Butora Acro Comp Review - An ALMOST perfect climbing shoe

[@DennisDural]

Been an acro fan since the originals came out and narrowed in my brand since then wearing the narsha and now these acro comp shoes. Definitely the soft rubber gives the best friction on the smallest of foot holds and smearing, I trust my feet more with these shoes and allows me to relax more on my fingers, esp on rest periods. Ive only used them so far in the gym and totally agree the rubber will run down more quickly, so I try not to scuff them on the wall when being lowered after a climb. I love them so much I want several pairs to alternate my climbing days. Awesome review!!! I actually like this classic style of the shoe and I don't like too much fancy color.

[@BeorOng]

I am 100% with you on team butora. I have evolvs, la sportivas, black diamonds, (next purchase I wanna get the scarpa furia airs but im telling you now not a fan of xs grip 2 ...but i need em for science reasons 🤫) but so far nothing has matched the enjoyment of climbing in acros. Appreciate the kind words my man and thanks for watching the video. Hopefully get to rep our butoras together on the wall in the future!

[@thesii213]

@@BeorOng What do you think Butora needs next in their lineup? I'd like to see a slightly more advanced "do-it-all" shoe, like an Endeavor with a little more downturn and heel tension. I also think they just discontinued the Sensa, which didn't seem to get a lot of love.

[@BeorOng]

@@thesii213 Sorry dude, completely missed this comment -- hmm a sport climbing shoe would be amazing... since I lead as well, something with a moderate downturn, and just designed for comfort woud be nice, the gomis cover the stiff midsole section so I think they would be a good choice for outdoor bouldering shoes which means for me its less of "what could they include in their lineup" and more of a "how could I make these shoes better" in which case my personal wishes would be -- the heel of the skwamas, the sock of the genius', and probably the full removal of the mid sole like the furia airs... for me something like that would be the perfect shoe

[@thesii213]

@@BeorOng No worries. I could be wrong, but I thought the Gomi's sort of were that shoe? I didn't think they had any sort of plastic midsole based on the initial reviews.

[@benstewpanada]

Having a test day soon near me with Butora, i personally think they are in a great spot to produce great shoes and be a player in the shoe market. However, their websites do not advertise all the tech in this shoe and the pictures look bad and also if you are in aus it takes you to just a store and Kr has more better looking models but besides all of that which surely comes to aus soon. What do you think or the spider/gomi? at my gym alot of strong climbers are using them for the rubber, would you compare them to the acro pro?

[@SyRyanYang]

Awesome review man, short and concise. Just wondering how the size and fit compare to the Shadow, esp. the heel cup? I too love the rubber on the Shadow but the heel is rubbish for me (deforms too easily) and the toe patch peeled off pretty quickly too. The Arco looks like an upgraded version of the Shadow and I actually quite like the old school leather look.

[@BeorOng]

Hey first of all thanks for the kind words and the sub, really appreciate it. To answer your question my acro comps are a size UK size 6, my shadows are UK 7s though I sized my shadows wrong because they were my first pair of aggresive shoes could definitey have sized a whole size maybe 1.5 down. My street shoe size is uk size 7 as a point of reference so id probably say it would probably be close to 1:1 whatever your shadow size is most likely will be your acro size too. And i feel you on the delaminating of the toe patch for the shadows. You wont have that issue with these though and again another reason why i love em

[@MD-gx4bw]

Hey man. I have been seriously considering the acro comp bit can't find them in stock anywhere. I was wondering where you picked yours up (also in Aus) and if the fit is the same as the standard acro? Cheers!

[@BeorOng]

I had mine sent over from korea (i have a friend there). The size is indeed same as standard acro. Sorry couldnt be more help with getting a pair but might be able to order em online

[@MD-gx4bw]

@@BeorOng not at all, that's super helpful, now I know exactly what size I need and that I'll have to buy direct. Super appreciated, thanks man.

[@BeorOng]

@@MD-gx4bw anytime, hope you love em, theyre my personal go tos above the others to be honest

[@dingojohnsonn5056]

Have you tried the Butora Gomi shoes? I am considering picking up a pair. The solutions I have don’t fit my heel quite right and my Otakis are not very grippy.

