Can I FIX a Kingston 240GB SSD ?

[@curtiskorb3494]

As soon as I saw your intro, I knew there was a Phison chip in there 🤬 I can confirm that Phison chip is in "Panic Mode", that's where the Satafirm comes in. The chip WORKS, but it's firmware is essentially bricked. I've successfully recovered 2 PNY CS900 drives with bricked firmware, but indeed the forced firmware flash was destructive to the data.

[@coctailrob]

Liking and replying so you comment sticks out. It is possible to chip-off data recovery from this situation but is super complicated due to the different ways the controllers and firmware organise the data blocks on the flash storage, with bad block remaps, XOR patterns, and other stuff. There’s a data recovery KZbin channel which covers this stuff, very interesting. Requires a investment in specialist hardware and software.

[@highpath4776]

can one replace the chip with a new one, and presumably the passive components to it

[@Patrik6920]

Warning!...This steps will be destructive to the drive ... ..first...replacing thes ship could make the drive working - BUT the data would be destroyed, and the data whats important...the drive itself isent... another solution is to cool the chip..it may be possibly just by adding a small heatsink/fan if ur lycky...otherwise second step would be to cool it to -70 deg celsius or so fairly slow (..to fast and it will die anyway, cooling in steps if possible)...once the data is recovered just toss it... ...if it still cant be recovered, bake the drive and or reseat the chips... if the chip still isent working thers not much to do at ur own hand... if the data was super important u would send it to a professional... ...if its important...always have ATLEAST one backup...

[@kawesu8781]

Fixed 1 PNY CS900 too with a firmware reflash.

[@laptoppakdosen3958]

where did you get the firmware from? is the firmware generic? i want it too just in case.

[@kxlleh]

Hey Vince, I've been watching your channel for couple of years now and just watched them for fun. But then I learned a lot more about electronics through your videos and just now fixed my nephews switch controller where I had to replace one analog stick. Big big thanks to you! Keep up the great content, really appreciate you! Take care.

[@pldaniels]

Hello Vince. In some ways these SSDs can be a bit depressing in how little physically seems to go wrong, leaving you with the undesirable task of either chip-off recovery + reorganisation or fighting with that controller. I've done a lot of work using ddrescue under linux and coupling it with a USB power switch that is controlled from the command line; so in situations like this you can craft a customised behaviour script that will let you do things like read 100MB, power cycle, read another 100MB etc, to save having to do the manual work you were experiencing. I suppose the "proper professional" solution here really is to have the chips removed, read off the data, and reassemble/decode it, usually things like PC3000 have all the decoding maps predefined for a lot of the controllers.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Paul. Probably a silly question but am I correct in thinking that even if I got an identical SSD and placed these 2 Kingston storage chips in the new SSD with a working Phison controller it still wouldn't work. The reball on the Kingston chips looks doable and the SSD are only £20-£30 on eBay, but I presume they are already connected via software together. Hope you're keeping well over there. I need to catch up on some PD vids, if you have any in mind that stand out let me know 👌👍👍👍

[@pldaniels]

@@Mymatevince I actually don't know to be honest; I suppose it would depend a lot on how the controller manages its remapped regions, ie does it keep it on the NANDs or internally in the controller. I'm sure someone with actual experience in that sort of task might weigh in.

[@Mymatevince]

@@pldaniels Thank you Paul 👌

[@northhankspin]

who gives a care. dont you have better things to do then save this garbage?

[@pldaniels]

@@northhankspin indeed - could be out making useless comments.

[@Lardzor]

I'd be tempted to just re-flow the PHISON controller chip. Not to remove the chip, just adding flux around the edges and get it hot enough to reflow the solder under the chip while trying to protect the NAND flash from getting too hot.

[@cosmefulanito5933]

This is not the problem. But the firmware.

[@bohmandy9611]

I fixed a couple of this by reflowing,copied the data to a new one.

