How To Build The Strongest Wheels - In Depth Guide

This has been a popular request since the start of my channel, so here it is...how to build super strong wheels!
I've tried to include a lot of detail so it is a long video, a lot of you will already be able to build wheels already and may have different techniques but this is how I like to do it.
I didn't include things like hammering the shoulders or using a spanner to twist the spokes more as the stamping of the spokes does pretty much the same job.
BIG thanks to Light Bicycle for the rims, Industry Nine for the Hubs and Tartybikes for the spokes!!
www.lightbicyc...
industrynine.com/
www.tartybikes...
Sheldon Brown has the most in depth guide I've seen (though a little dated), if you need more details check out this link:
www.sheldonbrow...
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[@MTBMcPhee]

I built my first wheels using this tutorial, and have just built my 4th set again following these steps. You really make it idiot proof, and the wheels I have built so far have stood up the abuse. Many thanks.

[@primal5435]

However, it's still wrong 50% of the time..He's forgetting one very important step: He is not adjusting his wheel build acording to if it's a right, or left drilled rim. Rims have the holes slightly drilled left or right, changing every hole. He's putting his first spoke into the first hole to the left. If this was a "Left drilled rim" he'd need to put his first spoke into the second hole to the left instead. Hope it makes sense. (It's quite important because it will make the nipple sit straight against the rim, and not at an angle.)

[@alimantado373]

@@primal5435 ? I have had Onza drilled rims I don't think it makes any difference at all.

[@primal5435]

@@alimantado373 I don't know that specific rim, but rarely some rims are drilled with the hole straight in the middle, with no angle. In that case it doesn't matter. if it's a right or left drilled rim, it does matter.

[@primal5435]

You learn this, in the almost 4 year long bike education in Denmark. You would probably fail the exams if you didn't account for left or right drilled rims, when building the wheel.

[@michag.5283]

@@primal5435 You are making good point, but this guy have done amazing tutorial for noobies, and I'm greatful for this good job. Don't be so "I know everything", make better tutorial and be happy man ;).

[@NRO416]

You say building wheels isn’t as complex as people make it seem and you’re right. I think it’s just difficult to articulate the process without over complicating it. You nailed it here. I came across this video after lacing a set last night. I was so satisfied with your explanation that I had to try your method so I unlaced one and followed your procedure. Please don’t ever take this video down. I intend to watch it as a refresher every time I lace a new wheel set. Absolutely brilliant.

[@dansacco1964]

Using a spoke tension gauge I lost 20% of measured tension after stepping on the wheel. That step is essential. Excellent tutorial!

[@alphaforce6998]

I recently built a pair of wheels for a bike I'm working on and just wanted to thank you for your guide. It is definitely one of the better guides for someone who has never done this before. Since this was my first set of 32 spoke wheels using Inferno 27 rims, sapim race spokes and sapim secure-lock nipples with novatec d041/d042 hubs. I will share some tips that worked for me: - I applied grease (I use lucas oil xtra - the green stuff - works very good for everything that needs grease) on the threads of the spokes only. I did this by holding all spokes for one side of the wheel in a clump, then lightly fanning it so I could dip them in a small tube of grease. I wiped the excess on the side of the tube and a paper towel. No mess at all doing it this way, and the grease will remain good for years. The secure lock nipples don't loosen from normal riding so no need for anything like linseed oil or even worse - thread locker. - If you do not want to stand on the side of your wheel to stress the spokes, you can simply use your hand to squeeze two pairs of spokes, one on each side of the wheel. A towel or gloves make it less painful, but the result is properly stressed spokes. - One thing this guide didn't get into was the necessity of dishing the wheel before truing. Dishing means moving the rim to one side or the other in relation to the center of the hub, and both disk-brake hubs and all rear hubs must be dished. The way I did it was by tightening all nipples until threads were hidden, then doing half a turn tighter on the drive side and half a turn looser on the non-drive side. For the front wheel, which is disk brake, I tightened the side with the brake mount and loosened the non-braking side. I did this until the dish was correct, which I basically eyeballed by mounting the wheels to my bike. No need for a stand IMO. - Here is where I have a "big tip" that should make the overall process easier. Before dishing or truing your spokes, look up their max tension rating. Mine are rated at 130 kgf. Then, decide how much you want to tension them and use a tension gauge to set the tension as evenly as possible across all spokes. In my case, I went with 95-100 kgf for the rear drive side, 85 kgf rear non-drive side. Fronts were around 85-90 kgf brake side, 75 or so for non-brake side. In other words, your max tension will only be on the drive side in the case of the rear, or the braking side in the case of the front. If you have non-disc rims then the front can be even on both sides and the rear only biased to the drive side. By using the tension gauge and adjusting the spokes by a 1/4 turn - 1/2 turn each until I hit my target range of tension, truing was very easy. - The way I trued my wheels was by mounting them onto the frame and I used a spare zip tie to detect "wobbles". Even spoke tension is more important than having ultra-perfect roundness in my opinion, but I was able to true my wheels in this manner getting them to the point where there is no perceptible wobble...and the starting point was only about 3 mm +/-. Obviously, different wheel/spoke/hub combinations will affect results. So if you skip reading all that, the main takeaway is use a spoke tension meter to set your target tensions first, stress the spokes by squeezing them or however you want, then recheck tension and proceed to truing. I also verified my after-truing tension and was pleasantly surprised to see that tension was very close across both sides of both wheels.

