CAT6 Wall Fishing

Checking out some tools from TechToolSupply.com and learning how to run CAT6 cables through my house. DO NOT take this as an instructional video - I am a complete novice at this, and learning as I go. Learn along with me as I attempt to not mess up my house.
TechToolSupply.com
Use coupon code 'CHRIS10' for 10% off any Cable Ferret or Magnepull product. PRO TIP: If you sign up for TechToolSupply.com's wholesaler/dealer program (it's free and has instant approval), you can shave a few more bucks off of your purchase!
Magnepull: www.techtoolsu...
Cable Ferret (ON SALE): www.techtoolsu...
Cable Ferret Kit (w/30' glow rod kit): www.techtoolsu...
Other products used in this video (Amazon Affiliate):
Poly line: geni.us/N9E9l
Cable Matters 24 port keystone patch panel: geni.us/OS4T
CAT6 Plenum cable 1000' roll: geni.us/CveABj
CAT6 20-pack RJ45 keystone jack: geni.us/m21uapN
Leviton keystone wall plates: geni.us/Fnme
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[@husbeard]

It's always nice when people have amazing attics with huge catwalks and are easy to work in.. Haha. Mine is a nightmare.

[@raphaelarpa2153]

Tell me about it. Feels like someone's watching me 😂

[@cablenetguy]

Yeah, my attic and crawl spaces are scary in my 110 year old house, for sure. Very unlike his where you could sit down or mount a patch panel/Switch.

[@henryd491]

I am far from a professional installer, but I wanted to share some things I learned from my own DYI: 1) Whenever going between floors, like through the top of a wall, you are penetrating a fireblock and you need (in order to slow potential fires and be within code) you should use fireblock foam around the penetration (of course making very sure you are sure you don't need to pull more cable or adjust the cable you have before breaking out the foam). In terms of the hole you drilled in the video, it will also prevent conditioned air from flowing through the hole you made into the attic space. 2) It is good insurance to run another nylon pull (like Poly Line) with your cable if you ever think you might want to pull another. 3) You can strip back the cable a bit and use the copper wire of the cable to help create a strong connection with the Poly Line without as much tape, which helps for a slimmer profile and easier pull. Best of luck with the rest of your cable install!

[@einfelder8262]

A 3/4"hole in a top plate of a timber building is never going to increase the fire risk. A timber building is a tinder box every day.

[@ernestgalvan9037]

@@einfelder8262 ... Actually, a 3/4” hole can let pass a large amount of heat. Enough heat to char and ignite papers, cardboard, plastic, etc that can be found in attics. It will also allow smoke to penetrate. 33 years in fire department, hundreds of fires as experience, in fire suppression and fire cause and determination.

[@einfelder8262]

@@ernestgalvan9037 I agree. But once the timber frame underneath is already on fire causing the heat and char to pass through the 3/4" hole, the cause is already lost. Or are you seriously telling me the 3/4" hole is the cause of the problem.

[@ernestgalvan9037]

@@einfelder8262 .... well, not “seriously”, but “earnestly”.....😎 A 3/4” hole (called a “void” in our work) can allow a tremendous amount of heat to pass through. This can impact styrofoam-type insulation, or the paper backing on dry-wall, or wiring insulation, among other effects. Fire voids are a leading cause of rapid fire extension, also called “fire getting away”, or as we used to say, “the Dragon getting free”. (Firemen used to say that a fire was a living, breathing animal, a Dragon) Thirty-three years in fire suppression; been there, done that, seen that; I got the scars, along with the t-shirt.👨🏻‍🚒

[@mbl2012]

Glad to see the comments filled with great advice. I would also like to give my two cents. In the beginning of this video you shared a tool to remove the unifi access point. I have been working with that particular brand of AP for a little over 4 years now. To remove them, I have always just used a simple standard zip tie, and have never had any issues getting them off this way. Running cables is my job so I always have a zip tie on me, and saves you a quick buck if you ever lose your tool.

[@jamesford5986]

Like you I am a novice at wiring, so I found your video very enlightening. In all my years in IT (60+) I have helped pull wiring, etc, but I have never had any desire to do more than help. After watching your video I still have little to no desire to do all the wiring.

[@Kamel419]

the cable ferret is a great example of a tool that's basically a useless gimmick when you don't need it, but the most important tool in your arsenal when you do. it's used for figuring out complex situations where what's happening isn't clear (like when you're hitting something and don't know if it's a board or electrical box... important to know the difference)

[@jeSuperfly]

Chris, the chain in the magnepull kit comes in handy when using the roller to pull lines through walls that may have internal obstructions like other wires, pipes, boxes, etc. You can drop it through the entry hole in the top plate and jiggle it down through gaps that may be too tight for the bullet end to get through. ProTip!

[@tompaquette7138]

I was also wondering if a person could string the data line through the chain links and keep the bullet on the end when there are obstructions such as plywood cross members across studs or something stupid, that way you could get the bullet down to the obstruction, then pull the magnet off and onto the chain to pull it down to the obstruction creating slack on the bullet end to carry on pulling the bullet. Never used something like this though.

[@aaa000777]

Two common mistakes you made. Always run one more cable than you think you will need. Cable is cheap and as we get older, running additional cables ends up being more trouble than it is worth. And second, always pull a pull string with your cable to use in the future when even the extra cable isn't enough.

[@CrosstalkSolutions]

Good tips - thanks!

[@Killahkazx]

@@CrosstalkSolutions over pull both length and extra cabling, cables cheap compared to your time. you might also want to pick up a few low voltage boxes for your faceplates. www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-Non-Metallic-Low-Voltage-Old-Work-Bracket-SC100RR/100160916

[@tornadotj2059]

@@Killahkazx I use those or similar on all my installs also.

[@ynschad6205]

@@philopectol935 or for way less: www.harborfreight.com/electrical-box-cutout-saw-for-oscillating-multi-tools-56666.html

[@jeffamack000]

I second Truth Warrier's comments about the string. Always leave a pull string in place, more than sufficient length (about twice needed) and tie a knot around a washer inside the box so it cannot be pulled back into the wall!

