Is HF PETG Actually High Flow? (And What Are The Trade-offs?)

[@hobbyistnotes]

I got 10 spools of this filament right when it came out, and so far, it's been much better than regular PETG in a lot of ways. I don't dry it at all, and I'm printing from the AMS on my Bambu P1S printers. It prints fine, even considering that I live in Florida's humid weather and the printers are located in the garage. Less stringing and easier support removal are two game-changers for me, especially since I sometimes want prints to hold up outside for a while.

[@blakes8901]

I have never had a video drop at a more perfect time than this one. I'm literally working with their PETG-HF for the first time right now and got a notification that you posted a video about it. Thanks for the data. I recommend checking out what happens when you try printing multiple organically detailed objects at the same time, because it seems like the default filament settings lead to some serious Z-Banding caused by varying flow rate (which can be visualized after slicing by switching from "line type" to "flow" in the upper right corner of the slicer), which was in turn caused by the "slow printing down" setting in the cooling tab. I ended up copying the filament profile over to OrcaSlicer (since they haven't updated to include it yet), leaving "slow printing down" enabled, and turning on "don't slow down on outer walls" as well as "precise wall" in the quality tab to fix it. Apologies if this is all self explanatory information to other viewers, but I thought I'd leave it here in case anyone had a similar issue in the future and was having trouble finding a solution.

[@aeonjoey3d]

I'm in the tank for it, I switched from elegoo rapid to BBL HF completely, been through about 20 spools since it came out and loving it. love the near matte sheen

[@st3venb]

I’m making the switch from Elegoo rapid to the Bambu stuff, hopefully I have the same luck!

[@gunningopher]

Elgoo Rapid PETG is so good and the price is right. I'm running it at 24mm3/Sec volumetric rate and it is flawless. Less goopy in my experience that the other (non HF) PETG filaments I've used. Honestly, there is barely any stringing at all. I printed a big fish tank filter intake screen with a 1mm grid. Every single one was printed perfectly. If I could get all the colors of PLA, I'd probably use it for almost everything I use PLA for. I bought all but 1 color now. $15/spool is a good price.

[@Shenandoahleather]

Agreed on offering both instead of just the inferior (on toughness) HF.

[@Davids3DProjects]

I've been using Elegoo Rapid PETG and I love it. I just turned up the temps and it works great! on the K1 Max. It is also sold in multiple and quad packs. The colors look good after printing.

[@crazeokc]

Yeah, same here, been using the Rapid on my K1 Max for a year or so now.

[@OhImKiCkiN]

I love their new PETG-HF. I use it for the majority of customer orders (unless they request otherwise) in place of PLA. That way I dont have to worry near as much if they leave their print in a hot car or something.

[@ScytheNoire]

PETG not great for being in a hot car. Really want ASA for the heat and UV resistance.

[@OhImKiCkiN]

@@ScytheNoire I think you misunderstood. I don't print objects designed to be in a hot car in anything less than temp resistant than Nylon. I'm saying I replaced my PLA with PETG-HF for regular (usually PLA) things like flexi-animals and kids toys so I don't have to worry about it if a kid leaves it in a car accidentally.

[@TheFishingHobby]

I print and sell rod building jigs for people who build fishing rods. These are functional prints that need the mechanical property advantages that PETG offers over PLA. This HF PETG seems more like a step backwards. If you want to print faster for functional parts, the better move is to increase your nozzle size and layer height and keep the mechanical benefits of regular PETG. I print with a .8mm nozzle and .4mm layer height at 40mm/s which doesn’t sound like much, but it really speeds things up due to the increased line sizes and layer heights. I have a small print farm made up of Ender 3’s and I do not use Bambu Labs filament, but I really hope other vendors don’t follow their lead and get rid of a filament with fantastic mechanical properties just to reduce print times. It is not a good trade off for people who print functional parts that need to be able to handle some abuse.

[@mtrezaie]

I agree. I go for PETG due to impact strength.

