Car Battery Load Test With Multimeter | EASY DIY

[@alangardiner872]

Hi there, I stumbled upon your video and felt driven to comment. What a refreshing change! There is no stupid, unrelated music and a fellow Human who can speak and construct sentences without constant umm, er, eh um...and didn't address us as Bro!!! clear, easy and informative instructions very well presented. I wish you good luck in your channel growing. Thank you.. Alan.

[@ChopperCindy]

And no captions 😊

[@fjonesjones2]

Totally agree mate... great video with no distractions or trying to understand what the heck the commentator is trying to say... just clear and concise.... no 10 min ramble about their life story or how qualified they are.... We can see if you don't know what you're talking about.... Great video, will watch more, thank you...🥳🥳🥳

[@ChromeLuxx]

Absolutely

[@Golfr2020]

Or. Hey! What up Guys! 😅😅 Younger generation bullshit talk

[@alangardiner872]

@ like yea Bro! 🤷‍♂️😘😂😂😂😂

[@DavidJackson-zc4eq]

Today, after 50 years of amateur spannering on cars, I learned this 😊 thank you

[@bearpuf]

A really nice video. You have a a very fine easy to understand verbal delivery that makes using a multimeter easy for a novice to find out if the battery is good or bad through a load test. Thanks. Good teachers like yourself are worth their weight in gold.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi @bearpuf Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed the vid and it is helping you. 👍 Cheers, Phil

[@jkgoogle5185]

Here's the truth, You can't 'load test' a battery with a multimeter..

[@George.Andrews.]

​@@jkgoogle5185. But you can use one to gain information about the state of your battery.

[@chocolate_squiggle]

Great demo, I've used this method myself, glad to see someone else validate the idea. I'd just caution your viewers to definitely repeat the measurement multiple times. I once connected two different meters with min/max functions at the same time and got two very different minimum values after starting the car. The more expensive meter showed a lower (more accurate) voltage, while the cheaper one showed almost 2 volts higher if I remember right. I guess the cheaper meter took fewer readings (at a slower rate), and the battery must have dipped to its lowest point in between the points where the readings were taken. Whereas the more expensive meter probably takes more/faster readings which allowed it to be more accurate. This is probably less of an issue if your car cranks over for several seconds. But if your car starts fairly quickly then I'd be cautious of the reading and repeat it a few times. I'm sure your Fluke meter reads at a decent frequency.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks for sharing your experience and the extra info. Never thought about it but yes, I can imagine a high end multimeter will potentially scan and read faster, making the test easier and more relevant! Cheers, Phil

[@riceburner4747]

Well done! What you say is EXACTLY what ppl should do. I worked for a battery manufacturer, so I know. 👍

[@ecpoirier]

I just performed this test on my battery. At rest the battery only shows 10.6V, and when under load, the minimum was only 6.0V, but 14.1V while running. Can I revive my battery by putting it on a trickle charger - or is it time for a new battery?

[@riceburner4747]

@ecpoirier What is the age of the battery. Used to be 5yrs or more u change the battery ( because it makes alternator work harder, hence, u spend even MORE money). But today, if it's 3yrs or more, I would change. And CHECK mfg date on battery & MAKE SURE it's fully charged. Just because it's new, it may have sat on shelf long.👍✊️🇺🇸

[@stevejones8665]

​@@ecpoirier I would definitely get a new Battery instead of waiting to get stranded. Especially with the winter months and cold weather conditions coming soon.

[@ecpoirier]

@stevejones8665 new battery purchased and swapped. All good now. Piece of mind for $180 Costco Canada

[@jkgoogle5185]

You might have worked in a battery factory, but, you have no idea of what you're talking about and either does the guy who done the video..

[@whatworkedforme]

Excellent video - clear and a good pace - this is book marked! You did in a 6 min video what others do over 20 with less of the important data/information.