[@Detroitbum]

I have a gas furnace in the basement with a flue running up through a large chase to the attic, and finally out the roof. I just opened up the bottom and top of that chase with a hole saw and ran 3” conduit all the way from the basement to the attic, making sure to maintain proper clearance to the flu. From there I dropped a length of poly line down for future pulls and stuffed the ends of the conduit with foam insulation. Now I have home runs for my 3 ceiling mounted access points and all cameras. No need for an industrial switch in the attic since CAT6 is cheap enough to run home runs for everything back to my rack in the basement.

[@lostmatt]

Is it safe to have wires ran that close to the flue, even though its in a conduit? I'd be concerned with the heat.

[@Detroitbum]

@@lostmatt In my chase, the flue is “B” vent with a minimum clearance of 1” to combustibles. I’m much further than that.

[@AdamMuhle]

Be sure to seal any holes you make in the wall top plates (the holes you drilled in the attic) to avoid moisture traveling from the heated space to the unheated space. Otherwise that nice white insulation will be black around the hole in a few years.

[@disorganizedorg]

...also a good idea to slow the spread of fire inside walls.

[@hockeymst55]

Friendly tip, work with gravity. Pull the wire down, not up with the magnet

[@Razzman70]

Thats how all of the other videos I have seen with the Magnepull have shown how to use it. They also were able to go much faster which might potentially help with the issue he was running into with the cable folded over not being able to pass the insulation.

[@Hadriaxit]

Yup. In my younger days I went top to bottom. Bottom to top is a waste of time and you can avoid all this angle bit. Cameras are a waste of time.

[@jpsimmonds-au]

@@Hadriaxit In my younger days I used to do this too, then I realised its a waste of time and after sourcing a good contractor for the job, outsourced the deployment of all the cabling for my projects to them

[@TerryPullen]

Running cable is one of the hardest things I do. Customers never understand why it takes so long and cost so much to move a light switch 6 feet.

[@gorilladisco9108]

😱

[@otas9398]

instead of cutting and patching holles in my walls, i removed the baseboard and cut about 3 inches of drywall out all along th floor. this allowed me room to drill each stud and feed the cable through the studs. a quick screw back up (or drywall mud) for the cut out drywall and then re-installed the baseboard. easy peasy and no drywll patching or painting. nice clean quick installation.

[@BillSW]

great idea! thx!!

[@pyrocentury]

FYI, the wood block that you ran into is probably a fire block that slows fires from running up your wall cavities and into the rest of the house. If you're planning on drilling holes through these blocks, you have to seal the gaps with fire resistant filler

[@Heizenberg32]

My thoughts exactly! I only have experience with commercial cabling, so I wasn't sure.

[@JoshuaBurgess]

It sounded like he just ran into the top plate.

[@nathantaylor680]

@@JoshuaBurgess agreed and he said it was one 3ft left to go. Most residential code calls for blocking on 10ft or taller walls in texas. Top plat it is

[@gfopt]

I was very surprised that he didn’t run into fire blocks in those cavities. They are required where I live and make the process of running wire much harder. I had to cut open the drywall in order to drill through thre fire block and then close up the hole. A big job for me.

[@gwesco]

One of my first jobs in IT was pulling phone and data cable. I grabbed a length of sash bead chain from facilities and used that to drop down into walls and fish out though the mud rings. Worst job is crawling through ceilings full of fiberglass insulation. Even with a full body coverall, you itch for days afterward. That was one job I was happy to see outsourced to a cable install company!

[@chrissyp930]

I used basically all of these same tools working for an ISP doing cable internet installs and home/office networking. Another trick we would use in older houses if we forgot our glow rods was to pop off the old landline ports, tie off the cat cable to the old phone line wiring and use it to help pull the cat cables through the walls then replace the old cover with a new cat style and you're done. Assuming you know where these go, are okay with that location, and don't plan on ever using a landline again since you're removing the wiring LOL definitely saves money on tools you'll probably never use again though if you're in a pinch :)

[@Khylur_Getz]

A few key items to look into. Fire caulk, punch down tool, and single gang low-voltage rings (for stabilizing your wall plates if nothing else). Also, if running poly line (pull string) always double up and strap for future needs like running coax, replacing cables, etc. These simple things will help with future troubles. Keep it up!

[@ScottHammet]

A tip for getting cables from exterior walls over to interior walls, where you can more easily access an empty wall cavity through which to go between floors...pull the baseboards. The drywall sits 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the floor, covered by the baseboard. You can chase the wire along the floor within that cavity beneath the drywall. Then, when you get to the wall cavity you want to use, you can drill up through the edge of the 2x4 base plate and into the cavity. From there, you can move up or down, though you'll need to cut a 1 gang box opening through which to run a drill bit (if going down) or to feed the line up. A mud ring and blanking plate are an easy cover for the access hole if you don't want to patch the drywall.

[@SteveNeighbor]

Great tip! I have used that trick plenty of times. Just make sure you don't put any nails thru the cable when you put the baseboard or quarter-round back!

[@tompaquette7138]

Welcome to a not so fun job an electrician deals with! I like you finished wall mounted plate trick! Quick tip for tying cables onto your pulling device; strip the cable, loop half of the conductors (if they fit) through the pulling device, twist all of the conductor together, fold them back onto the coat of the cable and tape the piss out of the conductors, try to make smooth lips with the tape as you transition between different widths, that way nothing catches on the way through or on the way back if you are struggling.

[@atlantajunglepythons1744]

So useful, and what a cool pair of tools! It’s after a few years now, I’m thinking about putting in CAT 8 cable in the homestead for 20GB networking. Switches with 4 - 5 2.5GB ports and 2 SFP+ ports, managed, w/ POE run $60! What a life, what changes time has wrought….

[@dennisvanlith]

Last couple of videos you uploaded I thought to myself. What an odd looking piece of art on that wall with those colors. And today I figured it out. Man I’m feeling stupid all of a sudden.

