Calibrating Z-Offset With A BLTouch Bed Levelling Probe

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Z-Offset Instructions:
1. Home 3D printer
2. M851 Z0 - Reset Z0Offset
3. M500 - Store setting to eeprom
4. M501 - Set active parameters
5. M503 - Display Active Parameters
6. G28 Z - Home Z Axis
7. G1 F60 Z0 - Move nozzle to true 0 offset
8. M211 S0 - Switch off soft endstops
9. Move nozzle towards bed slowly until the paper can barely move
10. Take note of the Z on the printer display (take that number and add the measurment of the calibration sheet or device used)
11. M851 Z X.XX (X.XX being your z offset achieved)
12. M211 S1 - Enable Soft Endstops
13. M500 - Save settings to Eeprom
14. M501 - Set Active Parameters
15. M503 - display current settings
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[@MrGibbsUK]

I come back to this video at least once every 3-4 months as I forget haha

[@3DMakerNoob]

Little secret: I do that too 🤣

[@jsprechs7847]

I'm an engineer and work in the industry. I've been using this video for close to 4 years. If this ever goes away, I'll be SOL 😅 thank you so much.

[@brickshitter8015]

I know it's been years since you posted this, but I really love this video. I find myself coming back to it periodically when I have to recalibrate my printers. Thank you for not only taking the time to make this video, not just for explaining each step so we're not blindly following instructions, but for making it entirely generalized: anyone with a BLTouch and a Marlin printer can make use of this and it's wonderful. 10/10.

[@C4O4L2vk]

BEST explanation ever! Easy to understand step by step. If you dont have a display, as is my case, and you need to know the difference value of your Z offset, whe you press in the pronterface interface to lower the Z axis, write down how many times you click on It (10mm, 1mm or 0.1mm) and there you have your offset

[@gabrielprau]

2024 and you still help people who are starting out in 3D printing. thx a lot

[@maxmairena6021]

OMG man you are a the savior of the nozzle printer crasher. I just follow every step of your video and my printer is finally printing correctly and the nozzle is not crashing in to the bed. Thank you so much for helping us with your videos! 🙏🏼✌️

[@Serene-Scream]

I just wanted to take a moment to thank you. I'm still pretty new to 3D printing and recently purchased a second printer with a larger print surface. I got a BLTouch for it to help with bed leveling and your video is the first I've found that was actually useful as far as how to go about calibrating it.

[@livinginOrwells1984]

Amen on that Craig...ender 6 I bet lol

[@SereneScream]

@@livinginOrwells1984 actually it was a CR-10v2 and since a CR-10v3 as well.

[@fredphilip822]

For days I was trying to get the proper z offset on my Ender 3 following several different instructions from the web. nothing worked. Finally, with your instructions, I was able to set it properly and the prints are fine now. Three thumbs up for you. The only caveat I was encountering was, my Pronterface (Linux) didn't work. It didn't get any feedback from the printer. I used than octoprint and it was working fine. Hallellujah.

[@mikezets]

After days of unsuccessful attempts to get my BLTouch to work, YOU finally got me through it with my sanity intact. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!

[@jenniferguymon7569]

This video was a lifesaver for me and my CR-10 Max. It's built so much differently than the other CR models, none of the generic hot ends work quite right, so you have to follow your instructions here as well as change the location of both the BL touch and the mounting position of the hot end. Thank you!!!!

[@fengsight]

Great video. If anyone else is coming back to this guide for a refresh of the commands, here's the step by step. Calibrating Z-Axis 1) Home your Z axis 2) M851 Z0 // Reset Z offset to 0 3) M500 // Save to EEPROM 4) M501 // Set EEPROM 5) G28 Z // Home Z only 6) G1 F60 Z0 // Move to Z = 0 7) M211 S0 // Soft endstops off 8) Paper technique with z change to figure out correct Z0. M114 to get current pos 9) M851 Z [current Z position including - if it exists] // Set z offset 10) M211 S1 // Softenstops back on 11) M500 12) M501

[@mizzymankannon4469]

I was just going to type these down for the little cheat sheet I'm making but here it is. Thank you!

