Can You Melt an Aluminium Chair in a Microwave? - Absolutely!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

First of all, Please Check: FlexiSpot C7 ergonomic chair at bit.ly/40f5Cfe and use my code ''C750'' to get $50 off on the C7 ergonomic chair. *Let’s Talk About Drying Your Molds in the Oven!* In lost wax casting or lost PLA casting, molds are placed in a kiln to burn out or “lose” the model inside. This leaves an empty cavity in the mold that can be filled with metal. But with methods like Print Wave Casting, there’s no object to burn out - the mold is already empty. *So, can you just dry the mold in the oven?* Well, it’s not that simple. As you saw in the video, moisture can still linger in the mold even if it looks dry. *What is Chemically Bonded Water?* Wet molds contain two types of water: Free/physical water - Moisture trapped in pores (evaporates easily). Chemically bonded water - Locked into the material’s structure and only released at higher temperatures (typically 200-500°C????). Chemically bonded water is stubborn. You could leave a mold in your kitchen for a month, expecting all the moisture to evaporate, but it probably won’t - unless you heat it significantly. This is why people insist on using a kiln. Different plasters or investment materials hold water differently. If moisture isn’t fully removed before pouring metal, it can lead to poor-quality casts, cracked molds, or serious accidents. Yes, pouring molten metal into a wet mold can be dangerous. The risk depends on the mold’s wetness, the metal type, and even factors like sprue design and steam escape routes. Just because it didn’t explode once doesn’t mean it won’t next time. Don’t get overconfident. I always wear a face shield in my videos - you never know. But I’m not trying to scare you! It can be done safely. For context, my experiments use smaller molds - this might not apply to larger ones. I also base my observations on visual signs of moisture, not lab tests for microscopic water content. Now you see why kilns are recommended - wet molds are no fun. *Can You Dry Molds in the Oven?* Yes, but it depends on several factors. *Molds in Metal Flasks vs. Flask-less Molds* Normally in Lost Wax/Resin/Pla casting, the investment is poured into metal flasks and then put in a kiln with the flask. I don’t use flasks………Ok, sometimes I do, but mostly I don’t. Molds without flasks will be way easier to dry in the oven. For example, You can make 2 identical molds, one inside of a metal flask and the other without. Put them both in the oven. What you will find out is that one without the flasks will lose the water first. I have made that mistake a few times. I made the molds inside of a flask and dried it in the oven, but because I rarely use flasks, I forgot that I needed to adjust the time accordingly, so I ended up with wet molds. Molds without flasks are much better for drying in the oven, but there is a downside. Some investment powders require flasks. You will find them very brittle if molds are made without a flask. That’s the downside. But can you even use metal flasks with Print Wave Metal casting? Absolutely. Sometimes I use those adjustable cake molds. I just tape it to the 3D printer’s build plate just like it did in the video. All the rest is the same. *It Depends on Your Oven!* My oven reaches 250°C - not common in the EU, where most ovens max out at 220-230°C. I’m lucky, but there is a way to boost your oven’s temperature with a simple part swap (more on that later). In theory, the hotter the better - you never know how much heat is needed to fully dry the mold. I also bought an air fryer (230°C) just for mold drying. It’s not as hot as my oven, but I hoped it could handle smaller molds. After testing, I found it wasn’t enough - my molds stayed wet. But by increasing the drying time (up to 12 hours), it eventually worked. More testing is needed, but sometimes the success can be found by just drying your molds for longer. I also picked up a moisture meter that probes the plaster to detect water. It’s helpful for very wet molds but less useful for drier ones. I didn’t use it in the video, but maybe it would have caught moisture in that big mold! *Plasters vs. Investment Powders* Different investment powders/plasters hold moisture differently, affecting drying success. Testing is key. *Downsides of Oven Drying* Some investments need high temperatures for strength. If your oven can’t reach those levels, your molds may stay weak. You can strengthen molds by adding sand, but this might reduce detail or cause porosity. If professional-grade investment requires higher temperatures for full strength, and your oven can’t deliver - well, there’s not much you can do. *Boosting Your Oven to 250°C!* Please don’t take it as advice. I want to share it as some people might find it useful, but I don’t recommend doing it unless you have a good reason to do it. It’s pretty easy to convert a 220°C oven to 250°C. All you need to do is change the thermostat. It can be as easy as a 10 minute job in some cases. But is it ok to do it if the manufacturer did not intend the oven to be used at those temperatures? Well, that’s something I can’t answer. It will depend on your oven. In some cases it might not be a good idea to do it. In other cases, it will be fine. There is not that much difference between an oven that can go up to 220°C vs 250°C..but it depends. Obviously, I don’t recommend doing it, but I also don’t want to get into territory where everything is very dangerous and we live in a bubble. Whether or not it’s ok to do it will depend on your oven. And it goes without saying, don’t attempt it if you don’t know what you are doing. Denny

