Can Starlink cable be cut & reconnected?

Can the #starlink cable be cut to feed it through into the house through a small hole and then reconnected? People suspect it's just a standard CAT-6 cable on the inside. Here's the result of my attempt at re-crimping and coupling the wire back together after cutting it. Enjoy!

[@weavercattlecompany]

Just some advice from someone who has installed plenty of outdoor-rated CAT6 cable. - The extra wire is the "sink" wire or ground for the internal shielding. You should use shielded CAT6 connectors instead. You typically wrap the "sink" wire with copper conductive tape around the outside of the cable sheathing before inserting it into the shielded CAT6 connector. Basically, the "sink" wire is what maintains continuity between the foil shielding inside the cable sheathing and the shielded connector. You should verify with a tester that the grounding checks out. - Also, if the connection is outside and exposed to any kind of moisture then you need to apply dielectric grease to keep the copper connections on the CAT6 jack from corroding. This technique has worked extremely well for my EnGenius Wireless Bridge setup for the last 4+ years. Of course, this is standard practice when installing satellite TV systems using RG6 coax. Personally, I'd install a single-gang outdoor receptacle with shielded CAT6 keystone coupler & outlet cover making the install look professional. Just a suggestion, try using a piece of electrical conduit or grommets when routing cable through the walls. Unlike copper water pipe, it doesn't have any sharp edges that could end up cutting through your cable. Even CPVC or PVC would work just fine but don't tell that to a code-Nazi electrician 🤣 Also, remember that every time that you add a coupler you lose a little bit of signal strength so try to keep your splicing to a minimum 😉 Excellent video 😉

[@martinkouprie5720]

Thanks. This video gave me the confidence to cut the line so it could be snaked into the house. Everything went well and there haven't been any problems whatsoever.

[@stringadati]

Grazie dall’Italia. Finalmente qualcuno che ha avuto il coraggio di tagliare il cavo e dimostrare che può essere messo in casa e poi di nuovo attaccato con i giusti connettori. Grazie !!

[@paolonannotti4617]

Maremma bucona quanto hai ragione @stringadati! porca paletta non c'era verso di capire come cavolo tagliare sto filo del cacchio per passarlo nei corrugati! Bravo GUY SUTER!!!

[@jerryrichardson5545]

Thanks for taking the risk for the team!! FWIW if you start from inside the house the connector is straight :-)

[@ChangingLanes]

Exactly what I needed! Thanks! 👊🏼

[@eagle2478]

Cool video sir thanks for this,glad it worked for you guys. We are a small family business and we install Starlink professionally for people all the time. Always wondered if that would work. Now you know it does.

[@muecterknigerialimited8533]

This is a brilliant idea i had always known it will work because research showed that the cable is same as cat6 own, another way round is to feed the other end of the cable (i mean the end connecting to the router itself not the outdoor antenna) since is not a 90 degree angle it should be able to go through, thanks a bunch for this video it has brought more confidence to those doubting before.

[@naxionman]

Hello from Greece! I had the same problem and fear but this had them dissipated! Thank you very much! It's so unthoughtful to have such an inconvinent cable end!!!

[@user-so4xi7ul4f]

Thank you! My Starlink cable was eaten by the lawn mower. By watching the video I was able to repair it and it works like new!

[@guysuter]

Those lawnmowers can be hungry types!

[@michaelsimpson9779]

There are shielded RJ45 connectors and sockets. CAT6A. Thanks for posting this.

[@mhardine]

this is the video i needed. thank you

[@Rainbowsaur]

Someone had to do it! Cheers for the info and your risk 👍

[@daletesson4630]

I had to cut my Starlink cable to use it on my RV. Already had a ethernet port on the outside of the RV so I cut the end off that attaches to the router, leaving about 18" to connect the router to the ethernet port inside the RV. I did use shielded RJ45 connectors. Everything works perfectly.

[@stefanhyltoft]

Thanks so much for this. Happy I don't have to use "Starlink Exterior Wall Kit" and drill giant holes to get that cable through. Hope they won't go full Apple and use some proprietary cable later on.

