Camshaft gear adjusters replacement on z16xer z18xer Astra H, Zafira B, Vectra C p0011 p0014 noise

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Both adjusters must be tightened at 65Nm + 120°+15°
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[@wecarespares]

Great videos very helpful, but i just had look the book and found some torque setting different to whats in the video For cruze with Z18XER head there three stage A>Install the camshaft adjuster (3) and the camshaft adjuster bolts (2) and tighten the bolts in three passes: Hold at the appropriate camshaft hexagon. 1.1. First pass tighten to 65 N·m (48 lb ft) 1.2. Second pass to 120 degrees using the EN-45059 sensor kit 1.3. Third pass to 15 degrees using the EN-45059 sensor kit B>Install the 2 camshaft adjuster closure plugs (1) and tighten to 30 N·m (23 lb ft).

[@wecarespares]

Noticed you already updated it, cheers

[@fixanddrive]

Yes, you are right, I made a mistake

[@FidaPr]

Correct. I came to update this info but it's done already.. Good.

[@MrSpidermaintenance]

Hello guys , hope this find you well I want inquire you guys regard the oil sleeves installation location is it on the end of camshaft or in rear of the adjusters (phasers) . Because if they not in the correct place it will male rattle . Thanks a lot in advance for your reply

[@spitoon70]

I just did this job over the weekend. I wanted to say thank you for making the video, it was a great help. I have 2 notes: 1) the crankshaft locking was slightly different on our 2008 Saturn Astra. There is a small rubber inspection plug by the flywheel that needs to be removed and the locking tool goes in there. 2) Be careful with the orientation of the camshaft sprocket locking tool. We initially had it in backwards and it just wasn't lining up, but when we figured that out it went smoothly. Thanks again!

[@fixanddrive]

Both adjusters must be tightened at 65Nm + 120°+15°, so much stronger than I mentioned in the video

[@iamasmurf1122]

Fix and Drive actually its 50 NM then 150 degrees + 15 roughly the same as you have

[@lb2084]

Brilliant video clear and easy to follow steps , many thanks

[@milosbeograd6877]

Hi from Berlin! Great Video for a common problem on these engines. I had the same issue with my Astra J 1.6, changed the camshafts (which was not cheap) and the first day after change the engine light went on. P0011, after several changes and try‘s it came out that the problem was a bad magnetic valve which caused the P0011 and the sound. So, before investing a lot of money and time, change the magnetic valve first, everybody can do it on his own and its a cheap investion. Best

[@fixanddrive]

Thanks, regards from Poland.

[@mmg296]

Where is that magnetic valve?

[@thechugster]

excellent write up! ..many thanks :)

[@andrewshort5492]

Hi, brilliant video! I've been looking for something like this for months for my 2010 Chevrolet Cruze 1.6L. Chevrolet have diagnosed that these need replacing and it's only done 23,000 miles :( Incidentally my engine is only make this noise when the engine is at operating temperature and not when cold. Also the code P0016 is shown.

[@ona2621]

thanks !! good instructions

[@stuartgibson9902]

Very good video thanks

[@TheWaldorfer]

Nice. Thank you!

[@jhnnyg1]

great video

[@stevesutton9444]

I've just fitted a new belt and water pump, now I have discovered the camshaft gear adjuster is noisy, it wasn't until I changed the oil (Castrol 10w 30) So the question is, can I replace the camshaft gear adjuster without undoing all that I've done? You've earned my subscription by your excellent video.

[@jamesbarratt593]

Only thing I would say is the cam retaining bolts are recommended to be changed, and the tensioner pulley locking tools could be Allen keys. Also crankshaft pulley bolt comes out easy if you get underneath and slide a flat piece of metal into a space in engine roughly in middle of the car.

[@edgardoreyes1792]

excellent video ... I had this problem ... change sprockets distribution and noise was solved for a few days ... now in the morning for 1 to 2 seconds sounds same diesel but after the noise is removed and no diesel sounds more like .... any idea what happens ?? that ... after the change of gears I have error code P0366 ... any idea what has happened ??? Thank you..