[@Dg-zj6jo]

sometimes if theres a shinny suface it can give the impression is hot on the the thermal camera iv found great stuff vince we always get enjoyment when your on brilliant

[@marcosrobertogreiner]

I also have a Kingston drive, same size (240GB) which failed just the same as the one you reviewed here. Various recovery software I tried behaved exactly the same. Curious thing: when I opened the drive after seen your video, the board is different and there isn't one of those Phison chips inside. Also, when the disk failed, one of the first things I tried was to use Kingston tools to try to repair, access or at least reflash it. To my surprise, the Kingston tools didn't even recognize that a Kingston disk was attached to the computer at all (I was not using an USB adapter, but directly attached to another SATA port).

[@DataqRecovery]

Hey Vince. I've recovered a bunch of these, and it's usually the Phison controller stuck in something like safe mode or firmware update mode. Can usually recover them using the right (ie. Expensive) firmware tools without any further board repairs etc. (edited to add: Just checked my notes. In that fail mode they just return junk data or blank sectors, so the unplugging thing is probably a waste of time. Also that discolouration on the Phison controller might just be from a thermal pad inside the metal ssd shell. )

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge on these👍👍👍

[@DataqRecovery]

@@Mymatevince No problem. I'd be happy to take a look at it if you wanted to know if it can be done professionally?

[@Mymatevince]

@@DataqRecovery Thank you, it's back with it's originally owner now but I appreciate you offering 👍

[@BudgetAstro-ba]

hi. can you give me a quote on this? i have the same kingston drive with satafirm 11 fault

[@DataqRecovery]

@@BudgetAstro-ba Hi. It would be £329 if successful. You can contact us on our website, and we'll reply with full info (link in bio) 👍

[@dillon4813]

omg that mini pc is so nice. Its perfect for repair and diagnosics. So tiny and mobile. I need one of those.

[@TampaTec]

Great info here, I didn't think of fixing a SSD. I do have 2 HDDs that I can't format for some reason, they're 1tb so worth keeping.

[@incandescentwithrage]

1TB HDD are pretty much worthlessness now, especially faulty. Just replace

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Paul, shame I couldn't get the data out of them, I was hoping for a shorted capacitor 👍👍

[@samuraiedge3539]

What are you trying to format them from?

[@michaelthomas3646]

have you made sure they are the proper power supplies, and for the correct drive, because if you look at my comments you will see that it can be because of either driver related issues so needing a clean install, or by using the wrong power supply on the wrong drive. hope this helps.

[@TheSpotify95]

@@incandescentwithrage 1TB HDDs are OK but 500GB HDDs (or less) are worthless when 128GB SSDs (and 240GB SSDs) are cheap enough. 1TB SSDs are starting from about £35-£40 though so if you need 1TB, that's the way to go.

[@buckykattnj]

I probably would have gotten a couple big old heat sinks and clamped them on either sides of the warm, larger chips with a little conductive grease. Maybe spray a little compressed air from time to time. Just see if it extends your window of good reads with the recovery software. Applying some light compression might also temporarily fix any cracked solder balls for the time being.

[@jhesski]

My though too maybe cool the heck out of that chip and see if it last longer. upside down compressed can air freeze it.

[@LegoDork]

I was struggling to recover a spinny drive that kept over heating and making me start over. it was winter and it was below freezing outside. I opened a window and stuck the exposed bottom of this particular laptop up against the screen. It took ages, but I successfully recovered the drive. Shit. I may still be using some of the remnants, and that was in, like, 2010. I still have the clone I made for sure. That was such a good win.

[@dbradford259]

We used to use a frying pan and blocks of ice during data recovery back in the day.

[@therealjammit]

Many years ago I had a spinning hard drive where the electronics kept overheating, so I got some dry ice and super cooled it while I got the data off it.

[@ligametis]

The chip itself and it's software is most likely faulty

[@TheTTVert]

Vince, what FLIR camera are you using? I found the R ONE PRO LT but yours looks slightly different. Any issues w/ it thus far? Anything you don't like?

[@frankmathieson3029]

Might be worth plugging it into the SATA ports of your motherboard. In my experience those USB-SATA adapters aren't great at dealing with dodgy disks. However, having read some of the other comments, it almost definately the SSD controller so the recovery software may not work.

[@m2aimc]

Z tkt. tttv0

[@An4gram]

Definitely, this has worked for me for spinning disks and I see the card has a sata socket

[@EngelDerVerdammnis]

Just had the opposite with a faulty 2,5 HDD. Was able to recover data from it via USB, via Sata it won't get recognised but in general direct Sata is better in most cases. Exceptions confirm the rules I guess.

