What is PETG HF Filament?

[@pearlharbor8065]

I've used about a dozen spools of this PETG HF now and I really like it. I have always dried PETG before using. Also, buying in bulk and buying refill vs spool will save you a bunch.

[@elvinhaak]

Nice. About the drying, well.... I have had many spools from other venders in PETG and other types that one time are nice and dry in the vacuumpack and next time- or just next spool- just a bit less dry. It depends a lot at storage and transport too. Also inside the bags. These are not aluminium-sealed so still plastic and moisture gets in. So for me, it is always a good recommendation to dry before use, even if 'dry' before it is packaged.

[@mattk7yeg682]

I bought four rolls and I have opened two. I dried both for 12 hours and calibrated the red. (X1C) The red printed beautifully, the white was a disaster. I calibrated the white separately and now it prints well also. Between the two the calibrations came out very differently with same drying time. The next two rolls I will run the calibration before I bother printing.

[@justinmorgan7851]

Thanks for the vid! BTW, Bambu already offers PETG HF on spools, it's just that the yellow color in your example was sold out at the time of filming, and only the refill version was still in stock.

[@BV3D]

Well, I feel like a goober for having missed that. Thanks for the info! 😄

[@justinmorgan7851]

@@BV3D It’s not your fault, Bambu’s web store is just really bad about showing what’s available for sale but not in stock.

[@UncleJessy]

Awesome vid and 100% agreed. I don’t typically dry my brand new rolls of petg before using them but looks like I definitely should start doing that with these rolls

[@BV3D]

Thanks! Yeah, from my experience with them, the PETG HF is going to need to get dry and *_stay_* dry.

[@simonr23]

I've been using Bambu's PETG HF filament for the last month and a bit. Plus a couple of rolls of e-Sun PETG. i havent dried any of them. just opened them up, chucked on the AMS lite, and have been printing perfectly since, using Bambu's default print profiles for PETG HF (and generic PETG for the e-Sun). It's not mega humid where i am, about 40-45% in the room.

[@goflydrone6447]

Another great vid , you are my top creator on 3D printing , no waffle just facts,hints,tips.. thanks for creating such great vids

[@BV3D]

Thanks! I appreciate that! ☺

[@DaveInTheFort]

Excellent Video! I recieved my first two spools of HF showed up earlier this week. I did dry mine, and both my A1 and P1S detected the PETG-HF. Another odd thing, there was well over a 30% time saving from basic stock parameters and HF stock parameters. It was a more basic model vs a benchy though. It printed insanely clean and near equivalent speeds tp PLA Basic. I'm seriously considering switching to HF as my main filament if it continues to print this well.

[@brianbolton5566]

When I was a kid, I used to wake up on the weekends and watch cartoons on actual tv and then when the cartoons were over, Car build/mechanic shows would come on and I would continue watching those. Needless to say I grew to love those kinds of shows and something about this video reminds me of those days, with the quirky little jabby jokes, the cadence and even the transitions. Thanks for the nostalgia.

[@glennfelpel9785]

I think I will stay with the recommendations of the manufacturers right out of the box, so to speak. :-) But on the other hand, now we know drying is a requirement. Thank you for this video it is very well done.

[@aaronmorris9352]

I’ve been using Elegoo Rapid PETG for a while now and overall have been pretty happy. I just tried the PETG-HF and I think it looks smoother overall, but I definitely need to try drying it to get rid of the “zits”. My big issues with Elegoo have been the cardboard spools sometimes being too tight and the AMS just constantly stopping.

[@t0nyz0]

Thanks for the dried vs non-dried test. I printed right out of the box, exact same results.

[@jav74modified71]

I’m here to learn by the examples of all you printers. So I learned something before I’ve even started. I have a role of black w/ spool that should arrive this week with the pla rolls. Not that I was going to use it right away. But I’ve seen reviews where it’s used as supports. And I’ve had blasters and ant formicariums that were printed using it.

[@iainhay2823]

About to watch to hear your thoughts but I’m coming right in to say I’ve been using this for a couple of days and I’m loving this stuff, no stringing at all. I have dried as recommended and I have this on spools in the UK, all recognised by the AMS just fine

[@BV3D]

The dry-before-use part seems to be critical with this filament. 😅 I learned my lesson!

[@iainhay2823]

@@BV3D certainly looks like it! I’ve just taken to drying anything I buy as soon as I receive it and sealing up myself when I know it is!