[@jamesporter4749]

Great video, this will help me out a lot when I do one on a Vauxhall Mokka in a few weeks. My mate said on Autodata for the vauxhall mokka you have to remove the starter motor and use a different crankshaft locking tool. Has anyone experienced this as it seems like a needle in a haystack to find. Thanks

[@akosisugbuanon684]

Great video! I have a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8L with the same Z18XER engine. I will be replacing my timing belt and v-belt soon and my car also have this noise during start up. But it only last for about 2-3 seconds and then it goes away. Might need to replace the cam gears as well. If you don't mind I'd like to ask the size of the following bolts: 1. Bolt that holds the v-ribbed belt tensioner (e-torx? ) 2. Spanner size for releasing the tension of the v-belt tensioner 3. Crankshaft gear bolt 4. Camshaft gear bolts (I believe these are torx bolts) I'm trying to avoid buying an entire set sockets as some of it might not be used. I'm only trying to get the exact tools that I need for my car. I hope you can help. Thanks.

[@stevesutton9444]

12 16 18 should do the trick some millimeter sockets do the job as well

[@StopMeFast]

Not sure if you still active here but the video is very helpful, quick question though, once you have the flywheel lined up with the marks, the two cam phasers should be in the correct place right to be locked with the cam tool?

[@akhil6987]

do you turn the camshaft adjusters clockwise or anti clockwise

[@TheMillenotti]

Hi, I've done this once before and now I need to do it on my own. I remember that when I did it previously, I had to readjust the camshaft/phaser several times, 5-6 times, because it kept falling out of alignment to the crankshaft after rotating it around. Is it normal that it was so finicky or perhaps I've not done something properly? It was fine afterwards of course, it just played around way too much and I'm wondering if there's anything I could do better.

[@user-yk3sf3bh2y]

Hello I have a car Chevrolet Cruze model in 2011 in which the problem has engine where issued a strong voice what causes this sound doubt run

[@luiscmendez2550]

excellent video, I have the same problem, I put everything new but the noise continues, they tell me that they can be the hydraulic plugs .. what is your opinion

[@aaronditchfield781]

oil control valve

[@fouillandjeremie859]

Hi please did you find the solution ?

[@TheSliderking]

Hello, do you know the P/N for the seals at 5:00 for the camshaft? Thanks

[@craighall206]

Hi could you please tell me what size star bit I need to get the inner bolt off on the crank ajusters please. Cheers Craig

[@zarkodanicic]

Does this engine (Z18XER) have hydraulic valve lifters or does their clearance have to be manually adjusted at a certain mileage?

[@francescokeskini7455]

We needed to hear how the engine sounds after.

[@spazzan1]

hi, at minute 2:13, there is a piece of paper, but is barely to read. Could you tell me what is written on that? many thx!

[@AFC19034life]

Is it possible to only change one adjuster pulley if needed or is changing both at same time recommended?

[@D-2-the-no]

usually its the inlet adjuster (the back one, or the one to the left if youre looking at the belt) that packs up. most people replace them in pairs but you can do just one. i replaced just the inlet cam as theyre about £90-£100 each.

[@stacychapman4588]

Hi anyone know where a cam shaft position sensor is located on a Vauxhall Astra h 1.6 07 thanks

[@engaming3912]

good video, please need your help, i have chevy cruze 1.8 ls, and has the same sound, only the noise lasts 3 seconds how in your video in 0:23 sec. What recommendation can you give me, please?

[@fixanddrive]

You can observe it now. If the noise continues and is audible while the engine is running warm, you need to replace the VVTi system (gear adjusters). So no need to do it now. However, you should take a look the vvti solenoids and see the sieves/filters are ok. Many people remove the sieves/filters from the solenoids as they obscure the flow of oil.

[@engaming3912]

Thanks, and how do I remove the filters?

[@spencerstilwell6233]

Hi mate I have the same noise at start up for a few seconds I have removed filters from solonids but the same and also my car pings under load and when I boot it I take it if them pulleys are in some way on way out would it cause pings?

[@keenyoung]

Can you tell me what size open end wrench to hold the camshaft and remove the torx bolt from the adjuster? I can't seem to hold it well enough.

[@FidaPr]

I use a 24 wrench, but you have to thin it a little bit on the side, standard wrenches are a little bit to wide to fit in the space where you need to grab. Use a grinding tool ore a stone, just a little bit is enough to get in between.

[@mattmgarza]

24mm

[@-john-reilly6138]

Hi the only thing I can not find is where to lock the crankshaft off have you got a photo of this

[@fixanddrive]

Don't know exactly, but looking at the pic, it is one of the gearbox bolts to the right of the catalytic converter heat shield

[@TheMattd546]

What is the spanner tool? Is that in the "camshaft locking tool kit"??