[@doubleg1328]

Alpha, that is the most well thought and written guide to a logical approach on strong wheel building. 👌I will save this for myself and future reference. I have used the hand squeeze technique with good results 😊 great tip on spoke tension goals to shoot for,👍 and the concept of wheel dish based on spoke threads hidden flush with the nipples is genius. 🤓 Only thing I can add is to tension spokes 1/8 of a turn or more past the desired amount and back the spoke wench off that 1/8 turn to your final setting. This really seems to help prevent spoke wrap and the wheel stays true better when you first ride it. On older builds that I retrue, first I turn the affected spoke nipple until I hear a "POP" 💥 that signals the nipples are "broke free" from the lindseed oils grip and turning independent of the spoke. Then i begin to true the wheel. Like mentioned above, this helps prevents spoke wrap and keeps the retrued wheel in check much better the first time you ride on the wheelset. Happy trails my friend! 🙌

[@FINMM3]

He did dish it though.

[@robertcollins4685]

This is downright the best wheel building tutorial there is. I bought myself a wheel building stand after watching this.(because you made it look so easy) I've built 3 sets of wheel so far. All were easy and worked out great, thank you Ali! I actually though you were a pro level bike mechanic! (because you mentioned Danny) and you made it look so simple and easy. You definitely have a knack at teaching. On my second wheel build, I watched another KZbin video , but used your method of building and was done with 40 mins of their video left! And you have also introduced me to Trials riding, Something I never thought I knew about. As a teenager I was pretty good at BMX freestyle and tricks( bunny hops an such) I hope to learn to manual and get my bunnyhops higher by the end of summer now. Thanks again for the great videos!

[@rickieroo]

Perfect. I have none of those tools. Great start.

[@dokvist]

You probably have a sho right ;-)

[@LauriAP]

I have gloves, a nipple key and a rim-stand. Stearic acid as lubricant. I also grind bearings and change bearing balls.

[@colinredman302]

Lauri Pullinen linseed oil works a beauty as well

[@hyperion3704]

@@colinredman302 Yeah but doesn't it get grimy and viscous as it ages? I've used it for oil painting and my linseed oil always does that.

[@colinredman302]

@@hyperion3704 This makes it into almost a threadlocker for the spokes/nipples

[@jeffreyardziejewski2547]

This is the best video I’ve come across. I’ve used it multiple times. Thanks

[@cornbreed767]

Moi

[@cornbreed767]

Injn nn kool i t

[@berndkraemer2832]

Built my first wheel today following Ali's instructions (three cross). Super easy to understand this tutorial - time will tell if I did a good job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Ali! Much appreciated!

[@TrailBreaker]

Ali, that was the best single explanation of this magical process. I’ve always been comfortable truing wheels (since I’m really good at un-truing them😁) but I’d like to try building a set for myself. Much respect 👊🏻

[@HerrSheeps]

I have a collection of mangled rims I now want to practice with. Oh, the fun times ahead!

[@bobbyhelco5711]

I've built a few wheels in my day. This was a great video. Although when you stood on the spokes to stress them, I almost lost my lunch. It makes so much sense after watching you do it. But I never would have guessed you could safely do that to a wheel. Thanks for teaching me something new. Sometimes explaining how to do something is so much harder than doing it. You did a great job.

[@Hertog_von_Berkshire]

16:22 - "I really hope I'm not over-complicating this too much" ..... classic!

[@KimHDRoberts]

Absolutely brilliant - finally someone shows a proper wheel build from soup to nuts! Thank you for taking the time and effort to make and upload this video, just great stuff.

[@suminshizzles6951]

Proper? With alu nipples? Yeah, ok.

[@jaytam1]

See so many wheel building experts out there dishing out comments and thinks they should be listened to just because they have been in the industry for a long time. 15-20 years doesn't mean jack if you are not constantly exploring, innovating, changing and opening yourself up to new ideas of doing things. You could be at your job for 20 years and yes you certainly have the tenure and experience but it doesn't mean you are any good at it. Mechanics is certainly another example, so many senior mechanics out in the streets each of them having their own shop but one has a better reputation with better business and happier customers than the other. You get my point.

[@trek520rider2]

Re some of these veterans: as my welding instructor said "first you do it wrong then you perfect it".

[@sebastiannai4381]

This is as good as it gets. One only has to watch Ali’s riding to see how much the wheels are put through. Thanks for sharing Ali. I’ll be using that stressing technique on all future wheel builds for sure.

