Buying a Rover P6 2000TC for the Morgans Miles fleet

[@michaelbarlow3686]

S1 P6 2000TC and 3500 had strip speedo (like the SC & SC auto) with a rev counter mounted in-between the speedo and clock. S2 cars had round instruments with updated wiper/light switches with a unique 3 & 2 spoke knob enabling easy find in the dark. The S2 cars also had the twin flutes on the bonnet in line with the V8. Also introduced were knobs in the front doors to control the quarter lights to prevent theft and a move from the central ignition switch to a combined steering lock. Your car has the later 2200 steering wheel. Hope this helps.

[@chisnsid]

Awesome wagon. Nice video my friend

[@droopsnoot37]

Glad you have another it's white that same as mine. We both sold the blue one and bought a white one😂

[@KJM.72]

Congratulations on your purchase looking forward to seeing more content on p6

[@scottmay7862]

Really enjoying the content, not too sure about the background music 😊

[@Morgans_Miles]

Thanks - I’m not convinced by it either! I’m not sure I’ll bother next time.

[@coopdivi]

Agree with you 100%. Please ditch the background music, it's really annoying.

[@WheelchairWonders]

An excellent choice. Yes of course I have one and absolutely love it. I've done most of the jobs you've mentioned purely for safety and reassurance sake on mine. So, welcome back to the P6 club.. (Phil - Lancashire)

[@classic_britain]

Great little car you will love it!

[@peterbroad1772]

The PAS conversion is quite popular as the ownership tends to be on the "mature" side. The pump is most likely to be a PSA one from a Saxo or similar. If not then a 1990s GM one from an Astra. These are self-regulating and you can fit them to almost anything. They require only an ignition feed via a relay and plumbing. The problem is peak current draw can be 60amps + and they should be fused at around this level and have suitably heavy connects to the starter solenoid or alternator - so a 100amp relay and a "maxi" fuse holder. My guess is this wasn't done to the right capacity and burned out during a parking manoeuvre. Ideally you need to uprate the alternator to something like am A127 which are cheap enough but put out 70-80 amps.

[@Morgans_Miles]

That sounds about right - there is a socking great big fuse going to it, but I'm not sure where it picks up its power from at the moment. It seems to work very well!

[@peterbroad1772]

@@Morgans_Miles It can really only be direct from the alternator OR the starter. The rest of the wiring isn't really up to it.

[@martinhunt6004]

Most splendid.

[@stephentaylor1476]

Also the 2200 seats as far as I could see. They were different and in my opinion better.

[@martinnorth2680]

Nice P6, nice presenting style. Subscribed

[@doveronefoxtrot4417]

I think the TC's had the round clocks, the SC's had the strip dash as far as I can remember.

[@tombrehony6277]

The later TC S , Came with the round instruments to the best of my knowledge. The twin carbs on the 2.2 TC were difficult to set up. Best of luck . Overall a great car.

[@peterbroad1772]

PS loads of support in Classic Rover Forum and Facebook.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Looks great, will help you where I can 👍

[@Morgans_Miles]

Thanks Steve! Much appreciated.

[@gabrieloconnell3434]

looking for one of these stunning car really nice drive check the sender on the petrol tank and check fuel lines too check the servo the rubber on master cyninder can go

[@MichaelThomas-be7gq]

Congrats on your buy. First, the brakes are servo-assisted; there is a master/slave servo which should make an atmosphere with a swoosh noise; that's the first thing to check. After that, they are massive 2-piston calipers front and back. They should be only slightly worse than modern brakes - they can throw out the anchors. However, the rears are in-board, and one of them has a separate handbrake system as a set of cams in it. I think it is the nearside. This one is a pig of a job, it tends to be a specialist bit of work. Ignore the manuals, drop the half splines, and they will come off. Really... check out Rover's Owners Forum. My advice is to get them off the car, and check the piston for a ring of rust (usually where they rest if it is laid up); if okay, great, then look to get the right calliper repair kit. Wynn's can supply those It looks like an early Series 2, and with the 2.2 - it's been modded. No biggie, although the 2000TC is the best balanced of all P6's, the 2200TC is an overbored 2-litre block. So it should be the best P6 drive of the lot. The reason why the speedo is not working is the speedo drive. The Series 1 and 2 drives are not compatible. Take the carpet off the transmission tunnel on the passenger side, and there should be a big rubber bung. Under that is the speedo drive, and you can tell if you have a series 1 - it's all metal, or series 2 - it's got plastic lugs to the box and cable. Also, check the fuse box, Series 1 - 4 fuses, Series 2 - more, and the fuse box itself is an ignition horror show. Get imperial fuses at all costs with the Series 2 - or it WILL catch fire. Better - replace it completely. I have a '69 P6 V8 Series 1, and had a '73 2000TC.... so good luck, buy the Rover works manual - it's massive, and has everything you need. It's a work of art but also, really, really good at keeping it on the road. P6's are brilliant cars when they go, the engineering is excellent, your battle is against previous owners, and age.

[@Morgans_Miles]

Thank you so much for the advice. All duly noted. 🙂

[@dreammaker730]

Oh gosh you have your own channel hello there 😀. Very pleased to see you on youtube . Your video poped up after sheldon from classic britain he is a young chap but knows alot about the p6 give his channel a look. Are you still in the imp club ? Going back in the mists of time what was that grey imp you used to have called ?

[@Morgans_Miles]

Grey Imp Californian? That would be Archie - now owned by an old friend and under a very long term resto. Oh and sill an Imp Club member. :-)

[@porscha901]

P6 owners club join it