[@galebourn]

Getting those is extremely hard, at least over here in Germany. I got a few spools but white was already sold out, today I checked the store again and every single color is sold out.

[@MarcusBrannon]

Finally, High Fidelity filament

[@BV3D]

😄

[@DWIT3D]

Great first look Bryan! I have four rolls of this to try. I plan to do the same as you with pre and post drying prints to see if there’s much difference here in our dry Calgary environment! 😊

[@BV3D]

Thanks! I'm eager to see your dry/not-dry test results!

[@notsurt]

I'd be curious to see the difference between PETG HF and regular PETG printed with the PETG HF settings.

[@deannaatkinson3004]

I just ordered 8 spools of this PETG HF. Looking forward to a big print project. I always like having information about a thing. I’ll be sure to dry the spools as they come out of the bag. I’d be interested in knowing if they stay reasonably dry in the AMS, with desiccant pods. I saw another creator’s test of this. He ran a flow test and that solved the ‘zits’ issue. I need to rerun all of my calibration tests since I’ve started using the BIQU Revo nozzle/hotend on my P1S.

[@skinnybricks]

Based on all the comments... Maybe trying to sell PETG to the average Bambu owner was a mistake when they expect it to just work like PLA tends to do. It's like giving someone a free spool of PA12CF or just ABS and them freaking when it doesn't work how they'd expect. People are about to find out PETG can be a bit of a PITA sometimes, but once you get it figured out it's fine.

[@defaultname2417]

lmao Yeah,... I think you nailed it with the description.

[@skinnybricks]

@@defaultname2417 The comments i've heard about people complaining about having to dry the filament is hilarious. That's 100% normal for most filaments, but especially PETG. And if you get into the more "engineering grade" filaments, it's mandatory. Maybe Bambu made a mistake of trying to sell PETG as being easy to work with as PLA. Which...it's not that much worse, let's be honest.

[@BV3D]

I generally print in PLA, so that's where a lot of my expectation comes from. To be 100% fair to Bambu, they do say to dry the PETG HF before use. I took that as more of a suggestion than a necessity, but I learned my lesson. If they say dry it before you use it, DO IT. 😅

[@skinnybricks]

@@BV3Doh I wasn’t necessarily jabbing at you, I just meant a lot of the comments made it clear to me that a lot of people just print PLA on these machines, it seems. I’ve been there too though. Had some PETG give me a lot of trouble and nozzle clogs not that long ago because I was in a hurry and didn’t dry it. 😂

[@BV3D]

@@skinnybricks I took no offense at the comment at all -- just owning up to being a mostly-PLA printing person! (and keeping my PETG HF dry!)

[@aberodriguez4149]

Good to know dry it before use, I prefer less pits and stringing. Thanks for sharing.

[@Klierland12]

Thanks, mate! I always presumed, that filament was bone-dry when opening the packaging. Eye opener. X

[@billmartian3731]

I have a A1 unit, with an AMS lite is it usefull to print with fillement that needs to be dried on forehand ? Also what filement dryer would you suggest ? And last question I saw on makerworld that you could print a closing system for you ams lite, would that help if you would dry your fillement before putting it on the ams ? Sorry alot of questions here, kinda new to 3d printing

[@Guaranteed_JET]

This was informative and well done. Thanks!

[@GhostlyGnome-iq9wl]

The high speed PETG by Elegoo came dried and ready to go! It's also very competitively priced on amazon i got a 4 spool bundle at around 16.80$cnd per spool. I changed the default Max Volumetric Speed for Bambu Generic PTEG to 18 from 8. I used this approach because the Generic High Speed PLA setting has a MVS of 18 mm/s over the standard 12 mm/s. Both Elegoos high speed PLA and PETG are rated for 600mm/s so I thought this should work. It did. I get faster great quality prints (A1 Mini). I am staring to really like PETG! You can really tell the difference between it and PLA after you see the inter layer adhesion go down so smoothly. Ah Chiefs Kiss!

[@chriss590]

Yeah, that's what I've been using. 2-pack for about $10 a spool and the only annoyance is the cardboard spool in the AMS sometimes gets bent. I've just been using the generic petg profile. Will have to try changing some of those settings and see how it does.