[@Danny.._]

you should pin this comment so it stays at the top of the comment section

[@ShakeTheFuture]

@@Danny.._ Oh, Thanks! I thought I did.

[@BartJBols]

Going outside for this project... you really are dedicated.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thank You very much!

[@Avemis1]

You can fix your moisture issues by weighing the mold periodically during drying. When the weight stops dropping you know it's dry. Or you can measure the density of a dry sample of your investment mix and extrapolate the target weight of future molds, assuming you know their volume (which is easy to check in CAD). Add gating to fill the mold cavity from below, choke the flow to a low controlled speed, add spintrap to trap the oxide film. Rent a garage - real life changer :)

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thanks! Those are some great tips especially about renting a garage 😀

[@phrozenwun]

5:16 I prefer your videos when you are thinking outside the box - 99.9% great, thanks for sharing

[@ShakeTheFuture]

As a I cat in a box, I rarely think outside it 🙂Thank You very much!

[@kaelgray3667]

Breathing in metal fumes is healthier than eating microwaved popcorn.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

You are probably right! 😳

[@punjabik]

This is great content. Keep it up.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Oh, wow! Thank You very much. That´s very kind of you.

[@AlvinnVanAert]

Great content as always. It is amazing what you can do in such a small working area. Happy new year.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thank You very much! Happy New Year!

[@MetalMeltyBoi-w9l]

Thanks for another video! I have been with brass using your process. thanks for the inspiration!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Awesome! Thanks!

[@Fahnder99]

Came for a chair, found a chair. Man that was cool ad. Greetings to spain.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Awesome! Thanks!

[@Internet-Antics]

I love your channel, and how much you do to push in new directions that I haven't seen elsewhere. Very very cool!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thank You very much! It´s something I enjoy doing.

[@william5694]

You need to ramp the heat slowly when drying large plaster molds. Under 60 c for at least a day. High temperature is not your friend with thick plaster. It takes time for the moisture to diffuse from the deep portions to the surface. You must not cause steam to build in those deep pores and voids. It will add to the cracking caused by shrinkage. It can even cause spalling or make the mold explode if there is a big enough void.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thank You very much for the information. I´ll keep that in mind.

[@garrettmillsap]

I think you did an excellent job. Its inspiring to see you find a way to do what you love in the spaces you have available.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thank You very much Garrett!

[@andrewlondon3461]

You should try adding some chopped glass fiber into the plaster mold mix to prevent cracking

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I did try it because it was suggested by a viewer. I haven’t done it enough times to draw any conclusions. Since my casting quality bar is quite low and I usually don’t aim for perfection, small cracks don’t bother me unless they significantly affect the final cast. That said, I have some glass fiber, and I might start using it if cracking becomes an issue, especially with larger molds. Cheers!

[@macrumpton]

Back in the last century, I was in art school and we had a couple of interesting casting processes. The first one was we would build what we wanted to make and the sprue out of Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) and cover the parts of the surface we wanted to be smooth with masking tape. Then we would pack that into green casting sand and it would be ready to pour. The hot metal would vaporize the Styrofoam and tape into a gas that went into the sand and the areas that were covered with the masking tape would come out with a pretty smooth texture. This technique had the advantage that you could go from an idea to a finished cast in as much time as it took to heat the metal. The downside is you need good ventilation as vaporized styrene is not good to breathe The other technique was a little more sophisticated but allowed you to do much more elaborate shapes. You would make your model and sprue out of brown casting wax and you would coat it with this special paint, that dried to be somewhat porous, that was made from zircon. Then you would take some ordinary construction sand and mix it with an epoxy, and before the epoxy started to set you would pack your wax model in the sand in a cardboard box. The zircon wash would bond with the sand, and when the sand was cured, you would put it in an 300° f ( 150°c) oven (not a kiln) for a 2-3 hours to melt the wax through the zircon into the sand, and you were ready to pour your bronze or aluminum. The results were comparable with lost wax investment casting, picking up small details like fingerprints in the wax, but in a fraction of the time, and this process had the advantage that while the metal was cooling the heat would make the epoxy weak, so removing the sand was a matter of a few minutes. Combining either of these techniques with your innovations opens up a world of possibilities. Making silicone molds to make multiple wax models would even make small production runs possible.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thank You very much for sharing it Michael!