[@ewaynetm9261]

HEY MAN MY NOZZLE DOESN GET CLOSE TO BED AFTER DOING YOUR STEPS, EVERYTIME I DO HOME OR START A PRINT IT HOVERS OVER THE AIR ABOUT 2MM PLEASE HELP I HAVE CR10 S5

[@Franx1122]

@@ewaynetm9261 mine too i have a ender 3 pro

[@ewaynetm9261]

@@Franx1122 hey I was able to fix mines with pronterface

[@ewaynetm9261]

I followed this guide multiple times untill it worked now my printer is printing like a pro. Good luck

[@rachnaram8722]

you saved me! spent hours and days troubleshooting until I felt I was going mad! This has fixed everything and now no glue needed at all!

[@iamkaioken]

Oh man, just got my bltouch and z offset dialed...WOW. THIS IS THE BEST FIRST LAYER EVER....

[@brendan1495]

Been messing around for hours trying to get this right, followed your directions and had it working in 5 mins, thanks for the brilliant tutorial

[@rippengedoengel]

Propably one of the best videos for Z-offset, if not the best. Thank you so very much

[@billbarndt741]

I can't thank you enough for posting this! I have been out of commission (unable to print) for a week already. I was getting very close to removing the BL Touch and just going back to leveling the bed manually. THANK YOU!!!

[@SheepLPMC]

I struggled witj my sensor an literally spent around 7-10hours to make this damn thing work. Finally your video did the job! Thank you!

[@ragnaroket]

This is the sole guide that I could wrap my head around and one that I find myself coming back to time after time when I need to calibrate my offset. Thank you so much for this!

[@Bexxy]

Thanks so much for this, it helped me resolve the issues I was having. Nozzle was crashing into my bed because it had an incorrect Z Offset of -6.60mm! I had no idea this setting was in eprom on my CR10S Pro. Thanks

[@Spooqy.]

Andy Bexx how’s it been since? I’m having the same exact problem with my cr10s pro.

[@hpynoodle]

I just want to reiterate how helpful this video is. I've used it 4 times now. I was ready to throw my Ender 5 Plus out the window until I found your video. Thank you so much for creating the video and making it easy to follow. :)

[@Anarasha]

Dude I owe you a beer. This is amazing, I used to spend so long trying to find the right offset

[@NickMartinez]

Same man. Two weeks I struggled. This guy is a God.

[@discoverychristiancenter-p8351]

Thanks!you are a 3d printer GodSend! Fixed my auto leveler in minutes thanks to you.

[@dleivam]

Thanks man.. I installed a bltouch on my ender 3 and I couldn't set the z offset correctly after several attempts but thanks to your video now I can print correctly.

[@scottwilliams8158]

After 3 days reading, watching and researching I was ready to remove the BLTouch from my E3pro when I stumbled upon this video, I'm still a noob. Followed to the letter I manage to get my E3pro (V4.2.7 and BLTouch v3.1 running the latest Marlin firmware) to actually print again albeit i had to adjust my z offset on the printer itself afterwards by 0.7 Absolutely awesome, thank you 👌🏻

[@ClintHart]

Perfect! Thank you. I have used this several times on many printers. Most recently with the Ender 5 Plus that I installed the new silent board on.

[@TYGAMatt]

I've kept threatening myself to use this guide, and just did so with my CR-10 Max. Please take a bow Sir. Fantastic. Very easy to follow and superb results.

[@marekparnell3971]

Many thanks for this very clear and concise video. You saved me a lot of headaches as I had been messing around with the Z offset for days after I installed a new V4.2.7 mainboard on my Ender 3 Pro (with BLTouch) and I was getting nowhere fast. For those with the same printer as mine (and with the V4.2.7 mainboard), for some reason the display does not show the Z offset but you can use the M114 command line in Pronterface to get the Z offset value.

[@thorstenengel5912]

This video is great. Had nothing but problems with my Ender3 and the BLTouch. After following your instructions I have a perfect first layer all around the bed. Thanks a lot!

[@jbrondos]

This was a "lifesaver." Thanks so much! I am regaining my sanity.

[@supawiz6991]

Got my first printer (Ender 3 pro) Back in October. Found this video when I added the Bltouch a month later and have used it multiple times since, recommended it to others and have added it to my 3D Printing playlist. Thanks for the awesome tutorial!

[@jim.c6780]

thanks for the Z offset instructions I did not know how to turn off soft end stops great video thanks Joe keep up the good work.

