Can you Laser Cut Through 3mm Plywood with 7watt Laser?

[@kentharris7427]

I was able to cut a 10mmX10mm square using a 7 Watt Longmill Laser after about 30 passes at 100 mm a minute using 3mm Birch plywood. The secret is to get the laser in focus. I use a "Ramp Focal Gauge from Lensdigital" (which is pricy and you could probably make your own.) Some material cuts better then others. I can cut cedar in 3 passes and felt in one pass. I just ordered some smoked acrylic 1/8" thick and will be trying that next week. I promised to make reindeer in February and will probably have to cut it using a 1/8" CNC router bit. I will keep you updated and let you know if I can cut the smoke acrylic in a couple of passes.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you for the update

[@kentharris7427]

@@PawPawsWorkShop I'm getting a 40 watt laser tomorrow from Crealty. It's supposed to cut 1/8" Birch in one pass at 600mm a minute.

[@ald.3449]

Im new with cnc. I have shapeoko 3xxl. My question is what bit would you use to cut a circle so small?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

The most common bit I use is the 1/8” bit

[@ald.3449]

@@PawPawsWorkShop ty really appreciate it

[@alexlaguna8812]

what i do sometimes is engrave a origin point for the xcarve, engrave all the work and then set the router bit at the origin i engraved in that way i ensure that my cut will be alined with the engrave

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Excellent idea. I have a line on both the x and y axis that I cut with the cnc to give a very accurate reference point. Thank you for your suggestion.

[@jasonking6224]

Hi, For the circular cut using the laser - could you simply cut from the other side of the ply, yes a hass le as you would have to flip it and index but that way the burn marks would not be seen once glued to the product?

[@MrLarry0001]

I'm using a 2.5 watt Eleksmaker laser and had the same issue of not being able to cut through even 1/8" plywood. I recently added air assist to it and it basically turned the laser into a blowtorch. It blows all of the charring out of the way and makes the point where the laser contacts the wood a lot hotter. I noticed that the cut is cleaner and finer as well. You might give that a try. I'm now able to cut through 1/4" wood in 2 to 3 passes. One pass on 1/8".

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Awesome! Thank you, I will give that a try.

[@dwaynejohnson7499]

Nice video, how do you allow this combination. Could you provide a link for the these. Is the combination available with all cnc router?

[@MilenaGileva]

Hi there, My husband would like to buy 'Openbuilds All in One Laser' but he's not sure which model to choose from - 2.8W, 4.2W, AND 7W. Could you please tell me which one would you recommend? Best Regards

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I would always go with the larger wattage. It gives you more options. You can always turn the power down.

[@MilenaGileva]

@@PawPawsWorkShop Thank you!

[@jerrysimeone]

By adding the z axis you can increment down a few thousandths and it I’m guessing it will take around 10 passes for a 6 watt. I have j tech 3.8 and have cut out same thickness with around 20 passes with incremental z.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much. That is a great idea.

[@unopine]

Nice video, and I really like the versatility you have being able to switch between the router and laser! Speaking from experience, having a good air assist nozzle greatly increases both the quality of engraving, and the speed of cutting with the laser. The advantages are many: when engraving, the stream of directed air blows smoke away from the laser lens so that it never fouls; when cutting, the air stream functions as mentioned, and also clears out smoke and charred material from the cut, giving the laser an unobstructed path to fresh material still needing to be vaporized. Although I'm using shop air as a source with a regulator and water trap, it seems like a tiny aperture on the nozzle is MUCH more important than having a powerful supply. I can put 150psi to the nozzle, but this breaks things, and there really isn't any increase in efficacy above 15psi. Using a 5000mw, 445nm laser module at 95%, I can get thru most 3mm plywood in 4 - 6 passes @ 500 - 750 mm/sec.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you, excellent information

[@tzfletcher]

A 7 watt diode laser should be able to handle 3 mm laser ply fairly easily. I think the plywood in this video may have been regular ply that's typically bonded together with formaldehyde based glues rather than the urea based glues used in laser friendly plywoods. Formaldehydes are hard even for relatively powerful CO2 lasers to cut through, whereas ureas are easy. You can tell the difference by looking at the glue layers between the plys, formaldehydes are dark brown/black, ureas are white/clear.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Excellent information! Thank you very much.

