Canon R5 - Astrophotography test | best camera ever?

[@jasperbuitenhuis6771]

Really great video! Love everything about it! Would love to see more videos from you. Really liked the macro stacking video also i had no idea it was even a possibility! Was already saving up for a R5 ore R6 but after seeing that video i got even more excited. I really really appreciate the dark frame comparing in the video you are the first to bring this up about the R5, im waiting now for someone to do it on the R6. If you know anyone please let me know. I really want the r5 to be able to crop but for my nightsky photography i got the feeling the R6 was the way to go just buy watching other low light comparisons, but liw light and night skys are 2 different subjects if you ask me. Ones again great video very informative and easy to watch and had nice in depth information lot of people are not talking about (dark frame banding) Love to see what else the R5 can do i had no idea of. Jasper 👍

[@thejpegexperience7488]

WOW! Thank you for all of that Jasper! Im glad you liked the video and found it informative. I find the information on Dark frame to be something that gets overlooked and im happy that you found it as interesting as i do. Thanks again for watching and stay tuned for more!

[@peterebel7899]

You have to look into the menu system when having a non IS lens on there body and you will find IBIS setting You can set IBIS settings to the * menu as well

[@kristianaltmann7721]

Thanks for doing a proper dark frame for testing. Your buddy messed his one up pretty bad and made me wanna ditch the R5 for astro. I wonder why you don‘t actually focus on a bright star but rely on some „random“ marking on the lens. Either direct or using a focus aid like a Batinov or Scheiner mask. Cost nothing and the results are really consistent since you actually focussed on your subject.

[@JoseLausuch]

I have also noticed that the 15-35 RF lens does not have any coma or astigmatism on the corners at its maximum aperture f/2.8! Impressive lens!

[@thespa64]

It's crazy how little noise you get at those super high iso's. That last image looked pretty redeemable all the way up to 25600. Great comparison.

[@FPSCHANNELSWEDEN]

A really killer “feature” is that the EVF has become SO much brighter and better - now I actually can compose my whole frame with the help of the viewfinder in almost pitch darkness saving tons of time. My Ra is def for sale since I don’t do deep space photography! :)

[@thejpegexperience7488]

I totally agree with you Patrik! The Brighter EVF makes finding MW composures way easier. Thanks for watching!

[@subliminus]

Great video Trevor! I've been waiting for a review like this since the R5 came out. I'm planning to purchase one soon, and this review has pretty much put all my concerns to rest.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you Subliminus! Glad the video was helpful and i hope you get your R5 soon. Thanks again!

[@OldVideoPutz]

There is a menu option to disable the IBIS with a lens that does not have a switch on the barrel. However, this option only appears when you have such a lens attached. It disappears from the menus when a lens with the switch is mounted. On a similar note, you cannot use the IBIS and the lens stabilization independent of each other. If the lens has it you have to use them both. I had to contact Canon support to get this straight.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you very much!

[@bruceleonard3096]

Thank you for this video! Great job 👏 I’m got my R5 s few weeks ago and am coming from a Mark IV so your comparisons are perfect for me and answer so many of the questions I have had. I used the R5 for the perseids meteor shower recently at 12,800 and it worked great. Keep up the excellent work, it’s appreciated.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you Bruce! Congratulations on the R5. I've been very happy upgrading from the R to the R5 and the Mark IV and the R are almost the same. Im sure you will enjoy the R5 as much as I have. 👍

[@bruceleonard3096]

The JPEG Experience So one more question, how do you think the R5 will compare with the R6? I think your test methodology is correct. So with the lower pixel count but larger pixels will the higher ISO be better and the lower pixel count allow for slower shutter speeds without star trails.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

@@bruceleonard3096 Hey Bruce, I could only speculate on a comparison between the R5 and R6. Personally i have little/no interest in the R6. It may prove to have an edge on nightscapes/MW images but lost me at the 20MP sensor. Using the NPF Rule for Stars @15mm focal length the R5 should be at 14.5Secs and the R6 would have 18.57 seconds. Thats the biggest advantage i can think of. I do alot of different types of photography with an emphasis on Landscapes. I am looking for an all around workhorse and The R6 doesnt peak my interest for what im looking for in a camera body. Out of my own curiousity, you own the R5 already. What is it that interests you in the R6?

