have not had the confidence in my knowledge of garment construction to take the first step. Now I feel motivated and with your guidance won't be doing it by myself. Thank you ...I'm off to order some linen :))

[@melissapotter7976]

I had a cotton muslin shift cut and about half finished by machine. Then I decided to hand sew it. I picked out 11 billion tiny machine stitches and ironed it out. I’m now faced with pieces ready to put together, so this is absolutely perfect timing!! I also just purchased (and washed!!) some light weight, $14 per yard, linen. I want to make absolutely sure I have my technique down before I cut into it. 😬 Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

You'll love next week's video when we start stitching then ♥️😁

[@jessicamillund1351]

I have watched multiple shift tutorials and this has made the most sense to me. I wish I had found this before cutting 😕 but all is not lost because at least I cut too big. I have big hips and small shoulders and was worried about how much fabric I was going to have to gather at the neckline but now I will just trim as you demonstrated. Thank you for this video series! It sounds like it will cover all the items on my To Do list and I am very pleased!

[@pattikubacki622]

WOW!! This is going to be a challenge. I will need to watch this video several more times before I even attempt to cut out anything. Not totally lost but not confident about what to do either. The pocket and apron sew alongs I was good with. This one I'm a little worried about, to tell the truth. I have such beautiful Irish linen material I don't want to mess it up.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Patterning from scratch can feel a bit overwhelming at first, so be sure to take it slow and steady. Start with your measures and then practice making a diagram on paper a couple of times if you aren't sure. Feel free to share a picture of your diagram with us on Facebook and we can tell you if you're on the right track! If it helps, you could use newspaper or butcher paper to plot your pattern in full size before you cut into your linen. Then once you have a full size version you like you can use that the same way you would a regular paper pattern.

[@PowerToolsnPearls]

Patti Kubacki you can also use an old sheet if you have no cheap muslin on hand for practice. If the idea of cutting anything is stopping you, use a basting stitch to put pieces together before cutting. You can hold it up to your body for a better idea of fit. We all have different triggers of doubt. Mine is my sewing machine! I’ve got endless patterns cut and basted, but never finished because that terrifying machine is the next step. Ugh 😫 the anxiety is real! While I realize no one can go thrifting at the moment, old bed linens are a MUST have item for practice and mock-ups! I frequently buy King size sheets for $3. I reuse them as more permanent and fitted patterns when I want to remake a favorite design in a different fabric, color, or fashion pattern (polka dots or stripes, etc.) You’ll never upset yourself over cutting into a $3 giant fabric. You may even encourage the kids to cut along with you! Yay 😃 for helping hands!!!

[@pattikubacki8920]

PowerToolsnPearls thank you for the advice. I appreciate it very much.

[@pattikubacki8920]

Burnley and Trowbridge Co. thank you I will try

[@lizziedawson4941]

Thank you so much for taking the time to make these sew-alongs. Although I have made shifts before, I am learning more and it has inspired me to sew along -- this time practising cutting using thread pulling. Also, digging the dungarees ;)

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Christina says thanks!

[@leisongivangomo4478]

Excellent video! Well explained!

[@kirdi6125]

As a person new to historical sewing these are super helpful, Christina. Please don't stop.

[@christinapapp7143]

Fantastic video loaded with great information. Thank you, B&T!!

[@Joyful.0939]

I really enjoy your videos! Thank you so much!!

[@jenbergeron7955]

Thank you for such good instructions! I have all my supplies but just haven't gotten the courage to begin...this is incredibly helpful! Looking forward to more!

[@monstersmomma8594]

Love love love these sew alongs! Building our first shift and work shirt for our costumes!

[@Spacebuny]

Thank you for this sew along! I have really enjoyed this series!

[@peggyriordan9857]

I liked this video and look forward to all of the next steps. I enjoyed hearing the history of the reasoning behind how people dressed and the purpose of the layers.

[@HosCreates]

I've gotten into historical sewing and am listening as I sew lacing holes for my stays. I hope they fit !

[@leisongivangomo4478]

37:43: pulling thread… please consider a video on closeup of this process

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Great idea Leisongi! We'll add this to our list for future videos.

[@sophiek.4343]

Really grateful for your videos across the pond here. Take care!

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

thank you!

[@RavenStealstheNight]

I dig it, I really do!!! 😊 Keep up the good work!!

[@lesmohr6289]

I enjoy learning

[@betseyb1704]

Book marked these all as they came out and finally just got my linen and graphing paper all prepped and measured! 😈 Look out breezy summer nightie - here I come.

