Can't believe what SLICK 50 did to my engine!!--Dry Crankcase Test!

In this video, I pre-treat one engine with SLICK 50 and then drain the oil and run both engines without any oil or additives in the crankcase. Which engine will "lock up" or seize first?
Videography Equipment:
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This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC

[@acconboy]

Interesting note for you on this one - The formula for Slick 50 changed in the early 90s with the Quaker State acquisition of it. The original engineer actually sued them (Quaker State, then Penzoil, then Shell as the succession of owners of the brand) to make them quit using the original data and testimonials. The current formula (since the early 90's) that has none of the original formula at all. The original engineer actually sells the original formula under the name Xcelplus. It would be incredibly interesting to see a comparison of the two

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea.

[@cowpker4life333]

@@ProjectFarm be cool see an update video.

[@bradsims1933]

@@ProjectFarm yes, please follow up on this. I was also a believer and would love to see the comparison.

[@bradsims1933]

Does the current recipe have Teflon in it like the original?

[@heywoodjablowme8120]

@@bradsims1933 No according to Google

[@ericwaisanen8600]

It’s cool to see you still respond and interact with a video from over 3 years ago! Keep the good work up

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do.

[@gerryrice4848]

can tell it was 4 years ago. Thats a compliment. He's driven

[@Washman-jw3hl]

This guy has a true passion for what he does. Best brand comparison channel on YT

[@michaelmccart2971]

He is a true Gentleman!

[@danieldevito6380]

That's a person who REALLY appreciates his supporters. Instead of just saying that he appreciates his subscribers once in a while at the beginning of a video, he actually proves it. Protect Farm is, without question, one of the best content creators on KZbin.

[@peterpiper_203]

Lawn mowers must shudder when the realization hits them that they are going to Project Farm

[@ProjectFarm]

LOL! Thanks for commenting.

[@rherman9085]

Oh that is so funny!

[@HowardJrFord]

LOL

[@jonnyboat2]

PETER PIPER good one!

[@mymusicaccount1456]

It's like boxers fate in animal farm. All the other animals were happy that he was being taken to the "hospital", then he just never came back.

[@lawrencekokjr.1376]

I used Slick 50 in my 1989 Ranger 2.3. At 110k the oil pickup in the pan broke clean off while on tbe interstate. I shut it down and took it to my mechanic/friend. He called the next day and asked what oil I used. I told him Quaker State changed my oil but I used Slick 50. The loss of oil pressure had spun a crank bearing but the cylinder walls still showed original crosshatch. He ground the crank and bolted it back together. I drove it to 330k and sold it to the kid up the street in 2001. He is still driving it as a second vehicle with 495k and my mechanic/friend has used it since. Worked well for me.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@youtube4enthusiast]

I absolutely love this channel it's honestly why I'm up past bedtime every night sometimes I watch videos many times, I love the attention to detail.

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow, thank you!

[@mikerevello3828]

Love the detail also.

[@barnyardbrio7597]

me too

[@Subfightr]

You do a great service man, I really appreciate the time, MONEY and effort you put into this. Thank you very much for sharing (this applies to every video you produce)

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@Arariel3]

Have to tell you, I love the vacuum pump setup for removing the engine oil! I had to pause the movie to really look at that.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the feedback!

[@revhead7430]

i do the same thing with an empty windshield washer jug and a shop vac

[@orlandomah1186]

I really like all of his testing set-ups. This one caught my attention as well... not making any mess while draining

[@Obi1kenobi10]

I've got a pump the hooks up to my cordless drill. Works great. (I maintain 3 2011 Silverados, 1 Ford van, 1 gmc van, one dodge van, a Ford F550 dump truck and 2 tractors. I change the oil in all of them in about five hours with that "drill pump thing")

[@geekbruin]

I, uh, may have screenshot it so I can copy it!

[@ltbomb7194]

There is a product out there that sticks to parts like you were saying in this video. I know you know this already but alot of people don't. It's Zinc. Under high temperature, Zinc melts and coats the parts especially on a worn out engine. That's what's in high mileage oil. I know my answer is kind of obvious to people who "TRULY KNOW" mechanics. Keep up with the great videos. They are Amazing and very informative. It is truly an honor to have someone, like you, to make these videos. Thank you for your time with all of this.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@captainsalty56]

As a young engineer I was suckered into the Slick 50 advertising. During a trip across Australia in the early 70's, my car ran low on oil and with no shops in sight, I thought not a problem, the Slick 50 will look after me. Wrong, engine seized. Later I ended up in a senior leadership position working for Castrol and regularly visited their R&D facility in the UK. Very impressive, as are all the major lubricant manufacturers including Castrol's main competitor Mobil. Key take away from nearly 50 years of working with different lubricants, is don't tinker with what some very smart people have developed into their products. If the oil doesn't work for you, find the grade/mix that does and don't try to home brew a fix.

[@ProjectFarm]

I enjoyed reading your post. Thanks for commenting.

[@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi]

Nothing is a miracle product, but i completly disagree, ive torn down many high milage diesel and petrol engines here in australia that i or others have personally serviced and used slick 50 with. We tested it for on a fleet of taxis, and trucks identical models and engines all driven by a mixture of drivers day and night. And the almost perfect 50percent of the fleet that had the slick 50 in it every service had noticbly less wear upon major rebuild time. Again, its not a magic miracle additive, but its backed by some serious lab r&d. One of the benifits of them not working for a sole company like castrol, is they can work with multiple companies across mutliple brands and not have preferential treatment from oem manufactures etc influencing final product. ie its too expensive make it cheaper for us.

[@trevorwilliams4248]

Interesting, I have just commented on how Castrol Magnatec oil appears to have improved the cold starting on my Isuzu Trooper, it's the 3.0 diesel 2003 model which I've owned for 10 years.

[@lambrettaladUK]

An engineer who runs his engine low on oil, seizes it and then eventually ends up in a 'senior leadership position' at an Oil company. Sounds about right for any one in management.

[@Slugg-O]

Technically, he did say he was a student at that time but I get your drift. Anyone who runs an engine low on oil should not be surprised at a failure.

[@DeathTollRacing]

It’s great to see how much you’ve grown since this one. You started a great thing. Keep having fun!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you! Will do!

[@MrBillmedhurst]

City of Calgary AB Canada tested Slick 50 in its buses many years ago. The test result showed that initial operation proved good, but after a period of time, the Teflon in Slick 50 would crystalize and start to break off becoming an abrasive. Methinks that's not a good thing.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the feedback

[@deusexaethera]

There's silicone in Slick 50? I thought it was just extra-thick oil to improve the viscosity of old worn-out motor oil.

[@MrBillmedhurst]

@@deusexaethera I might be wrong, it might be Teflon. But the results stand.

[@TickleFingers]

I'm pretty sure it's not silicone. Silicone will destroy O2 sensors.

[@deusexaethera]

@@TickleFingers: That might be why Slick 50 had to reformulate when fuel injection became common. I honestly have no idea, just speculating.

[@chrishund3157]

In an automotive engine the teflon particles can plug up the oil filter but you won't notice unless you cut the filter in half. Used in a small rotary plane engine, the filter got plugged with PTFE at a higher colder temp and stalled the motor. The plane landed safely. The US military will not use PTFE in any internal combustion engine. FTC alleges that Slick 50 neither coats engine parts with a layer of PTFE nor meets military specifications for motor oil additives.Try Wynns, BG, Redline, or a High ZDDP oil like Driven or PennGrade 1 Green HP Oil

[@Spectt84]

Love your engine series. thanks for all the time you've spent testing for us. I appreciate it.

[@ProjectFarm]

Spectt84, Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@STOP_RIGHT_THERE_CRIMINAL_SCUM]

Yes thanks, you're the man!!!

[@grngs1]

I’m sorry I didn’t see your message yet but I’ll let you yeah mom I love you and you have a great nice day from being JASON

[@RichardsWorld]

I like how you turned that refrigerant vacuum in to way to suck out oil.

[@ProjectFarm]

I need to put together a video on this. It's extremely handy for removing ATF is accidentally overfilling the transmission.