[@SimplySellers202]

Given how close your laser is focused to the wood, I would try to cut a few passes, then lower the laser before making a few more passes. Also, the soot left from the laser should be easily sanded off or you can mask the area before cutting.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you, I'll give that a try

[@karlriley1314]

What you need is an AIR ASSIST nozzle at 70 with 25 passes, maybe. I hear that the AIR ASSIST helps a lot. I've been thinking of getting a LASER for my GENMITZU 6060.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Excellent point

[@JohnColgan.]

Even though you thought this a failure, look at it another way, what percentage/depth of cut did you achieve at an acceptable burn pattern? Maybe just increase the number of passes at an acceptable inch/min rate

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Good point. I'll be doing further testing. Thank you very much.

[@taclackrivoglavac3977]

What laser is on...link please..

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

This is the JTechPhontics laser. Link in the description

[@bluecollarmoneymatters8246]

How large is your xcarve? Looked bigger than the 1000 x 1000. Is there an extension kit available?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Yes, it is the 1000x1000. Currently, from Inventables, there is no extension kit. Some people on the forum have extended their machine with after market parts.

[@dennisjohnson1893]

What is that orange glass laser cup that rides above the material called? I would like to get one.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

It is the front cover of the JTechPhontics laser. There is a link in the description to contact them.

[@wolfgangblack8035]

The plywood you use makes a huge difference. The glue between layers takes more power to cut than the wood and some glues are very resistant to laser cutting.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Excellent point. Thank you very much.

[@wolfgangblack8035]

@@PawPawsWorkShop You're welcome. From my experience it seems the cheaper plywood and the stuff with less layers can be cut with blue lasers.

[@damiandobbs9422]

what settings do you have your laser configured at, since the laser etching is amazing. I just got mine and I have a ton of projects to engrave, but I am burning the wood too much. Thanks

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

The J Tech Laser comes from the factory set by the pins at 80% power. In Lightburn I set it at 100% power and 70 inches per minute.

[@damiandobbs9422]

@@PawPawsWorkShop what about the fire power percentage, what is that set at

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

That is turned down to about 3.5%

[@Hernandezjv2]

Paw Paw, you may want to try dropping the laser down a bit after each pass. Your focal point for the laser changes with each pass, if your first laser pass/cut removes 1mm of material your focal point for the second pass is 1mm lower than the first pass. You may want to also cut at 100% speed up a bit so you don’t burn the material. Also be careful not to crash the laser into the surface of your material.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Excellent idea. I need to turn on the z axis

[@charlesbrewer6552]

This is what I think. I am just starting with my diode laser but from what I have learned so far the focusing is critical. As you cut deeper the focus goes out. By dropping the z axis down to equal the depth of cut, quite deep cuts should be possible with multiple passes. I will find out soon because this is what I want to do.

[@Hernandezjv2]

I have 6w Opt Laser and it can easily cut through 3mm plywood, but I also have air assist so that helps remove the ash for multiple passes.

[@LastLegWoodworks]

Thanks for the great video, as always. Maybe a silly question, but do you use any type of protection for your camera when recording the laser engraving? I've heard that the beam can damage camera parts as well but am not sure if that includes scattered or reflected laser light. I'm about to add an Opt Laser to my X-Carve. Thanks!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much. No, I do not have any filters on the camera. I do film where the camera is looking through the filter on the laser. Congratulations of getting the Opt Laser.

[@danielb7671]

Could this cut fabric such as nylon or a cotton tshirt?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I have not tried that yet. Sounds like a great experiment.

[@TimberWood.Customs]

Do u have a link to that laser

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Https://JTechPhotonics.com

[@TimberWood.Customs]

@@PawPawsWorkShop thanks!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

You're welcome

[@DrgnSlyr]

Have you tried cutting balsa?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Not yet but it should cut easily because it is so light and soft.