[@3DMakerNoob]

+jim. c you’re welcome buddy :)

[@Fuddel93]

Best video on that topic I could find! Thank you for this easy and quick tutorial. I struggled to get my new Ender 5 plus to work since the z Offset was all over the place. Now after resetting the z-offset I can print perfectly via octoprint.

[@liorsound]

Thanks, but don't forget add right G-codein cura G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 G29 G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 E3 F600 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} M106 ;fan on M117 Printing... thanks to Natan Kozerev

[@michaelm.wiseman282]

If you set it in the EEPROM I don't think you need to add any code.

[@moniqueisaac9391]

I have watched countless videos over the past week and none of them help. This was an awesome explanation even though it was over 4 years ago. I never leave comments but I felt inclined to give you many a thanks!!!

[@evghenix]

The thickness of the measuring device (paper) is 0.1 as author said but in the video author added just 0.01 (2.49 + 0.01 = 2.50)

[@quinxx12]

yea I'm also confused. so the actual offset should have been -2.59?

[@PaganWizard]

I think he just misspoke, meaning to say .01, kinda like he misspoke again at 5:23 when he said "click on homo" when he meant to say home.

[@miktoyou]

@@PaganWizard You might have thought he mispoke, but you misheard, sounded like he said "home all"

[@nicholasblumling2117]

@@PaganWizard this is incorrect because 0.1mm is indeed 0.00393 in. which is the equivalent thickness of a piece of paper, so no, still confusing

[@mattyoutube6454]

@@nicholasblumling2117 this is driving me nuts - the most important part, and it's explained incorrectly, lol

[@johnfrankforther8162]

Something went south on my E5 to where the nozzle was getting buried into the bed when printing. I went through your procedure and got two different readings. I went with the second reading for the offset and now things are running well again. Thank you!!!

[@leeroybaggins9561]

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! someone that finally dumbed it down to an understandable level!

[@robertavery8897]

Well .... went through the process on my CR10S Pro. Your setup is right on and it works. Just one problem with a printer like mine. The setup on the screen does the same thing. It will override the setup you recommend and re-establish a new set point. So ... I really appreciate you taking the time to present this ... it’ll definitely work out on the printer I’m building. Worth learning this. Thanks.

[@MarinusMakesStuff]

This video is super. I always forget the sequence and have redone this about twenty times now on a few of my 3D printers. Thanks so much for your efforts :)

[@Hybrid089]

This worked perfectly.. just got my Ender 3v2 working with the BLTouch with this guide! I’m a programmer and was pulling my hair out trying to fix the code for the BLTouch firmware. Since I couldn’t find the bugs I resorted to direct connection and these commands fixed the zero. I’m going to continue to work on the z-offset tool so that it can all be done on the printer but this is a perfect fix till then.

[@gregsteele8306]

Worked perfectly. Thank you for this tutorial. You saved me a ton of frustration!

[@willyorbs2317]

I don't know who you are, but you just saved my family from a terrible mood I was in for 4 days trying to install the bastard probe. You are an angel sent from heaven and I (and my family if they gave a shit about any of this) love you

[@3DMakerNoob]

Haha, glad I could help :)

[@RichardBronosky]

This is BY FAR the best Z Probe Offset video in existence. Thank you so much for doing this! The only critique I could make is that I wish you had shown how to do everything with the pronterface serial/CLI interface. It's pretty easy to do if you use `G91` to switch to relative position/motion mode, and use `G0 Z-0.1` repetitively to close the gap. Then use `G90` to switch back to absolute position/motion mode. But as is, this video can serve as a "model/manufacturer independent, all pronterface, no LCD/TFT/Dial/Touch" method for everyone. And for that, I thank you. (--Daniel Tosh) ☮❤🌈🧘🏽🕉☸☯

[@chetking1116]

I agree. I always come back to this video every once and readjust my z offset on my E5.

[@meltonpieman959]

Joe. I have just realized that I had been using your method of setting up the Z offset for at least a year before I found you again for ideaMaker (and subscribed). Have just accessed the method again to reset Z for my Micro Swiss hot end and direct drive - off to do a fine tuning calibration print and live Z offset tuning next. Thanks for everything you produce. I hope that you are keeping safe from the Covid 19 spike there. David

[@ModBotArmy]

This video has come in handy so many times. Great job :)

[@rizzocow]

Thanks for this. Super easy and took less than 5 mins watching this video to not only set the Z-offset correctly but understand the how's and the why's. Perfect for this noob to 3d printing.

