Canon EOS 3 35mm film camera

[@sliob]

Thank you for this. I find it very useful. Well done!

[@raymondkilminster2194]

many thanks for this video . thats given me a little help with the camera controls .

[@Bonsees]

Thanks for this! I just got mine and was looking for resources online on how to make the most of it :)

[@clarenceevans4001]

Thank you i found one at the goodwill in excellent condition

[@hybryd83]

You're welcome!

[@bychristiandiaz]

Thank you so much for this video, helps out a lot!

[@reigneduardo6732]

instablaster.

[@Pvnxin]

What type of batteries did you purchase for this camera? I just got mine but I got the wrong batteries for it

[@hybryd83]

The 2CR5 battery is required for this camera. When I've shot this video I used the Canon PB-E2 power booster (battery grip) which holds 8 regular or rechargeable AA batteries.

[@Pvnxin]

hybryd83 thank you!!!

[@Hectorrbazaldua]

This might be a stupid question but I don’t really know much about film cameras. Can you change the iso from the camera even if you put a portra 400 or any other film? Or if you put a portra 400 you have to keep it at 400 in the camera the whole time?

[@hybryd83]

In short: yes you can. But you have to understand it's different to digital because to push (raising the ISO) or pull (lowering the ISO) a roll of film you have to be consistent for the entire roll. If we break it down the push means you will underexpose that roll one or two or whatever stops you want. And during the developing the development times will be extended. The pull is the exact opposite, you'll overexpose that roll, and develop for shortened times. For B&W negatives it's fairly straightforward, you can find a lot of information on the internet ( digitaltruth.com is a very reliable site). For C-41 negatives (like Portra) and E-6 the slides it is a little bit different. At box speed every C-41 rolls have the same development times regardless of brand and sensitivity. This is why a lot of c-41 rolls can be processed at the same time with automated machines. But the same rule applies here as well, if the development time is extended you can achieve good results with constantly underexposed roll. I strongly recommend find a lab who offers push/pull development (most of them will) and tell them how did you shot your film, and what would you like to achieve.

[@belaboured]

It will automatically read the ISO, but then you can change the setting manually.

[@PaulRentz]

@@belaboured Exactly- I would always shoot Fuji 400 at 320- and similar adjustments for color negative film. Why? Almost all color print film had a single under but two over exposure latitude range- in other words, the manufacturer's stated range for exposures that will produce acceptable results. So you were shooting off center of the 'bullseye' of the best exposure so I'd 'reset' the aim to the middle of the target.