[@daliasprints9798]

If you need strength and want to up your speed, throw away the PETG and use real PET. It's better in all ways but needs a high temperature capable hotend (290+ for high speed, 270 baseline). No snot, no first layer adhesion problems, isotropic part strength. PETG is basically "PET modified to be easy and cheap to manufacture as filament and printable on low quality printers with PTFE lined hotends, but shit".

[@aeonjoey3d]

i print functional parts with HF and have experienced only positives, different uses cases for different folks i guess, but i'd try it first. there's also 'if it ain't broke...' too so I'm just saying

[@klaidasrunele]

Maybe you should be printing out of ABS instead if you want durability

[@daliasprints9798]

@@klaidasrunele ABS 🤮

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

I'm definitely with you in that I feel like they should keep both since each one has its strong points, but if it's a case of you have to pick one, I feel like the high flow is the better choice since it probably has a wider range of applications

[@flippy9133]

bambus HF PETG is a gamechanger, its prints so easily I also like its more matte than regular PETG.

[@chrislambe400]

The main reason for PETG instead of PLA is that you can drop it and it does not shatter easily. Bending temperature and UV are of course important for many applications but surviving a fall is pretty important. HF PETG seems pointless.

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

Unmodified PETG has about the same impact resistance as PLA. It can deform a bit so some impacts may not cause shattering, but it's about the same. And given the number of modified PLA, nowadays the average, non pure PLA performs better

[@ScytheNoire]

@@olafmarzocchi6194 LOL, I have dozens of prints that say otherwise. PLA is just not nearly as durable as PETG. Each plastic type has it's purposes, and weaken PETG just took away it's main purpose. Next people will claim PLA is as durable as ABS, ASA, or Nylon.

[@riba2233]

It is better than the old one, chill.

[@marksnethkamp8633]

​@@ScytheNoireI think you are experienceing that because PETG is more flexible. It will bend not break. Not the same as impact strength, but makes it more durable than PLA as you have experienced.

[@kilianlindlbauer8277]

​@@ScytheNoirei would recommend you to look at some data sheets once in a while. While petg usually does have improved impact resistance over pla (non plus/pro/etc), its impact resistance is still tiny compared to abs/asa and im not starting to talk about polycarbonate blends. Sure, all those need enclosures above 60c to get the best out of them, you may want to look at pctg for impact resistance and easy to achieve high levels of layer adhesion. Prints just like petg, just overall a bit hotter

[@B0A2]

There is a new profile for petg hf now. You have to press the update configuration button in the bottom left of the slicer.

[@jamesfrost4]

Daniel, a note on your overhang test models all failing: I think this is a firmware bug with the A1 mini. I started having issues with my A1 mini running the nozzle into prints above a certain height after the last firmware update. If you watch closely, you can clearly see the nozzle starts to run into the part, knocking the print loose from the bed if there isn’t a wide base for lots of adhesion. A number of other folks have reported this and so far the only workaround people have come up with is changing (in Orcaslicer) the Z-hop type setting to Normal instead of Auto, and disabling the Reduce Infill Retraction setting. This does stop the nozzle knock, but increases stringing in many cases. I know a few people have submitted this issue to Bambu Lab, but I haven’t seen any response from them other than saying that it’s just a simple bed adhesion issue or just curling or warping of the part. Doesn’t explain why it only started after the last firmware change. It would be interesting if you could bring this up with Bambu and see if you can get any answers.

[@florianmaslofski]

i just finished some PETG basic prints and started switching over the the PETG HF, and once its dry it feels the same. The one thing i do like about the HF is that it seems to stick a lot less to the nozzle, as ive had barely any boggers to deal with, which was a bigger issue before

[@st3venb]

For real?! This is one of my biggest pet peeves on my printers. Fucking boogers and damage to the silicone sock because of them.

[@eeropehkonen2370]

Great video! When they released the HF filament I suspected that it might be better suited for Bambulabs faster printspeed but the material qualities must have some drawbacks.

