How to replace a Peugeot 206 rear trailing arm bearings

[@geoffpartis234]

Brilliant video. It gave me the confidence to do the job. However, and there is always a 'however', my torsion bars were totally seized in their housings and would not come off like the ones in your video. I had to find a six foot long by one and a quarter inch solid bar which I slid over the subframe to be able me to hit the torsion bar housing from behind. I had to really swing a 7lb sledge hammer at full swing to move the bar out of its splines. If in doubt, hit it harder! The torsion bar eventually came out of the subframe leaving the bar still attached to the arm. I repeated the process with a vice on the ground and a car ramp to support my bar in the right position. I then hit the end of the bar with the sledge hammer and after about ten minutes real hard hammering I managed to get the bar out of the swinging arm. It was safer to use the bar to avoid damaging the brake pipe holder bracket. I then cleaned just the rust off the splines with a thread file and ended up with a torsion bar that would slide in and out of its housing. Using the six foot long bar meant I was hammering away from the bodywork and the arm, making the risk of damaging the car or arm less. Yes, I really did swing the hammer hard! Re-assembly was easy and as 'per the video', although I find the inner bearing hard to get in and used a bearing puller kit. Thank you for a really good video.

[@KENTYtv]

For me driving the outer bearing in to a depth of 5/8 inch or 16mm allowed the axle shaft to be fully inserted into the bearing when I put the arm back on. Any less will result in the shaft not occupying the full width of the bearing .This measurement will also give maximum spacing between the inner and outer bearings for optimum stability of the arm. How far the arm slides onto the shaft is governed by the torsion bar. It's worth noting that the end seal will also have to be driven in to allow the anti roll bar end plates to insert/locate correctly into the the arm, I drove mine down until they GENTLY met the edge of the bearing. CarAndMechanical could you please pin this vital information where people can see it Thank you for a great instructional video which is so helpful, The Haynes Manual said that the job was beyond the scope of the manual and didn't help at all. Cheers, John ...

[@alexisamtosta]

Excellent video. I need to do this on my 206. I got all the tools and bearings but I only had 4 hours to do it and I did not want to take risks. I use the car 7 days a week. The right side is worst than the left. The right wheel already has some camber. I will give it a go next week.

[@RamusisTrenksmas]

Wonderful tutorial! Just changed bearings on my Peugeot yesterday. However you really need a blow torch to move some of those rusty screws and as some people mentioned here before, you may really need a big hammer, blow torch and a lot of anger to make that red torsion bar moving. I almost gave up on the whole job having rear end already taken apart :-D

[@Triicks111]

informative but missing a few crucial parts. Firstly the removal of the torsion bars are the single most hardest part of the whole job which you didn't cover. You need some powerful gear i.e big blow torch, sledge hammer and a solid steel drift with some good penetration oil to move them. (unless you have an air chisel or a 20kg slide hammer) Also by the state of those bearing 99% the axle pins will have deep grooves in them and will need re machining if you plan to do more than a 1000 miles. if i had any kind of play like that, for the sake of £200 delivered you can have a fully refurbished one. My advice, save up and by a refurbed one.

[@karlbatty8136]

Very good observation x

[@oluftheexplorer9476]

This is why one simply replaces the entire rear axle.

[@tonyvobe1886]

Good video. But you failed to mention to take measurements or make marks first before removing the toothed torsion bar.

[@CosgroveNotts]

Far too many experts on here. This lad did OK well done

[@richardhume2811]

Did this job last week. No garage would touch it. A recon axle was £200 so bought the bearings and got stuck in. It didn't go to plan. Took about 12 hrs to do. The main problem was that my bearings hadn't collapsed. They had seized then tightened onto the shaft. Car cornered great as it basically had no rear suspension. It took hours of heating hammering using pullers etc to get one axle off the other one was not as bad and came off with less sweat. The stupid washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt idea is an absolute nightmare at the end of the torsion bars. One bolt never came out in the end. Never mind all done now but at one point I almost gave up and just set the car on fire !!