[@frankmathieson3029]

@@EngelDerVerdammnis Funny how an old comment suddenly gets more attention! As an update to my previous comment, I've recently been helping a friend with a new build, his 8tb Samsung SSD (fully working) is not recognised by the motherboard Sata at all but functions fine via a USB adapter!!!

[@diegotancredi3923]

Where did you get that mini laptop?

[@Lee-lm7pk]

Sometime the boot block gets corrupted, just try formatting it and then use a data recovery software to access the deleted files, they should still be pretty much intact, but some maybe damaged

[@icepee9252]

I wonder if chilling the controller chip might help the disconnection problem.

[@daves_channel1491]

Old school trick for the mechanical drives, 20 years ago I got someone's family photos from a once-in-a-lifetime family trip, they were really pleased, I made no promises, I also had the replacement hard drive for them, but the original hard drive was making a knocking sound, double bagged in a freezer, left overnight or few hours and then removed from the bags and freezer dried and wrapped in kitchen paper on top of the heating boiler and a few hours later, no condensation plugged it in and it came back to life. It was a fluke but they don't care they got the pictures back 🙂 I got the tip off the internet too!

[@jcon6734]

Great video as always. Word of advice though, with hard drives (mechanical or SSD) always try the software route first. If it's a hardware issue, recovery software failing won't prevent you from making a successful board repair. If it's something software could recover, attempting to fix a non-existent fault on the board could easily leave the drive in a state where recovery software won't work. On an unrelated note, don't tell my kid or dog that I said this, but your baby laptop might be the cutest thing I've seen all day.

[@InXsense]

Yes, and always is a good idea to try the software from the company of the ssd, I fix a ssd that work for 5 min. and then disappear for a faulty firmware, but to be able to use the software you need to use connected to sata to have the time for the firmware update, in usb was impossible.

[@tetsuoshiva]

I don't know, if the drive was showing symptoms of dying plugging it for a long time to obtain data might end up killing it for good even in the middle of obtaining it.

[@DragoNate]

the only problem with that is that, for a drive that's dying or basically dead, you have very limited time/attempts to use software as more read/write cycles can cause more damage, lowering your chances of successful recovery with each failed attempt.

[@sjm4306]

It's more than likely a software problem, where the controller tapped out and corrupted the table that shows all the allocations/mapping for the data. With the way data gets written and deleted it needs to keep track of segmentation of data but if that table gets trashed then deciphering what goes where and in what order is pretty much impossible.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks for the info SJM 👍 Looking at SATAFIRM S11 problems on Google suggest it is quite a common failure on these Phison chips. Apparently you can put firmware back onto it which will allow the SSD to work again, but the data will be erased. Hope you keeping well 👍

[@sjm4306]

@@Mymatevince Thanks, hope you've been well too. Keep up the interesting repair content!

[@stevemartyn203]

@@Mymatevince Hi Vince. Bit off topic but can I ask what make/model of the pc is? It would come in handy for my workshop. Thanks 👍

[@Mymatevince]

@@stevemartyn203 That is a 'GPD Pocket' Steve. I think they have released a couple more versions since that one 👍

[@patrickday4206]

Yeah it records all the bad blocks any corruption would make notes where everything is like a map. Nsa could make sense of it 😂

[@leenewby2563]

Hi Vince. Just watched :( .......No worries, thanks for trying ...... What brand of hard drive dock are you using? I couldn't even get it to show up at all. the video has only been up 30 minutes and there are already some program suggestions and tricks in the comments that I could try when I get the drive back. Thanks again for trying. ......

[@jeffishere8425]

did you ever get your data back?

[@leenewby2563]

@@jeffishere8425 Yes and NO ... The drive ended up being destroyed. .... But luckily, I did get the important data back, as I found out a few months later the computer had been automatically backing up to my wife's Onedrive account.

[@danstone_0001]

The cap and resistor is probably a write protect, if you remove the shorting resistor in a working ssd, it may be used to write protect it.

[@nelsonmendes5008]

Hi Dan, i saw your comment and i have an usb pen that is not letting me do anything with it because it has write protection on and i can´t remove it...maybe it has that resistor blown.. do you think that could be the reason?