[@jaygooch1190]

Thank you for not having some stupid music playing. Great video

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks for your comment! Lots of people happy with very low or no music, will try to stick to that for my DIY’s! Cheers, Phil

[@lgude]

Yes, excellent video. Easy to follow exactly. The second load test with the min way down was an eye opener. I've certainly heard exactly that kind of weak battery and had enough experience to know it was probably time to replace it. But now I can know for sure. I've got a Fluke similar to yours.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thank you! Yes, it was an eye opener for me re the second test. I used this info to push a battery supplier into replacing my battery under warranty (although they took a bit of persuading!). Fluke are the best but you pay for it... However, it should last a long time. Thanks for your comment! cheers, Phil

[@Guishan_Lingyou]

Great presentation! I knew both that there are specialized meters to test car batteries and alternators, and I know enough to know that you should be able to do it with a multimeter, but I didn't know what specific readings would indicate a problem.

[@jkgoogle5185]

You don't know enough because you cannot 'load test' a battery with a multimeter..

[@johnrockley9472]

Great content. Years ago I had a diesel Focus and randomly the battery would go flat overnight. I was walking past it one night and the instrument panel was glowing including the glowplugs lights, I opened the bonnet and found them hot! This is what was discharging the battery. It was caused by leakage on the instrument panel pcb, a known problem caused by climatic conditions affecting the lead free solder flux when it ages, that I did not know!

[@surf6009]

Thanks for the video. Batteries are an important part of a car. Keep the terminal clean and have a better life.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Very true! 👍

[@petrusincraian198]

This is a very simple and efficient way the check the car battery. Amazing. Thanks for the info.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks so much! Glad it was helpful!

[@wiretamer5710]

I’ve been using a sulphated battery in my Sprinter Van for the past six months. I did so by fitting a cut off switch to the positive terminal of the battery. I keep the battery isolated whenever I know I won't be driving for more than 10 minutes. This also gives me a bit of extra security on the vehicle. The battery has trouble starting the Van if it is left connected for more than 4 hours. The morning start is the hardest. If I can't get it going, I use an emergency jump starter which is cheaper than a new battery in the morning. What I tend to find however is a couple of start attempts, warms up the battery enough to get the car started. After that, normal use of the Van, and continuing to isolate the battery as much as possible, means I don't have any trouble for the rest of the day. All this on a battery I should have replaced six months ago. Next time I buy a new battery I will continue to isolate it and see how long it lasts. For a tiny bit more trouble than normal battery use, I expect a new battery will last at least five years before I have real difficulty.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi @wiretamer5710 thank for sharing your experience! Sounds like you are managing the issue pretty well. Yes, it would be interesting to see how long a battery lasts if under zero load when not being used. Cheers, Phil

[@nlimchua]

I enjoyed your presentation esp. your accent and enunciation!

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks so much! Glad you liked the video 👍I have a kinda weird hybrid accent due to my dual nationality 😁 cheers, Phil

[@ValuedTeamMember]

I got a real charge from the battery of tests you did. Back 2 Basics never goes out of style. Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd house on the left

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks, glad you liked the vid! Just trying to share some techniques that the average guy at home can do without buying lots of expensive gear. On my way to So.Ca. in November for a holiday, will keep an eye out for your house 😀😂

[@ValuedTeamMember]

@@ReviveMyRide 10-4. Just remember, if you do stop by you'll have to let yourself in the front gate. My ankle bracelet won't reach that far Cheers

[@ReviveMyRide]

@@ValuedTeamMember 😂👍

[@Milkybar3320011]

Cold temperatures will also affect the performance

[@ReviveMyRide]

Yes, that’s true! 👍 It’s why so many batteries fail on the cold winter days when we need them most! 🥶

[@montanadan2524]

100% Montana Dan endorsement. The internet contains a lot of misinformation relating to electronics. That is not the case with this video and I strongly agree with the diagnostic approach and the battery voltages specified for lead acid, high output, cranking batteries. Commenters qualifications: I hold a BSEE (Electronics) and have lifelong experience in the mechanical and electronic/electrical fields. My hobbies include a self contained 1989 IP35 sailboat (600w solar 400 Ah AGM, no invertor) and a 2003 Roadtrek camper van (high output self regulated alternator, Victron FET isolator, lead acid start and deep cycle 100AH house, no inverter).