[@bonnivilleblackcherry9745]

hahaha I didn't notice that. Just thought it was a mini compressor and was putting air into the case and blowing it out. Nice eye lol

[@texastyrannyresponseteam794]

potheads can identify.. works like a bong...

[@VijayBhalla]

I want to see this conversion video. Do post a link. I use suction pump but those are small and slow for oil. Need a powerful one and i do have an exact similiar air vacum.

[@joekenorer]

Blew my mind. At first I was like "Is he literally about to just suck that oil into his vacuum pump? You can do that??" Thankfully I saw his interesting jar attachment before i made any brash decisions.

[@Timinator62]

This is why I never lend out my stuff.

[@og1ie]

haahaaaa cough haha

[@dabosue05]

😄

[@billg7205]

Smart man. My pressure washer started leaking at the hose base fitting. Darn threads were tapped too small, so they only threaded the hose fitting 1-1/2 threads deep into the pump, and it broke out when the threads rusted. Workers at the factory were probably told to just thread them in enough, and not to crack pump housings. Why would they possibly want to go to the effort to tap the pumps a bit and ship a properly manufactured product? I threaded it back in a bit further but it's still leaking, and I'm not going any further and cracking the pump housing. I'll get around to properly tapping the female pump threads or reducing the male threads on the fitting some day. Read about a guy online with the same pressure washer. Guy was pissed when he lent it to his bro-in-law, who cracked the pump trying to tighten the same fitting to stop a leak. I'd bet that's happened a number of times with the same machine, with people who have no concept that you can't just keep cranking tapered fittings into cast parts.

[@michaelbarber5651]

LOL Nice :)

[@steverussell6642]

@@og1ie LMAO

[@mcrel284]

I really appreciate the time and effort you put into all of your videos, thank you

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@rscott2247]

@@ProjectFarm Years ago I used a snake oil additive called Bitron. It did show improvement after two applications with regular oil but none with full synthetic in my vehicle.

[@xZeroOffical]

Watching this in 2019. He's grow a lot since. But he still replies to individual comments, simply amazing!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@welcometoreality3450]

@@ProjectFarm military grade integrity ;)

[@electronicsNmore]

I remember that commercial. :-) Shows our age. LOL

[@ProjectFarm]

lol. Yes it does! You've got a great channel! Thanks for checking out the video!

[@ReapersFear]

If it’s the same commercial I remember seeing, the oil pan was removed and they had a continuous water spray on the crank/connecting rods.

[@johnhungerford6073]

I don’t remember the commercial lasting for hours😂it was a stunt and I assumed it lasted less then one second longer than they filmed it running without oil.

[@frydemwingz]

damn I remember that commercial too, when he mentioned it, that brought back memories.

[@mikelastname6469]

electronicsNmore Is that the commercial where they went to the desert and drove a Viper around a track until it ran out of gas while they took the cylinder heads off another engine running on a stand and dumped sand onto the exposed valve train?

[@mindtouchone]

This man does good tests and he's to be commended.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@glasswinder]

I do agree.

[@mattomite9097]

mindtouchone he needs to be put in line for sainthood

[@daviddowns7552]

yes he does some great test. ive tried to watch all of them when possible.

[@daviddowns7552]

that slick 50 power steering additive worked great on my old buick electra. no noise or leaks after 1st use. my car said ahhhhh thank you. 👈🏁

[@timothym2241]

A post failure tear down would have been interesting. What caused the failure of the engines?

[@bobdylan9117]

agreed!

[@stevenbrisson343]

Ain't got no oil in it mmm hmm

[@fredoatreides5104]

@@stevenbrisson343 I get that reference. Fine job.

[@mrmagdump9085]

Sounds like slick 50 just siezed the pistion against the cylinder. And the conventional started a wicked knock before failure, could both be siezed yes. Tho ima take a shot in the dark n say conventional one melted/ground down the races/bearings vs slick 50 which seems to have siezed on more of a low oil situation. Only way to test that without pulling em apart is to add oil, flip mover on its side, push on blade while hitting with a hammer "freed way to many siezed mowers with that trick" and see running condition after. Both will be on their way out, but I'd take a chance in saying slick 50 is in better internal condition

[@alan6832]

@@mrmagdump9085 Good idea. One or both engines might even run after cooling down, without even breaking them free, and I am very interested in condition after running dry as this is actually more important than time running dry.

[@elsullo2]

For what it is worth, in 1980 I tested the original Slick 50 by EAR in my well worn Ford F100, with 77,000 miles on the original engine. I tuned up the truck to perfection and changed the oil and filter, minus one quart of oil. The engine ran beautifully, a lovely liquid purrrrrrrrrrr. I ran it a while, then added the final quart of oil with the Slick 50 in it (after SHAKING THE CAN well as per instructions.) Within only seconds that purring engine went to a quiet HUMMMMMMMMM! I could hardly hear that the engine was even running! I ran that original engine with ordinary oil changes up to 180,000 miles and sold it to a friend. He ran that original engine to over 200,000 miles until I lost track of it. This is why Slick 50 has believers!...………………………...elsullo

[@romansroad2007]

They probably don’t make slick 50 like they used too now ?

[@joekenorer]

Sounds like a lot can attributed to a observant person keeping up with regular oil changes. That alone can net you many, many miles over the average guy who will tend to "let it ride" every so often.

[@gamingargamingar708]

Its a Ford with regular oil changes. Im not saying slick 50 isnt good but what i am saying is that a ford truck will run for ever if treated right

[@Stevusmaximus1]

10W30 full synthetique. I've been using in my lawn mower tractor for more than 15years, and except topping the engine once in a while, never had problems..

[@Innova_1979]

Yep, agree. I use 0w40 full synthetic (Mercedes formula) in my riding mower (B/S V-twin 22hp) and after 2 years oil is still golden. I also drop in a few ounces of Liqui-Moly anti-friction additive (looks like liquid graphite). No problems at all, good running engine.

[@johnl1154]

I raced cars for 12 years and always used 25% Lucas oil stabilizer. I never had an engine failure. That would be a good "oil" to test. Thanks much for a great video.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@A-FrameWedge]

You have raced and have not had an engine failure in 12 years, you obviously have not heavily tuned the engine because anybody that has raced for 12 years with a highly tuned engine is going to have an engine once awhile.

[@donaldeverett7474]

Yes try the Lucas Oil Treatment

[@klevee6076]

John L what part of engine oil is unstable and requires an “oil stabilizer” A fool and his money are soon parted. Lucas oil stabilizer is nothing but a non additized bright single grade gear lube. Using it does nothing other than dilute the additive package science has deemed beneficial and thickens the sump load. If you want thicker oil just buy a heavier grade. Lucas is utter garbage.

[@xfallofmanx]

Everett Morash now you know you could have said all that without being a douche, right?

[@scottwinkler2497]

I have been using "Duralube" for years now and swear by it. Very similar commercials years ago but I cannot afford to destroy engines to make a point or find out if it really works. My gas mileage increased 10% so I continue to use the product. I am impressed with all your comparisons and tests! They are well thought out and executed. Good information always!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for sharing.

[@MrTrustafox]

I'd like to have seen the slick 50 engine run with just oil first and the temperatures measured. Then empty, add the slick 50 mix, run it and take temperatures. See if there would be a drop with the same engine. The two engines might not run at the same temperature or dissipate heat differently.

[@ProjectFarm]

Mr. Trustafox, Great point! I should have established a baseline for both engines! I'll do that next time. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@atourdeforce]

Project Farm you really need to get two brand new identical engines and do baseline tests with them. but then most importantly run them both for a day straight with one having slick50 in it. because I'm sure I read that slick50 needs to be run in on the engine as over time it builds up a thin layer coating of a new compound that is where the real Val e of slick50 comes in I'm sure.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

MrTrustafox, while we can't go back and do a control on these engines, it can easily be a test done on one engine to see a before and after to show that Slick 50 really does or doesn't lower the temperature. It can be a test by itself without a torture test.