[@pbartkus]

I love that art!

[@CableGuyJoeCCTV]

Another great tool I fell in love with as a Cable Guy, now use for CCTV DATA Access Control. Is from Labor Saving Devices called The Wet Noodle less than 20 bucks...small compact easy-to-use and small enough to keep in a tool bag. Magnet small.enough to stick thru a small hole in a door frame and lamp chain you find with its magnetic tip.. very inexpensive too..... yep string first, or cut and tape multiple wires as a torpedo head and staggering them.. OMG. You used a level in the attic no one but a HVAC guy would have noticed if you had eyeballed it , impressed! To dress the wall plates you van use a mud ring that makes the jack on the wall a little firmer....Luckily you didn't have "Fire Stop" blocks of woods across the cavity in the wall... May look at a Cable Ferret... there are few times you'd like to know what the heck you're hitting or what obstruction you got....

[@timb8095]

I used to use a length of chain like an old school Magnapull on the end of some polyline. Drop is down the cavity, the weight of the chain would fall down and around any obstacles and you could fish it out of the bottom hole with a piece of wire etc. The rods were great for suspended ceilings in commercial environments, pop a tile on one side, rods across to the other side to another open tile, easy done. Cabling regs have changed a fair bit since back then, a lot more requirements for segregation etc. Guy I used to work with (back in the 80’s) used his small dog to pull cables through roof spaces.

[@neosmith80]

been using tech tool supply for years... they are good people!

[@bjchandler8937]

Just ordered the Magnepull XP-1000 pull. Seen it before, but motivated to purchase by your "non-professional' demo. I saw a couple of pro demos but the pros seem like skilled magicians anyway so not certain a mere mortal like myself could pull it off. You demo was encouraging. Your discount code worked like a champ. Thanks.

[@rogerf3622]

If you already have RG-6 cable lines in your rooms, using MoCA adapters is a much more viable solution. Recommend you use the low voltage old-work boxes too for a much more professional and easier job rather than making those round holes. The square cuts for the boxes allow you to put you hand in the wall to grab stuff. Also along with the wires you pull, always pull another string for future use.

[@domhamai]

While it’s a good solution for some situations, MoCa is not a replacement for proper network cabling.

[@homehouae2937]

Hey Chris love your videos, keep up the good content. What I’d suggest next time you fish cable up a wall cavity with insulation, stagger the cat6 cables about 3 4 inches apart. Then use some electrical tape and tighten the bundles together working your way down . This will pull a lot smoother.

[@marklyon]

Similar to the Cable Ferret, I purchased a "DEPSTECH Wireless Endoscope" on Amazon a while back when trying to run cable in a finished ceiling that had lots of metal studs supporting it and a ridiculous number of obstructions, including a distribution box for some elevator / building automation controls and several PVC sprinkler lines. I kept getting hung up and didn't want to make new holes since it was a public lobby area where looks were important. The light was super bright and the field of view a bit wider, so I could see further than the image you showed in your wall. This helped me fish the camera over to the hole for the access point and then pull string from there to the places I needed it. The camera is on a 12' semi-rigid, bendable cable. It requires a USB power bank or charger for power. It then connects to your phone with wifi.

[@Bookqueue]

Second that one - I used two of the DEPSTECH to cross a 90 degree pull between two attic spaces where one was not physically accessible. The bright light and camera on both poles made it possible/not-easy to find each other. I could not have done that pull with the size of the Ferret.

[@thezfunk]

Bonus is you can check yourself for ass cancer. Save an expensive trip to the doctor.

[@spasmonaut10]

@@thezfunk someone had to bring it up

[@thezfunk]

@@spasmonaut10 it is funny I found it in the comments because I have a friend who just bought one to use it on himself. He is a strange duck.

[@spasmonaut10]

@@thezfunk I bet he's hard to buy gifts for.

[@Skunny]

They make flexible drill bits that attach to a standard drill that are able to go deep into wall cavities and drill into the bottom or top plate if you ever wanted to go that route

[@cutrara7]

i came here to make this same comment. 48" flex bit from harbor freight, it has a hole that you can attach the cable or pull string

[@zadekeys2194]

DIY magnet puller - fishing line + small & heavy metal object (test with a magnet). Use electrical tape to attach fish line to end if cables & drop it down. If it gets stuck, try drop it again, or use a magnet (ie from an old hard drive).

[@AvanCade]

American house walls. You guys have it so easy and so much room to work with.

[@jbdragon3295]

The Magna puller is a great tool. I have one myself. I wired my house with cat 6 and have a 48 port switch. Not fully used, but I needed more than 24. So I ran a lot of cable and have multi keystones ports all over I can plug into. My attic is tiny. I have a low slope roof. I did all my wire running under my house. That included coax for the new antenna I mounted being a cable cutter. Wires for the rear surround speakers in the family room. Mostly done myself. My 12U network rack is mounted up high in my small closet in the middle of my house. It was a lot of work. A lot of crawling under my house, getting out to pull wires up and then back under again over and overt!!!. Once all the work is done, is great. In the future, those cat6 cables should be able to handle 10 gigabit just fine.

[@AJaytheCEO]

I literally just finished pulling cables all this week for a church in a crawlspace. I was going to get the magnepull but wanted to see it in action first. Thanks

[@monnierobinson9210]

One point - always mount switches with the ports pointing to the side or down. This will minimize garbage/dust getting into any open ports.

[@jasonboles1526]

also water, in the off-chance your roof leaks directly above the switch.

[@teacherrussell5206]

I don't know what I love more. The Run CMD shirt, or the TIA 568B painting in the background. Beautiful.

[@CurtisDrew1]

I use poly string trimmer line for pull lines. It diesn't fray out or hang up on nails, splinters or cracks in the inner wall sheet rock or framing. And will take a heck of a beating before breaking. I've even used string trimmer line to fish fires trough firewalls in my vehicles when I want to run a new wire for something. A big zip tie with the string trimmer line pushed into the zip tie catch and you've got a nice stiff, non conductive pull system.

