Can Lithium Crank a Heavy Duty Diesel Engine? || LILEAD Dual-Purpose Battery

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

What are the two extra cables on the top front of battery going to? These are a no go on many vehicles due to temperature limits. “**Please note that this battery does not have low-temperature charging protection in order to prevent loss of power in mobile applications. Please avoid using this battery in subzero conditions without sufficient insulation.” They should have mentioned a silicone heat pad will be needed too. It can fry your alternator trying to recharge them. I installed one on a 540 cuin aircraft engine. It started great, but would overload the little 60 Amp alternator to recharge after one start. The bat weight decreased from 26 to 4 lbs. Back to the original.

[@KuntalGhosh]

u can buy specific regulators for alternators that will limit output voltage thus charging current by alternator temperature but for aircraft use i will keep lead acid or eliminate the bms on lifepo4 , sometimes the engine can fail and then u will only have the battery for radio , navigation and lights and if a bms cuts of in such situation then u are screwed!

[@1dandandy1]

I also wondered about the other two cables.

[@SuperVstech]

Just wait for my review of this… OLD 7.3 cranking and cranking… love it. This battery can handle the loads! Now, I am worried about alternator circuitry, and cold weather, but with block heater plugged in, the engine bay should be above freezing for cold weather operation.

[@JosephMBoyer]

3:26 you can drill a drywall or something similiar into the empty gap to fill the void. I do it all the time on my batteries. sometimes it will dig into the post but usually the terminal is softer.

[@KSSilenceAU]

Heya! Love the videos! It's Interesting that you tested this now, and I'm actually a little surprised that you were quite surprised the truck started from the Lifepo4 battery, I knew it would just fine. You See I actually have an 800CCA 40AH LifePO4 Unit (Made by EVpower Aus and has 16x 10AH Headway Cells in a 4S4P config internally) in one of my car's, and it works VERY Well. I've even drained it down into the "reserve capacity" where the BMS Isolates it to hold about 10% left, Activated the Emergency reserve and been able to start the 3L V6 engine with ease. If my 40AH unit can start a car in the cold when its nearly flat, I would very much expect a 105AH Unit to start a diesel without any issues. One thing I learned about mine though is that the BMS is Simple and only cares about overall voltage. Crank for more than about 10s and the voltage sag will cause the BMS to cut out, i learned this while doing compression testing where you need to crank a lot. If you have an engine that is hard starting.... Give up at about 5-8 seconds cranking, Wait a few more, then try again, and that should stop Nuisance BMS tripping, or cooking of the starter for that matter. There is one pitfall with lifepo4 for vehicle use though, One thing they dont like is being charged below 0 Degrees, and that *Can* be an issue for those in cold Climates as the alternator will still try to charge, will do so at a higher voltage, meaning you either risk battery damage if the BMS allows it, or alternator damage if the BMS cuts it off (unless you have some capacitors across it to absorb the diode killing spikes). For my other vehicle, I'm actually about to replace the Dying Lead Acid battery with a Pack made from Lishen LTO (Lithium Titanite) Cells, as they are just as safe as LifePO4 but much more cold tolerant (good for below -20c Charge / discharge). I think I'm going to run them in a 6S Config, though not sure how many strings yet. They are 18AH per Cell, and good for Continuous Discharge at 50C, and Continuous recharge at 15C , so even a single string in theory would work, but likely i will run 2 or 3 strings to have a good capacity reserve. I'd Love to see you test some LTO Cells actually, and i see BatteryHook did have a batch of the same cells im getting at some point: batteryhookup.com/products/case-of-12-lishen-2-5v-18ah-lto-30-000-cycle-new?variant=39534812561570 If you can source some, could you do some testing for us?

[@aubreyj.tennant1123]

I have a vintage 1995 Mitsubishi RV with a 2.8 L diesel about 120hp I’d like to use one 200 Ah lithium battery like this to replace the 2 lead acid I have now. Is this doable in your opinion. Appreciate any feedback. I’m a little new to this. 🙏🏼😊

[@vtorsi610]

What happens when the battery is fully charged and the BMS disconnects the battery from the alternator? Is that OK?

