RGB Pixel Distance Test - HOW FAR IS TOO FAR? (2018)

[@texlab1111]

Man just really appreciate the time you take to put this stuff out there for us rookies. Thank you and hope your wife is recovering well and doesn't smack you around so much! :-)

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks! She's on the mend and still quite sassy. I do give her first right of refusal anytime I talk about her before the video goes out. :)

[@ma6cb]

I guess this happens because the data line drops voltage to the point that the 0.7*supply voltage (for 5v pixels) starts to fall below the threshold. If you power close to the leds but run a long data line then you can use a simple 5v powered logic chip to reboot the voltage located at the end of your data run. I used a 74hc04 inverter (powered from 5v but takes input voltage from 2 to 6v) and connected 2 of the inverter together to make a simple voltage booster. Because it accepts 2 to 6v input it means you can always use one at the beginning of a string. Keeps the data line high, if you are using 5v pixels it's easy to power and sorts out the flickering issues :)

[@CanispaterChristmas]

👍

[@krugtech]

I just run cat5e for the data and I use isolated 110vac power supplies at my injection points. no data pair common/ground/0v line should ever see power current.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Nice!

[@MotoMerica]

Great video thanks. Quick question I'm just getting into the hobby adventure. Which end of an xconnector pixel strand connects to the controller. Which end is first pixel? Also is the Male end of the pigtail the end with exposed pins like other electrical connections? I see many people have pins exposed "male"? pigtails connected to their controllers. Please help - confused. Thanks

[@CanispaterChristmas]

If you examine the pixels closely (might need a magnifying glass), all digital pixels have 12V or 5V, GND or "-" and DI or DO printed on the tiny circuit board. DI is the "data-input" input side from the controller. DO is "data-out" to the next pixel. I don't know if there is a standard, but the DI/DO check always works.

[@MotoMerica]

@@CanispaterChristmas Thank-you

[@MrSpalmer70]

My wife gave me the green light to buy the Falcon f16v3. I am just confused as to what pigtails to order it with (I am doing the ready to run option). Right now I am running Nodemcu's for my lights, so I do not have pigtails. What is your suggestion as to pigtail option.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Cool! xConnect seems to be the latest rage.

[@thecrumeister365]

I'd be curious to know your how far you can push the data only by doing power injection at the RGB's with a separate power supply. I have some RGB's that are about 65ft from my controller and wonder if I will be able to push the data only that far and have a separate power supply at the RGBs.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

You would still need the negative side connected to prevent stray voltages on the data line. I believe it's been tested that far without an issue. Give it a try. :)

[@strohslights4996]

We are able to do 40ft. 100% white over CAT 5E with 50 5V pixels or 100 5V pixels with power injection. I believe the flicker you are experiencing is electromagnetic interference with the data signal created by the coil in the wire. We get the same type of flicker if we coil the wire. We have also experimented with doorbell wire for the data line and it works well at 40-50ft range too.

[@strohslights4996]

Small update on this. We did our testing with a T-1000 and SP105E controller for convenience. They appear to have a stronger data signal than the Falcon16 or the PIXIE16. On both the Falcon16 and the PIXIE16 we had some flickering in a few of the pixel trees and had to shorten the distance to about 35ft. We still had 1 tree with an issue. One thing we noticed that made a big difference on flicker was making sure the copper of the data wire is touching copper of the contact point or copper of the data-wire attached to the first pixel when they are soldered. If the data signal has to traverse solder it shortens the distance significantly to 5-10ft. This is a cautionary tail for those the put a bit of solder on each wire before they solder them together.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks! Ethernet cable in general just doesn't have enough copper in it to carry the current load. It works for small strings, but I noticed some heating when I tried it so not a recommended option. Changing the output resistor networks on the F16 is an option to get greater distance, but I haven't tried it yet. Others have reported good results.

[@dharnish256]

Does this mean you don't need an F-Amp? What about when you go from one fixture to another that is say 15 feet away daisy chained?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

You'll have to experiment. Some pixels do better than others.

[@jayeff7900]

Darn, was hoping you'd test how far the 'data' line could run... Can you do a test where just the data/ground (and clock/ground, if applicable) is going through the CAT5 cable, and you have a power supply set up at the remote string of lights? Thanks!

[@CanispaterChristmas]

The modular pixels I used in this demo turned out to be defective (see the end of year video). I believe David has done one roughly 75-feet with good pixels. For longer distances, you'd need to either put F-Amps in the line or use Differential Receivers.