[@SarahBent]

As always a very helpful tutorial. As a larger person working with 54" wide linen, I wanted to offer another suggestion for economical cutting - I am cutting a shift for my 12 year old daughter from the other side.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

That's a great idea!

[@janicela9863]

Thanks for sharing!

[@yolandaagnew2508]

Love it!

[@fernandodelacuadra9703]

Dear Christina, you are not only a very clear and thorough tutor in your explanations, but you are also a very pleasant, beautiful and charming lady!! ♥ My very best regards from Santiago, Chile. ♥♥

[@Tkkmakeupdesign]

I just found these videos and they're so wonderful!! Thank you for putting the effort into them. Also, found your website through these videos.

[@stell66]

Thank you for this, i realise that I use tee shirts in the way you talk but shifts being used, my tee shirt gets washed/changed everyday - but the layers outside of my tee shirt get aired,brushed and put away - they dont get washed very often. And of course lower undies - guess is the increased use of jersey - or underwear jersey lead to this new use (if only washing machine and laundry detergent companies had not marketed how clean was to wash clothes every day…)

[@emilinebelle7811]

You guys do GREAT!!

[@sara-luisesmith5326]

Loved the mouse voice when you fast forwarded! Hilarious!

[@chericovalt9540]

Love the video with great information! Thank you!

[@vickiseals9742]

Thank you for showing how to measure by yourself. Really appreciate all the work you put into the sew alongs.

[@BlackCatLover]

I am new to historical dress and I’m watching many videos. I’ve been wanting to sew a shift using linen but it will be my first project using this fabric! I must say I really love this video since it is so comprehensive and the project is approached with seriousness and respect which I value very much as it does make the experience so relaxing and informative. Thank you for giving us this channel and the sew along series for me to explore and learn. I’m really curious about the specifics of which fabric weight is used, the type of thread, weight & number of plys, and whether you are using a single strand (is my guess).

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hello! We are using our shirt/shift linen which is a lightweight linen. A 80/3 or 60/2 white linen thread is perfect for this project. Single threads always! Glad you are enjoying our sew alongs!!!

[@kathleens6837]

I appreciate the best use of fabric. I HATE the waste in prefab patterns. Thank you.

[@kitdubhran2968]

I have just been watching some of your previous sew alongs. Don’t stop making them! These are wonderful! This one in particular is helpful because I’m actually trying to make a shift right now. Very timely! Thanks so much for this! ❤️❤️❤️

[@corinnesteigerwald2373]

This video is so helpful. I have watched and re-watched each step of the way.. Thank you for being so patient and forgiving of our big stitches.....getting smaller as I progress

[@terryech9110]

LOVE these videos!!! Please continue!

[@missannie8012]

Thanks

[@ratoncolorado7227]

Knowledge of the lost, great info in these vids, although looking for more utilitarian shorts and pants.

[@digitaldgirl4459]

Love your sew along. So nice to get educated on the historical sewing projects. I am a life long seamstress, but on just now getting to get some other background education. Keep up the good work.

[@jillk297]

Super well done explanations, and love the info about minimizing waste. Thank you, please keep up the good work !!

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Thank you!!

[@LovemySi]

Omg! So dumb, but I’m totally excited that you’re left handed! 😂 Yay for lefties!!

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

LovemySi 😁👍🏻

[@annesullivan1171]

Just discovered you and I love. You are so good at explaining as I was searching for good shift and kirtle tutorials 😊❤️

[@kimberly_erin]

I absolutely love these sew alongs!

[@Aarlenen]

I’m digging all of them.

[@nizarahdragon3973]

Some Christmas rap has a grid on the back great for pattern making

[@sophisteacated]

Yay! Will you be doing a video about altering this method or another method for doing a gathered sleeve? 💜

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

we do have a tutorial on attaching a cuff, and can certainly put together a video doing the earlier sleeve with cuff for sure!

[@sophisteacated]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge yes please!! 🥰 Your sewalongs are carrying me through quarantine tbh 😂

[@apwhoa7767]

Pulling threads? Please explain

[@robinm2699]

Well done!

[@Emmajen]

Love this!!! Please do more of these!!!

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Be sure to subscribe! We will!