[@suzylarry1]

I have done this stuff for years , I understood all your directions and home office background teaching. Good job.!

[@lordcarnorjax8599]

Interesting video. Where I live in Australia, houses are mostly constructed out of brick, single brick internal walls and double brick walls on the exterior. So to run cables in existing built houses you tend to get stuck running cables through the external wall cavities, unless you want to create a hell of mess by using a grinder to cut a channel into an existing wall. I doubt a magnet would work well through bricks. For new builds conduits are the way to go, when we fully renovated our house a few years back I had installed 20 CAT6 runs installed through out the house and all in conduits, which has already proved useful in a couple of instances to run a extra cable. It's also illegal to terminate you own cabling if you aren't certified for some stupid reason in Australia now. Another recommended tool is a cable tester that can tested the quality of the mechs and terminations. Unfortunately these tools can be quite expensive depending on the tests. Certification testers are really expensive while quantifying testers are less expensive but generally are good enough to do the job.

[@domhamai]

A simple test tool, that just confirms each pair is connected properly costs next to nothing.

[@launebaer86]

For someone from Europe (Germany) it's just funny to watch how these US paper houses are built. :D

[@jjjacer]

you should see how manufactured homes are built in the US, they are basically paper houses (i live in one so i know some of the pains, like walls that are not drywall but basically a cardboard material, all the drywall/wallboards are stapled to the framing, same with the cabinets, my house also had no inner vapor barrier and no outer house wrap, basically just a faux shiplap sheeting - although mine also had vinyl siding ontop of that. its drafty, not great in summer and winter, oh and as it was built in 1985 almost all the pipes are polybutylene so im looking forward to having a pipe break down the line. ) although i will say wiring is easy i can get under the building and the outer walls when you drill through the sill plate it has nothing underneath.

[@GSPirosaki]

Do I hear the Polizei banging on your door? You better get on the ground.

[@Etacovda63]

Word to the wise - the right sized zip tie end is perfect for removing unifi aps

[@ondamax]

I use paper clips to remove them, I use the smaller curved side of the paper I just make sure to squeeze the small side of the clip with pliers to fit the notch on the AP.

[@thedayowl]

Yes, Zip ties are perfect tools for this purpose! Have used them for years. Super easy to use and they're much easier to replace if you lose them.

[@TheJaredC01]

I used the Magnepull (and Magnespot) for years as an installer. The Magnepull's not always super handy (most of the time fiberglass rods are quicker and work just as well), but when you DO need it, it's invaluable. As for the Magnespot, if you ever have a need to put a hole in exactly the right spot on the inside, from the outside, the Magnespot is awesome. It uses a vibration frequency on a transmitter that you put inside where you want the hole (it uses a push pin), and you take the locator outside to find the location. It will give you a 4-point alignment, right down to the hole in the middle of the locator, where you can mark it. It also works when going through floors, but I've personally not had much need when drilling through floors (usually have an idea of where the hole will be before drilling, since I can see both sides).

[@TheJaredC01]

(adding comments as I'm watching) Also, you could have used the included chain instead of the poly line if it's a one-off line pull, which could have saved you some time of running to the hardware store. For drilling up through the ceiling (and down through the floor from a jack location), the easiest way is to use a flex bit up (or down) through the wall, though when doing that, you don't have a way to add any fire block to the hole in most cases. If a house is balloon framed, it's a non-issue, otherwise it's something to be considered.

[@Blackdog4818]

The idea of adding an Ethernet cord through the attic when it's 93 degrees out, sounds like a recipe for heat stroke...lol.

[@StephanSwinford]

For the cable runs in your attic, look at getting J-hooks. Should help keep the cables organized and out of the insulation in case you need to trace anything later.

[@josephaleba9442]

Use the drop chain for hollow walls, then use the magnet to get the chain to the cut-out. When attaching your cable to pull I like to cut back about 6 inches of insulation, the run 2 pair through the pull in one direction and two in the other direction twist tight and tape with a smooth head, if pulling two cables, tape the 2nd cable securely about 12 inches back with about 6 inches of tape again with as smooth and pointed a head as you can to avoid getting the cable hung up.

[@aschnaub1]

1.)The correct keystone crimper or knockdown tool. 2.) Use a LV box instead of just a hole in the wall when running wall plates. They make a tool that goes on a vibratory tool that is an outline of an electrical/LV box. Literally cuts it in 10 seconds. Done.

[@adanhernandez7850]

Not sure if you’ve realized by now, but the chain that’s included in the maganapull kit is meant to serve the purpose of the Polly line you used.

[@MHamrick86]

Oh man this breathed new life and hope into a project I've been avoiding. Thanks for sharing your process and the tools

[@TerryPullen]

Here is my favorite cable running tip. Let's say you want to find a first floor wall from a basement. Chuck a stiff piece of wire (close hanger or piano wire) into your drill and drill down into the basement at the intersection of the wall and baseboard. The wire should go behind the baseboard and in front of the wall. Go into the basement and find the end of the wire and just figure out where the center of the wall is from there. The hole the wire leaves is small enough that all you need is a dab of caulk or spackle to cover it. The wire should be 18 to 24 inches long and put a chisel tip on it so it will cut through wood. Be patent it is not a great drill but it will work. Obviously, this works between any two floors, just drill in the appropriate direction. ;)

[@cablenetguy]

Tech tip: if you are doing a high end installation and you want to save yourself some time, install flexible conduit in the walls to protect the cable and for multiple runs. Never push up, always push down from the attic. Much easier that way.

[@Mouse51180]

I love my Magnapull. As stated below...I find it works better pulling cable down the wall instead of up. As for the chain...I use this to help pull cable through my office building that has metal studs.

[@noferblatz]

Unless I'm mistaken, it's not a 4x4. The top plate is typically two 2x4s on top of each other. I used to be an electrician, and did a lot of this wall fishing. At the time, we used what's called a "fish tape", which is a piece of thin steel rolled into a coil. It unrolls as you pull it off the roll. Any home improvement store will have such a thing.