[@atlas3863]

I’d say the slick 50 mower Had less run time then the other mower based on appearances and the mower with tighter clearances due to less wear will seize up before an Engine with lots of run time and loose bearing,piston to wall tolerances. i’m guessing that’s why the straight 30 wt Mower was able to run longer at much higher temps without welding it’s self together.The fact that the slick 50 engine ran cooler proves there was less friction. less heat=less friction less parasitic loss more efficient longer engine life. probably the only good way to do this test would be to buy two brand new engines break them in the same exact way and with same exact run time on each engine to rule out most of the variables you get on used engines. and then proceed. but that can be pretty expensive test. even then there are unknowns. The temperature test with the oil in the engines sold me on slick 50.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the feedback

[@golfish8589]

I agree with newer older motor theory. I also would have like to see the newer engine operating temp with straight oil

[@mikeygee4564]

@Joe Cool but the commercial showed an engine running dry after slick 50 treatment. He was just replicating what they said could be done with their product.

[@mikeygee4564]

I agree. I don't think this was a very scientific experiment. Love project farm, but this one didn't make sense to me.

[@jalsr.speak2379]

I put slick 50 in my car and once when the engine low oil light came on I immediately pulled over and my engine seized before I got to the side of the road. Good luck.

[@NobleNobbler]

Caught my lawnmower and his buds watching this video in the shed last halloween by the way

[@ProjectFarm]

lol. Nice!

[@johnnycarson67]

S T O P ! It Stephen King for lawn mowers

[@NobleNobbler]

@@nik_kot Are you SURE DUN DUNNNnn

[@ronaldrichman8032]

Hey, love your videos, but i think your experiment for this video might just be flawed.The main benefits from using slick50 don't start showing up until after a somewhat long period of use. When its first used your suppose to basically skip an oil change to gain the best results. It works by Chemically bonding a protective layer to the surface of the metal, first by preparing the metal and then permacoating it. In your experiment, you did not run the motor for a long enough duration and temperature for the chemical process to occur . This might take hours and hours of operating time, but when the chemical reaction takes place, the motor will instantly run much more quiet, you will know when it happens.The dirtier the motor, the longer it takes to prep the surface. Another thing to consider is that the slick50 of today is not the same slick50 of the past due to a couple of law suits and patent infringements. The origional product is still currently available under the name Xcelplus, and the name slick50 today is just that, just a name on a product. But is it the product that John Bishop invented? FYI- I am not a mechanic, nor do i work for slick 50 or Xcelplus, just a nerd that cant spell.

[@duckmyass]

Yep, 1984 was the year Slick 50 changed the formula. I remember it prior to that and it even looked different from the stuff they are using today. Frankly using Slick 50 now is kind of pointless as it is no different than regular oil.

[@craigdonaldson6308]

I definitely agree with your comment. That wasn't enough time ran for the slick 50 to do what it is designed to do. As for the heat, slick 50 does what it says and the engine runs cooler. This demonstration even proves that. I would like to see this on 2 new identical motors and slick 50 time to do what it does. The motors in this video there was surely a difference in time they have been ran and how they were maintained. Flawed video for sure

[@pookatim]

Yes, something doesn't make sense. The Slick-50 engine wasn't even that hot.

[@jacquitaheidler6103]

Agree with all y'all!! I was shocked until I seen your comments!! Ty I will put a quart of it with 4 quarts of my regular oil when my daughter does my oil change.

[@rustypotatos]

does the now adays slick 50 work like that still?

[@mrm9858]

I remember those commercials when you can see the engine running without oil, But this results really surprised me. Good video thanks.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

not the original formula from when they did those commercials.

[@jaypeeztabernac851]

was that the same commercial that they used a fire hose on a running engine ?

[@heavymechanic2]

I remember one of those slick 50 ads using a 225 Chrysler engine, very deceptive. Those engines will run with a rod through the block for several hours... Can you try a similar experiment with LubeGuard?

[@mddlclsswrkr8134]

I had a guy give me a tube of additive called CLM he said if I put a couple of table spoons of it with my oil change it would improve my gas mileage , I ran it in my 72 pinto that I would drive from Seattle to Bakersfield CA once a month it did improve my milage noticably , I ran across a small mud/rock slide on one of my trips we didn't have cell phones way back then and the oil pan was destroyed ,my buddy and I decided to drive the car as far as it would go hopefully to a rest area, it was late at night and we where in the mountains , we drove that pinto about 40 miles with the oil pan peeled open and the oil pickup dangling in mid air my brother came with a flat bed trailer and we hauled it home, put a new oil pan and pickup along with a exhaust pipe and that little car made many more trips between Seattle and Bakersfield. I lost the guys number for the CLM additive and never could find more but it really worked, I used the last bit of it a few years later I would buy some today if I knew where to get it anybody ever here of it

[@Soshstar999]

Prolong works great especially with high performance brushless motors, I've personally tested it on 45,000 rpm ducted fan jet motors, and have made test on the exact same engines with a substantial difference in the standard oil and the prolonged engines and have found it continues to work great without any seizure issues

[@ProjectFarm]

Great feedback. Thank you

[@PromasterHOF]

Yes try prolong! In 1984 I was given an old Volvo that hadn’t ran in 5 years. I got it home and worked on it got it running, I had just received a box of prolong oil additives from the manufacturer I found an add in hot rod magazine looking for people to test prolong. The old Volvo had 105,000 miles on it I ran it up to operating temp pulled the plugs and ran a compression test and wrote the numbers down. Drains the oil added new along with the recommended amount of prolong. I drove it around for a few days to get some miles on the engine and the after I got it up to operating temp I pulled the plugs and ran a compression test to my surprise prolong actually did increase the compression in each cylinder by several pounds. Try prolong

[@phatkatracing]

You people bustin on him for his scientific level are funny. He's only giving you a reference, he'd need a huge sample of new engines but I don't see any of you givin him any cash to do such. So, shut up. 😊

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the positive comment. I'm saving up for new engines, but can't afford to go through too many of them. Thanks again!

[@cdouglas1942]

Yes, this is a regular guy doing an "intuive" test. This is not Consumer Reports. Many testing procedures done on YT lack thorough scientific prep, nonetheless entertaining and informative.

[@phatkatracing]

Project Farm You got it. I like your videos, they're still very organic, you're not bought off like so many on the Tube. Do what you can, have fun(cuz when you stop having fun we will too),and those of us that matter will keep watchin. 😊

[@golders99]

Maybe you should create a funding page so we can all send you a few $$$. So you don't have to pay for the motors all by yourself.

[@heyu349]

couldn't of said it better myself 👍👍

[@in.it.4.me..mine.393]

Love the channel bub. Keep up the great work and you are by far the best comparison channel ever and the fact that you have no sponsors and use all your own money days alot about your channel. Look forward to more. Great job really impressed!!!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@takmsdsm]

Wouldn't you want to run both on regular oil first to establish a baseline, in case of temperature differences between the engines without additional variables?

[@BilTheGalacticHero]

My thought exactly. Also, since they both look used who knows the difference in run time on each engine.

[@jimmyboe25]

He has changed his testing techniques substantially since this video. But yeah I totally agree I was like wait did he not run baselines with just oil 😝

[@w108jpw]

The SAE 30 engine was running slightly warmer during the initial testing because the hot exhaust from the Slick 30 engine was being expelled directly into the intake of the SAE 30 engine.

[@TheSunpro]

Good catch.. wonder if it really made a difference?

[@Deftonesdsm]

Avnett definitely would make a huge difference source=im a.s.e. certified in engine rebuild/diagnostics

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@Enjoymentboy]

Saw that too. Would have been a better comparison if BOTH were run on straight SAE 30 first. No way to know if the temps actually dropped with adding the slick 50.

[@cup_and_cone]

w108jpw I came here to say exactly this!

[@agostinodibella9939]

Like someone else commented, Slick 50 is not the same as 25 years ago.You should do another test with Xcel Plus, the original formula.That would be interesting!

[@68404]

@Ab Ba From an engineering perspective, that isn't possible.

[@PayNoTaxes0GetNoVote]

@@68404 - What a kill joy! Placebo effect?

[@G-ra-ha-m]

It was always useless, rough lumps of PTFE do nothing to help, and can block important oilways.

[@MURDOCK1500]

Good point. I don't know how much zinc original Slick50 had in it, but zinc kills cats that's why modern oil has very little. Maybe modern Slick50 is the same?