[@jec_ecart]

Not OK

[@daveerrington5166]

The battery will get too hot under the hood and the BMS, which is the battery management system will shut down the ability for it to charge or restart. You would have to do a revocation somewhere else inside the vehicle.

[@lucforcegepat]

I don't think so, cause the alternator controller will stop the charge before, at around 14.4 volts like a lead battery. Remember battery is use only to start the engine and the alternator take the relay...In an other side, the battery will not be charge at 100% either...

[@ktcjosh]

If battery bms shut down and alternator was still pushing out max amps where does all that power go?

[@wadestanion4617]

Hey.... So... I have a 1999 Ford F-250 Superduty 7.3 L powerstroke.... I have been looking to get new batteries for this and I am wondering what your long term opinion of this battery in this truck is? Where did you purchase this?

[@osmanrahman9472]

Hi 😊 between a starter lead acid battery (AGM or flooded) and LFP battery, which has more cranking power? I mean which would provide more instantaneous peak surge current??? Please let me know...

[@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt]

Yup. A 4S4P SPIM08HP (12V/32Ah/400Wh) configuration (Li-ion chemistry) delivers 800A (continuous)/1,600A (peak). Cells, BMS and high current relay? About equal to a SLA starter battery at less than $100. Note that the BMS controls the high current relay for normal loads. However, the BMS is bypassed for starting/jump starting as a suitable contactor adds another ~$200. One caveat: Alternators are designed for lead acid chemistry charging. Lithium chemistries will consume much higher current that can damage an alternator. For this reason, charge limiting circuity is necessary. A BMS provides this, however, in my example above, the BMS is bypassed to allow the cells to deliver the needed starting current. A separate port BMS would work, however. As far as the LiLead is concerned, where it really shines is as a dual-use battery. 800CCA for starting, plus 110Ah for supporting "house" loads while camping, etc., while being charged via solar so there's always enough power for engine starting.

[@aubreyj.tennant1123]

I have a vintage Mitsubishi RV with a 2.8 L diesel about 120hp I’d like to use one 200 Ah lithium battery like this to replace the 2 lead acid I have now. Is this doable in your opinion? I could really use the extra space I’d save…Appreciate any feedback. I’m a little new to this. 🙏🏼😊

[@mc333777]

Been using LiFeP04 batteries on my Hybrid cars for the last 4 years. Hybrid cars does not have alternators, so they work well. Also, LiFeP04 has much greater capacity than sealed lead acid car batteries. My Hybrid vehicles puts out 14.4V-14.8V. So they are usually fully charged.

[@ktcjosh]

If battery bms shuts down and alternator is pushing out max load where does all that power go

[@offgridwanabe]

Awesome now come to Canada in January @ -40 and we will test it lol

[@johngrier5949]

What’s the limit of the BMS? does it have low temp charge shot off? How is the charging system set up to charge the lithium battery without cooking it?

[@vtorsi610]

What about High "under-the-hood" temperatures? Doesn't high heat reduce the life of LiFePo4 battery?

[@marktrabue9303]

No they can tolerate i own a company to make self heating batteries. So it's good down to −40°, and lithiums typically can't handle that. Also, it has bluetooth to let you know what the state of charge is

Two batteries in this truck is for lower temperatures. Lower than 10 F You can see this, if You leave only one acid battery in this truck. It will crank engine

[@ImbaCore]

It is all about voltage drop... Acid ones go with voltage way down so they need to push more amps to supply required wats. LiFePO4 can give relative less amps but the voltage will be higher. You can hear the difference.

[@JosephMBoyer]

just about to comment this, yes voltage does not drop like the lead acid did.

[@jamesbtri]

Did you say it read over load and litium iron?

[@KuntalGhosh]

use a normal lead acid as primary starting battery and keep this in the second battery compartment for helping the lead acid start and most importantly reducing self discharge .