[@drinklifeup]

Just so everyone is aware, a piece of paper is more like .1mm. You said it right "zero point one millimeters" but you added .01mm to your z-offset.

[@JacksterTV]

Noticed that aswell... common mistake. Otherwise great concise and clear video. I prefer to have the machine set to the paper thickness and substract it in my start g-code keeps the nozzle from damaging on glass beds.

[@acestu]

Me Too, so it should be 2.49 + .1 = 2.59 right ?

[@drinklifeup]

@@acestu Yeah whatever your z-offset is add .1mm

[@drinklifeup]

@Johnno9999 I just responded to this 3 months ago when I watched the video. I'm sure the author has moved on since then. Otherwise I found the video to be exactly what I needed and very informative.

[@kornboy8262]

@@acestu So if it's -2.49 and you need to add .1 then it goes to -2.29 right?

[@jamesttait]

2017 Video and still the best video i have found, Legend! 3 days trying to get my new CR10 Max printer to work, came across this video and 15 minutes later, I was printing my first test Elephant, which came out Flawless. Although the display is different on my cr10 max and cold not see z figures, i used the press down 0.1 + 0.1 + 0.1 = -0.3 or in my case -1.9. when the paper moved i went home then reset to -1.85 which was perfect. Thanks

[@3DMakerNoob]

Happy this video aged well :)

[@franskeeman223]

there's something i don't understand, great video btw. but when you say you have 2.49 and add the paper 0.1 doesn't it have to be 2.59? i am confused a bit?

[@KevinPawsey]

me too... been looking at all the comments, a few people have picked that up, but I haven't found an answer so far though... will reply again if it was answered

[@kemppetersen]

OP did confirm (2017 reply) the error; correct setting for this example is 2.59

[@dn1546]

Just bought a BL Touch and couldn't get my offset to work. was about to pack it in and return it to amazon until I found this video! excellent work!

[@bigbernie23]

Hi Joe! Great job done here, it summarizes in a few minutes what you can partially read o see in some videos and blogs but I couldn't find the whole story in one single brief place like you do here. Great job. I'd probably suggest two small adds, if you think are accurate. One is to always remark that all this operation has to be done with bed and extruder at operating temperature! Some might skip this part and all the work will have no value once it gets to print, right? Second thing, that it drove me nuts after instaling my BL Touch and upgrading to Marlin 1.1.8 is the M420 S1 command. I tried and retried and my first layer was still skewed only to find out that by default (at least on my case) the auto bed level was off (which you check with a simple M420). The simple solution was to add a M420 S1 after the last G28 on my printer settings commands, but nobody seems to talk much about it and all the auto bed leveling is useless unless you ensure you have the feature turned on. Do you agree? Do everybody need that or was it just me? Best regards and again, congratulations on this video.

[@rraymakers]

@@cordellabney This behavior has now been clarified in the Marlin documentation.

[@rfc1795]

Thanks a lot! Turns out mine was also off!

[@DrewMarold]

Thank you so much for this. I did a board swap & added a BLTouch and couldn't for the life of me figure out how to set this properly. Now I'm back in business.

[@Mr_Gadge]

This video has been referred to a lot by me lol, it's great! Now I'm into marlin 2, and I follow every step (mini e3/ender3/2.0.1Marlin) it always seems to IGNORE any z offset?? I'm going slightly insane. I've set it this way, and the lcd, soon as I home again it's too high. Set it yet again through terminal in octo, home, back too high again. Circles. I have real memory issues but I'm missing some real basic thing here. EDIT: Marlin bug it seems, lots are saying this.

[@robertavery8897]

I’m having the same issue right now. Did u ever resolve it. My printer is printing great ... just don’t want to screw it up chasing the bltouch issue. Later

[@Mr_Gadge]

Robert Avery it was a fault in marlin, fixed in later editions.

[@CraftHound22]

Man I searched and searched and this was the video that made it simple and clear. I then realized how old this video is. Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I subscribed and am looking forward to looking through your videos.