[@An0maly6_9]

I use Magnapull. Awesome wall fish tools. They also have locators too.

[@nightbladexxx]

Yes, best things since sliced bread

[@bodhiench]

I love my Magnapull.

[@joshm5514]

This came just in time...closing on my first house tomorrow...one of the first things I want to do is run cable to most of the rooms and to some security cameras.

[@s.mirandacooper4584]

A piece of advice, always run an extra wire. Wire is cheap enough and it’s so worth it in the event you someday need it.

[@spasmonaut10]

I swear Chris is eavesdropping on me when he puts these videos together. One after the other he's posting content that I'm specifically seeking out. Started with the series on the G4 cameras, then the BeaconHD, and I forget what else.

[@FranklynGrullon]

That’s what the chain was for. Instead of using the poli-line you would have attached the chain directly to the magnet. That plug and coax was probably there for a mounted TV previously. They have 5ft long drill bits that are skinny and thin too to drill towards the attic. Nice video.

[@FinderX]

That Ferret tool will be perfect gift for the WORST SERVER ROOM contest participants. They need something like that to find that damn patch cord.

[@fredrikandersson7662]

I love my Magnepull. I also use a Magnespot to be able to know where I shall drill.

[@z185284]

Learned more from this video than any tutorial video because he made the same mistakes everyone does the first time Side note: making these mistakes at home is a lot less embarrassing than in a McDonalds in front of electricians

[@z185284]

Second note: Where’s the old work LV box? He screwed into the wall!

[@MikeHarris1984]

I like your Ethernet color code painting on the wall there... I want to get me one, just so when people come over, you will know who is a networking nerd by who comments on it, LOL.

[@MatthewMorseCA]

Having a basic understanding of residential house construction will go a long way! Having a Cable Ferret would be a huge help when doing any kind of renovation or old work in-wall wire runs where you may not know what obstacles lie in your path. Some construction will not have a clear interior wall cavity to work with. Many times you will have bracing or fireblocks installed where prior electrical lines are run, or in older construction where diagonal crossing support struts or beam studs are used to reinforce a wall. These are notorious for preventing a true cable pull, but with that Ferret cam you could identify what may not be fully picked up by many stud finders. It's also good to identify if any other high voltage electrical or plumbing lines might be in the path or cross your path you wish to chase your low-voltage runs. It's important to not run your data cables near your high-voltage electrical if at all possible!

[@wbhad83]

It’s important to use fire rated foam to fill that hole in the attic 2x4!

[@xXLordZyloXx]

Its code exactly anything thru the top and bottom plate fire block foam

[@ovI0i17Hpl]

I have something similar to the cable ferret, and the light doesn't show that well either. But I have found if i use a battery powered LED "shop light", I can stick that in the cavity first to illuminate it and then try the camera I can see everything clearly. Even has the option to take a picture that way I can plan out my run a little easier, or save the picture to diagram the inside of my walls for future reference.

[@Hindelaufen]

Looking from Europe at your walls, isolation snow and strange wall cavities. And I can only think: Wow. Four years ago I needed to pull approximately 40 feet of CAT6 cable from the garage to the top of the attic. There is a empty tube -purposely installed there for this exact reason- going all the way up. What I did is attaching a small cotton piece to a very light thread and used the vacuum cleaner at the other end to suck the thread all the way through. Then attached a much stronger rope to the tread and pulled it up through the tube. Once done, connect the CAT6 cable to the rope and make sure you cover the cable with talkpowder (the powder sportsmen use to cover their hands with when pulling weights) and just pull the rope from above. Did it alone and took me about an hour. Nice vid.

[@peterg.8245]

They make cable pulling lube... The bucket looks like you’ve been indecent with an elephant but when you need to run 60ft of 30mm cable down a 1.5” steel conduit from a GOST motor starter to a blower motor. You’ll appreciate it!!! ...I started out in a panel shop for environmental combustion company and we sold a vapor recovery skid in Russia and spent a long 80hr week running all the cables before it was shipped.

[@Hindelaufen]

@@peterg.8245 yeah I know there is lube available on the market. But how does that look like after being 15 years in a tube? Does it dry out and act like cement so you'll never get the cable out? Talkpowder will not do that.

[@mnelson10000]

The use case for the Cable Ferret is definitely sending the sticks through the plenum area above a drop ceiling. With that bad boy you could probably guide the sticks 20 or 30 foot at a pass! Wish that was a thing back in my old cabling days 20 years ago...

[@erk_0483]

Instead of the cable ferret you could also just use a endoscope, but the Magnepull seems VERY usefull.

[@ondamax]

I have not read all the posts, but from what I can see on the video and the first try to drop the cable from the attic, I would have used the existing phone or coax cable to make that run. You can cut the head on the coax and tape your twine chaser cable to it and then pull up from the attic or you can cut the coax or phone cable at the attic and pull down a twine chaser to the room below. The only issue you may have is that the hole is a bit small for pulling 2 cables through, I always run 2 twines on the first run in case I lose or break one. That way I don't have to start over and i have a second one for future use.

[@richardcarver5356]

I've used a 20" piece of steel chain for years to pull thermostat wires, cat five. I used a really strong magnetic wand to grad the chain to pull it.

[@thezfunk]

Toilet chain works great for that.

[@scottbehr6296]

Gadgets are fun.....but save your money...just use a piece of jet line and an 8 inch piece of light chain...slides down the wall even with insulation...Use a "wall caddy" instead of drilling a hole.

[@freespirit1975]

I have one piece of advice for anyone building a house. Take profuse pictures of the building process, especially EVERYTHING before the sheet rock goes up. Get shots of all the walls before the drywall but after the plumbing and electrical and coax is installed (which installing coax is probably obsolete now, so call it ethernet if being installed). You have no idea how helpfut it is to know where a horizontal blocking board between studs exists for future wire pulling. Also, knowing exactly where the pipes are will help if there is a leak. Also knowing the best place to cut through the wall to access the bathtub and shower drains to check for termite ingress. Also take pictures of the plumbing laid out before the slab is poured may definitly help in the future.

