This is great with the body off and no accessories in the way.

Thanks for the video - you’re the only guy to mention the bolt thread o-rings and your new assembly came with the sock/strainer oriented straight front / rear. Mine came out sort of 45 deg off of front/rear as did those in other videos. The ‘84 FSM sort of shows it front/rear which would align with the plastic tray in the center of the tank. Someone online said a 90’s FSM showed front/rear.

Where can I get the repair part for the horn contact?

You really don’t explain it very good heat up distilled water what do you do with the gray fasfate

don't need a new gear, replace the pellets you can make them, gear will last another 20 years

For 67's and other C2's there is a small hole in the upper a-arm and the end of the spring coil MUST be within 3/8" of that hole. It doesn't matter were the bottom end of coil sits.

Where can I find an X Brace for my 92?

So I just used this technique with a heat gun to remove the bonding strips for my lower front valence on my 72 C3. Wow! It works beautifully! Used a heat gun and putting knife. Took me about 45 minutes but got the valence off without cutting or chiseling. Just take your time and apply heat, remove the edges at the bonding strip, continue applying heat, wedging the putty knife under the bonding strip, etc.

nice demonstration

I looked up a video fully expecting to take apart the interior to get to it! I didn't know it was right there.

This is great. if you wanted to do a black chromate conversion to turn the zinc black do you have to polish prior to conversion

Hey Plaze, I found your video very informative. I completed the removal of my small block 65 vette springs and method worked well and SAFE. Going to install control arms tomorrow. Thank you! Bob

How cool!

there are 4 more bolt locations

Excellent video! Simple solution. Thank you 🙌🏼

The convertible x-brace works great. Noticeably changes the stiffness of the car and virtually eliminates most noises that are common (especially on the targa top).

Been thinking about stenciling my 69 frame but wonder if you’d even be able to see it once all back together.

I have already purchased the new wiring harness now where can I buy the 3d piece you created for the C4?

Is a Quartz Clock a deduct during regular Op's or a PV function? r

Picked up a couple tid bits. Thank You

What size are the two bolts on the wheel hub that secure this piece?

I just acquired an X brace but it’s missing the center plate, will it still work? Or would it need reinforcement? Can it be made and how?

Great info, thank you! I'm working on my 79 T/A and this will be much better than the chain method I've seen (for removal). Also - Ratcheting Box Wrench! ;-)

I tend to ask questions as they come to mind. This may have been answered. Can this be done with the body attached and engine installed?

Thanks for all those tricks. I'm in the middle of a Muncie rebuild right now. I got my rebuild kit from Paul also. That's great advice about not pressing out the reverse idler gear bushings. Those countershaft needle bearings are a pain. I put my counter shaft in the freezer to help those needle bearings stick after they are installed. I like your undersized needle bearing chase idea. I love the idea of using the anaerobic sealer on the countershaft thrust washers. I'm going to try that. Great tips. Thanks.

Great video! I just removed my springs and control arms using your method. But I used 5/8" stainless steel threaded rod, nuts and washers. But I used a wheel puller to mount to the lower arm and bolted it to the shock mount... Worked perfectly for removing the springs and will be just as easy to install the new ones. BTW it took me 45 minutes to remove the passenger side upper, lower control arms, spindle and springs. SAFELY!

Americans have a habit of calling the PARKING brake, an EMERGENCY brake.

In the very book you cited, McLellan explains that the X brace was added to the convertibles to fix a localized vibration in the seats and floor pan. Page 146, second paragraph. Nowhere does he say anything about it stiffening the chassis. And the reason is because it does not stiffen the chassis. They did other things for that, as explained in the same paragraph. This piece is worthless for addressing the torsional flex these cars suffer and I'm afraid you've wasted your time, money, and effort putting it in your car. Moreover, this video is perpetuating this myth among all the unwitting who come here to watch it. Your intentions are good but your intel is bad. Anyone who is not convinced, take this assembly or any one like it and grab it by two ends while sticking the other two under something heavy and then see how much you can twist the thing with just the force of your puny human arms. Now imagine what a thousand ft-lbs like a car chassis experiences would do.

Much better design for replacing the fuel pump than on my 86 Camaro. Not sure what GM was thinking back then.😣😣😣😣😣

Great how to. I have used it several times since. Would like to see how you did the rear spring.

SUPER HELPFUL!!! Are the STLs available online by chance? Thank you for the video! There aren't many going over this problem with the C4s. When removing the airbag, we found that the old switch and contacts were entirely destroyed.

Thanks for the video. That's a very clean looking C4. I'm going to have to pull the fuel pump on my 95, I've got an internal fuel leak somewhere and it doesn't seem to be from injectors or FPR

Great video. Clear and to the point. Thumbs up!

Thanks for doing this video. It helps a lot. Currently have a 1966 corvette with the splash shield in the left rear fender where the power antenna bracket attaches.) The splash panel is broken in half right below the antenna bracket. I believe this splash shield was just bonded to the left fender and body pan without a bonding strip. Do you have any recommendations for how to remove this splash shield? I do not want to damage the exterior paint on the fender. Was thinking of just cutting it out and then sending it flush to the fender and body pan? Was wondering what your opinion is. Again thank you.

Damn proud that you're not a purist and enjoy your vette, and don't mind improving it

very nice work

Great idea!

In the 1986 where is the horn fuse ?

Great video thank you

For $11 you've convinced me to buy a tube for the shop and give it a try. I'm a big fan of JB Weld.

Superglue sets instantly if you shake baking powder on it.

I was using Bondic a few years ago. Expensive. Then saw other brands. Now this! Love it

thanks. I'm gonna get some of that today. JP Weld products are great and they work!

Hi! Do you still have the stl of this part or any spare ones available?

Another question, I noticed the stock fuel pump assembly has a pulsator and the new Delphi unit has the rubber hose. Did you notice any difference? I heard the pulsator was to prevent surges and sound dampening. I ordered this Delphi unit but was considering using a pulsator if it’s needed?

Great video. I was first found to order the AC Delco professional sender and a Delphi fuel pump and it was gonna come out to 200. This Delphi one you used is 296. I like the idea of all of it coming assembled in a box. I read some reviews on it it and some said there was rust on the next filler? Did you come across any quality issues with your new pump? I thought about just changing my fuel pump and keeping the sender but worried if the sender will crap out later and I have to replace it again.

We're do you buy this part ?

I'm having a hard time tracking white distilled vinegar however I'm able to find regulator 5% white vinegar, will that be fine?

Hi I own a 1996 C4, how is your test drive compare with or without this bracing?

I don’t know what the hell my problem is but I’ve followed your instructions and others on UT and all I get is parts covered with a small amount of black ???? Something on it that I have to buff off. Also after plating I dip them in distilled water and after a day or two I have rust on the surface! WTH ?