[@gardenstateflatlandb]

Stressing the spokes is 100% one of the most important things you can do. It can be done before truing when all the spokes are just snugged down fairly tight. Reason I do it before any truing is cuz then I only have to true once instead of twice. Been building bmx wheels since 1986 and never had an issue with any of my wheels doing it this way. What lube did you use btw? Appears a liquid lube, yes? Normally I lay a small dab of grease or anti-seize on a paper towel, spin the spoke thread side flat thru it, then on another paper towel lay it thread side flat and spin so only grease is within the deep parts of the threads. This eliminates any gobs of grease getting anywhere other than it needs to be. I'll do up all spokes before starting the build. Kool to see different wheel build styles. As long as you end up with a true and lasting wheel is what matters.

[@oreocarlton3343]

Lube he used looks like a Joes chain lube

[@swnorcraft7971]

In my former life, I was a motorcycle mechanic. In those years, I laced and trued many wheels. The lacing and truing are similar but there are definite differences. Ali, you made this about as clear as anyone could. Thank you. I will now attempt to lace some wider rims on my existing hubs. Thanks for sharing. You have a new subscriber...........

[@YellowKneedMoose]

The shoe was a surprising addition. I will give it a go on some enduro wheels. So far the most extreme thing I\ve used is tapping the shoulders with a rubber&plastic mallet. Great guide, awesomely detailed.

[@peglor]

Best video on building a wheel I've seen. Uses exactly the method I've been using for years (Apart from the stress reliving, I use leather gloves and squeeze pairs of parallel spokes together HARD instead). Interestingly the lacing used here is wrong according to a lot of wheel building guides, (They recommend lacing that looks the same on both flanges rather than mirrored lacing as demonstrated), but there's no structural reason to do it hat way, as well as it being harder to lace the spokes. In fact with disk brake loading it makes a lot of sense that the spokes should be mirrored as the rim moves sideways less under heavy braking loads if the spokes taking the extra tension are both to the outside or inside of the hub flanges rather than one outside and one inside. The requirements for absolute trueness are less these days thanks to disk brakes too, so one handy trick I use is to leave the spokes so the flats of the nipples align with the plane of the wheel (This gives a 1/4 turn resolution for adjustments which I reckon is good enough). Doing this means you can visually inspect your wheel for loose spokes by checking the nipple alignment...

[@gubourn]

Thank you so much for this guide. Such a fail safe method being explained in a simple way. I used this guide to build two mtb wheels for the first time at work today. Super satisfying.

[@cyberhawk80]

dude this was so cool... i think almost a decade ago.. you guys (tartybikes) rebuild my wheel after the old rim started failing.. i dont know if it was you or adam.. who build my wheel.. i didnt ride that much trials the last 2 years.. but the wheel is still perfect.. still rocking the pro 2 hope hub.. laser etched with the tartybikes logo on it :D you also got me all my red parts for my moto V2 brakes.. ..and the Tartybikes banner is still hanging in my hallway .. :)

[@TheSimple46]

Thank you Ali! You've given me the confidence to tackle my first wheel build! 😬😬😬

[@stevebennett3587]

👌great tuition, I bought a new rear wheel, it was perfectly true, and spoke tension seemed ok, but soon as i put the tyre on, I lost a fair bit of tension on the spokes, I think a lot of wheel builders don't stress the spokes, to seat them properly, hopefully my new wheel will be tensioned properly👍

[@rogeriocosta1035]

I did mine with flip-flops and it works great too. Thank you for the shoe tip, that makes a real difference. Best regards!

[@SayItAintS0]

Thnx mate, I love how you stress the importance of good quality materials and tools. I don't know how many times (as a total hobbyist just trying to fix my gear myself) I've had to spend extra money on another shit tool before realizing that cost/quality does matter. Of course I was still on the cheap side in the beginning, thinking that it was just me and my 'not knowing how to handling things that broke the stuff. It might as well have been to but anyway... I'm also so stoked about the fact that the wheel you just 'put it in a bowl and stirred a little' is probably world class competition class ready right ;). True artists often really do try to share their knowledge. Humble thanks Ali!

[@SilkJester]

I build my wheels the exact same way. Splitting the lacing in quarters makes the building so much easier. Thanks for the video, Ali!

[@robertcochran7103]

Thank you for this video! Yesterday the rear wheel on my 2019 Kona Libre cracked, and I want to research how complicated it might be for me to buy a new wheel/rim, new spokes, new hub, and then do most of the wheel build but let my local bike shop finish up the truing, installation of the cassette and a new tire. Your video seems to show it is simple enough to give a try. My local bike shop is extremely busy right now because I'm posting this comment during the time of the 2020 coronavirus pandemic. If I try to order the parts needed and do most of the labor, I believe I can help myself by helping them.