[@willcool713]

I've been looking for an easy way to work with aluminum bronze. Love to see you make something with that to give me a clue.

[@TheRealJerseyJoe]

Nice one ! Carry on.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thanks!

[@truthreigns7]

Good to see you again

[@googleyoutubechannel8554]

You're a proper madlad, I'll watch any apt-dwelling microwave casting nonsense you come up with, keep it up!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

He, he....Thanks!

[@GregKrynen]

Great video! Learned a lot from your experiment. Have you thought about using/creating a silicon seal to support your funnel and provide a sturdier platform for the mold to sit on?

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thanks! I am happy with smaller molds and coffee maker funnels, like the mold I used to make the remote. Those work very well, and I’m not planning to make any changes. The bigger molds could definitely benefit from a different vacuum system, like the silicone seal you mentioned. I’m still figuring it out without overthinking it. I think time and a few more casts will reveal the best approach. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@KetansaCreatesArt]

20:13 We need more songs like this, to turn the job this amazing 😮😮✨😎

[@ShakeTheFuture]

He, he. Thanks! Singing makes everything more fun....Ok, not everything. Singing while vomiting might not be fun, but it can definitely brighten the day.

[@KetansaCreatesArt]

@ShakeTheFuture Yes 😁 Thank you for the reply. Wishing you more successful 2025.

[@wktodd]

I'm wondering if you could use the 3d printed mould technique to reduce the thickness of the mould thus reducing your drying time.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Yes, that can definitely be done. The last mold could have been much smaller, which would have allowed it to dry faster.

[@foamboard_shenanigans]

If you want to make a vibrating table to remove the bubbles from the mould you can attach an old orbital sander to the underside of the table. Run the sander and the whole table vibrates gently and you can de-gas a lot of moulds at once. Also the vibrator doesn't take up any space on the table.

[@fynnli6685]

i agree! don't forget to sit on it for a while as well for a fun bonus feature !!!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Well, normally I use a reciprocating saw to vibrate the bucket with the investment. In this video, I didn’t because, for example, when I was pouring the remote control cover molds, it was too late to make the noise. I think I used the reciprocating saw when I made the dice, but it wasn’t shown in the video. I’ve thought about adding a motor to the table, but the noise might be an issue since it’s a different kind of sound that can travel through the concrete floors to the neighbor’s apartment. When I hold the bucket in the air and shake it, at least the vibration doesn’t transfer to the building through the floor. Thanks for the suggestion!

[@brianhutchinson7863]

Pretty cool. I've got a question that maybe a bit more technical than you have an answer for but figured I'd ask. With vacuum casting that I've recently seen demonstrated it appears that low vacuum is being used on molds that don't have actual ports to pull vacuum on. Meaning the vacuum is being pulled directly on or through the "investment" body, through the plaster itself. It seems to me that there could be investment types that allow a substantial volume of vacuum to be pulled through them but that standard plaster/plaster and sand would need more than a light vacuum to have any significant effect and probably in either situation would need a commercial vacuum pump to have the ideal, desired effects. I could be wrong as I have only done casting without vacuum. I'll research this question on my own as well but thought I'd ask you too.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I find that Plaster of Paris is very porous and vacuum can be easily pulled. I demonstrated a few vacuum casting examples in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jnSskHmGebZ0Y7c It´s a long video about microwave kiln making, using them to burn out molds in an ordinary microwave and vacuum casting with a vacuum cleaner. The vacuum part starts from 35min mark. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jnSskHmGebZ0Y7c?si=gOAKLgdbuYVTLzal&t=2105 I have never used a proper vacuum casting equipment, but an ordinary vacuum cleaner works pretty good in my opinion. Cheers!

[@xTxx333xxTx]

More metal casting videos! and the video time is optimal for me :) the cat was funny :D

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thanks! I hope this year I'll do more casting videos. Cheers!