[@GadgetUK164]

I think if he doesnt want to send it away and accepts risk - I would be tempted to get flux around and under that controller IC and reflow it with hot air. Nothing to lose really! The fact it keeps disconnecting makes me wonder if something is intermittant somewhere.

[@rampak1]

Did you think about dripping freezer spray on the Fison chip while trying recovery?

[@dangriggs617]

hi Vince, thanks for the video. I know this is a little late but I was wondering if you tried reflowing that chip.

[@craftymulligar]

Mighty nice of you taking it easy.

[@hellooohowareudoing]

Great video. It also reminded me I need to do a back up...

[@richardhalliday6469]

Interesting video Vince, unusual content this one .( I always wear an earthing band/ wrist strap when working on such projects, static can be a problem )

[@Paperghost]

Teehee.

[@enoz.j3506]

Exactly, non powered electronic repairs without anti static wrist strap or basic earthing mat ,shows, haven't got a grasp of the important basics ,youtube has made everyone an engineer LOL

[@TheCalebh3]

Your thumbnail looks very Jagex-y. I'm diggin' it, Vince.

[@davidharvey4059]

What make is the little ultrabook? Looks nice

[@dddvvvzzz2012]

SATAFIRM S11 happens when the firmware in the Phison controller gets corrupted. There's a software out there to reflash it but it wipes the whole drive so it might not be of any use if you want the data. I Had a Silicon Power SSD with the satafirm problem and i manage to reflash the Phison controller and make the ssd work again. I'm sure this is a firmware problem and reflowing/adding a heatsink like others are suggesting won't solve the problem.

[@mikep3134]

I wonder if you cooled the chip if it would run longer?

[@SaccoBelmonte]

What about cooling down the Phison chip during the recovery operation?

[@80s_kid.]

i wonder if the phison ic is just gettinng hot and disconnecting, wonder if you can keep the tempreture down with freeze spray. i have an old boombox that needs fixing, it powers up and amp hisses but no power to the tape decks or tuner. i can't do it. £130 down the drain from belgium.

[@paultasker7788]

Might work better if plugged into 2nd sata port of a desktop PC rather than USB?

[@jcspaziano]

I know this is an old video but that Philson chip looked like it got really hot. Too bad yout didn't have the chip spec sheet to look up the heat tolerances. I wonder if after its been on a while the thermal throttling mechanism kicks in and disconnects the drive. Could've been work trying to mount a cooler of some kind on it to keep the Philson chip cool long enough to see if the data is viable and extractable. Just a thought. Cheers.

[@rciancia]

Vince, how do you know your friend has a Windows PC. ? It could be a MAC or Linux, etc.. the file system would be different . Just something to consider

[@dh2032]

yes, could be anything, NTFS, WIN31 WIN16,and that just if it a PC disk, and that even near a full list option?

[@andrewrae2813]

What is that mini pc you are using? Must be great for travelling.

[@makeitloudr]

Hi, I recently discovered your channel and it's oddly satisfying! Maybe because my dad knows his way around with soldering as well, now I come to think of it. About this SSD, isn't it possible to swap out the whole controller board with one from an equal Kingston device in order to check if that's really the problem? Or is that too easy? Marcel

[@andrewcollins867]

Hi Vince did you apply pressure to the chip to see if it was solder ball detachment?

[@Mymatevince]

Hey Andrew, yes since the video I have tried cooling all the chips and placing pressure on each one...no difference unfortunately. Apparently I would be able to get the SSD to work again with new firmware on the Phison chip but the data would be lost. These drives are only £20ish on eBay so it was the data that was important. Thanks for commenting👍👍

[@NeilRoy]

Oh yay... I have that exact same drive, same size and all. But I replaced it with a different brand, larger drive which I only use as a boot drive as SSDs will fail, guaranteed. Yet all my HDDs all still work. I think I had ONE HDD fail on me in my life, and that was two decades ago. So now all my data goes on one of two 4TB HDDs, Seagate which I have also done really well with. I still have old 20G Seagate drives that work. I'm curious, what is that external USB cable you used to plug the drive in? I could use one.