[@swarm69]

"you have to lube the nipples!" - ali Clarkson 2018

[@donchristie420]

Nipple count, anyone??

[@Mythix2]

I have 2

[@laurencefielding9849]

"watch out for that splash back" & "best not to do it in your living room"

[@aliyasinErdogan]

good one

[@TommyShlong]

I say only lube the nipples if that's what she likes.

[@midschoolchris5660]

This is the best lacing video on the internet sir I watch it every time I do wheels because I do this only like once a year. Will share every time for others wanting to learn.

[@fattaffracingco]

Best wheelbuilding vid I've seen , great detail , awesome

[@suminshizzles6951]

You must not have seen much then cos he used alu nipples instead of brass ones which most self respecting wheel builders will.

[@RC-ic1co]

@@suminshizzles6951 Can you give a suggestion for your top pick video on wheelbuilding then, instead? Would be greatly appreciated. :-)

[@armyjeffries87]

Finding this 2+ yrs after you posted, nice! Thanks for the tutorial. Very well Done!

[@BikeTeacher]

Great video, I use this when I teach in class. Great job!

[@colinfletcher8356]

Never built a wheel before, followed this video for 2 x 451 28 hole aero wheel build and no problems at all after a good few miles - thank you Ali.

[@therapscallion23]

Thank you for sharing your method of building. The stomp technique was like pulling the strings of guitar in restringing.

[@hemiboyrcbmxerwilliams7599]

I have been building wheels for over 20 years and in my efforts to watch every one of your videos Ali watched this and loved this tutorial. Great work!

[@evanbarnes9984]

Thanks dude! The timing for this video was perfect since I'm preparing to build my first wheel today or tomorrow

[@XxPureKhaosxX]

Even without me attempting to build a wheel this is probably the most understandable wheel build tutorial I've seen. Great job!

[@SaintVes]

Gonna build my weels by my own after this video! What instruments do I have? Well, I have a shoe... Good for start...

[@kacper2kt]

About one year ago watched that video… like another one video/Article… AND I HAVE TO SAY THANK YOU MAN!!! Before that my wheels sometimes had to be fixed some nipples. After your method I have never came back with wheel to truing stand and they have done solid km on XC mounatins and some People were really heavy :D One of the BEST tips and videos. THANKS again for making my wheels solid after first and last lacing and truing.

[@josepheustaquio5544]

Super appreciate the time and effort you put into the video. Thanks! Love the Light Bicycle rims as well (on my 3rd set).

[@neilbain8736]

This is fascinating. I knew old guys who called it tuning and would ping the spokes for the sound. Lacing and truing: I'd separate them into two processes. I think it was easier to get a feel for it from attempting slightly out of true wheels at first, then progressing in severity towards pretzelled or Pringled. Lacing a whole wheel was another thing. The standard very much now is that you start of the spoke hole to the left of the valve, but it isn't and wasn't always the case. Spoke holes can be staggered or angled towards their respective sides. One hole is always facing the side you're on, the next one facing away. The standard now is the spoke hole to the left of the valve as it is here being for the side you're doing. So ignore the following unless you come across stuff from until the 1990's or a bit later. If you put the valve hole one hole along then everything is in the wrong place and that was very much the case with some manufacturers. They had their reason. The reason was to do with crossing spokes and the pulling spoke. The pulling spoke is the spoke getting pulled by the hub as you cycle along. It will flex against the trailing spoke. The argument was based on where was the best direction to dissipate the forces. It could either pull the trailing spoke towards the centre if crossed one way while the other way was for it to push it out from the centre. Both sides' pulling spokes should dissipate forces towards the same point: either bot towards the centre or both away from the centre. Being mirror image and thus opposing they will dissipate their forces by cancelling out no matter which method. The argument was which was the best way to do it. By having the valve hole one hole along, you were forced to lace and cross the pulling spoke in the other fashion, caused by twisting the hub during lacing in the direction to give you a clear valve hole for the pump. The addition of disc brakes adds a whole new dimension as the braking force is applied via the hub like the driving force but in the opposite direction. Rim brakes grab the rim while the bike ought to have no driving force at the hub, so thus the wheel behaves differently. The scariest video I saw was many years ago about Townsend in the mid 90's. One clip has a lady with a hub, rim and spokes, al horizontally on a jig. In that clip she laced 4 spokes- I'm sure it was 3 and one crossing spoke- but that was 25 years ago- and the whole clip was less than 1 SECOND long. BTW Tarty bikes are great. They've been really helpful to trials friends and are deffo good for spokes and wheel building .

[@Chris-sx2ow]

I changed mtb rim 4 weeks ago.. this will be easy i thought, 4 hours later i was done =)

[@Klektic]

Yo I spent the afternoon watching 3 mins of this video, spending however many minutes doing as instructed and repeating. Thanks for such a high quality, informative, clear, and detailed video. First wheel build in the books :)

[@browntrout3994]

every time he says "nipples" we drink!