[@merterdir]

Awesome work

[@fmendezy]

Thank you!! from Chile

[@ldfGUSBOY]

Thanks fella👍

[@marianaochoaparra4920]

Thank you, thank very much

[@Floresta]

You could also try to pass the other end of the cable (the one plugged to the antenna), it's not a 90 degree angle connector, so it will pass a smaller hole (granted not the copper tube you showed)

[@guysuter]

It was also too big, but that would work for some people I imagine!

[@nychold]

I'm about a year late to this, but there are two different ends. The large one which plugs into the base of the router is stupidly large (no idea why they did that, especially if it's just a standard ethernet cable), but the end which plugs into the dish is MUCH smaller, and can be collapsed to about a half inch, maybe 3/4" inch to help snake it through holes. Still bigger than an ethernet plug, but much better. Also, I had a lawn care professional accidentally hit my cable. I was waiting on a more permanent install (roof mount, but the roof is due for replacement so no point in mounting it just to redo it all later), and the cable had come loose when he hit it with his lawnmower. Knowing that this is just an ethernet cable inside (although it is shielded, so I'd recommend using shielded connectors and jacks) means I can "splice" it back together and not worry about it. Good thing I didn't throw it away.

[@markstover984]

Wish I had seen this a week ago as I just drilled a larger hole in my house to get that damn thing through there. I was too chicken shit to cut the cable but as I live up in the mountains in Colorado, I need it to be able to pump the watts to it to melt the ice and that worried me.

[@royjimenez5405]

great, thanks 💡

[@zippy3931]

Thanks!

[@robalfano6133]

Perfect I need a short piece for my RV set up. Did you find out if that is a ground because I need it for a plug in and out for my dish.

[@MoveCax]

well done

[@Qspecialman]

I would suggest where the cable runs through the copper pipe through the wall, you clean up that sharp looking metal pipe end and perhaps fit some kind of rubber end. Otherwise in the future you are going have some chaffing on the Starlink cable.

[@shaneatkinson7455]

Just a quick note. For the shielding wire you need to use a CAT6A connector and coupler.

[@MegaMastiffman]

Cool nice job

[@briolewale7230]

Soooo useful to know

[@TheTwoTravelersInMexico]

Nice video and I'm glad it worked. I'm wondering why you didn't pull the smaller end from the dish and run the cable from the router to the dish.

[@guysuter]

That end is straight but the connector was still bigger than the hole size / conduit I already had available.

[@jayrowberry1530]

I’m looking to do this, but with the high performance dish that has a power supply in line with the modem and dish. Hopefully the cable from the power supply to the large dish is CAT6, too

[@steelman5862]

Great video - thanks!. It solves the question of whether a broken cable can still be used with a simple modification. It certainly saves on having to buy another cable from Starlink. I think you are right about the extra wire on the Starlink cable could be used for a ground (it's a rip cord). If you used shielded RJ-45 plugs with the cable (where you'd crimp the wire after pulling it back to go under the metal of the shielded RJ-45 plug and the foil shielding) instead of the standard RJ-45 plugs, you could ensure a solid crimped connection. Though, what you did works just fine as you proved. Nice work!

[@audiophilephile]

Better would be to use a proper Cat 6 RJ-45 connector with built-in ground/shield.

[@rileydj8764]

The other end of the cable (dish end) is straight and much smaller.

[@guysuter]

Yes, it's straight(er), but still a lot bigger than the wire and much bigger than the hole I had available.

[@pasoco]

thanks boy!

[@ze_german2921]

I tried to splice into my existing CAT6 wire to my new construction house which required me to ignore the shielding and ground wire. The router can not find the dish. Will I have to run a Starlink cable to the router? I also used the t568B diagram because that is how my house was wired.

[@travel8799]

Yes cool. I need a flat-cable for the Window. It could be working. I don't want to drill through the wall...

[@nicmarinos]

Really nice that you tried it out and worked. Unfortunately, I damaged the one end of the cable, as it was thrown from my roof. I was wondering if cutting the edge and using a different router would work. Maybe you can check it. Thank you!!

[@guysuter]

I doubt it. The Starlink router will certainly need to do some special stuff to communicate with the dish. Not to mention it must be POE to work, which normal wifi routers are not. Unfortunately, I think you’d need to buy a replacement cable in this situation.

[@nm85]

You can use another router as long as it supports POE, and put the dish in bypass mode

[@guysuter]

@@nm85 interesting! I may have to try that at some point. I guess that means all of the beam steering smarts are in Dishy.