[@nghin4vacsf]

Thank you for a very helpful tip on the topic. There is however a question concerning the adjustment for the paper thickness at time 4:20 where you execute the command M851 Z-2.50. Shouldn't it have been Z-2.59 instead? The manual Z adjustment yielded -2.49, then you added the paper thickness of 0.1mm.

[@px1690]

That's what I thought as well but hey might be very very thin paper he was using ;-) But all jokes aside, it's more the process that counts not really the actual figures.

[@davidvelozee]

That’s what I was thinking, that would leave it off the bed by 0.09mm. And the paper I measured is actually 0.07mm not 0.1mm. But I’m still setting up so have no idea what I’m talking about..

[@x0atm3alx]

from what Im understanding is this procedure measures the offset of the BLtouch from absolute zero of the nozzle touching bed so you have to add the adjustment from the bed to nozzle using the paper for proper distance.

[@Grumpyoldtwit]

@@x0atm3alx Yes, but in the video, he added 0.1 to 2.49 and came up with 2.5, which means he only added 0.01 for the paper, not 0.1.

[@Awesome_O_2000]

Happy to see this comment. Was thinking I was crazy :P

[@AmanoJack]

Absolutely brilliant! The current (2020/12/22) official Creality firmware for Ender 5 does not allow the Z offset to be saved, so this was a lifesaver! Thank you!

[@watchdogpedro]

Just a perfect job of going through the process, a real find after lots of searching to listen to this video Nice Job

[@henricoderre]

To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.

[@Tarzan33]

I've followed these steps exactly, but every time I check by hitting home, then move Z to 0, it ends up stopping above the bed in the same position it was prior to starting the process. Could there be anything else making it not save my changes?

[@butcharuski]

Same for me.

[@lukepalmer7459]

@@butcharuski Same here...

[@fernwehmind]

Same..

[@rayropes]

Same here. I have an ender 5 pro.

[@bjork74]

Late reply, but if someone's reading; Try storing the offset directly on the printer instead, not in Pronterface. Worked on my Ender 5 Pro.

[@billbollinger3748]

Just spent 4 hours trying to troubleshoot this issue and your video was the only one that had the info I needed that I found. Thank you!

[@SuknHoffStudios]

I've tried this process 8 times now, I'm having absolutely no luck with this. I've tightened down all 4 springs and re calibrated Z Offset and still the nozzle doesn't come down to the bed close enough to put a good first layer down..

[@bruhboi554]

Use the z step in tune and then lower it

[@wolff000]

@@bruhboi554 This is the way. I had the same thing happening and tuning while doing a test print solved my issue.

[@ellyonartgaming]

This was the most helpful video ever. I had BL touch on my old 4.2.2 motherboard and I just had some issues with my printer so Creality sent me 4.2.7 upgrade. It so silent, however I couldn't probe the Z into minus. This video is so easy to follow, straight forward for a newbie like me. Thank you so so much! P.S. Higly highly recommend upgrading motherboard, I don't hear a sound while printing except fan.

[@kenniclown3103]

Shouldn't -2.49 + -0.1 = -2.59?

[@LeandroSehnemHeck]

Everytime I see this video I am more confused. At least someone is asking the right question. What is wrong? The calculation or the paper thickness?

[@duveral]

Very good video, I use it often, summary: 1. Home 2. M851 Z0 (reset current z offset) 3. M500 (store settings) 4. M501 (set eprom as active param) 5. M503 (get current settings) 6. G28 Z0 (home z) 7. G1 F60 Z0 (move nozzle to 0 z) 8. M211 S0 (off soft endstops) 9. Slide paper until is right and write down Z axis number + thickness paper 10. M851 Z X.XX (set that value step 9) 11. M211 S1 (on soft endstops) 12. M500, M501, M503 13. Home 13.G1 F60 Z0 (check is correct)

[@thetango8017]

So ignore the "-" and "+" value. The "_" number from display and the"+" number from the thickness of the paper. Just add the numbers together?

[@mariomoreno6754]

Great video but z - 2.49 + 0.1 (paper) = - 2.59 not how you spell it - 2.50

[@natewallis1]

actually that is 2.39 ...-2.49 + .1.... should we be adding or suubtracting it?

[@afkafkafk]

Bigger negative is closer to bed, so you need to do the operation to increase the negative, in this case subtract

[@galacticgaming8036]

In simple terms if it’s -10 it will be farther but if its -1 it will be closer

[@alejandroperez5368]

Why am I only getting "echo:busy:processing" when I send commands to my printer (even homing) ??