[@magrpe]

Don't forget to lube them!

[@87isbmw]

Just laced my front rim as you skillfully showed, laced my rear up the same way (used hub) just to find out one flange had the spokes going as they originally were, the other flange had the spokes exiting the opposite direction they used to. Spent 4 hours scratching my head trying to figure it out. Apparently there are 4 different ways to lace the same components 4x. With both king spokes over over over under, with both king spokes under under under over, one with drive side king spoke over over over under non drive side under under under over, and finally drive side under under under over with non drive side over over over under. God help me this was a test of patience and when I wake up in the morning I'm going to relace my front to match my rear, even though both are laced 4x already, gonna have all of my king spokes front and rear be over over over under. Nerve racking, given this is my first attempt at lacing rims, and they're posh af. Phil 36h touring front, Sachs S7 36h rear, DT Swiss Alpine III triple butted spokes (304mm all around) and Velo Orange PBP rims in 27" flavor.

[@krukabman]

I'm thinking about replacing the hub on one of my unicycles! This will help!!!!

[@sztigirigi]

I built 3 wheels based on your tutorial already. Tomorrow 4th one. Every time I watch it again to make sure I'm not missing something. I'm not a pro so after some time I forget some steps :). Really really helpful. Thanks.

[@rominhoferrari]

That shoe thing for stressing looks really drastic! Hehe, anyway, nice job, man.

[@samcurtis8206]

Built my first wheels using this. Thanks Ali for keeping it simple

[@ericm8811]

Hey Ali Clarkson! I built my first wheel in 1986! Thanks for the tips! Ride ride ride!

[@Teabagz4fun]

This is the easiest explanation for rims I’ve ever seen. If I should ever need to build one, I’m definitely referencing this video!

[@alvindiazmarquez]

I'm about to do my first build and this is by far the best "how to" I've seen. Really straight forward! Thanks! Question, do you oil/grease pro lock nipples? I know you shouldn't as per Dt swiss but still want your opinion

[@DAZ1925]

I insert a valve cut from an old inner tube to make the valve position more obvious and acts as a great visual aid for tensioning the wheel. Great video by the way.

[@TyBraek]

I've been waiting for this video for a while. I just got my cheap Chinese truing stand and have been looking for some good tips from a pro!!!

[@alexnicolaou3579]

make sure the stand is true... i've heard stories of people using a cheap truing stand that resulted in the wheels sit diagonally when installed in a good frame (the truing stand flanges were a fraction of a degree twisted, and it showed when the wheels were installed on the bikes.

[@TyBraek]

Alex Nicolaou Anything is better than using zipties on my frame. It worked but it was a pain in the ass.(Also I don't have really expensive bikes) As long as I use the same reference point it should be good. A static point along a rotating object will be the same. If the 2 measuring points are different I'll just true one side and flip the wheel over to use the same reference point (I ride single speed and my hubs are centered in the wheels so I don't have to worry about dishing)

[@jwmartnet]

Just think about how wheels work and how a truing stand works.

[@gimpy6710]

Park Tool or go home.

[@laramiegrinde9246]

That was the best explanation of dish that I've ever heard. What a great video!

[@PeterOConnl]

I want to build a wheel now

[@FortyTwo6x7]

I have a peace of shit BMX I use to practice technique, I think one of its wheels are getting taken apart and rebuilt lol

[@Bleaky1]

You fucking dont m8

[@robnavarro4242]

edward doughty he really doesnt dude

[@tuckera1879]

You can gladly build mine I wouldn't mind

[@blizzbee]

Do it once and you got wheel-building skill with you forever. 👍

[@profesonalantagonist]

To relieve that final twist tension that causes a wheel to ping when you first ride it, I will place one one side , similar to your setting, stomping, technique . Then I will push on opposite sides of the wheel which will slightly relieve tension on the bottom side of the wheel, it may ping as twist tension gets relieved, then I rotate the rim and press until I’ve gone around the entire rim. Then I flip and do the other side. Check on the truing stand for true, adjust if necessary. Then repeat the de stressing, and check on the stand. I usually only repeat this one time till done. This is what I’ve done to help make trued rims stay true, they become rock solid.

[@butters6295]

I was curious about how wheels were build... I had a heart attack when you stood on it. Man, they are strong.

[@noth606]

Not the first tutorial I've watched on this subject but the first after which I actually think I understand how to do it, thanks very much Ali :-). Now I think I actually have a path to having the kind of wheels I want but can't buy ready made anywhere, and hopefully even cheaper since I should be able to source some second hand hubs for them, this is awesome.

[@benferguson5929]

am I a child for laughing out loud when he said "Lube the nipples"?