[@steveschutt636]

My question is did the slick 50 engine sieze or did it stop for any other reasons. It never cracked 300 degrees. It was at operating temperatures. I question this test without a teardown. The results are unexpected. The question that needs to be answered is why.

[@Vfh........y]

Invalid test sir.....

[@jonathonmccarty3539]

I wanna think it ran out of gas cause that didnt seem right

[@RogerStephensTheWrenchMonkey]

I agree...I'm thinking it ran out of gas, because the temp was low. A siezed engine would be hot.

[@tonydamiani7353]

I agree. There could be a number of reasons the engine quit. Just as there could be a number of reasons the earth is warming. real science isn’t just one and done. And it is because I say it is the engine should be torn down and the root cause of the failure should be determined without any doubt before saying Slick 50 doesn’t work

[@spokanetomcat1]

@@tonydamiani7353 Just remember this, the same people in the 70's who were screaming Global Cooling, Time, Newsweek, NY Times, Washington Post, are the same ones screaming Global warming today.

[@ray2895]

I use Amsoil 5/30 in my 04 Yukon Xl 5.3 429;000 so far. Made a believer out of me. Signature series.

[@ProjectFarm]

Impressive! That's a lot of miles

[@randyhunt1581]

I use Amsoil in my Harley. Tests I've seen show it outperforms Slick 50. Test results can easily be manipulated but I have not had any problems with it. Never had any with any additive I have used.

[@EatPezzzz]

I use whatever is cheapest in my 2000 5.3. It leaks pretty good, so when it starts valve ticking, I throw another quart of grocery store brand oil in. 410,000 miles.

[@drdysl3xia795]

What I love most about this channel, you do things many of us only dream of doing.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@johnnycarson67]

Ikr??? It didn't cost me a penny to watch 2 Small Engines ruined right in front of my face do test something that I would question myself

[@boydmerriman]

Worrying about mixing it up really good when the engine running would mix it up like a blender! Sometimes the engine lasts longer because it runs cooler. The long term affect of hot engines may be a factor of longevity. Yes, both froze up, but in the long run, maybe your slick 50 kept your engines cooler and giving it more life over all. Also, how long did you run the engines before you drained it? Do you know how long the Slick 50 testers ran their engine before they drained it? Maybe if you ran your engines with the oils for an hour or so, maybe a 24 hour run, that would help the chemicals in the Slick 50 bond better to the metal parts making it last longer.

[@waldonherdman1447]

Bought Napa equivalent to Slick 50 and my low mileage, slraght 6yl chevy truck engine almost blew up. Just my experience, others might not had the same experience with the product.Thanks for the test, i remember the tv cammercial too

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@docsavage6577]

Something else I'd like to add. I was sure you put the same amount of oil in both engines, but there was considerably less oil in the standard oil when you drained them. What happened to the rest of the 30 w?

[@simonrileyg]

I saw that too. Thats probably why it last longer ?

[@rawbacon]

Slick 50 engine running about 100 degrees cooler yet only lasted about 1/3 as long.........Something seems odd there.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you

[@johnhfox9213]

I too find the temperature variant perplexing considering the outcome. Though both mowers seem alike, there is no way that two used motors could be alike internally. While using two new motors seems too costly, perhaps two refurbished engines, where preexisting damage could be noted and repaired, or at least be certain that one engine didn't have a notable disadvantage at the outset. I think there was a cylinder wall blemish, or a broken ring,or a blockage perhaps. As well, the warm up time, with the additive in place and prior to draining, could be extended to as much as three tanks of fuel, which at normal rpm should last three hours.(This would give the Slick-50 time to fill micro pits and cracks, and to bake a thin coating on the moving parts.) But a very good and thoughtful test. You do a great service with these videos. Thanks 👍

[@joekenorer]

Doesn't Slick 50 patent to claim it leaves a teflon coating? If that cures properly I could see even on a microscopic level heat exchange would change a great deal, but probably with the oil retaining that missing heat because it can't release it into the case. It has to go somewhere.

[@danh7391]

That isn’t the most accurate way to read temp. If you noticed that when the engine is walking across the floor the temp goes up and down by 200 deg as the temp gun scans across the head

[@glenwaldrop8166]

@@HolidayArt fair point. The tear down would be interesting to see. The dino juice engine may have worn longer causing it to seize later. The lower running temp does say a lot for Slick 50 though.

[@tndeere]

I'm 51 years old and have never used an oil additive,just regular oil changes with conventional oil and I have never had an engine failure.Cars ,trucks ,tractors,lawn mowers anything 4 stroke just gets conventional oil for me.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for commenting.

[@paulthompson7594]

I'm a 61 year old diabetic and have always used oil additives. In my engines. ;) As a diabetic I have constantly searched/researched ways of maintaining my health. It has been an evolutionary process over the years. Lately, knowledge/technology are changing almost month-to-month! As an automotive enthusiast (hot rodder) I have constantly searched/researched ways of maintaining the health/efficiency of my engines. It has been an evolutionary process over the years. Lately, knowledge/technology are changing almost year-to-year! Additives are like supplements. Neither will work alone. The engine failed on just Slick-50. My neighbor developed a stomach ulcer consuming excessive vitamin C by itself. :o Use them as they are intended to be used. And as always: Caveat emptor.

[@dr.1291]

In the owners manual for vehicles, they say not to use additives. That's a bunch of crap they don't want your vehicle to last as long so you have to purchase a new vehicle sooner. If you research different additives as Paul Thompson said you should be ok. A lot of snake oil out there all it is is the mighty dollar they look at people like a sucker all wrapped up.

[@charles09361]

Please remove the tin foil hat and let your brain vent out for a few minutes before you post.. Here's a little business 101. If your vehicles don't last as long as your competitors, pretty soon, it'll become public knowledge, you know, from stuff like class action suits, internet focus groups, owner's clubs forums.. stuff like that. Most of what sells a new vehicle is the reputation that the previous models have built. Here's the real way to word what you said.. They want to engineer a vehicle so as that you're happy with it's service life compared to the price point. Failing to bring you " bang for the buck", will result in you buying a replacement from a competitor.

[@paulthompson7594]

Automakers have a minimum standard for maintenance to keep the warranty in force. After the warranty they don’t care as much. I’ve bought all of my vehicles at that point. I view manufacturer's maintenance recommendations as a base line, a Floor to start from. People will ask me how do I take care of my car? I always tell them, “ Read the owners manual.” that gives you the minimum required. There is Nothing wrong with exceeding the Minimum standard. Example: My 95 Astro van took AC Delco standard spark plugs. I replaced them with Bosch Iridium/Platinum +4s. I always look for ways to improve the life span/efficiency of my vehicles. Another example: Diesel mechanic, big rigs, used Lucas products. That man’s experience, my Dad’s, and my own give me confidence to use Lucas.

[@glennharrell1944]

Thank you for your fair and honest testing

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@WalkerBeeRanch]

different slick50, the original had teflon in it and was a gray looking liquid

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@danfalls3659]

I used the original back in 1990. It was gray and thick. I remember it have very specific use requirements. Immediately drive at highway speeds for 30 miles, something like that. Also remember there stories going around that it clogged oil filters because the size of the Teflon particles. Among the motor heads I hung out with at the time, the general consensus was to change your oil/filter after the first 50 miles, the idea being that the Teflon would have bonded to the moving parts by then, and your filter was now running in bypass due to it being clogged. Absolutely zero science was used to support that, it's just what made sense to us at the time.

[@wearemilesfromnowhere4630]

@@ProjectFarm The old Slick Fifty was a different formula than what is available now. There were legal issues when the company was sold. The only place that I know of where you can still get the original is Australia

[@Biffo1262]

Absolutely spot on. I always used the original stuff and never had a scrap of bother with lubricated surfaces with any of my engines. The only problem that I ever had was a broken valve spring which neither I or my local engine restorer had ever seen. My engines were still running like new long after the bodies returned to mother earth. The stuff you are using is nothing like the stuff I used.

[@TheHarleytt]

@@lifequest7453 I tried to find a distributor for bishops original and their is no U.S. distribution ?