[@richardhume2811]

One thing to say is that knocking out and putting the new bearings in was the easiest part of the job :)

[@CarAndMechanical]

Firstly - congrats I think this job comes in different flavours of anger looking through various comments. Quite a few have said they've beaten 7 shades of the thing to get the torsion bar out and when we worked on this is was just a little tricky, it sounds like you got the full FFS treatment. I hope you treated yourself to a nice beer or 4 after, also must be rewarding to of gotten it done.

[@HoseaGodwin]

You have saved my day with this lesson thank you so much God bless you in Jesus mighty name amen

[@MrBodgeitbrown]

spot on video ...perfectly explained mate now got the confidence to attack it myself cheers

[@rudolfbeqiri4646]

Thank u ,thank u, thank u for this video. Here in Albania having this problem it means spending a lot of many . Every one says that it is a very dificult think to do. They only sugest to change all the trailing arm. This page is the best!!! I will sugest it to all my friends.Thank u again

[@CarAndMechanical]

It can be a pain but it also can be done, hope this helps you get things sorted.

[@rudolfbeqiri4646]

I forgot to ask do u have a name of the goos brand that makes this part?

[@bojandjeric7163]

I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best.

[@lindenbarwise6034]

Good video and after watching it I felt confident enough to tackle the job myself, on hinde sight I wished I never, although it's a good video, theirs a lot missing, main part Ben the removal of the torsion bar.

[@hease1]

This is only half of the job. yes the bearing are knackered but also the pin where bearing slides onto will be worn also and needs replacing

[@larsk7708]

whats that for part then ?

[@JohnSmith-vz8pc]

@@larsk7708 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-206-98-07-REAR-AXLE-BEAM-TRAILING-ARM-REPAIR-KIT-SHAFT-BEARINGS-RA4/332257481670?hash=item4d5c16d3c6:g:I2QAAOSwa0xfDcL9

[@colinware4295]

Well explained especially for DIY mechanics having limited tooling,thankyou.

[@MsCrazytoo]

Brilliant! Explains how to do this very easily. A life saver. Not a difficult as people say by the look?

[@bojandjeric7163]

I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best. 👌👍💪

[@tajwalikhan5082]

Absolutely brilliant video everything pinpointed perfectly on how to do it your self. Thank you.

[@Madsstuff]

Fabulous. Is this the same way in which you can lower the backend too, Just by changing which tooth the arms latch into?? I need to replace both my arms, I want to drop the back end a little too.

[@mohamadrezaash1151]

Thanks for the great video. I hear a noise sometimes, around the rear axle, passanger side, like two plates sliding on each other for a sec. I hear this noise when i hit a hard corner, or when i drive with the reverse gear, it's quite unpleasant. Any idea what might be causing the problem. The car is quite old by the way, bout 8 years on the road. Thanks.

[@roberthorwat6747]

Fan bloody tastic!!! About as crystal clear and simple to understand, follow and implement as a Haynes manual is none of these things🤣

[@spyrosbellos2522]

Can this be the cause of the rear wheels having negative camber?

[@JohnSmith-vz8pc]

A very good video, I would suggest using a powerful LED floodlight under the wing, esp. when it's sunny, as it's hard to see the details in the shade (your camera is automatically turning the exposure down) My o/s ARB bracket had snapped off completely near the 13mm bolt, as so the wheel was rubbing on the inside of the wheel arch! (rough roads)

[@willswheels283]

People say that replacing the bearings instead of the whole beam is more difficult and that you can find that the trailing arm bearing housing can also be worn. So is this true? as your video makes it look pretty straight forward.

[@CarAndMechanical]

Sorry for the delay coming back to you - it's a toss up of effort vs cost and how good the replacement unit is. Probably easier to replace the unit but might cost more and roll of the dice with the life left in it.

[@predatortt7694]

Best Vid i found about this! Thanks very much and greets from Deutschland

[@campbellpurdie7274]

Great video, thanks for putting it online. I've got this very problem, I can easily manage that now I've seen how to do it. Thanks.

[@chriswhitham9233]

Hi , thanks for this I may have to do this very soon , got mot next saturday I have a noise on the same side, a recon axle is about £350 on ebay

[@hipstarchild]

Awesome video. I enjoyed watching this. Thanks for the upload !