[@jayeff7900]

​@@CanispaterChristmas Nice, thanks for the info! I'm currently using an old modified Olsen 595 dimmer design (good for incandescent string lights), and I can go about 100 feet on CAT5 between each 595 dimmer PCB and an Arduino interface hooked up to the laptop inside my house. It's pretty limited in Christmas light displays since my setup can only control 32 strings of lights, so it's hard to do basic things like color-change effects without running out of channels, and it definitely doesn't control individual bulbs on a string of lights. But it's great for Halloween displays, where I can use Vixen to toggle strobe lights, blacklights, and other cool Halloween props while dimming and blinking strings of creepy Edison-style incandescent bulbs strung all over the front porch. But for Christmas light displays, I'd like to retire the Olsen 595 and get into pixel lights, and am trying to figure out where to start - put a 'ready to go' Falcon controller in the basement with data cables running out the window to each bank of pixel lights (provided the data can travel that far), or use smaller controllers placed closer to each group of display elements. Or just buy a controller and a few strings of pixel lights and start experimenting until I figure out what I can get away with. Thanks again for the reply, and thanks for posting these educational videos, they really clear up a lot of the questions I've got running around in my brain.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Well, you could start with an F16 and experiment. That's probably the cheapest option. The next step up is an F48. The advantage is long distances using Ethernet cable from the controller and power is near the prop. It's more expensive because you also need the Differential Receiver boards, but that is definitely the best option if you have props spread over a wide area and want to put the controller in the basement.

[@jayeff7900]

@@CanispaterChristmas ​ Thanks for the info, I appreciate it! I ordered an F16 and a few strings of WS2811 5v lights to play with, and I already have a bunch of ATX power supplies laying around the basement. So it's going to do one of two things: light up and look amazing, or catch on fire and set off the smoke alarm again.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

@@jayeff7900 Maybe wait until December 31st so you'll at least have some sort of show. lol!

[@08Budweiser]

I run some 60 feet with the Ray cables from HolidayCoro and e682 cards. John sent some different resistors and works great.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Yeah, that's a more advanced way around the problem. lol!

[@bleudj]

Old video I know but this kind of distance is only available with this falcon controller right? Not with a nodemcu?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Getting a little out of my area there, but I believe there is some sort of amplification circuit on the Falcons. However, he also sells the F-amps which might help with the nodemcu.

[@bleudj]

@@CanispaterChristmas thank you for the reply! watched a video from dr. z and it appears I need to amplify signal by taking out the first LED. for now being my first set up ill just leave it the way it is, and get me a falcon controller at some point. thanks for the great videos!

[@godfrey12121]

Can you post a video on the Falcon F16v3 how to setup a stand alone laptop (no internet) with the controller

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Just run an Ethernet cable from the computer to the controller and set static IP addresses for both. You can set the Falcon's IP using the switches.

[@godfrey12121]

Thanks Jeff, Do you have any video to help me

[@CanispaterChristmas]

I don't believe I have anything that covers this case specifically. Do you know how to set a static IP address on the computer?

[@godfrey12121]

Jeff, thank youcan you please verify this video and say it is correct

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Of course the video is correct, but which part? What are you trying to do?

[@richardpinder3560]

So this is only showing the limitation of power right? So you could run just the data lets say 100' away and inject power right where the lights start and that would avoid any of these issues assuming you dont have too many pixels on the stand that you are injecting power into?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Well, this was before I found out that the one set of pixels was defective. However, data and ground needs to go the distance. You might be able to put power near the prop, but that wasn't the purpose of the video. It's kinda what the Falcon differential receivers do though. Honestly, just another tool in the box.

[@richardpinder3560]

@@CanispaterChristmas Oh thank you, I was just trying to get my head around it all . Love the videos I will be starting my own display after watching your videos, prob not time to get much done this year but loads of time for xmas 2021

[@CanispaterChristmas]

@@richardpinder3560 Thanks! Normally, I'd say you still have time, but this year is crazy so probably good to go with your plan. 😂

[@robdaugherty2010]

Can I get started playing with just a string of led pixels, power supply, and raspberry pi? I have already downloaded xlights on my MacBook Air.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

You'd need a Pi-cap (pixelcontroller.com) to connect the pixels. I don't believe FPP can bitbang them over the GPIO pins.

[@robdaugherty2010]

What if I used an Arduino instead?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

I don't use them in my show so I won't be much help. I know people do, but I don't keep up with that. I loaded up a NodeMCU once with ESPixelStick software a couple of years ago so that's the extent of my knowledge, but I believe there's software for the D1 minis now. You might check the forums or FB groups.