[@bruceleonard3096]

The JPEG Experience I’m in the same boat. I do mostly landscape, birds and Astro. The R5 seems to do all spectacularly. I also like to do timelapse and was thinking that it might be nice to have less massive files and perhaps for Astro timelapse. I like having two cameras and am so sold on the mirrorless R5 I was wondering about the R6 in addition for those other purposes. It’s probably over the top but I know it’s only 20mp but it’s the sensor out of the 5D IV. with native ISO up to 102,000. Just wondering, I haven’t seen a comparison yet.

[@andreasbrand3191]

sadly the R5 is still way worse noise wise than most of the sony chips (which nikon also uses). Especially for long-time exposures, the quite high sensor temperature introduced even more noise (thermally induced, so drastically increasing the dark current of the sensor which then limits the contrast in dark areas). That's why the R5 is good for shorter exposures but falls drastically behind for long time exposures. I have an R5 and I compared it to a significantly older Sony A7Riii from work... it's not even a contest. I'm a Canon guy with many lenses. I'm not likely to switch, it's just cost prohibitive, but I won't tell myself, that it's anywhere near as good as the Sony sensors. Too bad!

[@MichaelGehrisch]

Yupp I have both the R5 and A7RIII, the Sony is far superior for astro.

[@steinr98]

Great video- I have shot the Milky Way with my old 7D MKII so am already to try the R 5. The infinity line is not aways the sharpest spot- eact lens must be focused by itself!! This is a fact- I then locked down my focusing ring with Gaffers tape. I took a photo shot which at the time only had a modeling light on- no flash or hot light, using 128,00 ISO just for fun- I then used DE-Noise from Topaz and could not believe how clear the model's skin came out- Blew my mind!!! No noise at all! Enjoyed your video and gave me a start in settings with the nR 5.

[@rvboondocker2559]

Thanks! My fears were exactly the same as yours. The first two minutes could have been me talking. I wasn’t completely satisfied with the 5 DS R.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thanks for watching and glad you could relate! 👍

[@gatotherliyanto2093]

Thanks for very good R5 review ... Would like to see more your videos on astrophotography, including on how you do stars tracking ... Greeting from Jakarta Indonesia

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Greetings Gatot from Jakarta! Thank you for watching and I'm glad you liked the video. I appreciate your suggestion and for sure will make more astro videos and ill consider making a star tracker video too. Stay tuned bud! Thanks 🙏

[@stuartsmith945]

Have you considered focusing optically using the magnifier in the viewfinder. I was out last night and had no trouble focusing stars down to tiny sharp dots.

[@shupingyin8082]

That’s awesome timelapse love the music too

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thanks bud! Glad you liked it! 👍🏻

[@fadelalshobaki5728]

i would like final image edited from R5

[@kennethlui2268]

If the lens has no IS, there is an option in the menu where you can choose to turn on or off the IBIS. But if the lens has IS, you turn off the IS on the lens, then IBIS will be turned off automatically. Great video and cool milky way shots.. Another youtuber said he saw some hot pixels in the dark frame test that he did. I guess you didn't see any hot pixel. By the way, what app was it that you used to calculate the exposure time for the milky way shots? Photopill? The NPF rule includes, aperture, focal length, and pixel pitch but not ISO. So, how do you know what ISO to be used? Trial & error?