[@BillCarrIpswich]

400 quid to replace the rear beam is a very good quote, especially as an Imaxle beam runs about 200 just for the part.

[@CarAndMechanical]

Bare in mind inflation that seems more reasonable now, but it was also only a cheap car.

[@BillCarrIpswich]

@@CarAndMechanical I think they were still a similar price years back. 15 notes if you're willing to deal with the aggro is great, but 400 for the peace of mind both sides are done and no grazed knuckles is great too, esp. since this is the only big bill you're ever going to get from this car.

[@gravelyvoltas8897]

Fantastic, I just discovered the same problem on my 306 estate and the first thing I read online was some doom merchant insisting it wasn't a home job but needed a refurbished axle. Then I found your video and it's plain to see I will be able to do it myself. Thanks for your steady filming and clear advise, I've subscribed!

[@garethjones8047]

And did you get it done yourself?

[@gravelyvoltas8897]

@@garethjones8047 You know what ,as in the comment below by hease1, the whole kit and caboodle was knackered, so I did follow the "doom"(aka perfectly right!) merchant's advice... refurbed axle fitted. Now if only I could get rid of the horrendous clunk from the front end, on rough tracks. I've fitted everything from new shocks to new engine mounts and all the swively bits inbetween...

[@garethjones8047]

@@gravelyvoltas8897 I've owned a 306 dturbo for the past 18 years. Mine has done 221k now and I still use it daily. I'm a hgv mechanic so only really maintain my own cars and friends and family etc. The only front end clocks I've ever had from mine are when the anti roll bar link arms are worn. I have done track rod ends and ball joints a few times during my ownership, also the front wishbone rear P bushes seem to be a weak spot. But it's been an amazing car. Are you sure a little piece of coil spring hasn't broken off at the bottom? I've seen this a few times on various cars where the broken piece sits in the cup and just rattles around.

[@garethjones8047]

Just realised you said you fitted new shocks so you would have spotted that.

[@gravelyvoltas8897]

@@garethjones8047 thanks for your advice. Me agricultural mechanic... Swapped the coil springs onto new shocks 5 months ago, new balljoints, TRE's, lower wishbones, one recon (long) driveshaft, ARB bushes. I now know the LHS driveshaft is on its way out ,but I've still not solved the cause of the hellish loud bang from down low on RHS front as I accelerate up our rough as f**k Hill track. Unless the cheap wishbone's rear bush is so weak it's like a worn out one... ! Any experience with worn subframe bushes Gareth? They SEEM firm..

[@cliveabbott9172]

very good video, thank you take it you measured the distance just after unbolting the shock bolt, just before sliding it off the torsion bar?

[@CarAndMechanical]

+Clive Abbott yes that's correct, you should be fine as long as all variables are the same as such, but before is better.

[@ezech23]

Hey mate, mine started to knocking in the rear passenger side but it is only when i hit big potholes. How long did you have it since it was really bad? Im not sure if this has to be done right now or can wait till some months. Thanks!

[@fdr1895]

Very helpful. Distance between lower arm and body before bush repair was 220mm but after it was 190mm, both sides. Will this be problematic, e.g. with four passengers?

[@wilki61]

Thank you for taking time to do this video very helpful indeed

[@McPaulD]

Muchas gracias. Excelente video. Probablemente el mejor que he visto debido a la explicación detallada. Se ve tan fácil sabiéndolo hacer. Gracias

[@surrenderonceagain]

God bless you, my friend I've been looking for this info a lot, I already subscribed to your channel.

[@adrianleighuk]

Great video and something I've got to have a go at. Out of interest, how would you go about doing both sides at the same time? The car I'm working squeaks all the time from both sides?

[@spiritualitymatters.1106]

Brilliantly explained buddy, and much appreciated 🙂

[@riglandsfeldt4807]

The shaft the trailing arm goes over must be replaced as well. When the bearings looks like that, the shaft will have grooves that causes the new bearings to fail again in no time.

[@roberthorwat6747]

Yes and I've had a look to see if there is a vid that shows you how to replace 'em. No can find. How do you get them out? The rate I go through drop links I think just replacing the bearings every now and then quite satisfactory for unauthorised meddlers with crap tools, such as I am.