[@colinturner7363]

ive used 18awg speaker cable with no problems but i dont run mine at 100% i run mine between 10-20% because at 100% i found the pizels blinded you and the amount used in props and trees etc the max brightness wasnt needed really. for my main cable from controller to start of lights string i use 0.75mm flex eiuther black or white epending what i have to hand but always 0.75 max length is about 8 meters with no problem.

[@jonathanbutton1]

I am using 12V pixels and 18/4 stranded wire. I am running from my PixLite Mk2 controller to the first prop, then continuing on to the 2nd prop with the 18/4 wire that I am joining using solder seals to connect the two. Any idea what the max distance might be, that I could have in between the props before I would experience a data signal loss? Power injection isn't a problem as I can easily run a additional Power Injection wire, but I am really concerned about the data line. Would I have to or Could I add null pixels to help the data signal?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Pixel-to-pixel distance is on the order of inches to a foot or so. You may need to add something like an F-Amp (www.pixelcontroller.com/store/index.php?id_product=53&controller=product) after the first prop to get it to go far enough. Just try it and see if it works. If not, it's probably a signal problem and you'll need to boost the signal. I did a video on F-Amps: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2KWhaSqha12prM

[@jonathanbutton1]

@@CanispaterChristmas Thanks for the tips on the F-Amps. I did not originally see that video. These could definitely be useful. I also watched your video on the cable snake, where you used a CAT5 cable for the data line rather then the 3rd wire included with the power. Do you think this might also work/help improve the data signal in between prop to prop and increase the distance between them?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Maybe, but the problem is the signal from a controller is huge, but from a pixel it is very small and only designed to go the 4" or so to the next pixel.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Like I say, experiment with it.

[@jonathanbutton1]

Is the Hex Fuse (8:00 min mark) that you mentioned in the video equivalent to the Falcon Distro f8? Do you have a link to the one that you've used in the video? Or name/model?

[@frankl6684]

Has anyone ever talked about using 2 power supplies for 1 controller. Like using one power supply to power a f48 receiver board and using a different power supply to power the distro board that power injects the same pixels as the first power supply?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

I always split the positive if I'm powering the same string with 2 power supplies.

[@frankl6684]

Thanks for the reply Jeff. Keep up the good work with the videos. It’s thanks to your video library that i pulled the plug and ordered my first 7000 pixels. Appreciate all the work you put into your videos. 👍👍

[@CanispaterChristmas]

HAHA! That's a lot of pixels! I only have about 4k.

[@Andrewtheincubs]

How do you adjust the brightness in xlights? also if you used power injection would that have fixed the problem with the flickering?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Haha. Turns out, the encapsulated strip pixels were defective. Now you know what "promotional" means. You can adjust the brightness in xLights by changing the "Set Brightness" setting on the model.

[@Andrewtheincubs]

@@CanispaterChristmas thanks

[@brettbarnett9823]

My question for you is kind of along the same lines, but I was curious about the data side of this. I have a 5 volt TPLink 5 port switch.. Not POE, just a switch. How far can you run a CAT5 or CAT6 cable out to other controllers in the yard and still maintain data signal to get to them? I am looking at possibly a 100 foot run from the switch to say an E682, or E6804. Thanks for ALL of the useful info that you give in all your videos!!

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks! The Ethernet spec is 100m or 328ft. So that is the distance limit switch to switch or switch to controller.

[@terrym4393]

Isn't the key to use ethernet cable is combining the wires to make an effective larger cable?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Yes, but it’s still not a lot of copper compared to larger wire sizes.

[@terrym4393]

But I think you still need to combine some.

[@joshuadickson4862]

Great video! Your videos have really helped me get started in this hobby. I have a question. If I only had a Falcon F16v3 and had long runs what would be the solution?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Haha. Depends on how long we're talking, but there's a differential expansion board you could add to get distance for 4 chains of smart receivers. How long and how many props will determine your path.

[@Alan_Hans__]

Seeing the temp and voltage is great. Here in Australia we're often turning on our lights at Xmas when the temp is 35C/95F so the temperature is going to be exacerbated down here. If you happen to be using the godawful CCA cat5 cable then the temperature coefficient of resistance will make things even worse. Keep up with the great videos.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thank YOU for your technical explanation of CAT5 cable in this use case.