[@MactelecomNetworks]

Great video Chris. Always fun running cabling through your home

[@itavero]

I usually have two boxes/reels of cable, if I want to pull two cables. That way you don't have to guess the center. More importantly I just tie all the conductors to whatever I'm using to pull the cables, which is way stronger then tape in my opinion. It's also less thick than bending the cable, which makes it easier to pull it through stuff.

[@disorganizedorg]

Yeah, that "bend it in half" idea was nice in theory but has the flaw of thickness. OK inside a clear vertical un-insulated run though.

[@TheNightstalker80]

lol I did something like that a last year but without any tools ;-) Just put the cable in the top hole and pushed it down between the drywall and the insulation. Worked first try! It really depends on the Inulation job behind the wall, if it's made clean and from a single piece as it should be, you won't have any trouble getting the cable through. Also, gravity is your friend hehe. Another GREAT tipp, get some help, pulling cables alone is never a good idea. One should pull while the other pushes the cable in. One thing you should definitely stop doing is using standard brick/concrete wall dowels in dry walls! I mean, it will work sometimes for tiny stuff but they usually don't work well and can really damage your drywall, especially while driving the screws in/our!. I know there are some "universal" dowels out there but I do not like them. Depending on the weight / stress you want to apply you can get various types of drywall dowels, most are easy to use and work really well and, most of the low stress/weight drywall dowels can be removed and even reused.

[@TheGuitarsforme]

the switch in the attic should be hung switch ports up side down or sideways for dust or to protect from water.

[@CrosstalkSolutions]

I have caps in the unused ports.

[@ShredGarage]

I used to fish lines pretty frequently.. I bought a magnapull and used it like 2 times.. then sold it. Cheap glow rods or a fish tape just so much easier.

[@mrchow3233]

Magnapull comes in handy if you come across insulation. Or, sometimes if you drop a drill bit or something, it comes in handy for that as well.

[@junkman4126]

You know when drilling holes in a building frame there are building codes that you must follow. In non-load-bearing walls, you are allowed to cut bigger notches or drill bigger holes than in a load-bearing wall. When running cable, electrical wires or pipes and notching or boring studs is required you must keep the structure strong and remain within the electrician and plumbing building code. It is not just about, oh this is a simple path I will just drill here and think nothing of it, frame integrity is very important to consider when running any pipes and wires.

[@SteveNeighbor]

Sing it, brother! A good buddy of mine is a firefighter, and will go on forever about the evils of balloon construction and the things homeowners do that make it worse.

[@junkman4126]

@@SteveNeighbor Yeah those old houses go up in flames and collapse real quick. Although I do like the concept of balloon framing so easy and lightweight.

[@zadekeys2194]

Get a cable dispenser. You can make one with a beer crate & circular tubing / trunking. This makes running multiple runs fast and simple for 1 person. You can also use a decent Rc car to pull cable off of the cable dispenser faster than you can walk in a ceiling. A drone could also be used in larger spaces

[@benjaminreinhardt259]

To run cables into the attic - Klien makes a 6' long flex drill bit (Google 'klien long fishing drill bit'). You cut the hole in your sheetrock for the jack and then fish the drill bit up into (or down into) the wall and drill through the top plate (or bottom plate). You then go to the attic (or crawlspace) and the bit has an eyelet on the end of it to tie off your wires. Go back into the room and pull the drill bit back in with your wires on it.

[@Cleofizoid]

Long flexible drill bits are a thing. This allows you to drill up the wall and thru the wall top plate. You then attach your pull string to the drill bit poking up thru the top plate, yank your bit down and viola. I'm purty sure Tech Tool Supply has them.

[@scott7724]

just be careful you dont drill through your roof

[@Cleofizoid]

@@scott7724 you ain't lying, or if you have a spotter/helper in the attic, make sure he has steel sole shoes hehehe

[@Treddian]

It's triggering me that you didn't use either mud rings or "old-work" boxes.

[@the_kombinator]

I'm debating using them myself - I don't see anything wrong with hole sawing it out and then using some anchors (I have a shit ton around here) to mate the wall plate to the drywall.

[@Treddian]

@@the_kombinator When I'm planning additional new runs to an existing plate, finding a drilled hole instead of a box is a bit like opening the blinds in a hotel room to find a brick wall outside. It's one of those "awwww" moments.

[@the_kombinator]

@@Treddian I'm running two drops to every plate (4 drops in my office) - I'll never need more unless I suddenly decide to mine bitcoin. But maybe you're right - at least in the lower floors I'll use them.

[@TwinTailTerror]

What is the best way to run cable from outside to inside it prolly will be spf+ or ++40gbs fiber vs cat im new to fiber normally i just drill hole shove fill this is a very wet area of organ snow rain and its going to a very costly server room hope u reply treddian

[@tompaquette7138]

It's not an issue with low voltage systems, but it isnt the recommended method. Smaller hole to patch if he regrets making it. However the 3d printed boxes for 120v systems is a big nono.

[@James_Knott]

You drop the chain down inside walls to where you have cut a hole for a wall plate. & mud ring. You can also just buy some "dog chain" for the same purpose. Hopefully, those sticks glow in the dark. It makes things a lot easier when working in dark areas, to see where you're pushing them. When using that magnapull, try pulling down the wall, instead of up. Let gravity help you. You won't have to worry about losing the shuttle, should it separate from the roller. That is not the way to mount a wall plate. Use a mud ring and cut a rectangular hole to fit. Mount the mud ring and then the wall plate too the mud ring. While your switch appears to have covers over the connectors, it's generally not a good idea to wall mount equipment with the connectors facing up. They will collect a lot of dust. When you're done pulling the cable, leave the string in place. It may come in handy later.

[@questionablecommands9423]

Oooh. Timely video is timely. I recently moved into a place in Hillsboro and I'm getting ready to supplement the existing cat5e with cat6 runs.

[@billdegener8105]

You need a "bell hangar" drill bit. You drill from your opening near top of wall and through the wall plate. I have a 3' and 6'. A must have tool for running security wire.