[@Rotten_Ralph]

I tonight finally finished my Apron... onwards to the shif

[@Supercoolperson11]

Can we appreciate that she like comments a year later

[@shmuelarom5773]

Is there a chance for a "shirt-sew along" for men ? Including the neck gussets, collar and so on ?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

There just might be! We'll add it to our suggestions list 🥰

[@plinkiplonk]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Can I please second that request? You can hardly move on KZbin without hitting instructions to make stays etc, but virtually nothing historical for men. :(

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

We will certainly fill in the gap!

[@elizabethsloan3192]

I love these sew alongs!

[@papillonmjb]

I would participate in this sew along if there was an example of what you're making somewhere in the video. I guess it's really a mystery sew along.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi MJB! We have lots of examples of shifts on the B&T pinterest boards and we also have a pattern for this shift in miniature on our website if you would like to view a half scale version of the finished garment.

[@Loweene_Ancalimon]

It's lovely ! I just watched it all in one sitting, and I'll be drawing the diagram to know how much fabric to order tomorrow. I do have a few questions : - Will you be doing a video about slightly older shifts, from the first half of the century ? Or maybe do a small video about the differences btw this later shift and the earlier ones ? - What linen are you using ? Is it the light cambric ? It looks so translucent !

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

We are using our regular shirt/shift linen which is a lightweight linen. As for future videos, we have plans to show you how to do the earlier sleeve with cuff!

[@Loweene_Ancalimon]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thank you ! How much longer would the arm be ? Around halfway btw elbow and wrist ? + cuff. I'm trying to figure out how much fabric to order

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Depending on how much fullness you want (some earlier shifts with cuffs fold over themselves with flouf) will determine the actual length, but if you plan for 20 inches that should be plenty of length to work with and will help you make sure you have purchased enough fabric.

[@Loweene_Ancalimon]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thank you very much ! I'll add that in my graph, math it out and place the order !

[@annpage7336]

Thank you so much!! This was very helpful.

[@melanialupu]

These were very helpful instructions, but also, I really enjoy hearing you talking. You have a very soothing voice. Don't know if you are planning to do any videos on stays, but I really have questions about fitting those. I really liked a pattern from POF5, so I enlarged that, but I don't really know where the various parts of it should be hitting, really. Where the tabs begin, relative to the actual waist, the length in the front, from the waist down, the shape of the underarm curve... Ah, so many unknowns... :)

[@patr3199]

this was great, and very detailed, loved the diagrams! what seam allowance do you typically use? 1/2"? thanks!

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

We build with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, but if you are not comfortable with your sewing skills yet, go ahead and cut with a 3/8 to 1/2 seam allowance. Once you feel comfortable with your sewing you can graduate to the 1/4 inch seam allowance!

[@patr3199]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thanks! I have made a basic shift with no gores and I went with 1/2" allowances and felled all the seams (your stitch tutorials were a great help) - I'm looking forward to trying this draft and a different style!

[@Caroline-vu9xg]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Is your 1/4 seam allowance built into the tutorial/cut of the shift? Would I need to add extra before cutting if I wanted a larger seam allowance (thus meaning I would need to cut new gores since those would also need the new seam allowance?) Thanks!

[@Hippiepunkerbraut]

a lefty sister

[@101Tribal]

Totally awesome video! I love the way you explain things! I have a question! If I were to transform this shift into a 17th Century shift, other than the sleeves that would be wider and longer (with cuff or frill), how could I transform the neckline to create the off-the-shoulders look of the 17th Century (around 1660 as an example)? Thank you and keep up the good work! :)

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

This really just involves a wider, oval neckline. When we get to this part of the videos you will see how to plan your neckline. At that time you can make the necessary adjustments,

[@ceciliavaldes3159]

I love your sew alongs! So organized, detail oriented, and accessible to beginners like me. I just have a question: how many yards more or less is the shift taking for you? I know it varies from person to person but I would love to have a rough estimate for reference. You are doing an awesome job. I’m loving this series. Have you considered doing sew alongs on pocket hoops and other skirt supports in the future? Those would be very VERY helpful. Blessings to you and yours :)

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Most people can get a shift out of 2.5 yards of fabric. Interestingly, you can get two shifts out of three yards with the right cutting diagram, so you can actually get better economy of fabric making two than you can just making one. 😁

[@ceciliavaldes3159]

Burnley and Trowbridge Co. Thank you so much for your guidance. That is so interesting!!! I’m truly enjoying the sew alongs and appreciate all the hard work you all are putting into it. The historical information in this episode really adds a special touch to it. Blessings to you and yours :)

[@sandyjusak7990]

How much ease do you put in the overall bust measurement..approx.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Christina likes to make sure she has at least 4 inches or so of ease but she likes her shifts to be closer fitting in the torso. Four inches is probably the lowest you would want to go but you could definitely have more than that. The fullness of the torso will be controlled by the stays worn on top so the shoulder fit is going to be more important than anything else.