[@MrFaceonline]

nice video, have to change the bearings on my pug 206. Is it possible to remove/delete the middle stabilisator bar? will it have big impact on driving experience, cornering etc? I have seen used/repaired rear beams with removed middle stabilizator bar. How about swapping the needle bearings with self lubricating bronze or plastic bushes? especially the outside bearing, where the axle is usually also damaged.

[@nikolaymutev7342]

Perfectly done video tutorial ! Thank you !

[@amirouw]

Nice job . But are you sure that the main axle foley is intact ?? Imean . . . The backbone of this PSA rear axle is a big hollow tube and two smaller ones fitted to one side of that . How can you make sure its not bended or ....

[@neilnewbon6112]

Excellent video, that will make my life easier, thanks.

[@AliMackMechanical]

How the heck did you remove the torsion bar I see you took it out one end and left it in the other side your working on. It's the only part you left out of this video it's not the worst job your right. But taking the torsion bar out are almost impossible on the deck. Please don't think am having a go what you did is great but need to know how you got the torsion bar of before I go and buy an axle

[@stottybox3185]

It looked a bit daunting for me, but after watching this i think i might get the wife to do it.

[@roberthorwat6747]

Chortle🤣

[@banntheman7925]

GREAT SIMPLE VID VERY WELL DONE NOW I HAVE TO DO MY WIFES CAR????? THANK YOU AGAIN

[@geoffcbr929]

excellent job my man!,clearly put and boring bits sped up nicely...top job:0)

[@dwfmedia]

Absolutely dab tutorial, this is my next job so this video is fab, thanks .. I'm a little confused by having to measure the distance of the bar,I think you said it was 220 mm or something,is that because it fits on splines or something? It makes me think that I could get this bit wrong , I'll research anyway but this is a fab video thanks

[@CarAndMechanical]

Basically you want the height the same after as before if that makes sense. So the measurement before lets you know where it was.

[@fsto9039]

Hi, great video. Do you know of any resources for removing disk brakes in the same manner you removed drum brake? I'd prefer not having to dismantle all the various parts of the brake and just take the whole thing off in one piece similar to how you did with drum brake. Do you know if that's possible?

[@ivanpage2813]

Great video , wondering if it's the same as the citroen xsara n1 ?

[@jamie57061]

Spot on video! A lot easier than i thought! Thanks a lot!

[@timtimothy6053]

so the negative camber of the wheel its caused buy the trailing arm bears ?? or the whole axle. ???

[@paulwinters9885]

Truly excellent DIY video. Now how does the brake backing plate come off the axel (10:27)? Just undoing the 4 Torx bolts or did you use a 3-arm puller? Cheers.

[@CarAndMechanical]

Sorry for the delay - yep it's undo and pop off...or pry if unlucky job. I think I noted in the video we ended up doing the opposite side but end of the day one side comes off.

[@Yannis2022]

Trailing arm stuck due to torsion bar stuck and gonna try with a jack hammer. Should I hammer on the torsion bar or on the trailing arm?

[@romeosanchez6221]

you literally saved my life

[@roderickmiller3847]

Dear Sir. I have just watched your video on repairing trailing arm bearings, on a Peugeot. My question is, I have a Citron C5 With the same problem, is the procedure the same? Any information would be appreciated. Rod M

[@Heco171]

I need to say, its perfect this tutorial, u saved my life! Ty so much.

[@jamescroasdale8639]

Heco171 ww

[@trevermartinn9679]

Hi, I am in the middle of doing this job but I am stuck because the driver side trailing arm will not come free from lower roll bar , I have removed the torq bolt and washer which was very very rusted in. I expected the trailing arm to come free from the splines of the roll bar but it won't. I notice in this video that the roll bar comes off with the trailing arm but I think mine is still connected at the other end . either way with the torq bolt and washer out the arm should hammer free from the roll bar shouldn't it ? Any comments appreciated Trevor

[@sean12393]

Go and buy yourself a 12lb sledgehammer, seriously

[@luisrios1140]

🇨🇱📻👂🎧🎶👋🏻🦕🦖 Gracias Tengo el mismo problema ojalá pueda encontrar esos rodamientos Saludos desde chile No entiendo nada de tu idioma pero esta muy claro el video

[@kirazh1646]

hey ..great work...but I have a question..is this repairing way works for the second side (the left side) too. thx :-)

[@CarAndMechanical]

Hi, thanks and sorry for the delay in coming back to you. It should be the same for both sides - as seen in the video we didn't get the torsion bar out of the side we were working on so had to get it out from the other side.

