Can you SOLDER a copper joint with a 5$ MINI-TORCH? | GOT2LEARN

[@IkeandMike1]

this is great, I have a kitchen butane torch rated at 1300C/2400F that I wanted to use to desolder a copper pipe to the hot water heater. Thanks!

[@sherrimorana4676]

Wow that is so clever! Cool thing to do if your stuck, at least it's cheap and it works 😃👏🏻👍🏻 Good job !!!

[@Got2Learn]

Yes, it's a clever "plan B" ;)

[@The_Cobalt_Lair]

Thanks so much for answering My burning question! I have a small project which I’ll use 1/2” pipe & fittings, I use silver brite solder which flows at 400-ish degrees so I’m gonna try using My $5.00 torch.

[@heroknaderi]

Thanks for sharing I appreciate it this seems great for small projects I’m adding a sink for a new bathroom addition and only need to make two joints 🤩👍

[@wyattsdad8561]

Your vids are great! It's science and handy tips useful to anyone.

[@Got2Learn]

Thanks so much!

[@AutoANDmore]

Smart idea . Keep it this way .

[@Got2Learn]

Thanks buddy!!!

[@BratvaTV]

That was both fun and helpful.

[@Got2Learn]

🤗

[@mrarfarf]

Thank you, finally something thinking of trying new ideas

[@Got2Learn]

🤝

[@Got2Learn]

Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!

[@Peter-.H]

Wow buddy, this video is really cool and interesting. I like your idea of testing new products. I learned something new today, i never would have thought this little gadget would be able to do that. Thanks and have a great day 👍

[@Got2Learn]

You'll be seeing more videos like this one, stay tuned :)

[@Peter-.H]

Got2Learn : fantastic, that’s great news😀

[@Got2Learn]

It sure is, if you have anymore ideas of products, lemme know!

[@dimitar4y]

nice trick with the "fast removal" of the cap.

[@ARCSTREAMS]

what trick

[@jdog4534]

The thing about soldering copper is coppers thermal conductivity. That's the way copper absorbs and transfers heat. .you can solder copper with a bic lighter as long as it's a small amount of copper. It will absorb and distribute heat until the point where the heat fills the area so much that the copper can't keep up and then heats up enough to melt solder. The thing about heat is that it's always rising.. So the copper will be constantly absorbing and distributing the heat while the heat is constantly rising and escaping . Thats why you can't get a whole stick of any size or type to get cherry hot or even warm if you heat only one end of it cherry hot. The copper will try to suck it all up and distribute it to the other end but will only go so far because the heat is always rising. There sre other factors to consider too , like convection/radiation (?) Where chsnges in temperatures pulls heat or a breeze will pull heat off, stuff like that. It may not seem like much but it can make a big difference in penetration or the amount of heat needed before solder flows. Another thing that will cool down a joint quite a bit is when the solder is introduced. It can be seen with a naked eye when brazing. Anyone who's ever brazed copper using sil=phos 15 or whatever (ive been brazing for many years and I just found out they make a 0. ..and it flows pretty good, better than the 5). Once the whole joint is glowing orange, as soon as the rod is introduced, you will notice a shadow move into the joint like a wave. Many people mistake that wave for molten rod filling the joint. Those who have ever got their brazing cert for medgas piping and relied on that shadow as if it was penetration when brazing up their coupon to send to the state , they get heart broken when they cut that 12 o'clock section out to reveal the "holiday" at the bottom of the joint and all that time n prep ...and material was wasted. That shadow is the copper cooling down .from the lower temp of the rod. Heat follows cold so the heat runs onto the rod which cools off the copper enough for it to lose some of the orange color. ... Bottom line, dont expect that torch to do much more than that. I assume you're using type M? I doubt it would get much penetration on a 3/4"Ø type L joint. ..outside. or in front of a fan. Cool video tho. Keep 'em coming..

[@Got2Learn]

Very educative comment, yes this was type m, but I am pretty sure type L 1/2" would be the limit with this method, as you said it's not strong enough ;)

[@thestagerocks]

That makes so much sense.

[@lichkingvilardo]

That was a neat video. Cool!

[@Got2Learn]

Well thank you!

[@Therealmartinla]

Smart idea

[@ARCSTREAMS]

surprised this worked with that amount of copper conducting heat like a leaking sieve

[@mazarat4768]

This resource is suitable for air conditioning systems. Air conditioning pipe to boil

[@Got2Learn]

;)

[@davesstuff1599]

Seemed to work pretty good. By the way that pressure test wasn't really accurate as there was air in the pipe which can be compressed. Have to bleed the pipe first since water is not compressable and will pinpoint leaks.

[@Got2Learn]

The air would of came out by the leak if there was one ;)

[@waterheaterservices]

Got2Learn Yes, plumbers often use air, not water, to leak test. Even smoke to locate leaks in drain/waste/vent pipes.

[@jayryan7473]

@@Got2Learn That was a bad test! The proper way is to purge the air first. We have no idea if air was escaping.

[@Dan.Solo.Chicago]

Ok. How about a soldering iron? Would that work?

[@LZ2SM]

I fixed my brass radiator with torch like this

[@M.E63]

I don’t know if this will work on a proper system, a proper system has long pipes going all round the house, so due to heat dissipation it will take a lot longer to get the solder to melt properly

[@superultramegamaga4021]

nice!!!..

[@Got2Play]

You never know lol ;)

[@AnilKumar-tn4gx]

How much bro its price

[@Got2Learn]

5$ ;)

[@user-gre57bbd674]

Ну мягкий (низкотемпературный) припой почему бы и не запаять такой зажигалкой.

[@ToJoseGarcia]

Silver rod bro?

[@Got2Learn]

Nope.

[@dongua1231]

Very portable, Electric Car🐶🏖🌰🐿

[@deedee_31]

who read the title and thought it was about a marijuana joint came here and was disappointed haha (i really wasnt disappointed)

[@samanthajennings5146]

Type L copper would be harder are even K

[@Got2Learn]

I don't understand.

[@waterheaterservices]

Got2Learn Possibly harder because thicker tube wall, more mass to heat.

[@LordxJoe]

DUDE! Don't use rubber gloves.....

[@jayryan7473]

Um... I'm not sure about your technique in this video. It's hard to tell if enough solder melted into the joints. If that's a 3/4" pipe then you should put a bend in your solder 3/4" from the end. Each joint should use about 3/4" of solder.

[@Got2Learn]

It was 1/2" and it worked perfectly fine 👍

[@dimitar4y]

1 year later: "I'm not sure about your technique" says you with what plumbing experience? Have you even soldered ONE pipe?