[@genemaster74]

G'day BV3D.....small fix, use the Sunlu S4 full of this type of filament. Kept in mode 2 will keep the fillament to set dry and heat settings, so filament will always be ready...Cheers Bryan from A M8 Downunder🙃

[@BV3D]

Thanks! The S4 is probably the only filament dryer I *_DON'T_* have! I've got that Eibos one that'll do two spools at once and has a "humidity hold" mode, though!

[@ingGS]

I have been using this PETG HF for months now with no issue. I haven’t dried my new ones and they come out just fine.

[@toddy9141]

I get drying out the bag, but do you have to dry it before every use there after with the HF? As my regular Sunlu petg, I dry it, use it, store in an airtight box with desiccant and I’ll get say 4-6 more print runs with it, say with 2-3 weeks each time in the airtight container before I see a drop in quality and having to re dry. So basically I can get away with not drying for 1.5-2 months before drying again. FYI I’m in the Uk, so not very humid if at all lol 👍🏻

[@striker6967]

Same as any other moisture absorbing filament. You dry it fully once then as long as you store it dry you're good for a long while.

[@danielecrudo180]

Thank you, I just bought a p1s combo and I will have to print some objects with petg hf. I was thinking I had not to dry the filament if boxed and new, now I know I was wrong.

[@GamingWithURO]

Thanks for this. Just ordered a couple rools on the spool last night👍👍

[@Kaas_]

How would you dry the spool without a dryer?

[@umbratherios5614]

What is the creep characteristics of this platic though? does it creep more or similar to regular PETG? that and the low glass trans temp of PLA is the only reason Im starting to really switch to petg. Any strain and it (Pla) just permanently deforms after a few days. Petg just... doesnt.

[@Emmenseuk]

Ive been trying to dial this in, Ive dried the filament which definatly reduced the pitting in my prints, but stil quite alot of pitting any suggestions on how to resolve this before i undertake a large print?

[@cluebin8398]

The only issue I've had with PETG-HF is very ugly seams on continuous loops. The outer wall of your cooler cube has no corners to hide seams so you should have seen one on the surface somewhere, but I didn't see one in your video. I spent a day playing with seam settings and in combination with pressure advance and some other filament settings I was able to get the seams to be tolerable. Scarf seam settings didn't help, you just wind up with two ugly seams instead of one when using that. I also did some experiments with filament drying and was not able to get a bad print. I took three rolls of the same color, opened one and let it sit out for two weeks, opened one and put it in a commercial dryer at 10% RE for two weeks and left the 3rd one sealed in the bag. I printed the same test print on all three spools on the same P1S printer and nobody could tell the difference. They all looked good, so I've just been using the filament out of the bag without drying until it becomes an issue.

[@Banjoba]

Very useful video. Thanks a lot.

[@BV3D]

Glad it was helpful!

[@BenitoMilan]

Do you need to dry before each non-consecutive use?

[@vahpr]

Another YT'er (Figure Feedback) reviewd this filament, found that the supplied profile was the main issue.

[@MrHeHim]

I just drank a coffee and the talk about wet filament ran away with me lol A great efficient and cheap way to dry filament very well is to find a convection oven at the thrift store and get yourself 2lbs of desiccant. Then buy some metal screen material at your local hardware store to pour it into and make a bag out of it. That way it breaths very well and you can just throw it into the convection oven. Most desiccant is made for up to 260c, but the oven can surge above that so i recommend setting it to 240c. Takes 1/2 hour for a 1lbs "bag" to dry, and i noticed that if i put in two 1lbs bags it takes about the same time but i still run it for 45 minutes just in case. The smaller bags you split the 2lbs into the more surface area you have ;-) I've tried the Microwave way, i noticed it tends to turn to dust over time. Doing it the "recommended" way or the safe way, too much heat concentrates and destroys it Otherwise, if you do the carboard box on the heated bed, it works far better with plane brown carboard so that it can transfer the humidity though it and out. And obviously it's also a good way you can dry your desiccant too, but it doesn't get as dry I also have a Comgrow filament dryer, but i still keep a 1/4lbs of desiccant in there while running for things like Nylon that need to be super dry. Most filament dryers have a critical flaw, that there completely sealed and don't have a good way for the humidity to escape. Which just gave me an idea 🤔why not have a wall made of wood, to allow humidity to escape that way while holding in the heat I did a test YEARS ago using a Kill-a-watt meter comparing the convection oven to drying on the bed, the convection oven used about 1/3 the electricity and the container i put that into hit 10% humidity within a few hours while the other only dropped to 15%. Both where around 20% BUT with totally different filaments in the containers. TOTTALLY uncontrolled test :-)

[@00-Dima]

Nice gonna order some

I really hope those refills are compatible with masterspool?