[@N7492]

Great video, and great website! You do a superb job using careful experimentation to establish or refute the often dubious claims that manufacturers make about their products. A real public service.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@barrylitchfield250]

Okay, I used slick 50 in a 1985 Ford F-150 small V-8. About a year after I treated the engine with Slick 50 I was driving between Lewisville TX and Carrollton TX started hearing a sound that I had never heard before. After driving about 6 - 7 miles at 70 mph I noticed that the oil pressure Guage was on ZERO. I quickly pulled onto the shoulder of the highway. Pulled out the dipstick to check the oil. It was full and pretty clean oil. Had it towed to a Ford dealer to have it checked out. I assumed the bearings would all be bad in the engine. They dropped the oil pan, pulled off a couple of main bearing caps and checked the main bearings. They were fine... NO DAMAGE. They pulled off some of the rod bearing caps and they checked out OK. NO DAMAGE. They discovered that the oil pump failed and locked up. The oil pump was driven by a steel shaft driven by a gear on the camshaft. When the oil pump locked up the steel shaft twisted off, and that was the noise I was hearing. They replaced the oil pump and the shaft, and buttoned up things. I drove that truck several more years with no engine problems. I believe the Slick 50 saved that engine.

[@ProjectFarm]

Impressive! Thank you!

[@heatherbeane3234]

Wow is all I got

[@mazdaman1286]

Look up whatever happened to slick 50... very interesting

[@robertgantry2118]

Nah. Slick 50 was what killed your oil pump. LUCK is what saved your engine.

[@ngneer999]

@@robertgantry2118 Agree 100%. No evidence here that Slick50 had any effect on saving the Ford engine. I remember driving a Honda about 20 miles to the junkyard with no oil pump. No problems.

[@johnpapp92]

Here we see a young Project Farm in its natural habitat. Just kidding. I absolutely love every single one of your videos. Your testing has really help improve my purchases over the years. Every time I buy a tool I first check to see if you have a video on it. Keep up the great work!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do!

[@drosche79]

I rarely comment on videos due to peoples ignorance on here but you produce good content. Definitely subscribing!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@davidlaker1013]

it's people's, not peoples

[@roycezaro1998]

case in point

[@jjbotch2081]

You make the best videos. I could watch this stuff for hours. Thanks for all your time and effort!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@realflow100]

See if you can revive the slick 50 engine by forcibly cranking it and adding oil back to it. Then try to do the same to the regular plain oil engine. See if the slick 50 simply made the engine slow down quicker with less damage. DO IT!!!!!! I think the slick 50 engine MIGHT BE REVIVABLE It sounded much smoother when it died than when the regular plain-oil engine died. Please try it!!!!!!!

[@incandescentwithrage]

realflow100 Even if he can free it up, it will be scrap. The only thing that slowed it down was metal on metal friction against the bearings..which will now be worn so badly it will knock like crazy

[@ProjectFarm]

I agree...both engines are ruined. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@realflow100]

Did you try to dummy-crank the engine just to see what would happen? I've seen a lot of "seized" lawnmowers start up after they've cooled down and continue running for a good while. sometimes even right after it seized it was able to be started back up. it might just of need to cool down on the slick 50 one from piston expansion causing it to press so tightly on the cylinder walls that it seized temporarily. you never know. it could be completely free when you try to crank it. as if nothing was wrong. or it could be locked solid.. about 50/50 chance of either to be honest.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Good thoughts. BUT it still stopped sooner, for what it's worth.

[@jimfranklin9770]

realflow100 b

[@B-rad66]

I’m old enough to remember when Slick 50 first came out. I’m pretty sure that it was more than 25 years ago. Keep up the good work.

[@mback12000]

The first step should have been to take temps on the left mower BEFORE adding the Slick 50 to form a baseline and see if the Slick 50 really was in fact responsible for the lower temps. There are many other variables (ignition timing, carb mixture, carbon buildup, fuel quality, internal engine wear, etc) that could have made two identical mowers have different temps to start with. As such, the claim of lower temp because of Slick 50 (in this video) may me coincidental, not causal. Still an enjoyable video so thanks.

[@uncajim1]

That was an extremely objective comment.

[@chrismillard4651]

very good Michael.

[@solinvictus4367]

*project farm buying a new lawnmower* Cashier: Would you like to buy a warranty for your new lawnmower just in case it breaks? Project Farm: Hell yes

[@ProjectFarm]

lol! Thank you

[@gettintheresafelywithpatf2869]

Most definitely, and this is even at harbor freight, they will play your game for ever!

[@tonebonebgky2]

@@ProjectFarm gotta protect your investments don't you buddy lol.

[@HariSeldon913]

@@ProjectFarm It's probably in another video I haven't watched yet, but can you tell me what pump you're using to drain the oil from those mowers?

[@MrSGL21]

i actually read that in project farm's voice.

[@charlesmcgehee3227]

Slick 50 is much less a lubricant than oil. Slick 50 is an additive. The original Slick 50 seemed to me to be a lubricant. NO I do not see this type of demo as wasteful or gimmicky. It is a true observation of possible solutions to old problems. I'd really like to know what you think about the TurboTEK product. Thanks!

[@aemonroe2008]

Accel plus is the original slick 50 before the owner of the product took it with him but couldn't take the slick 50 name

[@n111254789]

I just looked for an accel plus and couldn't find it any where do you have a more specific name for it? I'd love to get some.

[@JamesSmith-fd9oe]

I do believe even though an engine with slick 50 cant run dry, it does keep the engine running cooler so that extends overall engine life and probably lubricates all parts that sit as to extending an engines life from the dreaded dry starts when you initially start an engine.

[@strwlf3]

@@n111254789 it Xcelplus but in the US it sells under the name Lubrilon

[@chris2790]

Did you examine the internals of both engines before the test to verify that wear in both were comparable? BTW, I enjoy your content, keep up the good work!

[@69mag]

I was wondering that, too. Maybe one motor was closer to the end of its lifespan..

[@kerrynball2734]

I would guess the engine that was more worn out at the start of the test lasts longer since it's got bigger clearances. Have to do the same test New Engine vs Old Engine without oil (Same oil as the pre-lube) .

[@philipklassen1039]

Have to agree, Mower with Slick 50 looks newer and less used. older mower has worn so tolerances are greater, test therefore proves nothing. A worn engine will live longer without oil then a newer engine. Never used slick 50 personally.

[@ic08jy700]

I think this is a worthwhile comment. Even so, I think slick 50 got caned here.

[@zepnuts]

The Slick 50 looked newer but the tyres were more worn? Maybe the SAE30 had the tyres changed? This is not a good test. If Project farm has some sponsorship or some income stream from Utube then an accurate test would be to have two brand new mowers and do the same tests, or if two older ones then strip them down and measure inside components to make sure they are close to the same condition. I like Project Farm but this one isn't a proper test. Keep up the good work.

[@HoUsEoFcAtS78]

My dad always had a saying about Slick 50. Its a slick way to make 50 bucks. I honestly believe there was a lot of truth to what he said.

[@ProjectFarm]

Adam, LOL! Our dad's are very wise! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@michaelmeisman4731]

In 1984 Slick 50 lost the right to sell the original product. They had to make their own lubricant and it does not meet any of the original specifications of original formula. If you want to try the original formula it is only available branded as Xcelplus.

[@katanapr3]

In the '90 there was a product that competed with slick 50. It was call Prolong, it would be nice to try that one out if it still available!

[@MrBilld75]

There was also Dura Lube back then too and it is still around. If Prolong isn't available then Dura Lube would be a good alternative for a head to head. Whichever new one is endorsed by some racing driver (can't remember who, but I think it's one of the Formula 1 Schumachers), would not be a fair test, cause that stuff is garbage. It's just mineral oil and a total scam.

[@celtichongy]

Bill Does Stuff. Another products from 80's was MolySlip.

[@ldnwholesale8552]

Many additives have been advertised as being able to run without oil. Bardahl was another. Temp was a good indication, the slick 50 engine ran cooler.

[@wetwriterrr]

Years ago I bought Slick 50 after being hooked by their ad, and always wondered if it really helped. So years later I now know thanks to Project Farm. And who said "A sucker is born every minute" was also proven correct today.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@seekgodfirst1605]

Lucas is the additive that sticks to the gears at the parts shop display. Also, the mower with slick 50 in it looks like it had 5 more years use on it judging by just the wheels alone. if you did one of these tests again you would probably want to inspect the crankcase perhaps even do a rebuild on both so they start fresh. Those kits are cheap. Thank you for your videos!