[@lloydmorrison5979]

I remember working for San Diego Alarm and in a very old building, there were Tube & Knob wires (which were bare). I used my Simpson meter to test the wires, and to my surprise the wires were HOT with live 120 volts! 10 years later, when I was an E.M.T., We had to rescue a telephone repairman who was electrocuted the same way by brushing against a hot wire. We tried in vane to save the man, but with sweat, and salt making a perfect conductor, It stopped his heart instantly! PLEASE be careful in the attic, and cut the power to the building if you are not sure!

[@timothymielke1558]

Use a ship auger bit it works better than spade bit. Why not use low voltage rings it work better than drilling a hole in the wall plus you have more space. Doesn't cat 6 have a bend radius that you have to be careful of. Could damage cable pairs. Also did you use saddles in the attic? Or did you use electrical staples.

[@UltimateTechHub]

Ruckus APs have the same issue. You have to use a paperclip to release the AP from the bracket. I installed a Netgear AX630 and it just twists off and on.

[@johnlange8729]

Small point, but I would finish off the run with a low voltage frame for your CAT6 jack. The dry wall and screw will pull right out with a good tug on the cable plugged in to the CAT6 jack. Much more professional than just drilling a hole. And did that end up level? And in the attic, I would run the cable high rather than low. This makes it much less likely to be cut or stepped on/tripped over. Or use J hooks, rings, EMT conduit, or I've even seen PVC rain gutters.

[@disorganizedorg]

Always leave double length of the poly line parallel to any installation so that you can later run additional cables between those points. Make it that long so that you can pull the later cables from either end of the run. Don't use these methods for electrical wiring which should be stapled to the studs at intervals. A simple version of the pull rods that I've used for runs up to 8' is essentially free. I'm a landlord and often find myself replacing minioblinds in my units I save the rods used to control the slats and use bits of dowel join them as needed, with a bit of electrical tape to keep them from pulling apart. They seem to have a proper flexibility. Most of these tools can be improvised, which may be the better option for occasional occasional use.

[@wmnapier]

You use the chain to drop in walls that have steel studs, the plumb bob torpedo looking thing with the cable on it is also magnetic. So if you drop the torpedo down a metal stud wall it will stick and hang up on the steel studs, the chain is not magnetic so if you drop it down in a steel studded wall the outer roller magnet will grab the chain and pull it down to your wall opening without hanging up. I have one and man it is a life saver.

[@jabbe30]

Just a tip. Make a cabinet for your switch in the attic. Install some ventilation on the cabinet for cooling. (got help to translate with google)

[@mikeyfoofoo]

When pulling the poly line, attach the cat6 WITHOUT cutting the line. When the pull is done, you still have poly in the wall. bundle the extra and place it in the cavity. Next time you need a wire you will thank yourself. This line can be used indefinitely for the same run since you have enough length to go back and forth.

[@stonecrow00]

pulling cable with the magnepull or with a rod - Do Not Bend the Cable LOL you want a nice smooth taper after you use the electrical tape to attach them. Start the tape at the tail of the rod and wrap towards the head until the cables are covered + 2 - 3 more wraps. 6 good inches cable should be enough for a good connection like this. Henry D has it right in his comment, add in some poly line for future pulls.

[@texastyrannyresponseteam794]

FYI, put you floor boxes at the same height as your electrical boxes.. ~12" or so from the floor is the norm.. nothing looks worse than a bunch of boxes all over at different levels.. unless of course you are putting a device at a specific level.. like an access point or camera.. etc.. and instead of terminating everything in the attic, make home runs to an upstairs closet.. run a dedicated circuit for the power.. and put the equipment in a wall mounter rack above the shelf.. if you want, run fiber or 10g copper patch between switches on each floor.. an easy way to get between floors is through the return air duct.. just make sure you use plenum rated cable and seal it good at each end.. you can also run cable outside and up to the soffit if you absolutely have to have a drop on the outer walls and don't want to mess with fishing.. hide the cable behind trim or along siding, if you have it.. paint to match.. I've matched paint to brick or grout/mortar when i had no other choice.. if outside is not an option, you can cut holes where you need in the drywall.. goes for anywhere you get a difficult drop that's kicking your ass.. it's quicker and cheaper to repair drywall holes than fight a drop for hours.. anyone who has pulled cable in old construction where there's been additions or buildings that's been modified and added onto over the years with different construction materials and methods know what i mean.. i have a nightmare client.. 70 year old cinder block building that's been added on to using temporary buildings, standard wood construction, metal and brick.. no less than 14 times over the years.. every couple times they put a roof over the whole thing.. there are 10 attics, some inaccessible at all.. 6 roofs at various layers, plus the temp building roofs.. a combination of suspended ceiling, drywall, solid wood.. etc.. it's an 11,000 sqft nightmare.. i put 32 cameras and a 24 port data network in it in 2008.. said then i would never do it again.. well, last year they called and begged me to come upgrade them.. 4 separate companies had taken the job and quit the first day.. they agreed to pay whatever it took.. so, i put a 36 phone VoIP system in / 48 data drops / 32 new IP cameras to replace the analog ones and a mesh WiFi to cover the entire place.. all to a new server room on the complete other end of the building.. i charged them a fortune for it tho.. now it's official, i will never do it again..

[@Ashworth-Media]

It is always easier to do a job with the right tools, always plan to install more cable than you need to future proof your house, as when corvid happen and we need to work from home we repurposed a spare bedroom into a another home office by using the spare cable left in the wall some years earlier.

[@TerryPullen]

There are a few suggestions on this thread to use fire block foam to fill holes drilled in sill plates. That's such a great idea that it is required by code. But sometimes you need to be able to open the hole again so try electrical putty or duct seal. It acts as a fire and air stop and is easily removable. Also, it's putty, you can find lots of uses for it including as a toy.

