Cable Driven Tachometer Repair John Deere 855

[@stronglieutenant]

Great stuff. I had a tractor fiasco today myself. 3pt hitch wont lift, caused a seperate issue by trying to cut corner. Another in a line of life lessons learned

[@EdOfTheNorth]

Hi Brandon. Life lessons can be hard to accept without losing our cool, but we rarely forget them. :-/ Always good to hear from ya.

[@kencourtright3636]

Great trouble shooting job Ed !! My OLD "RED" ones don't have tachometers on them but my KABOTA does. Thanks for info. Ed. Ken

[@EdOfTheNorth]

Ken Courtright Hi Ken. Thanks for tuning in.

[@Hot-Springs-MLK-Expressway]

I think the tach gauge on my Deere 755 is good but the cable seems to be bad. I was able to remove cable from the tach but can't reach the other end attached to engine. The radiator shroud is in the way. How do you reach it?

[@EdOfTheNorth]

McDill2 You should be able to reach it by simply removing the side panel of the engine compartment. I own an 855 though and your 755 may have a different placement than mine. If all else fails, simply remove the hood and the radiator shroud. It is added work but sometimes it is the only way to success. Before I proceeded however, I'd just take the cable off the tach and start up the engine. If the cable spins but seems to jump, perhaps just some 10w30 oil poured down the cable will do the trick to smooth it out. If it doesn't spin, then it is teardown time to replace it or the drive gear on the engine.

[@michaelc5977]

That was a great help! Thank you

[@EdOfTheNorth]

Glad to have helped.

[@edspencer7121]

Glad I came across this video. I'm working on a tach for a 3010 John deer. The nut on mine is completely loose. Being how I rebuilt the tractor short of paint, I took the liberty to zero back the hour meter. Just so you know, I found the needle threads onto the shaft. You just hold the movement that's activated by the fly magnet. I've seen you comment on other channels, Edofthenorth, are you from Minnesota way?

[@EdOfTheNorth]

I'm in Northern Ontario, Temiskaming District of the James Bay Frontier. The needle screws onto the shaft. Good information. Thanks.

[@Hot-Springs-MLK-Expressway]

Thanks for the reply! I was able to take off the alternator & could reach the tach cable much easier. I found the inner cable to broken in two right near the engine so I have ordered a new one & hope to get it going again.

[@alphawhiskey5720]

Hi. If youre still monitoring this vid. I have a question. How do you get the tach out of the insturment panel? My 955 also has a cab on it so that looks like it complicates things. thx

[@EdOfTheNorth]

Yes, a cab will complicate things because you have to pull the dash to access the tach.

[@alphawhiskey5720]

@@EdOfTheNorth Ok ya figured that; how do you pull the dash away far enough to get at the tach? How do you get the park brake lever knob and the throttle and pto knob off? Thx for your help

[@EdOfTheNorth]

@@alphawhiskey5720 Remove the entire top panel and the side panels. The bolt heads are visible and the nuts are usually on the other end of the bolts. Only then can you remove the front panel although I don't know why you'd want to do that as the tach is readily removable without removing anything else. The red knobs unscrew off the levers on my 855 and the front panel then is unbolted and removed out over the levers if you want to take everything apart just to have a look see. You can download a parts identification and location sheet on any part of the tractor from the Internet and that will give you a good idea of what you face before you tear into it. It is a bitch to find exactly the part sheets you need though. Me, I just tear into things and take everything apart that will come apart and remember where all the shit came from to put it back together. The best tip I can give you is to take the dash side panels off first. Then you can see all of the attachments for the rest of the stuff.

[@alphawhiskey5720]

Yes sir, I've removed all the side panels; still can't get my hand in there. On my 955 the fuel tank sits in front of the panel blocking access to it so I think i have to get that out to gain the access I need. I didn't really want to do that as I don't like cracking open a diesel fuel system. Oh; greetings from New Brunswick. Nice to talk to another Canukle head. Thx again.

[@EdOfTheNorth]

@@alphawhiskey5720 I would not be too worried about removing the fuel tank. I've had mine out a couple of times over the years but mine is in front of the engine, not behind as you say your 955 is. Mine is an 855 from 1989. Mine self primes so no concerns about air or anything like that. It sounds like the tank has got to go to get at your dash and the tachometer. So if the tach is what you want out, you are just going to have to bite the bullet and remove everything which has to be removed to gain access. If you have a camera, just take video or pictures of what stuff looks like prior to disassembly. It makes it easier to see and remember how it goes back together. Greetings from Ontario.

[@RodderFiles]

pretty Kool fix

[@EdOfTheNorth]

Thanks Bro. It took a bit of tinkering to discover the secret but now the tach works properly again and it cost me nothing but a little time to fix it.

[@dakotabeharry8874]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I wonder if my aviation tach for my airboat is similar in design. It has all the same functions and problem.

[@EdOfTheNorth]

+dakota beharry More than likely very similar. Thanks for commenting and God bless.

[@brianhoyer2232]

Ed, My tach cable got caught in the front 4WD driveshaft and cut it in half. Looked to me that getting at the back of the tach could be difficult. Any tips or suggestions on how to get the tach out? Thanks. I have the 855.

[@EdOfTheNorth]

Brian Hoyer 1/4 inch drive socket with a swivel joint and an extension works well but you don't need to remove the tach just to change out the cable drive. It unscrews from the back of the tach and from the gear mounted on the engine. A new cable is about 40 U.S.D.. Thanks for watching.

[@chrisradla]

dear Sir: you fixed the needle movement, but you broke it by opening top retainer the way you did. How are you going to reassemble it to be water tight? Thank you for showing the insides

[@EdOfTheNorth]

Thanks for watching. I put it back together exactly the same way I took it apart, including the rubber O-ring which makes it water tight again. It only comes apart one way and that's the way I took it apart. It's off a John Deere tractor. It is not meant to be serviced but replaced. It worked fine for quite some time as this video is from 2014 but then the cable wore out and I just left it broken. After running the same tractor for 30 years, I know what the rpm's are just from the sound of the engine.

[@mky9314]

Thanks, ill be giving that a try!

[@EdOfTheNorth]

The amount you tighten the collar is critical. Not too tight, just enough as stop the magnet from wobbling - nothing more.

[@Milogarage]

that's gonna help someone somewhere someday,, good stuff

[@EdOfTheNorth]

Thanks Milo. Not my regular posting but as you say, perhaps the information will help someone someday. I searched all over the net to try to find a video on how to fix a gear driven tach and found nothing. So after taking mine apart and finding the problem and the cure, Wendy said it would be the right thing to do to just explain the fix and post it, so the information would be available.

[@garettstahl]

My 655 Johne Deere looks the same. Tack and hour meter stoped working. I tor it down without watching any instructions and found tgat same thing very loose. I came on here to try and find out how its supposed to look in there and your video is perfect. Thanks. Now I need to go tighten it and put it back together. Im curious if both the tac and hour meter will now function after this repair

[@EdOfTheNorth]

Good luck. I recommend just a drop of glue on the adjustment nut once dialed in.

[@MrBigredf250]

Thanks, have a 755 with tach not working, $170 for new.

[@EdOfTheNorth]

After adjustment a dab of locktight will aid in the longevity of the repair.