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Hey Kenneth! Thanks for the feed back. I figured out afterwards about the hidden option in the menu when a lens with no IS is attached. I have not had any issues with hot pixels so far. Yes, i Used photopils to calculate the NPF Rule. My ISO changes pretty much on a trial and error basis. Its different on every shoot based off bortle scale of the location, light pollution in frame, and moon phase. Generally I use anywhere from 4k to 8k ISO but sometimes push it beyond that.

[@judithboulden434]

Very informative and answered many questions. I would love to see a similar review or comment regarding the R6.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you Judith. Glad you liked it. It would be interesting to see a similar comparison to the R6 but TBH im not interested in the R6 and I dont have easy access to one. If that changes maybe I'll give it a go. Thanks again for watching. 👍🏻

[@judithboulden434]

The JPEG Experience Trevor, I understand you may not have access but would value your opinion then, just on the stats, of how the same sensor but with 20 MP would perform for astrophotography. I did the test you described and there is little to no banding.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

@@judithboulden434 If i were to speculate on the R6 from what I've seen of it and with my experience with the R5. my expectations for the R6 specifically for Astrophotography would be very high. You said the dark frame was excellent, ISO performance appears excellent, access to RF Glass is excellent, and a 20 MP sensor allows longer shutter times without star trails. For example, Using the NPF Rule at 15mm focal length the R5 maximum shutter is 14.56sec while the R6 would be able to have a shutter speed of 18.57 for the same shot. A 4 sec extension of shutter speed would be significant. Hope that helps. Lemme know if you have any other questions 🤙

[@crispyinasia61]

A really timely video for me as I’m on the cusp of buying the R5. My love is landscape photography, but astrophotography Is what tickles my fancy but I still rank myself as a beginner in that regard. In addition to the R5 I have been considering the Samyang (Rokinon) 14mm for night sky shots, but wondering do you use the auto focus version or the fully manual one? Thanks again this has been very useful, and I must add that having the tutorial on dark frames gives me some clarity at last👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😁

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thanks for watching Andrew! I'm glad you found the video informative! I use the manual version of the Robinson 14mm 2.8 but I have a friend that has the R5 and uses the AF version. We did a comparison between both a couple weeks back and they appear to be about the same in image quality. The AF version does have a AE chip and there is some editing of the distortion in camera that the manual version doesn't. The only drawback to the AF version I found was that it doesn't have a focus guide on the lens itself and the R5 doesn't bring up the digital version on the LCD like it does on the RF 15-35 I showed in the video. That means the way to find focus on Infinity is to do a 15X digital zoom and find it that way. Also the R5 does have a manual focus guide that turns objects in focus Red on the LCD and it does do that on the stars. Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions.

[@rptaraporevala]

Wow! Lovely! So, I am going for an Astro night out on the 21st and will be taking my R5. I will be taking my 24-105 F4 for Milty way and general shots, my 100-400L (For moon and planet shots) and my 40mm pancake for Milky Way shots. I plan to stack images and so will be using Sequator to do the final stacking. You did not mention whether you used the mechanical or the electronic shutter. I plan to use the electronic shutter to minimize camera shake. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, all your shots seemed to be single shot images, which is what one would expect if you were doing a compare. However4, did you end up stacking images from that trip? Just curious. I do not own a motorized mount so the only way to get more light in is to stack the images...

[@rogerarrysheldon8394]

Turn on focus peaking and the focus guide (directional) the r5 has manual focus features you would find really only in cinema cams

[@djack4125]

There is a menu option to turn off IBIS if the lens does not have stabilization. You must put the non-IS lens on the camera and only then does the menu option to turn off IBIS appears in the menu.