[@llewellynwilliams1956]

you pick a lovely day to do it

[@kazx2487]

Awesome step by step guide😎

[@josefschubernig7627]

You must replace the complete set with the bold and the bearing .!!!!!!!!!!!

[@gstree]

A good video, however I do a fair number of these in my job as a mechanic and if the bearings have been worn for ages very often the tube that the bearings fit over will be worn as well, sometimes just fitting bearings will not cure the problem unfortunately. but worth the try and as I said a good video.

[@CarAndMechanical]

+gstree I agree, sometimes it's triage though and this was a close one, but it mainly just needed to be back on the road even if OTR was 10-20k

[@nirmalalimbachia2186]

great help, made the job easy to do with your vedio, thanks

[@benjaminmartinussen2388]

Hey again just a quik qusten. Will it make sounds if it's have snaped if it's a think?

[@roberthunt3450]

Forget it unless your suspension has only just started knocking. Mine was well warn, the bearing had eaten into the axle shaft get a second hand one

[@DCox-ku1qt]

what size drift do you need to tap the outer bearing in i see you used a 38mm socket, whats the outside diameter informative vid btw

[@willtricks9432]

Watched this, a Great how to . Thanks

[@prolificspeechhouse4012]

Thank you! Very well explained, that I'm starting to feel like a Pro.

[@darrenlee2510]

great help using this video. help me loads. keep up the great work.

[@jdt5964]

Brilliant, well explained and delivered.

[@billyparr9689]

Cheers mate big help took some stress of my mind anyway

[@oscarzt1652]

when would you want to undertake this task? what symptoms would suggest this is needed?

[@Sceancs]

Very nice video, thank you!

[@JohnSmith-vz8pc]

10:44 Put it on a large socket, and it won't be trying to get away from you! do you also show how to replace the 47mm stub axle? My inner bearings wore a groove into it! 15:21 see nice groove in the stub axle, cut by the worn inner bearing

[@willswheels283]

Which is easier, replacing the axle beam or axle bearings independantly?

[@Nildur1]

Its same replacement parts for peugeot 206 2.0 HDI 66 kw 2001 ?

[@markbristow2606]

I've tried to follow your steps on how to do the bushes but I can't get the bars out

[@valttelaapotti1288]

The washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt so is it mandatory to get washer off to get torsion bar removed?

[@markgardner8786]

Going to try this on a Citroen Xsara tomorrow. N/S RHD. Will let you know how I get on.

[@CarAndMechanical]

+Mark Gardner Gardner all the best - hope it goes well

[@markgardner8786]

CarAndMechanical Sadly, not going at all well.Torsion bar has adjustable screw on opposite side with two indents that requires a specialist tool to remove. Spent over five hours on this today with no luck. Will try and adapt a socket tomorrow to release the opposite side but unsure as to how I can pull or push the torsion bar out. Thanks Mark

[@markgardner8786]

Absolute disaster at the moment. Another 5 hours and still unable to free the torsion bar. Will try to fabricate a tool tomorrow.

[@CarAndMechanical]

Sounds like this is the design where one end on the torsion bar is held in with a bolt, and the other is a nut on the outside. The male thread this nut goes onto is actually a double-ended adjuster to set the position of the trailing arm side-to-side, and I think the part with the two indents you're talking about is actually the end cap on where the torsion bar goes into the body of the rear beam. Now, I think these are actually replaceable, but as long as you've got the nut off the bit of thread sticking out the torsion bar, and the bolt out the end of the torsion bar where it goes into the swingarm, there shouldn't actually be anything holding the torsion bar in place. While that cap on the "static" end might stop you getting the torsion bar out in that direction, you shouldn't need to really, it should come out the swingarm side if it's going to move. If it really won't shift at all, you may have to pull off the swingarm with the torsion bar still in place, which shoudl work as long as it isn't seized into the splines at both ends. Unsure if this helps and what stages of this you might of tried?