[@Reds3DPrinting]

Great video ModBot! Thank you for making it clear and easy to understand for anyone who doesnt want to spend the money on the new PETG right now but also wants to know whats goin on with this new HF PETG! I really hope they keep both materials, I dont see why they wouldnt as the OG seems a bit stronger. I used to only use PETG for its strength but PLA+ has been doin the job for me for quite a while now, and if Im not printing pla im usually printing something way more abrasive

[@riba2233]

It is not stronger, new hf version is better in real life mechanical tests.

[@mrrooter601]

@@riba2233 "source? my starfish"

[@xethknight]

I agree with keeping both Hf and Regular variants

[@mattgavioli6762]

a good high flow PETG is also eSun's: can be printed with full fan, stays glossy way longer than standard eSun PETG even with active cooling, has pretty comparable physical characteristics and runs really fast, like 9 mins benchy fast

[@Barbasnoo]

For my use case, PETG is simply a higher temp resistance version of PLA. So the closer they can make its printing characteristics to PLA - the better. Their high flow PETG makes sense to me, but I know for sure it won’t necessarily make sense to everyone. I agree they should have kept both HF and Basic around due to this fact.

[@scottwilloughby6422]

Should compare it to voxel's petg it claims to be high speed as well and I think it prints well

[@aaro_n]

Unfortunately the mechanical changes are pretty much a deal breaker. Plus the requirement of drying pushed me away right away. If the ams was a dryer I wouldn't care. But since it's not they should keep the basic petg also.

[@TheDark0rb]

Really should have tested using the BBL Profiles, they provide them for a reason. Comparing the profiles here - part Cooling Fan has five differences in it's profile section, including for overhangs, min print speed etc. Also nozzle temp in the HF profile is lower for both initial layer at 235 vs 255 and then it uses 245 instead of 255 for the remainder of the print.

[@moccaloto]

Excellent video. Could you maybe do some strength tests also? Petg can be a good choice for shelf brackets, and it would be a shame if Bambu reduced the strength of their petg, and shelves come crashing down all over the world 😅

[@ModBotArmy]

I dont have a great setup for this. I have looked into it many times over the years and would really like to get a test unit in or build something so Ill definitely consider it.

[@riba2233]

It has already been tested, hf version is better mechanically

[@mrrooter601]

@@riba2233 this guy has gone around to every single comment here that is critical of the HF or are questioning what BBL state on their website (20% lower layer adhesion) and is quoting a video that has a dozen different tests with a sample size of 1 or 2 each as definitive proof. 1 or 2 is fine for things like softening and deflection, but for something like layer adhesion why by nature IS inconsistent, thats just not ok. just watch any cnc kitchen video and see how much scatter can affect results. even a filament with a decent average layer adhesion, can be bad if the bottom end is weak. a print is only as strong as its weakest point.

[@riba2233]

@@mrrooter601 that same test had a pretty consistent results with two samples so it is fine, don't act smarter than you are

[@cnc-maker]

This is very strange. I’ve been writing a lot of filament reviews, and that Cat is one of the models that I have been using in my reviews. I have never had an issue with it sticking to the bed, and I never use rafts. There are only 2 differences that I can see, 1) Is that I’m using K1 Max’s with the original build plate, and you’re using various Bambu printers with various build plates. And 2) I will attempt to tune the filament if I see any issues, as it is unfair to the manufacturer to do otherwise. While reviewing filaments, especially at higher speeds, I always set the temp to the higher end of the recommend range. Usually 5-10 degrees lower than max, but sometimes ever higher than max if I can determine that the provided settings are inaccurate/wrong. To date, I have only run into 2 non-TPU filaments that can’t print at 300mm/s, 1 being a glow-in-dark filament that can’t be print using a 0.40mm nozzle on any printer, and a nylon that can only be printed at temps below the normal nylon temperature range. I am starting a new round of reviews, which I will be testing at up to 400mm/s for normal prints, as I have been able to tweak my custom PrusaSlicer profiles over the past 6 months. Anywho, for the most part I haven’t seen very much of a difference between normal filaments and high-speed filaments, other than a lower viscosity, which has pluses and minuses. A lower viscosity can make prints worse if you don’t have a significant increase in cooling. There may be additional differences with non-stock hotends, but that’s a completely different test. Best

[@ModBotArmy]

@@cnc-maker the brims was a default thing in the slicer. I wouldn’t normally use them but I just left everything as is in this case. The sticking like that was because I am experimenting with vision miner nano polymer adhesive. It sticks crazy well. I had previously applied it to the plate for testing or it all would have came off with little effort 😊.