[@joeaustin6834]

Consider adding air assit to your laser. It will suprise you how well it will cut throught that plywood.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Excellent idea.

[@Lukisbyidda]

How to add air assist?

[@GregoryLynnWood]

I have a 6W opt laser that will cut thru that with no problem. When using lightburn you have to enable your z axis and step-down on each pass. For plywood I usually step down about .25mm. Number of passes would be thickness/.25 or 8 in this case. You can play with speeds to try and find a clean cut that will cut .at lease 25 on each pass but not burn around the edges. Different materials my cut deeper than .25 on a pass or less than .25. This is hard to measure so its hard to figure out. My lasers shield sits 35 mm (60 from the lens) off the surface of the material I am cutting but it is mounted beside my dewalt 611. The spindle sits lower than the laser, so I have to make sure it can step down the thickness of your material without the spindle. (remove bit) or the laser hitting anything. If it does I have to remove the spindle. Lightburn can also be told to raise or lower the head more on the first pass and continue to step down from there. I assume this could be used if your your material burns around the edges too much on the first pass. The manual says this can be use for deeper cuts which I don't really understand. I have aways left this at 0 mm and not had a need to use it. Love the channel and have learned a lot of things watching it.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I have considered activating the z axis but have not done so as most of my engraving is done using the fixed level. Thank you very much for the information.

[@kentharris7427]

How do you enable the z-axis in Lightburn? I have a 7W laser attached to my CNC router as well.

[@GregoryLynnWood]

@@kentharris7427 Go into Devices Settings. in the top right corner click the enable z axis button. Then double click on a layer you want to use z for and enter a value for z steps per pass along with number of passes.

[@Scritley]

Great video, thanks for posting! The new JTech 7w Pro Laser with HD lens can supposedly cut through 1/4" Home Depot ply in 3 passes at 10 in/min and 100% power. There is a JTech sponsored video where I got that stat that also compares to the old 7w laser. The old 7w laser did the cuts in 5 passes at 10 in/min and 100% power.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thanks for the info! I saw an ad for the new laser. It looks great!

[@ronnie100393]

I’m new to this but what I see everyone are using air assist to help in there cutting?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

The air assist aids in cutting the wood by putting air pressure directly on the cut clearing away the ash. It also helps to keep the lens clean

[@chrisculbreth8587]

10 passes at 12 inches a minute with air assist and i was able to accomplish this task....paw paw, your videos are very educational, i watch them all. i just ordered a 10 watt endurance laser, i will let you know how it goes. thank you for all your awesome videos!!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much.

[@chrisculbreth8587]

Sooooo....an endurance 10 watt laser will cut 3mm birch in 4 passes at 9 inches a minute with air assist. I think I like the endurance product, just not as snazzy as some other big name brands. Also, very affordable, 500 with expedited shipping. I hope this helps you and others out paw paw

[@kennethd2643]

Getting ready to add a JTEch Laser to my X-Carve, I am on the fence about 7W vs 3.8W laser, after watching this I am starting to lean to the 3.8W since I would not need it to cut just burn. If you had to do it again would you have went with the 3.8W? How has it been holding up?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I like the 7w very much and it is holding up very well. The 3.8w will work fine, but it will just take longer to engrave the project.

[@GlassWerx]

I know it's an old video and all but I haven't seen any others on your page with the JTec laser. How do you like it. Iv got a BOBSCNC E4 and I know Bob's doesn't recommend using a laser with their machines but I think it would open up a whole new load of opportunities and I was just wondering what your thoughts were for the laser unit. Thanks again for the info and hope ya had a great Thanksgiving

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I really like the laser a lot. It has opened up a whole new area and is wonderful. It is not hard to learn. Jay at JTechPhotonics is great to work with.

[@GlassWerx]

@@PawPawsWorkShop ok thanks very much. Iv been considering getting one just gotta save up for it. I figure if I can learn easel and use the ugs the laser shouldn't be too much more difficult.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Use the Lightburn software for the laser. It is easy and works great.

