Carburetor Fuel Hard Line From Scratch How-To On This Mopar 318 To Holley 4 Barrel.

[@aarvolaredonjunior1032]

I think about where my bends should be make a few marks on where to bend and which direction to bend then sit comfortably on my bike and use the top tube try it-works great.

[@rickflaro3795]

A good trick to fitting and making a new fuel line is the use a metal coat hanger and make a pattern with it and transfer for it to your fuel line

[@roadhardrestorations]

Yup I’ve done that as well! Unfortunately all the coat hangers around here are plastic lol

[@MuscleCityMadness]

Awesome Video! Great Info!

[@roadhardrestorations]

Appreciate it!

[@johnkelly5487]

Thanks for the 70 Duster series, the first new car my wife and I bought after we were married was a blue 70 Duster, 318, 3 speed on the floor. You've brought back some fond memories. What are your long term plans for it?

[@roadhardrestorations]

Glad your enjoying the videos. My Dad bought the 70 brand spankin’ new! The 70 is going to probably stay a bracket racer, but with a nice paint job. If I were to do it over I’d probably left it a street car and build a bracket car out of something else. Which as I am writing this is making me think about the 74 shell parked outside. Hummm…. Thanks for the post I think you may have just started something…. Stay tuned!

[@rickschlosser6793]

Difficult video to watch for me. Don’t get me wrong, for what you needed that will work great. The steel line will be sturdy, rust, abrasion and fire resistant and can easily handle the pressures involved. I worked in the oil & gas industry. As a steamfitter/pipefitter and as an industrial instrument mechanic. I bent a lot of tubing in 20+ years and I mean ‘a lot’. Likely over 25,000 feet. 1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, 3/4” & 1”. Stainless steel, all of it. 20’ sticks & sometimes 500’ rolls. Swagelok fittings. I had a set of Swagelok benders (pretty much the standard, you can actually run a nut around a Swagelok bend) and a set of Imperial Eastman ‘swing arm’ benders. I wore out a few of those little ‘Imp’ cutters you have, and I only used those for tight spots. I used a nice Swagelok cutter. Try running another 3 lines neatly along the one you just bent, then pressure testing the lot to 5000 psi or more. You did great considering you taught yourself. I had the advantage of working with some really smart people when I started, that really helped. Google ‘Swagelok Hand Tube Bender Manual’ if you want some pointers.

[@roadhardrestorations]

Automotive and industrial applications certainly call for their different specifications for required material in pipe and tubing. The automotive OE used steel lines for this application. Many race cars often use stainless braided PTFE hose and I’ve seen a lot of aluminum line which I personally don’t trust. Although we’re looking at not any more than 6 to 8 psi with a stock mechanical fuel pump. I’ve seen a lot of home made bent (kinked) lines that people are actually running on their car. I’m curious what was so difficult to watch on this video? I hope you didn’t find anything too cringe worthy lol.

[@rickschlosser6793]

@@roadhardrestorationsThere was never an intention to slag you there. It is just that I have trained dozens of apprentices on twisting tube. As an example, your very first bend, you do not explain how to line up the tube with the marks on the bender. (L, 45,R) They are there for a reason. I also noticed you rebent the first bend as the angle was incorrect. Did you consider that your bender shoe would hit your previous bend and possibly twist the tube mid bend? You had the option to bend away from your previous bend and didn’t. You also keep mentioning to put the nut on because the nut won’t go around the corner. That only occurs on a ‘compression’ tube bender. They oval the tube on a bend and will prevent the nut from going around a corner. But they make roller benders (Swagelok and others) that do not oval the tube and do allow the nut to go around corners. Like I said, in my world that could have been 3 tubes running through there and I would be expected to run them neatly parallel through there. For what you needed the piece you installed would be fine, but I found it difficult to watch because I could not show you the things you need to know if you are bending a lot of tube. Like the ‘L’ stands for ‘Line Up’ and ‘R’ for ‘Reverse bend’ (90 degree bends only), but that it is easier to remember if you think about where your straight length of tube lies. If it is to your left when bending, line up to the ‘L’. If the straight length is on your right when bending you should line up to the ‘R’. The 45 is for 45 degree bends either way. There is also an issue about ‘Tubing Gain’ that you need to know exists if you bend a lot of tube. Lastly, I rarely had to flare tubing. (Stainless is hard material) We used a ‘ferrule’ type fitting that uses no flare. It has a ‘ferrule and backup ring’ that gets wedged onto the tubing and provides a quick, reliable leak free connection… at a price. But well worth the price. Again, search the manual I suggested in my original comment for more information.

[@MOPARMuscleLEBANON]

not running a fuel return line ?

[@roadhardrestorations]

Nope. Not needed for a carburetor with a stock mechanical fuel pump.