[@KaelumYodi]

@@ModBotArmy that's cool. I watched the video again as I missed the fact that the Basic PETG has a lower recommend print speed range, which is not something that I've run into before. I think Polymaker originally said something similar about their filaments, but later changed the specs, as it just depends. The comparison specs are rather interesting, and does show that they have created their own recipes, which are quite different from one another. I'll let CNC Kitchen run his tests on those differences, as that is his arena. I've never tried Bambu filament, so if it ever comes up for review, I'll probably need to tune it. I remember the very first time I used Polymaker, I had a hell of time. Their PLA, ABS and ASA filaments do not react like those from most other manufacturers. Only their PETG was similar to that of other brands. Once I got the others tuned in, it was smooth sailing, but it was definitely frustrating trying to get everything dialed in. ABS and ASA slurries helped a lot for adhesion. BEST

[@Alex_vGrafenstein]

Are your tests available somewhere? I'm not interested in fancy videos, just an excel sheet would be great. I was very frustrated to find no comprehensive comparison of PETG filaments. It is the cheapest plastic that is suitable for many technical applications. So I started my own tests with a small rig for measuring layer adhesion and I evaluate optimal settings visually with some dedicated models (i think temp towers are one of the most overrated and wrongly used testprints). But I'm still far away from measuring other properties like impact strength and more. So it would be great to see other people's results.

[@KaelumYodi]

@@Alex_vGrafenstein I don’t have any such data, as I haven’t had a need for that level of control. You should continue to do as you are doing, as there are a lot of things that need to be factored, which only you really know for your situation. The only thing that I would add for your situation is, once you’ve decided on a specific product, you should periodically retest that product, especially if it is not a major brand. The reason being that the manufacturer may change the product chemistry w/o any notice. Many no-name brands are actually manufactured by the same company, and Polymaker produces the filament for a lot of no-name brands. BEST!

[@I_am_Just_Unlucky]

complete beginner here, bought it to print an itx case that isnt done by a manufacturer yet. for it to be a pc case, parts and exaust air could exceed 60c which is why petg (hf) was a consideration on my a1mini. i got it fresh out he bag to print something and it looked very weird... benchies looked worse then with pla. i dont have much experience with 3d printing yet but as far as beginner friendliness goes, petg hf is worse then pla which most novice 3dprinter users probably knew.... i for one cant think of why petg basic would be discontinued but higher stiffness wouldve been very welcome for what intend to do despite less strenght in every other aspect... well if i had a better experience but i stick to pla for now until i know how to configure the printer. because, i mean, this video is with stock settings and no modifications. maybe bigger nozle would help here with thicker layers and slower speed

[@soundspark]

You have the same color scheme Voron as mine.

[@Bratkartoffelauflauf]

@MyTechFun tested mechanical properties of PETG HF and it is an improvement over its basic version. It’s also easier and faster to print, so definitely a W. I am also kinda confused how so many people in the comments think that PETG is stronger than PLA… it’s not, just more heat resistant and flexible, which let you see if it’s going to break or not.

[@riba2233]

Yep 👍

[@mrrooter601]

PETG HF IS SO GOOD ITS THE BEST THING EVER I LOVE BBL now that my comment is safe this is total BS. the "test" these two are referring to had a sample size of 1 or 2 lol. and why would BBL let it skew worse. if they were going to be wrong it would be in the other direction. i guarantee bbl did tests with a sample size greater than 2.