[@BeorOng]

They fit my feet quite nicely, theyre on the stiffer side though so depends if thats what youre looking for. I wouldnt mind it for outdoors at all

[@VividVision]

Yoo all those camera angles so dope man!

[@BomberBeta]

Very good review! I've been meaning to get a pair of Acros. They seems like a great shoe. Been on a Scarpa Sportiva kick for awhile but I'll get a pair of them soon. Thanks for the great review 👍

[@BeorOng]

thanks dude, yeah Ive actually gotten a pair of furia airs and I want to battle it out with the dragos for a future review, skwamas I think are next in line though

[@frigginjorf]

How do you compare the original Acro (orange) heel to the Acro Comp heel? Butora says they revamped the heel and randing system; how so? I thought the original Acro's heel randing was way too aggressive, and it would always give me some dead space right behind my heel even when sized really tight. Did they fix this at all in the Acro Comp?

[@BeorOng]

Sorry I missed this comment, Honestly for me Id say the heel is negligible, it honestly doesnt feel too different for me. You could definitely try on a pair but if you had heel space Id probably say opt for a different shoe (Skawamas for me have had the best fitting heel in my opinion. Like a vacuum)

[@ottom333]

Hey nice review, I use the Gomi any thoughts on the comparison? cheers

[@BeorOng]

hey thanks man, my brother uses a pair of the gomis. Unfortunately I havent had the pleasure of trying em out yet but tempted to buy a pair and join the gomi gang. Im working to get an edit of a beta video out as a test for this channel, but honestly Im going to be moving towards gear review entirely for the future so I want to be reviewing a bunch more shoes in the future. La sportiva skwamas, geniuses, black diamond shadows, evolv agros, all on to the to do list and I'll get a pair of scarpa furia airs soon to put them through the ringer as well. If you have any requests do let us know and I'll see what I can do.

[@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog]

Have you tried out the Mastia from tenaya? I’m torn between it and the acro comp?

[@BeorOng]

unfortunately not yet, they look like a great shoe and tenaya are a fantastic brand you can trust. That being said I do think that butora just give you the best bang for buck. I should add tenaya to my line up its like one of the only brands I still dont have haha

[@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog]

@@BeorOng that’d be incredible if you did add the mastia and review it. Chris Sharma and Jimmy Webb have been rockin them for a while now so they have to be awesome shoes. Thanks for the reply man ✌🏽😃✌🏽

[@BeorOng]

@@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog haha all good i have a few in the pipeline but ill check em out

[@ridhwanwan155]

Hi ! do you know what kind of leather butora uses ? Like cow leather, pig skin leather etc ?

[@BeorOng]

Sorry, i couldnt tell you, but i would assume cow leather

[@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog]

I wonder how these shoes would fare on tiny foothold slab routes?

[@BeorOng]

Its one of those, if you think you can generate toe power easily enough theyre fine, because of their softness id say a beginner might struggle a little more though and the extra stifness of something like the gomis or evolvs agros might be a better choice. I personally havent found it an issue at all

[@vincentli5128]

How is the softness compared to the scarpa furia air, if you happen to have tried those?

[@BeorOng]

ooo interesting those are actually next on my to buy list. In terms of rubber composition softness Id say these are softer as in theyre stickier because theyre soft. In terms of softness as in midsole and stuff.... 100% ive played with the furia air and theyre going to be like 20x softer and more flexibile. So when it comes down to shoe flexibility the furia airs win hands down. Theyll be good for the parkoury type movements, but in terms of wanting stickiness Id still prefer the acros due to the rubber composition. Like I said in this video not a fan of xs grip 2 rubber. Stay tuned though, I'll do more reviews on shoes and stuff in the future and if you want I can prioritize a pair of furia airs.. though Id want to break them in for a month-ish to really give it a proper run through

[@stopwatch_timers]

Have you tried the new 5.10 hiangles?

[@BeorOng]

I swear im not getting my notifications... i need to check on this sorry for getting back to you so late but no i havent, my brother just bought a pair though so I'll be sure to make a review with him on them in the future =] honestly in terms of aesthetics they look sick

[@thesii213]

Have your opinions on these changed over time? Also... this is one of the best reviews out there on the Acro's. I've heard Butora are releasing a "katana-like" down-turned all-rounder this year (okay I suggested it to them and they said it's already in development), and you might reach out to see if they'll send you a promo pair for review? You do a really excellent job with these, although - and this is unsolicited criticism from the internet so feel free to ignore me - you could maybe slow down your speech just a little bit. Anyway, great work! I'm looking forward to more.