[@andreagbee]

Just wanted to let you know, these have literally gotten me through this quarantine. I’m high risk, due to health problems, and literally haven’t left my house since I had a 2 week surgery check up mid March 😰

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

We never realized how much of an impact they would have but are so happy that they are bringing a little bit of light right now. ❤️❤️

[@adriananavarro1325]

omg this is all ive wanted to do thank u!

[@kathleens6837]

Would love to have that tape measure!

[@ChocoBananaCh]

Thank you for the tutorial! Question on washing, I'm the kind of person that prefers to handwash their undergarments for fear of damage. And I often handwash clothes in cold water. I also live by the equator so it's practically hot and humid 365 days a year. Should I still prewash & handwash my linen in hot water before making a shift? Thank you.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Yes, this creates maximum shrinking and you will not have any issues in the future when washing.

[@Rachel-cr6ov]

about to dip my toe into historical costuming with this, so thank you! if I'm working with linen that's 58 inches wide, would I forgo cutting out my body piece on the fold at the top and just cut out a second piece from the other half of the linen? and in that case, does that mean I'd have to add a shoulder seam along the top? thanks! :)

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi typically shifts are cut on the fold, because linen for shifts was woven to body width. It’s was not unheard of to have shoulder seams (hidden under shoulder reinforcements) just unusual.

[@Rachel-cr6ov]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge okay! in that case, if I cut out my shift along a 30 inch half of my 60 inch wide fabric, I guess that other half of the fabric just be left over?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

@@Rachel-cr6ov yes or you can cut two shifts!

[@Rachel-cr6ov]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge oh very cool! thank you SO MUCH for responding so quickly, I'm really excited to start sewing this over the holidays! ☺️

[@drhelenloney1426]

5’5” is not shorter, we are perfect! Everyone else is wrong ;)

[@b.welborndressmaker5420]

Exactly...and 5'4" is even more perfect then, right?

[@PowerToolsnPearls]

Helen Loney Huzzah! My fellow fun sized humans! 🎉😘

[@juliajane9290]

5'3"! I'm Travel Sized!

[@MossyMozart]

@Helen Loney - 5' 1-1/2" - Both okey & dokey!

[@AlaskanCookie]

5’5” is technically the average height for a woman.

[@gerdine9258]

I have watched several 'making shifts' video's now, but the thing nobody is mentioning is the weight of the linen and the characteristics of the different weights. What is the 'normal' weight for a linen shift? Differs that through the ages, or is it just personal preference? What are the pro's and con's of very light or heavy/dense linen for shifts?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Medium to light seems to be the tendency for shifts. Thread counts are typically high and the linen is tightly woven in originals.

[@AuroraCeleste]

NGL I'm really freaked out about not adding any more than 1/4" seam allowances to anything. Are the seams that narrow? Also, some of the sleeves on the 18th ct dresses are pretty fitted, did they ever peg the sleeves to make them more narrow profile under the fitted sleeves?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hems are often as small as 1/16th of an inch but can be larger. If adding more seam allowance makes you feel more comfortable you could go up to 1/2 inch and you'll be fine. It doesn't seem like there is any shaping to the sleeves to help them fit, at least on this version. Fuller sleeves gathered to a cuff are still cut out as a rectangle but could be pressed down into pleats to tame the fullness. This was much easier to accomplish with that wonderful 18th century linen, though, and can be harder to do as effectively with modern materials.

[@HoneyBear36]

What measurement (?) for space do you recommend using between the dots. Or how many dots across and down? I printed some but i don’t think it has enough space or I just can’t wrap my head around the maths to make it work for me.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Christina used her planner dot paper and made each space between the dot equal to one inch. Because she also does not like the maths 🤣

[@HoneyBear36]

Burnley and Trowbridge Co. turns out I was just really tired. I just had to do some work around to make it work but I think I got it all marked out. Math has never been my strong suit but late night math is a definite no.

[@RT-wm3wb]

I have watched this quite many times but I still don't understand do I have to cut two body pieces?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

It is one body piece which is then folded in half to create the shoulder

[@wildmtnthyme9057]

fabulous video. curious on drape differences cutting sleeves on crossgrain. Suprised at that.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Linen is dimensionally stable so usually you won’t have more give in warp or weft.