[@Bratkartoffelauflauf]

@@mrrooter601okay, fair point. I haven’t think about it that way. I am not a Bambu Lab Fanboy or something, I just like their products because their price to performance ratio is simply great. Although you are probably right, that PETG HF has weaker mechanical properties, I like that it has a matte finish and that it’s faster to print. As I stated before, PLA still is the strongest besides of nylon or something (as BL it self writes in their information sheet) and temperature resistance. So if I want to have great mechanical properties, I stick with PLA. Easiest to print, fast and good :)

[@kushpacsmike]

question: why are they discontinuing the basic non hf version? It does print very well...

[@riba2233]

Bc they think that hf version is better in every way I guess

[@mrrooter601]

@@riba2233 why defend it in every single comment? do you work for bbl lol

[@petera7204]

I love printing with PETG. I need to try this new one

[@subseauk]

Hi, nice video and I will be checking out your others shortly. I have one question, I have an X1C and would like to carry out the flow test that you show but all those I have found online don't seem to work, ie they produce a completely uniform print from bottom to top as if the flow rate is not being adjusted. Can you tell me where you got your test model from and how you extended the flow rate range please ?? Thanks

[@condorman6293]

I think you need to slow your bridging speeds A LOT. PETG is very different than PLA/ABS and does not like being stretched when bridging.

[@TylerTroglen]

Printed great from the package, printed even better once i dried it. Its my go to for PETG printing now on my Q1 Pro

[@macdox69]

Having wateched your other videos, curious about comparison of standard nozzle with HF PETG vs E3D nozzle and standard PETG.

[@blakes8901]

the volumetric flow rate is extremely improved, to an almost comedic degree.

[@macdox69]

@@blakes8901 Yes i understand that, I have one. I meant more in trade offs in strength, look, quality etc against non HF filament with a HF nozzle. I guess that's more of a CNC Kitchen test :)

[@blakes8901]

ah, my apologies.

[@deandavies1462]

I dont actually use a bambu printer or their fillament, but I do print a product that is high use in a wood workshop enviroment and it needs to be tough and take significant knocks and dings. I have been printing my products dfor a while now with transparant blue green and red PETG and am finding it more dificult here to find a decent replacement for the transparant green I use as the seller here in the UK has gone out of business. I do find it worrysome that there is less emphasis placed on mechanical material properties over how fast it can be printed. normal PETG is used for its properties, ie. that it is not as brittle as PLA and has better layer adhesion and a higher melting point before warping. It was always slower to print for a reason, to gain the mechanical advantages. seems like a stupid move to me.

[@TheFishingHobby]

I agree 100%

[@riba2233]

Petg is as brittle (more bendy, but same poor impact strength) and has worse layer adhesion.

[@kilianlindlbauer8277]

​@@riba2233many people underestimate the strength achievable with pla. The highest tensile strength i found on a non fiber reinforced pla is 75MPa. I haven't found any petg that goes above 60. Layer adhesion barely goes above 75% of its nominal strength for any filament unless special care and equipment was used, for example abs printed in a 80c+ chamber

[@xxxxzorroxxxx]

Question can’t decide: from A1 to carbon from bambu. Which one can handle flexible filament better. That’s stopping me from deciding or should I just wait for the new one to come out?

[@rbaile508]

Elegoo has had “rapid” PETG for a while

[@otann]

I am bit confused, should manufactures speak about volumetric speed instead? Linear speed don't give much info, as you can print with different nozzle sized. Big kudos for mentioning cubic mms in your tests!

[@mrrooter601]

volumetric speed should definitely be the standard.

[@The_Traveling_Clown]

That heat plate available for Ender 3 v2? I need to replace the stock bed with something that don't need glue.

[@TheFishingHobby]

@@The_Traveling_Clown if you want something that PETG sticks really well to, try G10 FR4 Garolite sheets in 1.5mm thickness. They need to have no residual oils from you fingers on them, so I wipe mine down with glass cleaner (just the cheap blue kind in spray bottles) and then I wipe them down with a spray bottle of water with a drop of dawn dish washing liquid in it after that. PETG sticks to it great until you inevitably get oils from your fingers on it, then you have to wipe them down again. Maker’s Muse put out a video about it a while back, it works great for PETG. Prints come off easy after the bed cools down but stick really well while the bed is hot. I run my bed temp at 85°C for PETG.

