Can I Use a Long-Hose Regulator with a Recreational BCD?

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@IonutParaschiv28
#askmark Hi Mark, I'm considering investing in my own set of regulators and i'm toying with the idea of customizing it for a long hose primary donate setup. The question i have is, would that be hard to route if i do not have my own bcd/bp-wing ? i'm not keen on investing in those now and i'll probably travel with the regs only for a while. Thanks!
#scuba #scubadiving #scubadiver
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[@IonutParaschiv28]

cheers mate! love the videos

[@markhammer6971]

I dive where most of my dive buddies don't use an Octo they use an SS1 from Atomic. They prefer to dive a long hose primary in order to have to keep inches to each other.

[@kennethjmcarthur2428]

Love the videos, Mark. My primary is just a couple inches longer with flexi hose. I use this as the octo keeping my Air2 reg on the BCD hose for me.

[@kennethjmcarthur2428]

I think it is a good investment to buy your own BCD. Many are great for travel and this eliminates the concerns about various rental equipment.

[@gerranfin]

IMHO in open water rec diving you don't need the 150 either. I use 100-106cm (40-42 inches) with a right angle on the 2nd stage. With this setup I don't need to tuck it in or anything, it just stays in place, and still gives me just over an arm's length of hose in an out of air scenario.

[@arm83221]

This is what I use for primary donate except with a 48” hose. My octo is on a necklace. Great for rec dives.

[@JS-ok9kn]

I have a really similar setup but I find the 100 cm 2nd stage on the right angle tends to drag at my jaw and cause fatigue. I was thinking a full long hose, 150 or 210 cm and get rid of right angle interface might be more comfortable. The longer hoses do seem a bit much for warm water rec diving, but a good chunk of what I do is in a drysuit so the excess length seems perhaps less of an issue. Does my thinking make sense?

[@gerranfin]

@@JS-ok9kn Absolutely. You have to do what works best for you. I probably don't have that problem since I'm using really small and light 2nd stages on my rec setup

[@chrisphilhower6029]

Hello Mark. What do you think about Retractors? I'm thinking about getting a couple. One for a BC Knife. And another to hang a Sherwood ST1000 on. Thank you

[@sammoyers905]

I have the 210cm hose on my rig. I am old school and run a short hose primary. My secondary on the long hose is clipped to my right shoulder D-ring and then runs back to staging straps on my single or double tanks. Nice neat system. Easy to slide my straps on a rental single when traveling. Hose stays put, and feeds nicely when deployed, with no dangling snag hazards.

[@kylefleming2171]

#Mark Hi Can you explain suit squeeze Heard it’s an inconvenience and also heard it’s dangerous Probably a bit of both but not finding a lot on it either way Thanks 👍

[@mickeykash]

#askmark Hi Mark, I love your content. Can you please explain the differences between diving masks with clear lenses and those with Contrast? And also what is with all that different color lenses - blue, orange, green et cetera?

[@ScubaDiverMagazine]

Most 'standard' masks will have tempered glass lenses which are great all-rounders but, the glass does have some impurities that can slightly affect what you're seeing. Better grade glass such as Schott Superwite™ or FE's Clarity has fewer impurities for a better experience and letting the most light in as possible. Tinted lenses usually do the opposite and reflect certain colours of light. What each of them do varies mask to mask so it's hard to generalise. But they usually filter out harmful UV rays or blue wavelengths to protect your eyes and reduce the effects of everything looking blue underwater. FE's Contrast lenses filter out some of the blue-green wavelengths of light to help other colours stand out more from a blue-green background. If you dive in temperate climates where the water tends to be green they can help reduce the green light come in so you can focus on the other colours.

[@alecorrea7767]

#askmark When I go on diving trips, I typically leave my diving gear on the dive boat during the diving week, with the exception of electronics like my computer and dive lights. I only rinse my equipment after the diving trip. Is this practice okay, or could it cause damage to my diving gear?

[@ScubaDiverMagazine]

In a perfect world we would wash all of our gear after every dive but, fresh water is often limited on dive boats. I'll rinse anything with seals or valves like my regs, BCD inflator and anywhere a build up of salt crystals may damage. I wouldn't worry too much about your gear between dives, dive gear is pretty tough and as long as you give it a proper wash and dry before storage it should be fine.

[@alecorrea7767]

@@ScubaDiverMagazine thanks again Mark, this channel is amazing!

[@CopyRightJT]

Hello #askmark. When diving with a longhose configuration you normaly got the regulator with the longer hose in your mouth, right? So in the event of an emergency you take that out of your mouth to be donating much needed air to your buddy. Than you take the Octo-Regulator in your mouth and start breathing again. What I'm curious about is, why not put the Octo-Regulator with the shorter hose in my mouth in the first place. So I don't have to switch Regulators when needing to donate air? By having the shorter hose Regulator in my mouth I eliminate one more dagerous thing which is not having an Regulator in my mouth. Am I beeing totaly wrong here?