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks very much @montanadan2524 👍 Glad to have earned your endorsement on the video, thanks for dropping me the comment!! 😎 cheers, Phil

[@Malc2169]

6 * 1.7v = 10.2v, there's your minimum. 6 * 2.35 = 14.1v to 6 * 2.40 = 14.4v while running/charging. That's your numbers. Source - 34 years working in the battery industry.

[@VincentOrosambo]

Do a video mate

[@montanadan2524]

Your cell numbers are good but as we don't know the starter amp draw specifications, his numbers are sufficient for the purpose of the video.

[@ecpoirier]

I just performed this test on my battery. At rest the battery only shows 10.6V, and when under load, the minimum was only 6.0V, but 14.1V while running. Can I revive my battery by putting it on a trickle charger - or is it time for a new battery?

[@Malc2169]

@@ecpoirier At rest, 10.6v says it is fully discharged or there is a dead cell. Put it on a trickle charger, let it fully charge then test it again after 60 minutes. You should see at least 12.8 volts. All that said, if it is more than 3 years old, I'd throw it away and get a new one cos sulphation will be setting in now.

[@I.Live4oldcars.prospecting]

This was very helpful. And easy to understand. Thank you

[@ReviveMyRide]

Cheers! Glad it was helpful! Thanks, Phil

[@I.Live4oldcars.prospecting]

@@ReviveMyRide your welcome

[@AutoClay]

Great video, but no link in the description for the battery drain test... well i cant find it...

[@acooper1037]

Nice vid, I think the voltages are specific to your vehicle/battery, one of my cars has an AGM battery which charges at a different rate over (15V DC), on big (generator) engines the control systems are designed to survive 0 volts on start up, with internal capacitors, not sure if cars would utilise the same principals.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks for sharing the info! A lot of my cars have AGM batteries these days. The load test works pretty well on this type of battery for a normal road car. Usually if the voltage drops below about 9.5v during cranking I have found that standard cars often won’t start. Just to add that I agree, charging voltages are getting more complicated, some modern cars vary the charging rate depending on what they have detected the battery condition to be. Some of the more efficient cars, stop charging the battery and the alternator disconnects on an electric clutch if it is full, apparently saves a couple of mpg. Cheers, Phil

[@andrewlawson3694]

Thanks gives a good starting point for the other checks.

[@jask320]

You should always trust people with Fluke multimeter 😂 The biggest problem with Pb autobatteries, they don't like to stay uncharged. If you don't use your car for long periods or you drive only 10 minutes to work every day, consider buying a cheap battery charger-mainateiner. I am from Canada and I have 4 (four!) plugs sticking out of my car: 1. Block heater 2. Buddy interior heater 3. Battery blanket 4. Battery mainteiner This is crazy, but -40 C is not a joke

[@ReviveMyRide]

Agree, in those temperatures, you’ve got to be an expert in maintaining your vehicle and battery against the cold. 🥶 Sounds like you have got it nailed! 👍😎

[@konstantin-big]

So you can't trust us=electrician who don't have a fluke multimeter??? We have a Bosch multimeter 😂😂

[@bitrhbj56]

thats a huge battery . great video. thx i have the same fluke meter . great tool,

[@BionicRusty]

Another very helpful video. Thank you for posting. 👍

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi @BionicRusty thanks for your comment, glad you liked it 👍😀 Cheers, Phil

[@artmartdc]

Thank heavens for a lucid articulate explanation.

[@motorv8N]

Interesting info - I didn’t know you could check load this way but it makes sense - thank you!

[@steved0603]

Fantastic instructions! Thank you!

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi @steved0603 you're welcome and thanks for your comment 👍😎 Cheers, Phil

[@sollykhan2385]

Thank you for posting this video,,shockingly easy ,,,as it 'Empowered me' to do the test's 🙂

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thank you! I’ve found that It’s a good first test if you’ve started having problems and you suspect your battery may be on its way out 👍 cheers, Phil

[@sollykhan2385]

@@ReviveMyRide 🙂

[@tonytully5027]

Great video. Correct information presented perfectly 👍👍

[@ReviveMyRide]

@tonytully5027 Thanks very much! 😊 Cheers, Phil

[@jkgoogle5185]

You got that wrong.... You cannot load test a battery with a multimeter..