[@The_Traveling_Clown]

@TheFishingHobby Thanks for the reply. I actually want a buld surface that works with most materials. Such as PLA, PTU, and PETG, ext.

[@TheFishingHobby]

@@The_Traveling_Clown I’ve never printed TPU on these sheets, but PETG and PLA stick to it very well. TPU would probably need a sacrificial coating like hairspray to allow it to be removed. It wouldn’t surprise me at all if TPU would bond too well put a light misting with hairspray would allow a separation layer. Hairspray works really well on glass too for allowing prints to stick to the glass, but I got tiered of having to clean and reapply it every couple of days. That is when I moved to the G10 build surfaces. If you can keep your fingers off it, it works flawlessly.

[@kimmotoivanen]

Dual sided PEI magnetic spring steel bed FTW 😉 Smooth side for small and smooth-bottomed PLA parts, textured for pretty much everything. At least Comgrow makes and sells those. Smooth side is delicate for nozzle crashes, so textured-only sheet is also a good option. Just have brim around small prints.

[@xethknight]

1

[@colinmsmall]

The only reason I use petg over pla is heat resistance.

[@Titan3DAZ]

I really enjoy PETG. I am curious for the HF variation, but I would rather keep all the mechanical properties of standard PETG.

[@riba2233]

This one has better mechanical properties, manufacturers data is not always correct

[@iwannaratrod]

I use our Bambu printers at work for functional research parts. We use PETG often for it's mechanical properties and chemical resistance. I will have to check the MSDS, but it looks like I will be using another brand primarily as this is a step backwards in my uses.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

BL dropping filaments is super annoying. I LIKE their filament, and it makes it easy to use in my BL printers. I'm willing to pay the extra for that convenience, but for sanity's sake please stop discontinuing filaments! They did the same with PLA Tough, halfway through a large print job.

[@MonkeyButlerLabs]

Being the printer puncher you are I would think you would be very concerned with impact strength. ;)

[@nikwoac]

Counterpoint: Bambu (and everyone else) should stop selling PETG entirely and just switch to PCTG! 😅

[@chrisbloem6639]

Elegoo makes rapid petg too doesnt it?

[@ModBotArmy]

Not sure, I have only used their Rapid PLA.

[@chrisbloem6639]

​@@ModBotArmy yeah just checked the stash, its called rapid petg up to 600ms

[@ManjaroBlack]

I hear hf petg is better than petg when using a cht style nozzle. That’s what I want to test.

[@st3venb]

Yea was wondering if those of us with higher flow nozzles like the CHT or the e3d obxidian would see better flow rates.

[@ManjaroBlack]

@@st3venb I find PETG unbearable with hf nozzles. The stringing is so bad. I gave up on PETG when I switched to CHT/obXidian

[@st3venb]

I’ve run an obxidian for over a thousand hours now and I print exclusively in petg. I haven’t had any issues. I mostly printed Hatchbox and Elegoo rapid.

[@ManjaroBlack]

@@st3venb that’s great! I’ll try those. PETG hates me I swear. No worse stringing or anything different with the obXidian? I’m using a standard CHT. I just lumped the obXidian in there from reports from others saying they have the same issues.

[@ElectroBlep]

I built a very fast 3D printer, installed a high flow hot end, then loaded up some high flow filament. The print was finished before I even sent it to the printer. 😜😂 Seriously though. When I tried HF PETG, the results were fragile. Same as your findings. Worst plastic I've ever used. It wasn't Bambu brand, but another well known one that I've heard is what the Bambu often is rebranded from. Totally made the point of printing in PETG vanish faster than printing a 1 min benchy. Feels like the whole execution of HF PETG is just to sell plastic to people who don't know what they are doing.