[@BeorOng]

My opinion has indeed changed with more shoes tried. I think they are still the best value for money, and think they are a great shoe but overall i think the inside could just be that little bit comfier, as in the lining and stitching is a littly eiffy on the inside, not enough that i hate em, but enough that it makes me opt for my new shoes instead, even though these still have life in em. The katana thing is interesting im actually going to br emailing most brands about these plans to see what we can work out together, thanks for the update. And regarding the slower talking, i do get that alot, but ive learned to accept its just how i talk..but ill try haha

[@thesii213]

@@BeorOng Ah thanks for the insights! And yep, I think it'd be wise for any climbing company to get you on board. Just make sure you can stay objective in the reviews. And again, great work. Stay safe and stay healthy!

[@BeorOng]

@@thesii213 for sure, i always make it clear i want my opinion to be there whether it be good or bad, i dont want them infuencing my voice, otherwise ill just buy it and rip on it myself haha

[@thesii213]

@@BeorOng Ah sorry, I'm back to looking at the Comps. Do you know if these have any kind of midsole? Even a rubber one? Also how do they do for moderate edging?

[@BeorOng]

@@thesii213 pretty sure they have a midsole, a few mm thick still pretty soft though but it provides my preferred level of stiffness and support. For edging I think they do quite great, they havent really had a major issue for me

[@ClayterBob]

I currently climb in the Skwamas but my gym is having a butora demo tonight so I’ll be trying out both the gomi and the Acro comps!

[@BeorOng]

love my skwamas, I swear if they just used a rubber like these neofuse there would be no question, that would be my perfect shoe. That being said guarantee that you wont be dissapointed with the butoras. Honestly been my fave shoe to climb with. Thanks for watching the video!

[@ClayterBob]

@@BeorOngYeah, I ordered a pair of the acro comps last night, loved the feel, heel felt much better than I thought!

[@BeorOng]

@@ClayterBob this is a bit late in terms of a response but welcome to the butora gang. Acro's are definitely the best bang for buck shoe in my opinion and honestly I just love climbing in them... When I intend on crushing a project its off with any other shoe and on with the acros

[@Allpall]

@@ClayterBob how did you like the gomis? I'm trying to decide between those and the acro comps. Currently climbing in the narrow fit acros and really like them except for the painful heel - their only drawback imo. I demoed the comps a while back and the heel fit a lot better... don't think i'll be able to try out the gomis though so I'm desperately searching for people's opinions.

[@Allpall]

@@ClayterBob how did you like the gomis? I'm trying to decide between those and the acro comps. Currently climbing in the narrow fit acros and really like them except for the painful heel - their only drawback imo. I demoed the comps a while back and the heel fit a lot better... don't think i'll be able to try out the gomis though so I'm desperately searching for people's opinions.

[@thesii213]

Can you comment on the differences in fit between these and the original Acro? Specifically in the new heel?

[@BeorOng]

Honestly i found the original acro pretty good already so any changes into the heel are fairly minor in my opinion anyway. It feels like it has a bit more inwards pull all around the side of the foot though which gives it that better fit but if i was perfectly honest regarding the heel it would be like 5-10% better than the original..not a massive difference but enough if you liked the acros and wanted a new pair instead of a resole its worth the upgrade.

[@thesii213]

@@BeorOng Interesting. How would you characterize your foot shape? And more importantly, heel shape? Also good work on those dynos mate.

[@BeorOng]

@@thesii213 thank you! Regarding my footshape, I didnt think I had a wide toe box but based on the types of shoes I've been buying (skwamas and the butora acro wide) I guess wide toe box, fairly normal to high foot arch (so definitely not flat), heel Id say is pretty standard, not massive but not tiny either. Overall high volume

[@thesii213]

@@BeorOng Ooof didn't say thank you two years ago! So now... thank you! Looking at these again.

[@BeorOng]

@@thesii213 haha all good, bettet late than never right? Haha...though id say maybe wait for my theory review before you make a purchase

[@realvik2732]

Using the sportiva finales currently

[@BeorOng]

How are you finding them? Bouldering primarily?