[@eduardofarinha5194]

Hi, I found your video and iinformation approach very interesting and helpfull, that is way I would like to ask your opinion according with your much more experience than mine. I need to replace my camera 7D for another one (irreparable. Humidity problems caused the damage of the eletronic circuit). I am not a professional and I don't know if the next one will be the last one, so, I would like, regardeless the price, to choose a camera that for the photos I make, I would not regret for buying it, which happened with the 7D (to much noise, in my opinion). And because I appreciated very much your exceptional "Canon R5 vs Canon R6, which one is better ?", I think your opinion will be of a great importance, in my decison. So, can you tell me which one of R5 and R6, will be more suitable for landscape photography in general, and astrophotography (milky way,....) and landscapes photos in low light scenarios in particular ? Thank you very much My best regards, EF

[@RogerZoul]

There is supposed to be a menu that pops up to allow you to turn off IBIS when using a MF lens. Page 251 in the R5 Advanced User Guide. Shoot 7 menu. Set to OFF when using an MF lens. They option won't appear when you have a IS lens attached, strangely.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you very much Anthony! I'll look into that.

[@sirrichard77]

Great video and testing. Just what I wanted to know..

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you Richard. Glad it was helpful for you!

[@SteveMiddeldorp]

Thanks for this comparison. The R5 looks better, but at the same time I'm pleasantly surprised by the performance of the R. It's much better then I expected. Im still deciding whether I think the price differences between the R, R6 and R5 aren't too big, considering the improvements in high iso results. IBIS would be nice to have..

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thanks Steve, I'm very happy with both the R as my 2nd body and R5 as my primary. I personally think the perks of the R5 over the R6 for an extra 1k is with it. While I've heard the R may be available aftermarket around 1K which would be steal. I'd be curious what you end up picking up. 👍

[@SteveMiddeldorp]

@@thejpegexperience7488 Thanks! I live in the Netherlands, I can get the R for about 1500 eur (1761 usd) secondhand at the store (with one year warranty), vs the R5 for literally 3 times that.. Although I can afford it, the price difference is huge. I'll keep you updated..

[@SteveMiddeldorp]

@@thejpegexperience7488 oh, and if you calculate the per click price, on Dutch prices, the R5 is actually slightly cheaper than the R6, due to the R6 being rated for 300k clicks vs R5's 500k clicks. :p

[@thejpegexperience7488]

@@SteveMiddeldorp thats an unusual way to calculate value but I like it. Also i would argue the resale for the R5 will be better than the r6 in the next few years. I cant imagine 20MP and 4k will age as well as 45mp and 8k even with its limitations.

[@djack41]

@@SteveMiddeldorp The rating is only for the mechanical shutter. Shoot electronic shutter. Soon, mechanical shutters will be extinct when global sensor readouts become the norm.

[@siegfriednoet]

Yes You can make the manual focus help bigger on the screen Yes You can switch off IBIS in the menu when using a lens without IS Further very interesting comparison and where the R5 is absolutely the overall winner, looks also that the R5 picks up more true magenta colors from the Milky Way

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thanks for watching Siegfried. You say its possible to increase the size of the MF Help bar on screen. I have not been able to find any option to do that. Do you know what it is called or where to find it? Thank you!

[@siegfriednoet]

@@thejpegexperience7488 In the Menu, AF tab, second page, Focus guide on Normally than you should see the AF guide bigger in the center of the frame

[@thejpegexperience7488]

@@siegfriednoet thanks for the reply Siegfried. The suggestion you mentioned is the same that I already had setup but thank you for reaching out and making the suggestion! 🙏

[@siegfriednoet]

@@thejpegexperience7488 that's strange, on my vf and flip out screen the AF guide is in the center of the frame and good visible. Did you do some setting to what to see of the settings maybe

[@thejpegexperience7488]

@@siegfriednoet your information has me on a quest. I've scoured the menu,, manual,, and internet. That bar im trying to get larger on the screen is called focus distance display. I haven't found anything on how to make it larger. There is a note in the manual that says "for certain RF lenses, magnification is also displayed" I've checked on my RF 24-105 and RF 15-35 and didn't see anything. What lense are you using when that bar is larger and in the middle of the screen?

[@marktizard7273]

brilliant , still waiting for delivery of my R5

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you Mark. When did you order it and when do you expect it to show up? I saw reports of Adorama having the rest of their waiting list done by the end of October.