[@darzoom]

Was it a data signal loss or voltage? Seem voltage and I would think injection would solve the issue. Thoughts?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Ultimately, a bad string of pixels. lol!

[@skrame01]

I've had a few props where I used a 300 to 500 ohm resistor at the pixel end of a long data extension wire from a controller to the pixels. The resistor cleared up problems I was having with bad display of data, flickering or random corruption. This was cleared up by using the resistor, this was when the data wire to the controller was about 5 feet or more. I highly recommend trying this in this situation.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks for the tip!

[@skrame01]

@@CanispaterChristmas Thanks, something I learned from Adafruit. It helps to properly terminate the signal reflections in the wire, something to do with inductance.

[@epoweredrc]

just what i wanted to know... I don't want to put my raspberry pi outside so need a extension between it and the pixels.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

There are several tricks, but each display is different. Hope that helped.

[@RHovis]

Great information ty. What are the best uses of the 3 pixel rectangular pixels.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks! I'm planning to use them to replace the pixels on my failed wall washer. Should look like a giant horizontal VU meter! If that doesn't work (based on numbers and performance), short verticals of some kind.

[@ducebigalow8834]

what type of pixel would you recommend for outlining parts of a house? Initially I was thinking the flat, but now I am thinking of strip inside of a defuser which would give me a cleaner look, and I think easier for mounting, instead of all the wiring from behind each pixel. Your thoughts?

[@CanispaterChristmas]

I love the hassle of putting up regular pixels. lol! I have noticed interference from strip lights (assuming the metal PCB it’s all mounted on). I had some mounted around my garage door and it interfered with the opener). It should look good tho!

[@ducebigalow8834]

CanispaterChristmas hmmm😁 Well I don't have a garage door so check there. In your opinion would it be easier to use the strips in a metal channel covered with a defuser? Originally I was going to use the flat pixels in the core strip and then mount to the house but then I got thinking of all the wires sticking out from the pixels. Thanks

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Yeah, you have to mount them a couple of inches away due to the wires. Strip in pex is probably easier and as long as it doesn't interfere with anything you're probably good. Might run some tests. Metal channel is probably going to be similar to flat pixels as far a installation time.

[@envisionelectronics]

Seems like you can boost your voltage to 48V then use a 48-12V DC-DC converter at the end. Fewer losses over the run and up to 90W per the 802.3bt spec. But that’s just using 4 conductors. Push it to “DIY” spec using six conductors and I’d bet you can get over 130W out of it. Diff transceivers at both ends. I’m planning to find out through an extensive series of tests.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Cool. Let me know the results.

[@danbell8508]

Good morning sir. I love your videos very much. I have been learning about the lights for over a year now. Thanks for sharing your wisdom. This video just confirmed what I have thought for a while. You make it fun to learn from you. I'm going to try to run a show this year. I have one mega tree already. I used bullet pixels at 30 high and 16 strings. I used 16 channels using the falcon 16v3. Can I tie 3 strings together so I can gain use of more channels for other props and have it still work correctly? Or even 4? The reason I'm asking is that I am going to add another mega tree to I have one right and one left. Thanks for your vids again. Dan Bell in Modesto Ca.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks! The F16V3 can support up to 1,024 pixels per port assuming you don't have any expansion cards attached. You can make longer strings to free up some ports, but may need to inject power if the pixels look funny toward the end of the string (usually look dim or the whites look yellow). For example, my mega tree is 1,200 pixels, 4 strings of 300 pixels zig-zagged at 50 so it looks like 24 strings of lights. I use 4 controller ports and power is injected at the end of each of the 4, 300-pixel strings (so the strings get power from both ends). I also run my pixels at 30% which further reduces power problems.

[@joemiddlebrooks4323]

Great video! I was able to understand my flickering issue on anything above 30% with 35ft 3C cables between controller and strings.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Awesome! Glad it helped!

[@lmjhalloween]

If you use xLights, could you please reply or make a video that shows how to start a show on xLights? If so thank you!

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Have you gone through RGB Pixel Sequencing kzbin.info/aero/PLFyrAfJ-kKd6idliPge_XPZOEE7BwxJKC

[@tonyclixby]

Just taking time out to thank you so much for your entertaining and informative videos. I started on the journey a week ago. So far I have managed to make a MUSICAL SEQUENCE in Xlights, upload it and light up my life. Please, please, keep up the good work.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks! Haha! I will. Just working on a different project for the first half of the year. Lighting season kicks off in mid-July at Christmas Expo and the Powerwall (cart) will be done soon. :)

[@crashtfa]

So the comments about Ethernet and power, I would suggest you lookup 802.3af, aka power over Ethernet, now the max the spec would allow is 15.4w but if you were to double or triple up on the wires for pwr and gnd I would see why you couldn’t push that higher

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Yeah. A typical string of 100 5V pixels is ~30W at full brightness, all white. It works, just not recommended.