[@TheGlottis]

Great video! short and easy to understand.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! 😎

[@EzequielDelgadoV]

Great video, thank you, regards from Mexico City.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! Also, great to hear from someone in Mexico! 🇲🇽 cheers, Phil

[@billsmith2212]

The AGM you mentioned is 12.75 volts . A wet or flooded ( battery acid ) would be 12.6 volts . The 9.6 volts on cranking assumes ( sometimes dangerous ) the starter , cables , all connections , etc. are in good condition . But a quick basic test . Check out the Top Don BT-200 barrery tester reviewed by Mechanic Mindset , a respected tech . A great tester , about $ 80.00 USD . Plus he is " across the pond " , in your area ! Brilliant ! 😂 BTW : If I went into a shop and they were using the old school " toaster " load tester in today's world , RUN !!!

[@super8forever]

very helpful. thanks

[@ReviveMyRide]

No probs at all! 👍😀

[@mrpeterpumpkin48]

I feel SO smart now! Thank you!

[@earlbucklin8323]

great job............ thanks

[@goforitrazz]

The residual voltage after charging means nothing, I have a load tester but i may just turn the fan,lights,and wipers on to get rid of the initial high reading,and if the voltage comes down after a few minutes below 12.25, its likely finished,may not start already.Using the starter to load test is assuming the starter is functioning properly, video is good👍

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! The test is just something I came across that worked for me, with me not having a load tested and that I thought I would share! Lots of “experts” getting excited about it in the comments though… 😂 Residual voltage is something I learnt about during the making of the video, good tip to turn on a few things to make it dissipate. 👍 Thanks for your comment. Cheers, Phil

[@ArcanePath360]

My voltage is displayed on my dash on my bike. When I first power up, before cranking, the V sometimes shows it's as low as 6-7v but rapidly rising until it slowly creeps up to 12.2 where I crank it. If I try to start it too soon it dies momentarily and the bike does a factory reset. Usually the 2nd crank it starts up fine.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Very weird symptoms! I haven’t come across that before…

[@ArcanePath360]

@@ReviveMyRide I think there's a big load on it, just as I power it on. It has automatic suspension control which I think it tests as well as a servo motor on the exhaust valve, ABS pump, all kinds of diagnostics I don't even understand. There's a whirring noise which doesn't seem to go away either. I just bought the Topdon BT20 load tester so maybe that will reveal some of what's going on with my starting issues, as sometimes it is a bit iffy at cranking.

[@stevenPounder-p4b]

Batteries especially lead acid don’t have much of a gradual decline in CCA capacity. It’s common to go from starting your vehicle to almost junk when you go for the next start. Simply put end of life is abrupt. It’s just time to replace it. For piece of mind the auto parts store has a load tester to verify the battery. Just personal preference but if you can swing it a AGM style battery is better in every way to a lead acid. With all of that said verify all connections are tight and making proper contact. A weak connection can act like a bad battery or starter ect.

[@letter2steve]

Awesome video. Really helpful. Thanks so much.

[@iansellers406]

Very éducational learned alot thank you

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks!

[@fredericksaxton3991]

Thank you for this arcane knowledge. 🙂

[@ReviveMyRide]

No probs, cheers for you comment! 👍😎

[@ColAngus]

Very informative and helpful, thank you.

[@abhishekjain1983]

No BS video with No marketing gimmickery. Could you do one on how to use a multimeter in detail ?

[@ReviveMyRide]

Why not? Little bit behind on my content right now but I’ll put it on the list! 👍 Thanks, Phil

[@leonardodavinci303]

Nice overview. You didn't put the other promised link in the description.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! Sorry about the link, totally forgot. I haven't done a video yet on this but there's a channel that I like to watch called "Eric the car guy". He did a good video on this, here's the link! kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXeUmJygn5VmlZI Cheers, Phil

[@petersimms4982]

🇨🇳👍

[@Priority57]

At what outside temperature should this test be performed?