[@marktizard7273]

The JPEG Experience ordered it about 7weeks ago from wex UK, said they are expecting an order coming in in the next two weeks🤞🤞🤞

[@calebwhite681]

I'd like to see these tested on a star tracker for like 2 minutes. it's crazy once you start using a tracker. i used to shoot with A7S/a6300 and think that I wanted an A7III or A7 IV but I'm afraid to because my current sony's are....surprisingly bad at retaining detail in the milky way. I have a canon 6D (2012 model camera) and it way outperforms in bulb mode. I just need to know if canon mirrorless are as good or better. EDIT: so i just tested the EOS R (not R6 or R5) but at least on that body can say it's very good in bulb mode for astrophotography. surprisingly though, it's not that much better than the 6D, just a bit more fine detail because of the higher resolution. that's good though, since it's not a crazy amount more of noise. Going to be peeking at the raw files tonight though to compare. shot with 6D, A7R II, A7S, EOS R, and Z6

[@hotlens7610]

Great vid! My R5 has some crazy banding, got to share it with you sometime soon.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you! Are you serious? My R5 is as clean as a whistle!

[@hotlens7610]

@@thejpegexperience7488 mines a very dirty whistle lol

[@shreekantsomany3467]

Hi, I too bought the R5, & I'am loving it. I will be trying it out for milky way in 3 weeks wit the Rokinon 14mm. To take a time lapse what should be the interval between frames.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thanks for watching and Congratulations on getting the r5. I would recommend the R5 with the 14mm @f2.8. You'll want your shutter no longer than 15secs and I would have the intervel at 18 secs. hope that helps and good luck! Let me know how it works out for you.

[@markpenberthy619]

Thank you for the very informative video, I have a question about theR5 and I am hopeful you might be able to help. Night shooting in Manual and focusing manually using the rear screen . When I zoom in on a star to set the focus the screen goes to the correct brightness while I am dragging the stare to the middle of the screen ready for focusing, but by the time I move my hand from the screen to the focus ring the screen goes darker not off just very dark. Is there a way that I can control how long the screen stays bright for after I have touched the screen. In essence can I control how long exposure simulation is displayed for ?. THX

[@stevenrobinsonpictures]

Can you show the liveview feed without moon In dark starlight. Both full screen then zoomed in on stars. Nikon are terrible for the feed being barely usable so I am interested in this info. Also show how far you can zoom in. With the 15 to 35 why didn't you just zoom in? BTW infinity focus marks are not reliable and infinity changes as lens elements are effected by temps

[@san-dp7fu]

Thank you for uploading movie!🥰

[@thejpegexperience7488]

You're welcome! Thank you for watching! 👍

[@existircuantico7141]

Hello, so, almost one year later... do you recomend the Eos R5 nowadays???

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Absolutely! The R5 has exceeded my expectations and it's the workhorse of a camera I was waiting for. Its not 100% perfect there are a few things I would like updated but that's just me being picky and there will always be something small to nitpick. It's a beast and have 0 regrets picking it up.

[@ptheglev]

Great video, guys. Wish I had a pitch black national-park in my backyard! Maybe off-topic, but could you tell me, what camera-strap you use? Thanx!

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thanks for watching! I use the peak design slide camera strap. It's the first accessory I get for all my cameras. It's well worth the price. It comes in 2 sizes depending on your personal preference and camera size. There is a link to my Amazon storefront below where i have it listed. Thanks again for watching!

[@ptheglev]

@@thejpegexperience7488 excellent. Thanks for answering. Appreciated

[@galiciajohnalexisc.6622]

Im planning to buy this camera but still afraid on the heating issues😢

[@cartmanbruh23]

cool video.. thnx for sharing. I wonder how R5 compares to Sony when it comes to astrophotography..