[@rockessence]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIDSamNqo7CaoLs This man have made it. And it works well.

[@guysuter]

@@rockessence Love the wiring breakdown!

[@michaelpond6386]

Could those wires be the sensor wire for snow melt ?

[@ceciledelrey3758]

Thanks, amazing video! Can you give a list of exactly which plugs and joiner you used? There are so many options out there I get confused...

[@guysuter]

I think pretty much any of them should work as long as you have the wires directly connected / passing through. I used this CAT-6 coupler with a standard RJ45 ends / crimper. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091BBYMJ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1

[@jh9740]

Just found out that the other end of the cable which goes into the dish can easily come out too and it's much smaller so easier to pass through the wall

[@johanndork5364]

3/4 inch I think.

[@DonnaCouture]

We disconnected the antenna wire from the base and fed that end through the hole from inside the house and reconnected it to the antena outdoors and we avoided that issue.

[@guysuter]

Nice! Yes, the dish side is straight and thinner, it still too big for the entry I already had.

[@mikemitchell1307]

Thank you so much. I have the old round dish. I'm going to assume the cable configuration is the same . id like to take my dish with me when I go camping , but part of the cable is buried. cutting and re-attaching ends would sole my problem

[@frizz422]

you can just cut the cable and match the same colors up on both sides to make a longer cable. Or just cut and attach the connectors of the Star-Link cable to a longer CAT VI cable. You can splice the wires with (I'd recommend Scotch locks, if you're not comfortable making the RJ-45 connectors) pretty much anything. I wouldn't just twist and tape it up, as that wont last long. But any electrical connector will do. Just don't run it past 300 ft. His (OP) method or a similar one using the correct connectors/couplers would work best. But don't stress over it.

[@ralphbabcock]

Thanks for the video..but I do have a question. Do you think it would be possible to make my starlink cable into a y-cable to be able to use 2 starlink routers off the same dish?

[@guysuter]

No, I don’t. I don’t think the POE power or data transmissions protocol would support this type of hub / split setup which is more like old school token ring broadcast networking. I suspect the wiring requires direct connections between each dishy and each router controlling it.

[@fakdaddy75]

So the ground wire isnt required to be externally grounded ?

[@wamaw5015]

Starlink has generated significant interest and excitement in the tech and internet connectivity communities. Its promise of providing high-speed internet access to remote and underserved areas is seen as a potential game-changer, especially for regions with limited access to traditional broadband options. Is it TRUE?

[@wormchickenwizard]

Those bare metal wires aren't for grounding. They're used to collect water if any gets inside the cable. The blue shielding inside of the rubber jacket is what you'd normally consider ground for shielded ethernet cables.

[@rc-rvseabee907]

Where did you get the cat 6 wiring diagram. Great video. Thanks for the information

[@guysuter]

Just did a Google image search... www.google.com/search?q=cat6+wiring+diagram&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS931US931&sxsrf=ALiCzsag9wMlpsYdX916R8zjm1Jni0gPJA:1659469057781&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjhr9H986j5AhVFIn0KHezVC3AQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1085&bih=1129&dpr=2

[@CpuSamurai]

Please keep in mind if using these diagrams, B is the standard now, not A , A is still used by some telco companies and government facilities, however any new installation as well as any pre-made cables you buy from the stores will use B as the standard.

[@ronschmidt9852]

Did you have anh POE power problems to the antenna motors afterwards?

[@guysuter]

Haven’t had any issues myself

[@jessicaboykin]

Sweet! Is there a drain wire in the Starlink cable? If so, what did you do with it?

[@guysuter]

No drain wire, just the standard 8 ethernet copper wires and one additional metal wire that is likely a ground.

[@MrZanyZain]

@@guysuter that is the drain wire

[@TinyWorkshop]

nice to hear, is the connection still performing well?

[@guysuter]

So far, so good

[@Wildlos76]

Looks like gen 2 but wanted to confirm is your starlink a gen2? Wondering because a few forums that I've read say that gen 1 cable is different then gen 2. Can you confirm this for me. Thanks

[@guysuter]

Yes, it’s the rectangular current Gen 2 version. I think Gen 1 might have had standard Cat-6 style ends.