[@ReviveMyRide]

As it’s just a quick and dirty test, my opinion but I don’t think it’s super critical. Whatever temp it is outside, you don’t have a lot of control over that. It was about 15 degrees C out during my test if that helps. I would imagine your results may be different if it is below zero outside though… cheers, Phil

[@cody6.6max]

What if my truck starter clicks . It’s a Duramax had two batteries . I disconnected one to get reading in each one . Each one is over 12 volts when I go to start it I can see it drops down to 11.2 or so , I’m getting 9.5-10.5 volts on the starter s wire while cranking when it does want to start , most of the time if clicks

[@davidmg1925]

I going to run this up to twitter a sits that time of the year and youare bang on the button.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thank you! ☺️

[@cobar5342]

Thank you for a very good video

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thank you! 👍😀

[@mikenumpty9366]

Are solar trickle chargers good to keep the battery topped up?

[@frank88ster]

You forgot to check for 'match car to battery amp output (cold crank amp)? A bigger engine? ( type), diesel or normal requires bigger CCA to start. Just a normal 12v car battery will struggle to start a bigger engine.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks, that’s a great tip! I did assume that the correct battery was already fitted to the vehicle but as you say, there are times when that might not be the case, particular if you buy a used car 👍😎

[@tonyjetton8352]

Good and accurate presentation.

[@chriselfyn]

Very useful. Thanks very much!

[@glidezilla]

Brilliant, thanks.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Glad you liked it! 👍😀

[@ecpoirier]

You say that 9.65V is the minimum (for the car to start) 5min 15seconds. I just performed this test on my battery. At rest the battery only shows 10.6V, and when under load, the minimum was only 6.0V, but 14.1V while running. Can I revive my battery by putting it on a trickle charger - or is it time for a new battery?

[@paulthompson1654]

Battery state of charge [by volts] Battery under crank load [volts] Battery drain using amp meter around 30mah Alternator test fast idle 1200-1500rpm at 14 volts or better starter current draw test No more than 300 AMPS 10 volt minimum . The occasional dip below 10v is ok providing stater is working ok Starter motor voltage to solenoid wire better than 12volts during crank

[@GiancarloPacico]

Thank you very instructive

[@ReviveMyRide]

You are welcome! 😎

[@andysaunders3708]

Very helpful. Thanks for making this.

[@christophersmith7714]

Where is the link for the battery drain video?

[@ojara]

Great video! 🫡

[@CAG5205]

Nice example 👍🏼

[@ReviveMyRide]

cheers! 😎

[@nevillepillay1755]

Best video i have seen

[@jonathanwebb8307]

Probably just wants topping up with water. Some of the Varta batteries you can peal off the label and unscrew the caps to top them up. I can see circular outlines on the label so maybe that's the case here. I managed to get a fair few extra years out of mine by topping it up. Unfortunately many if not most are physically sealed to stop owners topping them up.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi @jonathanwebb8307 Thanks for sharing, that's a good point! I have topped up batteries before, even made my own distilled water (now that's a video no-one wants to watch!) but didn't on this occasion... Cheers, Phil

[@noeldoyle4501]

Thanks for your helpful information.

[@stephen7627]

my battery is still warm even after 5 hours prior to engine turned off , is this normal ? voltage and amps are normal. thanks ( w246 )

[@seeyouintheeighties]

mine reads 12.6 and 10.5 during cranking (but not turning over) as my immobiliser seems to keep forgetting key transponder codes and stopping it from turning over and I can't work out why

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi @seeyouintheeighties sorry, if you can't keep it cranking for a good 5-10 seconds, then you can't perform the test properly. Also, if your immobiliser is playing up, there's a good chance it is the source of your problem. Cheers, Phil

[@geoffhanbury4978]

Apologies for a possibly dumb comment but does removing a lead form a modern car battery (my car is a Skoda Octavia 1.5tsi 2019) cause problems with the car "recognising" the battery when you reconnect?

[@ReviveMyRide]

@geoffhanbury4978 It's actually a very good question! I can't say 100% but I have disconnected the battery on lots of modern cars and never had a problem. A lot of people do it as a basic "ECU reset" from time to time. If I had your car, I wouldn't hesitate to disconnect the battery if I needed to. My latest project car is a 2022 BMW M135i, I disconnected the battery because I'm taking the engine out and I don't expect a problem with it not recognizing the battery when I put it back on. If you search the term "skoda disconnecting battery forum" on google, you will get lots of hits and can do some reading that will help you decide. Hope this helps. Cheers, Phil

[@geoffhanbury4978]

Well @revivemyride? Grateful for a reply.