[@LeeLeatherbarrow]

Not wrong, and it is another perfectly acceptable way of doing things. However, there are two main reasons for the primary donate: 1) The gas source being breathed by the donor is 100% safe to breathe for the leech (out of air diver) at the depth you are at. Admittedly, this is not really an issue in single tank recreational diving, but could be an issue when carrying multiple different gases on a technical dive. So in that instance it makes sense to train in the way in which you are diving. 2) Studies on real life incidents of out of air sharing have shown that, in most instances, an out of air diver will panic and automatically "go for" the regulator that is in your mouth. The main reason for this are that it is visibly blowing bubbles and being obviously in the mouth is by far the easiest to locate. By diving with the one in your mouth on a short hose, if a panicked diver then goes for that one, it makes it all a bit more dangerous, when you then have to find your long hose, and get that into the leeches mouth, and get your short hose back in to your mouth at the same time. Far easier to take the long hose from your mouth and hold out for the panicked diver and find the short hose regulator which is right below your chin on a bungee. Hope that helps?

[@CopyRightJT]

Thanks very much. There are almost allways at leased 2 ways to look at things. Very helpfull. @@LeeLeatherbarrow

[@weed9521]

I don't need any additional training to use a longhouse setup?

[@redhood2046]

No don’t worry, however make sure that you try your setup once you get it. And be familiar with your setup before going diving in open water. Safe diving ☺️

[@tazccl]

e#askmark what are your thoughts on side mount diving with one tank?

[@ScubaDiverMagazine]

If it works for the dive at hand I have no problem with it. You'll have better stability and redundancy with a 2nd cylinder but, it's not far removed from diving a single cylinder. If anything you have better flexibility in the water to fix problems and help with entry and exits. The main downside is imbalance and you need to get your weighting sorted.

[@tazccl]

Thanks for replying I have a bad back and it would be for recreational diving only.

[@Tikki86able]

Question to all my fellow divers out there...In case of donating with a long hose configuration, is your buddy just floating in the blue afterwards, with no hold on you, or do you still hold onto each other,like taught in owd-classes? That is,of the buddy is not panicking/being combative? 🤔

[@markhammer6971]

They swim to the surface alone rather then hold on ro each other.

[@Tikki86able]

Thank you😊

[@thejamiecaldwell]

Ideally, the donor holds the hose against the upper arm of the leech with one hand, with enough slack so the leech can turn their head without the reg pulling out. The leech is in front and the donor is behind/to the side. In a tandem position (caves, wrecks, etc.) the donor may hold on to a leg instead, while still allowing the leech to kick.

[@geemac44]

My rescue diving was taught ‘old school’ and there’s no scenario that I would remotely consider allowing an Out Of Air Diver swim freely using my rig and God forbid, allow them to grab hold of me, especially as most OOA Divers panic. Old school still works best, grab hold of the OOA Diver immediately to take control, use appropriate signals to either calm them down and/or offer assurances that all is okay, share your air and control the ascent to the planned safety stop. If it's solely a case of failing to check their gas level pre-dive or during and they run out, then old school also works onboard on on-shore…tear them a new ars**ole and scratch them off the buddy or dive team list. I don't tolerate fools or DH divers lightly. I'm not OC by nature but I am, and have been highly OC in rescue situations. Saving the life of another diver by taking control means two lives are going home after the dive🙏Safe bottom and surface time to all👌🤿

[@MegaEpicLlama]

You can do either, depending on the situation. You might want to hold them if they're anxious, but you can let them go if they're relaxed. Long hose just gives you more options.

[@amadeuss3341]

It's pretty simple - you just make about 7 loops around your neck and it good to go 😂 I had a situation where my BP got lost with the baggage, i used octo hose clip on REC bcd to keep hose in check.

[@leopoldbloom4835]

#flappysnaghazard

[@phillipbuttolph9830]

Hesitant to post this...suffice it to say I have many decades of a variety of diving experiences and taught various levels of divers for over 30 years...here goes: Why reinvent what was logical and working? Seriously, I see only one person mentioning the donor of either an octo reg or buddy breathing needs to grasp the person out of air to control the process. In that context the person out of air should not be on your primary reg side [right] to protect the donors air supply. We dive rough, dark and cold water, where control of the sharing of air is critical, especially when the out of air diver is panicked [assume they will be]. One size does not fit all, and regardless of DIR/GUE etc, most divers don't dive off of boats or in clear low energy water, currents notwithstanding; so do what works and is logical with a minimum of gear and no assumptions that diver skills will prevail in an emergency. Stick with common sense and don't just buy into the herd mentality...Oh, octo on left side and primary on right; grab the harness/bcd of out of air diver with left hand which also allows not just looking them in the eyes and controlling ascent, but, gasp, swimming horizontally before ascending if needed. OK...not wishing to offend or preach, just my experiences during many, many dives and of course: "I could be wrong".