[@RollerCoasterLineProductions]

I ordered a couple spools, and before they arrived there was a “filament update” for the PETG HF, gotta check the boxes for it in the settings. It’s been a PITA to print using their settings but it prints fine when I use silent mode.

[@RollerCoasterLineProductions]

PS: I dried it for a day at 55 c cuz that’s all the hotter my sunlu drier got.

[@BV3D]

I'm pretty sure that's what happened for me. I updated the firmware and the slicer, but the in-app update may not have immediately presented itself. When it did, and I applied it, that's when Studio became aware of PETG HF. 😃

[@ronm6585]

Thanks Bryan.

[@BV3D]

You're welcome! 😊

[@DavidShermanMoxee]

What is your usual humidity level in your shop?

[@BV3D]

It's generally between 50%RH and 60%RH.

[@6320150]

At the risk of sounding like a Newby... (I am) Do you guys print with closed or open enclosure? ..... Bambu seems to have contradicting recommendations

[@ImaginationToForm]

I like getting Inlands spooless refills.

[@razorseal]

Sucks about the drying thing. I just got an A1 with AMS, and this won't work I guess because I can't keep the spools dry while printing.

[@dyops]

Thanks for the review! I have a few future projects that will require PETG. Hopefully they will turn out ok with this, or do you have other recommendations? Elegoo also has a rapid PETG. Don't know if that is OK.

[@chriss590]

I've gone through 3kg of the Elegoo RapidPETG and it has printed well. Just note that it has a cardboard spool, so keep that in mind if using with the AMS. Mine have sometimes been bent and got caught in the AMS.

[@cluebin8398]

I like your shirt BTW, you totally look like an old school programmer. I bet you've used Borland compilers in those glory days before the internet. (fellow programmer here from the same generation).

[@noobt4eguns]

I print big objects like the filament spool holder mount black pla elegoo thick walls 2mm 32 quality 30 infill lines 205 nozzle 60 bed and i am more than happy. I have Ender-3

[@markrobinson7831]

I dry everything theses days. Don't want to waste time and filament on a bad print.

[@bernardtarver]

6:05 Twelve hours to dry filament?

[@BV3D]

A lot of times I find it convenient to dry for 12 hours, particularly if I start the cycle at 6 or 7 at night. That way it's finishing at 6 or 7 in the morning, instead of midnight or 1:00 AM.

[@bernardtarver]

​@@BV3D Does your space allow filament to effectively absorb moisture that quickly after drying?

[@BV3D]

@@bernardtarver It's like 60% RH in the house today.

[@edclevel402]

We've entered the "gaining awareness" phase of 3D printing. 👽

[@MattTester]

Great to see this new material in use, thanks. I just stocked up on some PETG basic refills last week as I don't intend to use this at all, the drying requirement put me off as I can't do that. I have a Benchy here that was printed yesterday with multiple undried PETG filaments on my A1 Mini and the result is as good as or slightly better than the dried PETG HF result you have there, no imperfections at all. I'm happy to offset the time against the cost of running a dryer, so I suppose I'll be looking for another filament brand to use.

[@andybynum5365]

Does it really take an hour to print a benchie with petg? Pla takes 15 minutes.

[@BV3D]

With the *0.20mm Standard @BBL X1C* settings, and *Bambu PETG Basic* filament selected gives a 59m 20s Benchy. Selecting *Bambu PLA Basic* gives a 38m 2s Benchy. These are total print times, including the 6 or 7 minutes of "prep time." A 15 minute pre-sliced Benchy is usually done with every possible speed optimization, printed at 0.25mm layer heights, with minimal infill, etc. Remarkably, they generally look pretty good, particularly given the short printing times. But I'm using standard settings, not highly-optimized-for-a-speed-Benchy settings.

[@beauslim]

I don't bother trying PETG from any brand without throwing it in the dryer for 8 hours. Some needs 24. Apparently foil bags can stop moisture from getting in, but I've only seen those on ABS/ASA.