[@timpeterson2738]

Thank you for this testing, very useful for me.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

👍

[@alexandercooke1186]

Thank you Jeff, you’re videos are always very helpful!

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks!

[@jspiker77]

This is a great video, appreciate you taking the time to put it together. The only other test that would be interesting in this side by side is using 18/4 with 1 for data, 1 for V+ and 2 for V-. In my own testing the results are similar to C5/6 but the wire is easier to work with and cheaper.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks! As Alan stated in the comments of the video I pulled down, ethernet cable is better at handling data due to it's low capacitance characteristics, but not suited to handle power due to the lack of sufficient copper. I wonder if it's better grounding the clock lead if you don't use it? I will definitely try that soon with the 3-LED pixels that don't seem to handle distance as well as the square pixels. 18/4 is a great idea though. I'll give it a try!

[@jspiker77]

The idea is that as you are very well aware the ground line plays 2 roles. 1 it is the return line for data and 2 it completes the circuit for power. By doubling it up it essentially becomes a 15 awg wire allowing for data to return cleanly.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Yeah. I didn't mention in the video, but saw it during the teat, the voltage actually increased slightly when I connected another ground with power injection. It was minor so I didn't feel it was relevant, but I may have to rethink that one.

[@monroehillfarm7423]

Thanks for the info, but have you tried a better power supply? Not sure what your using, but looks like a Chinese made power supply.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

HAHA! Yes, the power supply on the bench is a cheap supply, but it puts out 12V just fine. The problem was the pixels were defective. See kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJLIc4yLndx_g9U

[@fatheenkhan6526]

sir thank you so much for your videos..i am stuck with my project! can you please help me solve it? PLEASE RESPOND THANK YOU

[@CanispaterChristmas]

What is your project?

[@fatheenkhan6526]

Canispater Christmas aka Jeff Sir I have ws2811 Argb Strip 60led/m and it’s divided into two, 1.5meter each strip length. The power supply what I’m using 6amps 12volt. And the controller is Sp105e Magic Controller! NOW my question is how can I control both the led strip with one controller when one is connected directly to the controller and the other one is 5meters away from the Controller.. I AM FACING COLOUR GLITCH AND FLICKERING PROBLEM.. PLEASE RESPOND! FOR BETTER COMMUNICATION DO YOU HAVE ANY OTHER PLATFORM WHERE WE CAN COMMUNICATE?? PLEASE PLEASE HELP SIR 😭😭😭😭

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Maybe a 2nd SP105? At 5m apart, you will need some sort of signal amplifier for the data since pixel-to-pixel signal is designed for mm. You can try a single strand of Ethernet cable for the data line, but not sure that will work.

[@webbdavis5994]

Happy holidays sir. I’m a big Christmas light guy. I’ve got about 15,000 led amd incandescent bulbs . I’ve been trying to figure out what y’all people have been using to make these Crazy lights shows . Thank you for your videos . It’s to late this year but I can save for next year .

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Welcome to the channel! Be sure to go through my beginner playlist if you haven't already. Pretty much covers everything you need to know to get started.

[@trapp88]

Thanks for the video Jeff. Even though distance isn't something I worry about, your tests are most informative. Some of the research I have done speaks of 15 ft between controller and first pixel for data. Dumb pixels.. (I don't think they were talking 'bout me) added to boost the signal to the first "smart" pixel. Any thought on using wifi for data and just running power all over the yard? Big Tesla Coil in the middle of the yard....NOW we're talking. Tim the Tool Guy would love it. My wife has migraines fairly often so I usually know my limit on "Have you gone too far!!"

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Yes! More POWER! I believe the counseling is that WiFi from Pi to controller has too much latency to maintain accurate timing and the amount of data will become a problem vs using copper. However, people are using ESPixelSticks all over the place with success, but I have no experience with them. Now syncing multiple Pis is done easily over WiFi because the amount of data is very small and allows for misses. I believe Jim Nealand? has several he runs that way. Ethernet limit is 100m (328ft) so a skinny data cable to a controller is easily done unless you have a really big yard. I'm not sure a dumb pixel will work, but null pixels can. Now, the signal out of a controller will be "higher" than a pixel because pixel-to-pixel distances are relatively short. I'm kinda all over the place here. Have I confused you enough? :)

[@trapp88]

I meant null pixel, but dumb fit and sounded pretty good at the time. My runs are fairly short.