[@migsvensurfing6310]

So unplugging gets it to work a bit. Have you tried cooling down the drive ?

[@Carl-wr1dc]

Have you tried to keep the chip chilled while trying to recover?

[@martinthompson3940]

The disconnection issue may not a be a fault of the drive but the laptop your're using, it may need a permanent power connection like a direct connection in a Pc which is not reliant on the power from the USB only

[@nicoful86]

So what are they odds the guy who sent the ssd have a bad computer as well?

[@martinthompson3940]

@@nicoful86 You have missunderstood me, for the purpose of recovery a non USB power supply could be required, The SSD could be fine but has lost the MBR

[@michaelthomas3646]

@@nicoful86 can be pretty high, we don't know if it was pc or laptop, we don't know if the guy sent the usb connection that Vince used in this video, we don't know if it is the USB causing a boot loop with the SSD due to a lack of constant current enough to run the SSD, anything is speculation until we find out the facts.

[@michaelthomas3646]

I highly suspect you are right with your answer, sort of like using front panel usb on my fathers pc wouldn't allow my ssd in a usb dongle to work and came up with the same symptoms as this, but worked absolutely fine on my pc, and my brothers pc. hard drives/ssd's seem to need to draw more power/current than the front usb ports on a pc can handle, or I suspect the same with Vince's hand held device will allow on battery power. or could also be the usb lead itself. so too many variables rather than in a pc case using a pc case power and data cables.

[@funkyfilter8895]

Hi Vince......can you try connecting it directly to a motherboard using the psu 12v connector...the USB 5v is maybe not giving it enough power that's why it's disconnecting? Good day!

[@Ebolachicken]

What if you reflow the chip wouldn't hurt to try.

[@BuyitFixit]

Great Effort Vince. I agree with you and think that the SSD controller is bad. We can't fix everything! I'm not sure if a replacement chip would need configured with the size of flash chips, type, speed, and USB descriptors etc, so even getting a replacement chip might be more involved than just a swap. edit: Just an additional thought.. The SSD controller must be slightly working, as it does show up in device manager and reports the size correctly, so wondering if its the flash that is bad?

[@MayaPosch]

Bad Flash was my thought too. That the device still shows up says a lot, so it could be that the Flash chips are at fault, with the Phison controller trying to read from it, but repeatedly failing. Kingston is known for sourcing NAND Flash from a wide variety of sources, and reliability issues are common. Hope we get to learn what the actual issue is :)

[@retroaria]

How about buy a similarly unit and replace/put the memory chip?

[@Bwong55]

@@retroaria 55 seconds ago wow. anyways that would be an extremely hard and risky process as there are solder joints at the bottom of the chip which you cannot get to so the only way would be with a heat gun and a crap ton of flux.

[@MayaPosch]

@@retroaria That's not an option. One property of NAND Flash chips is that heating them up destroys the data stored in them.

[@vitor900000]

@@retroaria Many controllers also store structural date inside themselves. This structural date is related to how the controller will allocate data on the NAND chip. A new controller chip will make/have a different structural date inside with will make the data on the NAND chips read as gibberish.

[@WhereIspeak]

Hi Vince Could you have tried swapping the NAND chip from this faulty SSD to a good SSD board? I have seen that work before.

[@Dtr146]

Dude if he can fix this. He would revive a long forgotten trade of fixing SSDs. Because normally the nand flash or the controller goes.

[@PixelMaker04]

I, too, was about to mention testdisk but I see it has already been mentioned a few times.

[@BrianG61UK]

Why straight in to looking at the hardware? I'd be looking for a way to try and write a partition table to it and see if that worked.

[@krumbopuloskarl7019]

hey this maybe a dumb thing to ask but where can i get one of them drive wires like you got. hthe one i have has a power block and it just a pain i would love one of them usb ones

[@trovr]

hi, nice video. which tool size/name did you use to open that?

[@shadowplayer3000]

I enjoy watching your videos. I would like to see you practice reballing BGA chips. thanks for making great content.