[@robburnett2672]

Worked at a shop for a decade and your wheel building system is pretty much what I do and I just kind of made it up as I went along..only difference is instead of stepping on it I squeeze opposite spokes together with my hand....good stuff I thought the tighten til the end of the threads was cheating...lol

[@demon646]

This is amazing! Thank you! I had no idea that standing on the spokes was a thing :O

[@Samsonmetaphysical]

I bought a new set of hubs at the beginning of the year and I put the front hub on just today, after watching this video of course. BIG THANKS, Ali Clarkson.

[@projekt95]

I always love the shirts you are wearing in your videos :D Only thing that's missing is the Aladdin or Harem Pants :P

[@nathanchohany8169]

Me too love the cat shirts

[@Jurica-mtb]

I made a pair of 26" wheels. I used 32h DT Swiss 533D rims and 2mm spokes, 14mm aluminium nipples and SLX M7000 hubs. I'm quite happy how it worked out and feel confident. Wheels can definetly take some abuse. Without Park Tool tensionmeter it would be impossible to be sure the spokes are tensioned optimally. I strongly suggest the use of tensionmeter. Only downside is that it took some time to make them perfect, so be patient and pay attention.

[@consolefailure2665]

thank you so much for this video

[@letzrockitrite8469]

Complicated yes ... but that's why there's a progress bar to go back and forth.... great information from an amazing athlete !.. thank you !

[@chrisoakes3698]

Cool video Ali! 👍

[@MG-qg9rn]

Thanks for the instructions. Made my wheel built so much easier! :-) First tried putting all the spokes on one side and that gave me a hell of a time to do the other side. End up taking everything apart. This technique was smooth as butter!

[@georgelza]

Can you discuss the pro's cons of 2 across, 3 across 4 across. Long ago I was told to always use brass nipples, as they don't bind... comment That oil you use on the nipples, which is it. Spoke tension, is there logic/math behind it based on rider weight or something?

[@joshsachs6140]

The spoke crossings help to keep the spokes close to tangent to the hub flange. The rule is maximum cross=#of spokes divided by 9. Brass nipples are harder than aluminum, so they are less likely to be mushed up by the spoke threads. Brass is also self-lubricating and more corrosion resistant.

[@dudeonbike800]

Spoke threads can be treated with any number of things: Wheelsmith Spoke Prep (like Blue loctite) Grease Oil Anti seize Boiled linseed oil The latter is the choice of many because it's inexpensive, lubricates well, and then solidifies and acts as a thread locker. But careful with it! Rags soaked with linseed will catch fire. Dispose of anything soaked with it, or store in a fireproof can. No magic to spoke tension. High and even. Two rules to live by! But how high is usually 120kgf (less on rear NDS). 120kgf is the max for many components, including Chris King hubs. Butted spokes are ideal.

[@yzhang7647]

thanks for the clearest explanation. I've laced a lot, more than twenty maybe, but I've never thought I've built a wheel strong enough. It is really a hand craft job needed to practice again and again.

[@dymbag1]

I don't want to rag on your wheel build, however, your mirror spoke on the left is facing the wrong direction. For the twisting force applied by the brake, the inside left spoke needs to be facing the back of the bike, this will ensure the spokes are loaded correctly when drive force and braking forces are applied. I understand this is a beginners tutorial however it's far simpler to place all spokes in the hub as doing this will eliminate the need to bend and twist spokes around other spokes to place them into the rim, as bending the spokes will weaken them leading to premature wear and failure. plus it is far faster to build a wheel when all spokes are in the hub to begin. I apologise if I sound like a dick, not my intention, more so just wanted to point out some areas for improvement

[@dymbag1]

After 21 years of building wheels, I have noticed on some wheels the lacing direction is crucial to the integrity of the wheel, so I always build with that in mind. You have made a lot of valid points in your video and given some good tips also. There are many ways to build wheels and everyone has their own way to do it. I used to build wheels using the method you use in the vid but found it to be very slow, While working as a wheel builder for a company I have learnt that lacing the whole hub is a faster way and there is no possibility of having to bend a spoke into place. Once again I don't want to sound like in bagging your work but just offering an opinion on possible areas for potential improvement and a bombproof build. Best regards pete

[@Browns553]

Sorry but it makes no difference, it’s like saying if I stand on that ant it could effect the future, there is nothing wrong. At all with Ali’s wheel build (that’s with just 10 years experience building and riding wheels)

[@encimadelarmariom19]

I though the inside going back could touch the rotor under heavy braking. Has ali says theres no standar on this.

[@firstdreamwalker]

Depends on the dominating force. For a road racing bicycle with rimbrakes for example, Ali did the correct direction because mainforce is on the driveside. It's said that the forces of discbrakes are even stronger than the forces of the driveside and in this case its the opposite direction like dimbag said. But i did my 27,5 discwheels the same direction Ali did in the vid and never got any probs with this wheelbuild for years now....