[@The_Native_wolfAK]

Has it disconnected when you modified the cable? Wondering if CAT 8 will work with the starlink connectors then using it on the starlink router and the dish.

[@guysuter]

I haven’t had any issues

[@annamuldoon6644]

I’m wondering if you can splice in a section of cable to make the entire cable longer. I had to order a 150’ cable to get free from obstructions but could use a little more length to get completely out of the woods. I have the original 75’ cable.

[@guysuter]

Probably, although there will likely be some max range the signal and power can effectively travel. I think someone else in this thread did something similar to what your suggesting and HS success.

[@annamuldoon6644]

Thanks!

[@evansbj91]

Cat 6 has a working range of 300’. Problem lies with how much power dishy uses in the winter to deice. I’ve read it’s more than normal Poe currents. I’m sure you’d be fine extending it some.

[@norvinsakiral4450]

You can actually put POE injector of 48v and put the other end to any Router.

[@BarnabasConnection]

I like your comment. Could you explain further.

[@basketballjones6782]

Yep. Twisting a 22 gauge shield wire together will certainly give you all the wire needed to conduct and protect everything from a trillion watts of energy from a lightning strike.

[@guysuter]

1.21 gigawatts, actually

[@steveanderson9290]

Actually, the primary purpose of grounding rooftop equipment is to prevent the elevated structure from being hit in the first place by continuously draining to ground ionization potential that collects at or near the structure. Lightning requires an ionized path to be formed before it can strike. If you make it impossible for it form a path to your stuff through grounding, it is likely to find somewhere else less well grounded to strike, so that little wire, if it is indeed intended to supply a ground to the Starlink dish, serves the purpose just fine. If you take a direct hit despite your efforts, no conductor of any practical size is going to prevent severe damage.

[@rb8049]

You should use metal connectors and junction box. Then ground goes to the metal.

[@MrTheparry87]

Hello from Italy! If I’m not wrong, the two sides of Ethernet cable you crimped are in T-568A (Green White / Green / Orange White / Blue / Blue White / Orange / Brown White / Brown) while Starlink has a different sequence (T-568B, Orange White / Orange / Green White / Blue / Blue White / Green / Brown White / Brown). I can’t find any other information about that and I have to repeat the work in my Rv, could you please confirm that? Thank you!

[@guysuter]

I just did the standard Ethernet sequence but it shouldn’t really matter since the connection is just a pass through. As long as each wire is going to the same one on both sides of the coupler I think it would work.

[@bokbok454]

How did you handle the ground wire? Cut my wire by accident and trying to repair

[@guysuter]

I just twisted it together by leaving enough when I cut the other part of the wire.

[@ColonelSmurf]

your copper pipe appears to angle down into the wall, so if your box ever leaks water it will pool into the home, second, no gorunding at all which is a bigh problem I see in all these installs. Not only should the dish mount be grounded for static discharge, but the cable itself should be also to hopefully prevent a lightning hit making it into the house.

[@docfez3244]

does the SL dish still able to move/function when looking for signal or relocated.

[@guysuter]

Mine functions normally

[@br5927]

any concerns about the gen2 deicing power draw up to 150w, does the regular cat6 patch can handle the electrical load ?

[@justinshapovalov8116]

I also want to know this, good question.

[@guysuter]

Good question! I've seen some videos that measure the power draw at roughly 100W and up to 150W (during snow). That's more than PoE++ (4PPoE), which maxes at 90W. I'm thinking I may swap the cat6 coupler out for one rated at that level at least. This would be a good question for an EE, but my interpretation is Starlink is doing their own proprietary flavor of PoE that runs higher wattage. I don't really see anything in the materials that seems like it would create electrical risk. That said, proceed at your own risk both on the warranty and electrical impacts. So far, mine has been running great and nothing is getting hot or anything.

[@justinshapovalov8116]

Thank you, Guy. I appreciate you sharing your experience and expertise. I received my kit today, will be taking the plunge to splice in direct bury cat6 and run about 240ft.

[@guysuter]

@@justinshapovalov8116 I'll be really interested to hear how it works at that cable run distance! I saw Starlink sells a 150ft version so I'm sure it'd work at that distance at least. Good luck!