[@revb0]

Excellent vid, thanks.

[@Joentje-fv9ho]

Got a Peugeot 306 with a squeaking rear-axle at the left side.It squeaks since a week now and I hope the bearings are dry and not worn.For now I've haven't checked if there's any slack in the arm. Is it possible to drill a hole into the arm and place a grease nipple between both bearings so I can pump some grease in?And do you think it will help?

[@CarAndMechanical]

+Jeroen Louter for the effort you'd need to do half the steps in the video anyway as you could get metal shavings in the arm which would cause more fun. If your that far might as well do the bearings, is there any play?

[@xavierrogers6171]

I try to remove, but the trailer won't come off. I don't know why.

[@benjaminmartinussen2388]

How much time did you spent on this? btw great video :)

[@masadelacasa]

I´m looking for replacing the bearing for 206 rear drum brake wheel.

[@jessestrum]

superb video and very well explained thanks

[@kurddata5228]

Good job. I don't have tools. I have to buy a complete rear axle :(

[@LubomirFotev]

Great video! Thanks for making it. I'm about to do the exercise myself and I saw that apart from the bearing some people replace the axels too, what's your criteria for replacing those?

[@philipyates7138]

Did you do the job, how was it

[@LubomirFotev]

@@philipyates7138 not yet, turns out my knocking wasn't coming from there.

[@adamstilldrives]

Lubomir did you have wheel play like the one in the video did? Did you find the knocking?

[@sandyt6691]

What is the triangular rubber thing at the top of the thumbnail? I’m replacing back axle and the metal piece under the rubber thing has rusted and needs replacing.

[@stuartmays]

Cheers mate,thank you

[@naymo1]

Good video, when trying to replace the bearing on my sons 206 the torx screw holding the torsion bar has rounded!! Does this really need to come out???

[@CarAndMechanical]

+naymo1 Yes I think it locks the arm in place if its the one I think you mean, 2 options here, use the next size up and get a spare from ebay or a motorfactor/dealers should be £1-2 I'd hope. Other options whilst getting the bit out would be drill it out (which is a pain) or can you knock into it to get a flat bladed screw driver into it. Read more

[@naymo1]

+SubarashiiOne thanks for the info, its the screw with the offset washer on it that he takes out. this and the brake bias bracker 13mm have rounded. im not having much luck on this fix. its back together now till next weekend when ill try again

[@fdr1895]

how critical is that distance of 220 mm between trail arm and body? In my case it was 190mm . But noted that my damper life was very much reduced, with the dampers becoming 'frozen'. Could the 30mm difference be responsible?

[@mohamedkaouane5253]

J'ai réparer mon essieux arr suivant votre démonstration merci

[@dwfmedia]

You my friend are awesome, thanks for this video

[@rickramsay7397]

Hi can you do both sides at the same time ?

[@realmediaproductions3184]

is trailing arm bearings also called needle bearings?

[@markr6344]

Just out of interest, what state was the beam pin in? Got this job to do for next test and it's been said that if the pin is in bad condition that'll need pressing out with a 60 tonne press? Don't mind the arm bearings but don't fancy the hassle of pressing pins out etc!

[@CarAndMechanical]

Yea we had fun on some bits so cut,hammered em off/out and gave the shaft a clean up. This was a case of bringing new life to an otherwise scrap car giving it extra life without spending to enough the car would run for another 10 years without that issue recurring. Funny you mention a press though, they do seem to be cheap enough should you need one and I am considering getting one.

[@rustybucket7891]

hi there im just about to replace my bushing but on my peugeot I have rear break calipers not drums are they as easy to take off as drums ?

[@matiasguerrero2718]

Thanks for you video, exelente me ayudo muchisimo

[@stephenhurry2177]

Is it the same for both sides

[@charbelnasr1475]

Does this fix the twist the wheel has ? My rear right wheel is twisted from the top towards the car just wondering if this method solves the twist

[@CarAndMechanical]

It will if it is caused by the bearing