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point. I plan to use new engines to ensure a fair comparison in future videos. Thanks for the positive comment!

[@tomkore7865]

First, I really enjoy your channel. Thank you! Second, I saw independent reviews on "Bestline engine treatment" and was sold on it. I added a small amount into a Toro that leaked oil but ran well. The day I added it, about 20 minutes into mowing my lawn, the engine started revving faster and faster....then...locked up. I was hoping to help the mower last longer but destroyed it instead. Next test you do on engine lubricants, please include Bestline.

[@EatPezzzz]

A small amount of any additive isn't going to make your rev faster and faster. The carb blade would HAVE to open more in order for the engine to rev faster.

[@triviace]

Teflon one of main additives in Slik 50 has a relatively low melting point,it is also on the soft side for bonding to metal parts,while it offers a lower co efficient of friction[ice on ice] it doen't hang around very long.also I don't know of any car engine manufacturer that ever recommended any after market additives, ever.We sometimes forget that the factories do extensive testing to back up their requirements.The old ads were pure snake oil,one reason you don't see them on TV anymore.

[@ProjectFarm]

All great points and thanks for commenting!

[@dumbo800]

>tests on oil additives containing PTFE conducted by the NASA Lewis Research Center, which said in their report, "In the types of bearing surface contact we have looked at, we have seen no benefit. In some cases we have seen detrimental effect. The solids in the oil tend to accumulate at inlets and act as a dam, which simply blocks the oil from entering. Instead of helping, it is actually depriving parts of lubricant"

[@paytyler]

Would a car engine manufacturer ever recommend an oil additive that would help you get 50K more miles out of your car if it already gets 150K of life? I doubt it, I'm pretty sure they'd prefer you buy a new car at that point. With that said, I could easily imagine a snake oil merchant wanting to take advantage of people wanting to get that extra 50K, so I can appreciate independent experimenters like Project Farm.

[@mrromantimothy]

THey want to be able to sell you a car in a few years not the last car you'll ever need

[@anonanonymous1988]

All slick 50 does is clog your oil filter. Slick 50 is a scam.

[@TAShannon1]

I know that it died way faster (which was surprising) but what was even more surprising to me was to see the Slick50 engine running 150+ degrees cooler! There's something impressive going on either way. Assuming it is the Teflon in the Slick50.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@jjano2320]

I agree. If it was running cooler it shouldn't have locked up first.

[@TAShannon1]

@jjano2320 if ever there was a project farm test that deserved to be revisited it would be this one

[@rikityrik]

I agree. And just out of curiosity I wonder what the difference in the internal engine damage was.

[@wesdoobner7521]

@@jjano2320 No, it's the opposite, with a high heat the iron block was expanding while the aluminum piston wasn't, resulting in less friction. That's why it was able to run longer, even though the engine may be more damaged as a result.

[@makius1400]

I just recently discovered your channel and I love it! I know I'm late to the game, but I would live to see you test the Prolong engine additive. Keep up the good work! Cheers!

[@ProjectFarm]

Welcome! Thanks for the video idea.

[@ddoyle11]

I just found a brand new favorite channel! This is the kind of stuff I would have done and I would’ve got in trouble for back in the day!

[@kudu2222]

ddoyle11 I just found this channel the other day. I really enjoy it. He does a great job keeping the test as fair as possible!

[@MILODON77]

Me and my buddy Chuck did this experiment on car engines back in the 80's when we were both ASE certified mechanics. With the same result, you got. The Slick 50 engine seized after two laps around the shops parking lot. Disappinting after wacthing their miracle commercials.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for commenting on this!

[@jacquitaheidler6103]

I'm in SHOCK!!! Me and my husband worked on cars and resold them. We always sworn by slick 50!! WOW!! I have to do an oil change on my car and was talking about slick 50. My daughter fixes my car now my husband and sons passed on and I'm getting up there. Grandma in shock from ] PA!! Ty dude!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@DavidG-vq3bk]

Note that the Slick 50 engine is running cooler. Could it be that it is being cooled by air from the discharge chute of the SAE 30 mower?

[@roydean3070]

Yep maybe

[@mojomojo5779]

Good point

[@masiaworksreaper1358]

Bullshit.. Look where the chute is pointing. Not enough to affect the test.

[@ichdissdich98]

Less friction less heat

[@shaggys73]

NO ITS NOT RUNNING BLADES......

[@kevinoglesby8001]

I was always told if you use a good quality oil that’s all you need.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@ytvladnoob24]

And I was told that making the oil changes on time with good oil

[@vr6prodigy]

Clearly you haven't seen the motorkote oil additive episode.

[@ryanwyrick6947]

@@ProjectFarm this channel sucks... generic answers all over the place... robots? AI? or dont give af?

[@dronestarship9646]

@@ProjectFarm On my '72 350's I use to use slick 50, had no issues, I now use Bestline after online research, and I saw your video comparison also on Bestline. I have 3 - '72 Monte Carlos, and one is a 402. I use Penzoil (1st choice) 10-30, and 2nd choice is Quaker State, same velocity. But I don't race the cars, as they are everyday ones for me. 2 are backups just incase daily goes down...FYI. Sure enjoyed your Ethonyl gas video.

[@unclebs74]

Thanks for doing another outstanding video! I was very surprised at the results! I never used Slick 50 but was interested in see what it did, which would appear to be nothing at all. I believe Lucas to be the best additive on the market, having used it in demolition derby cars for years, so maybe give it a try. Thanks again, and don't worry if trolls give you crap about blowing up two mowers, it's your videos, do what ever you want!

[@ProjectFarm]

Casey, Always great to read your comments and encouraging words! It was a fun video that I've been wanting to do for a long time. Thanks again for watching the video and commenting!

[@Jumper1532001]

Project Farm how about putting Motorkote or using synthetic like Amsoil

[@MrZorbatron]

Lucas oil stabilizer is actually just a good quality assembly oil. Assembly oil is what you SHOULD use, though many just use motor oil, between all friction surfaces when you build or rebuild an engine. Its thickness and additional film strength provides superior protection during the initial start without oil circulation. Also, if you prime certain passages with a heavy oil like assembly oil, there will be less air in the passages to delay oil circulation.

[@benbennett3602]

The old story with the slick 50 was that after the engine cooled, you couid refill the oil and run the engine. Did you test that theory?

[@pro_moderngamer4943]

i would like to see a re-test done. i believe the slick 50 engine will turn back over

[@metatechnologist]

Nothing can perform miracles. If the engine did run cooler with slick 50 I'd call it a win. The test kinda needs a do-over!

[@rimmersbryggeri]

I remember some infomercial that mentioned slick 50 as a competitor that was running maybe 20 years ago. It was called DuraLube. Sounds like a personal lubricant to me.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@BrokenRRT]

rimmersbryggeri - In the early 90s I had a Pontiac Fiero GT that was in great shape and very low miles. Other than the stupid solid fuel line issues it ran like a champ. A buddy of mine his father bought into that duralube pyramid bullshit and talked me into adding it to my oil and gas. 3 days later it spun a main bearing. The old man across the street put that shit in his mid 80s dodge truck and blew his engine too I later found out.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

Im not at all surprised. Even when I was about 8 I realised that was snakeoil. Would be nice to see a proper test of it though. It's kind of one of those produgts the salesmen would drink and eat to demonstrate how safe they were. When you see that you directly think that its some kind of cult behind it.

[@markanderson9263]

There is a reason all auto/truck manufacturers will void their warranties if anything is added to the engine oil, nothing good can happen . Also modern engine oils are more than adequate if changed at proper intervals there is absolutely no benefit to adding anything to them

[@STOP_RIGHT_THERE_CRIMINAL_SCUM]

I think you mean to say dyna-lube

[@85Niner]

My wife let our diesel Jetta get low on oil and it locked up. I had heard that Slick 50 might help it. I had my mechanic add two quarts of slick 50 to the new oil he put in, the next day the engine turned over, no problem. It may not have been the slick 50 that did it, but it didn’t hurt it either, Wish you had added slick 50 back to that engine to see if it could have been salvaged.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point. Thank you

[@drwhat4395]

Once the crank bearings seize it they will continue to grind the rod bearings to the point of knocking and major oil leakage

[@matthewyabsley]

Most engines that sieze from eventual overheating will start again when the metals have all cooled down. No oil is going to unsieze an engine just from adding it afterwards, more the expanded piston and rings have cooled down to a level that allows it to rotate again.