[@lrrromicronpersei8294]

One other thing you can try when you have a chip that is running warm is to use your compressed air upside down to freeze it or (freezer spray if you have it) and try to keep it cool I know it wasn’t running that hot but If it’s drawing enough current that can cause your pc to power off the usb supply disconnecting the drive. Then when you unplug it and plug it back in it re supplies the power. Or a 2 into one usb cable so it gets power from 2 ports But nice try anyhoo

[@marshmellow377]

Can I ask what little pc this is?:)

[@jesuslovesyou5819]

@Vince I don’t understand why you don’t buy a universal reball stencil and reballing paste? It’s only a few bucks and you can fix way more stuff.

[@Dusta]

Hi Vince, the disconnect problem maybe a power down USB sleep, you can change that in windows settings under the Computer management -> device manager -> (the correct USB hub) -> power management tab, there is an option for `Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power`, also I would recomment using a Linux distro to do it there are loads of tools that may help

[@ovalwingnut]

Good call PG. Especially on using Linux. Also, plugging it in directly to a SATA buss (removing USB from the mix) might be a option. It's best to reduce everything to it lowest common denominator i.e. cut out the middle man :) Cheers!

[@JustaGuy316]

Yeah, even Gparted is far better than anything WIndows offers. I've saved the data off about half-dozen drives using Linux.

[@michaelthomas3646]

far more likely to be a boot loop with not enough current going into the ssd to power it up.

[@game_master_rukia]

try a different hard drive enclosure and see what it does. also try a program called hard disk sentinel and see if it can recognize the drive and tell you the health so you can do a surface test

[@gilbertbergh8980]

Nice video, which flir camera are you using? The pro?

[@TerryDeSimone]

*** - Sometimes you can get away with buying the exact same drive, and swapping just the controller chip.. will work

[@mdw1274]

The boot partion info has been deleted. As such the drive partitioning cannot show up.

[@reizendecamera]

I like that laptop, what is the brand and model?

[@lockjawbob]

Did you try the power cycle method? You have to power the drive with no data connection at all, not even to an enclosure. So best way is just the SATA power connector in a PC, leave data cable off. 30 mins on, 30 secs off, then 30 mins on again. This puts a lot of SSDs into a mode where they will try to rebuild their mapping. Worked for me a couple of times.

[@darkoldkid1]

what is the name of that mini pc you are using please

[@junkmauler]

How did it go from a Kingston to a WD Elements in the software?!

[@pulancheck]

What about this : you buy same model of SSD new/sh but working, unsolder actual chip that holds data .. replace with chip from problematic SSD?

[@Torchim49]

Hey Vince my external drives sometimes do the same things cause my usb cant provide enough power, im sure you have a powered usb hub laying around you could use

[@Gary_Hun]

Actually that would be a nice feature, to be able to bypass the built in hardware controller with a software emulated virtual one, so if the data chip is still fine, no problem.

[@adwhyatt]

that mini laptop is amazing - what is it?

[@ambrogaming5078]

hello friend, can you please tell me which laptop model is that? Thanks

[@paulisthebest3uk]

Great video. I'm sure many have asked this before but what netbook is that? Got an interest in netbooks and was curious

[@summerlaverdure]

if im correct it's the first generation of the GPD Pocket

[@conorwalsh9360]

Heirns boot USB, boot laptop off this image and ensure SSD is plugged in at the same time, it will allow you to see what files are recoverable or not without any repairs, can do a lot more with Linux but if you are comfortable with windows use Heirns boot USB and recover anything you can then go ham :) keep up the great content, absolutely loving the RR series :)

[@jostouw4366]

Do you mean Hirens boot usb?

[@phonemaniacmainyt5296]

Happy new year

[@Peter-yg7ze]

I got Linux Zorin and there is a disctool that easely can fix problems with "confused" memorys ,I have "repaired"USB-sticks and SSDś a few times with no problems . . 🙂

[@rectify2003]

Whats the tool called?

[@CristiNeagu]

Completely off topic, but what is that little laptop you have on your desk?

[@tomasbergh]

Hi! Just for your knowledge. Those protection mats of siliconrubber are highly isolating and can give really high static voltages on the devices laid on them. Here my 0603 and even 0805 can thumbstone just from the static charge... /Tomas

[@WoZYtaZ83071]

I dont know if you initialize ssd, but yes you must first initialize drive in disk manage settings, sometimes after that you must manualy add partition letter, data on disk are safe

[@markwelch1836]

I bet it will get closer to fully read if you put the board in the freezer. Keeping to cold may solve the issue long enough to get the data.

