Century Repulsion-Start Induction Antique Electric Motor - Troubleshooting No-Start Humming...

[@builtbydylan8315]

Century motors are state of the art. I have a late model cast iron 5 speed fan with the plain casting and it runs like a dream

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

They are really timeless in design!

[@MrProjectHacker]

Very helpful. My 1/2 hp Wards R-I motor on an 1923 Kellogg em-722 compressor hums and the rotor freezes with power, but turns freely when power withheld. Now I have a plan to troubleshoot it. Thanks!😎

[@madmanmapper]

Yeah, I hate that too, when some armchair engineer tells me I can't use an abrasive to clean a commutator, or electrical contacts. In the case of contacts, they insist you use a contact cleaning strip... which is literally 500 grit on a piece of sheet metal! Also, as someone who also appreciates old stuff, things like the example you gave, about the end housing being designed to be beautiful... I think that's really something that's been lost, hasn't it? To them, they figured that piece is being cast either which way, so making it pretty cost them almost nothing. Today, things like motors are always designed to look simple and utilitarian. As if beauty is an old fashioned concept.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Sadly; I think you're right that beauty is an old-fashioned and lost concept now. Everything has to be the cheapest. It's like pride in craftsmanship which made the industrial revolution happen is being lost now. These people who just blurt out "that is bad" when they see an unfamiliar product are being closed-minded. They are missing the point that it's up to the end-user to determine if any given product is fit for any particular purpose. I have my favorites such as the red scotch-brite and Wearever brake cleaner. Those both have remained unchanged for as long as I remember. The issue with cleaning abrasives is, there are so many and some of them are conductive. Makers sell products without telling you what's in them so it's a buyer-beware market. The Scotch-Brite pad I used isn't conductive and can't create shorts by jamming particles of conductive grit between the commutator segments. With the sliding friction and carbon-copper interface of the commutator, there is less worry about residue. With high power contact points, such a motor starter contactors, or the centrifugal switch contacts in a motor there is one extra concern. The contacts are metal alloy which develop an oxide layer. That layer helps keep them from welding together from the arc of making or breaking contact. If you end up with some coating which prevents the oxide layer from working, the contacts have all the aspects necessary to weld. Some abrasives melt in the heat of an arc, forming a glass-like layer which coats the contacts. This layer is essentially the final aspect of a welding process, acting like a flux and allowing the contacts to fuse together without the oxide layer being able to form. With small relay contacts and the like, it should never be a problem but for high power contacts, I always try to be SURE no abrasive residue remains. I haven't ever had my own repaired contacts weld, but I have salvaged stuck contactors that were welded. No idea the cause.

[@erlendse]

As for attention for details: it come at a cost. Many are not willing to pay it today. Also, if they take time to make a nice casing, they have probably done some effort to make what matters be as good as it can reasonably get with what they have. Cheap junk have probably always been cheap junk! Old quality items stay around, for the past & the future.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

LOL, if people are complaining about abrasives, they must really pop a cork at the concept of an armature lathe.

[@madmanmapper]

@@MrUbiquitousTech ikr?

[@stephenbrown8898]

Less metal is used with the skeletal design and also more air flow to benefit cooling the natural materials to prevent degradation. Rounded and beveled holes are stronger. So there was engineering involved as well as beauty.

[@jamesp8391]

Once this corona virus ends, I have a big 5hp one to go troubleshoot. It’s from 1925, so I hope it’s a century. They usually are when I get calls for something from that era. I just hope nobody screwed around with it. Fantastic motors!

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

They are fascinating motors! Hope the facility where it is allows you to take a video or two.

[@terrycannon570]

Excellent demonstration. No explanation needed for me as to why anyone would want to keep one of these antique motors. I have a Champion Blower Camel Back drill press that is older than dirt but in mint condition. It has an antique 1 horse Century R/I motor. I need to take it apart and clean it because when I meggared it tested bad. It is worth it to me to repair the old motor rather than put a newer Cap Start single phase motor on it. Again, excellent demonstration.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Excellent trouble shooting video David, thank you for that! And I agree, older machinery has a lot more than just function in it, but a lot of artistic value in them as well. This goes to motors, hand-wheels, lathes, pulleys, drill presses, etc, etc. This makes them not only collectable, IMO, but a pleasure to use as well.

[@SuperGlocker77]

Nice video as always. It's great that you strive to preserve history.

[@Geddy107]

This is a great video brother, I appreciate you making your knowledge available to the rest of us.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Thanks, glad it was helpful!

[@brycelindsay438]

Just got a 1905 GE motor and I’m a beginner with these things. Thanks for the vid. Huge help

[@moorescomfortsystemsheatin6068]

Yea I have a few videos out restoring old fridges but your on a whole Nother level. Great videos.

