C2 C3 Corvette Coil Spring Installation Easy and Safe

[@n2h2o2]

Great video! I just removed my springs and control arms using your method. But I used 5/8" stainless steel threaded rod, nuts and washers. But I used a wheel puller to mount to the lower arm and bolted it to the shock mount... Worked perfectly for removing the springs and will be just as easy to install the new ones. BTW it took me 45 minutes to remove the passenger side upper, lower control arms, spindle and springs. SAFELY!

[@playzwithcars562]

That is awesome! Great job!

[@bobbarnes3328]

Hey Plaze, I found your video very informative. I completed the removal of my small block 65 vette springs and method worked well and SAFE. Going to install control arms tomorrow. Thank you! Bob

[@bobbydvett1950]

Thanks so much your idea worked perfectly on a 66 big block, springs came off without the danger!!

[@bradsmith9189]

Removed my existing springs and installed a new set using this method. Worked perfectly. Thanks very much👍

[@playzwithcars562]

Glad it worked out for you! Good luck on your projects!

[@raymondbrazel9903]

I have to comment on your post. I have been struggling for days trying to get my 76 Corvette front springs installed. After watching your video I had both installed in a few hours. I used a much thinner rod 13mm because that was all I could get in my small town. So thank you very much for your knowledge.

[@playzwithcars562]

Hi Always glad to help. If you find this useful, please subscribe.

[@morleyarnold2752]

Did you completely dismantle the entire vehicle to expose the bare frame like this asshat did? Beware when a youtube video uses the words "quick", "safe" and/or "easy".

[@jimcogil608]

I am a few days out from reinstalling the springs in my "67. Thanks so much for sharing this procedure!

[@playzwithcars562]

Always glad to help! If you have questions, let me know.

[@ThomasSutcliffe-ew7cg]

For 67's and other C2's there is a small hole in the upper a-arm and the end of the spring coil MUST be within 3/8" of that hole. It doesn't matter were the bottom end of coil sits.

[@GaryJaynes]

Great how to. I have used it several times since. Would like to see how you did the rear spring.

[@Pab-B]

Great info, thank you! I'm working on my 79 T/A and this will be much better than the chain method I've seen (for removal). Also - Ratcheting Box Wrench! ;-)

[@joehovanec1985]

Good idea with the threaded rod. Myself, I'd probably use 3/4" threaded rod. You can take a socket that fits the nut, cut it in half or so, and weld a piece of tubing to it to fit over rod. Basically, make long socket and use ratchet to pull parts together. Nice to see the fine job you're doing on that chassis.

[@playzwithcars562]

Joe, I need to look again, but I do not think a 3/4" threaded rod will fit through the upper frame shock mounting hole. A means to use a ratchet would definitely speed things up. Thanks for watching and your inputs!

[@bobbyhawks2515]

Joe i was thinking the same thing, just think how fast an impact wrench would be .

[@crawford323]

What if a nut was welded flush on the rod with the lower spanned piece ( lower shock mount block ) not threaded but drilled larger than the diameter of the threaded rod. And while holding the wrench on a nut on the top control arm an impact wench could spin the rod from the bottom.

[@dukeallen432]

Why not use power tool? Heat. Not taking your time watching what’s happening, listening for trouble. Plus a good workout for your arms/hands.

[@nemsiovega558]

Very professional thank from Puerto Rico

[@nelsonkowal9440]

Thank you for the great video. I am currently installing the coils springs on my 66 roadster. I like the idea of suspending the whole control arm and then mounting the control arm when you get close to installing the ball joint stud. Do you have a video installing the rear leaf spring? I would like to see your technique on that installation. Thanks Again.

[@playzwithcars562]

Glad you found value in it. I will be doing a rear spring video in the future. Good luck with your 66!

[@nelsonkowal9440]

A rear spring installation video would be of great value to me. Looking forward to it. Thanks again for the front spring installation video.

[@adventures223]

Great idea works very well can you do this in a chevy s10 with the body on the frame awesome idea great looking chassis could you send me a parts list so i can make this tool would love to see the vette when the project is finished thanks for posting

[@playzwithcars562]

The brackets and concept is geared around the C2/C3 chassis. I don't know what the shock mounts and such look like on an S10, so I'd say no, this will not work as designed for an S10. Thanks for watching.

[@adventures223]

@@playzwithcars562 ok thanks for responding

[@jeffstieren4474]

This is great with the body off and no accessories in the way.