[@AvaBernards]

I’ve seen some people pile glass chips on top of their crucible to help cut down on slag production; idk if that would be helpful in this application but regardless I love your work 💖💖

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Oh yes, I have also tried it, but with brass. I did it hoping it would help prevent zinc from boiling out of the brass. It didn’t make much of a difference, but since I’ve only done it once or twice, more experimentation is needed. I’ve always wondered if microwaves have something to do with it - the fact that I almost always experience zinc boiling out of the brass. Other people on the internet don’t seem to have this issue as often as I do. I was offered an electric furnace, but I turned it down because I was happy with the microwave, and I think that’s the main reason people watch this channel. Switching casting equipment didn’t seem like a wise move. That said, I’m considering getting one as an addition, not a replacement for the microwave. Then I can do some tests to see if microwaves are contributing to the issue or if I’m simply overheating my crucibles. Cheers!

[@haukur1]

For metal melting an induction heater is also an option

[@ShakeTheFuture]

@@haukur1 Yes, indeed. But it might be difficult to make popcorn with it 😀

[@kozko-xe1xl]

I'm the cat in the box!!💃🕺i'm the cat in the box!!🤸What are we talking about again??

[@felixbouvet1746]

😊 merci pour vos expériences je suis très impressionné par ces matériaux et je savais pas que ça existait de la plâtre de Paris😅😅😅😅😅 vos expériences sont vraiment très top

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thanks! Next time I go to Paris, I’ll bring back some Plaster of Paris instead of souvenirs. Maybe the one I get here isn’t authentic! 😉

[@wyattnixonlloyd8570]

the energy efficiency of this is fantastic! melting metal via gas or oil, wood, or coal, are so much more inefficient than this!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I haven’t made an energy consumption video yet, but yeah, I think it’s pretty good. The biggest consumer in this video was running an oven. Cheers!

[@LandMineFX]

Does anyone know if he has a video that talks about how the vacuum is set up?

[@Danny.._]

He does, I think the best explanation is in the really long one, XCI_FPDQA-U

[@Danny.._]

@ShakeTheFuture - I think it would be a good idea to clip segments about each topic to make shorter videos to reference without having to find the right spot in an hour-long video, lol

[@ShakeTheFuture]

@@Danny.._ Thanks for the suggestion. I'll need to do that.

[@wardle1392]

A series of you upgrading you set up using your set up would be amazing

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I was thinking to cast a vacuum cleaner adapter out of metal. I don´t know if I have enough things to cast to make series out of it, but that one part I will. Thank You Very much for the suggestion.

[@andysmith8221]

Loved the video! Just one observation - 1 and 6 should be opposite faces - opposites should add to 7. Apart from that you got me looking lovingly at the wife's microwave!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thanks! Someone else mentioned that too. I had no idea there was such a rule. I thought you could place the numbers however you wanted... and I guess you can, but I didn’t know there’s a common practice that dice makers follow. Cheers!

[@Nightspyz1]

Countless men’s ambitions withered in the silence of thin walls, their dreams stifled by the constant echo of a neighbor’s footsteps Humanity's dreams have stagnated, weighed down by the chains of routine and the comfort of mediocrity, as the fire of ambition flickers in a world content with less.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Wow!

[@urownpersonalgod]

Truly awesome methodology. Cant imagine how many times you have burned yourself with that microwave furnace set up. Outstanding

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thank you very much! Luckily, I haven’t had any serious burns. There have been times when I picked up a cast part that was still hot or forgot the crucible was still hot and tried to move it without gloves. But those are just general metal melting mistakes, not specific to my setup. I hope I can keep it that way. I’ve definitely improved my PPE game, so that helps. Cheers!

[@Zalo29]

Gorgeous humour! I love it 😂🎉

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thank you very much! It’s great to get feedback to know whether people enjoy these kinds of jokes or not. Cheers!

[@enricotosco]

Il tuo lavoro è fantastico, non vedo l'ora di replicarlo nel mio laboratorio!!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thanks!

[@KORUPTable]

22:56 HEY THAT'S ME IN THE WINDOW!!! CRAZY

[@ShakeTheFuture]

You never know

[@GoatZilla]

is there a resonance test mode on the printer that will make it vibrate the bed at higher frequencies?

