CBX 1000 Alternator clutch upgrade

[@robertborchert932]

This is a very specific issue indeed! It has a simple genesis, in that the CBX can increase revolutions at a ridiculous rate. Allowing the alternator to slip during these transitions is a need best suited to racing conditions. Riding my two CBXs back in the day, rapid shifts were the order of the day in the twisties. I pulled the alternator in the course of service, at low miles, and discovered several things. Most important, the steel clutch was significantly scored, and my first thought? Yes, where did those wee bits go? I had to split the cases on my 82 due to a hydraulic lock issue, and with that dual oil pump available, of course I took her apart for examination. Pitting in the impeller gears. Bingo, I knew the source. My solution was to be kind on those throttle transients. My thought at the time was to properly fit the floating disc with a bonded friction material on its face. Mind you, this was back in 1984! This has worked for wet clutches very well since Moses was still in office. This alternator, a real automotive design with a DC field coil / rotor, is different from the norm, in that it has a radial armature / commutator, with two concentric sweeps of copper contact for the armature. As such, the brushes wear more rapidly. Care to guess why Honda fitted a voltmeter in the center of the cluster?

[@kimmer6]

I got tired of the alternator chirp on my 1979 CBX and did something similar in the 1990's. I machined both friction faces such that a piece of free floating friction material of smaller diameter would be captured by the flange that I left on the drive faces. The other mistake that I saw on friend's CBX's was that the fiber washer under the spring had gone missing and that many used springs were considerably shorter than a new one. The heat fatigued them. I bought my 1979 CBX in 1992 with a hole in the cases where a rod went through. It was an early engine that had straight case studs unlike the ''rifled'' ones that followed. There were 2 other bent connecting rods in the engine as well. I presume that the engine had ''hydrauliced'' from fuel overflow while on the side stand. I found another troubled engine and managed to assemble one good running engine from the 2 broken ones. This was my very first motorcycle engine overhaul. It's definitely not a beginner's engine. The bike got an 1100F Honda front end, wheels, brakes and swing arm. I also added the 1100F bikini fairing. It started out as a terrible mess and became a reliable bike. I put on many miles on it in California, Nevada and Oregon with the CBX Club. Your alternator slip clutch is very elegant and looks to be a better trouble free design. Great job!

[@MVW54]

In response to your question "alternator slip clutch". In 1978 and 79 ... in Belgium (Circuit Jules Tacheny à Mettet and Circuit Nivelles-Baulers) I did some Castrol races with the CBX 1000, XS 1100, GS 1000 etc. All bikes were mandatory street productions motorcycles for the races , sometimes 4 hours and sometimes 6 hours races. Sort of like endurance competitions, short term! Together with Honda technical personnel involved in the CBX project (end of 1979). The only reason for the use of this alternator slip clutch = for temporarily more engine pulling power, the alternator does not rotate at the same time during heavy acceleration. This was certainly one of the reasons that the CBX accelerated faster after every corner than any other bike at the time ... it's not just weight that counts, especially on a dry road surface the CBX 1000 was unbeatable in those times.

[@theoriginalmungaman]

Except the KZ1300 which destroys the CBX in every way.

[@MVW54]

@@theoriginalmungaman Indeed the Z1300 has better performance, only in my racing days of Mettet (1978) there was no Z1300!!! I bought a Z1300/A3 in 1982 that I still own. I also have another Z1300-DFI 1985 (130hp) Don't worry, I know the difference between a CBX 1000/Z from 1978... especially this bike is still in my possession. 👍

[@karlvanboxel561]

It’s really a torque limiter I guess my FZ 750 has the alt behind the cylinders the only clutch it has is a starter clutch …. Yes I know poxy place to put that so I rekitted mine with new springs ( they shorten) plungers and rollers

[@SERGIO-fx2bg]

Good morning, I definitely have the knowledge and tools to do the job, can you tell me the price of the glue and the friction disc.

[@bigginger6531]

Hi thanks this is a great video I was wondering where I could get hold of the clutch plate and glue I have the skills and equipment to do the repair any help would be appreciated thank you

[@lornetontegode6986]

I'm a new CBX owner and I'm still figuring out all of its idiosyncrasies. Why does it require a slip clutch here when all other bikes drive the alternator directly off the crank end? Did they determine that the mass of the alternator wasn't good for the Hy-Vo chain? Or maybe the pulsing effect of the windings? There are lots of bikes that can rev harder and quicker than the CBX and drive off the crank directly so I'm sort of curious.

[@gilbertreeves2084]

Did you-tube stop the comments on your carb overflow tubes video.? i have never heard of overflow tubes (brass) cracking like this and cant understand why they would crack.If you know, elucidate me. ..Cheers..!

[@nalgarin]

Hi, what material are this pads made ?

[@massimofigna8721]

Hi, This is extremely helpful as i’m almost finished my CBX restoring. Where i can find the friction plate, please?

[@thesupersportshedltd]

Hi Massimo, thank you for your interest. If you email me at [e-mail] I can give you pricing and details, I have product immediately available but currently you would have to return your clutch plates to the UK to get them upgraded, unless you have access to the skills and a lathe to undertake the instructional video that you have seen.

[@theoriginalmungaman]

So all you did was disable the clutch from working. A much easier and less time consuming method would be to drill three holes through both plates and install dowel pins.

[@ralf-michaelsander6993]

Hi, I would also like to implement this solution on my ProLink alternator and have a few questions about it, but they do not go through to the email address given.