[@mark-wn5ek]

Yeah...I more or less did the same thing once. I had this car with 388000 miles and the rods were knocking. I added 3 qts of Slick 50 before I went to bed. The next morning when I started it up, no more knocking! When I got down to the red light, I looked down and the odometer said 214000! I couldn't belive it! I was late for work and went on in to my desk. That evening when I left for home, the odometer said 112000! What?!! I noticed how much better my car ran...felt like it had 40 more hp. When I got home, I raised the hood to check the oil.....and the engine looked like it had been freshly painted and the valve covers were coated in chrome! That's not all....you ain't gonna believe this ... when I got up for work the next day......in the window was a dealer sticker....my car was brand new! I went back to buy another supply of Slick 50, but like the guy said, they had sold out and changed the formula. True story......hehe!

[@Executnr]

@@mark-wn5ek now thats funny

[@psychohist]

2 potential issues with the test. First, it looked like you got almost all of the oil out of the SLICK 50 engine and you only got 80% of the oil out of the other engine; having 20% oil is better than 0% oil. Second, SLICK 50 is supposed to have an initial application period that was 5000 miles for cars, which is probably around 200 hours; unless you did that in the lawnmowers, the teflon didn't actually get applied to the engine. I used SLICK 50 for a long time in one car; I don't know how it affected engine wear but it did improve gas mileage by 1-2 mpg.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the feedback

[@jebucha]

@@ProjectFarm Based on the information in the video shared by Glo Right a few weeks ago, the current "Slick 50" product is not the original formula for which we recall those engines running after being drained. That original formula is now sold under the brand Xcelplus.

[@danwolf307]

@@jebucha your correct! My friends dad buys it in the original formula 5 gallons at a time from a guy who has a bunch of drums he's been hoarding. He says whatever they took out made the new stuff garbage.

[@daverose8772]

Slick 50 requires repeated run cycles to build up and deposit it's proprietary anti friction surface. Run an engine for 20 hours on Slick, Then repeat the tests.

[@erickmischke38]

In 1994, I bought my first new vehicle. It was a 1994 Toyota pickup. It was stored all winter. I towed a bass boat all over the country (eastern half). This was with a 4 cylinder engine. I ran ONLY, straight 30 oil. At 100,000 miles, I pulled the valve cover, to adjust the valves, and the engine looked absolutely brand new inside! This can no longer be done, what with VVT screens and what not, but I couldn’t believe the power of a straight engine oil. EXTREMELY low viscosity breakdown. At 4k, it looked like I just put it in. I miss old, reliable engines. 😔

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@Flappybear11]

You need to open them up!

[@ProjectFarm]

Great idea! I'd like to see the damage! Seems like a great future episode! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@Wesleystewart78]

agreed

[@MaximusPsychosis]

i was about to mention that too, I want to see the wear'n'tear on these motors too

[@Rattlerjake1]

The slick 50 engine did not die from the extreme heat like the SAE30 engine, maybe the engine isn't too damaged, or damaged at all.

[@MaximusPsychosis]

@Rattlerjack1 I suspect baring let go due to "Cold welding" to the mating surface, and spun it. I would bet the one that overheated would run again

[@howtoanddiychannel2387]

This is honestly my favorite channel!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@egSmith-sp9gl]

The mower on the left has way too much negative camber on the front wheel , will need new tire and alignment performed prior to the test !!

[@Mercmad]

thats the high performance handling option, commonly known as the police pack.

[@LerrySanders]

Stance Life.

[@ProjectFarm]

LOL! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@EZRider1979]

But she's on rails when you hit the corners.

[@holton345]

That mower is clearly set up for drifting.

[@larrycroft6819]

Sean the commercial's years ago, as you said I had confidence in the product, added it to every thing I owned that needed oil. I never had anything lock up on me, but I checked my oil all the time. I take it back. In the early 70's I locked the engine on a 1966 VW Squareback Sedan station wagon. $500 to fix it ( Father-in-law bailed us out). But I haven't done it since!

[@Maybe-So]

I know it is just steel and aluminum. But, it still makes me sad.

[@thechaindude1320]

I'm sure he freed them up at some point

[@scottjones7279]

Seriously I am very sad when I see a machine mistreated but thought that I was the only person.

[@superchuck3259]

Race cars are beaten do death. This is the life high performance engines.

[@scootertuningfl2174]

@@scottjones7279 same im happy im not the only one

[@Centar1964]

From what I understand, small single engine planes are required to have some sort of Molybdenum disulfide additive in case of loss of oil or oil pressure. Maybe you could check that out...

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for this recommendation!

[@johnd4348]

I believe the Germans invented something to put in their fighter planes during WW2. My neighbor was a German airplane mechanic in WW2 and he said because the planes used leather seals for gaskets sometimes the planes came back with no oil at all in the engines.

[@robm.6825]

John D known today as Liqui-Moly.

[@michaeleverett2650]

John D American fighter planes used Marvel Mystery Oil during World War II.

[@ronaldwilliamson8803]

I really like this guy, he put out some really good content. My wife and I love this guy's videos we watch everyone he uploads. Keep it up man, now this is some KZbin. God bless you and your family from mine to yours

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the feedback!

[@rockyrigsby6369]

Prolong will do what your trying to show with engine oil drained out there's a video of motor with no pan or valve covers running and they even pour sand in the heads while it runs they even show bearings on a press treated with all brands of oil and prolong all the bearings sized up before Prolong check it out I use it and its saved me many times

[@MC-cl9ip]

Another great video. It would be interesting to see the same test done with synthetic oils like Mobile 1 vs conventional oil ..

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@wodnastj]

Amsoil especially !!!!!

[@jobiemosley7193]

Mobil 1 vs amsoil!

[@jobiemosley7193]

Better yet Mobil 1 vs amsoil vs conventional oil!! Do that! Much controversy in the field

[@pieter1928]

@@ProjectFarm i'm currious about DT 550 friction reduces out of missouri

[@chazfaz3595]

Given that the slick 50 temperatures didn't reach as high as the regular oil... is it possible that the slick 50 engine stops because the oil got extremely viscous, stopping the engine, but also preventing the rings from getting hot enough to actually seize/weld the rings to the cylinder wall - in other words, preventing castastrophic damage to the engine, while the regular oil engine became toast. I would be interested to see the results of a teardown, and how easy it might be to un-seize. Also, this version of Slick 50 isn't the original PTFE formula that was so effective. That product formula is now called "ExcelPlus". Also, the directions for the original product formula emphasized that the product had to run for quite a while before the protective PTFE coating would be established on the metallic parts to be protected from friction...

[@davefoc]

I had similar thoughts about the viscosity. I hadn't read comments when I made my comment above. A lot of good information in your post. Unfortunately it suggests that the experiment wasn't as well conceived as it might have been. One thought I had while I watched the test was that it would have been better to have preceded it with some isolated wear testing experiments. These might allow some of the issues you put forth to be sorted a bit before doing the lawnmower testing.

[@chazfaz3595]

@@davefoc good points. What you tested still has value. And you do follow loical pathways.... Designing experiments is challenging

[@dannynix7025]

I used Engine Slick 50,000 before Slick 50 and ran it for a season before changing oil. During the course of the summer I could tell a difference in pulling the rope to start the engine after a few weeks but nothing after the first day. I don't think the engine was run long enough to fairly judge the product. I think Chaz has some good points.

[@davidjoles9737]

Correct had to run on clean oil change. Up to 5000 miles to make any difference

[@perfecte99]

Were the engines in similar condition prior? The slick 50 did run cooler... Did both engines run at same temp if they had same oil?

[@fostytou]

Yeah it would've been cool if he tested the slick 50 mower with SAE 30 first and then drained and refilled.