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I’m not sure about Prusa, but people say Bambu printers have one. There must be a way to vibrate the build plate at higher frequencies - I just haven’t explored it. I also have more aggressive bed-shaking G-codes, but I’m careful with them. At the end of the day, the printer wasn’t made for that, and I don’t want to break it! 😃

[@TimHollingworth]

Interested to learn that you can melt aluminium in a microwave! 🤔 Where do you get your crucible from. I may be interested in doing so melting and moulding. 😁

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I made it in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmK5nnyPncqoi5Y Thanks!

[@TheSomar1991]

As usual very interesting video keep it up

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thank You very much!

[@joaomrtins]

What was the factor for deciding for plaster mould instead of sand mould? The ones in this video could be sand I think, should be cheaper. Also doesn't plaster revert back to "unused" form after heated to about 300°C? How is the drying cycle done?

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I’ve never done sand casting, which is one of the reasons I stick with investment casting - I just enjoy it. Sure, sand casting is cheaper and faster, but I prefer working with plaster for most of my molds, and it can handle quite a bit of heat. When I burn out molds in a microwave kiln, the temperature usually reaches between 350-400°C. I’ve also heated plaster molds to over 500°C without issues, but I don´t hold the temperature for too long, only for a short time. When I use the 'Print Wave Casting' method - meaning the molds are 3D printed (like the dice or the last part), micro-waved, oven-dried, and then cast - the molds are dried in either an oven or an air fryer. I start with a low temperature and gradually bake the molds at the highest temperature my oven or air fryer can handle. This process takes several hours, and that’s it! For the microwave kiln, I first dry the molds a bit in the air fryer to reduce moisture. Then, I transfer them to the microwave kiln and use a cycle timer to control the microwave. The molds are burned out just like in a regular burnout oven or kiln - but in my case, it’s done with the microwave. I have a video where I explain mold burnout in a microwave in more detail: 👉 kzbin.info/www/bejne/jnSskHmGebZ0Y7c Cheers!

[@Grizzly_Lab]

Very interesting solutions, and interesting video as usual 👍👍👍 but now sorry: i need to go take a look to that singing cat video 😹😹😹😹😹😹😹

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thanks!

[@sumguysr]

Have you tried making investment? It looks to me like dropping ammonia in sodium silicate can produce the colloidal silica needed, and kaolin keeps it suspended.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I have tried to add *things* to Plaster of Paris as well as professional investment powders. Don't know if that counts. I have tried adding sand, talc powder, fibre glass, silicon carbide, boron nitride.......at the moment nothing else comes to mind, probably a few other things I don't remember. So not really from the scratch. So far the only thing I keep adding, but not always is sand. Cheers!

[@Volkkier]

Does the microwave itself require any modification? Like on the electronics or the inside walls ?

[@ShakeTheFuture]

No, it doesn’t. It’s just an ordinary microwave. I covered the inside with aluminum tape to protect it in case I decided to stop melting metals and use it as intended. Clearly, that didn’t happen - I still use it to melt metals, and it’s looking rough, but that’s normal after 4.5 years of use. One thing I did do was remove the rotating motor, but that was only because at one point I was experimenting with adding an extractor fan. In other words, it's just a normal, worn down microwave.

[@truthreigns7]

0:53 I remember you back then in your videos

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Oh yes. I have a few videos that I made in the past for entertainment purposes. Now I am using them as a b-roll footage. Some of those videos fit like a glove. Cheers!

[@truthreigns7]

@ShakeTheFuture yes sir

[@ThePhiphler]

Air fryer is probably much better than oven for drying the moulds, air fryers are great for creating hot and dry conditions due to the very strong convection.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I did buy an air fryer for that exact purpose. It can reach temperatures up to 230°C, but it’s not as effective as my oven. My oven also has a fan that I turn on. The air fryer works, but it needs more time. I only recently managed to successfully dry the mold in the air fryer. When I first tried it, it seemed like it wasn’t enough - the molds kept retaining moisture. As a final experiment, I left the mold in the air fryer for 12 hours, and it worked. I’ll be doing more tests to see how much time I actually need. Cheers!

[@ThePhiphler]

@@ShakeTheFuture Very interesting, that would imply thats it the total heat finishing the chemical reactions, rather than drying out moisture, which is making the moulds finished and usable.

