Buying a used Hasselblad? Checks to make when buying secondhand (500C 500CM 503CX 503CW 501C 501CM).

[@sfenwick]

Just purchased a 503 CX. Very helpful video. Thank you from Chicago!

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Glad it was useful. Enjoy the Hasselblad!

[@PianoPets]

Hi Jonathan, I just bought a Hasselblad 501 CM after many years using Canon and Leica. It is my first analog camera. And this video was an invaluable resource during the buying process. It made me confident, that the camera I bought is in great shape. Thanks for that! I have subscribed to your channel now and will check out your other videos. There's clearly lots and lots of valuable knowledge to gain here. Thanks again.

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Thanks - glad it was useful

[@virgmos]

This video has been incredibly helpful! Thank you for the detailed information on what to look for on the 500 series.

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Glad it was useful - thanks

[@LIKETHEDINER]

such a dream camera! and so happy i found this video. dont have much on my material bucket list for life, but a hasselblad 501cm is definitely on it! they seem so special

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Yes, agree 100%!

[@progtom7585]

Thanks heaps. Saw another photographer with a 501cm on KZbin and now fancy one myself 😀

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Glad I could help!

[@buyaport]

Thanks for sharing and your effort!

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

My pleasure!

[@fmrphoto]

Still regret trading in my 501cm kit for a Canon 1ds MKII back in 2007. Wasn't an even trade, had to throw in more $$$ for the Canon ($6k at the time!) but it did get me to where I am today. Thankfully my XPan never left.

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Many others did the same. During the early digital years almost nobody wanted film Hasselblads. Demand has only picked up in the last few years.

[@CulturalCats]

Ooh nice, now you have to choose whether to hold onto the XPan or take an early retirement.

[@mattiashaggstrom2049]

Apart from the shutter it is good to check that the aperture is closing down quick. I bought a lens where you can see it clearly that the aperture is slow and do not reach its correct position before the exposure is initiated. (I returned the lens)

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Thank you

[@arricammarques1955]

Detailed explanation. Nice bit of kit, mate.

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Thanks for your comment. Yes, Hasselblad, superb equipment!

[@arricammarques1955]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange Seeking 501 C. Prefer 120mm & 35mm film.

[@arricammarques1955]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange 1998 Hasselblad 503 CX be costly to CLA?

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Hasselblad back around GBP 80, Hasselblad lens around GPB 140, Hasselblad body around GPB 200

[@arricammarques1955]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange PS. UV filter for Carl Zeiss 50mm lens?

[@andrewhowarth4578]

Nice video! Like all of yours. I'll add just one comment, as the result of experience. IF you intend to use a lens with flash, check that the PC socket is working properly by using it to trigger an electronic flash at the X synch setting. I once bought a lens that passed all tests, but when I tried to use it with flash, it didn't fire the flash, which is an expensive fix. If you don't plan to use it with flash, it's not a problem, but with a system this expensive, I like all of my lenses to be as close to perfect as possible in all respects. It doesn't happen often, but if it does, it can be either frustrating or expensive! Andy

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Thanks for commenting - always appreciated

[@monjue4459]

thank you for that information. great video.

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Thanks - appreciated.

[@jean-philippemetras361]

Amazing thank you!

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

You're very welcome!

[@stephenm103]

Didnt hear you mention light seals? Is the “rope” you mentiomed the only seal to be aware of? Nothing between the back snd body? Also - if in a shop might not be able to run a test roll before buying but they may have a digital back that could be mounted (?)

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

The design of the body and back mean no perishable seals are needed. A raised metal ridge aligns with a groove to make light-tight when the back is attached. Light leaks will only occur if there is substantial mechanical damage (which will be easy to spot). Perishable seals are used inside Hasselblad backs and these need to be checked and replaced every few years (part of any service).

[@stephenm103]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange thank you for sharing this info!

[@ericlin7259]

Thank you for your videos! Great information here. I found a used 500 CM that is in great condition and passes all the checks you mentioned except for the shutter pre-release button. Nothing happens when I push it up. You mentioned that issue as something to look out for. I don't see myself using it much, but is that an indication of something larger at issue with the camera? Is it an easy repair? All shutter speeds seem to fire correctly and consistently (even at 1s and 1/2s). Any advice would be appreciated!

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

The shutter pre-release can get sticky if not used. Try ‘working’ it otherwise I expect a service will sort.

[@ericlin7259]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you. I'll give it a try.

[@eraclefigliodizeus]

Amazing video, many thanks! ...Hasselblad 503cw + 80mm CFE + A12 + Acute Matte D (no box, only papers)... All Grade A+... 4500 Euro is a correct price?! Tnx

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Glad it was useful. Sounds a bit expensive but if it’s perfect it’s not outrageous!

[@johnrflinn]

Have you ever done a review on the Mamiya Super 23 with the 100mm F2.8 lens. It is supposed to be similar to the 100mm f2.8 Zeiss lens used on the Hasselblad.