[@justinshapovalov8116]

So far so good with my direct bury 240' Ethernet cable with outdoor couplers near termination points. Installed Sunday and so far only one 14 second outage today in the afternoon. I'll have to see if the heat feature works properly this winter if needed. I'm sure that is when it draws the most watts.

[@ramosel]

You could also get RJ45 ends with shields and a coupler with shields so you wouldn't have to "twist" the drain wires together.

[@GodsGoofiestArsonist]

I have a question. Im using the RV starlink kit and needed to run the antenna quite a bit away from my home as there are pine trees everywhere. I bought two 150ft cables and used this video as my guide for joining the two cables. I followed your instructions with the coupler and the ground wire but my connection blips in and out constantly and now barely turns on. Why is it doing that? Is the distance too much or could I have messed up with the wiring?

[@guysuter]

I think those are the two most likely factors. However, I think POE is supposed to work up to ~300 feet, so I wouldn't think the length would be a problem as long as the type of ethernet wire you're using supports it. FWIW, mine works whether the metal wire is connected through or not. Good luck!

[@narnianut1]

I believe 159ft is the max supported length.

[@user-bb9cn9vi9t]

I would use high quality solid copper cat5 or cat6@@guysuter do not use home depot riser cat 5

[@cerecedessquad6806]

Yeah I’m not the only one who sticks em on chimneys

[@hesanyousif]

Great job Guy! Just bought a Starlink system and I'll be damned if I'm paying over £100 for a longer cable! Do we think they are still shipping those cables as CAT6 now?

[@guysuter]

That’s my guess, haven’t seen any news on updates to the standard version

[@hesanyousif]

@@guysuter Awesome! Thank you, will let you know how it goes :)

[@misha1533]

Would it be working with heating on? Had some hesitation about that idea

[@guysuter]

Honestly, I'm not sure what impact it may have. I'd think it would be fine since all POE has a wattage limit anyway as far as I know. I live in Michigan though, so I'll try to remember to take a look when we have snow this winter and post an update.

[@OffGridAussiePrepper]

u used the wrong type of rj45's, the ones to use are called "shielded rj45" and the screen wire u twisted together at the end is to stop outside interferences screwing up the data signal between dishy and the router. Anyone can cut the cable and rejoin it with solder, soldering iron and heatshrink so long as match the colours. Shorter the cable the better performance.

[@victornedamo2883]

How many wire the starlink cable 6 wire different color

[@kayakwesty]

The answer is depends. Latest Starlink update looks for voltage drop. If you are below it starts giving network errors and cable reconnect messages

[@guysuter]

I haven’t gotten any errors

[@kayakwesty]

@@guysuter Like I said...depends

[@garrith222]

So, you could also run the other end of the cable through. It collapses and doesn’t have the same size problem as the big end. I JUST learned this!!! Ugh.

[@randymiller9312]

Can you disconnect and reconnect the cable on the antenna end? That is a much smaller connector and not much larger than the cable itself.

[@guysuter]

It's basically the same width on both sides (and much larger than the cable itself or the whole I had). But yet, you can disconnect on both ends.

[@MikePriornz]

@@guysuter The router end is heaps bigger on the Starlink product we got last week in New Zealand. I would if we tried to thread the router end though the hole would need to be 40mm. The aerial end is about 22mm.

[@guysuter]

@@MikePriornz Yup, it’s smaller but nowhere near as small as the conduit I had or the size of the wire itself.

[@jasongoodwin8702]

You need a 3/4 inch hole for the antenna end vs 1 inch hold for the router end for the rectangle dish.

[@guysuter]

@@jasongoodwin8702 yup, that was an option, I went this direction to use the space I already had open

[@marcosgomez1026]

Take the cable of the dish, it is a lot more slim on top,run it thru the wall from inside the house, no need to cuatthe cble at all

[@guysuter]

Yes, it is slimmer but didn’t fit in the hole I already had and I didn’t want to make a bigger one.

[@user-bb9cn9vi9t]

plus a great way to extend the cable if your short.....@@guysuter

[@megancarvalhobeer3022]

Tried wiring A and B on the gen 2. First test I did the buffer wire wasn’t connected, then I tried connecting the buffer wire. Both failed. Should I use the shielded rj45?