[@trollking202]

The Glow in the dark but in the daytime not sure 🤔

[@guytech7310]

Starting in the winter or cold weather might be a problem. I believe LiFePo batteries experience a voltage drop at temperatures below 32F (0C)

[@Tb0n3]

An F-350 isn't a heavy duty truck. Heavy duty means tractor trailer. There's a reason the big trucks have four batteries for cranking.

[@benjaminquinones1890]

Two years later is this thing still cranking?

[@HighTechLab]

Yes! I’ve been using it in the back seat of the truck to run the sound system and a 1500w inverter. It helps cranking quite a bit, although I still have the lead-acid batteries under the hood. These are no longer available in the US market, unfortunately

[@infl]

They have two batteries for more reasons than just cranking amps, those glow plugs have to run quite a while when it gets real cold. But you guys don’t have that problem 😂 What were the original ones, 700cca?

[@HighTechLab]

We had 200 amps for glow plugs and with a 100 amp hour battery we have plenty of reserve capacity to run them quite a while

[@infl]

@@HighTechLab I’m talking about places where it gets like way below zero degrees F. I don’t think the battery would like 2c very much without a heating pad

[@xraykadiddlehopper8067]

Cool concept. But Have you tried to start the truck using only one of the LA batteries? My 02 Dodge Cummins needs both LEs to start. Cummins has a fuel heater and not glow plugs. 🤔

[@HighTechLab]

It absolutely takes both LEAD batteries to start. My biggest surprise here was that the BMS was able to handle the current more so than the cells.

[@HighTechLab]

It is a cool concept that this is possible. Most of the time we consider lfp to be deep cycle only and never starting duty.

[@seanathanq]

I would love to see a tear down of this battery, I have been wanting to build my own LiFePo4 battery for my truck, I live in Texas and it's rarely below 32f I have don't some research and it appears most gas engines pull 100-250a while starting

[@JP-mu3xl]

You saw his Guage went over 600amps when starting, his Guage went to OL (overload)....

[@rjl110919581]

WOW HOPE IN AUSTRALIA AS GOT A 24V TRUCK HERE

[@bobbypearson6258]

Take your bolt out of the cable clamp and saw in the crack so it will titan down on the post !

[@bigkountry29]

😆😆😆

[@jec_ecart]

Amazing. But the heat will eventually destroy it.

[@snivesz32]

Lithium batteries won’t take under hood heat. You’ll want to relocate it.

[@LawpickingLocksmith]

Clean the connector instead of waffling at the viewer

[@jaysonyang1441]

I would never use any lithium battery other than lithium lto batteries for a starter battery, 1 they don’t explode and burn down your vehicle 2 they don’t have cold weather charge discharge issues like other normal lithium chemistries, don’t buy these life batteries for this if you don’t want your rig to burn down

[@Sk8rdad420]

What are the other 2 leads from the battery connected to? 🤷‍♂️ Another battey😂

[@HighTechLab]

We showed in the video clearly that that other battery was disconnected

[@JP-mu3xl]

So, what were the other leads connected to?

[@djl0fne]

Not designed for hot environment and requires special charging profile

[@landonferguson7282]

That's the most current I've ever seen lithium do

[@mrmotofy]

Some now have 3000CA

[@hf2164]

Considerations when attempting to substitute an 'under the hood' lead acid 12v Car battery with a lithium battery. Due to the differences, like the limitations of current handling in the internal battery management circuitry and more about those. There are actually numerous problems with anyone considering using many of the current lithium batteries to replace a 'under the hood' car battery. Check out the presentation to learn about more. High temperatures under the hood. Can damaged lithium batteries. Attempting to charge a lithium battery below freezing can damage them too. I can think of a possible simple modification to safely get around the cranking current limitations. And circumvent cool temperature issues too.. but I'd like to build a test rig first, in case I share something which is not safe. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKuqd4aJnNCEj68

[@paveljelinek772]

Rip battery😂.. you can't charge 1x12V with alternator that gives 24V😂 maan it would fry the battery alive

[@jec_ecart]

Duh! Those batteries are in parallel.

[@patriotjon8535]

Thumbs down because of offensive ads.

[@craigjamm4847]

Fake

[@RayCasey2010]

ya gotta love red neck engineering. cool. get her done boys!