[@Ben4Real]

What’s that cool mini laptop called?

[@balazsio]

Hello mate! Can you drop the Flir camera type model name please? Cheers

[@l333ch0r]

i have some of the usb ssd connectors and one is faulty. i got a kind of same problems like you with a working ssd. its always good to have 1 more to proof its not the usb controller itself.

[@nxgplay6616]

I changed the format of my external ssd from mac redable to windows and I lost all my data. Is there any thing I can do to bring it back

[@Paul-ib5xv]

Hi Vince, what is your little pc?

[@EvilDarkHawk]

Sometimes usb chips interfere with certain data access patterns leading to disconnects. Try restore when attached via sata.

[@Emperor095]

Name of laptop ur used in this video and where can I buy it

[@Struders]

Fairly common issue with the A400 drives. The controller firmware gets corupted and make the drive unreadable. There are tools out their to reflash the firmware but this is destructive to the data! Essentially the data is gone short of sending it to a data recovery expert.

[@danteerskine7678]

I have several Kingston SSD especially the a400 model and I used them as external storage for my Google TV, they're all fine and as external storage , they don't need any firmware updates

[@compuprodurban1954]

Hi mate what sawt of camera u using mate

[@modd-seb9733]

I’m really sorry to bother but where can I buy the same FLIR cam as you please ?

[@almalaga3924]

please..i need to know what pentalobe number you did use to open it..because i want to open mine...and i have most of the screwdrivers...but no that number..thanks

[@oscarrodriguez-mk9lz]

Hello, can you tell me which laptop you use in the video?

[@reladaerahspu9016]

what is the model of his laptop his using in the video?

[@paultomlinson528]

Hi mate, I do data recovery and can help if you really interested? Could be bad blocks on the nand memory? I can try it on pc3k portable see if it's a easy fix?

[@walterroszko6841]

Vince don't forget to torque the brake nuts!

[@Read_Relax.]

Is it phone used as flir camera?

[@vitor900000]

The controller is bad but there might still be a way to recover the data from the SSD. You see, because the controller is bad its most likely overheating and triggering a protection shutdown. What you can try to do is attach a heatsink with a fan to the controller to keep it from overheating and shutting down. Might give you enough time to scan the disk and extract the data.

[@MrMaxeemum]

I've had success before by putting it in the freezer for 15 minutes.

[@vitor900000]

@@MrMaxeemum The freezer would only keep it cool for a few seconds. If the data you want to recover is small and easy to access it would work but for a large data you would need constant cooling. Considering that his index date is gone he will need to do a full scan of the SSD to recover the data with will take several minutes.

[@MrMaxeemum]

@@vitor900000 It has worked for me before. It's worth a try as it can't do any harm.

[@jada1173]

Putt it in the freezer with long sata and powercable (no usb adapter) You just need a little improviced computer, maybe put together by old used parts that you can put close to the freezer..

[@RobsBodgecast]

Connect it to a Linux box, after checking for any variations of the locked status (hdparm or smartctl etc...), you could throw a couple of lines of bash script together to disconnect and reconnect the USB I/O, while pausing/re-synching the scan repair and data retrieval.

[@WillCooke]

I had the same drive fail in the same way a couple of weeks ago.

[@RSCOZZY]

These Kingston drives are utter crap. My company went through 100's of them before they changed to another manufacturer. They failed really quickly too. They were not used in harsh conditions, nor were they stressed. Good video Vince, excellent effort, and very interesting 👍

[@yotoprules9361]

Same problem here. I had maybe 8 drives and 6 failed in less than a year. Worst SSDs ever made.

[@seanking7092]

I love watching your videos keep up the great work I have three Casio watches I need fixed and I was wondering if you could help me as they are very important to me as they are the first watches I bought when I was young

[@ConsoleFix66]

That 0 amp resistor was actually a fuse designed that way to blow in case capacitor next to it would get overloaded with power (short to ground) great job gg my boi

[@markthintie5132]

What is the Tiny computer you are using?

[@lwcyan88]

Hello Vince, may i know the model of your mini laptop?