[@thebestempty]

That should go away once the command is executed. So, after homing is complete it will stop sending those messages.

[@userskorea]

wow.. idk how many guides and vids I went thru misery... this is by far the clearest and most informative video of all offset probe calibration:) thank you so much

[@strike171]

Wish I did this before I scratched my bed up

[@librarymark]

Yeah, me too. On the bottom of everything I print is the outline of my screw-up!

[@bootblacking]

Scratches are just a little memento mori. Grow beyond your mistakes but remain humble.

[@ezearo]

Haha noobs

[@strike171]

@@ezearo everyone starts somewhere

[@d1agram4]

I scratched 2.. this is insane.

[@grantc8353]

Got my first printer and after 1 month put levelling on it. Iv just been staring at it for 2 months but thanks to this I was able to get it working so thanks!

[@wattsnb]

Hi Joe. If the initial z adjustment was -2.49mm and the paper was 0.1mm should the adjusted figure not be -2.59?

[@3DMakerNoob]

+Neil Watts well spotted Neil. In fact it should be -2.59 apologies, almost 1am lol it did work in the end for me as I pushed the nozzle down to the bed more than the thickness of the paper

[@wattsnb]

3D Maker Noob. Great vid and always love your channel. One of few I subscribe too 👍

[@thelookingglass1737]

Was about to mention the same, good thing I decided to read the comments first! Average paper is indeed .10 but lately I've been getting all sorts of irregular sizes so I've decided to move off to feeler gauges. So, say I'm using glass? i subtract the thickness of the glass + the paper (feeler gauge)? Great channel you got going here. Thanks for all the work and effort. Cheers

[@PlugHideous]

did subtract the thickness of the glass + the paper?

[@TheVexatus]

Feeler is more precise - if for isntance the .15 fits in under your nozzle and .2 doesn't means you've got no more then .05 of an error.

[@josephcostarella7733]

I just got this printer and it started to do this after the first print which was fine. I owe you a lot bro

[@bkpickell]

I'm confused. In the video you said you add the thickness of the paper ".1" to the z position "-2.49". If my gradeschool math doesn't fail me the correct answer is -2.39 not -2.50 nor is it -2.59 as some others have stated. Or did you misspeak by saying add when you meant subtract?

[@andyjones704]

mate, after 2 days of fannying around with this i found your video, which no one else has dealt with. thank you so much. solved now!

[@daleward2229]

I don't have a display how do i see the position?

[@StoicKiwi]

I used the command M114, which showed all current positions!

[@z6Official]

I had just installed a CR Touch on my Ender 3 V2 and nothing would stick to the bed. Not a damn thing. My prints weren't great when I was levelling manually but they at least printed. Then someone pointed me to this video and I have no idea what witchcraft you worked to figure this out but thank you so much. I ran a test pattern and every line was solid, with sharp corners, and perfect adhesion.

[@KarlDonovan]

Hi Joe, Thanks... Fitted an SKR mini V2 and was clueless about setting the z off set probe distance. Did find that even with your guide I still needed to take off another .2 as was too close to the bed. Am off and running now, so great guide!

[@henrikbakk1]

Thanks!

[@stephenelliott95]

Thank you, just upgraded my printers with BLTouch and 3DTouch and this was invaluable.

[@johnwortman7624]

OMG Thank you SO much!!! I have been fighting with this Z Offset for too long!! SO many useless videos on this. My Applause, Sir! You are Amazing!!

[@colbritton1676]

Hi and thank you so much for this very informative video. I have been working on setting up my BLTOUCH for weeks. Having firstly trouble loading Marlin firmware then corrupting the bootloader, Finally overcoming these problems I was confronted with the calibrations, more problems and then I found your video with Pronterface, I had never heard of this programme and boy did it and yourself make it even easy for a old fart like me, Thank you again and you have found a new fan.

[@AceticWolfe]

This has fully resolved the issue I have been having with my CR-touch on my updated Ender 3 Pro. Thank you much.

[@johngreene4396]

New to 3D printing and just got a BLTouch for my Ender 3. Your guide is refreshingly concise, cheers...