[@waltjones7485]

Pretty good, it's a lot harder to do when you don't have the weight of the motor and body to help jack it in place. looks safer....Walt

[@brianmcintyre7404]

Thanks. A very useful video. I am curious as to what you coated your springs and natural finish suspension parts with.

[@playzwithcars562]

What I have been doing on my resoration is soaking the components in Evaporust, and if they are not pitted, using a satin clearcoat, or lately I've been using RPM (Rust Preventative Magic). It is a waxy substance that you heat the part up with a heat gun and apply this with a paint brush. It sounds weird but this stuff works. If the part is pitted and you really do not have a consistent surface, then I revert to the cast iron/cast blast paint. Hope this helps!

[@gordonhrichards]

A ratcheting swivel box end wrench is your friend.

[@gtuttle4]

Great idea!

[@wearemotorhead8788]

How cool!

[@joeldavis2986]

Could you modify that tool by welding the hex nut on the all thread rod, maybe go up to 3/4 inch dia. rod. Then use a cordless impact wrench to screw the rod into the lower mount thus saving all the wrenching work?

[@playzwithcars562]

You probably could. You'd probably need to have your car/frame raised higher to clear the rod sticking down below the lower a arm this way during tightening.

[@davidwike4522]

Another way is weld a hollow tube to the nut on top and another nut welded to the second top nut this nut is just to turn the first nut , so this way you have lots of room to turn the wrench a full 360 degrees

[@crawford323]

I tend to ask questions as they come to mind. This may have been answered. Can this be done with the body attached and engine installed?

[@playzwithcars562]

It can be done with the body attached. I suggest cutting down the threaded rod some, so it doesn't stick up so far into the engine compartment.

[@merylgood4703]

What kind of threaded Rod is it, fantastic way of doing it ! I’m thinking the Rod has to be pretty heavy duty,thanks

[@playzwithcars562]

If you look at the video description, I put information on what kind of rod and where to buy. For the sake of safety, you don't want to use run of the mill box store threaded rod. You want something that is hardened and has higher strength.

[@thornbill1053]

COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME TORQUE SPECS FOR LOWER A ARM BOLTS .THANK YOU

[@fabiopunk1661]

interesting alternative way to install the spring.I guess the method can be used also to safely remove the old spring. Thanks for including the drawing of the tool. just a question: do the bushings on the A-arms need to be press fit, or they can be just inserted by hand? You seem to do so. Thanks

[@playzwithcars562]

Stock A-Arm bushings are rubber bonded to an outer steel shell and an inner steel shell. These need to be pressed into the A-Arms. You need to support the ears from the inside when installing the A-Arm bushings or the ears that hold the bushings will deflect and you'll have issues getting the bushings installed. Also, you need to install the shaft before installing the bushings. If you go with polyurethane bushings (not original), there is no need to press these in. They are a slip fit. Hope this helps you!

[@fabiopunk1661]

@@playzwithcars562 yes it does thank you! I asked because on my 75 C3 I found one front upper bushing "extruded" out - the bolt and washer holding it were totally loose and the fan shroud just prevent them to fall off! It was very difficult to push in the new bushing - without major disassembly of the A arm.

[@dkevvv]

I have heard many issues with new springs front and back, on C3's. How can you be sure the ride height isn't going to be to high after installing new springs?

[@dukeallen432]

Don’t buy new springs. Use original.

[@narcisoveloz2102]

The coil ends look like the same does it matter which end goes up or down please let me know?

[@playzwithcars562]

The tighter spaced coils go up into the well on the frame. Another way of saying this, the tighter spaced coils face upward.

[@davidc.3608]

Nice hat!!!!!

[@sqr2024]

Is that an engineered solution ?

[@playzwithcars562]

A medium strength 5/8" steel rod had an ultimate strength of 120,000 psi. The area of a 5/8" rod is .31 square inches, for an ultimate strength of 37,200 pounds. Assuming a 550 lb spring rate, and the spring compresses 4" during installation, that corresponds to a load of 2,200 pounds during compression. This yields a factor of safety of 16.9

[@nelsonkowal9440]

How can I get in touch with you? Would like some advise on my mid year spring assembly.

[@playzwithcars562]

Nelson. It is probably best to contact me at [e-mail] That is the email address tied to my KZbin items.

[@nemsiovega558]

Very professional thank From Puerto Rico

[@playzwithcars562]

Great. Always glad to help!