[@guysuter]

As long as your wiring version is the same on both ends and you have a good coupler, it should work. I just redid my connections this weekend to put in a larger outdoor box (to fit wifi 6e router) and everything worked fine again.

[@megancarvalhobeer3022]

So both are the same wiring on each end, and I’m using the same coupler as you did in the video. 4th test this time was with a shielded rj45 connector that had me keep a small portion of the foil so it stayed grounded. Still won’t work. Any ideas? Here’s what it looks like i.postimg.cc/t4PdNGnr/9-D8-E1-C82-BB54-42-E7-93-A4-70337846-F6-B1.jpg

[@guysuter]

@@megancarvalhobeer3022 Not really, should be pretty straight forward once the wires are reconnected to each other. Can you snap a picture of both ends together on the non tab side so we can confirm the wire colors / pattern. I can't think of anything else that could keep it from working other than a bad coupler, which also seems super unlikely. The dish is in the same place it was confirmed as getting a single prior to reconnecting? Does the app just say disconnected after connecting the wires to the coupler? Assume you've tried rebooting the router? Just trying to think of anything that may help.

[@megancarvalhobeer3022]

Same spot as before, just getting a disconnected message on the app as if it’s not plugged in. Tried rebooting many times. Redid all the cords too. What’s odd - the dish will move to realign but doesn’t seem to connect to router. So while it’s getting power it’s not sending the data.

[@megancarvalhobeer3022]

Ok so I ordered a Tripp Lite Cat6 Cat5e Shielded Junction Box, 110 Style Punch Down off Amazon and that worked. This will at least give me internet until the new cable comes. Tip for anyone - don’t accidentally mow over the cords while you wait for your starlink mount to arrive.

[@keweenawbee]

Hi nice brave job! I usually use the "B" diagram, and I think it is the most used, was there any reason that you used the "A" diagram? Thanks!

[@guysuter]

Ha, I didn't even know there was two... I've been using the B diagram for over 20 years I guess, haha.

[@evansbj91]

@@guysuter you used “A” in your video which is old school, not commonly used at all. Not the best for data. But atleast it worked.

[@guysuter]

@@evansbj91 Calling back on my late 90s networking muscle memory probably… I’ll start using B now! ;)

[@icmz73]

@@guysuter hi, any differences detected by using "B"- instead of "A"-wiring? thx!

[@guysuter]

@@icmz73 Not by me, if I ever redo it I will probably switch to the B wiring layout.

[@jeremykekahuna6685]

The bare wire goes between your solid blue and white blue or you can just snip it off as it won’t protect against lightning strike

[@guysuter]

Good to know, thanks!

[@terryeharris]

The bare wire is a shield. You could use shielded RJ45 connectors which a a metal cover that the bare wire connects to. Connecting as you did should be fine as the adapter would have to carry the shield through as well. You DO want to maintain it end-to-end. It acts as a drain (as it is called in the UK) for atmospheric and locally induced electrical noise which can impact speed.

[@guysuter]

@@terryeharris Thanks for the info... this stuff is fun to learn about!

[@jeremykekahuna6685]

@terryeharris Yes the bare wire is a ground wire and you use with a shielded cat5 end , but for residential installs this is not necessary, we only use shielded cable and cat5 ends on our towers for our Access points and Back Haul feeds but not for residential customers other wise you just create a big antenna at the cx home

[@peybackthis1596]

If that works than you should be able to also add length with cat6 cable too.

[@sethgibowski8695]

I just did this today actually. I have the original 75' starlink cable and a 200' cat 6 patch cable wired up and it works great. just make sure your cable run doesn't exceed around 328' or else you will potentially have losses.

[@mariofsantana3952]

Hi, Can you give us the Pin connections. I made mines and started with white/Orange Orange T568B. Can you help?