[@Hertog_von_Berkshire]

For a rim-braked rear wheel, innies should undoubtedly be pullers and outies pushers, thus causing all spokes to flex inwards (towards the wheel's centre-line) under drive and braking, and minimising the chance of the derailleur pinging the spokes in bottom gear. *Achieve this by inserting the very first drive-side spoke to the right of the valve hole and rotate the hub in the drive direction (clockwise).* For a disc-braked rear wheel, there's a design conflict. On the one hand, driving forces dictate that innies should be pullers as before. On the other hand, disc-braking forces act on the spokes in the opposite sense - under braking pullers relax and pushers tighten and spokes laced properly by drive/rim-braking considerations will flex outwards(away from the wheel's centre-line). Additional considerations are (a) that there is now a disc caliper, not just a derailleur, against which the spokes might ping in any gear, (b) that braking forces are likely to be greater than drive forces. So, all things considered, it's probably safer to lace a disc-braked rear wheel with innies as pushers and outies as pullers. *Achieve this by inserting the very first drive-side spoke to the left of the valve hole and rotate the hub opposite to the drive direction (anti-clockwise).*

[@ramoncalvobaron3316]

Amazing, I have been watching your videos about how to build a wheel and those are the best I've ever seen, better than park tool videos. I have been strugling with my enve rim +DT240, always paying shitty local dealers to do the job, now I'm going to do it mayself!. Cheers from Spain Barcelona

[@sprocketcycles4424]

Sorry instructions weren’t clear I taped my dog to my ceiling

[@bikelifewill6483]

Hahahaha

[@iffy_too6465]

I'd say thats the best instructions unclear Ive ever seen

[@Angus-Bethune]

So stoked about this how-to Ali! I've built 7 wheels mostly from old parts and I have a set of hope hubs, spank rims and sapim double butted spokes and black brass nipples, to build a set of dream wheels for my 26" street trials bike (inspired by you). I've never used a tension gauge and don't have a truing stand I'll have to get them at some point because I'm loving wheel building. I've been spending a lot of time lacing each side so the torque pulls the outer spoke I guess it's just a lot of extra time 17 minutes for a wheel build is insane I can see how starting with the heads facing out lets you lace the spokes up without having the issue of getting the spokes caught up on the other side I've made that mistake often. I like how you grab eight spokes by feel the sign of a true pro I guess it's always a 1/4 of the total spoke count 32 being the most common. Cool you went 4 cross that is stronger right? I agree on lubing after lacing, any special lube that holds up over time to prevent seizing or do you re lube occasionally? I like the cable tie feeler I always cringe when I hear those metal feelers scraping nice wheels! I saw the shoe and knew it must be for pre-stressing the wheels but I has no idea how you would do it! That is a crazy technique which I'll have to get the nerve up to try. If you and Adam from tarty do it it must be the way to go I've been twisting with a spanner and it can damage the black coating and takes time. I like the wind back technique I've had wheels ping a long way into a ride even just an old wheel after a truing. I know this is an essay I loved the video and couldn't help it!

[@johnchen1997]

That shirt is sick, where can I get one of those.

[@GreenRiverRider]

Great video. Thank you for posting this. Minute 17:39 had me thinking I couldn't mess it up at this point, yet somehow I did. After staring at it long enough, I finally realized I had my 3 cross but I needed to go over one more spoke hole so I could get the 3 cross pattern on the other side. I guess I wasn't paying enough attention. Anyway, minor mistake corrected and I went on to finish my first wheel build.

[@pmaui]

Good video but the stress test made me cringe like "uhhh nooo don't do it!!" hahaha!

[@dudeonbike800]

I stress relieve three ways: First, cold set spokes against the flanges, then push in at each cross. Second, pull parallel spokes during tensioning and truing. Third, sideways force on both sides around the wheel to relieve spoke wind-up for final high-tolerance true. This requires the appropriate touch - less for narrow 100C wheels, more for wider, smaller wheels. I find it difficult to eliminate all the spoke wind-up just using the parallel spoke pull method in the truing stand. (And at final true, I manually over-rotate the nipple and then go back to unwind the spoke so I am not adding more wind up to the wheel.)

[@sapinva]

I use the bike frame and a finger to true, pluck the spokes to tune to tension, and ride for 50 miles to set before re-truing (lot more more work but fewer tools). The shoe method actually makes more sense than Sheldon Brown's wrench method for setting the spokes -- sort of a middle road between brute force and letting them set themselves over time.

[@invidios]

15:46 Easy peasy lemon squeezy. Hold my beer!

[@martinmccue7495]

Superb tutorial Ali, especially on video as opposed to being in the room. Crystal clear.

[@yukelss]

When he just straight up stepped on the fresh wheel I swear I saw my soul leave my body

[@xongxina]

my heart skipped a beat

[@julz19]

He has high quality parts, don't do it on a budget

[@retardno002]

@@julz19 budget or not I think you have to do it, otherwise the spokes will snap in place later on during use, and lose tension.

[@carlomartin5362]

This has been so helpful. I've use this video and "The Bicycle Wheel Book" time and time again for reference. Thanks for taking the time and putting this video together Ali.