[@GlassWerx]

@@PawPawsWorkShop awsome Info thanks. I'll remember that when I get to order it. Do you have a promo code with them that'll get ya a little finder's fee kick back? If so I'd definitely use it. Again thanks for all the information that you have given and provide

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

No, I do not have a promo code and I do not make anything for the sales. lol, maybe you could suggest that. I think you will be happy with it. They have a new model out

[@PuppetWood]

I recently put a 5 watt laser on my LongMill and it will cut 1/8 plywood but it takes time.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Excellent

[@blakewillemsen9925]

Hi Paw Paw, thanks for providing all the excellent videos. Just thought I'd share a little something- I was actually able to cut through 1/8" baltic birch at 20ipm, 100% power and 15 passes. Seems just a little excessive to me. There was almost no charring at all. But I do wonder how taxing it is on the laser!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thanks for the info! I agree that may be a little much for the laser.

[@harryragland7840]

I have watched a bunch of diode laser videos on youtube and many have the same results you found. One common thread is that the actual power of these units is all over the place when properly measured by a precision meter. Jtech has a good reputation but it is still hard to know if you are actually getting all of the rated power. I also hear that your mileage may vary between brands of plywood owing to the different adhesives used. I suggest that try some 1/8th crafting basswood and see if you fair a little better. Also, just as jsellers202 mentioned, dropping down a touch with each pass would seem to be a good idea to keep the laser focus at the level where the actual cutting is happening. I keep looking at lasers and I really want one.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much for your input. I will be giving this a try.

[@jasongarner6528]

Agree, ply type is a factor. I use atomstack pro (its says 40w but I read that its only a 5w beam) and have cut small plate stands from 3mm standard ply. I reduced the height to 1mm, max power @ 10mm/sec with 8 passes. I get some burn so I am going to use tac paper. I need to cut 50 stands. thinking of getting the X7 module that has a 10w beam, also by atomstack.

[@Eaglepenguinz]

I have never seen you before...but I love you PawPaw.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Awesome! Thank you very much.

[@scottkriskie8535]

Great video as always. What bit do you use for key holes? I've been looking for a good one. Thank you sir!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

It is an actual key hole bit. I usually get mine at one of the big box stores and it is also available through online companies.

[@michaela4141]

@@PawPawsWorkShop "Saved video" How do you zero the key hole bit?

[@NathanApffel]

you can skip to 8:00. Spoiler alert, you can't cut through 3mm ply with a 7watt laser...

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I've learned a lot since this video. If I activate my z axis that will lower on each pass. Also, I can add air assist and it will do it.

[@rc3d490]

@@PawPawsWorkShop it's TRUE, air assist mark the difference. one question, what bed are you using in your laser?

[@mickysmithiii1213]

Try using more passes. Simply because a lazer evaporates material. I used to run a 40 watt self contained unit, it would cut plastic, but not metal, and burn wood.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you, I'll give that a try.

[@cutflower36]

Like the router/laser. Its big!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you. It is a lot less expensive than many half it size. It is a great addition to the shop

[@gthmcty111]

It sure can and I can also cut through 5mm as well with no air assist or incremental lowering of the Z axis!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I would love to know how you set it up to cut through 5mm. Thank you for sharing.

[@gthmcty111]

@@PawPawsWorkShop Sorry about that sir, on the 3mm I used 15ipm @100% and it cut through in 3 passes and on the 5mm I use 12ipm @100% and it took 10 passes both cuts the laser was 1/8" above the material.

[@gthmcty111]

@Maureen Cnota Jtech 7w

[@gthmcty111]

@Maureen Cnota if you go to my page I actually have a video of me cutting out 3mm and 5mm plywood you also need to make sure your Laser is focused.

[@MRWrizish]

The problem is that once you make the first couple of passes you are trying to cut through a layer of carbon laid down by the previous cuts. The layer of carbon is much harder to cut through than wood. The more cuts the more carbon. If you can get things lined up correctly you can try and flip the piece and cut from the other side, this should double your cut depth there are videos on how to do this on youtube. It involves both software and jigs for alignment. Multiple cuts will work better on something like acrylic because they do not create a carbon layer.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much. You make an excellent point. I appreciate it very much. Thank you for sharing.