[@rob-cowell]

I have the Rf 15-35 2.8 and an R5 and I've found that, amazingly, autofocus works on stars. Bright one admittedly, but it works! Have you tried that? It's unbelievable.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Yes! I was super impressed with that myself. Kind of a side note along those same lines it will also focus on a Lazer pointer way off in the distance too. I've used that trick when setting up a timelapse at infinity when the clouds were covering the stars and I was using my friends samyang 14mm 2.8. The R5 restricts some focus features for 3rd party glass.

[@07wrxtr1]

I'll have to give that a try; IN all honesty - I have been a big disappointed in the combo given the cost... $6000 vs. 90d + Tokina F2 for $1400... Yes, apples/oranges, but, I just don't see the more expensive R5 combo as 4x "better".

[@robertleeimages]

@@07wrxtr1 I have a Tokina 14-20mm f2 on my 200d and looking at upgrading to the 90d, but see so much about it being bad for low light because although it has more mp they're smaller to fit the same sensor. So thinking about just going to a 5dmk4 seen as the Tokina is a full frame lens, then just have to upgrade my sigma 30mm f1.4 which is only a crop sensor lens. I know 1 thing is I'm not going to R series any time soon, not with the lenses i have which the R cameras will just default to crop via the adapter

[@07wrxtr1]

@@robertleeimages Yeah def a step up to the larger sensor size will help a ton for low light work!!

[@robertleeimages]

@@07wrxtr1 to the 90d, or 5dmk4 or either? How well does your 90d go with the Tokina? Because primarily my main photography is nightscapes with my 14-20mm f2 Tokina, but i do a bit of night street photography with the sigma f1.4 30mm but for that the little 200d is just too noisy once up around 1600+ where I can't just put images through sequator like for sky images at 6400 to reduce noise. If 90d handles those conditions, I'd be more inclined to just stay with crop than go for a 5d where every lens except for the Tokina has to be replaced

[@mordavian]

I have first version of this rokinon. Samyang 14mm umc version. I attached lens to camera and took some sample photos but I got blurry photos. I set focus to almost infinity in the lens and did not do anything in the camera screen. After seeing your video, i need to adjust to infinity on the screen too. Right?

[@thejpegexperience7488]

If you have a manual focusing lens use the lens ring to find focus.

[@mordavian]

@@thejpegexperience7488 i am using lens ring and doing focus peaking but the regions marked as focused is not sharp in the final photo.

[@steinr98]

I have the Samyang- I focused during daylight using a telescope building on a mountain about 10 miles away. Works perfect. I then used Gaffers tape and locked down the focusing ring. My star shots are sharp! The Infinity Line is not always accurate,so one should "Always" do their own focusing!!! This is an absolute fact!!

[@mordavian]

@@steinr98 I tried lens on a mirrorless cam. Even i made a perfect focus by focus peaking, results were out of focus. This lens has an infinity focus problem but on a mirrorless it is impossible take an out of focus photo by using focus peaking. I tried in several F falues and got the same result. I have used the same lens on 5d mark 2 years ago and the photos were really sharp.

[@JennaCee]

Nice video - well presented

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you Jenna! I appreciate that. 🙏

[@3xistenc3]

THE JPEG!!!!! Great intro! Is that your footage? How do you timelapse astro??

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you! Yeah that's all my footage. In a nutshell, 1 shot every 15-20 secs for 3-6 hrs then turned into a video. It's milkyway season again so I'll probably make a video soon on my full process. Stay tuned 👍🏻

[@3xistenc3]

@@thejpegexperience7488 thank you, subbed!

[@thejpegexperience7488]

@@3xistenc3 Thank you !

[@LJIan996]

How is the image quality between these 2 lenses, especially coma and corner sharpness. Also have you tried the samyang 14mm f2.4?