[@pyzze]

Thanks now i only whonder .... 5v ?!? is it a BIG dif or same same.... :)

[@CanispaterChristmas]

I don't have enough 5V strings to test, but I'd suspect more problems as the overhead is much less. Although, I think most folks running 5V are use to injecting power anyway so maybe not really that big of a difference.

[@trapp88]

My best to your wife, and we hope her recovery is smooth with minimal bumps in the road.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

🙏

[@andersadara9334]

This goes to show: Less connections is better! It's actually quite shocking to see how big the voltage drop is, caused by those pigtails. Would it be a nice test to see how much the voltage drop is on the other end of a pigtail? Let's say... 12 volt in one end, 10.8 volt out the other? I mean, not that it really matters, most people use power injection anyway. But still. For fun and giggles. I was wondering on the 50 feet cable at what brightness level that last test would have come up working fine again. By the looks of it, around 60-70% would have solved the flickering. So you could even extend way beyond 50 feet (direct cable) if you run your display at 30%, which is quite a decent brightness level anyway. As you rightfully mentioned, it depends on so many factors... Ambient temperature. AWG of the wire... Input voltage... Type of pixels... Type of controller... None the less, thank you for providing the Xmas display with such valuable insights, the time and effort you put in to create all of this for us.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

I haven't noticed a huge drop across a pigtail, but I'm sure there is some so balancing number of connections to ease of setup/teardown is needed. I tend to not worry about it until I encounter a problem and you're right, power injection takes care of some of that too. :)

[@robertbates2747]

Good Stuff.....Just saved me a ton of money and hardship, as I thought I would have to put in much more controllers and power supplies due to the distance between controller and props, as I read a couple of place that you couldn't go more than 15 feet !.......Thanks Again !

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks! I think roughly 30-feet is about as far as you can go with normal pigtails. I have another video about combining Ethernet cable for data with power cable for longer distances. It works well. Then an F48 lets you put the board close to props which is nice if things are distributed around with a lot of distance in between, but it's a more expensive option. Glad it helped!

[@robertbates2747]

@@CanispaterChristmas when you get beyond 30 feet, is it the lack of data or the lack of power that causes the flickering. As if it is the data, would an F-Amp resolve that problem ?

[@robertbates2747]

Clyde from Pixel Pro suggested more going along the lines of 2 - F16V3's & expansion boards & differential controllers to run my show, than the F48, due to distances.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Haha. "It depends." Probably the voltage drop or a combination of both.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Yeah, a differential receiver is what I meant by the F48 (it's all DRs). Yeah, that works well too.

[@devinhedge]

I know this has been up for over two years. I thought it might help folks to add in this calculator: www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/voltage-drop-calculator.html DC voltage naturally drops over a distance. (The formula is on the same page if you scroll down.) So I’m thinking of small injection voltage boxes is likely what a lot of folks will need for driving the pixels, and then f-amps every 15-20 feet to keep the data signal high enough to drive the signal and still have the pixel to pixel voltage drop in the string. You also have to take into account the number of pixels per string and figure out where to splice an f-amp and power injection.

[@devinhedge]

Adding more information as this is important: If you want to use CAT5e for power ONLY, you can safely pull 100W and 3.84A at 12V for 100ft. You have to use all four pairs wired a certain way. This is applying the Power over Ethernet (PoE) standards and ratings. Don’t burn your house down, though. That’s the upper limit. That should work pretty well for power injections. And a link for reference: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Thanks! The data is re-generated by each pixel so as long as there is enough power and the pixel-to-pixel distance is short enough, no F-Amps needed. You really only need F-Amps if chaining props more than about 10-feet-ish apart. YMMV. And I think the pixels in that video were defective. 😂 I tend to judge the power needs by how the pixels look because I tend to be able to go further than the numbers say I should or I'm just not as picky about it one or the other. Cool site tho.

[@RHovis]

Another great video idea is how a where to power inject.

[@CanispaterChristmas]

Haha. I actually have one already. The pixels will tell you when they aren't getting enough power, then pull out your voltmeter. :) Although not 100% because flickers can also be caused by bad grounds too, but strange colors are usually a good indicator of insufficient power.

[@pyzze]

ps hope wife is better

[@CanispaterChristmas]

🙏