[@MRWrizish]

@@PawPawsWorkShop I really enjoyed your videos by the way. One more thing is that the air assist people mention will decrease the carbon build up between cuts.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you

[@TheCalibso]

Thank you very much, you saved my time and my laser module.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

You are welcome!

[@professionalfoamsmith3487]

do you believe it might cut through 5 mm EVA foam.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Adding air assist and lowering the z axis would help. I'll have to try that.

[@professionalfoamsmith3487]

I normally work with floor mat foam the stuff you find in the gym. Or 5 mm Eva craft foam the stuff you find in like hobby lobby

[@HoiPolloi]

Thanks for posting this. You saved me quite a bit of work and will also use the router to make my cuts.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

You are welcome!

[@dzee9481]

PapPaw Unfortunately you need to use a 40 watt CO2 laser to cut through that sort of wood or you use Balsa wood 1/16 inch with 7 watt lasers. Laser diodes do not have the power to cut through wood at speeds you have set for you feed rate.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Yes, I think you are correct.

[@4-6-3DP]

Informative as always, Paw Paw!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much

[@klausreviewscraftrestore3152]

i have one i got in china that burns so hot you wouldn't believe, and because its a Chinese knock off it was extremely cheap. i found out if you get the right Chinese company the stuff they copy is just as good as the original or better but a whole lot cheaper, but it has no name on it anywhere, its all unbranded. i have had it already for 3 yrs and it still works great.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Awesome! What is the name of the manufacturer?

[@solafarms2295]

Any link you care to share?

[@7Westwood]

Thanks for the great video, I am really thinking of getting a setup like you have...

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Awesome! I really like the setup and it is very easy to switch back and forth from the laser to the CNC router.

[@Big111Ben]

.0005 depth times 250 passes would more than likely get you there, but not in a timely fashion. Thanks for video

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

lol, that's it. The solution! I think I'm going to try something different though.

[@zumbafosto]

Might be quicker to train a small herd of termites :)

[@pierremartin9744]

Yes, router is the best way to cut wood. Thanks for sharing and best wishes from France ;-)

[@SimplySellers202]

I agree the router is better than a 7 watt lased, but a 45 watt laser would be better to engrave and cut with no tool changes and one press of a button.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Awesome, thank you very much.

[@DEeMONsworld]

air assist will help you cut plywood.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I just added air assist. Will be testing. Thanks

[@basitansari9727]

Sir, V nice Video............i really like it. Thanks

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much

[@RGCbaseace]

40 in per min 2 passes for a 1 inch circle 100% power of course youll need a 45 watt laser

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

lol, that works

[@RGCbaseace]

Yeah even a 45 watt has its limits with hardwood or birch ply i offten just use the spindle I mainly use the 45watt laser for thin veneers and thin ply , fabrics ,sticky back foam and to etch images on ceramic tiles and glass or backside of mirrors with the help of pic engrave plus laser and the dac i got via jtech and my little ortur laser engraver that little laser is awesome for logos and wood / anodized metal business cards

[@authenticwood5219]

So, not luck in laser cut thru?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

No, it did not cut through

[@Sebastian-kc7id]

You need an air assist than you can cut 3mm in 1 pass!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I will have to give that a try.

[@Sebastian-kc7id]

@@PawPawsWorkShop best is a small nozzel with high pressure (3 bar+) directly pointing at the cut as close as possible. So the evapurated material goes away and dosnt absorb all the laser energy. Sry for the poor english.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you

[@ACNNOMOREBLUFF]

In fact, you need an air assist, otherwise it will not work....

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I think you are correct. Thank you

[@ChipEstrada]

Use aluminium foil to protect waste board from laser. A diode Laser cant cut through foil.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you, excellent tip

[@bezdomny83]

I know what can help you cut 3mm plywood! A 10 W laser

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you

[@jau7446]

👍👍👍

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you

[@ohske]

😯👍👍👍👌👍

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you

[@NobleCarpetCleaners]

5 min to get to the actual cutting of plywood......