[@PavelChepelev]

"that way all stars are consistent" i dont understand this part)

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thanks for watching. I believe you're referring to @9:13 when I say "so all shots are consistent" I'm referencing setting the white balance to 4000k because if it's set to auto white balance the WB will change throughout the photoshoot. Not that it's a big problem if I didn't it just adds another step if LR to match WB between shots. Hope that answers your question. Let me know if you were referring to something else. Thanks again for watching.

[@anglodutch8321]

Thanks you for this information. You might consider making a faster edit of this material, as its content, useful as it is, doesn't really justify a length of 26 minutes. Good luck.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you Anglo. In the attempt to be as thorough as possible it did end up being longer than originally intended. I appreciate the suggestion. 👍

[@jasperbuitenhuis6771]

Anglo Dutch You can always watch the content in 1.25 1.5 1.75 ore 2x speed.

[@rvboondocker2559]

Rokinon isn’t Canon so it makes sense that Canon doesn’t care about internal ibis interface using Rokinon.

[@thejpegexperience7488]

I made a quick follow up video regarding the IBIS problem. There is a hidden option in the menu. The option is missing if you're using a lens with IS.

[@appalachianturf814]

How do you do 9 or 10 second exposures?

[@07wrxtr1]

I came here for the backround music....

[@oneonlyxram]

Interesting video, there are many reviews of the R5 talking about the large sensor not being great for low light, but your photos seem to prove otherwise. I am looking at this camera and the a7siii as I do a ton of videos but find myself looking up and wanting to shoot the stars (In AZ so I have a similar situation). Certainly gives me more to think about, I have the R5 coming next week to test out for a week so we'll see how things go!

[@calebwhite681]

in my opinion, get the R5 IF you want to get serious into astro. because you should be using a star tracker if you get deep into the hobby, and the R5's smaller pixels won't be as big of an issue as the A7S III 12MP. just turn ISO to 800 and shoot for 2 minutes on a tracker and I suspect the R5 will do amazing. in my experience sony cameras are bad in bulb mode for astro for more than just star eater. they don't retain nebula detail very well. I prefer my 6D 1st gen over my A7R II ON A TRACKER! that's insane, but there's some things that can't be quantified on DXOMark. I'm curious how your testing went. I want the R5 for it's video capability, 8K timelapse (since R6 MP too low for that), and of course, canon's history of handling astrophotography well.

[@bmwcar335]

Hi, I live in Orange county and like to know if like to meet for Astro photography. I just got my R5 today. Let me know.

[@mikemeedia]

But..did you try shooting raw? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@thejpegexperience7488]

.cr3 all day every day! 👍

[@zekirami]

Great vedio .. that camera 📷 r5 I want to buy but when I look to youtube channel most of them want to fuck canon. I do have m6 mark2 and really good camera 📷 now I want full fame .. so is it over heat I use for photography?

[@thejpegexperience7488]

Thank you Zeki. I am very happy with the camera and would buy it again. The "overheating issue" only apply to 8k, 4k 120, and 4k HD recordings modes. There is no issue with photography at all. Photography does reduce the overheating timer for the modes I mentioned.

[@MrDamburger]

Looks no better than a7iii!

[@jmp622]

Horrible

[@robertwhite1416]

If you're looking to image through Amateur Telescopes see this precision Canon RF Mount 2" UltraWide Low Profile Prime Focus Telescope Adapter: www.telescopeadapters.com/2-prime-focus-adapters/600-canon-eos-r-2-ultrawide-prime-focus-telescope-adapter-low-profile.html

[@markpenberthy619]

Thank you for the very informative video, I have a question about theR5 and I am hopeful you might be able to help. Night shooting in Manual and focusing manually using the rear screen . When I zoom in on a star to set the focus the screen goes to the correct brightness while I am dragging the stare to the middle of the screen ready for focusing, but by the time I move my hand from the screen to the focus ring the screen goes darker not off just very dark. Is there a way that I can control how long the screen stays bright for after I have touched the screen. In essence can I control how long exposure simulation is displayed for ?. THX