[@suminshizzles6951]

This is rubbish. He used some cheap ass alu nipples. Brass all the way. With linseed oil. This guy is a muppet. Anybody that uses alu nipples needs to have their head examined.

[@keyshey]

Ali how do you know how long the spokes and nipple should be? Is there a guide?

[@mickenoss]

Trial and error, sometimes you get lucky and find someone on the internet who has built the same hub/rim combo. Sometimes you find a friendly mechanic who'll know. In my experience formula rarely work and guides are usually wrong lol. I kept a list of every wheel I ever built, so there was a good chance I had the lengths already or could make a decent guesstimation.

[@fastbicyclerider7300]

Watch the video I more time

[@lukasradzimski1033]

Dt Swiss Spoke Calculator. Look it up!

[@mickenoss]

I always used dt swiss and found the calculator was very hit and miss.

[@skymaracle]

DT calculator is spot on. It's trigonometry, double check your measurements or the measurements you are using. The math behind spoke calculators can be found in a book called the bicycle wheel, by Jobst Brant.

[@iancho9587]

Thanks a ton Ali! I'll never get tired of watching this type of videos, keep 'em popin'...

[@primal5435]

Not to be the annoying person who are saying you're doing it incorrect. But you're missing one very important step in a wheel build process, and that's figuring out if it's a left or right drilled rim. And building the wheel with that in mind. When you're not doing this, 50% of your wheel builds will be incorrectly build and go out of true a lot easier than usual.

[@Ali_Clarkson]

Valid point!

[@primal5435]

@@Ali_Clarkson Other than that, I'd say this is the best guide out there! :)

[@primal5435]

@Muhammad Izzat Hi! Well, almost all rims have the holes drilled slightly at an angle either left or right, this pattern alternates each hole. When you're building the wheel, you have to make the right flange (right side of the hub), connect only to the "right side drilled holes". and the same with the left side. How to do it, is not something I can explain over text unfortunately :(

[@henrigolles]

Using it for the 5th time today... Worked well

[@hobidolap]

wished the music was lower...

[@broganbursill3389]

I never even noticed the music

[@hobidolap]

Ali Clarkson i am sorry i am not a native english speaker so i am having problem keeping up...

[@bhew7409]

captions bro

[@bhew7409]

Ali Clarkson you are English so auto generated captions actually work 😀

[@kraisydave]

The music level was fine on my system. It could just be the individuals speaker setup or headphones.

[@bhew7409]

I don't even have a bike, but now I want to put my new wheel building skills to the test. Cool vid Ali!

[@AlenHR]

Until you brought out the shoe, I was not so sure about your expertise.

[@andreyboichenko3737]

Sorry for my English) I build all my wheels by my self, maybe about 2 years. I am not a good rider, and my landings in a street and dirt jumps is hard. But I don't destroy any wheel yet. But this how-to was very helpful! Definitely, after this video, my level is became a bit higher. Thank you!

[@briandoherty1842]

300th view

[@Darkhalfcustoms]

Best explanation I've ever heard. Laceing a wheel has always been voodoo to me. But after that I'll build my own from now on. I always have to settle for rims I don't like to get hubs that fit my bike. Thank you sir.

[@mcloopie]

Best tutorial on KZbin. Thank you so much

[@RobWhittlestone]

EXCELLENT TUTORIAL ALI! I never saw such a great wheel-building tutorial - and the tricks and shortcuts show your experience. All kudos to you. You are the wheel-building star! I currently don't plan to build any wheels (but maybe true one or two?) but watched anyway, your teaching was so clear and watchable.

[@paulnieh591]

The stomping was an eye opener! I'll give that a go on my next build! I mostly just do push ups holding the rim...8 pushups per side w/ 1/8 turn after each push up, until the true doesn't change after a push up session. I also build w/ special pliers I made to avoid spoke wind up, especially at high tensions. Something else I've discovered using Sapim...their polyax nipple washers makes tensioning SO much easier! Anti-seize for lube and you can get up to 120kgf of tension w/o feeling it in your fingers at all!

[@SinisterIGN]

Mission accomplished! I just laced my first wheel. Thanks for the great video.

[@georgiaguardian4696]

So PRO. I had seen how wheels are set on the truing stand to true them but I had not idea how to true them at all. It’s an art! Please keep posting videos about bikes! Just subscribed!

[@Jonathan906]

You should have seen the look on my friend's face this evening when I applied your stomping method. It works though, and so easy to do.

[@Dayo1985]

Used this video, cant believe I actually managed to do it. A+++ will buy again

[@Sparkeater]

I think your music for action scenes is always very good, I like the production of all your videos, but for technical things once it gets to the meat I think no music is better. And please do MORE technical guides! This was awesome! Please, you have 20 years of trials know-how, and seeing you build world class wheels in your living room was incredibly inspiring!