[@barefacedquestions]

How should I draw a diagram if I use metric? For example, my shoulder to hem is 94cm, divided by 2 is 47, and my paper doesn't have enough squares.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi Trang, If you're using metric you may have to make adaptations to your scale. You can decide how many cm to allot per square to keep your diagram small enough to fit on the page.

[@kendalljennings3417]

What's the best weight of fabric to use for this shift? I made a 14th cent. shift years ago that turned out to be see-through! I'm guessing that's not what you want for this shift, right? 😅

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

For a more opaque linen I would look at something about 5 ounces or above.

[@katrose5572]

what thread count would the linen have been?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi Kat, Originals were thread counts of 50 to over 100. The density of the yarn also impacted the weight and tightness of the weave.

[@astuart3504]

Please keep these videos coming! I have a question about cutting out my sleeves and other bits. If I pull threads like you suggest I'll have a pulled thread going across my reinforcement strips for the arm hole & gusset. Is this a problem? If not, is there a part of the shift you never want a pulled thread going across?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi! You want to pull so you don’t interfere with the other pieces. So if it needs to stop at a point, pull the cross thread so that when you get close to where you want to end you can see which thread it is and you can snip it.

[@astuart3504]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thank you so much! I really appreciate how you all answer everyone's questions.

[@yasicles3549]

I unfortunately don't have enough fabric to cut the body on fold, but i do have enough to cut two seperate bodies. Should I just cut them separately and see the shoulders together? Is it possible?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Yes! There is evidence for extants occasionally done this way. When you sew the shoulder seams, sew them with wrong sides together. This will make an finished seam on the inside. You will then cover then raw edges of the seam with the shoulder reinforcement. Good luck!

[@yasicles3549]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thank you so much! And thank you for getting back to me so quickly 💗 this is the first historical garment I'm making and these videos are so helpful

[@artheaded1]

The linen you're using is so beautifully sheer. What is the weight of it? Is it handkerchief linen? Some information about the different weights of linen available and what works best for a project like this would have been really helpful. The linen I find at JoAnne Fabrics is NOT as nice and fine as what you're using here.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi KK! Check out our archived live from a couple of weeks ago where we discussed linen weights appropriate for shifts: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qp7Kcn2HfdqqkMk Good linen can be very hard to come by these days, which is why Angela is so particular in sourcing linens offered at B&T. Since many major fabric retailers don't specialize in historical textiles it can be a bit trickier to find the right materials with consistency from stores where there is much less direct control of the supply chain.

[@clairehalloin8499]

At what point does the bust measurement get incorporated? It seems like the shift body is based solely on the shoulder measurement. What would I do for a bustier figure where the shoulders are much narrower than the bust? TIA!

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi Claire. The bust measurement is really a safety measurement used to verify that your cutting diagram will yield a bust measure that isn't too small for your body. In your case with narrow shoulders, if your diagram measurement shows that the bust measure is still too small, you might consider increasing the width of your linen (instead of using 30ish inches, go up to 35 or 36 and see if that gives you a better result. In the period shirt/shift linens seemed to come in 7/8 yd wide, 3/4 yd wide, and yard wide. Those widths are essentially what determine the "size" of the shift. If you need more room for the bust, "size up" the width, maintain your original shoulder measure, and that should get you on the right track. Hope this helps!

[@genevieveatkinson4217]

Christina is there any way you could assist me with some fabric

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi Genevieve, send us an email at [e-mail]. We will be happy to assist you.

[@KarinaDoRego]

I got a little confused about the pulling the thread. Why is this done? I'm getting ready to make 4 shift dresses, and I need to know.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Kari DoRego because the shift is made from rectangles and squares it is important that you keep the straight of grain. Pulling threads allows you to stay straight of grain.

[@KarinaDoRego]

Thank you so much! I will be attempting this soon as well as a stay... biting my fingernails...😬

[@rslocum17]

I think I missed something. I don’t know how much linen to purchase 🤦‍♀️

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi Rachel here you go! burnleyandtrowbridge.com/pages/shift-sew-along-supplies-list

[@MelDaltonMusic]

Great video! As a beginner sew-alongs are super helpful. Technical question: Is it better to cut the reinforcing strips on the grain or on the bias? I would expect for something that's going to wrap around that the bias would be better, but you cut it on the grain line.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Mel Dalton on the grain. Bias cutting is really not done in the 18thc

[@MelDaltonMusic]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Makes sense, thank you!