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

It’s on the list. Hopefully soon!

[@andreashaller1479]

Hall and thxs for your helpfull informations. I just bought a complete set with 500 cm and all the synchro lenses in a really good condition, but !!! the products was 30 years not used, only standing in the box. Now with testing it works sometimes and sometimes not. What should i do? You have an idea for me please? (sorry my bad english, this germans ;-)) Thxs Andreas

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Not used for 30 years? It will need servicing! Hasselblad, like anything mechanical, does need to be used regularly and maintained. Get it serviced and use it and it will serve you well for decades. It’s fantastic equipment.

[@andreashaller1479]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange OK thanks. Last question, should i Take the newer Screen acute Matte D?

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Yes, both the Hasselblad Acute Matte and Acute Matte D screens do improve viewing. The original screen isn’t great in low light.

[@andreashaller1479]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange ok this is what i thought too. Do you have such a screen, cause i do not trust everybody on ebay and they are offen too expensive.

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Sorry, nothing at the moment. They are becoming quite difficult to find in decent condition. I’m sure you’ll find one locally?

[@stephenm103]

Have been able to put my hands on a couple of gently used bodies (still trying to inform myself before plunking down hard-earned cash). On one of the two I observed some kind of black flaking on the mirror. Nothing terrible - but obviously something deteriorating in the body. We dusted off the mirror and snapped the shutter several times over and observed another little fleck. Wondering if this is common and evidence of anything more serious. Also on both bodies I noticed that there is ever so slightly a rotational "wiggle" between the back and the body. Shouldn't this be a rock solid connection or is 1/2 millimeter (or less?) common? The "wiggle" is around the centerline of the lens mount laterally - in either horizontal plane there was no "wiggle" at all.

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Sounds like there is some paint or maybe light baffle deterioration in the Hasselblad body. Unlikely to be serious but I would get it checked by a competent repairer. When was the camera last serviced? A tiny amount of rotational play between a Hasselblad body and Hasselblad back is common and shouldn’t be an issue.

[@stephenm103]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange No records of last service on the two I was able to put my hands on (local retailers). But also - I see a lot of these sold online with no record of CLA and beginning to very much appreciate how important that OR some kind of reasonable warranty coverage would be. I appreciate you sharing your experience. Took a look at the WCE web site thinking I might be able to return the favor but didnt come up with much in current inventory (use Hasselblad)

[@rx6745]

Hi Jonathan, really love your videos. Helped me a lot purchasing my first 503cxi. I recently received my camera with the 80 2.8 lens. There is a slight issue which confuses me quite a lot. When the lens is cocked and I turn the shutter speed ring, there’s a strange sound (sounds like something is loose inside). Once the shutter is fired and I turn the ring, the stranger sound is gone. I have run through all the checks you suggested in your videos. The lens seems to be functioning normally. Any ideas what going on here? Thanks a lot! Michael

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

I’d recommend having a Hasselblad repairer check it out. The lens may be working perfectly now but the problem could lead to future issues.

[@rx6745]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange thank you so much Johnathan. I’ll get it checked by a repairer 🤗

[@sjmheron]

As prices seem to be close between 501 and 503, is it worthwhile to search out a clean 503 for a generally newer item, or is the addition of electronics (if you generally use an external meter) just another potential issue?

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

The main difference is a TTL flash function. If that’s not important then buy the newest/ cleanest camera you can. Remember the 501CM and 503CW have an updated mirror which works better with long lenses.

[@lesstalkmorepics]

What are your thoughts on cracking palpas on the inside of the body? I just purchased a very good condition 501c but noticed the inside has some cracking

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Leica suffers the same problem. It’s annoying and can be very expensive to get fixed. Doesn’t generally impact performance except, sometimes, if on the rear curtains, black bits can end up on sensor (if using a digital back). In this case it can be accessed so easily replaced.

[@lesstalkmorepics]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you for response! Do you know if there are any hasselblads without this palpas coating?

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Yes. Earlier cameras didn’t use it. Both Hasselblad and Leica used it in the 1990s but it didn’t stand the test of time. But, still, I’d prefer a 501C with cracked palpas over an earlier 500CM without.

[@lesstalkmorepics]

@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you for the context - I am curious though, what about the later models with palpas is better than the earlier models?

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Newer Hasselblads are generally, but not always, less used, in better condition and more serviceable. Also, more recent equipment benefits from improvements made over time (with the exception of the palpas!)

[@Blackmind0]

i see often this two blinds having kinda cracks ?

[@WorldwideCameraExchange]

Yes , it’s the palpas and nothing to worry about. If it gets very bad a Hasselblad repairer will be able to replace it. Affects cameras made in the 1990s.

[@Blackmind0]

​@@WorldwideCameraExchange...thank you..👍