[@myshopmyrules.3017]

I found your channel today. How much metal can you melt in the micro? I got many things i want to cast in aluminium and cast iron. For now they are small projects, but i would like to know the volume limit if possible.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I’m glad you did! This was my biggest aluminum melt - I believe it was around 450g in the crucible. I could definitely melt more. Aluminum isn’t that difficult to melt; it’s really just about whether it fits in the microwave. Cast iron, on the other hand, isn’t as easy to melt, so you’ll need to use smaller crucibles. Realistically, you can melt up to 300g. More might be possible with a slightly different method, which I’ll be making a video about soon - but we’ll cross that bridge when we get there. Cheers!

[@C134B]

Napoleon used aluminum cutlery for hist most honored guests, now we the poor use it the most. Maybe in the future gold will be again cheaper than silver, who knows

[@ThylineTheGay]

No, aluminum was expensive because modern refining processes weren't discovered yet, gold however is actually rare

[@ShakeTheFuture]

When I was in school back in the 90s, we used to have aluminum cutlery. That was back in Latvia. I still remember the taste of an aluminum fork (kind of). Those were probably the final years of using aluminum cutlery. I am sure it was a nightmare for the school. They must have had to throw away a lot of it because it was too tempting for the kids to bend it and break it.

[@shamon351]

Great video ! Where are you from ?

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Thanks! I am originally from Latvia, living in Spain.

[@mspeir]

Wait wait wait! More "Cat in the box"!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I am saving it for a metal casting video where I'll be making a box...maybe 😉

[@AnJo888]

Should've used the vise to flatten the pieces...

[@ShakeTheFuture]

The vise was half-broken and not very good. You can’t really tell in the video… In other words it would not have been easier. Anyway, since publishing it, I’ve purchased another vise. It’s not much bigger, but at least it’s not broken. Cheers!

[@peters7413]

You need to show time and watt for the Microwave

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Well, the time can depend on various factors, so I didn’t mention it in this video, but I have in others. It’s a 900W microwave, and melting aluminum for the dice took around 25 minutes. Then I added more metal and microwaved it a bit longer. Same with the final cast. Around 25 minutes before I adding more metal. It can be done faster, but with this crucible and chamber, that’s how long it took. Cheers!

[@faidatepergiovanotti4325]

plaser even if fully dried. can absorsb humiodity from the air. sile silica gel or rice. thats the reason you are having problems.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

That´s a good point. I normally try to leave the mold in the oven until I cast. Not necessary hot, but ways from the humidity.

[@delhog6161]

WOW!

[@robot797]

but smoke alarms have a snooze button and its extremly usefull

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Yep, I agree 😀

[@truthreigns7]

1:42 - 2:03 in my opinion, that is nice music.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Oh yes, I like it too! I even considered including shots where I dance to it 😂, but sometimes it’s better to let the video go and publish it as is. Those little things - adjustments, adding funny b-rolls - can add up and delay the publishing date, so I decided not to. Cheers!

[@truthreigns7]

@ShakeTheFuture I understand

[@generalfishcake]

You should buy a cheap percussion massager to remove the air bubbles from the casting. Trust me.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I normally use a reciprocating saw, and it works pretty well. I didn’t use it for the remote control’s cover because it was too late, and I didn’t want to make noise. That said, I suppose a percussion massager is not as loud, so I might get one. Thanks for the suggestion!

[@Mr.Unacceptable]

Why not use sand casting for some of these parts? Your molds would be created so much faster.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Well, I don’t use sand casting, and I don’t think you could make the dice with traditional sand casting - the dots would likely break off. The last part would also be tricky because of the 'fillet' hole. If it were just a simple hole, it would be much easier. Of course, you could fillet the hole later with a step-up drill, but that wouldn’t be as interesting. The purpose of these videos isn’t always to find the easiest way to do something - it’s to showcase methods that, hopefully, people haven’t seen before. Cheers!

[@Mr.Unacceptable]

@@ShakeTheFuture Understood. I've done my share of sand casting and it does have it's limitations. I see you fighting moisture you wouldn't have issues with objects more ideal for sand casting but now i understand why.

[@gF1RWwZJM80QvEh9]

If you are accepting ideas for videos, I would be interested to hear how much money you are spending running the microwave compared to how much you would spend on a propane furnace.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Yes, I am open to ideas. It was suggested before, and I did buy a power meter for that purpose. I haven’t taken it out of the box yet, but yes, that video is planned. I won’t be able to compare it with a propane furnace as I don’t have one, but I can tell how much it costs to run the microwave. Cheers!