Vuh-ROH-noy!

[@ClaytonMacleod]

2:46 Only human. Puts label on backwards. ;)

[@sakibal9892]

Ami bhalo

[@RaySchrantz]

I've had a lot of problems with the HF PETG. I can't get it to print right at all. I get more stringing than basic PETG, more blobs and defects, and it's not as shiny and glossy, which I liked about their basic PETG. Cutting or carving any defects away leaves a cloudy scraped surface instead of a similarly glossy surface. Everything about this filament has been a downgrade in my opinion, and before you ask, yes I tuned the filament, but worse bridging and worse scratch resistance was a horrible trade off. I'm really sad because Bambu's Red Basic PETG is my favorite red filament by far and now I'll have to find a replacement.

[@riba2233]

Just get some polymaker petg ;)

[@mrrooter601]

>cloudy scraped surface instead of a similarly glossy surface. sounds similar to what happens when filament is printed above a certain volumetric speed and suddenly changes between glossy and matte (the other riba guy has replied to every comment critical of the hf petg and vehemently defending it for some reason, no idea why they are telling you to buy polymaker now...)

[@RaySchrantz]

@@mrrooter601 well either way I haven't bought playmaker in a long time. It's good, but California filament is way better and the exact amount of glossy translucently I enjoy. Guess I'll buy their red from now on. I also have a lot of Atomic PETG; it's really incredible filament, but pricey. Best to buy samples before you buy a full spool. Love their Marble and Silver PETG.

[@mrrooter601]

thanks for making this, I watched someone elses video about this a few days ago and they seemed to absolutely sh1ll it. meanwhile Im looking at the drastically worse layer adhesion and im like "are you not going to mention that?" I purchased a p1s and some bbl filament as my first printer last december, one of which was BBL petf-cf which has been absolutely fantastic for nice looking parts. the main issue being its horrible layer adhesion, especially when printing fast. guess what has a nearly identical "Layer Adhesion (Impact Strength - Z)" petg hf. are they really trying to sell something that Is 20%??? weaker (than normal petg) as useful for its mechanical properties? I am not through the whole video yet but I can see from the comments that it as at least critical. hoping for some real testing and not like the other video I watched where he printed 2 boring vases and said look! the overhangs are slightly better!

[@riba2233]

My tech fun did some proper mechanical tests and this hf version is better.

[@mrrooter601]

@@riba2233 then why does BBL have it show worse mechanical properties on their spec sheets? something just doesnt add up there. edit: just watched the mytechfun video. and lol. so he does like a dozen different tests... all with a sample size of one (or two, which he then "averages")....... thats actually unironically worse than nothing. I would not call "tests" with a sample size of two "proper".

[@riba2233]

@@mrrooter601 simple, mfg data is always off basically, nothing surpising

[@mrrooter601]

@@riba2233 lol my reply is gone ofc. this platform is a total joke. but basically a sample size of 1 or 2 is more accurate than manufacturer testing? lol. why would they let it skew worse. if they were going to be wrong it would be in the other direction. i guarantee bbl did tests with a sample size greater than 2.

[@mrrooter601]

@@riba2233 copied from the other video, but this is the gist of what was poofed by "why T" "there is just no way you are getting accurate numbers for layer adhesion with that few tests. (which is the part everyone cares about because BBL themselves say it is over 20% worse with HF, with layer adhesion already being its weakest property)" (the important point) "even if it scores higher on average, if say there is a larger scatter with hf over the original with inconsistent layer adhesion that would be a massive detriment as a part is only as strong as its weakest point." its entirely possible that the HF has a large scatter in layer adhesion with an actual sample size, perhaps BBL is representing this with the lower layer adhesion number. because thats the thing, there is always going to be scatter in layer adhesion, its one of the most inconsistent properties in 3d printing. and everyone says its "better" because you can print faster, but literally who cares, petg isnt an engineering filament people are using for real work, its a hobbyist filament with a nice finish that is also used for more durable parts, that are better outdoors, and have a bit more flex and toughness to them at the cost of some of plas peak strength and print speed. you need speed you use pla or cough up for tough pla. literally who is this for.