[@KirieHimuro100]

I had difficulty trying to get straight and parallel lines. Would a square ruler help?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

We highly recommend pulling a thread to use as your cutting line so that you stay truly square on grain.

[@applesKIWISbananas]

im having a few problems getting this to fit. im following as close as i can but it doesnt fit in the bust 😭

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi Avalon! Without knowing your measurements it's hard for us to help you troubleshoot. We'd recommend double checking your math and if you are larger or smaller in the bust you can try adjusting the width of your diagram as mentioned at around minute 20:00 in the video by taking your diagram width up or down by two inches to increase or decrease the size. This was how they adjusted for shift sizes in the 18th century.

[@applesKIWISbananas]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thank you! i increased the width and then made the gussets much bigger. it works now!

[@barefacedquestions]

You said that the linen you used was the best you could get ah old of, but it didn't compare to 18th century. What is superior about 18th century linen? Having never sewn garment, I don't know if the size of a shirt being dependent on the width of the fabric is a good thing or not 🙃.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

The quality of the linen could be much finer in the 18th century, but most importantly the linen was woven with a tight "closed" selvage that was practically invisible and was able to be sewn without needing to trim off any selvage edges.

[@marieristow3541]

Hi! So these are really great, you've helped me get through fully hand sewn projects and I so appreciate it! Question on the gores. When I cut out my shift gores, they don't really match, even going by the halfway point of the body. This leaves me with a little odd place where it is straight at the end of the gore and I'm having to kind of ease that in too. My second shift (I did my first in muslin) isn't as bad as the first, but is there a way around this? Am I doing something incorrectly? Should I be cutting the gores longer? Thanks!

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi Marie! We're glad you're enjoying the series. 😁 It's possible that your fabric might be getting a little big off when you're cutting (it's super easy for this to happen because that cut line is so long) so that could be skewing things a bit. In terms of easing it in, that's fine! There are some really interesting examples in originals of gore treatments (one in the Colonial Williamsburg collection has gores that are very much *not* the same size and so it gets a bit wobbly for a minute at the join 😆). I think the more you practice, the more you'll see improvement. I'd say pay special attention to the edges of your shift body when you cut your gores next time to see if the fabric has shifted before/during cutting. Hope this helps and let us know if it works ❤️

[@kthrnS]

My gores came up just a little short for some reason but I dont want to leave them out- is it better to line them up with my hem and fudge them at the points or line them up at the points and shorted my bodies hem to match?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

You might no have cut right at the center point. You do want them to line up so that you have a continuous outer seam. If they come up a tad short you can piece at the bottom or if you can afford to shorten the shift a bit, go ahead.

[@rebeccaleavenworth2242]

Ok, so I have an extremely short attention span and I am struggling to pay enough attention to the whole video to fully understand it. I have a few questions that I'm hoping someone can either answer or tell me the exact moment in the video where they are answered because I have tried to watch this four times now but I just really can't focus on all of it. When you made the diagram for your pattern pieces you only showed one piece for the body of the shift, where do you cut the back from? Why do you fold your fabric twice in the video before cutting it? Are you cutting the body on a fold? Last question for now, I have seen many tutorials for historical shifts and they all seem to show different ways to arrange the pieces on the fabric. How important is the grain line when determining how to cut the pieces?

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Hi Rebecca. Hope these answers will help. 1. The body of the shift is cut all in one with the shoulders on a fold (long ways) When laid flat you will have a front and a back with a neck opening in the center, meaning that the shoulder is on a fold. 2. When laying out it is always good to go with the grain, however if your linen is dimensionally stable, meaning it does not stretch more in the warp or weft, then you can turn pieces for a more economical fabric use.

[@rebeccaleavenworth2242]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thank you so much! I kept losing focus half way through and rewinding over and over trying to pay attention. Thank you for writing out what you did in such a clear way, that helps a lot

[@shmuelarom5773]

Which trousers are shown here (in the Shift sew along) ? looks like something that I could sew for myself too.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Do you mean what Christina is wearing?

[@shmuelarom5773]

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Yes. It looks (to me) like one of Laughing Moon Mercantile sewing patterns (pattern #119), an 1850-1910 Men's trousers.

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

These are actually modern dungarees but the Laughing Moon pattern could be a cool alternative!