[@tigermoth3194]

Great video. Now subscribed 👍👍

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thank you! And great to have you as a subscriber 👍😎 cheers, Phil

[@LarryB-inFL]

This is not really a situation to do a load test; if you see a 0.6V drop from full in a few minutes with the car off, then there is either a problem with significant drain on the battery, or the battery is rapidly self-discharging. What you *should* have done is first disconnect the negative lead and check amperage flowing out of the battery with car off. It should be *very* low, I've never measured it but I'd expect less than 200mA. And if it is high, like 1A, then I would expect there is a problem. But more likely, you would see a reasonable number, and all you should do then is leave the battery disconnected and see if it is self -draining. That is common in older lead-acid batteries, as the plates will sulfate and drop that sulfate to the bottom, where it builds up and eventually shorts a cell. If the battery is good, it will barely drop in voltage. Even with a little load on it, you should see it drop to 13.2V, which is the steady state for a full battery (2.2V per cell), before it finally drops and stays at 12V. But if a cell is bad, it will continue to drop, possibly down to 10V (5 times 2V) if one cell is bad, and even lower if the problem is across cells. Also, not sure I would call what you did a "Load Test", but labels may differ across the Atlantic. Here in the USA, a Load Test is putting a measured heavy load on the battery and looking at the current it supplies as well as the voltage the battery can hold up.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks for the very comprehensive comment! I did check the amperage “drain” and it was negligible. I don’t really think it matters what order you do these tests in, it’s more of a process of elimination, usually starting with the most likely and I had a feeling the battery wasn’t holding charge. Maybe I should have included it but I was trying to stay focussed on the load test in this video. My battery is 14 months old and has never been left in a discharged state, so I knew the problem wasn’t sulphate. I’m aware of method for a Full load test using a known heavy load but most people don’t have one of these at home and it’s harder to get to a shop for it to be done if your car is having starting problems. I’ve used this method of using the starter motor as the load many times and have always gotten really good results. Maybe give it a try next time you have a battery issue and see how the tests compare? Thanks, Phil

[@petersimms4982]

🇨🇳👍

[@ralphmowery2898]

When a battery is first taken off charge it will be somewhat higher than the battery will be after it sits a while even if it is disconnected from the car. The battery usually shows about a half a volt higher just after a charge than the normal battery voltage. If the voltage goes below about 12.6 by half a volt then there is a problem. Either a bad battery or a heavy load on the battery.

[@robertjeffery6100]

@@ReviveMyRide

[@riceburner4747]

​@ralphmowery2898 Yes, it's called a "surface charge".👍

[@susanhenderson2322]

Take battery to a parts store, they will perform a proper load test using the correct tester, your crank till it starts is insufficient time at the minimum disable ignition system and crank for thee recommended time to simulate a longer crank before start.

[@kirkboivin4357]

With that much voltage drop recorded, no further testing is required. It's junk. 😢

[@alangardiner872]

The difference, is you have to leave your home, and when they specify, plus, this is costly, inconvenient and is achieved once. You could buy a multi-tester for less than the "reputable Garage" fee for carrying out the test, which with the greatest of respect to the hypothetical party, you most likely would not be present at the test. No substitute beats seeing and doing with your own eyes, independently, also where, when, and as often as you choose to across a collection of various vehicles.

[@simeunovicm]

You have volt meter on mercedes dash menu in case there is no multimeter around

[@ReviveMyRide]

Good tip! Not sure it will be sensitive enough for a load test but it may at least give you an indication of what is happening with the battery and alternator. 👍 Cheers, Phil

[@MrConan89]

Excellent and useful video.

[@hap1n355]

I have a upgraded car stereo with amp and if I turn off the engine and leave the light on with radio it will drain my battery with in 5-10 minutes.

[@ReviveMyRide]

@hap1n355 wow, that's quite a battery drain!