[@igorchyk09]

Replace your nozzle with a CHT and you will receive more than 30mm3/s even on regular PETG. On my clone of bambu P1 hotend (Twotrees sk1)I have 32-33mm3/s on regular Sunlu. And know a lot of people printing at 28mm3/s on regular Bambu hotend

[@ManishGupta-wb2wc]

HF PETG is not needed then

[@bladelaw]

I'm not sure who this is for, maybe if you want the temperature resistance of PETG but don't care about its other mechanical properties? That and speed seem to be the primary benefits of using HF PETG versus PLA, otherwise Basic PETG wins on merits IMO.

[@riba2233]

It doesn't, hf version has better mechanical properties, it has been tested

[@NanobyteOnline]

Your tests confirmed, YES hf can be printed faster. The stringing also shows that its not a drop in replacement and you need need a profile for it: Retraction, Bridging, ...

[@johnthomasjacobs]

This feels like a “Here’s PETG HF to replace our basic option but here’s a PETG HF Plus/Pro/Max variant that solves the issues of the filament for $35-$50 a spool.”

[@memsu06]

I wish they would just focus on building good hotends that can melt the filament properly at high speeds. I hate all these fast filaments they are coming out with. You're losing mechanical properties with these new filaments.

[@riba2233]

You aren't, it has been tested and this hf version has better properties than the old one (printed at same speeds ofc)

[@memsu06]

@@riba2233 Less bending strength, more stiff than regular PETG, less impact strength in Z and in XY.

[@riba2233]

@@memsu06 yeah on paper, not in real tests. it is more stiff but more impact resistant which is a great combo

[@mrrooter601]

@@memsu06 fyi this sh1ll (riba) is quoting a (single) video with a few tests done with a sample size of *1 or 2*, undried filament as well, even for the old petg. and is calling this a scientific conclusion. they have also replied to every other comment here critical of it (so have I at this point but only because I want to point out this nonsense). literally what reason does bbl have to show a layer adhesion that is somehow worse, it is literally always the case that that stuff is exaggerated. so that argument makes no sense.

[@memsu06]

@@riba2233 I'll trust the technical real paper results before I believe 1 test from some random youtuber. The main limiting factor of any fast printer is the hot end and how fast you can melt the filament. Look at the VZBot hotend and it's super long melt zone. Even with basic PETG you can print faster than a normal printer with high flow PETG. Bambu and all these other fast coreXY machines really cost cut on the hotend design. That's why I upgraded to the E3D Obxidian hotend on my P1S. My ZeroG Merc 1 build running a Rapido hotend can still print faster than my Bambu P1S because it can maintain a higher volumetric flow rate.

[@ScytheNoire]

The entire point of PETG over PLA is the durability. If the HF PETG has durability more like PLA, then what's the point of printing it in PETG? This is a horrible decision. Print speed isn't what is most important, it's the plastic having the right properties for the object. Bambu seems to care more about marketing than proper 3D printing.

[@riba2233]

Why do you think it has lower durability? Because it doesn't

[@mrrooter601]

@@riba2233 how much do they pay you to do this? every. single. critical. comment.

[@jebus182]

Bambu HF Petg sucks, its dribbles out the nozzle and causes at least 50% of prints to fail on the first layer. This is on top of their QC on spools being shockingly bad. Personally im sticking to prusament and extrudr for my petg.

[@riba2233]

Pure bs but ok.

[@mrrooter601]

@@riba2233 is defending it in every. single. critical. comment.

[@fursphere2]

You lost me at "I really wish Bambu Labs would be keeping regular PETG" ... acting like they're the only vendor in town that sells PETG.

[@ModBotArmy]

Of course there’s other options. The point was for those that have been using their filaments, even exclusively. From a business standpoint swapping filament vendors is not ideal. Especially when the customer is used to specific colors and performance. I meant it for those that this is going to be a pain for.