P74 Vette: Trailing Arm + Bearing Setup

[@jessemarinjr6374]

YOU MAKE IT LOOK EASY !! GREAT JOB !!

[@CamaroRick]

Haha thank you!

[@lewiscollins9314]

❤ Thanks. My father designed the chassis, suspension and brakes for the first Stingray. I inherited his 74 and shipped it to Australia.

[@timewiththedurbins]

Great video. I'm getting ready to rebuild the trailing arms on my 71. This video is going to be a big help. Thanks.

[@briankeery1]

Awesome instructions, getting ready for reassembly on my '79.

[@zacbooterbaugh2234]

Awesome video. I’m about to put my 79’s new axle stubs in today. Also have a 73 waiting on the same after I finish the 79

[@jhuntosgarage]

It's a damn good thing video editing isn't as complicated as that rear end or else there would be much fewer KZbinrs. OMG! Give me a straight axle any day! Nice work!

[@CamaroRick]

LOL true! Thanks J!

[@MrRanggong]

Excellent video. I wish every how-to videographer would use your narrative-over-super-speed technique. AND it had some killer guitar riffs. Some guys waste 5 minutes of film just taking off a nut.

[@elainestamper3873]

Wow you work fast! Good video!

[@dkevvv]

Great video. Lots of help. I just finished my bearing and trailing arms. Just a note on the bearing clearance. I see people that try to get the clearance down to .001 or .002. There is a reason the real limit is between .002 and .008. If the clearance it down to .001 or even .002 when you drive the car and it heats up, this could reduce the clearance farther and cause overheated bearings.

[@nothankyou5524]

i learn something new and remember something old every time I watch your work. Thank you. Subscribed, liked, and watching every ad that will come by.

[@CamaroRick]

You welcome and thank you!

[@TCBGARAGE]

Thank you. I watched this video and decided to rebuild mine on my 74 instead of buying rebuilt arms. It's definitely much easier than everyone thinks.

[@CamaroRick]

Glad to help!

[@scottpearsontoolsmore185]

Great video thanks brother. I like how fast you work. Looked like a day job and you got it done in 11.50 minutes. Great video thanks again keep up the great work see you in the next video

[@CamaroRick]

Lol! Thanks for checking it out!

[@briankeery1]

Really enough your video. I’m in the process of completing my 79 and I have two questions. Before you installed the bearings and seals, did you set the spacer and shim into the assembly? I didn’t see that, but assumed you would have to. Secondly, my inboard shims were rust welded together and had to be cut out along with the bolt at the same time…..so I actually only had complete shim stacks for both outboard sides on each trailing arm. I have installed the arm just like you did…..and my question is, when you have your shim stacks loaded in, and the nut tightened to the point the cotter pin can go in, approximately how much play ( if any) will you feel side to side on the end of the trailing arm? Thanks for any insight you could offer.

[@cruzandread]

Great video Rick, keep the good content rolling.

[@CamaroRick]

Thanks Marco!!

[@That_Guy_Izzy]

Awsome video as always!

[@CamaroRick]

Thanks bro!

[@cliffmcintyre3817]

Very helpful

[@joegoodwin3157]

Hi Camaro Rick, thanks for the video; I did my trailing arms on my 76; I did the everything on my mock up spindle to as described to spec; My end play was 0.006 on both sides without grease on the mockup spindle; When I installed the permanent spindle, greased the bearings and torqued the spindle nuts down to 100ft lbs, the spindle rotation seems to be pretty tight and my endplay is nothing. Does this sound right? Thanks.

[@CamaroRick]

The grease will add resistance, that's normal. You should be able to turn it by hand and it should be smooth.

[@joegoodwin3157]

@@CamaroRick Ok, thanks; I can turn them by hand; I just wanted to make sure it's not a sign that I put to much grease. Would you expect them to loosen up a bit as I drive the car?

[@CamaroRick]

@@joegoodwin3157 It will feel similar to any new modern hub style wheel bearing as far as resistance in turning. As they wear in they will loosen up. If the seals are still in the housing its not too much grease.

[@joegoodwin3157]

@@CamaroRick Awesome. Thanks very much;

[@CamaroRick]

@@joegoodwin3157 You are welcome!

[@toddferrell518]

How the heck did you get the bolts that hold the trailing arms back in ? I have no room to get to them

[@CamaroRick]

For removal you generally have to cut them out with a reciprocating saw. Going back in leave the new shims out so you can get some angle on the bolt as it goes back in from the middle of the car outward. Make sure you record what shims were in it for a close mock up alignment. Also everything should be disconnected from the t-arm

[@pjames4413]

Rick, do you have a preference for brand of wheel bearing grease? I have Lucas "Red n Tacky #2" on hand, as well as Mystik "JT6 Semi-synthetic (Blue)".

[@CamaroRick]

I would go with the best grease available. The red n tacky is a very good grease.

[@pjames4413]

@@CamaroRick thank you for the reply Rick.

[@GIZZMOTORSPORTS]

I remember doing these. Not too bad, Just So many steps. Nice vid tho, way better than mine. 😆

[@CamaroRick]

Thank you, Its definitely an interesting design

[@trevorseals6588]

What is the torque spec for the 4 bracket bolts?

[@MRSOMTHINBASIC]

This video was littttttt😁👍

[@CamaroRick]

Lol!! glad you liked that

[@tedcarter3573]

Well this is a great video but if you’re trying to learn something exactly how it’s done , it’s too fast but it is a good video

[@allendabold5611]

please do away with the music in the background it's very annoying other than that you have a great video

[@GunnyNinja]

Talk or music. Not both.

[@1badc3corvette97]

This is why I don't do trailing arms lol

[@CamaroRick]

Ive really grown to like the C3's over the years. Especially modified ones like yours man. Thanks for checking it out!