[@bobthrasher8226]

Great idea.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! ☺️

[@mrnoedahl]

Great video my hillbilly friend.

[@ReviveMyRide]

😅

[@labirsingh5416]

Well explained. Tq

[@ReviveMyRide]

cheers! 👍

[@StopTeoriomSpiskowym]

At first i think check charge cables. If its not charge correctly can be good voltage but not work. 13,4v looks like broken cable (overheat terminal)

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

The battery can show 12.7 and NOT be able to start the motor because it has no capacity or current flow. Voltage is only half the story in batteries.

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

The engine cranking SLOW is YOUR test that the battery is low ... You dont need a multimeter to confirm a low or dead battery

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi, thanks for your comment. It’s a subtle difference but the test isn’t to check the battery is low because in that case, you could just charge it up. The purpose of the test is to check the capacity of the battery when fully charged. This is a good indication of how much lifespan the battery has left or if it is time to change it. Thanks, Phil

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

@@ReviveMyRide The motor will still tell you the capacity of a fully charged battery. Just listen to how it cranks.

[@moisty254]

So that's what the min max buttons do. I'm an electrician and I've never even used that function 😅.

[@ReviveMyRide]

First time I’ve used them too! 😂

[@daverich3352]

What no sponsor?, how refreshing.

[@Golfr2020]

Good info. Thank you

[@298CRE8]

Apologies I think you messed up your supposed to speak very far from the mic or quietly and have really overbearing loud music so your heard less and also tell people you think it should and possibly alot more so you sound like it's the first time you've done this oh and push your chest out abit I think you'll do great keep it up😅🫡🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@rosemcbirney5123]

My battery is saying charged 1345 on the bench should it still read that number in the morning if it’s drops down is telling me the battery is failing

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi, does charged 1347 mean 13.47 volts? Yes, I would expect the battery to have pretty much the same charge in the morning if disconnected and left overnight. If it has dropped a lot, then yes, that wouldn’t be good news for the battery. However, if it stays the same, doesn’t mean the battery is good, hence doing load tests etc to test the battery. Cheers, Phil

[@rosemcbirney5123]

Thank you for responding I will get a load test

[@mikethompson3534]

Good accurate video

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thank you! ☺️👍

[@peterasmussen2933]

thanks mate

[@nishan375]

Thanks.

[@johncongerton7046]

Excellent

[@paulm415]

The test without the MIN/MAX function on meter would not be much good with about 3 volts difference on minimum reading. Those Fluke meters are very expensive I believe.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Yes, definitely easier with min/max function but still possible without. Yes, agree, the Fluke meters are expensive but very good! Other less expensive meters that still have Min/Max are out there… cheers, Phil

[@ehrenleleski8204]

is this old Greg?

[@mazdaman1286]

Take your car to a reputable garage that has a battery tester. They will select the type and capacity then the tester will show the actual capacity and the internal resistance. Job done.

[@alangardiner872]

The difference, is you have to leave your home, and when they specify, plus, this is costly, inconvenient and is achieved once. You could buy a multi-tester for less than the "reputable Garage" fee for carrying out the test, which with the greatest of respect to the hypothetical party, you most likely would not be present at the test. No substitute beats seeing and doing with your own eyes, independently, also where, when, and as often as you choose to across a collection of various vehicles.

[@topsmate]

Hello, we have a car starter power product which has powerful features it uses the latest technology sodium batteries strong endurance multifunctional can be used in all kinds of extreme weather we need you to help us send a test video interested in learning more about it?

[@DanWright-w7x]

You can Buy a Digital Battery Analyzer for around $35-$40 that will tell you the State of Charge and the Health of the Battery .

[@ReviveMyRide]

Yes, that’s true. If you’re going to be checking batteries fairly regularly then it would be a good idea to buy one 👍 but for a one off, if you already have a multimeter, then the method in the video is a good option. Cheers, Phil

[@stvargas69]

How many hobbyist are gonna go buy a $600 fluke 88? Amazon has battery analyzers for $100. Save the $500 so you can buy a new battery

[@ReviveMyRide]

@stvargas69 Thanks for you comment! Yes, agree, don't go and buy a Fluke unless you also work in industry (which I did, which is why I have one!) and need the extra functionality it offers. There are other less expensive multimeters out there for working on cars which will be the job but that wasn't the topic of the video, maybe the next one... 👍 Thanks, Phil

[@digger8180]

👍

[@joe-hp4nk]

Everything shuts down while the engine is starting and comes back after starting.