[@JorgeALXNDR]

My guy even paused a bit in order to say aluminum instead of saying it the right way

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Oh, well, if you go back far enough, I couldn't tell you the exact video, but I actually used to say it the "right" way. Then it somehow merged into the other way of saying it. That’s what happens when you don’t live in the USA or the UK - your accent becomes the accent of the world. It’s like the "tomato" (tuh-MAH-toh... or tuh-MAY-toh) thing. I can say it the other way. Please vote which way you prefer, so I know if adjustments are needed 😁

[@JorgeALXNDR]

@ShakeTheFuture I'm brazilian and here we say alumínio which sounds way more like aluminium than aluminum. That's why it's the right way to me 🤣

[@FartyPants49]

Short attention span ties into the dumbing-down of the working class population.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

It’s definitely becoming an issue these days. Short videos are great, but constant screen swiping trains your brain to always look for something better to watch.

[@Milkex]

>me living under you wondering why its raining aluminium on my bed /s*

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Luckily, I’m doing this on the balcony, and there are no areas directly below with beds. The windows are shut, so there’s no chance of creating 'aluminum rain' for people passing by. I’m only melting small amounts - not nearly enough for it to pour. I’d never attempt to melt large quantities of metal on my balcony, like people do with Devil’s Forge. What I’m doing is pretty much the same as jewelers or dental technicians - melting small amounts indoors. I also take all necessary precautions, including having smoke alarms, fire extinguishers, and following mostly proper safety procedures. Cheers!

[@Milkex]

@ShakeTheFuture oh, bro. I was totally being sarcastic! just judging by your interests I know you're waaaaaay too intelligent to not have put* serious thought into all this, and I have an old microwave we just replaced that I can start doing this in my garage. you're an inspiration!

[@ShakeTheFuture]

@@Milkex I understand, but I had to give you a full answer in case you were not sarcastic

[@Milkex]

@ShakeTheFuture Entirely fair, and good for anyone coming upon my comment. I edited the original with a '/s' to show sarcasm. I'll have to remember that from now on

[@TheProgan]

I'm pretty sure youtubers are against eye protection 😂

[@ShakeTheFuture]

I am not. I wear a face shield. But, there is definitely space for improvement 😀

[@Danny.._]

that 3d model is a bit off - the dots are in the wrong positions

[@Danny.._]

(opposite faces should add up to 7, so 6 should be across from 1, 5 across from 2, 4 across from 3)

[@ShakeTheFuture]

@@Danny.._ What do you mean? If there is some kind of Dice making rule? Then it's possible. I was just making something that looks like a dice 😂It's totally possible that it does not meet official dice standards. Thanks!

[@Danny.._]

@@ShakeTheFuture Yeah, if you look at dice from a board game or something, you'll see the opposite sides always add up to 7. They even do the same thing on bigger dice for things like dungeons and dragons - when the dice go up to 20, opposite sides add up to 21. There's actually no official rule and it doesn't really matter, but that's just the way it's always done.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

@@Danny.._ That's something I did not know. Thanks!

[@maciej9280]

your electric bill must be crazy ;)

[@eslmatt811]

Check out his earlier videos, but I think it is only 800w. On a duty cycle. The insulation makes it quite efficient.

[@ShakeTheFuture]

The microwave doesn't use that much power. I will have a video about it; I bought a power meter a few months ago, but I haven't used it yet. In this case, drying the mold in the oven was the most expensive part. Cheers!

[@Sir-Dexter]

nice

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Cheers!

[@sierraecho884]

Kind of sad, it was a cool chair

[@ShakeTheFuture]

Cool, but not great. I bought it new for 25 euros. The first thing I thought when I got it was, “Oh… I might buy one for my mother-in-law’s house.” But then I tried it out and understood why it was so cheap. It’s not like one of those sturdy outdoor pub chairs - it was very wobbly, so I have no hard feelings about melting it! :)

[@sierraecho884]

@@ShakeTheFuture Yeah I see. I can understand your decision. Looked great though, design vise. Well done on the castings and innovation btw, I really like your attitude =)

[@greatnate29]

I hated the cat in a box jump scare

[@ShakeTheFuture]

He, he...Sorry!

[@frankytank108]

Please don't cut your fingernails that much

[@ShakeTheFuture]

That´s a difficult one......