[@fixanddrive]

spanner is just a spanner. see pictures in google graphics

[@sara78130]

Hi I get crazy with one. Come timing gone I replace headgasket. New valve I put bk everything car not start. 50 psi compression 😮

[@jishnuunnikrishnan6780]

Does this problem make delay in cranking?

[@CGreenCars]

Torque setting is 65nm plus 135°!

[@fixanddrive]

Yeah, you are right

[@ekans13]

How much would this cost from a independent garage roughly?

[@CODzyzz]

My wrench slipped while trying to loosen the bolt on the exhaust sprocket and where the tool sits to lock the camshaft inside chipped a piece off of the end. is it still going to be okay to use?

[@CODzyzz]

as well as using a proper wrench this time it still was too wide to grip the cam well enough so put the camshaft gear locking tool number 3 in as well as the inner engine camshaft locking tool and its more than enough to hold it, i couldn't feel much on the wrench side. Put in the exhaust sprocket then put the locking tool back in to do the other one

[@MrSmithToday]

what the tool look like for locking crank?

[@fixanddrive]

See the video at 2:05, number 3

[@MrSmithToday]

Hi did you have a pic of the crankshaft locking tool and procedure as the pic just shows a bolt coming out.

[@richiec9077]

You don't need to lock crank just keep making sure it's not moved from the timing mark when installing the belt

[@MrSmithToday]

@@richiec9077 If you can do that on your engine then it's a go. The twin over head cam I last done kept valve spring pressure that moved away from its Mark's on both cams. So I had no choice.

[@richiec9077]

@@MrSmithToday yeah I locked the camshafts on the opposite end of the pulleys but I didn't lock up the crankshaft

[@richiec9077]

@@MrSmithToday infact the only tool I used was the cam shaft locking tool and it wasn't even the right one I had to file it down to get it to fit inside the cam shafts I didn't use a tool to lock the pulleys either just made sure the alignment marks lined up ok

[@fouillandjeremie859]

Hi i changed both camshafts pulleys and solenoïds, oil and oil filter, and always the same noise every time...:( could any body help me please ?

[@SquadleaderMike]

fuck i got the same problem and changed my timing belt a week ago. now i know what that noise is and now i gotta do all that shit again

[@dan1claudiu]

Hello, I am facing the following problem with the Opel Zafira B Z16xer, more precisely in 04/2020 I went to the service to diagnose the noise produced when starting the engine, where it was decided that the phase shifters are defective. Original s wrote INA GERMANY on the new INA CHINA, distribution, oil seals, etc., everything is good at start-up and on the go. , until this trrrrr, trrrrr, trrŕrr started at the traffic light. I suspected that the ECU would be the problem, I put another one to test the same noises. took it? as if you were putting the song you bought from us, it was ok, not Ina China. I called you to tell you that we don't know what happens to the parts blah blah blah ... ok we'll assemble it so let's look for another one that doesn't exist, another timing belt, other oil seals, another oil, a broken mechanic's, etc, .... after !!!!! almost 3 months, my heart froze in the morning when I started the engine, a short trrr, and the madness started .... again the same symptoms, the same trrrrr, trrrrr, trrrrrr, I call to see what happens to put the tester, that the songs are bad because I can't explain myself, because I don't think it's elsewhere.

[@yuniorramirez3757]

Pero es mejor cambiar el motor completo

[@doriscordell9566]

0:16 04:08 04:03

[@CODzyzz]

INSTEAD OF WRENCH TO HOLD CAMSHAFT USE THE INNER CAMSHAFT LOCKING TOOL AND OUTER IN COMBINATION WITH EACHOTHER

[@ryanchristensen1799]

My brand new less than 1000 miles 1.8L chevy sonic is making this dreadful sound at start up around 2 to 3 secs long. It only occurs when the engine has been driven for awhile and then parked for 30 mins to an hour. Go to start it up and rattle just like in this video. What would be causing this issue so early in the engines life? No codes have been set either. I just traded in a 2012 sonic with same engine that never made this noise the entire 137k miles it was driven. Go figure 🙄

[@bongukwandakhumalo6781]

Solenoid does that.

[@ryanchristensen1799]

@@bongukwandakhumalo6781 hope that's it. It doesn't do it everytime and it seems to be worse after a fresh oil change. Other thing that could cause it is the vvti isn't locking inside the cam sprocket.

[@johnray6222]

Too fast Cabot read it