[@guysuter]

It’s a pass through the coupler so it should really matter as long as they all line up but the standard is what I did

[@mariofsantana3952]

​@guysuter Yes, finally got it. Since it is pass through as you said follow your passthrough from the Router to your coupler and finally to the Sat. Dish! Thanks again

[@sekaf4125]

I used the other end of the cable. It’s straight

[@dennishedrick5308]

Think you might want to get an outdoor rated IP 68 RJ 45 COUPLER...Just saying

[@tonyreyes1798]

I would have run the cable from the inside of the house to the exterior. Why ? The cable connector for the dish goes through the wall first to the exterior because the dish connector end of the cable is straight. If anything you may have needed a slightly larger conduit which is easier and more cost effective than cutting the cable and possibly voiding warranties. My .02

[@guysuter]

Both the ends are pretty much the same thickness really. But yeah, not exactly an approach for anyone especially concerned about equipment warranty I suppose. For me, not having to change / increase my existing wire path was the priority. Either way, it worked! :)

[@user-bb9cn9vi9t]

don't see how this could affect warranty... i'm sure you don't send the cable back if a problem. @@guysuter

[@fightswithspirits915]

Nice catch on the ground. You saved your gear from potential bzzzzz ccssssss crrrggfhfhfhhfhf bloop. I;m sure there's a cat6 coupler that has a ground connection?

[@vickvolpe5967]

568A or 568B?

[@guysuter]

Shouldn’t matter, as long as they as straight through… it’s only connecting a few inches of the wire through the coupler

[@ivan3683]

Why you cut the cable? You can unplug the dish

[@guysuter]

The other side was also too big for the opening I had already

[@user-el7kz8gs4q]

مرحبا انا من دوله السودان من القاره الافريقيه متي سيعمل مشروع استارلينك في السودان

[@user-el7kz8gs4q]

Hello, I am from Sudan from the African continent. When will the Starlink project work in the African continent?

[@GenericUserUnknown]

Looked like the performance went from 150Mbps to around 100Mbps.

[@guysuter]

Eth coupler shouldn’t impact performance if the connection is clean. My rates routinely cycle up/down by about 50Mbps throughout the day.

[@ekimandersom4478]

A bigger waterproof box and the starlink ethernet adapter would have done the trick

[@guysuter]

The whole point for me was that I did not want a bigger box. 🤷‍♂ Also, the ethernet adapter plugs into the router with an even bigger port, so I doubt this would really help in many situations. You'd either have to put the whole router outside and run power to it too, or make basically the same size opening you need for the end of the cable. I have an ethernet adapter I use to drop Starlink into my main Eero router.

[@ekimandersom4478]

@@guysuter I was thinking router in the box, but yeah i forgot about the power cable.

[@guysuter]

@@ekimandersom4478 Probably not ideal location for Wifi signal in the house too, although I drop my WAN into hard wired Eero APs throughout the house so doesn’t really matter in my case

[@foordya]

Aren’t you supposed to feed other end through? it’s straight

[@guysuter]

That would be smarter… in my case it was also too big for the pipe I already had installed / wanted to use

[@discotecasa6113]

FIZ AQUI DEU CERTO NÃO RAPAZ

[@nm85]

Spoke to Starlink support today, it’s a Cat5 cable, and cutting it voids the warranty. I mean not that it’ll stop me 😂 thanks for the video, saves me a load of hassle. “We do suggest using our cable and equipment as our Starlink has only been tested with our Cat5 cable and not with a Cat6 cable. Splicing your original cable that comes with the kit will result in voiding your warranty. You may experience connection issues from splicing your equipment which may result in degraded service.”

[@guysuter]

Interesting they told you it was “Cat5” which has a max speed of 100Mbps that’s below Starlink’s normal transfer speed. It might be Cat5e which increased max speed to 1Gbps but my guess is it’s Cat6.

[@roger5638]

Yes Cat 5 e

[@OndaYachts]

noooo, tape no

[@sgtwrench69]

I would have cut it run it in the house and then reconnected it

[@guysuter]

Yup, I did… the outside stuff was just to prove it worked first. I redid the ends after that

[@MikePriornz]

You maybe able to remove the plug from the dish as it is smaller, see this video kzbin.infojXZ3V3gRxxA

[@guysuter]

It’s a bit smaller than the L shaped end but nowhere near as small as the wire or the conduit I already had to outside.

[@grahamwhitehead5629]

you should of taken the plug out of the dish, perhaps read instructions ??

[@guysuter]

That side was too big for my existing pass through whole too. Hope you have a nice day.

[@brucealmberg]

Unfortunately, you timelapsed through the most important part for those who have never worked with network cables.

[@guysuter]

There are many videos / guides out there on how to crimp an end on an Ethernet cable. Sorry about this, creating that type of a tutorial wasn’t really the purpose of the test