[@TheBrightPixel]

I'm super jealous of you Americans with your stick frame and drywall houses. Here in Europe we're dealing with concrete block walls on a good day and hundreds of years old, heritage listed, stone walls on a bad day. Most of our retrofit jobs involve grinding wall chases and cement patching :(

[@TheBrightPixel]

@Frank Silvers Because we don't have baseboards when you have a stone floor and a stone wall and even if we did, we don't mount TV's and access points on the floor. We do everything on the roof as here in Spain all the roofing is flat, then drill down or across from the exterior.

[@TheBrightPixel]

@Frank Silvers I don't understand the question? Typical construction is rendered block wall going to stone floor. There is no baseboard. We mount all access points on the ceiling as standard. Never mounted one on a floor. TV's are usually in the middle of a wall. Not on the floor. Our clients would not accept visible cabling going up to the TV. All our 'home network' CAT6 wiring is typically run externally through conduit on the flat concrete roof, then penetrations are made to the interior where needed. Lookup 'Blakstad Villa interior' on google images and you will see our typical construction style that we deal with daily.

[@smileymattj]

- Don't bend a cable in two and try to fish/pull it. This is what caused all your attempts at your first run to fail. Even with the insulation that was a very basic and very short pull. Pretty much any method should be successful on that run. It was the bend getting caught making it more difficult. Have to fresh cut ends and tape them to your rod, fish tape, magna pull, etc.. - Also make sure you tape things in a slim and tapered fashion. Don't over tape. Too much tape will be too bulky. And keep wires straight and ends staggered. Don't have them unnecessary overlapping each other creating bulges. Also pulling multiple cables, you don't have to tape all the wires to your pulling tool. Usually the pulling tool is much thicker than the wires themselves. Come back 1-2ft where you just got the wire itself and tape on your 2nd, and remaining wires. It will pull so much better without a big bulky bunch right at the end of your pulling tools. - When dealing with insulation. Your rod, fish tape, flex drill bit or any other stiff tool wants to stay straight. So inserting it into the wall cavity it's going to be in a bind. If there is insulation, you can't make that 90 degree bend to be exactly between the sheetrock wall facing you and insulation. Pop your tool through the insulation and use the exterior wall or sheetrock on the other side the wall as a guide. If you can get it in the corner so you can feel it smoothly slide up or down the stud. Trying to go in-between the sheetrock and insulation will always bow out and send you right in the middle of the insulation. And you can only push through so much insulation till it eventually bunches up and doesn't let you go any further. But if you let the tool go into the angle it wants to and slight up a flat surface it will be much easier. - Also don't mount your faceplates so low to the ground. Mount them same height as electrical boxes 18" or whatever code is in your area. That foot or so off the floor makes a big difference than 4" off the floor trying to fish/pull cables. - The poly lines main purpose is to be left in the wall/conduit for future pulls. You should rarely ever need it to assist in a new pull. If you want to be efficient and cost effective. - The board you used in the attic isn't plywood. That's OSB. Next time, don't use OSB for your safety. Might have been ok once, and for a short distance. But if you keep using that board over and over, it will eventually give out and you don't want to fall through sheetrock that's not a fun day. OSB is not safe to use as a work platform surface, use plywood instead. If all you got is the OSB, place two 2x4s down first to support the OSB. - You should use a low voltage single gang box instead of the sheetrock anchors. About the same cost, box lasts longer if you take it out several times to run more cables. And much easier to get level and straight. Also the hole is big enough to get your hand through and grab if needed. (Before mounting the box to the sheetrock.) I can get half a forearm into a single gang hole, but I know that will differ from person to person. Insulation is not as bad if you can get your hand in the wall and feel around. I recommend gloves if you've got to go into insulated walls. - Use a proper punch down tool to terminate wires to keystone jacks. Using pliers and the covers is not correct. The plastic covers aren't strong enough, and can lead to an unsuccessful punch. They are only meant to keep the wires from coming out if snagged on. Also a proper punch down will cut for you as well. Cutting with scissors leaves excess that shouldn't be there.

[@TerryPullen]

The jack chain falls almost like water. If you drop it through a hole it has enough weight to pull itself straight down, very handy.

[@FoolOfATuque]

The Magnepull tool is awesome. They also sell a smaller leader for tighter bends. I have both of them for mine.

[@VinchiStudios]

I can't believe I've been taking IT advice from a guy who terminates keystones with a pair of pliers lol. Definitely going to get that mag-pull though. Fish rods are such a pain with insulated walls

[@Heizenberg32]

If you are joking, please disregard. That is a compression tool for terminating RJ45 jacks. They crimp down all 8 wires at once. They can potentially be a huge time saver for big installs. A downside is that they only work with certain jacks.

[@rjgrissom]

@@Heizenberg32 I slowed the video down multiple times to see it. Those were pliers.

[@Heizenberg32]

@@rjgrissom But... how would that even work?

[@rjgrissom]

@@Heizenberg32 It shouldn't. There must be something we are missing that was clipped from the video or. punchless keystones? If such a thing exists.

[@OHWhatsNext]

he put the jack covers on, which have fingers that PUSH them down to make contact. although you should really use a punch tool, or the little plastic punch tool they give you with the jacks.

[@OLAScape_]

Watching him bare hand the insulation got me itching.

[@andrew7720]

Damn im jealous of wooden/drywall homes. I line in a concrete/brick building. There is not way to run new cables especially between floors. Unless im missing something, i'd have to bury new conduits in the wall. That means creating the chanell for the conduit, install it, cover the gap and paint again the wall. The conduits for the electrical cables of the plumbing are set in place when the building in made.

[@Harrypm3]

When he didn’t put a mud ring in the hole that he drilled actually broke me.

[@georgebush6002]

At least he installed wall anchors instead of screwing directly into drywall.

[@Harrypm3]

George Bush why even install them if your not gonna do it right in the first place hahahahaha

[@georgebush6002]

@@Harrypm3 IDK, I would give this solution a C+ or maybe even a B.

[@jong2359]

What non-electrician home owner is using mud rings for a home cable run? Not very many is the correct answer.

[@Harrypm3]

Jon G but he does client installs if you have watched any of his other videos so...