[@KrustyKlown]

I have 6 printers running with BL Touch probes, a small production farm. What I have learned is that the optimal Z Offset varies with Material ... and varies as the Nozzle tip & hole wears over time. Also, any mechanical change, disassembly & reassembly, even what you would think should result in the same Offset, may not, another calibration must be performed. A change of 0.05mm of offset will produce visible differences in first layer print quality, changes below 0.03mm are hard to discern. (by optimal, I mean the print quality of the first layer, the cosmetic appearance of the surface against the print bed).

[@jackpotrc7720]

Every time I need to recalibrate the #Z-offset - I go to this video Wish I could give you 100 thumbs up for this one. Thank you.

[@CallistoPili]

finally a real example exactly how to tune the Z-offset in a concise manner, well done!

[@no-trick-pony]

2020 simple guide: If you use Marlin, just set z-offset to 0, do mesh bed leveling, afterwards start a print (you will abort it later), then use baby stepping in Marlin to lower the nozzle until you get good first layer lines. write down the number from babystepping, and either put it into the firmware directly, recompile and flash it or simply input it and save it in marlin. Regardless of what you do, don't forget to modify the beginning gcode in cura or your slicer and insert a G29 followed by M500 or M501 followed by M420 S1 after G28 command (because G28 resets turned on mesh bed leveling, so as soon as your print starts, mesh bed leveling gets turned off, even if you enabled it in marlin on your printer). G29 simply does meshbedlevling before the print, and M500 saves it to the EEPROM (that is not necessary, but it is nice to always have the newest leveling data stored on your printer). The second option simpley uses the meshbed data stored on your printer (by loading all data from EEPROM with M501 and enabling mesh bed levling with M420 S1 again). You need to have run either auto mesh bed leveling by hand on your printer and stored it or you used the G29/M500 version previously described before so you just use the leveling data from your last print. I personally go for 5x5 meshbed leveling every time before the print, because it takes like 1-2 minutes. and the print itself.. usually 1hour - 30 hours. But in return I get a guaranteed good first layer every time.

[@spinracing]

Best Z axis offset on the web. Have used it and sent many to watch. (And am back using it because I changed nozzles after a year plus and forgot to re-set my Z offset)

[@rainforestnomad]

Hi. This video has been absolutely great for me. I have been struggling with my BL touch and bed levelling on my Ender 3. After following your guide, I have finally successfully set up my printer. Thank you for your efforts.

[@adscomics]

Oh god, thanks for making this video. Been having leveling issues with an Ender 3 for years and am still kinda new to the concept of auto leveling, this video quickly helped me fix the problem and get nice first layers finally!

[@yaboo007]

Thank you very much for the video, just got my bl-touch working with my wombot. After your video it was just adjusting the z probe offset to have the correct z offset for filament level

[@Jord032]

Even though this video is 3 years old it saved my bacon at 2 am last night while I was pulling my hair out. Thank you for the concise tutorial!!

[@daniellynch3724]

you also helped me get started with manually entering gcode commands and reading marling docs with this. kudos.

[@Seoz]

I've been back to this video so many times...literally every nozzle change I come back here.

[@victorlawver6957]

I can't tell you how many times I've referred back to this video. Extremely Helpful.

[@carllatham9844]

Fantastic little how to,my head was battered i couldn't get it to print after installing a bl touch on my sovol sv01, i tried sovol flash didnt work marlin flash from sovol didn't work . did this and perfect prints every time awesome thanks man

[@ssbbcop]

I come back to this over and over again to get myself set up. Such a good tutorial!!! Thanks!

[@alexrenton67]

Fantastic procedure, really easy to follow. I found that I got better results when I didn't account for the paper (running an Ender 3 Pro, with Creality BL touch upgrade and the Creality Glass Bed). I've also since discovered the "ABL Expert Plugin" for Octoprint (I know I'm not using an ABL sensor, but the offset value is the same variable) which allows you to tweak the offset by changing a "Z-Probe Offset" variable and hitting save, which has allowed me to fettle the setting a little. If you're running Octoprint that is :)

[@israelarias1577]

There's tons of tutorials, but this is the one that I needed. Can belive it finally worked out. THANKS!

[@IzzyBoop]

This is literally the BEST Z offset video ever. Thank you.

[@jsiravo07]

great guide. one thing to add in the steps is to heat up everything as the Z offset does change slightly once everything is heated