[@UnwantedCommentary]

Dawg where are your affiliate links

[@BeorOng]

when they sponsor me

[@aev325]

How's the break in period?

[@BeorOng]

honestly these were actually pretty comfy out of the box -- again cause im breaking in the evolv agros which are sized pretty tight, I find the acro comps a lot more bearable since I start with the agros during warm up then swap out to the acro comps. The only section that feels tight is around the sides of the toe box so once it softens out just that little bit more itll be perfect

[@aev325]

@@BeorOng Thanks man! Awesome review too!

[@BeorOng]

@@aev325 thanks man too kind =] Ill review the others in the future too sometime

[@無阻之流]

acro Down size 1.5 OK？

[@thesii213]

Probably not? They recommend only a half size down for a try hard shoe.

[@UnwantedCommentary]

not enough lens flare for the music xD

[@BeorOng]

the flare is in my dynos =P

[@provuksmc6619]

My first shoes were the tarantulas. Solid and comfy for beginners. Then i tried the veloce, but they hurt like hell. My third shoe is the otaki. Since im heavy and have never climbed in so precise shoes, i am deeply in love with the heel and the feeling. But they huuuuuuurt so bad. My current shoe is the mastia from tenaya. OMG i love them so much. Comfy and sweet. No pain, only after 1h bouldering. But i think i should risk the pain of a half a grade smaller, bc the heel starts to bag a bit. Otherwise 10/10 would recommend trying.

[@BeorOng]

Id get the otakis but they would end up just being similiar to my skwamas

[@provuksmc6619]

@@BeorOng the otakis are much more stiff. They have less grip. If you want to edge the otakis are precise, stiff shoes made for tiny holds.

[@BeorOng]

@@provuksmc6619 atm im breaking in my boostics pretty much for that purpose lol, theyre painful as heck though

[@provuksmc6619]

@@BeorOng i dont doubt that 🙃

[@thesii213]

@@provuksmc6619 Agreed yeah. The Otaki fits very very similarly to the Skwama (same last, I think) but with the hard XS Edge rubber and the stiffness for tiny footholds. Great for sport climbing. Skwama + Otaki would be a great two shoe quiver.

[@andrewhua4972]

Currently using Butora Advance, but they're a bit too narrow for me so I have an oversized shoe and have poor edge hold. I'm wanting to get one of hte wide fit Butoras, any chance you have used the Mantra or Altura?

[@BeorOng]

Unfortunately no, but as a lace system the advantage technically is that you can adjust the fit to your liking. The altura "looks" like it might be better for a wide foot though. Is this primarily for bouldering or are you planning on using them for sport/trad as well?

[@andrewhua4972]

@@BeorOng Bouldering only! I'm a pretty low level (V2) and just tore my TFCC so I don't see myself advancing much any time soon, but it's a bit frustrating not being able to even attempt slabs because I don't have confidence in the foot holds.

[@BeorOng]

@@andrewhua4972 fair fair, because I think if youre planning on upgrading its worth choosing something on the aggressive end of the spectrum. If youre noticing the poor edging performance on sizes that are too big it might be worth actually getting a decent pair that will hold out for a longer sesh that you can get the most out of. Something like the skwamas I think are great for wide feet or even the butora acros i found were a really good and budget friendly

[@andrewhua4972]

@@BeorOng thanks, I have the same thoughts on long term investments even if the gear goes beyond my current skill! i found some good deals on the Acro that I might give a try on. I've been reading about the Mantra and Altura as well, and it seems like they have much thicker rubber at the toe for cracks/jamming. Am I correct in assuming that the thicker rubber actually would hinder performance in a gym climbing setting since you don't have as much feel?

[@BeorOng]

@@andrewhua4972 There are definitely pros and cons to thicker rubber at the toe, sensitivity is one, but honestly you wont see cracks and jams unless you trad a lot, even outdoor bouldering yes there are some, and not exactly rare... but still its not so common i would need it for consideration. Of course personal preference here, i prefer sensitivity, a light midsole for support, and a softer rubber for stickiness, where as a lot of people will want a slightly stiffer rubber like xsgrip2 (though still considered soft). In a gym setting i dont really see the need for the thicker rubber for the toe and for outdoors I think it would just be more of a hindrance (though it would last longer)