[@KaiserTom]

Yeah running that much cooler from just an additive is a pretty big deal as far as preventing wear and tear goes since temperature has an exponential effect on wear and tear. Sure it apparently won't save it from a no oil scenario but I'm not sure many things do and you shouldn't be buying additives based on such an extreme scenario anyways.

[@scarharting5577]

@@KaiserTom Two different, worn engines, so we have no idea if the cooler running engine had anything to do with the oil. Numerous factors could have made it run cooler.

[@KaiserTom]

@@scarharting5577 Absolutely. That's why there should be another test with a clean engine, flushed out after every test, to see if these additives make a difference in temperature. Hopefully the flushing gets rid of anything that may "stick around" and muddy up further results. Better yet just two new engines with random test sequences, so that even if things do muddy it up, they will ideally do so consistently.

[@joracer1]

Slick 50 does work at least it did in 1990 or so...i did drive a truck with 350 engine for about 50 miles with no oil after slick 50 treatment trying to blow it up, it didnt hurt it.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for commenting on this.

[@baybchik23]

That's because it was a 350. Lol. You can't hurt those engines.

[@q-bert6454]

I used it in my 1992 VW Jetta, a week or 2 later a seal failed on my way to work (25 miles) leaked out most if not all my oil and the car still ran. Took it to a garage after work, they were surprised it still ran because all the oil had drained out. Poured oil in and it all ran out the bottom of the engine. So for me this stuff works or maybe it was the type of oil I used.

[@colehara]

@@baybchik23 Fact!

[@dougedwards8660]

I bought a brand new 1993 Ford Bronco with the 351 Windsor motor. I did use Slick 50 after 1 year of buying the vehicle. I did change my oil around 5000 miles increments and would use slick 50 2 sometimes 3 in a years time. Vehicle got me 442000 miles of usage before it started to use oil. I still use it today and I think it does help engines last longer. It has also helped the camchatter in my 2018 ecoboost motor. Did not stop it but reduced some of the noise.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@MoejoTheGreat]

The results are strange to me. The Slick 50 engine was running cooler, which would imply less friction is being made, yet it died much sooner. Leaves me scratching my head.

[@buckbundy8642]

Matt I think it had to do with an aspect not related to the lack of oil. I think that engine had an issue with the carburetor. Looks like a mower that was scarcely used and sold after the death of a parent. "Old persons". When they usually sit for long periods of time without use with the newer ethanol laced gasoline they often get filthy with sediment and oxides from the ethanol. Probably got it cheap at an estate sale. Used maybe 5 times a year to mow for 15 minutes at a time.

[@gregeoryl]

I wonder if slick 50 has detergents that wash the oil from the engine.

[@michaelstilley5045]

I was told by my Briggs & Stratton rep. (about 20 years ago) that oil additives like slick 50 actually congeal in air cooled engines.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@gjkozy]

That's interesting, good to note that.

[@scotty362100]

You were "told that" so you automatically believed it?!? SMFH

[@bearallen8010]

I was waiting for your wife to walk out ask you where here canning jars are.

[@ProjectFarm]

Lol

[@bmaxdlux3169]

Considering how much time he spends on his testing and experimenting it's amazing he still has a wife. 😁

[@edwardmulder3777]

Lol

[@nunya3163]

@@bmaxdlux3169 That all just keeps him occupied, and out of trouble.

[@robertgerage8302]

@@ProjectFarm Your wife must be a very patient woman and love you quite a lot. I don't know how you can explain these things to her. Good luck and God speed, my friend.

[@barnybrewman1571]

Another great video, as usual. You've saved me countless hours and dollars, doing real world experiments that I've always thought about doing. My only question on this Slick Fifty test, is if it should have been done on identical engines with identical number of hours on each, or maybe even brand new engines (ouch). One has to wonder if the Slick fifty engine may have been closer to giving up the ghost than the other one, prior to the test, maybe clearances were tighter or looser, might make it last longer with no oil?

[@margarita8442]

exactly - not a real test

[@JB-xg7io]

I agree. I really like the effort PF puts into his tests but in this case there were too many unaccounted for variables. At the very least, there should have been a temperature measurement of both engines running SAE 30.

[@SS-zm3vi]

I was thinking the reason the 30 weight did better was because it was a little bit looser of an engine since it ran hotter but didn't seize up as fast or the slick 50 engine ran a little cooler but seized up faster seems it may have had tighter tolerances.

[@MetaView7]

Is there a video on the strip down of these engines?

[@alanspring8462]

I have used synthetic oil in my 2006 Ford truck and I did not notice any difference in performance until about 50 miles. I believe you didn't run the engine long enough for the ingredients of the slick 50 to impregnate the metal.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the constructive feedback.

[@jeffs.6488]

@@ProjectFarm I have to agree with Alan Spring, I remember it clearly stated on the packaging that the Slick 50 impregnated the metal to reduce friction on the metal to metal parts. Next time try running the motor with the Slick 50 in it for 10 hours instead of 10 minutes.

[@victorfox9623]

Don't fall for those lies. Oil doesn't impregnate metal. It can only coat the outer surfaces

[@jeffs.6488]

@@victorfox9623 It actually "impregnates" the dips, grooves, scratches and other non-smooth surfaces of the cylinder wall and piston rings.

[@Jamestfarrell]

Watch it again; Project Farm didn't shut the engines down at 10 minutes. They shut down when the internal tolerances disappeared.

[@badfiveo327]

Great videos! Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but it looked like more oil was removed from the Slick50 engine than the other before they were run dry.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@johnbarry8185]

The owner of these products SOLD them, back in the 1980's, I think it was. He just sold the NAME, NOT the formula. From what I understand, he put the formula in a different named product. If I can find it, I'll try to post it.

[@mr.bitsbyte4664]

Do this test with the Xcelplus! I want to see it work!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@TheGoldishFish]

I would love to see you try Liqui Moly (20002) Cera Tec Friction Modifier in your tests!!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the product recommendation! I'll see if I can test it in the near future! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

[@christopherhurley2570]

Likewise, I think any high moly disulfide grease you can get would be interesting. Even if you had to dilute the grease I would be very interested to see how well residual moly protects. Even as a dry lubricant it's one of the best compounds available. On the same line of thought you might try CLP or similar. The reason we use CLP on our weapons in the military is that it leaves a teflon film after wipe down. Thanks for the entertaining vids man.

[@misfitthemad276]

You can buy pure MoS2 from AliExpress (I did). I'd like to see an ounce or two of that added to ordinary oil then same test done.

[@craigkennington9869]

molly great stuff

[@malikto1]

I would think the engine build would make a difference in that test. They may be briggs but they are not the same. How do they look disassembled? Is one more damaged than the other?

[@AlexanderTzalumen]

I would have loved to see the inside of the cylinders the way we get to see on the newer videos.

[@michaelgroenski8158]

Why don’t y’all do it and see for yourself. I love all these comments that are pointing out “mistakes”, or what the commentary authors would do differently and therefore “better”. Y’all a bunch of one-upping keyboard warriors

[@malikto1]

@@michaelgroenski8158 There is a difference between a comment/question and a criticism. This channel is one of the best out there. You see criticism, I do not.

[@rodneyyoung5729]

I was beginning my career as a small engine tech in the 90s. At a briggs and stratton service school we discussed the whole slick 50 thing. They started a 3.5 hp briggs engine and let it run without oil. It ran for a few minutes before it was shut off. The engineers told us that the very nature of how the engine was built actually allowed it to run with no oil for a fair amount of time.

[@scottmcelhiney323]

Yeah, they have self lubricating bronze bushings.

[@tracycleaves2931]

I used to coown an auto repair shop and the engine temperature was important to heat the engine up and run it for about 45 minutes so the slick 50 filled all the holes in the metal to reduce friction and we directed it to clients who do not regularly change oil. Having clean oil when added was very very important so the metal floating around was not stuck to the engine walls with slick 50. It isn’t something you just add, it takes planning, clean oil, hot engine (I can’t remember if hot engine before adding or just after) driving time. Then drain it and add clean oil. Having that much black muck in the oil suggests metal particles were stuck to the inside of the engine when used.