[@rcpilotjohn]

But having it dried before shipping would add to the cost, and this is a bit of a price conscious environment. Plus the boxes would then need to be dated so you would know if it was dried recently enough that it might still be dry. I always dry my PETG before use, so this is not a surprise.

[@davec8141]

If they take the time and labour to dry it the price goes up., then all the KZbin reviewers complain that it’s more expensive then similar filament .

[@BV3D]

You've got a good point...

[@elvinhaak]

That, and when it is shipped and later stored in humid or just wet environments, you might still have to dry it since the normal plastic bags are airtight but not moisture-tight. Like filament itself, it still lets moisture get through unless packaged in expensive special sealed (with aluminium for example, so now also going to the other waste-stack with mixed instead of plastic-recycling) bags. Some more expensive filaments I have came in those specially sealed bags and are dry untill opening, others are just not. So: even extra cost and extra waste just to make sure that end-users without experience with those kind of filaments print without drying or issues. They could even add a 'use by date' with a very short shelf-life too, or just add the strong advise tot dry, dry, dry.

[@HDashboards]

They recommend 8 hours of 65 degrees. Why does everyone here do it 12 hours? And which temperature

[@BV3D]

I dried it for 12 hours because that's convenient for me to do. If I start it at 7:00 PM, it finishes after I wake up the next morning, instead of sitting in the dryer for 4 hours absorbing moisture again. :)

[@HDashboards]

@BV3D thanks will do as well :). I recently bought the creality space double filament dryer.

[@Davidlahall]

Would you like to pay more for drying.... When you can do it yourself.

[@BackDaws]

Im in the UK and I've never dried anything yet and the results using pla and petg are perfect, also I don't understand why a lot of 3d print videos their print quality is really poor compared to what I get with the same print files. I think people over tinker and mess about too much with settings.

[@Zetler]

Looks like I won’t be printing PETG. I don’t have a dry box.

[@lonewolfsstuck]

it is dried at the factory, but PETG is very hygroscopic.

[@eaman11]

Well the AMS Lite being open air is no go for this. I'd rather use SUNLU PETG that you can get for half the price and print a little slower.

[@ToddCopeland]

So... pay a premium dollar _and_ have to dry it yourself? Why would the manufacture not dry it before selling it? Add in the drying time to the print time and its WAY slower!

[@milkybaravenger]

You have to dry pretty much every filament that isn’t pla, doesn’t matter who you by it from as the are hydroscopic and absorb moisture.

[@ToddCopeland]

@@milkybaravenger not by long shot. Opposite is true, especially right out of the box.

[@chriss590]

​@@milkybaravengerI haven't dried a single spool of the 5kg of Elegoo RapidPETG I've used, and had no issues from it.

[@ImaginationToForm]

The cup holder broke on my computer.

[@TakeItToTheGround]

Hmmm. Normal everyday PETG prints pretty easy anyway.

[@Robbrown92]

in an age where you can get a spool of petg from esun for £15 and print straight away, having to dry for 6 hours before hand is a joke

[@milospavlovic7520]

Drying filament on x1 would definitely not be free. You are taking up 1000$ machine time for a task that should be performed, often better, by a 50-100$ machine

[@stldenise]

Making people buy a dryer to use PETG is kinda lame. ☹ Though I have to say, I run into the same problem with their tpu.

[@Luke42652]

I always have to dry PETG, so this isn't abnormal. I have found food dehydrators to be much more efficient at drying than "filament dryers". You just have to ensure the temperature is correct. I use a certified air probe for cooking to dial in my temps. The cheap hygrometers are as much as 20F-30F off, which can mean the difference between the temp being too low, or being too high and potentially melting a spool.

[@eighty-eighth_section]

I strongly advise against drying with the X1C onboard utility. The best cost effective option is a food dehydrator (ones that fit multiple trays) and placing the material in a print dry container that works with the vaccuum pump immediately afterwards with molecular sieve. Fancy/spendt option is a vaccuum oven. I advise against dryer/spool holders, too.

[@Klierland12]

So for the next 12 hours I will be printing nottin", just drying.

[@Shenandoahleather]

I would advise anything but a Polydryer. They are terrible.

[@obie224]

it really blows my mind that anyone is willing to pay $23 for a kg of what amounts to plain old petg when it's available on amazon for $15 a roll or less, sometimes much less with a bulk discount.

[@ImaginationToForm]

HF - High Five. Silly

[@BV3D]

🖐️ 😉