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Thanks! I really appreciate it. I'll be watching your videos as well. Thanks for the pointer to them!

[@jeremyvoshage2410]

Thank you! Your videos are always appreciated!

[@RG-li5zq]

I enjoyed your informative video. As a reminder, always use the non-flammable can of brake cleaner.

[@stephenbrown8898]

Awesome I love these motors. Your videos are great.

[@wernerfeil7900]

Läuft und klingt schön

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Thank you!

[@joe1569]

Explanation excellent

[@RickBaconsAdventures]

That sound never gets old!

[@tysondaniel2419]

pro trick: watch series on flixzone. Been using them for watching lots of of movies during the lockdown.

[@johnathanjedidiah7930]

@Tyson Daniel Definitely, have been using flixzone} for since november myself :)

[@aidenavi5976]

@Tyson Daniel Yea, I have been watching on Flixzone} for since december myself =)

[@RickBaconsAdventures]

Hey David, for some reason my comment is attracting fake spam accounts that are promoting some bootleg movie streaming site. Feel free to take it down if you need to. Thanks!

[@aspedersen1]

And all it needed was a good clean and a bit of lube....easy fix! :)

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Yep! This one didn't take much in the way of "hard work" to get going!

[@weberbuff]

Do you have any videos that describe how to replace the oiling pads on the ends of the motor

[@brianderkacz652]

Great video! I just inherited the same motor. What kind of oil do you use to lubricate the rod and bearings? There is two small ports on each end of the motor

[@jimbarrick455]

Thanks, enjoyed the video. I have a repulsion induction motor that is not quite that old: Craftsman 551.1939. It is not running. Could you fix it? Jim

[@wetdedstuocm]

Learning good things..Peace

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Thank you!

[@realvanman1]

It appears that the short circuiting necklace spring went in backwards from how it came out. I wonder if that was part of the problem? Or if it doesn’t matter? I was watching closely since I have one that has been apart for a long time, and the necklace spring was burned, so I don’t know which way it goes. ;)

[@scottposey3036]

I saw that as well. When the necklace was removed, the spring was on the inside. When installed it was on the outside. I have not idea if that matters since I have never worked on a motor with a necklace. Just wondering. Since the spring has eyelets at each end, should there be a small spring connecting the eyelets to hold the necklace spring together or does the strength of the necklace spring hold itself in place?

[@leolamorie-fitzgerald9216]

Thanks for this video man saved me

[@rodritz8384]

I have a old Century and a B-Line, after watching this maybe I'll try tearing them apart. My local Motor Service said boat anchors, cheaper to replace. I do have one question. Is that motor also a 220v, hook the two center wires together and 220v to the two outside?

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

That is correct. The two coils in parallel are for the lower voltage, while the two coils in series for for the higher voltage.

[@trevorseals6588]

My guess on the gummy stuff would be someone tried to lube it with WD-40. It’s good for keeping moisture and rust off of metal but it eventually dries out and turns into a hard grease. Learned this the hard way lubing my 22 as a kit and the bolt wouldn’t move the next time I tried to use it.

[@bamaslamma1003]

Amazing how quiet it is when it's sitting on a pad. Is this a 120/240v motor or just 120? What's the hp rating?

[@KevinJones-oz9pj]

It’s a dual-voltage. It most likely states 110/220vac, as those would have been standards at the time of manufacture. Quarter horse. (1/4hp), is what I believe he said.

[@TheMatsushitaMan]

What was that starting up at 6:59?

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

That was a 1931 Frigidaire belt-drive unit. It has a Delco repulsion start motor.

[@melvis2017]

Special tool for to clean the commutator

[@moorescomfortsystemsheatin6068]

Not trying to be nosy but what is your occupation? Just Wondering how you learn how to do all this

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

No problem. My dad and grandfather got me interested in things like this when I was pretty much too young to talk. I've worked as a field service engineer my whole life. My current job involves commissioning, integration, and troubleshooting of power generation equipment, its controls, and engines that drive it. All of this type technology fascinates me. I research things I don't know and take time to understand "how and why" instead of just "following a procedure" until it works. So I guess I learned through experience with work and hobbies; and through some schooling plus years of self research on different problems I've encountered.

[@gtb81.]

connecting the two middle wires it should have still started, because that's the 240v configuration, i have the same motor, and it will start in that configuration but with significantly less power

[@davida1hiwaaynet]

Cool! I'm sure it would have run, just less kick. Hang onto that motor as they are hard to come by. :)

[@erlendse]

Agree, not uncommon to see on transformers, two 110V windings. You pick 110V paralell, or 220V series, seems reasonable for the motor too.

[@gtb81.]

@@davida1hiwaaynet i payed a whopping $16 for it

[@Kitchfox]

Just needed fiddling with by someone who knew how to fiddle with it.