[@konstantin-big]

1) you can charge the battery with a battery charger If you have the same problem after that 2)Then you have bad contact in the cables to the battery

[@joe-hp4nk]

@@konstantin-big You misunderstood. While the starter is engaged all power to everything else shuts off.

[@konstantin-big]

​@@joe-hp4nk I am not there in the car to see, just giving some chances of error f.ex. problem in the start switch contacts

[@ReviveMyRide]

How are the injectors getting fuel? How are the spark plugs getting voltage? The ECU to control the ignition and air fuel mixtures? I could go on…

[@spalmgre9167]

You can not measure the charge of the battery before 12-24 hours after stop chargin. The voltage for a fully charged battery will then be 12,5V. The level you are mesuring in the begining of the video does not give any rialable informtion of the charge level.

[@julesviolin]

That cranking sounded really slow rpm to me without even looking at the meter.😅

[@ReviveMyRide]

Agree! You mean the second crank right? First one sounded ok and a lot of people only do one load test. I’ve learned to do two because if you do a short journey, the alternator doesn’t have much time to charge the battery and you can get stranded! Cheer, Phil

[@petersimms4982]

🇨🇳👍

[@Nemesis-yn5wv]

That is not how you load test a battery. Use a carbon pile load tester. They are under £100. Batteries need to be tested to their factory rating, the starter motor doesn’t even go near to that amperage.

[@fourfortyroadrunner6701]

There is a lot wrong here. Under 10V is getting iffy for starting. Your so called load test does not take into account engine problems, or more commonly, a bad starter drawing over-amperage. I realize this is a "quick and dirty" deal, I do this myself, but be VERY aware that you can be lead down the primrose path. 14.8, by the way, is too high for engine running / charging voltage.

[@petersimms4982]

Spent 40 years fix German dumpsters , always problems with power drains, spilt drinks,water ingress?? A living nightmare. I’m retired and drive a Tesla mod3 ,never been sooooo happy 😉

[@ReviveMyRide]

I had a Merc CLK for 12yrs, and a BMW Z4 for a similar amount of time, never any issues but the newer cars? Now that’s a different story. I’m glad you are enjoying your Tesla, I’ve been in one, fantastic machines but not my cup of tea 🫖 cheers, Phil

[@tammmacdonald7723]

The voltage does not indicate the chargers. Digital multimeters don’t instantly show measurements. In fact the only thing your test shows is that alternator seems to be working properly. However to confirm all the electrical systems need to be switched on and the terminal voltage monitored. Overall this is a poor video.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks for your opinion but sorry, your first sentence doesn’t make sense. I have used this test many times and it does give a good indication of battery health. If the battery can’t maintain a minimum voltage during cranking, it won’t start, usually this means the battery is down on cold cranking amps, this test helps you check this. Also, my Fluke multimeter does show voltage quickly enough to see the minimum voltage, as can be seen in the video. if you are worried about not reading it in time, buy one like mine with a min/max function, it records it! Turning on other electrical systems in the car will be peanuts compared to the draw from the starter motor, therefore it’s not required. Please do me a favour, carry out the test and then come back and comment. Thanks, Phil

[@tammmacdonald7723]

@@ReviveMyRide I can understand why you would think that but just because you have done this many times doesn’t make it right. When you took the first measurement after charging you noted the higher voltage. This is called a surface charge because it is caused by capacitance and an electrostatic charge on the plates. Like any capacitor it decays over time. The only way to know the charge in a lead acid battery is by measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Modern battery testers measure the battery capacitance as the electrolyte also acts as a dielectric that deteriorates as the battery degrades. Multimeters are not instantaneous. Quality ones do read very quickly but they still need time for the A to D converter to sample. There’s plenty of good information on line from manufacturers such as EXIDE, SAFT, CONCORDE. I hope you find this useful.