How to rebuild a Corvette rear wheel bearing part 2

In this video series I show you how to correctly rebuild the rear wheel bearings on a 1963 Chevrolet Corvette. This application is for a vehicle that is going to be judged by the NCRS or other organizations. It is applied in a manor that duplicates the style and appearance of how the car would have looked from the factory
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[@89vette1]

No end play measurement? How do you know you are not too tight? It will still spin. I set mine up to .003”. Spec is .001 to .008”. Flange nut is 100 lbft of torque.

[@dynodon427]

Finally! A video that show how to do the work properly. Thank you.

[@lourose6512]

I only ever did one of these (although I got 2 coming tonight) we actually assembled it wrapping a piece of solder in place of the shim, disassembled it measured the smashed solder and ground a shim to fit. Might be a help to folks like me that don't have all the specialized tools. Thanks for the video, nice work.

[@TriodeLuvr]

Thanks for showing this process. I remember when Chevy dealers were charging around $500 per wheel to do this job (mid-'70s). They didn't always set them up right, so the bearings sometimes only lasted 20-30K miles. I eventually sanded down the spindles on my '64 so the inner bearing was only a slight interference fit. Once that's done, you can replace both sides in a couple of hours without pulling the arms, and no special tools are required (except a dial gauge).

[@Jonesys]

I assure you that for final assembly all dust shields were installed correctly regardless thanks for watching so closely. Only a detailed Corvette guy would pick up on something like that two thumbs up.

[@TheEyedocs96]

Great video. I really like how you walked us through the disassembly and assembly of the rear bearings. I will be using this to help me rebuild mine. This will be my first attempt at this. The only criticism would be that I wished you showed the bearing endplay being tested with a dial indicator. The novices won't know what a proper feel is and will need to measure it. Maybe you can add this on your next rebuild. Thanks

[@zacbooterbaugh2234]

Awesome video thank you

[@Jonesys]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@boliskmail]

Hmm. . .GM is very specific about the amount of end play that you SHOULD have on the bearings. You want some end play (cannot remember the spec but I seem to remember it being ~.002). . .and the recommendations are to use a micrometer and pry bar to test for it.

[@dickmick5517]

Good advice. Lets use the facts. Feel is to arbitrary.

[@fathergratwick]

point of the mock up tool is not to have to do a test fit on the actual shaft pressing the bearing on and off the real shaft.

[@MrCbell57]

Yes sir. Seems some people don’t know things and they try to come across as experts and then have people following a person who learnt wrong. :( but he does an okay job to explain things to a real beginner.

[@swedethunell]

All good except he didn't put the rear brake caliper support bracket on.

[@dadams19111]

Enjoyed the video. I have a 75 vette so this is good to know.!

[@georgemay2547]

Just discovered your videos .Very informative . Keep em coming .

[@hmdwn]

You don't use a Dial Indicator to measure end play???

[@smokey4343]

I thought the endplay is about .003 to .007 with a dial indicator. I set mine to .003 ?

[@dkevvv]

@@smokey4343 True,,,,,,, some say to set it at 0 but that isn't correct. When the assembly heats up 0 play can cause it to bind.

[@89vette1]

How do you know you are not too tight if you didn’t measure the end play? Spec is .001 to .008”. I set mine up at .003”

[@tedcarter3573]

Didn’t play it was the same question I was going to ask nobody answers that why are you not setting that up with a dial indicator don’t get me wrong. I love your video. I’m watching it religiously because I’m doing a Corvette tomorrow.

[@jdmtechllc6589]

I bought an assembly from van steel, when I put the flange yoke, the flat washer, and the nut on and torque it to 100 lbs/ft the flange yoke has axial play Its as if the washer contacts the stub shaft but the flange yoke is not touching the inner race of the bearing.

[@goodboyringo9716]

It would be better if you told the toque on the nut?

[@oneeyedsnake6914]

Sister Josie I don't know why you wouldn't use a hydraulic press on a lot of this stuff

[@akshairtube]

Thanks again.

[@oneeyedsnake6914]

That's Mr jonesy

[@akshairtube]

This is an excellent article. It is clear, step by step, and good visual. I wonder however if every enthusiast will go the length of making that puller you used. Apart from this, I am a little confused because I am unsure if the set up tool duplicates, exactly, the actual situation. Spacers are used to take up the discrepancies in bearing thicknesses? Not the arm depth? Thanks.

[@akshairtube]

Also: You missed on the part of replacing the races. Isn't that a must??

[@mechrojo]

Hi, Great explanation and thanks for the detail.Is the procedure the same on the disc brake rear end? Cheers

[@flamingodebra]

Why will this procedure not work on a disc brake trailing arm? It is good to see the bearing support re bearing-ed while removed from the trailing arm - I often wonder why the re-builders do not offer this service? You alway have to send them the complete trailing arm assembly for rebuild.

[@dalemarchant565]

Looks like you left out the dust shield GM Part # 3820238 that goes on the spindle support, over the press in grease seal. Check your parts book/assembly manual.

[@olchevy7983]

Cool Metropolitan

[@dkevvv]

Is the torque for the final nut 100 ft/lbs?

[@williamandrews1683]

It isn't on this one. He also didn't set the .004 clearance it's should have.